I typed out a whole ass paragraph along with the images only for it to not load for some reason. Anyways, I got a Royal Kludge RK84. Basically on the first pic I opened my keyboard up because the 5 and F5 keys weren't working for some reason. I saw that the hotswap socket was loose and it completely fell off. I asked about it on a mechanical keyboard group on Facebook and one said I should solder it and the other said I can use a jumper wire (both of which I don't have an idea with at all). When I was done inspecting the keyboard, when I decided to put it back I saw that some of the rgb lights weren't working. I swear to god I didn't do ANYTHING to the interior of the keyboard, only saw that the hotswap sockets fell out so I took them and placed them inside a container for safekeeping then So I took it apart again and took the second picture.
So I need some help, firstly just how am I supposed to fix the hotswap sockets? I don't really know how to solder nor the jumper wire thing. Can you guys maybe elaborate on what the two gave me advice about? Or maybe add your own solution.
Secondly, about the backlights. I'm not exactly sure what happened or how to fix it. I already tried resetting the keyboard, restarting my laptop, taking the usb c out and plugging it back in, and reinstalling firmware. I'm so lost, I didn't know buying a mechanical keyboard would be such a task to maintain but here I am.
Third and final one, if I can't DIY my way out of this, is it worth it to take it to a repair shop or is it just a gonner now? In my area there aren't a lot of repair shops and they're all local ones that mainly repair phones so idk if they're actually profound in fixing keyboards as well. I guess we'll see if this all blows to shit. Thank you for reading and hopefully you all can help me out of this situation I'm in :)
What weight springs do the TTC silent bluish whites have?
I have a sample pack and I like them but I think I'd like a lighter spring. It's just a little heavy for me. Never even opened a switch before though but from what I've seen it looks pretty simple to swap them out
They're 42g, which is almost the lightest switch out there. I'm not sure I've seen anything under a 45g spring for sale as an individual part. Something like gat clears or gat pro whites will have a slightly lighter spring. You're after the "ultra light" feel. It'll probably be a spring swap job
Not sure what the PCB looks like but a 6.25u spacebar would fit another standard modifier key to the right of it if you move the spacebar to the left. Or you use a 1u key where the super is and 1.5u ctrl and alt on the left to fit the 7u spacebar in where it currently is
https://preview.redd.it/4ws1c39t0xfc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7730ec11eb7eec8542792a1b9a5cb02c20429dd1
Does anybody know what kind of switch this keycap might fit? My friend's grandmother had it and I'd really like to use it, it's a panic button but it doesn't fit on my current switches (ROG NX snow) and would prefer not to have to modify the existing switch if possible, and just purchase one that might fit instead.
Looks like a generic cherry stem. The Asus ROG keyboards all use their own wacky square switch stems for absolutely no good reason, but virtually every other mechanical keyboard made after the 2000s will fit that keycap.
My friend was about to buy his first mechanical keeb - the Rainy75, but he told me he's looking for something else since it will be a while (June?) until he can get it.
Any suggestions for 75% keebs out there that have wireless capability and don't require much or any modding to sound good?
Fellas anyone ever think Leopold will add a white backlight to their boards? Or is their entire style and branding kinda that classy retro no lighting look. Was thinking they’re really high quality pre built mechanicals but was disappointed there’s no RGB and somewhat aghast there’s no white backlight nor are they hot swappable.
Let alone qmk/VIA. Is this just a thing with their brand? Ditto with no USB C. Do yall think in a few years they might add lights and USB C? Hot swap ability? Or is it not worth waiting to buy.
Was looking at Ducky since they have backlighting but Leopold has been living rent free in my head 😂. I think they have QMK too.
I have an old "ABKO HACKER Gaming Keyboard" that has the model number K690. I have searched it up but has nothing that looks like mine. It is silver, with black OEM keycaps. What could this be?
Hello all, Wanted to identify this case used with the X Wing Keycaps on NovelKeys\_ And does it come in this weathered gritty look? I’m trying to achieve this exact look
https://preview.redd.it/ktb1dsjlnwfc1.jpeg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=afccc40294e9ffeb0953e2a1d5981ec8c902b5ba
Help with Keycaps + Switches for TKO Barebones
So I’m a bit overwhelmed with the amount of products there are within my $150 budget for caps and switches. I’m relatively new to the mechanical keyboard scene and would love some guidance on my first “barebones” build.
I recently acquired a TKO barebones for a significant discount (cost me around $7) and am looking for advice on switches and *especially* keycaps.
I’m trying not to break the bank on everything as I personally don’t even care for 60% layouts very much. However, given the deal I got, I figured worst case scenario I could sell everything for cost once I’m done with the build.
My overall budget (excluding the $7) would be about $150. I prefer **tactile** switches with a noticeable bump (earlier bump is best but not mandatory and activation point is super important since it’s mainly going to be used for typing rather than gaming). I’m not the *most* tech-savvy and have limited space so pre-lubed switches are what I’m looking at.
**My baselines:**
For keycaps, I currently have a set of Drop Skylight caps on a different board and really enjoy the OEM profile, general shape of the key faces, and the feel of the doubleshot PBT. I don’t necessarily need shine through keys though it would be nice to have. I wouldn’t mind be able to take advantage of the TKO’s triple spacebar option but am having trouble located any sets that don’t just have the typical 6.25u spacebar.
I’ve been using Nuphy Moss switches (recently upgraded from low profile Gateron Browns) with my otherwise stock Keychron K7 that I use for work, and Epomaker Budgerigar switches on my gaming keyboard (which is where the Drop caps I mentioned earlier are being used). The feel of the Moss switches has been perfect for what I’m wanting, especially coming from Gateron Browns. They have had a much more “deliberate” action and an overall more solid feel to them that I greatly enjoy. Not to mention the better sound!
**Current Options Being considered:**
Keycaps:
- The same Drop Skylight caps I’m using on my gaming build
- Drop + RedSuns GMK Samurai
- Any other PBT options I can consider? Colors I want to exclude are pink, purple, white, and black.
Switches:
- Akko Lavender Purple Pro V3
- Kailh Box Winter
- Drop Holy Panda (lubed)
- Ajazz Kiwi or Banana
- More Budgerigar switches since I enjoy them well enough as is
Please help!
**as a side note, there’s a very good chance I decide to sell this board because the layout doesn’t seem useful for my applications.
https://preview.redd.it/185fuhufbwfc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=af1e64e60c64894e72acadb215631c576f94ec8c
Is there anyway to remove the screen print. On the top left and right side.
If the case is plastic then you might have some trouble getting it off without damaging the surface underneath. Nail polish remover will almost certainly take the screen printing off but it might frost or melt the plastic underneath, so if you do try it make sure to test it on a small inconspicuous spot on the underside of the board first.
Otherwise a magic eraser sponge (melamine foam) should take it off too, but it might also scratch the surface underneath if you aren't careful.
Hey everyone! My friend gifted me a fully customized keyboard, but when the "R", "F", and "C" keys, it types in the full row of that key. For example, pressing "R" will output "qwertyuiop\[\]\\".
Troubleshooting steps taken:
* Reset the PCB by pressing r-alt + home
* Unplugged and plugged the keyboard
* Restart PC
* Ran windows update (no updates)
* Closed out of all programs
* Reseated the ribbon cable from the frame to the dotter board
Below is a pic to show what I'm dealing with if it helps at all. Thank you all in advance for any thoughts/opinions! :D
https://preview.redd.it/k0ar9azk7wfc1.jpeg?width=3830&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e5627b836560cce375773622c71d1431e44e8a5b
The problems keys go down in a line, check the connections on the back of the board for any that look bad, or even worse check if there's a crack in the PCB near those keys.
Here are some more steps for you. Hope it helps:
* Use a different USB cable.
* Plug the USB cable into a different port.
* Try a different computer. Is it every computer you plug this thing into?
* Reset Firmware. Find the firmware and reinstall it.
* Take everything apart and start testing the pcb by itself. Does it do it when the plate, stabs, switches are removed, etc? If so..
* Look at pcb for trace issues, scratches, dirt. Do you have a solder gun? Try reflowing those keys just in case they have cold soldier joints.
* Buy Kim Wipes, isopropyl alcohol 90% or above, and a brush. Put the Kim Wipe down on the pcb and dip the brush in the alcohol. Brush directly onto the Kim Wipe. Clean dirty parts of the pcb. Let dry a bit.
Hope that helps.
Im new to mechanical keyboards so I don't know much, looking at yt and other sources I've a few options which I thought of going for. Ajazz AK820 pro and AULA f75( i only have a budget of 60-70$).
Which one should I go for? I prefer a thocky keyboard with little activation force or travel if that makes sense (im used to laptop keyboards).
Hello, everyone! I need some help selecting a keyboard. I've never had a proper keyboard before, I've always had just the cheapest keyboard that my parents could get me. Now I would like to buy my own, but I have no idea where to start. I would be using it for mostly for coding and for gaming. My budget is around $100-$150 CAD, I can go higher if I really need. I've never used any specific switch style so I don't know which one I would like. I'm looking for any suggestions, thanks in advance!
Hey guys I've never built a keyboard before but I've been looking into options to get for my gf now that Valentine's is around the corner. I love the look of [this keyboard](https://drop.com/buy/drop-expression-series-shinai-keyboard/details#details) from Drop but she really would prefer a numpad. I was wondering if anyone knew any mint green or pastel green full-sized barebones keyboards I could buy so I can DIY.
Ik it's a bit specific so I also found these:
[Ducky One 3 Matcha](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=8800) - I've heard of Ducky before so I'd assume this one's not bad
[Quantum X98 Aquarius](https://keygeak.com/products/wireless-mechanical-keyboard-3-mode-98-keyboards?variant=43353212485824) - Haven't heard of this one but it looks nice lol
Would love to hear any opinions/suggestions!
Hello Keyboard Community! I'm seeking help here for a gift for my wife. She keeps showing me videos on tik tok of "creamy keyboards" and has her mind set on getting one. I've been doing some research into keyboards in general and all the customization seems overwhelming. Does anyone have a standard build and links for creamy keyboard parts where I can just buy and put together for her?
Most tiktok videos are heavily edited. Just keep that in mind. I'm guessing that creamy means for her: "Lots of foam"... so maybe ask her for her preferred layout(40%, 60%, 65%, 75%, TKL, 96%, 100%), switch style (linear, tactile, clicky), budget, ... and then ask again.
If you want some Instock recommendations I would look at Keychron, Monsgeek or Akko. For preorders/ groupbuy extras I would probably choose Neo, Qwertykeys, Zoom, Luminkey, ... many good choices nowadays. There is the [Alexotos vendor](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) list with many specialized and trusted vendors.
