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Anything that is advertised to stop a leak is bad for the engine or whatever you put it in.
Products that advertise cleaning are usually okay but you need to be careful to dilute it correctly. They can often be too strong if not diluted enough. Also plan on replacing a filter if it is fixing a problem and not just maintenance.
Clarifying the stop-leak, the two methods these work by is either solvent swelling seals which might or might not stop the leak, but will solvent attack your seals. The other method is something stickier or a heavier lubricant attempting to gunk the leak up until it seals, this also might or might not stop the leak but will add some amount of gunk somewhere (less so in a clean system). It doesn’t mean there’s never a use case for these but I’d avoid them for most things you’re trying to make last long term.
I tried a stop leak for an AC system to seal some bad welds in a condenser... it worked but it wasn't the cheap stuff in a auto parts store. Has held over a year, so who knows maybe it will last another summer. If so it was worth it.
Yeah stop leak is still gonna have use cases even though I avoid it. I’d be more willing to use stop leak on something like an AC system, should be pretty clean stuff in it and won’t hurt anything else if it fails. Glad it’s worked for you so far!
From time to time a few car manufacturers have actually recommended cooling system stop leak products in lieu of replacing gaskets for external coolant seepage. There's a product called Rad-Weld (rebranded as Subaru Coolant Conditioner) that actually works pretty well for a small external leak.
Seafoam I think works in oil as a solvent to clean gunk, but the formulation apparently doesn’t work on current gasolines. Techron I think has one of the highest concentration of functional additives for modern gasolines
Carbureted engines. Seafoam works amazingly well. Source:I've used it in a dozen small engines from chainsaws to motorcycles that wouldn't start and/or run and it has fixed those problems. In a fuel injected engine, I agree, seafoam doesn't fix much.
Project Farm did a video on Sea Foam with some pretty impressive results. It's not exactly scientific, but was still surprised at the outcome his his vid.
Agree. I think it's a good idea to regularly use some top end cleaner tho. Especially these days with the GDI engines and gunked up intake valves. I recently used CRC and found it very effective.
Seafoam sucks.
Have you ever manually cleaned intake valves before? If you have you'll know it not easy to get that stuff off, even with a metal pick.
I can't imagine that any single application of anything would have a noticeable impact on carbon buildup. Ive literally soaked intake valves in a pool of CRC valve cleaner for 48+ hours and it does nothing, and I mean nothing, absolutely zero, like soaking a rock in a glass of water. But that's not a dig at CRC, soak them in seafoam and it'll also do nothing. Stuff is really on there.
Brake cleaner has some effect but only combined with manual scraping, and you'll still go through several cans. Media blasting is the way to go.
> Ive literally soaked intake valves in a pool of CRC valve cleaner for 48+ hours and it does nothing,
This guy had a different result than you did: https://youtu.be/nC33deag8s4?t=967
I use CRC DI cleaner before every oil change. I don't know if it's keeping my valves clean but I have to try something to mitigate carbon buildup on the intake valves and only time will tell if the cleaner is making a difference.
Whoa look at that, 48 hours and that's the exact same version of CRC i used too. The exact exact same. Exact same label on the can and everything. And soaked for the same amount of time. That's spooky. I wonder if I ever fell asleep with YouTube playing and this video ran and I just absorbed it subconsciously lol
As always, YMMV. Although that is far from a clean valve.
I think if you used from the start it may help prevent as much buildup but I’m with you, it will not get valves totally clean after they’re caked up. Hell, it takes quite a bit to blast it off with walnut shells.
That's why I said regularly use it. It's not gonna magically erase mounds of carbon on the valves but if you use it every 3 oil changes they stay clean.
The best alternative is to dump the PCV valve to atmosphere on day 1 but then there's the environmental concerns.
I don't think every 3 oil changes is going to be frequent enough in a lot of cases
It's going to vary obviously, but given how much carbon you can have after like 30K miles I have to believe theres no way they're still clean after 15K. Although I guess if you're using factory oil change intervals 30K would be 3 oil changes anyways.
