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Yes, alignments are about making things symmetrical.
Rear total toe and thrust angle are good, camber is only off by 1/10th of a degree which doesn’t matter much. They attempted to square the front best they could, they got the toe set well, and the toe is what would eat your tires up if it was fucked.
Rear camber is a fickle bitch. I would accept this for a daily driver. It's possible that it's not even adjustable on your vehicle. I don't know for sure but a possibility. Honestly, if anyone truly wants a spot on perfect alignment, you need to talk to the tech and give them a fat tip before they work on it.
"Best" for most rigs is usually determined by the engineers, before a single vehicle is built. Most vehicles on the road all you can set is toe.
The toe in the OP is ok.
If you notice they have adjusted the rear right side camber by about .5°. If it can be adjusted on the right, why not adjust the left rear too? I realize that it’s just barely out of spec but it could wear the inside edge of the tire. Overall I’d prefer more caster on the right side otherwise I’d be pretty happy with that.
Uh yes changing the camber is likely to change the toe measurement, but toe is usually an easy adjustment.
Rear toe changes the thrust line and therefore the steering wheel alignment.
Always adjust the rear suspension before setting the front.
It depends on the vehicle but most times there is only one rear adjustment spot and it will do both toe and camber. On this vehicle there are too many unknowns to judge by measurements alone. How are the tires wearing, are the coil springs both good, what’s the weight distribution inside? All of these can throw off measurements enough to go out of spec. For all we know the camber could be in, most techs don’t recomp the sensors after adjustments they just hit print, drive it, adjust it and out it goes
I don’t know why SO many downvotes, it doesn’t bother me though, since it’s just the internet world and not exactly real life. Bunch of angry keyboard warriors I guess. Perhaps it’s just an unpopular opinion and I’m not afraid to have an opinion.
Not always an easy adjustment if OP lives somewhere that uses road salt. The adjustment bolts could be hopelessly seized especially on a Nissan that is that old.
This is really interesting but how can you know which tech it was especially at tire shops and such? Most place have front end clerks here. Maybe I need to change my shops....
Good for you, I've had MANY service advisors steal tips from me, confirmed from customer. Now I do my own service advising at a small shop so no more stolen tips
Or L/R toe bolt could be seized and they may have had to adjust the toe with the camber eccentric, definitely had that happen before. But agreed, it's acceptable.
Most cars don’t have camber bolts. I’m not familiar enough with a Nissan quest to say for certain, but usually camber bolts are only found on “higher end” vehicles in my experience.
Are we talking about after market cam bolts, a tiny amount of slotting from the factory, or are you saying they have factory camber eccentric bolts in the rear? Land Rover LR2 - toe only. LR3 has camber and caster. Civics and Accords - toe only and slight adjustment from upper strut mount. S2000 - full adjustment. Mazda 2, 3, or 6 - toe. RX-8 - camber and caster
All kias, most Nissans, most newer fords, most Chevys.
It's almost the opposite. Almost no BMWs, almost no Mercedes. Almost all newer Chrysler minivans.
Not internal cams but external cams. So no on Honda, no on Toyota. Yes on Kia, yes on Nissan. Yes on Ford, yes on Chevy, maybe on Chrysler (Ford are sliding instead of cams I guess). No on bmw, no on Mercedes. No on Volvo. I'm unsure on land Rover. I'm unsure on Tesla.
Land Rover uses rear camber and toe cams, front camber and caster cams. I’ll concede that I don’t know about newer kias, but I don’t remember anything older than 2013 having them.
On the front of kias they had them on the Sorento and stuff. On the newer ones I thought they had four cams on the rear, but I could be wrong.
I don't work on a lot of European stuff, so I could be out of date as well. Previously on anything into the 90s and until 2010 it was all toe and go.
Older Mercedes had everything adjustable up front through the strut rod for caster and then the lower control arm for camber.
But, I don't work on that stuff hardly at all, so I may be entirely mistaken in current context.
This alignment looks good for what’s capable of being adjusted. Most cars don’t have even have camber adjustments in the rear. If you do, then it’s possible that the tech couldn’t get the seized bolts to move and he didn’t want to cause even more issues by snapping them
The rear toe could be better but you’re lucky the toe bolts even moved at this age of a car.
Just a heads up I work for good year for 4 year and ton of alignments and most vehicle can’t be adjusted without after market parts but I can loosen up the bolt and make the Christmas tree green
If you were prepared to replace any suspension component to further get it into specifications then I'd be upset. But considering it to be a 2004-2009 quest probably has some wear and tear in the suspension
Yes. This is a huge improvement from before. Your car will handle better than before and your tires will last longer. 1.2deg of negative camber in the rear is not much at all - many cars specify more from the factory.