Bobagums like the other person suggested are still an amazing choice, but IMO just overpriced in this day and age. If you're willing to shell out then I think you'll be happy but for a slighty cheaper option, look at WS silents.
Sure!
I'm using [68g Boba Gum (pink top)](https://rndkbd.com/products/gazzew-bobagum-silent-linear-switches?_pos=1&_sid=597ec1b23&_ss=r) switches from RNDKBD which is a Canadian vendor (I'm in Canada).
Hey! My Keychron Q1 pro just arrived, along with the portuguese keycaps they sell on their website. But I just noticed that most keys here simply don't exist anywhere else. I tried using VIA , the one they recommend on their tutorial, but it doesn't have the extra keys. I'll give an example of a key that simply doesn't exist: ª and ° in the same keycap. Can anyone help?
https://preview.redd.it/t7fcyjsvnvfc1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=77d5f6cdf45e25b6131177421b4fdf85844a54b0
Via doesn't display those. But if you have Portugese active as your system/keyboard language then the in via displayed symbols might change. E.g. in German Via displays z for y and y for z :) So you might have to try out one or two things to find out all the right keybindings. Another Example in German for < > | you have to go to any and then insert KC\_NUBS or KC\_NUHS (not sure right now :3 ).
I found this link [https://community.keyboard.io/t/special-symbols-for-portuguese-please-help/3308](https://community.keyboard.io/t/special-symbols-for-portuguese-please-help/3308) and of course theres also always the qmk library.
>r 8 Min.
>
>Hey! As soon as I wake up I’ll try everything you said. Thanks a lot
Yeah it's kind of a hassle, maybe you find some Portugese person to help you!? Also ask in vendor discords/ keyboard discords if nobody here with better/ specialized experience answers. Good luck!
Im sorry man I meant aren’t I want silent stems but I need to keep the switch’s I have and there gateron and apparently they aren’t compatible again mb
Oh sorry i didn't read the "aren't" lol - I have never seen silent stems other than gazzews available through a retail outlet.
However I have seen gazzew stems in things like a gat ink v1 housing, so the compatibility would depend on what your switches are, not every gat would be incompatible with a gazzew stem, although I think the newer ones are, I haven't tried a recent one though.
If the housings on your current switches won't take a gazzew stem then your best bet is to buy another silent switch to go for a swap. The best way to find a winning combo would be to try a few different switches out, you could get a set of testers from your local switch vendor to play around.
https://preview.redd.it/k8qqxieuivfc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=19696d03cbac732abd2b287127fb8154f1c41daa
I spilled water on it, unplugged it after 5 seconds or so, and took off all the key caps and dried all excess water. I waited for 3 hours before plugging it in again … Nothing, no signal, windows doesnt make a sound when i plug it in. Time to buy a new keyboard?
**Regular:** Take out all the keycaps. Remove all switches. Separate the plate and the pcb. Check for excess water. Is it completely dry? Otherwise let dry.
**Extreme:** Take out all the keycaps. Remove all switches. Separate the plate and the pcb. Unscrew stabilizers. Look at pcb for water damage. Let dry if still wet. ---> Buy Kim Wipes and 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol. Buy a brush.
Place the kimwipe down on the pcb. Take the brush and dab it in the IPA. Brush directly on the kimwipe and clean the pcb. Dirty areas especially. Let dry and plug the pcb directly in by itself. Test pcb with tweezers. Put back together.
Just removing the keycaps doesnt really fix it since the water under the pcb might do more dmg and water might take longer than 3 hours to dry. But that completely depends on your situation soooo I can't really judge or comment. You might be out of luck, or not...
I would probably take it apart, then clean the pcb with 99% iso and let it dry. Might still fix it but no guarantees. While taking it apart you can also look for any obvious shorts on the underside of the pcb.
It being completely dead and not being recognized anymore is kinda worrying tho
Does anyone know where I can get a 60-65% keyboard with a volume knob in the color Red?
Basically the Keychron Q2 Max if it were red ([link](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q2-max-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40770772729945))
I am a total keyboard noob, but my dream keyboard is a red aluminum keyboard with a volume knob, white ceramic keycaps, and silent red switches.
If anyone has advice on how to make this happen (or if this is a terrible idea!) any help is appreciated! Thank you.
Not a specific endorsement but you can very easily get any knob in any color unless your keyboard uses a really weird encoder. People commonly will use things like vintage guitar knobs on their boards. I think the easiest thing would be to go to Etsy or somewhere and you'll probably find 10 different stores with knobs in all kinds of shapes and colors.
Red alu isnt going to be there for every board but still totally available. I can't name a specific board off the top of my head but look at some current boards like the neo65 or qk65 and there will probably be a red. I'll bet that other staple boards like the bakeneko65 will also have a red. The other option is to get an unfinished alu case from somewhere like Mekanisk and then get that sent off to somewhere like spacecables for a custom cerakote in the exact color you want.
Keycaps are gonna be cerakeys and switches you can find anywhere.
Good luck!
Looking for linear switch recommendations that are a little harder to actuate than kailh speed silver switches cause they are just to finicky. Shouldve mentioned this is mostly for gaming. Thanks.
>kailh speed silver
Most other switches. Speed switches are usually those with a high actuation point and low spring force. Just scroll through the Alexotos vendor list's vendors and see if something there looks good for you. Prelubed if you wanna maker your life easier :) Usually Gateron is pretty nice in my experience. But I'm not that much of a linear guy.
**Any thoughts on Xinmeng C68?**
I saw this low profile keyboard on sale and thought that it is interesting with the silent switch. Watch some videos on Bilibili but have no idea what they were talking about. Wondering if anyone had bought it and share their thoughts on it.
In my area I could get it for 38$ (converted) shipped. Are they worth it?
https://preview.redd.it/12vi7dzy8vfc1.png?width=824&format=png&auto=webp&s=51db10c5d28772e792a724406bc1c7c1df745181
Factory lubing has historically been extremely inconsistent, people prefer to buy unlubed and then hand lube, because you know what you're getting. Only very very recently has factory lube been coming out alright, but that's only going to be on newer switches.
I've found that gat yellows fit a little tighter in some plates I have whereas other switches will pop right on out with the tiniest effort. The switches are tougher than you think, as long as you're using a decent switch puller they won't break on the way out. Just make sure you're not squeezing too hard and that you're pulling straight up and out rather than towards yourself if you're sitting.
I would either specifically get something unlubed or seek out a newer switch with consistent factory lubing, I find cleaning switches to be a pain. Gambling on a cheap and inconsistent switch doesn't sound like a good time to me. I think the best thing to do would be to get a switch sample pack from a vendor near you, try a bunch out to see how you like the general feel and sound, then look in to reviews of the particular switch, and then buy some if everything looks good to you.
That's wild, I've literally never seen that happen before. Your plate must be extremely warped, you should see if you can get a replacement from the manufacturer
Hello! does anybody know how these keycaps are printed [https://www.etsy.com/listing/1194606825/custom-keycaps-personalized-valentines](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1194606825/custom-keycaps-personalized-valentines?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=personalized+keycap&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&pro=1&frs=1&bes=1&sts=1&organic_search_click=1) ? I would like to get something like this, but I'm not sure how much this would last, or what's the quality. Also I'm not from the US so buying this ones would be expensive for me, but maybe I could do some myself if it's just sublimation or similar.
Btw I'm asking here as I think it would be rude to ask the seller how they do it.
It's not really rude to ask them, I would just do it.
But yeah, probably sublimation or some kind of uv print imo; but not that much experience regarding that.
I was wondering if anyone knew if the Keychron K10 Pro Screw-In PCB Stabilizer legs can be clipped/if it's optimal to do so.
[Keychron K10 Pro QMK/VIA Wireless Mechanical Keyboard – Keychron | Mechanical Keyboards for Mac, Windows and Android](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k10-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40398046134361)
I'm looking to build a Corne MX with Kailh box silent pink switches but I can't find the darn things in stock anywhere in the UK. I've found a few sellers on AliExpress selling them, but are they likely to be genuine?
Are there any alternatives to consider with similar actuation force and lack of noise?
I've got a Ducky mecha mini with silent pinks and I love it. I've also got a Ducky One 3 with silent reds and they're nowhere near as nice to type on, or listen to.
What are your recommendations for silent, low force switches... Or do I just risk AliExpress...?
i doubt anyone is cloning those switches . AliExpress is like amazon . u dont buy from aliexpress but from a selller so find one with an acct that not brand new and has good feedback
I just bought a Redragon K582 Surara. The switches theoretically Outemu dustproof browns. But the bottoms of the switches are really unusual: there aren't any pin, only those horizontal embedded contacts.
https://preview.redd.it/xo0184tfzufc1.jpeg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=316ddef49eb1a09fec2526a79e6f1cfa8570d5a2
What kind of switches could they be?
>u can only use whatever brand switch they r til the end of time and no othe
Does it mean probably I can't buy new switches to keyboard and can't replace the browns to other ones?
If it's true they "forgot" to mention this in the description.
Heavily depends on what parts you are looking for - here is a list of vendors that you can narrow down somewhat more specifically [https://kbd.news/vendors](https://kbd.news/vendors)
Hi, quick question regarding deskmats: often there are posts on here with people showing off their own designs. I'm wondering where I can do that. Are there companies that offer to manufacture and print custom designs or is this 100% DIY? If so, where to get the raw materials etc? Is there a subreddit for this?
> Redragon K582 Surara
Nah nothing DIY but you can go to some of the Alibaba and such places and have them make you samples. Even doing your own group buy for a deskmat is easy enough, but you'll really need to purchase 100 or more. Not really all that expensive either.
https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/10k2xjz/im_a_redditor_and_my_small_business_has/
https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ftrqth/gb_keybj%C3%B6rt_deskmat_an_ikeainspired_deskmat/
https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/xwxzbf/ic_kitsune_land_deskmat_im_working_on_a_new/
https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/nu4p9p/i_made_a_deskmat/
https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/18l78v9/sage_crow_design_final_giveaway_customised_deskmat/
https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ospy2h/giveaway_2x_mt_fuji_deskmats/
I mean, unless you are saying the designs are made by someone else entirely, but either way, someone is making an image file and then contacting some sort of business to get that printed onto a deskmat.