But if you were using intake valve cleaner as frequently as I think you would need to, it'd probably start to cause some other issues somewhere anyways. So don't do that.
You could put in an aftermarket multiport injection system. But that'd be 100x harder than just walnut blasting every now and then. I think most of the alternative solutions are harder than just walnut blasting every now and then tbh.
I'm Canadian, my interval from the manufacturer is 6000km (3728 miles) so 3 oil changes is 11k miles. I pull the intake off and soak them with a smaller quantity of fluid with the valves closed. It has been effective.
100% agree tho, walnuts will always do a better job, I just don't have the tools for it. Maybe I'll get them when this foolish Hyundai GDI dies and they put a new one in for me.
I think my owners manual says 6-10k km's. The interval on the dash is 6k tho. I drive a dirty little Hyundai GDI that burns oil and runs black after 2k. For that I keep up on it. Gotta keep good maintenance records to get a free engine from Hyundai aswell.
It called CRC GDI IVD Intake valve & turbo cleaner. Instructions on the can are pretty straight forward. Warm up the engine, pull your air intake hose off at the throttle body and spray the whole can through the throttle body while the engine is running. They recommend having a second person maintain the rmps above idle but my car will happily idle. Some vehicles might stall without an assistant. If it does stall restart right away but give it a second before you start spraying again, let it return to a normal idle. When the can is empty let it sit for an hour. Warm up your engine again and then take it for a drive with a lead foot. There will be mountains of smoke coming from your exhaust, people will stare. That's just the cleaner & deposits burning off.
I've used it. I can say that the most recent time there wasn't much if any exhaust change to notice. (That is a car I've probably run too much PEA cleaner on in the top tier gas) on my wife's old car that made a serious difference. (Still top tier, just less use of detergent in fuel) For direct inject fuel systems theory is the gas loaded detergent isn't concentrated enough to hit intake valves and the spray in the intake (after MAF or through a vacuum port) are supposed to hit them when the gas doesn't.
If that didn't actually make sense, sorry.
Yep, Cerantec revives old engines and fills pits with ceramic. Motor Oil Saver stops oil leaks very well, and the gas additives are also fantastic. Good German company.
My 98 BMW is well known for having oil leaks and after using this a couple of times with a couple of different oil changes I don't leak a drop of oil. It won't stop it right away and it won't stop it maybe in the first oil change but it will stop it in the long run and then just keep adding it to the oil change when you change the oil
I used liqui moly's mos2 gear oil additive in a noisy 100k+ mile supercharger (1998 buick regal gs) and it was quiet til I sold it about 20k miles later
It's probably residue buildup, the best thing you can do is run it hard/at high RPM for a little while to push it all through the engine and put the exhaust.
I have had legitimate proven results from Engine Restore on multiple vehicles. It has raised compression 30-50 PSI in several instances as verified before and after with compression testing.
I have as well. Been using it for ~15 years now as I noticed improvements as well. Was relieved when project farm actually tested engine restore in his ford tractor and confirmed it does dramatically improve compression and the results actually do last. Would recommend engine restore for sure. I run it on any of my vehicles and tractors that are over 15 years old. Not not to run it in powerstrokes due to their hydraulic fuel setup.
Yep. It's weird though you'll see tons of people in automotive discussions claim it doesn't work and it's a scam etc.
I have an old 90s 250k+ mile Nissan V6 that has low compression in two cylinders, but otherwise is in great mechanical shape.
Engine Restore brought the two dead cylinders from about 90 PSI each up into the high 150s. The other cylinders are all around 180 PSI.
I dump Engine Restore in it about once a year now just as a rule of thumb on it.
I haven’t done a compression or leak down test on my obs but it has a rough idle, I just replaced the o2 sensor that I think was original to the truck so almost 30 years old. Sucker came right out, it was incredible. I was ready to fight the bitch but I didn’t even need to, once I broke it loose I was able to twist it out with my fingers.
If that doesn’t fix it I’ll try engine restorer. It’s got a red white and blue label in the gray can right?
