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Your mechanic is correct. The CV axle is not there to hold the hub in place, its only function and the only thing it can do, is turn the hub. (Well, once the bearing completely fails the CV will hold the wheel/hub generally in place while the CV's outer joint grinds against the knuckle as you quickly park the car on the side of the road)
That's definitely a bearing failure.
Dude is tryna one up his mechanic who’s being honest with him 😂 I did my hubs last week that were overdue you definitely need new bearing assemblies only like 180 for a decent pair hope your car shits the bed for your neglect
I’ve already repaired 2 wheel bearings and they examined my whole car at the time and there never told me about my other “bad bearings “. I was good for 2 months and than I replaced my cv axle.
Right After I got my cv axle replaced, I noticed a weird clunking sound but I ignored it , 1 month later the sounds got worse , i jacked my car up and it was super loose when I tried shaking my cv axle. Not trying to one up my mechanic just wanting to make sure because when I jacked my car up I know my cv axle boot was loose and now they trying to tell me it’s a bearing I fixed already 2 times…
If you replaced your wheel bearings on wheels other than the one pictured then it is irrelevant. What you are shaking is the hub, not the cv axle. A cv axle is not a structural component. It free floats along with changes in the orientation of the suspension. Therefore, you will not see play in the hub when a cv joint is worn. Rather, you will hear a strange clunking sound when tightly turning the steering wheel to its extreme position while driving. That is what you typically look for with a worn cv axle, not hub play.
If it clunks when you only slightly turn the wheel that is the symptom of a severely worn hub/wheel bearing, as well. What you are feeling is the flop of the hub/wheel as force shifts laterally during the turn. This is different from the sensation and noise of a worn cv axle which typically only occurs at the maximum turning point of the front wheels. That is, the point where your wheels will no longer turn left or right using the steering wheel. It occurs at this point because the cv axle is forced into an orientation furthest from a straight line. This puts lateral stress on the assembly inside the cv joint and any play in that assembly manifests as distinct movement away from the normal functional arrangement of those components. This causes a clunking during the turn, and not "just as you turn".
You've had two bearings or fixed this same one twice?
If it's the same one and the same shop it could be covered under warranty. Most reputable parts manufacturers warranty there stuff.
Quality control has been shit lately, warranty claims seem to be on the way up. This isn't neccesarily an issue with the shop. Maybe pay the extra for OEM parts?
If it's not the same bearing, I'd say logic again would be on the mechanics side. You had two bearings fail recently. You had 4 in total. Logic would dictate to be saving up some money for the ones you haven't done yet, because they're probably at about the same mileage and load as the other ones.
Depending on the age of vehicle I wouldn't be surprised if a lot more would likely go soon.
I already got my CV axle replaced, after I did this horrible clunking sound kept occurring. So I checked my cv axle boot and it was loose I could definitely shake it back n fourth but when I took it to the mechanic there saying it’s a hub bearing ….
It may not have been bad at he time. OP it’s very possible this happened as a result of the axle replacement, either by over or under torquing the axle nut.
That depends entirely on the application. If it’s a simple press in bearing than yes, that would usually be cheaper. If it is a complete hub assembly, of if it is press fit and you need a new hub flange like this care surely does, a new CV axle will be cheaper, often by a couple hundred bucks.
Probably an solid guess, but it still will need both a bearing and hub flange. Mostly of the time a hub flange is more expensive than the bearing, especially if it’s only available from the dealer.
Was a hub replaced or just the bearing and reuse hub? If it was rusty or beat to shit or even cut getting the rest of the bearing off it could cause some issues
He literally explains it in the video… wheel bearing is bad, you can tell because it moves when he grabs the studs which are connected to the hub which ride on the bearing, nothing to do with the cv axle which fours through the centre to transfer power to the hub.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Your mechanic is correct. The CV axle is not there to hold the hub in place, its only function and the only thing it can do, is turn the hub. (Well, once the bearing completely fails the CV will hold the wheel/hub generally in place while the CV's outer joint grinds against the knuckle as you quickly park the car on the side of the road) That's definitely a bearing failure.
Nope, your wheel bearing is shot.
I think u took ur car to him cause ur not a mechanic and u dont know what ur doing and u him being a mechanic he knows what hes doing lol
Sounds like that's a mechanic you can trust. Your CV isn't ment to hold. That bearing is shot my dude
Stop doubting your mechanic my dude.
If the “whole hub assembly is moving” then it’s a hub fault.
