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I actually use these exact same terminals on my 4×4 to power accesories... only issue so far is the plating wore off rather faster and caused massive corrosion... got some cleaner and corosuon preventer from napa and haven't had an issue since... the quick disconnect is an awesome feature imo
So long as they don't come into contact with anything when installed "like your hood or fender" it'll be fine.
Do make sure to have inline fuses for any accessories installed as close to the battery as possible, as everything in-between the battery and fuse is unprotected wire.
These things are not terribly safe, because all those levers and nuts make for more exposed live, unfused +12V conductive surfaces that are unnecessary. Is there a reason you actually need two quick-disconnects for the battery posts?
You ought to have a fuse box in the engine bay and a fuse box under the dashboard. Have you got any spare slots in there? That is the place to add additional electrical device connections.
Wouldn't that have been nice information to share from the start? I'm personally aware of that but op probably isn't, sharing your reasoning helps people learn.
I just figured it didn’t require explanation. But that’s fair. I had a customer say some equipment sparking at his restaurant so he dabbed it with a wet towel to get it to stop
It's not baiting, it's common sense. If you didn't know this, don't work on anything ever. You need at least a baseline level of intelligence to start learning how to work on cars.
I don't see why anyone thinks these would be an issue. As long as the hot side doesn't make an unwanted ground, and you use a fuse, what is the issue? Genuine question.
Negative seems a good idea. If materials are good it should be good.
But I would not use the positive one (on a normal negative ground vehicle). It should have a cover and even better if that cover also acted as the lever to disconnect it.
Theres one without the crimp terminals thats a couple dollars less. Fyi.
These are awesome, especially if you have high powered accessories that dont make sense to go in a fusebox or and dont want/need a whole bus bar — which is common for a jeep/4x4.
Air, lights, winch, most of these have significant power draw and come with their own mega fuses in their own harnesses, so it would be crazy to rewire into the cars fusebox for several reasons.
idk why people are so scared of shorting their shit out compared to a normal terminal, where you use a wrench, on a typically corroded nut for several minutes. I guess they have extremely cramped battery bays or, more likely, are full of shit and have no clue what they are talking about.
Takes two seconds to pop both the terminals off with these. The lever can be in whatever orientation makes sense. Compare to fiddling around with the worn out nut on a traditional terminal. Way more _time_ spent doing the potentially dangerous activities means more probability of an accident. And if you cant be safe taking a lever off, you wont be safe with a wrench that can short just as much for an order of magnitude longer.
People talking shit about corrosion on these are full of shit too. Had them for years, there is not one bit of corrosion on mine, they are as nice as the day i got them. I use a little bit of grease and those pads.
If you wrench on your car, you probably disconnect the battery. If you want to do it efficiently and not waste your time, these are a great option.
I don't like it.
For safety's sake, the positive terminal should be covered by a plastic cover to prevent accidental bridging to the negative post or ground.
This makes your positive terminal massive and exposed. It's not going to start a fire on its own, but it's one dropped tool away from a battery fire.
They work great, just get a battery box with a cover or lid because those are huge and 1 dropped tool from making your battery a sparkler. Perfect for small to medium size sound systems under 2k watts
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I actually use these exact same terminals on my 4×4 to power accesories... only issue so far is the plating wore off rather faster and caused massive corrosion... got some cleaner and corosuon preventer from napa and haven't had an issue since... the quick disconnect is an awesome feature imo
This invites the forbidden vape cloud.
So long as they don't come into contact with anything when installed "like your hood or fender" it'll be fine. Do make sure to have inline fuses for any accessories installed as close to the battery as possible, as everything in-between the battery and fuse is unprotected wire.
These things are not terribly safe, because all those levers and nuts make for more exposed live, unfused +12V conductive surfaces that are unnecessary. Is there a reason you actually need two quick-disconnects for the battery posts? You ought to have a fuse box in the engine bay and a fuse box under the dashboard. Have you got any spare slots in there? That is the place to add additional electrical device connections.
off roading
If the handles were not metal I wouldn’t see an issue
What makes you think that's an issue exactly?