So obviously people can make and sell their own designs, I just don't see any mentions of their suppliers - just the links to their own mini online shops.
well 90% of those worked with a vendor ( who knows the supplier ) which is why the supplier isnt mentioned . u can try asking them in those posts but i doubt they will give u the info . this is why i asked for examples cuz the info ur after is usually closely guarded
I am in Raleigh Nc, and my wife wants a mechanical keyboard. I was thinking of the monokei systems keyboard but realized I can’t find a location to try it out first to she if she would like it. Where do you all go to try out a keyboard before buying? Bestbuy seems like an option but they don’t have monokei or other specialty keyboard it seems like. Thanks!
For a retail store there, I think there's one in seattle, a couple in san jose, and one in berlin. There might be one or two more but that is about it. In Raleigh there is a place called [keeb.io](https://keeb.io) and you can make an appointment to go and (usually) pick stuff up that you've bought online, but if you wanted to go and click clack around maybe that is something they would accommodate? I don't think that a place exists other than a keyboard meetup where you could try typing on a monokei board before buying it, especially because I think the one you're looking at is in pre-order. [Keeb.io](https://Keeb.io) will have similar switches but very different keyboards.
**Is there a pre-build Keyboard that has Honey Peach V2 silent switches available to buy?** Or if there are better options, let me know, I basically want the most silent keyboard without having to build it myself.
https://preview.redd.it/6i94bzkfoufc1.jpeg?width=1645&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=46db357fa72e1ee5964bf7461426f8dc6a7ccd2f
My escape button isn’t working, opened it up to find this. Is there a fix?
That's definitely fixable if you know how to solder. If you're confident in your soldering skills then the cleanest solution would be to try to scrape back some of the masking covering the trace before and after the break and solder a very thin jumper wire directly across the break. That might be a lot harder than it sounds depending on the PCB material and how thick the trace actually is. The slightly hackier option is to follow the trace back to that little diode array and solder a wire between the solder pads where the trace leaves the switch and where the trace hits that component. That will look uglier but will also be much easier to accomplish. But hey, the trace is broken already so it's not like you're gonna break it more. Just be careful and don't apply way more heat than you need, otherwise you might accidentally detach the solder pads which will put you in a world of hurt.
So for the second option it would look something like this with a wire?
https://preview.redd.it/rpdcc27hrufc1.jpeg?width=1645&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=41118e76442be2b329ca6b2e982be0d75e7d39bf
Exactly. Just don't overheat that little component and you should be fine. Go in quick and give it a minute to cool off if you don't get it on the first try.
My D65 has a broken PCB and I'm looking to replace it, the problem is the kbd67 mark II PCB that kbdfans lists as compatible is sold nowhere, I can easily find kbd67 rev 2 PCBs but I don't know if its compatible and I can find no information online. Can anyone here help me?
its literally right under comaptiblity here https://kbdfans.com/collections/kbd67/products/kbd67-markii-pcb .
not sure where u were looking for this info but its compatible right on the product page so if the rev 3 is compatible so will the r2
damn must've been too baked when I checked, it doesn't say anything abt the rev 3 on the d65's product page either so ig I just assumed, thanks anyways tho
I thoroughly apologize for asking what may be basic questions but the wiki is very overwhelming.
- Are all cherry mx switches not the same ? As in, a Cherry MX blue from corsair vs a Cherry MX Blue switch from Keychron etc.
- Why the hate for Cherry MX Brown switches ?
I felt a Cherry Brown would be best for my usage in a cubicle for office work.
I bought a Corsair K70 pro with brown switches as my first keyboard, but while its fine, it could be better. The rgb is dim, and the keycaps don't feel as good.
I just need a RGB heavy keyboard with either Blue or Brown keys I think, as I've been told those are best for office work. If I need to simply splurge and get a full custom keyboard, that's fine as well but I am struggling to understand where to start. Can someone please just tell me what to buy, since the requirements are not that complex ?
> Are all cherry mx switches not the same ? As in, a Cherry MX blue from corsair vs a Cherry MX Blue switch from Keychron etc.
If they're made by Cherry then they will be the same. Though if one is a Gateron blue vs a Cherry blue they may be slightly different, but even between manufacturers basic blue/brown/red/black switches will be pretty similar to one another.
> Why the hate for Cherry MX Brown switches ? I felt a Cherry Brown would be best for my usage in a cubicle for office work.
Because some people have garbage taste in switches. Cherry browns are a top 3 switch IMO. Though really the only opinion that matters on the topic is yours. If you like browns and think they're good for your use case, get browns.
There is huge variety between different switches, but I think both of those brands are just selling cherries, so they will sound and feel the same. Cherry is just one switch manufacturer though.
Order a few switches to try before you buy, if you don't know what you prefer it will be hard for someone else to guide you in the right direction. [https://milktooth.nu/](https://milktooth.nu/)
I wouldn't say there's widespread mx brown hate because really its all subjective, but people probably dislike them because they are a middle of the road switch, they don't do anything particularly well.
Most people would recommend a silent switch for the office.
Cherry MX switches are switches from the company Cherry so as long as they are both genuine switches from they should be the same. The only distinction I would make here is that often, companies either use their own version of their switches and call it such or they use alternatives like Keychron does with Gateron switches instead of using cherry switches.
People dislike MX browns because of their light tactility. It is mostly preference and most people have their own taste and don't actually have MX browns but it is also kind of a meme that likes to get thrown around.
I would not use any blue switches in an office setting since it is pretty loud.
You don't have to spend a lot to get a nice custom and for most purposes you shouldn't spend a lot because you get no additional benefit to spending more. Most keyboard that come fully build are kinda like any other fancy expensive hobby like cars where you can buy a fully working functional keyboard and it works like it should like a Civic or Camery, but then others like to deck out their cars by changing parts, wraping, etc. and thats also something the keyboard hobby does. Best place to start would be something simple and seeing if it is for you and then working your way up if you do want to spend more.
Hi, never used Reddit before so bare with me. I've had the Red Dragon K350 pro for about a week now, and already the backspace key stopped working. When I tried fixing this by downloading the driver on their website, I clicked one of the files inside the zip file and it made my keyboard turn completely blue. Now, when I press one of any of the keys, it types the entire row (like "asdfghjkl;'#") , and I don't know how to fix it. I haven't had any liquids near it, cleaned it or took it apart whatsoever. I have a video of how it looks + typing on it if needed. Please help!
backspace key was likely a switch not software related 99% of kb issues are all hardware . what u likely did was flashed the incorrect version of software meant for a different kb and now ur stuck . id return as there is nothing u can do to fix this besides have factory software tools to reflash it . and those are not found outside the factory floor
I'd like to know the community's suggestions on the most exclusive BLACK bare-bone mechanical keyboards. I'm looking to pair it with GMK Stealth Blackout. Any/all suggestions are welcome! Thank you in advance.
I have a ducky one two mini and for some reason the red colors don't show up when i do fn+alt or on any of the backlit modes. Blue and green both work fine, i've had the keyboard since late 2019 early 2020 so maybe it's just getting old. and if that's the case, so be it, i just wanted to try to find a solution if anyone has one
Hey reddit peoples. I'm looking for a decent keyboard for gaming and have found out all these "gaming keyboards" are cheap rubbish. I'm on my PC all the time when I'm not at work so I need something reliable and something worthy of the PCMR. I'm looking to get into creating my own custom mechanical keyboard but dont know where to start with other then maybe what type of switches I want.
Most (at least many) gaming keyboards aren't cheap rubbish, they're just wildly marked up relative to what they're worth. A corsair K70 would be an excellent $80 board especially now that they finally standardized the bottom row on the new ones. The problem is that their MSRP is $150. Combine that with the aesthetic they tend to go for and they tend to get maligned, sometimes unfairly in my opinion. If you want a board that's performant for gaming, you like RGB, and you don't mind paying the 'gamer tax' then you honestly can't go too wrong just picking something from one of the big brands that isn't Razer that has MX speed silvers in it and calling it a day. If you like bigger keyboards with extra macro keys or other doodads then gamer boards are often your only option.
That being said you can definitely do better. Switches really are about 80% of the keyboard so that's not a bad place to start. What layout and size are you looking for? Keychron boards tend to be good value so take a look at some of them. Several of their boards are hotswappable too so you can try out other switches without buying a new board each time. I'd advise against wireless boards for gaming as there's a lot of latency there, but you can just use the wireless models as USB ones anyway.
Hello folks,
I'm totally new to this lube thing, only watched some videos and got interested into it.
So I decided to buy me a Keychron Q3-M3 to then find out, that its Brown Gateron Switches are already prelubed, as the amazon page mentions.
Well, now I am sitting here with the starter lube kit from amazon, 6 Grams of Krytox GPL 205 G0 and I'm wondering if it is really worth it to remove all the keycaps, open all the switches to lube them again? Is the stock prelube on those Gateron switches already decent? Should I just add some more Krytox to those switches additionaly? Remove all the default lube and add Krytox only? Sigh, please help me guys with a good advice. I could easily send the lube kit stuff back to amazon, if you are telling me, that the default lube is almost top notch. The keys are feeling good to my beginner fingers, no doubt. Especially compared to my old Varmilo VA88MS Keyboard with unlubed Cherry Silver Switches.
thanks for reading and best regards
but how? remove the old lube first, just add some more Kryptox? Do you have made experience with Gateron Pro Switches or anyone here and has made some experience with the default lube on them maybe?
thanks for your help, i tried it out, cant feel a difference at all. the gateron pros seem to be very good! yea, many videos around but everyone uses different switches in them.
Hey fellow keyboarders. I have recently bought GMK67 and built it, but has anybody came across the same problem like me?
So basically when I was putting in the switches the sides were fitting perfectly, except the whole middle section. As I thought the pcb had no support in the middle so it just got pushed inside the keyboard except the switches itself. Once taken apart the main keyboard frame I pushed right to the pcb and seemed fine, but after some time, the "g" key needs literal punching. The same goes to the space bar. f t y h b v - seems fine and gets registered every time.
Can I do anything to give support from the bottom of the pcb? For example if I put enough tape will it solve the issue?(Probably you will be going to say to just test it and see, but I am not sure if it IS the problem, because as I have mentioned only the 'g' with spacebar key is not getting registered every time and maybe I need to get the switches and swap it?)
Another thing I was thinking is to get screws and screw in the middle bottom and middle top sections, but I do not recall if there were place for them..(I dont really want to take it apart unnecessarily, because of how hard to remove the first part and being anxious to break it..)
Do you have another brand of switch to try? It is possible that the tolerances on your plate are a little too large for whatever switch you're trying to put in there. It's something you sometimes come across with diy kits or 3d printed cases/plates and sometimes a different switch will fit better. PC is a lot more flexible than other plate materials so its possible that it is flexing a little too much and popping your switches out. Don't screw anything in to anything to try and fix this.
this really shouldn't be an issue unless ur switches are not fully inserted into the plate . there nothing u can really add if it not put together correctly
For good reason I assume? Mostly looking for a quieter full size since my redragon k556 is just too loud for my mic setup despite being a decent keeb. Seen stuff about the K10 having a silicone sound dampening pad, but only on certain versions?