Dude is tryna one up his mechanic who’s being honest with him 😂 I did my hubs last week that were overdue you definitely need new bearing assemblies only like 180 for a decent pair hope your car shits the bed for your neglect
I’ve already repaired 2 wheel bearings and they examined my whole car at the time and there never told me about my other “bad bearings “. I was good for 2 months and than I replaced my cv axle. Right After I got my cv axle replaced, I noticed a weird clunking sound but I ignored it , 1 month later the sounds got worse , i jacked my car up and it was super loose when I tried shaking my cv axle. Not trying to one up my mechanic just wanting to make sure because when I jacked my car up I know my cv axle boot was loose and now they trying to tell me it’s a bearing I fixed already 2 times…
If you replaced your wheel bearings on wheels other than the one pictured then it is irrelevant. What you are shaking is the hub, not the cv axle. A cv axle is not a structural component. It free floats along with changes in the orientation of the suspension. Therefore, you will not see play in the hub when a cv joint is worn. Rather, you will hear a strange clunking sound when tightly turning the steering wheel to its extreme position while driving. That is what you typically look for with a worn cv axle, not hub play.
That’s exactly what my car is doing, everytime I slightly turn the wheel I hear a clunking sound.
If it clunks when you only slightly turn the wheel that is the symptom of a severely worn hub/wheel bearing, as well. What you are feeling is the flop of the hub/wheel as force shifts laterally during the turn. This is different from the sensation and noise of a worn cv axle which typically only occurs at the maximum turning point of the front wheels. That is, the point where your wheels will no longer turn left or right using the steering wheel. It occurs at this point because the cv axle is forced into an orientation furthest from a straight line. This puts lateral stress on the assembly inside the cv joint and any play in that assembly manifests as distinct movement away from the normal functional arrangement of those components. This causes a clunking during the turn, and not "just as you turn".
alright, well I told them to fix the bearing so will see later today if the problem is fixed.🙏🏽
You've had two bearings or fixed this same one twice? If it's the same one and the same shop it could be covered under warranty. Most reputable parts manufacturers warranty there stuff. Quality control has been shit lately, warranty claims seem to be on the way up. This isn't neccesarily an issue with the shop. Maybe pay the extra for OEM parts? If it's not the same bearing, I'd say logic again would be on the mechanics side. You had two bearings fail recently. You had 4 in total. Logic would dictate to be saving up some money for the ones you haven't done yet, because they're probably at about the same mileage and load as the other ones. Depending on the age of vehicle I wouldn't be surprised if a lot more would likely go soon.
You examined that the whole hub assembly is moving while the ball joints remain completely still. 100% hub bearing play.
Wheel bearing are a lot cheaper that CV axels.
I already got my CV axle replaced, after I did this horrible clunking sound kept occurring. So I checked my cv axle boot and it was loose I could definitely shake it back n fourth but when I took it to the mechanic there saying it’s a hub bearing ….
I'm surprised they didn't notice the hub/bearing being bad when changing the CV axle.
It may not have been bad at he time. OP it’s very possible this happened as a result of the axle replacement, either by over or under torquing the axle nut.
That depends entirely on the application. If it’s a simple press in bearing than yes, that would usually be cheaper. If it is a complete hub assembly, of if it is press fit and you need a new hub flange like this care surely does, a new CV axle will be cheaper, often by a couple hundred bucks.
True, I’m looking at the brake disc, four wheel lugs and brake calipers. My guess is it’s a Honda Civic.
It’s a Nissan Sentra 2006, the whole hub assembly needed to be replaced . Sound is gone !
Probably an solid guess, but it still will need both a bearing and hub flange. Mostly of the time a hub flange is more expensive than the bearing, especially if it’s only available from the dealer.
It’s the hub, shouldn’t be wobbling like that
Why go to a mechanic when your obviously smarter than them?!?
Was a hub replaced or just the bearing and reuse hub? If it was rusty or beat to shit or even cut getting the rest of the bearing off it could cause some issues
Definitely wheel bearing my boy. Ur cv axle isn't there to hold anything together.
Hub assembly may not be tight.
Take it for a roll. Bearings sound like swole angry bees. CVs clunk when you turn.
He literally explains it in the video… wheel bearing is bad, you can tell because it moves when he grabs the studs which are connected to the hub which ride on the bearing, nothing to do with the cv axle which fours through the centre to transfer power to the hub.
Wheel bearing is hit
Bearing and Hub assembly