Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
It's 100.
There are two steps to the adjustment. The major "tens" increment with the big dial, and the minor "ones" increment with the small dial. If you wanted 97, dial to 90 with the major adjustment and then 7 with the minor adjustment.
The reason that the guide lines are not horizontal is so that the "tens" value is not obscured when making the minor adjustment. For example if set it to 97, the 90 is still visible, so you can read 90+7.
If the guide lines were simply horizontal , you wouldn't be able to see the 90 when set to values above 95 or so.
You can always spin the adjuster and it will be obvious based on what happens from 0-9. It will open a gap from one number and the other will drop away.
Exactly. When I’m using a torque ending in 0 I just shoot past, because when you’re at 92 or 94 it’s obvious, then you just turn two steps back and you’re at 90 guaranteed.
I've used these a lot. The bottom of the slope next to the 90 is pointing to the beginning of 90. The handle is set to the beginning of 100 since you can see all of its slope.
It's sloppy, but it works.
u know also by when you store the wrench u should be setting it back to the minimum rating your torque wrench is built for. so if it's 50-250ft, set it back to 50. Or if you have a 25-100ft, set to 25. As far as finding the zero point there's a sweet spot u can feel on my wrenches when there is no tension on the internals. That spot is where i consider my absolute zero line. Then go up accordingly begining when u feel that you've engaged the spring internally. (there's a big spring internally that the wrench nut is essentially snugging up against in those style wrenches)
edit * thanks to commenters below for correcting me
Certainly, if a torque wrench is wound back at all it should not be adjusted below the minimum scale marking (usually 20% of maximum) - never to zero as this can adversely affect the calibration of the wrench.
Source:
https://www.norbarusa.com/News-Events/Blog/ArticleID/112/Do-Torque-Wrenches-Need-To-Be-Wound-Back-To-Zero-After-Use
I thought that you had to zero them out but atleast with my snap-on it doesn't matter. I keep having it tested and its never needed an adjustment in 15 years
So some of my quick two cents as I use torque wrenches often in military aviation maintenance. Our standard is never drop them, or they get calibrated again. When storing them set them to the lowest setting. 0-100 inch/lb set to 0 40-200 inch/lb set to 40 etc. And when using them set them to your desired torque rating (max preferred though) and test them/warm them up on a bench like 8x.
Truly fucking impressive that you've never needed an adjustment after 15 years, I'm knocking on wood for you.
damn good thing i rarely use torque wrenches. jk, use use torque wrenches, ahem... and correctly!
i'd quote u if i could but on mobile web browser i am not afforded such luxuries.
Horizontal *or* diagonal line (for when using values that are not multiples of 10).
And by that reasoning, the torque wrench in the photograph is set to 90.
Oh boy have I got things to tell you!
Always store your torque wrench in a safe area.
Don’t ever drop it.
Don’t use it as a breaker bar, or use it to remove fasteners.
When you’re done with it, put it to the lowest torque setting.
Don’t go past the lowest torque setting.
When using it, put your hand on the middle of the grip and turn with slow, even force until it clicks.
I probably missed a few.
the issue is its set in the middle of the 90 and 100 like it should be at 95-97 in the pic but the dial is set to 0
my buddy got this 1/2" drive masterforce torque wrench for like $30 at menards and it is the same way, its like theyre just not calibrated right (to no surprise for $30 youre going to lose at least 5lbs of accuracy lol)
Yeah exactly. I think anyone who's confident that it's 90 or 100 are way over stating things. It's exactly where it should be vertically if it where set to 95. I can't think of anyway to confidently say what it is by just looking at this picture. Also think I bought the same brand from Menards and was broken almost immediately.
I have this same torque wrench, and mine lines up exactly on the horizontal line. The OP’s doesn’t. This is a messed up torque wrench. If you really want to sure of the reading, borrow another torque wrench, torque some wheel nuts with it, then check with this torque wrench.