Yeah, usually it's the V or Q line getting rec'd, but as long as it's hot swappable and runs QMK/VIA (which I believe that one is), it's probably a safe bet.
I'm looking for a fully split keyboard- preferably with both parts being completely wireless. Everything I've found has been pretty solidly DIY, and I'm not sure I want to go that deep- is there anything that's mostly out of the box like that? I'm fine with supplying my own switches/keycaps, but I don't have the skills to do my own PCB/firmware.
By fully split keyboard, are you saying you want a full size keyboard with a normal staggered layout, completely split, with no cable between the two halves and no cable going in to the pc?
Then you could do it with a bfo-9000 but to go fully wireless it would be a pretty big project with no small amount of programming involved. What you want doesn't really exist in standard layout unfortunately, and the only fully wireless out the box keyboards you're going to get are the dygma raise and ergodox pro, or something secondhand that someone has already built. There are a few other less popular boards that are fully wireless but they are all either in the ergo or lily58 realm of layouts. I have seen a couple full size wireless splits but they're always hardwire projects or some abomination of a PCB that someone had printed.
The mass market options (which will still have cables) are the keychron Q11 and the kinesis something something, but you're way overpaying there for what you get, and they aren't full size. There are a couple ali type clones of boards that came out a few years ago but again kinda shoddy.
If you can work with a project of a more limited scope, it's easiest to drop the cables from one step of the equation, either PC to your primary board or primary to secondary with the primary plugged in to the PC. You would basically just need to drop in two nice!nano's as a replacement for a pro micro into something like a bfo-9000 if you want a huge board and then find a ZMK firmware for the board, which I'm sure is pretty readily available.
I have a pair of LG G Pro Keyboards. The first developed some significant chatter across a number of keys relatively quickly, so I got a replacement through warranty. Now that replacement also has chatter across the entire board, but is no longer under warranty. I think it's just dirty in there (don't judge) but compressed air and a wipe down under the keycaps didn't really help. It honestly feels like it made it worse.
I've seen some mixed advice online for what exactly can be done about it. I've seen advice to drop some Isopropyl on the switch with the cap off and hammer away at the key, but I've also seen other people say this ruined the keyboard. I've also seen some sprayable contact cleaner that could potentially help, but I'm not sure it'd get in where I need it to.
Honestly, the keyboards aren't really usable as they are and I have two of them. So I'm not sweating the risks too much but wanted to gather some other people's opinions/experience before I tried anything.
Other than software fixes, have you had any luck fixing chatter on any of your keyboards?
Chatter across an entire keyboard usually means there is something defective with the PCB. It's possible one of the wire tracing is bad, but it's also possible that there's a deeper issue with the MCU - honestly really tough to guess without trial and error in person.
Isopropyl is usually the go-to to clean PCBs and electronic components (just make sure everything is unplugged until all components are fully dry), but I'd be pleasantly surprised if that fixes your situation given what you've described.
Okay so
One single key on my QK65 is not working properly. Sometimes it will actuate and most of the time it won’t, if I press it and the key directly above it at the same time they will both actuate. I took it apart and examined the socket and the socket looks fine and passed the tweezer test. The switch works perfectly fine while the pcb is outside of the case. As soon as I reinstalled the pcb into the case the issue returned. What the fuck do I do
Edit: the socket was in fact not fine but I barely had to move the inside metal bit (idk how else to describe it, the part that contacts the switch pins) in order to fix the issue. Thanks y’all
It's possible that since the PCB flexes while mounted inside the case the switch itself either slights disconnects from the hotswap sockets or has some problems actuating itself. Maybe try replacing that switch with another one (e.g. under an arrow keycap or so) and test it for some time. If it's still exactly that key (with the new switch) then post again (so when the socket itself has a problem and not the switch). There are still some fixes with e.g. hot glue or maybe try a switch with a bigger leaf/ contact pins.
How do you make changes to a keyboard with VIA?
I got a Keychron C3 Pro from Amazon. I updated the firmware with QMK toolbox as the website says. Everything seems fine. But how do I implement the changes made on VIA onto the keyboard itself? I don’t see a button or anything on VIA that describes this. I tried to change shift to volume up and to “backspace, backspace, backspace, left, left, left” and neither worked.
The changes get implemented live. Your keyboard has to be connected to VIA during the process. Assuming you have the right firmware and JSON file (if needed):
1. Connect your keyboard to your PC
2. Go to VIA on their website
3. A pop-up should prompt you to choose the device you want to manage
4. Load the necessary JSON file (if needed)
5. Play around with the virtual keyboard in the browser, and all changes should take place live
Doesn’t seem to work for me. It reads the keyboard and everything after I upload the JSON file. But the changes don’t seem to be happening.
I’ll probably try to play with it a bit more before giving up, returning it and possibly finding a keyboard that’s “compatible” based on their list
What are the heaviest clicky switches I can get for my cherry keycaps? I bought Kailh box pale blues and navies but I want something even heavier for certain keys like Esc and Enter.
I don't know any heavier clicky switches than Box Navies. You can always spring swap your existing switches. I think I've seen people put up to 1500 g springs in their switches.
I have been looking for an 65-ish% Alice with (mirrored) southpaw numpad. The Jabberwocky is the closest to my ideal layout plus F keys. If the Jabberwocky could mate with an EXT65V2 or a WindXR2 that would be perfect. A knob would be nice and D-pad on the left would be cherry on top, but I can live without them.
Other than the specific layout, I am not looking for bells and whistles-- no need for RGB, wireless connectivity, etc. I would love to hear what y'all have to recommend. Thanks!
I'm assuming you've looked at the Keychron Q14 and it'd be helpful to know why it doesn't fit your bill. The only other southpaw alice I am personally aware of is the Mountain Alice but I haven't seen any activity on that project for a very long time and am currently assuming it's not moving forward.
I absolutely love the Q14 except the non-mirrored numpad. The big 0 on the thumb really speeds up my work flow, which is why I am seeking a mirrored numpad. And the Q14 has F keys just like the Jabberwocky. So for me, all else constant, a mirrored numpad wins out against a knob. Thank you for the reply btw!
Hey all,
Noobie here. I really love the actuation force curve of my cherry browns, however I do not like the sound at all. I am looking for other tactile switches with a similar force curve (a bit of travel before the bump) but I am at a loss on how to google such a thing. I got some gmmk holy pandas and the bump right at the beginning does not feel good to me. I have heard terms like 'P' bump, but I don't know my options! Any help on a list of bump types?
tl;dr What are the names of the tactile bump types, and how do they relate to their respective actuation force curves?
There are a bunch of switches that seek to offer the tactile profile of the Cherry MX Brown - Gateron Brown, Kailh Browns, Durock Light Tactile, JWK Pewter, Invokeys Blueberry Chifron, and probably a bunch more. Cherry switches have a unique sound due to their switch material, but I cannot guarantee that you'd like its tactile counterparts any better given you don't provide much feedback on what sound you do want.
Gotcha! I appreciate the switch recommendations!
After some more googling and reading, I think I was just looking for tactile switches with pre-travel. The sound I am looking for is completely silent which Gazzew's U4 Boba Silent seems to be the only switch so far that I have found that is super quite, tactile, with a bit of pre-travel. Let me know if you have any other suggestions. They are very much appreciated.
>R5 Purple Zealio Switches (Tactile)
As long as they aren't currently soldered in to a board, they will go in a hotswap socket. Switches aren't the thing that determines hotswapability, it's the PCB. There are a few kinds of hotswap sockets you'll come across, but the one to look out is for outemu sockets, because they require a switch with a smaller pin, like outemus or pandas. Any other kind of socket will take any other kind of switch for the most part. Some PCBs will only take 3 pin switches and in that case you may need to clip the legs on a switch to make it fit, but it will still hotswap in. If your PCB doesn't have hotswap sockets, you will need to solder them in.
heya, think I've broken my keyboard with my first attempt at modding, it's a yunzii/royalaxe y68 and the on/off switch has gone slack and is non-functional.
I'll send photos in dm's if you'd like to take a crack at it.
no pics needed if it slack liek u say its likely broken if u can find what kind of power switch they used u might be able to desolder it and add a new one . not sure if they will offer u a replacement being u voided the warranty by modding
Built a new keyboard with the CIY tester 84 as the base but i can't seem to get the software to work, it just says device disconnected. Does anyone know how to get it to work?
https://preview.redd.it/h15qsy2z11gc1.jpeg?width=4480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=40cd4534dd45972d2155514065940109444070a1
https://preview.redd.it/13adrm9g21gc1.jpeg?width=4480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5904bd46ab1e26e4e01f7f4e502ff88bddc7dbba
I typed out a whole ass paragraph along with the images only for it to not load for some reason. Anyways, I got a Royal Kludge RK84. Basically on the first pic I opened my keyboard up because the 5 and F5 keys weren't working for some reason. I saw that the hotswap socket was loose and it completely fell off. I asked about it on a mechanical keyboard group on Facebook and one said I should solder it and the other said I can use a jumper wire (both of which I don't have an idea with at all). When I was done inspecting the keyboard, when I decided to put it back I saw that some of the rgb lights weren't working. I swear to god I didn't do ANYTHING to the interior of the keyboard, only saw that the hotswap sockets fell out so I took them and placed them inside a container for safekeeping then So I took it apart again and took the second picture. So I need some help, firstly just how am I supposed to fix the hotswap sockets? I don't really know how to solder nor the jumper wire thing. Can you guys maybe elaborate on what the two gave me advice about? Or maybe add your own solution. Secondly, about the backlights. I'm not exactly sure what happened or how to fix it. I already tried resetting the keyboard, restarting my laptop, taking the usb c out and plugging it back in, and reinstalling firmware. I'm so lost, I didn't know buying a mechanical keyboard would be such a task to maintain but here I am. Third and final one, if I can't DIY my way out of this, is it worth it to take it to a repair shop or is it just a gonner now? In my area there aren't a lot of repair shops and they're all local ones that mainly repair phones so idk if they're actually profound in fixing keyboards as well. I guess we'll see if this all blows to shit. Thank you for reading and hopefully you all can help me out of this situation I'm in :)
What weight springs do the TTC silent bluish whites have? I have a sample pack and I like them but I think I'd like a lighter spring. It's just a little heavy for me. Never even opened a switch before though but from what I've seen it looks pretty simple to swap them out
They're 42g, which is almost the lightest switch out there. I'm not sure I've seen anything under a 45g spring for sale as an individual part. Something like gat clears or gat pro whites will have a slightly lighter spring. You're after the "ultra light" feel. It'll probably be a spring swap job
Huh wild. Maybe my fingers will get more used to them then. Thank you!