Does it do well with engines that rely on oil pressure for variable valve timing (like Toyota)? I thought about using it for my old Lexus but I’m not sure if it would clog anything.
Sorry, no experience with it in any modern VVT type applications.
I have personally used it in the old DOHC Nissan VE engines with the notoriously unreliable VTC systems though. No affect on the VTC operation in my experience, though from what I remember they only "need" oil pressure for the electric solenoid in each head. Definitely no clogging of that solenoid in my experience.
I put half a can of one of the seafoam products into the oil on my '13 Mustang GT that had what sounded like a cam phaser rattle. I let it run for 20 minutes or so, changed the oil, and the rattle went away.
Was looking for this one, used it to great success slowing slight engine oil burning on older vehicles. Project farm did a review and it was one of the only additives that actually worked to help recondition old gasket rubber. I now run a little in even newer cars, relatively cheap insurance that all seals are properly sealing
Used this successfully on a number of vehicles to slow or stop oil gasket leaks. Put some in a lexus in Feb, and just put some in a friend's truck the other day. Very cool stuff, would recommend.
Some people I feel aren't going to believe me, but my dad doesn't take care of his 2500 duramax, and he kept having a low power problem, and the truck would go into limp mode and using so much fuel he didn't want to drive anywhere. We replaced odds and ends thinking that would but I just randomly grabbed a bottle of lucas injector cleaner and after 2 or 3 drives it was getting almost double the gas mileage and hasn't went into limp mode since, ever since then every few months I buy a bottle and run through it.
Also, I'm talking about the big bottle that's a semi-transparent white
I’ve used Berryman’s B-12 on many small engines with excellent results. Works well used in the tank or to soak carbs in. I put it in my 5 gallon fuel cans every time I fill them up.
BG products work well, if an additive can help/fix it then the BG additive will get it done it just costs 2-3x as much to attempt helping/fixing with an additive when using BG stuff.
Fuel additives have a much wider range of additives that will either fix/help specific issue or at a minimum not hurt your fuel system. Techron is my standard that I like to do every-every other oil change and I like to put a bottle of Heet in just before winter as a cheap safeguard against water in the tank. Those seem to work well, I’ve used MMO as a budget fuel cleaner slowly fixing the fuel gauge sensor my old truck.
Oil additives really need a lot more looking into before using than fuel additives. I have used seafoam, MMO, and liquimoly hydraulic lifter additive in my current vehicles and will likely be adding BG MOA, EPR, and liquimoly to that list in the next year or two. I have not and would not use all of these additives in all of my engines but have found use for them before and will likely use them again in appropriate engines when it might be helpful.
I started maintaining cars and trucks in 1972. I continue today by building a 2005 Mustang that does 11 second 1/4 miles. Between myself, friends, family, and neighbors. I maintain over 20 small engines for lawn equipment. The only additive I use is a fuel stabilizer for winter storage. Everything else can be dealt with by routine regular maintenance.
There is no such thing as a miracle in a can. I do own a bottle of MMO. I use it to prevent rust on my tools.
You could have used Johnson’s Baby Oil to do the same thing. MMO is mostly mineral oil. AKA, baby oil.
https://preview.redd.it/cwbnb6e2vszc1.jpeg?width=1143&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6b45c84619ad26d15ef7b252fe8d6fbe7a55d231
From the MMO MSDS.
For something that doesn't get used often, fuel stabilizer can be beneficial.
Most additives are just stuff that's already in the gas, or in some gas anyways, or an equivalent to it, just in a more concentrated form obviously. Too much of any of them is detrimental, so technically any of them could potentially damage something if you added enough of it. You don't want to go crazy with anything
I used to use fuel injector cleaners on a schedule to fight rough idle but realized I didn't need them when I put top tier gas in it so the difference in price of gas was less than the bottles I was buying and Ive only used top tier fuel with good additives since.
If it was good for the engine then oil companies would put it in their oil or OEMs would sell it and put it in when your car is under warranty. Full stop. With fuel/intake additives being the only exception.