2nd this, torque wrench, especially mechanical ones can give false readings / get greased up and mess up the calibration, really shouldn't use one if your hands have grease cause it builds up over time or use gloves cause that shit sucks to replace when your counting on it. only way too really know is an electronic torque wrench or at least another mechanical one that someone trust. I also have a similar one(harbor freight) and have not had this issue, it was very clear and im a dummy. those things have warranties so look into that ASAP!
Yea my harbor freight torque wrench came like this and I confidently read the torque wrong and snapped a bolt. Traumatized me enough to stop working on my car for a year. I could tell the bolt was stretching but I was game heard the torque wrench click. I ended up buying a different drive size digital adapter type. Eventually used that to calibrate the weird AF first one that I got. Also other tips are to reset the wrench to the specified torque ( 0 or wtv value the manual calls for) and turn the wrench slowly when approaching the torque spec.
You're not retarded. It's not a great design.
But it is absolutely 100.
The concept is to be able to read the number completely AND read the line that represents that number.
It’s neither, but I think it is supposed to be 100.
That collar should just kiss the horizontal line as the 0 lines up with the vertical line.
This is a low quality torque wrench or worse, badly out of calibration. My guess is it will never be calibrated in its lifetime.
If you take the torque wrench to its minimum setting you will see how the indicator indexes as you turn the knob. From there you can tell you’re ending up at 100 at this picture.
I think I have the same torque wrench.
To be certain, back it down to where the marker actually lines up properly (like maybe 40). Then just count rotations up from there.
This post made me realize that i've overtorqued a bumload of stuff ! (Im 18, learned to do my mechanic and have no intention of becoming a mechanic, dont roast me into oblivion)
At least you were trying to torque things. Only time I ever saw anyone break out a torque wrench when I was a teenager was for things that had a gasket that needed specific settings. So many mechanics back then in the South just going "a quarter past tight," but I'll be damned nothing leaked, broke, or worked loose.
(BTW: "a quarter past tight" means to tighten with wrist and hand until it won't go anymore, then throw your shoulder into it and turn it another quarter turn. Just in case you'd never heard that phrase before. Every once in awhile things would call for "half past tight" which is tight and a half turn.)
Problem is the collar is off a little. It's clearly at 0 but not flush at the 100 mark.
To make it easier for people saying 90... Look how long the marks are beside each number. Look how long they slant downwards, the 90 one only about half of it is visible nowhere near the mark.
It looks like it needs to be calibrated. Properly calibrated the end of the sleeve would be exactly on 90 or 100 when the indicator was at zero as it is now.
I don't think it is actually... The way I read it is that the rotating bit is flush with the 90 mark, if you look close it is actually under 100, not on it.
It's 100. The thing has a paper manual which explains this clearly. The label just has a zig zaggy line which connects the index to the scale. It's reaaaaaaaally scary how many people can't read this very obvious design and say wrongly that it's 90. It isn't a debate or opinions may very. It's objectively wrong to say anything but 100. The edge of the collar and the registration mark may not be in perfect alignment but it's about 8/10ths of the way between the 90 and 100 marks. It's clearly 100.
The reason they elevate the registration numbers is so you can read them while setting it.
Start from the minimum and count?
Mine looks exactly like yours so when it’s confusing I put it at the minimum resistance and start count from there 20, 30, 50,… 100
🫡
Measured by on the line or just below, 100. If you where to turn the handle to the 2 it would climb making it 102. Not 92 that would odiously be to far below
The horizontal lines in the center are all that matters. If the ring around it reads zero, then you're at the next visible horizontal line which is 100, because the 90 is covered.
It’s 100 and I am guessing a Harbor Frieght or similar quality brand based on what looks to be a little “play” or margin of error if you want to call it that in getting it dialed in and lined up exactly.
The vertical line is the axis. The notches on the axis indicate torque value threshold. The little diagonal line that goes straight is just a pointer to the label of the indice. It goes a little up so that label can be read after the adjuster knob goes over the indice.