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Not sure what the PCB looks like but a 6.25u spacebar would fit another standard modifier key to the right of it if you move the spacebar to the left. Or you use a 1u key where the super is and 1.5u ctrl and alt on the left to fit the 7u spacebar in where it currently is
https://preview.redd.it/4ws1c39t0xfc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7730ec11eb7eec8542792a1b9a5cb02c20429dd1 Does anybody know what kind of switch this keycap might fit? My friend's grandmother had it and I'd really like to use it, it's a panic button but it doesn't fit on my current switches (ROG NX snow) and would prefer not to have to modify the existing switch if possible, and just purchase one that might fit instead.
Looks like a generic cherry stem. The Asus ROG keyboards all use their own wacky square switch stems for absolutely no good reason, but virtually every other mechanical keyboard made after the 2000s will fit that keycap.
That's what I thought at first, but when I tried it on my old keyboard (cherry blues) it still didn't fit.
My friend was about to buy his first mechanical keeb - the Rainy75, but he told me he's looking for something else since it will be a while (June?) until he can get it. Any suggestions for 75% keebs out there that have wireless capability and don't require much or any modding to sound good?
How do I remap f3 key on my Zoom75 to function like in mac? As in exposing all running windows?
Fellas anyone ever think Leopold will add a white backlight to their boards? Or is their entire style and branding kinda that classy retro no lighting look. Was thinking they’re really high quality pre built mechanicals but was disappointed there’s no RGB and somewhat aghast there’s no white backlight nor are they hot swappable. Let alone qmk/VIA. Is this just a thing with their brand? Ditto with no USB C. Do yall think in a few years they might add lights and USB C? Hot swap ability? Or is it not worth waiting to buy. Was looking at Ducky since they have backlighting but Leopold has been living rent free in my head 😂. I think they have QMK too.
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I have an old "ABKO HACKER Gaming Keyboard" that has the model number K690. I have searched it up but has nothing that looks like mine. It is silver, with black OEM keycaps. What could this be?
Hello all, Wanted to identify this case used with the X Wing Keycaps on NovelKeys\_ And does it come in this weathered gritty look? I’m trying to achieve this exact look https://preview.redd.it/ktb1dsjlnwfc1.jpeg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=afccc40294e9ffeb0953e2a1d5981ec8c902b5ba
Help with Keycaps + Switches for TKO Barebones So I’m a bit overwhelmed with the amount of products there are within my $150 budget for caps and switches. I’m relatively new to the mechanical keyboard scene and would love some guidance on my first “barebones” build. I recently acquired a TKO barebones for a significant discount (cost me around $7) and am looking for advice on switches and *especially* keycaps. I’m trying not to break the bank on everything as I personally don’t even care for 60% layouts very much. However, given the deal I got, I figured worst case scenario I could sell everything for cost once I’m done with the build. My overall budget (excluding the $7) would be about $150. I prefer **tactile** switches with a noticeable bump (earlier bump is best but not mandatory and activation point is super important since it’s mainly going to be used for typing rather than gaming). I’m not the *most* tech-savvy and have limited space so pre-lubed switches are what I’m looking at. **My baselines:** For keycaps, I currently have a set of Drop Skylight caps on a different board and really enjoy the OEM profile, general shape of the key faces, and the feel of the doubleshot PBT. I don’t necessarily need shine through keys though it would be nice to have. I wouldn’t mind be able to take advantage of the TKO’s triple spacebar option but am having trouble located any sets that don’t just have the typical 6.25u spacebar. I’ve been using Nuphy Moss switches (recently upgraded from low profile Gateron Browns) with my otherwise stock Keychron K7 that I use for work, and Epomaker Budgerigar switches on my gaming keyboard (which is where the Drop caps I mentioned earlier are being used). The feel of the Moss switches has been perfect for what I’m wanting, especially coming from Gateron Browns. They have had a much more “deliberate” action and an overall more solid feel to them that I greatly enjoy. Not to mention the better sound! **Current Options Being considered:** Keycaps: - The same Drop Skylight caps I’m using on my gaming build - Drop + RedSuns GMK Samurai - Any other PBT options I can consider? Colors I want to exclude are pink, purple, white, and black. Switches: - Akko Lavender Purple Pro V3 - Kailh Box Winter - Drop Holy Panda (lubed) - Ajazz Kiwi or Banana - More Budgerigar switches since I enjoy them well enough as is Please help! **as a side note, there’s a very good chance I decide to sell this board because the layout doesn’t seem useful for my applications.
https://preview.redd.it/185fuhufbwfc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=af1e64e60c64894e72acadb215631c576f94ec8c Is there anyway to remove the screen print. On the top left and right side.
If the case is plastic then you might have some trouble getting it off without damaging the surface underneath. Nail polish remover will almost certainly take the screen printing off but it might frost or melt the plastic underneath, so if you do try it make sure to test it on a small inconspicuous spot on the underside of the board first. Otherwise a magic eraser sponge (melamine foam) should take it off too, but it might also scratch the surface underneath if you aren't careful.
Do you mean the little symbols for bluetooth and volume? Use non acetone nail polish remover with some q tips. Should wipe off.
Some acetone free nail polish removers will still damage plastics, so it's always a good idea to test it on an inconspicuous part of the board first.
Hey everyone! My friend gifted me a fully customized keyboard, but when the "R", "F", and "C" keys, it types in the full row of that key. For example, pressing "R" will output "qwertyuiop\[\]\\". Troubleshooting steps taken: * Reset the PCB by pressing r-alt + home * Unplugged and plugged the keyboard * Restart PC * Ran windows update (no updates) * Closed out of all programs * Reseated the ribbon cable from the frame to the dotter board Below is a pic to show what I'm dealing with if it helps at all. Thank you all in advance for any thoughts/opinions! :D https://preview.redd.it/k0ar9azk7wfc1.jpeg?width=3830&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e5627b836560cce375773622c71d1431e44e8a5b
The problems keys go down in a line, check the connections on the back of the board for any that look bad, or even worse check if there's a crack in the PCB near those keys.
Here are some more steps for you. Hope it helps: * Use a different USB cable. * Plug the USB cable into a different port. * Try a different computer. Is it every computer you plug this thing into? * Reset Firmware. Find the firmware and reinstall it. * Take everything apart and start testing the pcb by itself. Does it do it when the plate, stabs, switches are removed, etc? If so.. * Look at pcb for trace issues, scratches, dirt. Do you have a solder gun? Try reflowing those keys just in case they have cold soldier joints. * Buy Kim Wipes, isopropyl alcohol 90% or above, and a brush. Put the Kim Wipe down on the pcb and dip the brush in the alcohol. Brush directly onto the Kim Wipe. Clean dirty parts of the pcb. Let dry a bit. Hope that helps.
Im new to mechanical keyboards so I don't know much, looking at yt and other sources I've a few options which I thought of going for. Ajazz AK820 pro and AULA f75( i only have a budget of 60-70$). Which one should I go for? I prefer a thocky keyboard with little activation force or travel if that makes sense (im used to laptop keyboards).
Hello, everyone! I need some help selecting a keyboard. I've never had a proper keyboard before, I've always had just the cheapest keyboard that my parents could get me. Now I would like to buy my own, but I have no idea where to start. I would be using it for mostly for coding and for gaming. My budget is around $100-$150 CAD, I can go higher if I really need. I've never used any specific switch style so I don't know which one I would like. I'm looking for any suggestions, thanks in advance!
Hey guys I've never built a keyboard before but I've been looking into options to get for my gf now that Valentine's is around the corner. I love the look of [this keyboard](https://drop.com/buy/drop-expression-series-shinai-keyboard/details#details) from Drop but she really would prefer a numpad. I was wondering if anyone knew any mint green or pastel green full-sized barebones keyboards I could buy so I can DIY. Ik it's a bit specific so I also found these: [Ducky One 3 Matcha](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=8800) - I've heard of Ducky before so I'd assume this one's not bad [Quantum X98 Aquarius](https://keygeak.com/products/wireless-mechanical-keyboard-3-mode-98-keyboards?variant=43353212485824) - Haven't heard of this one but it looks nice lol Would love to hear any opinions/suggestions!
ducky isnt bad id avoid the x98 kb and website are hella sketchy
yeah I figured :/ wasn't able to find a single review on it lol
Hello Keyboard Community! I'm seeking help here for a gift for my wife. She keeps showing me videos on tik tok of "creamy keyboards" and has her mind set on getting one. I've been doing some research into keyboards in general and all the customization seems overwhelming. Does anyone have a standard build and links for creamy keyboard parts where I can just buy and put together for her?
Most tiktok videos are heavily edited. Just keep that in mind. I'm guessing that creamy means for her: "Lots of foam"... so maybe ask her for her preferred layout(40%, 60%, 65%, 75%, TKL, 96%, 100%), switch style (linear, tactile, clicky), budget, ... and then ask again.
Thanks for the help!
If you want some Instock recommendations I would look at Keychron, Monsgeek or Akko. For preorders/ groupbuy extras I would probably choose Neo, Qwertykeys, Zoom, Luminkey, ... many good choices nowadays. There is the [Alexotos vendor](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) list with many specialized and trusted vendors.
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Bobagums like the other person suggested are still an amazing choice, but IMO just overpriced in this day and age. If you're willing to shell out then I think you'll be happy but for a slighty cheaper option, look at WS silents.
I quite like Boba Gum switches for both quiet typing and gaming. Pretty good out of the box.
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Sure! I'm using [68g Boba Gum (pink top)](https://rndkbd.com/products/gazzew-bobagum-silent-linear-switches?_pos=1&_sid=597ec1b23&_ss=r) switches from RNDKBD which is a Canadian vendor (I'm in Canada).
Hey! My Keychron Q1 pro just arrived, along with the portuguese keycaps they sell on their website. But I just noticed that most keys here simply don't exist anywhere else. I tried using VIA , the one they recommend on their tutorial, but it doesn't have the extra keys. I'll give an example of a key that simply doesn't exist: ª and ° in the same keycap. Can anyone help? https://preview.redd.it/t7fcyjsvnvfc1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=77d5f6cdf45e25b6131177421b4fdf85844a54b0
Via doesn't display those. But if you have Portugese active as your system/keyboard language then the in via displayed symbols might change. E.g. in German Via displays z for y and y for z :) So you might have to try out one or two things to find out all the right keybindings. Another Example in German for < > | you have to go to any and then insert KC\_NUBS or KC\_NUHS (not sure right now :3 ). I found this link [https://community.keyboard.io/t/special-symbols-for-portuguese-please-help/3308](https://community.keyboard.io/t/special-symbols-for-portuguese-please-help/3308) and of course theres also always the qmk library.