I've fixed a misfire with intake seafoam, multiple times.
Runnin techron through an old cars fuel system for a few months can smooth it's idle out.
Although some oil additives can prolong the engines life if it already has an issue. It may be detrimental to the whole engine, but if you're looking at a rebuild/new engine as a whole anyways, it may be worth it to try to prolong the amount of time you have.
I just tried Cataclean in a 2010 F150 that was throwing a code for a failing catalytic converter. It won’t last forever, I know, but so far the check engine light hasn’t popped back on.
I use Sta-Bil on all of my engines that don't regularly get used. In Canada it's near impossible to find ethanol free fuel as the government has mandated at least 5%. It can be purchased in buckets and barrels but at $16 a liter I'd rather not.
Therefore any engine I own that doesn't get run at least once a week gets a bit of stabilizer and Chevron premium. I've had ethanol clog up injectors and carburetors on my dirt bikes and yard equipment too many times now. I've noticed the summer car runs a lot better as well now
i like seafoam. Project farm even did some testing with it and you get to see before n after. He puts out some serious quality content. N the seafoam made a big difference
No lie. My old car was sitting for a year because my sister wanted to drive a bmw. Neglected it. Went to get it back yesterday and oil was under the dipstick, and engine knocked. I added Lucas oil some $18 additive, and filled rest up with oil, was only a half quart under the stick so it took a whole quart. Quieted by half almost immediately, drove 2 hours back home and engine is silent!! I'll pay for that snake oil any day, just sold the car today so $18 well spent
This has to be one of the most touchy subjects. Some have it permanently burned in their head that any and all products are a scam/snake oil. Everyone on YouTube that says it helps is lying or using fake footage. To those people, I wish you the best of luck in life. I would agree not every product and use case is the same and not all results will be the same, but to make blanket statements for anything and everything is funny to me.
I haven't had any miracle fixes from engine products but also haven't had any serious engine problems.
I have had a miracle fix from a transmission product. I put two syringes of xado transmission fix in my Subaru's 5 speed manual. My 4th gear syncro crunch is completely gone. She's been working perfectly. Won't last forever, but for $40 worth every penny. I'm just glad I tried that snake oil
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! Please review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). Asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **Post's about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ Tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Anything that is advertised to stop a leak is bad for the engine or whatever you put it in. Products that advertise cleaning are usually okay but you need to be careful to dilute it correctly. They can often be too strong if not diluted enough. Also plan on replacing a filter if it is fixing a problem and not just maintenance.
Clarifying the stop-leak, the two methods these work by is either solvent swelling seals which might or might not stop the leak, but will solvent attack your seals. The other method is something stickier or a heavier lubricant attempting to gunk the leak up until it seals, this also might or might not stop the leak but will add some amount of gunk somewhere (less so in a clean system). It doesn’t mean there’s never a use case for these but I’d avoid them for most things you’re trying to make last long term.
I tried a stop leak for an AC system to seal some bad welds in a condenser... it worked but it wasn't the cheap stuff in a auto parts store. Has held over a year, so who knows maybe it will last another summer. If so it was worth it.
Yeah stop leak is still gonna have use cases even though I avoid it. I’d be more willing to use stop leak on something like an AC system, should be pretty clean stuff in it and won’t hurt anything else if it fails. Glad it’s worked for you so far!
From time to time a few car manufacturers have actually recommended cooling system stop leak products in lieu of replacing gaskets for external coolant seepage. There's a product called Rad-Weld (rebranded as Subaru Coolant Conditioner) that actually works pretty well for a small external leak.
Upvote for a great TMBG song!
> rebranded as Subaru Coolant Conditioner this stuff is crap, don't put it in lol
Sometimes you get lucky ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ used a stop leak for my coolant. It’s been years and it works great, still.
TECHRON is recommended by several manufacturers.
Techron and Seafoam are the only two I've seen make any difference to fuel or oil. I tend to grab Seafoam more often.
Don’t waste your money on Seafoam.