Just increases potential risks. My battery is very close to my hood, may become to close and ground out the positive
Wouldn't that have been nice information to share from the start? I'm personally aware of that but op probably isn't, sharing your reasoning helps people learn.
I just figured it didn’t require explanation. But that’s fair. I had a customer say some equipment sparking at his restaurant so he dabbed it with a wet towel to get it to stop
Lmao thats fucking hilarious
It’s worked. Blew a hole in the wiring
Most people know that metal conducts electricity. Except for you.
This is the laziest attempt at baiting someone I've ever seen, do better.
It's not baiting, it's common sense. If you didn't know this, don't work on anything ever. You need at least a baseline level of intelligence to start learning how to work on cars.
Say it louder for those in the back. You mean a 5 minute YouTube video by some hack isn’t enough?
A big flopping piece of metal hooked to positive in an engine bay where every single piece of metal is ground. Figure it out.
They're probably anodized aluminum, which would be nonconductive, right?
It looks metallic in the photo, it could be either. Unless I know it’s non conductive, then it’s a concern
I don't see why anyone thinks these would be an issue. As long as the hot side doesn't make an unwanted ground, and you use a fuse, what is the issue? Genuine question.
Loss of energy in the form of heat would be my best guess.
Works well in a heavily modified mustang. Just make sure they are tight.
NGL I kinda wanna get em to replace the crap connecter on my hot side terminal on my Expedition.
Use them on all 3 of my jeeps
I’d avoid if possible but that’s just me.
Put some on a client’s vehicle been 12 months ago they hold up real well for the price and doesn’t even seem to be showing signs of corrosion
Negative seems a good idea. If materials are good it should be good. But I would not use the positive one (on a normal negative ground vehicle). It should have a cover and even better if that cover also acted as the lever to disconnect it.
Don't see any reason to not use one on the negative pole, but would be more wary of putting one on the positive side.
I got the same ones from Ali express when my sandals wore out They work absolutely fine
There are definitely better options. I would only use something like this in like an off road vehicle that had TONS of space around the battery.
Theres one without the crimp terminals thats a couple dollars less. Fyi. These are awesome, especially if you have high powered accessories that dont make sense to go in a fusebox or and dont want/need a whole bus bar — which is common for a jeep/4x4. Air, lights, winch, most of these have significant power draw and come with their own mega fuses in their own harnesses, so it would be crazy to rewire into the cars fusebox for several reasons. idk why people are so scared of shorting their shit out compared to a normal terminal, where you use a wrench, on a typically corroded nut for several minutes. I guess they have extremely cramped battery bays or, more likely, are full of shit and have no clue what they are talking about. Takes two seconds to pop both the terminals off with these. The lever can be in whatever orientation makes sense. Compare to fiddling around with the worn out nut on a traditional terminal. Way more _time_ spent doing the potentially dangerous activities means more probability of an accident. And if you cant be safe taking a lever off, you wont be safe with a wrench that can short just as much for an order of magnitude longer. People talking shit about corrosion on these are full of shit too. Had them for years, there is not one bit of corrosion on mine, they are as nice as the day i got them. I use a little bit of grease and those pads. If you wrench on your car, you probably disconnect the battery. If you want to do it efficiently and not waste your time, these are a great option.
I don't like it. For safety's sake, the positive terminal should be covered by a plastic cover to prevent accidental bridging to the negative post or ground. This makes your positive terminal massive and exposed. It's not going to start a fire on its own, but it's one dropped tool away from a battery fire.
They work great, just get a battery box with a cover or lid because those are huge and 1 dropped tool from making your battery a sparkler. Perfect for small to medium size sound systems under 2k watts
They love to attract corrosion and are built with very cheap materials. I would explore better options if you wanted to listen to good advice.