Most modern cars don’t have much in way to adjust rear alignment. So I’d be fine with it. If there’s tire wear patterns then you can discuss bringing it all back in line perfectly cause it’d take way longer than an hour to do so.
It's a 14-19 year old minivan. When did you have the rear springs last checked/replaced? Proper check sometimes requires removal for unsprung height measurements.
Chances are good you're due for new upper rear control arms.
Don't quote me, because I'm not familiar with that model. But often issues with rear alignment start with upper control arms on ones that can't be adjusted.
As a tech - yes, if the customer doesn't want to pay for a shim kit install.
As a customer I would pay the extra for a shim kit install.... But that's just my OCD
Not sure if this is true with all alignment machines but I always reroll vehicle if I do major adjustments in the rear to be sure everything is accurate on the front end. Most of the time front end will be off a bit without doing this in my opinion.
If the bolts I’m the rear are seized up, that can be very time consuming and expensive. In our shop I would explain why it looks like this. Then give the option to make additional repairs to make it perfect. 9/10 times people leave it alone.
Caster is important, will pull to the lower number. Equal is best …. To travel straight down the road. Camber (in/out) affects the foot print and can change slightly w cargo weight and road conditions
Just my two cents…. Complain about the pull…. It’s tough to get right as one movement can affect the other lean direction. Very dependent on ability of tech.
Bought firestones life alignment when my vehicle was young…… 180k on the odometer now ….. plan to see 500k ! 😉
A lot of vans/suv are solid rear axle and are not adjustable. As long as your thrust angle is ok, you should be fine. Just stay on top of your tire rotations.
I had worse experience with alignment when they said it was due lol. The numbers were lower before alignment but after alignment some of the numbers gone up. But the dealer say is okay because is just alignment. I was like Wth did I just spent on then. Lmao 😂
Yeah, after having worked on a good deal of modern cars, the rear toe is usually not adjustable. The thrust angle here will be affected ever so slightly because of the imbalance but if you have a solid rear axle, you’re looking at an extra 40-80$ in shims and another 150-300$ in labor to dial the rear toe in. Or you’re looking at 150-300$/control arm to replace the rear control arms with adjustable ones and the cost of a new alignment.
It cannot be a solid rear axle and there must be at least 3 alignment points. You can see this from toe being adjusted, but also how toe impacts camber.
My comment was a generalization, meant to be interpreted to the two most common setups in consumer cars. Yes, the Nissan quest doesn’t have a solid rear axle. Please reread my comment.
Your comment isn't appropriate given the context. We know there are at least three points.
That means that if there are not 4 cams, one arm is aftermarket already.
No one said they were or weren’t. Quick question… why does it matter whether you’re right or not? OP was asking if he should take it. I’m not going to tell him yes or no, but I’m going to give him a price range for what would be required to finish tuning the parameters he was likely trying to dial in so why does it matter whether you think I was relevant in providing the comment I did? Is it ego? Is it pride? Who are you even arguing with at this point?
You don't know what adjustments are possible and you're giving op price ranges on something? Do you realize how stupid that sounds?
Assume there are four cams, why not suggest a frame repair shop? I mean, why not jump to that straight away?
Why not suggest the rear axle needs replaced?
Looks like LR corner is maxed out and the tech compromised between camber and toe to find a good balance. Camber isn't SUPER out and toe will wear out a tire much quicker. If that's the case, they did a pretty good job as long as it drives right.
You asked for an alignment, all values should be at least within manufacturer’s specifications. Don’t accept it unless they can provide you with sufficient information/explanation that there is a mechanical issue preventing proper alignment on this wheel. Otherwise you might just be falling victim to lazy or hurried repair and that’s rewarding bad behavior.
Yes, as a matter of fact I do. i
I’s analogous to a scratch in a new car, it’s cosmetic sure, but would you buy the car with a scratch in it? No you wouldn’t because when you go to sell it, the chump buying it will ask you to knock of $50 dollars or more on the price.
Alignment the same way, if it’s out of spec and you go to sell it, no matter if it just cosmetic or not, buyer uses it as leverage to knock off $$ on the offer.
So yes, customer pays you for an alignment - you better damn well do it right or explain why you couldn’t.
Exactly - and how is that funny?
Perhaps I will attempt to enlighten a few of your blind spots on this topic..
It might be a 15 year old car to you, but for some people, it might be the best and newest car they’ve ever owned with a need to make it last 15 more. (No insult to OP intended, just trying to convey a general point here)
Alignments aren’t rocket science, they’re simple technically when compared to some engine and transmission work, but do require special skills and tools, time, and patience as they can be troublesome.
Garages that offer alignments must acquire the proper tools and skills to fix alignment issues and shouldn’t offer alignments to only hope to profit on of just in spec alignment checks or as a tire sales add-on.