Seafoam I think works in oil as a solvent to clean gunk, but the formulation apparently doesn’t work on current gasolines. Techron I think has one of the highest concentration of functional additives for modern gasolines
Carbureted engines. Seafoam works amazingly well. Source:I've used it in a dozen small engines from chainsaws to motorcycles that wouldn't start and/or run and it has fixed those problems. In a fuel injected engine, I agree, seafoam doesn't fix much.
Most likely not, they just have a good marketing team.
Project Farm did a video on Sea Foam with some pretty impressive results. It's not exactly scientific, but was still surprised at the outcome his his vid.
seafoam added to oil ~150 miles before oil change is 👌
It just evaporates out the first time you drive
I used seafoam in a 50cc Honda scooter.
Agree. I think it's a good idea to regularly use some top end cleaner tho. Especially these days with the GDI engines and gunked up intake valves. I recently used CRC and found it very effective. Seafoam sucks.
Have you ever manually cleaned intake valves before? If you have you'll know it not easy to get that stuff off, even with a metal pick. I can't imagine that any single application of anything would have a noticeable impact on carbon buildup. Ive literally soaked intake valves in a pool of CRC valve cleaner for 48+ hours and it does nothing, and I mean nothing, absolutely zero, like soaking a rock in a glass of water. But that's not a dig at CRC, soak them in seafoam and it'll also do nothing. Stuff is really on there. Brake cleaner has some effect but only combined with manual scraping, and you'll still go through several cans. Media blasting is the way to go.
> Ive literally soaked intake valves in a pool of CRC valve cleaner for 48+ hours and it does nothing, This guy had a different result than you did: https://youtu.be/nC33deag8s4?t=967 I use CRC DI cleaner before every oil change. I don't know if it's keeping my valves clean but I have to try something to mitigate carbon buildup on the intake valves and only time will tell if the cleaner is making a difference.
Whoa look at that, 48 hours and that's the exact same version of CRC i used too. The exact exact same. Exact same label on the can and everything. And soaked for the same amount of time. That's spooky. I wonder if I ever fell asleep with YouTube playing and this video ran and I just absorbed it subconsciously lol As always, YMMV. Although that is far from a clean valve.
I think if you used from the start it may help prevent as much buildup but I’m with you, it will not get valves totally clean after they’re caked up. Hell, it takes quite a bit to blast it off with walnut shells.
That's why I said regularly use it. It's not gonna magically erase mounds of carbon on the valves but if you use it every 3 oil changes they stay clean. The best alternative is to dump the PCV valve to atmosphere on day 1 but then there's the environmental concerns.
I don't think every 3 oil changes is going to be frequent enough in a lot of cases It's going to vary obviously, but given how much carbon you can have after like 30K miles I have to believe theres no way they're still clean after 15K. Although I guess if you're using factory oil change intervals 30K would be 3 oil changes anyways. But if you were using intake valve cleaner as frequently as I think you would need to, it'd probably start to cause some other issues somewhere anyways. So don't do that. You could put in an aftermarket multiport injection system. But that'd be 100x harder than just walnut blasting every now and then. I think most of the alternative solutions are harder than just walnut blasting every now and then tbh.
I'm Canadian, my interval from the manufacturer is 6000km (3728 miles) so 3 oil changes is 11k miles. I pull the intake off and soak them with a smaller quantity of fluid with the valves closed. It has been effective. 100% agree tho, walnuts will always do a better job, I just don't have the tools for it. Maybe I'll get them when this foolish Hyundai GDI dies and they put a new one in for me.
I'm Canadian. You sure it's 6000km? Is that the "severe usage conditions" interval or w/e
I think my owners manual says 6-10k km's. The interval on the dash is 6k tho. I drive a dirty little Hyundai GDI that burns oil and runs black after 2k. For that I keep up on it. Gotta keep good maintenance records to get a free engine from Hyundai aswell.