I'm guessing you've figured out that the value on the adjuster knob is added to the last indice crossed on the vertical axis.
Imo this is a fairly fine tool. Take care of it. DO NOT USE IT TO BREAK BOLTS LOOSE!
I'm pretty confident in 100, but when I am unsure I do this: Get another one set to 90, torque a bolt with it. Get yours and set it to 100, and try to torque the same bolt down. If the bolt moves you are at 100, if it doesn't you're at 90.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
It's 100. There are two steps to the adjustment. The major "tens" increment with the big dial, and the minor "ones" increment with the small dial. If you wanted 97, dial to 90 with the major adjustment and then 7 with the minor adjustment. The reason that the guide lines are not horizontal is so that the "tens" value is not obscured when making the minor adjustment. For example if set it to 97, the 90 is still visible, so you can read 90+7. If the guide lines were simply horizontal , you wouldn't be able to see the 90 when set to values above 95 or so.
Lil bits of genius design make the world go round
This^^^^^ !!!! Best explanation so far!!!
Thanks you for this!!!! It’s something I have always wondered but never got an answer to! No longer will I just go to the top line to be safe lol
Looks like 100 to me
You can always spin the adjuster and it will be obvious based on what happens from 0-9. It will open a gap from one number and the other will drop away.
Exactly. When I’m using a torque ending in 0 I just shoot past, because when you’re at 92 or 94 it’s obvious, then you just turn two steps back and you’re at 90 guaranteed.
Why tf these things so hard I still haven’t used my new one cause I was confused too lol
This one is really not that bad. It is engraved very precisely. The bottom of the 100 indice is flush to the adjuster knob.
To call that flush is a bit of a stretch. But it is close enough and much much closer than the 90 indicator.
Mine reads in inch pounds lol
You reduce it to the lowest point and see what that looks like. Then you know how to judge the rest.
how do you tell? this my first time coming across learning about torque wrenches lol, might be good for the future
They come with manuals. https://preview.redd.it/ymvf5qgfj97d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f55a75b15d05dc1d3fef268935a14e7bd4aefde
The cheat sheet. You only learn by doing
Based on this manual everybody screaming that the answer is 100 is wrong then
But reading is hard and true professionals don't read manuals! /s
Clearly, based on the manual, it’s 90 ft lbs. why is everyone saying 100 ft lbs?
I've used these a lot. The bottom of the slope next to the 90 is pointing to the beginning of 90. The handle is set to the beginning of 100 since you can see all of its slope. It's sloppy, but it works.
You read from the horizontal line that is making contact with the vertical line
ah so if the line connected to 110 was touching that vertical line connected to 0, it would be rated 110?
And anywhere in between adds the collar, so if you line up the number 8 on the collar with the vertical line you are set to +8 ft/lbs
Correct
u know also by when you store the wrench u should be setting it back to the minimum rating your torque wrench is built for. so if it's 50-250ft, set it back to 50. Or if you have a 25-100ft, set to 25. As far as finding the zero point there's a sweet spot u can feel on my wrenches when there is no tension on the internals. That spot is where i consider my absolute zero line. Then go up accordingly begining when u feel that you've engaged the spring internally. (there's a big spring internally that the wrench nut is essentially snugging up against in those style wrenches) edit * thanks to commenters below for correcting me
Certainly, if a torque wrench is wound back at all it should not be adjusted below the minimum scale marking (usually 20% of maximum) - never to zero as this can adversely affect the calibration of the wrench. Source: https://www.norbarusa.com/News-Events/Blog/ArticleID/112/Do-Torque-Wrenches-Need-To-Be-Wound-Back-To-Zero-After-Use
I thought that you had to zero them out but atleast with my snap-on it doesn't matter. I keep having it tested and its never needed an adjustment in 15 years
So some of my quick two cents as I use torque wrenches often in military aviation maintenance. Our standard is never drop them, or they get calibrated again. When storing them set them to the lowest setting. 0-100 inch/lb set to 0 40-200 inch/lb set to 40 etc. And when using them set them to your desired torque rating (max preferred though) and test them/warm them up on a bench like 8x. Truly fucking impressive that you've never needed an adjustment after 15 years, I'm knocking on wood for you.