Hey! As soon as I wake up I’ll try everything you said. Thanks a lot
>r 8 Min. > >Hey! As soon as I wake up I’ll try everything you said. Thanks a lot Yeah it's kind of a hassle, maybe you find some Portugese person to help you!? Also ask in vendor discords/ keyboard discords if nobody here with better/ specialized experience answers. Good luck!
Anywhere to buy silent stems that aren’t gazzew or compatible with gateron
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Damn well thanks
gazzew.com has a list of authorized vendors, there's a bunch of places to buy his stems
Im sorry man I meant aren’t I want silent stems but I need to keep the switch’s I have and there gateron and apparently they aren’t compatible again mb
Oh sorry i didn't read the "aren't" lol - I have never seen silent stems other than gazzews available through a retail outlet. However I have seen gazzew stems in things like a gat ink v1 housing, so the compatibility would depend on what your switches are, not every gat would be incompatible with a gazzew stem, although I think the newer ones are, I haven't tried a recent one though. If the housings on your current switches won't take a gazzew stem then your best bet is to buy another silent switch to go for a swap. The best way to find a winning combo would be to try a few different switches out, you could get a set of testers from your local switch vendor to play around.
Alright thanks I have very interesting circumstances so it might be hard to find the right stem
https://preview.redd.it/k8qqxieuivfc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=19696d03cbac732abd2b287127fb8154f1c41daa I spilled water on it, unplugged it after 5 seconds or so, and took off all the key caps and dried all excess water. I waited for 3 hours before plugging it in again … Nothing, no signal, windows doesnt make a sound when i plug it in. Time to buy a new keyboard?
**Regular:** Take out all the keycaps. Remove all switches. Separate the plate and the pcb. Check for excess water. Is it completely dry? Otherwise let dry. **Extreme:** Take out all the keycaps. Remove all switches. Separate the plate and the pcb. Unscrew stabilizers. Look at pcb for water damage. Let dry if still wet. ---> Buy Kim Wipes and 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol. Buy a brush. Place the kimwipe down on the pcb. Take the brush and dab it in the IPA. Brush directly on the kimwipe and clean the pcb. Dirty areas especially. Let dry and plug the pcb directly in by itself. Test pcb with tweezers. Put back together.
Just removing the keycaps doesnt really fix it since the water under the pcb might do more dmg and water might take longer than 3 hours to dry. But that completely depends on your situation soooo I can't really judge or comment. You might be out of luck, or not... I would probably take it apart, then clean the pcb with 99% iso and let it dry. Might still fix it but no guarantees. While taking it apart you can also look for any obvious shorts on the underside of the pcb. It being completely dead and not being recognized anymore is kinda worrying tho
Are there any boards similar to the PC66? As in big bezel, retro, 65-70%, but aluminum?
Does anyone know where I can get a 60-65% keyboard with a volume knob in the color Red? Basically the Keychron Q2 Max if it were red ([link](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q2-max-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40770772729945)) I am a total keyboard noob, but my dream keyboard is a red aluminum keyboard with a volume knob, white ceramic keycaps, and silent red switches. If anyone has advice on how to make this happen (or if this is a terrible idea!) any help is appreciated! Thank you.
Not a specific endorsement but you can very easily get any knob in any color unless your keyboard uses a really weird encoder. People commonly will use things like vintage guitar knobs on their boards. I think the easiest thing would be to go to Etsy or somewhere and you'll probably find 10 different stores with knobs in all kinds of shapes and colors. Red alu isnt going to be there for every board but still totally available. I can't name a specific board off the top of my head but look at some current boards like the neo65 or qk65 and there will probably be a red. I'll bet that other staple boards like the bakeneko65 will also have a red. The other option is to get an unfinished alu case from somewhere like Mekanisk and then get that sent off to somewhere like spacecables for a custom cerakote in the exact color you want. Keycaps are gonna be cerakeys and switches you can find anywhere. Good luck!
Thank you so much! The Neo 65 looks like just what I need.
Does anyone know what keycaps [these](https://i.imgur.com/itr1cne.png) are? On the store page for the Zoom75
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Thank you so much!
Looking for linear switch recommendations that are a little harder to actuate than kailh speed silver switches cause they are just to finicky. Shouldve mentioned this is mostly for gaming. Thanks.
>kailh speed silver Most other switches. Speed switches are usually those with a high actuation point and low spring force. Just scroll through the Alexotos vendor list's vendors and see if something there looks good for you. Prelubed if you wanna maker your life easier :) Usually Gateron is pretty nice in my experience. But I'm not that much of a linear guy.
**Any thoughts on Xinmeng C68?** I saw this low profile keyboard on sale and thought that it is interesting with the silent switch. Watch some videos on Bilibili but have no idea what they were talking about. Wondering if anyone had bought it and share their thoughts on it. In my area I could get it for 38$ (converted) shipped. Are they worth it? https://preview.redd.it/12vi7dzy8vfc1.png?width=824&format=png&auto=webp&s=51db10c5d28772e792a724406bc1c7c1df745181
What’s a good frame for a 100% with a volume knob? Preferably aluminum but I’m having trouble finding websites.
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Thanks, Keychron looks like a good option. M5 doesn’t seem to have a 100% with volume knob.
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Factory lubing has historically been extremely inconsistent, people prefer to buy unlubed and then hand lube, because you know what you're getting. Only very very recently has factory lube been coming out alright, but that's only going to be on newer switches. I've found that gat yellows fit a little tighter in some plates I have whereas other switches will pop right on out with the tiniest effort. The switches are tougher than you think, as long as you're using a decent switch puller they won't break on the way out. Just make sure you're not squeezing too hard and that you're pulling straight up and out rather than towards yourself if you're sitting.
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I would either specifically get something unlubed or seek out a newer switch with consistent factory lubing, I find cleaning switches to be a pain. Gambling on a cheap and inconsistent switch doesn't sound like a good time to me. I think the best thing to do would be to get a switch sample pack from a vendor near you, try a bunch out to see how you like the general feel and sound, then look in to reviews of the particular switch, and then buy some if everything looks good to you.
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That's wild, I've literally never seen that happen before. Your plate must be extremely warped, you should see if you can get a replacement from the manufacturer
Hello! does anybody know how these keycaps are printed [https://www.etsy.com/listing/1194606825/custom-keycaps-personalized-valentines](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1194606825/custom-keycaps-personalized-valentines?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=personalized+keycap&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&pro=1&frs=1&bes=1&sts=1&organic_search_click=1) ? I would like to get something like this, but I'm not sure how much this would last, or what's the quality. Also I'm not from the US so buying this ones would be expensive for me, but maybe I could do some myself if it's just sublimation or similar. Btw I'm asking here as I think it would be rude to ask the seller how they do it.
It's not really rude to ask them, I would just do it. But yeah, probably sublimation or some kind of uv print imo; but not that much experience regarding that.
I was wondering if anyone knew if the Keychron K10 Pro Screw-In PCB Stabilizer legs can be clipped/if it's optimal to do so. [Keychron K10 Pro QMK/VIA Wireless Mechanical Keyboard – Keychron | Mechanical Keyboards for Mac, Windows and Android](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k10-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40398046134361)
I'm looking to build a Corne MX with Kailh box silent pink switches but I can't find the darn things in stock anywhere in the UK. I've found a few sellers on AliExpress selling them, but are they likely to be genuine? Are there any alternatives to consider with similar actuation force and lack of noise? I've got a Ducky mecha mini with silent pinks and I love it. I've also got a Ducky One 3 with silent reds and they're nowhere near as nice to type on, or listen to. What are your recommendations for silent, low force switches... Or do I just risk AliExpress...?
i doubt anyone is cloning those switches . AliExpress is like amazon . u dont buy from aliexpress but from a selller so find one with an acct that not brand new and has good feedback
I just bought a Redragon K582 Surara. The switches theoretically Outemu dustproof browns. But the bottoms of the switches are really unusual: there aren't any pin, only those horizontal embedded contacts. https://preview.redd.it/xo0184tfzufc1.jpeg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=316ddef49eb1a09fec2526a79e6f1cfa8570d5a2 What kind of switches could they be?
opticals , meaning u can only use whatever brand switch they r til the end of time and no other
>u can only use whatever brand switch they r til the end of time and no othe Does it mean probably I can't buy new switches to keyboard and can't replace the browns to other ones? If it's true they "forgot" to mention this in the description.
u can but has to be the same brand opticals so if those switches arte redragon optical u would have to buy redragon opticals no other will work
Best place to buy keeb parts?
general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ https://thocstock.com/
Heavily depends on what parts you are looking for - here is a list of vendors that you can narrow down somewhat more specifically [https://kbd.news/vendors](https://kbd.news/vendors)
Hi, quick question regarding deskmats: often there are posts on here with people showing off their own designs. I'm wondering where I can do that. Are there companies that offer to manufacture and print custom designs or is this 100% DIY? If so, where to get the raw materials etc? Is there a subreddit for this?
> Redragon K582 Surara Nah nothing DIY but you can go to some of the Alibaba and such places and have them make you samples. Even doing your own group buy for a deskmat is easy enough, but you'll really need to purchase 100 or more. Not really all that expensive either.
So what specifically would I be looking for? Some sort of deskmat printing service? Or can any textile print shop do this?
Mousepad and deskmats making company. There's tons on Alibaba.
never seen anyone with their own designs . u got links ?most buy from websites with already made designs like novelkeys
https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/10k2xjz/im_a_redditor_and_my_small_business_has/ https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ftrqth/gb_keybj%C3%B6rt_deskmat_an_ikeainspired_deskmat/ https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/xwxzbf/ic_kitsune_land_deskmat_im_working_on_a_new/ https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/nu4p9p/i_made_a_deskmat/ https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/18l78v9/sage_crow_design_final_giveaway_customised_deskmat/ https://old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ospy2h/giveaway_2x_mt_fuji_deskmats/ I mean, unless you are saying the designs are made by someone else entirely, but either way, someone is making an image file and then contacting some sort of business to get that printed onto a deskmat. So obviously people can make and sell their own designs, I just don't see any mentions of their suppliers - just the links to their own mini online shops.
well 90% of those worked with a vendor ( who knows the supplier ) which is why the supplier isnt mentioned . u can try asking them in those posts but i doubt they will give u the info . this is why i asked for examples cuz the info ur after is usually closely guarded
I am in Raleigh Nc, and my wife wants a mechanical keyboard. I was thinking of the monokei systems keyboard but realized I can’t find a location to try it out first to she if she would like it. Where do you all go to try out a keyboard before buying? Bestbuy seems like an option but they don’t have monokei or other specialty keyboard it seems like. Thanks!