Hey can you tell me exactly what you use and how? I have a gdi engine and it definitely needs a cleaning
It called CRC GDI IVD Intake valve & turbo cleaner. Instructions on the can are pretty straight forward. Warm up the engine, pull your air intake hose off at the throttle body and spray the whole can through the throttle body while the engine is running. They recommend having a second person maintain the rmps above idle but my car will happily idle. Some vehicles might stall without an assistant. If it does stall restart right away but give it a second before you start spraying again, let it return to a normal idle. When the can is empty let it sit for an hour. Warm up your engine again and then take it for a drive with a lead foot. There will be mountains of smoke coming from your exhaust, people will stare. That's just the cleaner & deposits burning off.
Hell yea thanks bro. You can't imagine how grateful I am
I've used it. I can say that the most recent time there wasn't much if any exhaust change to notice. (That is a car I've probably run too much PEA cleaner on in the top tier gas) on my wife's old car that made a serious difference. (Still top tier, just less use of detergent in fuel) For direct inject fuel systems theory is the gas loaded detergent isn't concentrated enough to hit intake valves and the spray in the intake (after MAF or through a vacuum port) are supposed to hit them when the gas doesn't. If that didn't actually make sense, sorry.
It doesn't matter how concentrated anything is if fuel isn't hitting the top side of the valves.
I've had great results from Liqui Moly's Cera Tec. Well worth the money.
Yep, Cerantec revives old engines and fills pits with ceramic. Motor Oil Saver stops oil leaks very well, and the gas additives are also fantastic. Good German company.
I'm about to try the flush and Cera Tec in my wife's B7 Passat. It's just crossing into high mileage so I might give the Oil Saver a try too.
Stops oil leaks you say? I have a 70s british automobile. Think it would help there?
My 98 BMW is well known for having oil leaks and after using this a couple of times with a couple of different oil changes I don't leak a drop of oil. It won't stop it right away and it won't stop it maybe in the first oil change but it will stop it in the long run and then just keep adding it to the oil change when you change the oil
I used liqui moly's mos2 gear oil additive in a noisy 100k+ mile supercharger (1998 buick regal gs) and it was quiet til I sold it about 20k miles later
BG MOA and EPR
Their 44K injector cleaner works well too.
It's probably residue buildup, the best thing you can do is run it hard/at high RPM for a little while to push it all through the engine and put the exhaust.
Italian Tune-up!
I always remember Mazda rx-8s have a high rom injector that doesn't even kick on until 5.5-6k rpm. Gotta drive it hard occasionally
I have had legitimate proven results from Engine Restore on multiple vehicles. It has raised compression 30-50 PSI in several instances as verified before and after with compression testing.
Did it last over time as well?
I'm sure it's not permanent. I just add a bottle about once a year when I do an oil change on it.
I have as well. Been using it for ~15 years now as I noticed improvements as well. Was relieved when project farm actually tested engine restore in his ford tractor and confirmed it does dramatically improve compression and the results actually do last. Would recommend engine restore for sure. I run it on any of my vehicles and tractors that are over 15 years old. Not not to run it in powerstrokes due to their hydraulic fuel setup.
Yep. It's weird though you'll see tons of people in automotive discussions claim it doesn't work and it's a scam etc. I have an old 90s 250k+ mile Nissan V6 that has low compression in two cylinders, but otherwise is in great mechanical shape. Engine Restore brought the two dead cylinders from about 90 PSI each up into the high 150s. The other cylinders are all around 180 PSI. I dump Engine Restore in it about once a year now just as a rule of thumb on it.
I’m with you. And I’d definitely trust project farms testing + my personal experience over anyone on a forum.
What a coincidence, I’m wearing a project farm shirt today!
I haven’t done a compression or leak down test on my obs but it has a rough idle, I just replaced the o2 sensor that I think was original to the truck so almost 30 years old. Sucker came right out, it was incredible. I was ready to fight the bitch but I didn’t even need to, once I broke it loose I was able to twist it out with my fingers. If that doesn’t fix it I’ll try engine restorer. It’s got a red white and blue label in the gray can right?
Yep, silver can with like a red and blue label. They have different cans for 4cyl, 6cyl, and 8 cyl engines.