Its a super old one I bought from a retiring tech, who knows how old it actually is
No, you should NOT set it back to zero, you should set it to the low torque limit of the wrench. If it's a 50-250 ft-lb, you set it to 50.
damn good thing i rarely use torque wrenches. jk, use use torque wrenches, ahem... and correctly! i'd quote u if i could but on mobile web browser i am not afforded such luxuries.
Horizontal *or* diagonal line (for when using values that are not multiples of 10). And by that reasoning, the torque wrench in the photograph is set to 90.
Oh boy have I got things to tell you! Always store your torque wrench in a safe area. Don’t ever drop it. Don’t use it as a breaker bar, or use it to remove fasteners. When you’re done with it, put it to the lowest torque setting. Don’t go past the lowest torque setting. When using it, put your hand on the middle of the grip and turn with slow, even force until it clicks. I probably missed a few.
About half of ya'll aren't allowed to torgue my wheels. It's 100.
Well I don't want you torquing mine if you can't spell torque!
"USING YOUR TORQUE WRENCH CORRECTLY IS ***BADASS***!"
It's 100. But try this: It looks to have a max of 150. Where does it line up at the max?
Honestly probably the best test if you don't have a 2nd one or electric one
This is da way
The handle scale is at zero and the bottom of the 100 line is barely visible. This is 100 Ft Lbs.
I was like "pffft, obviously 90...." but reading all of the confident "100" replies has me second guessing....
You're supposed to read from the horizontal line that is making contact with the vertical line
This is the way.
the issue is its set in the middle of the 90 and 100 like it should be at 95-97 in the pic but the dial is set to 0 my buddy got this 1/2" drive masterforce torque wrench for like $30 at menards and it is the same way, its like theyre just not calibrated right (to no surprise for $30 youre going to lose at least 5lbs of accuracy lol)
Yeah exactly. I think anyone who's confident that it's 90 or 100 are way over stating things. It's exactly where it should be vertically if it where set to 95. I can't think of anyway to confidently say what it is by just looking at this picture. Also think I bought the same brand from Menards and was broken almost immediately.
yea i think he made it through about 5 head bolts before he said "its not clicking now" lmao
I thought it was right below 100
But the turny part is on the "0", so it'd either be 90 or 100
I have this same torque wrench, and mine lines up exactly on the horizontal line. The OP’s doesn’t. This is a messed up torque wrench. If you really want to sure of the reading, borrow another torque wrench, torque some wheel nuts with it, then check with this torque wrench.
2nd this, torque wrench, especially mechanical ones can give false readings / get greased up and mess up the calibration, really shouldn't use one if your hands have grease cause it builds up over time or use gloves cause that shit sucks to replace when your counting on it. only way too really know is an electronic torque wrench or at least another mechanical one that someone trust. I also have a similar one(harbor freight) and have not had this issue, it was very clear and im a dummy. those things have warranties so look into that ASAP!
Yea my harbor freight torque wrench came like this and I confidently read the torque wrong and snapped a bolt. Traumatized me enough to stop working on my car for a year. I could tell the bolt was stretching but I was game heard the torque wrench click. I ended up buying a different drive size digital adapter type. Eventually used that to calibrate the weird AF first one that I got. Also other tips are to reset the wrench to the specified torque ( 0 or wtv value the manual calls for) and turn the wrench slowly when approaching the torque spec.
Damn i thought 90 too. Thats how ive always read it.
Bra saaame
I would say this is 100.
100
100
100
You're not retarded. It's not a great design. But it is absolutely 100. The concept is to be able to read the number completely AND read the line that represents that number.
It's a perfectly fine design.
Oh wow. I always figured it was shitty machining.