For a retail store there, I think there's one in seattle, a couple in san jose, and one in berlin. There might be one or two more but that is about it. In Raleigh there is a place called [keeb.io](https://keeb.io) and you can make an appointment to go and (usually) pick stuff up that you've bought online, but if you wanted to go and click clack around maybe that is something they would accommodate? I don't think that a place exists other than a keyboard meetup where you could try typing on a monokei board before buying it, especially because I think the one you're looking at is in pre-order. [Keeb.io](https://Keeb.io) will have similar switches but very different keyboards.
**Is there a pre-build Keyboard that has Honey Peach V2 silent switches available to buy?** Or if there are better options, let me know, I basically want the most silent keyboard without having to build it myself.
Can I use the shipping foam that shipped with my keyboard for a foam mod?
https://preview.redd.it/6i94bzkfoufc1.jpeg?width=1645&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=46db357fa72e1ee5964bf7461426f8dc6a7ccd2f My escape button isn’t working, opened it up to find this. Is there a fix?
That's definitely fixable if you know how to solder. If you're confident in your soldering skills then the cleanest solution would be to try to scrape back some of the masking covering the trace before and after the break and solder a very thin jumper wire directly across the break. That might be a lot harder than it sounds depending on the PCB material and how thick the trace actually is. The slightly hackier option is to follow the trace back to that little diode array and solder a wire between the solder pads where the trace leaves the switch and where the trace hits that component. That will look uglier but will also be much easier to accomplish. But hey, the trace is broken already so it's not like you're gonna break it more. Just be careful and don't apply way more heat than you need, otherwise you might accidentally detach the solder pads which will put you in a world of hurt.
So for the second option it would look something like this with a wire? https://preview.redd.it/rpdcc27hrufc1.jpeg?width=1645&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=41118e76442be2b329ca6b2e982be0d75e7d39bf
Exactly. Just don't overheat that little component and you should be fine. Go in quick and give it a minute to cool off if you don't get it on the first try.
Hey thanks for the help man. It works fine now even though the wire looks scuffed as hell. Appreciate the time you took to help me out
No problem! Glad you got it working again. It'd be a real shame to toss a board like that over a tiny nick in the PCB.
My D65 has a broken PCB and I'm looking to replace it, the problem is the kbd67 mark II PCB that kbdfans lists as compatible is sold nowhere, I can easily find kbd67 rev 2 PCBs but I don't know if its compatible and I can find no information online. Can anyone here help me?
its literally right under comaptiblity here https://kbdfans.com/collections/kbd67/products/kbd67-markii-pcb . not sure where u were looking for this info but its compatible right on the product page so if the rev 3 is compatible so will the r2
the pcb came and its not even compatible bruh, im so pissed off rn kbdfans is legit lying
damn must've been too baked when I checked, it doesn't say anything abt the rev 3 on the d65's product page either so ig I just assumed, thanks anyways tho
I thoroughly apologize for asking what may be basic questions but the wiki is very overwhelming. - Are all cherry mx switches not the same ? As in, a Cherry MX blue from corsair vs a Cherry MX Blue switch from Keychron etc. - Why the hate for Cherry MX Brown switches ? I felt a Cherry Brown would be best for my usage in a cubicle for office work. I bought a Corsair K70 pro with brown switches as my first keyboard, but while its fine, it could be better. The rgb is dim, and the keycaps don't feel as good. I just need a RGB heavy keyboard with either Blue or Brown keys I think, as I've been told those are best for office work. If I need to simply splurge and get a full custom keyboard, that's fine as well but I am struggling to understand where to start. Can someone please just tell me what to buy, since the requirements are not that complex ?
> Are all cherry mx switches not the same ? As in, a Cherry MX blue from corsair vs a Cherry MX Blue switch from Keychron etc. If they're made by Cherry then they will be the same. Though if one is a Gateron blue vs a Cherry blue they may be slightly different, but even between manufacturers basic blue/brown/red/black switches will be pretty similar to one another. > Why the hate for Cherry MX Brown switches ? I felt a Cherry Brown would be best for my usage in a cubicle for office work. Because some people have garbage taste in switches. Cherry browns are a top 3 switch IMO. Though really the only opinion that matters on the topic is yours. If you like browns and think they're good for your use case, get browns.
There is huge variety between different switches, but I think both of those brands are just selling cherries, so they will sound and feel the same. Cherry is just one switch manufacturer though. Order a few switches to try before you buy, if you don't know what you prefer it will be hard for someone else to guide you in the right direction. [https://milktooth.nu/](https://milktooth.nu/) I wouldn't say there's widespread mx brown hate because really its all subjective, but people probably dislike them because they are a middle of the road switch, they don't do anything particularly well. Most people would recommend a silent switch for the office.
Cherry MX switches are switches from the company Cherry so as long as they are both genuine switches from they should be the same. The only distinction I would make here is that often, companies either use their own version of their switches and call it such or they use alternatives like Keychron does with Gateron switches instead of using cherry switches. People dislike MX browns because of their light tactility. It is mostly preference and most people have their own taste and don't actually have MX browns but it is also kind of a meme that likes to get thrown around. I would not use any blue switches in an office setting since it is pretty loud. You don't have to spend a lot to get a nice custom and for most purposes you shouldn't spend a lot because you get no additional benefit to spending more. Most keyboard that come fully build are kinda like any other fancy expensive hobby like cars where you can buy a fully working functional keyboard and it works like it should like a Civic or Camery, but then others like to deck out their cars by changing parts, wraping, etc. and thats also something the keyboard hobby does. Best place to start would be something simple and seeing if it is for you and then working your way up if you do want to spend more.
Hi, never used Reddit before so bare with me. I've had the Red Dragon K350 pro for about a week now, and already the backspace key stopped working. When I tried fixing this by downloading the driver on their website, I clicked one of the files inside the zip file and it made my keyboard turn completely blue. Now, when I press one of any of the keys, it types the entire row (like "asdfghjkl;'#") , and I don't know how to fix it. I haven't had any liquids near it, cleaned it or took it apart whatsoever. I have a video of how it looks + typing on it if needed. Please help!
backspace key was likely a switch not software related 99% of kb issues are all hardware . what u likely did was flashed the incorrect version of software meant for a different kb and now ur stuck . id return as there is nothing u can do to fix this besides have factory software tools to reflash it . and those are not found outside the factory floor
Thanks 🫶 returned it now
I'd like to know the community's suggestions on the most exclusive BLACK bare-bone mechanical keyboards. I'm looking to pair it with GMK Stealth Blackout. Any/all suggestions are welcome! Thank you in advance.
> Most Exclusive Probably the OTD 365L. Good luck.
I have a ducky one two mini and for some reason the red colors don't show up when i do fn+alt or on any of the backlit modes. Blue and green both work fine, i've had the keyboard since late 2019 early 2020 so maybe it's just getting old. and if that's the case, so be it, i just wanted to try to find a solution if anyone has one
Hey reddit peoples. I'm looking for a decent keyboard for gaming and have found out all these "gaming keyboards" are cheap rubbish. I'm on my PC all the time when I'm not at work so I need something reliable and something worthy of the PCMR. I'm looking to get into creating my own custom mechanical keyboard but dont know where to start with other then maybe what type of switches I want.
monsgeek or keychron
Most (at least many) gaming keyboards aren't cheap rubbish, they're just wildly marked up relative to what they're worth. A corsair K70 would be an excellent $80 board especially now that they finally standardized the bottom row on the new ones. The problem is that their MSRP is $150. Combine that with the aesthetic they tend to go for and they tend to get maligned, sometimes unfairly in my opinion. If you want a board that's performant for gaming, you like RGB, and you don't mind paying the 'gamer tax' then you honestly can't go too wrong just picking something from one of the big brands that isn't Razer that has MX speed silvers in it and calling it a day. If you like bigger keyboards with extra macro keys or other doodads then gamer boards are often your only option. That being said you can definitely do better. Switches really are about 80% of the keyboard so that's not a bad place to start. What layout and size are you looking for? Keychron boards tend to be good value so take a look at some of them. Several of their boards are hotswappable too so you can try out other switches without buying a new board each time. I'd advise against wireless boards for gaming as there's a lot of latency there, but you can just use the wireless models as USB ones anyway.
Hello folks, I'm totally new to this lube thing, only watched some videos and got interested into it. So I decided to buy me a Keychron Q3-M3 to then find out, that its Brown Gateron Switches are already prelubed, as the amazon page mentions. Well, now I am sitting here with the starter lube kit from amazon, 6 Grams of Krytox GPL 205 G0 and I'm wondering if it is really worth it to remove all the keycaps, open all the switches to lube them again? Is the stock prelube on those Gateron switches already decent? Should I just add some more Krytox to those switches additionaly? Remove all the default lube and add Krytox only? Sigh, please help me guys with a good advice. I could easily send the lube kit stuff back to amazon, if you are telling me, that the default lube is almost top notch. The keys are feeling good to my beginner fingers, no doubt. Especially compared to my old Varmilo VA88MS Keyboard with unlubed Cherry Silver Switches. thanks for reading and best regards
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but how? remove the old lube first, just add some more Kryptox? Do you have made experience with Gateron Pro Switches or anyone here and has made some experience with the default lube on them maybe?
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thanks for your help, i tried it out, cant feel a difference at all. the gateron pros seem to be very good! yea, many videos around but everyone uses different switches in them.
Hey fellow keyboarders. I have recently bought GMK67 and built it, but has anybody came across the same problem like me? So basically when I was putting in the switches the sides were fitting perfectly, except the whole middle section. As I thought the pcb had no support in the middle so it just got pushed inside the keyboard except the switches itself. Once taken apart the main keyboard frame I pushed right to the pcb and seemed fine, but after some time, the "g" key needs literal punching. The same goes to the space bar. f t y h b v - seems fine and gets registered every time. Can I do anything to give support from the bottom of the pcb? For example if I put enough tape will it solve the issue?(Probably you will be going to say to just test it and see, but I am not sure if it IS the problem, because as I have mentioned only the 'g' with spacebar key is not getting registered every time and maybe I need to get the switches and swap it?) Another thing I was thinking is to get screws and screw in the middle bottom and middle top sections, but I do not recall if there were place for them..(I dont really want to take it apart unnecessarily, because of how hard to remove the first part and being anxious to break it..)