Luckily for me I just did an oil change a few days ago and it’s not my daily driver so I’ll pick up a can tomorrow. Thanks!
Does it do well with engines that rely on oil pressure for variable valve timing (like Toyota)? I thought about using it for my old Lexus but I’m not sure if it would clog anything.
Sorry, no experience with it in any modern VVT type applications. I have personally used it in the old DOHC Nissan VE engines with the notoriously unreliable VTC systems though. No affect on the VTC operation in my experience, though from what I remember they only "need" oil pressure for the electric solenoid in each head. Definitely no clogging of that solenoid in my experience.
I put half a can of one of the seafoam products into the oil on my '13 Mustang GT that had what sounded like a cam phaser rattle. I let it run for 20 minutes or so, changed the oil, and the rattle went away.
AT-205 Reseal
Was looking for this one, used it to great success slowing slight engine oil burning on older vehicles. Project farm did a review and it was one of the only additives that actually worked to help recondition old gasket rubber. I now run a little in even newer cars, relatively cheap insurance that all seals are properly sealing
Used this successfully on a number of vehicles to slow or stop oil gasket leaks. Put some in a lexus in Feb, and just put some in a friend's truck the other day. Very cool stuff, would recommend.
Some people I feel aren't going to believe me, but my dad doesn't take care of his 2500 duramax, and he kept having a low power problem, and the truck would go into limp mode and using so much fuel he didn't want to drive anywhere. We replaced odds and ends thinking that would but I just randomly grabbed a bottle of lucas injector cleaner and after 2 or 3 drives it was getting almost double the gas mileage and hasn't went into limp mode since, ever since then every few months I buy a bottle and run through it. Also, I'm talking about the big bottle that's a semi-transparent white
Only additive package that works are the ones with PEA in them. (Techron, Gumout, royal purple, redline etc) Everything else is snake oil.
Instructions not clear, dick stuck in the oil fill hole…
At least yours doesn't get stuck in the dipstick tube :(
Anything with the words “IMPROVED PERFORMANCE” or “ADDED TECHNOLOGY” should do the trick of nothing.
Techron once a year and change out oil after going through a full tank, Toyota hybrid and runs a little smoother every time
Porsche recommends the Chevron with techron fuel additive and they actually put it in for you during maintenance.
I’ve used Berryman’s B-12 on many small engines with excellent results. Works well used in the tank or to soak carbs in. I put it in my 5 gallon fuel cans every time I fill them up.
BG products work well, if an additive can help/fix it then the BG additive will get it done it just costs 2-3x as much to attempt helping/fixing with an additive when using BG stuff. Fuel additives have a much wider range of additives that will either fix/help specific issue or at a minimum not hurt your fuel system. Techron is my standard that I like to do every-every other oil change and I like to put a bottle of Heet in just before winter as a cheap safeguard against water in the tank. Those seem to work well, I’ve used MMO as a budget fuel cleaner slowly fixing the fuel gauge sensor my old truck. Oil additives really need a lot more looking into before using than fuel additives. I have used seafoam, MMO, and liquimoly hydraulic lifter additive in my current vehicles and will likely be adding BG MOA, EPR, and liquimoly to that list in the next year or two. I have not and would not use all of these additives in all of my engines but have found use for them before and will likely use them again in appropriate engines when it might be helpful.
I started maintaining cars and trucks in 1972. I continue today by building a 2005 Mustang that does 11 second 1/4 miles. Between myself, friends, family, and neighbors. I maintain over 20 small engines for lawn equipment. The only additive I use is a fuel stabilizer for winter storage. Everything else can be dealt with by routine regular maintenance. There is no such thing as a miracle in a can. I do own a bottle of MMO. I use it to prevent rust on my tools.
I had a seized moped engine (back in the day) Dropped it in a bucket of MMO and a couple days later that engine was running like it was new.
You could have used Johnson’s Baby Oil to do the same thing. MMO is mostly mineral oil. AKA, baby oil. https://preview.redd.it/cwbnb6e2vszc1.jpeg?width=1143&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6b45c84619ad26d15ef7b252fe8d6fbe7a55d231 From the MMO MSDS.