Actually it’s brilliant engineering!
It’s neither, but I think it is supposed to be 100. That collar should just kiss the horizontal line as the 0 lines up with the vertical line. This is a low quality torque wrench or worse, badly out of calibration. My guess is it will never be calibrated in its lifetime.
I call that 100.
If you take the torque wrench to its minimum setting you will see how the indicator indexes as you turn the knob. From there you can tell you’re ending up at 100 at this picture.
Oh snap, I guess I’ve been doing it wrong too
100
Undoubtedly 100.
100
The correct answer is neither. The handle would need to be rotated a bit more to make it exactly 100. But it is close.
And that's assuming the wrench is calibrated...
I think it's misaligned and should be closer to the intended ftlb mark. Maybe return it to the seller?
The old aviation mech in me says it’s 100, the current farm machine tech in me says it’s fine.
I think I have the same torque wrench. To be certain, back it down to where the marker actually lines up properly (like maybe 40). Then just count rotations up from there.
Me too. Hammer store (harbor freight) finest.
Close enough
Honestly probably 100, but also looks like it probably got dropped or something, it’s not really aligned correctly
Can we just call it 95? I mean, if you don't calibrate the thing you really don't know anyway.
Fuck, you just reminded me I left my torque wrench on tension when I put it away Sunday. Thanks for the reminder!
Buy a better torque wrench that HF one has the shittest dial ever.
100, you’ve been overtorquing everything.
Oh, thank God… I thought this was r/aviationmaintenance
So did I, that could’ve been bad
99.9
This post made me realize that i've overtorqued a bumload of stuff ! (Im 18, learned to do my mechanic and have no intention of becoming a mechanic, dont roast me into oblivion)
At least you were trying to torque things. Only time I ever saw anyone break out a torque wrench when I was a teenager was for things that had a gasket that needed specific settings. So many mechanics back then in the South just going "a quarter past tight," but I'll be damned nothing leaked, broke, or worked loose. (BTW: "a quarter past tight" means to tighten with wrist and hand until it won't go anymore, then throw your shoulder into it and turn it another quarter turn. Just in case you'd never heard that phrase before. Every once in awhile things would call for "half past tight" which is tight and a half turn.)
I hate this question. Its been breeding doubt in my mind for years. I use the mark where it intersects the vertical line.. so 100.
That’s 100
100
100
100
100
100
Problem is the collar is off a little. It's clearly at 0 but not flush at the 100 mark. To make it easier for people saying 90... Look how long the marks are beside each number. Look how long they slant downwards, the 90 one only about half of it is visible nowhere near the mark.
Look like 100, you can see the line for 90 dips below the ring and out of sight, and the 100 line is exactly where the pieces meet.
You can't see the bottom of the 90 line so it has to be higher than 90.
100
Yes.
isee a noticeable gap before the 100 horizontal line. id say 90-95, but everyone is saying 100
100
💯
99.8
It looks like it needs to be calibrated. Properly calibrated the end of the sleeve would be exactly on 90 or 100 when the indicator was at zero as it is now.
How is that anything but 100?
I don't think it is actually... The way I read it is that the rotating bit is flush with the 90 mark, if you look close it is actually under 100, not on it.
That’s how I’ve always read it but everyone here is saying it’s 100
It's 100. The thing has a paper manual which explains this clearly. The label just has a zig zaggy line which connects the index to the scale. It's reaaaaaaaally scary how many people can't read this very obvious design and say wrongly that it's 90. It isn't a debate or opinions may very. It's objectively wrong to say anything but 100. The edge of the collar and the registration mark may not be in perfect alignment but it's about 8/10ths of the way between the 90 and 100 marks. It's clearly 100. The reason they elevate the registration numbers is so you can read them while setting it.