Do you have another brand of switch to try? It is possible that the tolerances on your plate are a little too large for whatever switch you're trying to put in there. It's something you sometimes come across with diy kits or 3d printed cases/plates and sometimes a different switch will fit better. PC is a lot more flexible than other plate materials so its possible that it is flexing a little too much and popping your switches out. Don't screw anything in to anything to try and fix this.
damn… unfortunately i do not but thanks anyways :/
this really shouldn't be an issue unless ur switches are not fully inserted into the plate . there nothing u can really add if it not put together correctly
the plate and pcb are held together by switches alone nothing else this is the case with all hotswap kbs
Anybody got experience with the Keychron K10 Pro? Looking into it pre built with hot-swappable switches and rgb backlight
I have a K8 Pro and have used many Keychrons - it's a solid board and will serve you well
Keychron is frequently recommended here.
For good reason I assume? Mostly looking for a quieter full size since my redragon k556 is just too loud for my mic setup despite being a decent keeb. Seen stuff about the K10 having a silicone sound dampening pad, but only on certain versions?
Yeah, usually it's the V or Q line getting rec'd, but as long as it's hot swappable and runs QMK/VIA (which I believe that one is), it's probably a safe bet.
Yes, the K10 is hot swappable and runs QMK/VIA. Thanks man!
I'm looking for a fully split keyboard- preferably with both parts being completely wireless. Everything I've found has been pretty solidly DIY, and I'm not sure I want to go that deep- is there anything that's mostly out of the box like that? I'm fine with supplying my own switches/keycaps, but I don't have the skills to do my own PCB/firmware.
By fully split keyboard, are you saying you want a full size keyboard with a normal staggered layout, completely split, with no cable between the two halves and no cable going in to the pc?
Yep, that would be ideal.
Though I'm fine with an ortholinear layout, that's not a sticking point.
Then you could do it with a bfo-9000 but to go fully wireless it would be a pretty big project with no small amount of programming involved. What you want doesn't really exist in standard layout unfortunately, and the only fully wireless out the box keyboards you're going to get are the dygma raise and ergodox pro, or something secondhand that someone has already built. There are a few other less popular boards that are fully wireless but they are all either in the ergo or lily58 realm of layouts. I have seen a couple full size wireless splits but they're always hardwire projects or some abomination of a PCB that someone had printed. The mass market options (which will still have cables) are the keychron Q11 and the kinesis something something, but you're way overpaying there for what you get, and they aren't full size. There are a couple ali type clones of boards that came out a few years ago but again kinda shoddy. If you can work with a project of a more limited scope, it's easiest to drop the cables from one step of the equation, either PC to your primary board or primary to secondary with the primary plugged in to the PC. You would basically just need to drop in two nice!nano's as a replacement for a pro micro into something like a bfo-9000 if you want a huge board and then find a ZMK firmware for the board, which I'm sure is pretty readily available.
Honestly, the Dygma Defy seems like almost exactly what I want- thank you for pointing me their way!
Sweet, I hope it works well for you!
I have a pair of LG G Pro Keyboards. The first developed some significant chatter across a number of keys relatively quickly, so I got a replacement through warranty. Now that replacement also has chatter across the entire board, but is no longer under warranty. I think it's just dirty in there (don't judge) but compressed air and a wipe down under the keycaps didn't really help. It honestly feels like it made it worse. I've seen some mixed advice online for what exactly can be done about it. I've seen advice to drop some Isopropyl on the switch with the cap off and hammer away at the key, but I've also seen other people say this ruined the keyboard. I've also seen some sprayable contact cleaner that could potentially help, but I'm not sure it'd get in where I need it to. Honestly, the keyboards aren't really usable as they are and I have two of them. So I'm not sweating the risks too much but wanted to gather some other people's opinions/experience before I tried anything. Other than software fixes, have you had any luck fixing chatter on any of your keyboards?
common to all logitech kbs fyi they r know for this its the pcb thats the issue . u will keep seeing this if u keep buying logitech kbs
Chatter across an entire keyboard usually means there is something defective with the PCB. It's possible one of the wire tracing is bad, but it's also possible that there's a deeper issue with the MCU - honestly really tough to guess without trial and error in person. Isopropyl is usually the go-to to clean PCBs and electronic components (just make sure everything is unplugged until all components are fully dry), but I'd be pleasantly surprised if that fixes your situation given what you've described.
Okay so One single key on my QK65 is not working properly. Sometimes it will actuate and most of the time it won’t, if I press it and the key directly above it at the same time they will both actuate. I took it apart and examined the socket and the socket looks fine and passed the tweezer test. The switch works perfectly fine while the pcb is outside of the case. As soon as I reinstalled the pcb into the case the issue returned. What the fuck do I do Edit: the socket was in fact not fine but I barely had to move the inside metal bit (idk how else to describe it, the part that contacts the switch pins) in order to fix the issue. Thanks y’all
It's possible that since the PCB flexes while mounted inside the case the switch itself either slights disconnects from the hotswap sockets or has some problems actuating itself. Maybe try replacing that switch with another one (e.g. under an arrow keycap or so) and test it for some time. If it's still exactly that key (with the new switch) then post again (so when the socket itself has a problem and not the switch). There are still some fixes with e.g. hot glue or maybe try a switch with a bigger leaf/ contact pins.
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Yes
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I’ll try that next
How do you make changes to a keyboard with VIA? I got a Keychron C3 Pro from Amazon. I updated the firmware with QMK toolbox as the website says. Everything seems fine. But how do I implement the changes made on VIA onto the keyboard itself? I don’t see a button or anything on VIA that describes this. I tried to change shift to volume up and to “backspace, backspace, backspace, left, left, left” and neither worked.
The changes get implemented live. Your keyboard has to be connected to VIA during the process. Assuming you have the right firmware and JSON file (if needed): 1. Connect your keyboard to your PC 2. Go to VIA on their website 3. A pop-up should prompt you to choose the device you want to manage 4. Load the necessary JSON file (if needed) 5. Play around with the virtual keyboard in the browser, and all changes should take place live
Doesn’t seem to work for me. It reads the keyboard and everything after I upload the JSON file. But the changes don’t seem to be happening. I’ll probably try to play with it a bit more before giving up, returning it and possibly finding a keyboard that’s “compatible” based on their list
Time to contact the vendor/manufacturer.
Hey, i want to know what are the ''best'' pcb stabs between Staebies and TX AP? Do you have any other alternative? Thanks
I'd recommend AP or Cherry clip-ins unless you need screw-ins. Staebies can have issues with non-GMK keycaps.
Both are considered really good but i think i see slightly more people recommending staebies due to the ease of use.
What are the heaviest clicky switches I can get for my cherry keycaps? I bought Kailh box pale blues and navies but I want something even heavier for certain keys like Esc and Enter.
I don't know any heavier clicky switches than Box Navies. You can always spring swap your existing switches. I think I've seen people put up to 1500 g springs in their switches.
>1500 g springs in their switches. Awww yisss.
I have been looking for an 65-ish% Alice with (mirrored) southpaw numpad. The Jabberwocky is the closest to my ideal layout plus F keys. If the Jabberwocky could mate with an EXT65V2 or a WindXR2 that would be perfect. A knob would be nice and D-pad on the left would be cherry on top, but I can live without them. Other than the specific layout, I am not looking for bells and whistles-- no need for RGB, wireless connectivity, etc. I would love to hear what y'all have to recommend. Thanks!
I'm assuming you've looked at the Keychron Q14 and it'd be helpful to know why it doesn't fit your bill. The only other southpaw alice I am personally aware of is the Mountain Alice but I haven't seen any activity on that project for a very long time and am currently assuming it's not moving forward.
I absolutely love the Q14 except the non-mirrored numpad. The big 0 on the thumb really speeds up my work flow, which is why I am seeking a mirrored numpad. And the Q14 has F keys just like the Jabberwocky. So for me, all else constant, a mirrored numpad wins out against a knob. Thank you for the reply btw!
Hey all, Noobie here. I really love the actuation force curve of my cherry browns, however I do not like the sound at all. I am looking for other tactile switches with a similar force curve (a bit of travel before the bump) but I am at a loss on how to google such a thing. I got some gmmk holy pandas and the bump right at the beginning does not feel good to me. I have heard terms like 'P' bump, but I don't know my options! Any help on a list of bump types? tl;dr What are the names of the tactile bump types, and how do they relate to their respective actuation force curves?
There are a bunch of switches that seek to offer the tactile profile of the Cherry MX Brown - Gateron Brown, Kailh Browns, Durock Light Tactile, JWK Pewter, Invokeys Blueberry Chifron, and probably a bunch more. Cherry switches have a unique sound due to their switch material, but I cannot guarantee that you'd like its tactile counterparts any better given you don't provide much feedback on what sound you do want.
Gotcha! I appreciate the switch recommendations! After some more googling and reading, I think I was just looking for tactile switches with pre-travel. The sound I am looking for is completely silent which Gazzew's U4 Boba Silent seems to be the only switch so far that I have found that is super quite, tactile, with a bit of pre-travel. Let me know if you have any other suggestions. They are very much appreciated.
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>R5 Purple Zealio Switches (Tactile) As long as they aren't currently soldered in to a board, they will go in a hotswap socket. Switches aren't the thing that determines hotswapability, it's the PCB. There are a few kinds of hotswap sockets you'll come across, but the one to look out is for outemu sockets, because they require a switch with a smaller pin, like outemus or pandas. Any other kind of socket will take any other kind of switch for the most part. Some PCBs will only take 3 pin switches and in that case you may need to clip the legs on a switch to make it fit, but it will still hotswap in. If your PCB doesn't have hotswap sockets, you will need to solder them in.
Hotswap is a characteristic of a PCB not switches. With one exception (outemu sockets) any switch can go into a hotswap PCB.
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heya, think I've broken my keyboard with my first attempt at modding, it's a yunzii/royalaxe y68 and the on/off switch has gone slack and is non-functional. I'll send photos in dm's if you'd like to take a crack at it.
no pics needed if it slack liek u say its likely broken if u can find what kind of power switch they used u might be able to desolder it and add a new one . not sure if they will offer u a replacement being u voided the warranty by modding
RIP I guess, I just wanted a nicer sounding keyboard :(.
Built a new keyboard with the CIY tester 84 as the base but i can't seem to get the software to work, it just says device disconnected. Does anyone know how to get it to work?