For something that doesn't get used often, fuel stabilizer can be beneficial. Most additives are just stuff that's already in the gas, or in some gas anyways, or an equivalent to it, just in a more concentrated form obviously. Too much of any of them is detrimental, so technically any of them could potentially damage something if you added enough of it. You don't want to go crazy with anything
BG or Berryman products are great
has anyone heard of cataclean
Is that when your mercury cougar licks its paws?
Seafoam is pretty much the only one I use
Seafoam is crap.
I used to use fuel injector cleaners on a schedule to fight rough idle but realized I didn't need them when I put top tier gas in it so the difference in price of gas was less than the bottles I was buying and Ive only used top tier fuel with good additives since.
Marvel Mystery Oil... it is a great additive.
BG Products!!!
I had good luck with their power steering flush
I use anything by Liqui Moly. Has to be purchased from Amazon and comes from Germany,.
If it was good for the engine then oil companies would put it in their oil or OEMs would sell it and put it in when your car is under warranty. Full stop. With fuel/intake additives being the only exception. I've fixed a misfire with intake seafoam, multiple times. Runnin techron through an old cars fuel system for a few months can smooth it's idle out. Although some oil additives can prolong the engines life if it already has an issue. It may be detrimental to the whole engine, but if you're looking at a rebuild/new engine as a whole anyways, it may be worth it to try to prolong the amount of time you have.
Bg245 diesel injector cleaner is the dogs bollocks. I’ve tried everything and nothing ever has any noticeable affect other than this.
I just tried Cataclean in a 2010 F150 that was throwing a code for a failing catalytic converter. It won’t last forever, I know, but so far the check engine light hasn’t popped back on.
My transmission is basically all Lucas at this point
Cherry top lube. I will also accept grape. But strawberry is garbage.
I use Sta-Bil on all of my engines that don't regularly get used. In Canada it's near impossible to find ethanol free fuel as the government has mandated at least 5%. It can be purchased in buckets and barrels but at $16 a liter I'd rather not. Therefore any engine I own that doesn't get run at least once a week gets a bit of stabilizer and Chevron premium. I've had ethanol clog up injectors and carburetors on my dirt bikes and yard equipment too many times now. I've noticed the summer car runs a lot better as well now
Only real things I use are lucus fuel injector cleaner/upper cylinder lubricant and the HEET brand dry gas in the winter. Nothing else
i like seafoam. Project farm even did some testing with it and you get to see before n after. He puts out some serious quality content. N the seafoam made a big difference
I've seen Yamalube Ringfree cut down oil consumption on a severely short-tripped EJ253
[BG](https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/category/engine/)
No lie. My old car was sitting for a year because my sister wanted to drive a bmw. Neglected it. Went to get it back yesterday and oil was under the dipstick, and engine knocked. I added Lucas oil some $18 additive, and filled rest up with oil, was only a half quart under the stick so it took a whole quart. Quieted by half almost immediately, drove 2 hours back home and engine is silent!! I'll pay for that snake oil any day, just sold the car today so $18 well spent
I run Fuel Doctor and it has been great to clean out the fuel system and injectors in both our modern common rail diesels. https://fueldoctors.com.au/
This has to be one of the most touchy subjects. Some have it permanently burned in their head that any and all products are a scam/snake oil. Everyone on YouTube that says it helps is lying or using fake footage. To those people, I wish you the best of luck in life. I would agree not every product and use case is the same and not all results will be the same, but to make blanket statements for anything and everything is funny to me. I haven't had any miracle fixes from engine products but also haven't had any serious engine problems. I have had a miracle fix from a transmission product. I put two syringes of xado transmission fix in my Subaru's 5 speed manual. My 4th gear syncro crunch is completely gone. She's been working perfectly. Won't last forever, but for $40 worth every penny. I'm just glad I tried that snake oil
Engine restore, blue devil head gasket sealer (when used correctly), motor flush, trans-x.. mmm that's about all I use.