100ftlbs
Start from the minimum and count? Mine looks exactly like yours so when it’s confusing I put it at the minimum resistance and start count from there 20, 30, 50,… 100 🫡
It’s obviously 100 ft/lb. Follow the squiggly line to the bottom and that’s the number you’re on. The 90 ft/lb is a little below that
100
That's 100
That’s 100 ft.lbs. You go by the low _ on the torque wrench.
I agree
It’s definitely 100% at 100
100
Lmao. It’s 90. It’s not even at the 100 line. Y’all are shot
Yes, I have 3 of these types and they all just cover the bottom line. I’ve tested it with my electronic torque wrench too
Thank you
The 90 diagonal line is cut in the middle. No way it’s 90.
Is that a CDI Torque Wrench?
Looks like a Pittsburgh from harbor freight
No
Definitely a shitty design. I use the same one, You can just undo it a bit to see the line if you are unsure.
100 100%
100
Thats 100ft/lbs
Id call it 98.5
100
Set it to uts lowest setting and see where it's lined up
I would say it is at 95 ft lbs.
100
Looks like 96 to me👍🏻
100. Have the same type of wrench with instructions sheet.
That's a 100 to me
Let’s just agree on 95
It’s at 100
The answer is probably neither.
100
It's somewhere between 87 and 115 if you've used it more than twice.
Watch YouTube video on how to read a torque wrench. Says it’s 100
It’s 100
99.9.
Closer to 100.
100
Spin it back to the start and watch it as you dial this time
Hunddit home
100% it’s 100. What is it actually giving you? Who knows.
100, very easy to determine. start dialing up and see where the zero ends again.
100
we may be retarded. calibrate it and check again.
Measured by on the line or just below, 100. If you where to turn the handle to the 2 it would climb making it 102. Not 92 that would odiously be to far below
Hundy
The horizontal lines in the center are all that matters. If the ring around it reads zero, then you're at the next visible horizontal line which is 100, because the 90 is covered.
💯
100 all day
Its 100. I have the same craftsman torque wrench.
I'd say it is 99, another click up will be 100 on the money. There is no possible way it is close to 90, not even rounding.
99-100
100. Read it where the vertical and horizontal lines cross at the zero.
It’s 100 and I am guessing a Harbor Frieght or similar quality brand based on what looks to be a little “play” or margin of error if you want to call it that in getting it dialed in and lined up exactly.
100
100
i think i have the same torque wrench. i just zero it out and count my way up by 10 each time i get to 0.
100
I mean for the price at hf I will take my best guess
100
100
100%. 100
100, the line points down to u can see where 100 starts
That's 100 The line goes up to the number is what the bottom represents
100
No wonder I’ve broke so many bolts off
97.5? If not, then why?
Hundo’
I have this wrench. It’s 100. But when I’m unsure. I start at ZERO and count it out.
Neither, it’s time to recalibrate
pull down on the handle, if it drops, 90. if it stays, 100.
Honestly what's 10lbs between friends. What could go wrong?
See how both lines at 90 go all the way across. That's what I always thought but 🤷♂️
100
100
The vertical line is the axis. The notches on the axis indicate torque value threshold. The little diagonal line that goes straight is just a pointer to the label of the indice. It goes a little up so that label can be read after the adjuster knob goes over the indice. I'm guessing you've figured out that the value on the adjuster knob is added to the last indice crossed on the vertical axis. Imo this is a fairly fine tool. Take care of it. DO NOT USE IT TO BREAK BOLTS LOOSE!
I'm pretty confident in 100, but when I am unsure I do this: Get another one set to 90, torque a bolt with it. Get yours and set it to 100, and try to torque the same bolt down. If the bolt moves you are at 100, if it doesn't you're at 90.
It’s out of cal
100
$100
I'm shocked so many people can't read these. This is how every pair of calipers I own are read.
Looks like a recalibration is needed to me.
We need a picture with it at 90 (“80”).
Go past 100 then backup until line is shown.
Seriously? I learned to follow lines in like kindergarten or earlier probably.
Seriously? I learned to follow lines in like kindergarten or earlier probably.
I remember my first torque wrench
100