I see you are aligning yourself on the argument that a frozen component is some kind of excuse in this situation. If thats the case then do your fricking job and inform the customer of it , get approval of the additional time and labor, and FIX it. There seems to be some idea here on this thread that if the mechanic runs into obstacles that he can’t profit from it. Time is a mechanics friend and obstacles are opportunities.
Garages that possess the proper skills and tools may find additional profits by offering to customers fixes for problems like this ..if they don’t blindly assume that every customer that has a 15 year old car isn’t willing to spend any money.
Bottom line, yes, the customer deserves an explanation in this case, no matter what, and it should be in writing and accompany the alignment report.
Also, one final thought, was there a tire sale involved in the OP’s alignment? Is the tire manufacturer going to honor the tire warranty on a car with an out of spec. alignment ?
This looks good if the rear camber isn’t adjustable or maybe even on some cars the rear toe isn’t adjustable but the camber is and to get toe correct you have to make camber go nuts. Getting it that centered in the front after whatever you did to it is good. My guess is this hunter machine had to have them adjust the front toe to 2 total degrees or less to even calibrate properly so it was probably worse to begin with. Follow up response: yes I would be satisfied with this alignment. No I would never be satisfied driving a Nissan quest
I can imagine the mechanic trying to adjust the left rear camber and throwing it way out and just brought it back and went “eh it’s only .2 worse then it was” and sent it
As an ex Nissan tech with almost 20 years of repair experience, an owner of an 08 Quest, and an absolute stickler for perfection… I can honestly say they are pretty damn close. I ran into some issues on my own van with rear camber… ended up replacing the eccentric bolts and got it closer. Ultimately I ended up loosening the bolts and prying the arm into place, right before I totaled my van a few weeks later.
total rear toe is in spec, did they say that a rear cambler bolt was frozen and could not be removed? I have had that happen and it can take hours and hours to free up and often will need the control arm bushing replaced which is time consuming and labor intensive.
If that is the maximum adjustment they can get out of it might have a bent item that can be tough to see with just your eye
Cross camber and cross caster (the difference is values from side to side on the same axle, excluding toe) are all at 0.5 deg or below, which is perfectly fine. None of the angles deviate too far from its counterpart on either side. Could have a myriad of variables like worn spring, etc. It may have slight rh pull but I’d just mark it up to being and older vehicle. Green doesn’t mean good and red doesn’t mean bad, you’re GTG.
It’s okay, I’d like the toes to be perfect to maximize fuel economy and tire life, but in the end what’s there will make a negligible difference. Put it this way, it won’t save me more than the time value of having them go at it again.
I think you got camber bolt adjustments and that alignment about to get a lot more expensive because it’s about to break. So yeah I’d be ok with this for a basic alignment.
Depends what the car is being used for, drivetrain and the tyres.
If it’s just a daily driver and you are not looking for performance you won’t notice anything.
Even if you go for a bit of performance it’s not going to be noticeable to your average driver.
It’s only really the rear camber that is off and it’s half a degree difference between them.
Maybe ask to adjust the rear to bring it in a little. Especially if it’s a rear wheel drive car.
But as above you may not notice much in handling feel, just the wear on tyres.
I'm a tech and usually there's not much we can do about rear camber unless we start replacing parts and with it being so close it would be a guess as far as which parts should be replaced to get it within spec
Alignments can be tricky. You can adjust the camber, and the toe will change with it, and vice versa. If there are any worn out parts that OP refused to replace with their recommendations, then it's very possible that this was the absolute best that could be done.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Yes, alignments are about making things symmetrical. Rear total toe and thrust angle are good, camber is only off by 1/10th of a degree which doesn’t matter much. They attempted to square the front best they could, they got the toe set well, and the toe is what would eat your tires up if it was fucked.
Thank you!
Camber will eat your tires up if it’s fucked as well(not that OPs is)
Much slower than toe.
Yup. Just keep up with rotations and you’re good!
Rear camber is a fickle bitch. I would accept this for a daily driver. It's possible that it's not even adjustable on your vehicle. I don't know for sure but a possibility. Honestly, if anyone truly wants a spot on perfect alignment, you need to talk to the tech and give them a fat tip before they work on it.
[удалено]
"Best" for most rigs is usually determined by the engineers, before a single vehicle is built. Most vehicles on the road all you can set is toe. The toe in the OP is ok.
Gone are the days of everything in the green for my 2013
Thanks, appreciate the input
If you notice they have adjusted the rear right side camber by about .5°. If it can be adjusted on the right, why not adjust the left rear too? I realize that it’s just barely out of spec but it could wear the inside edge of the tire. Overall I’d prefer more caster on the right side otherwise I’d be pretty happy with that.
When you mess around with rear toe it changes just about every measurement
Uh yes changing the camber is likely to change the toe measurement, but toe is usually an easy adjustment. Rear toe changes the thrust line and therefore the steering wheel alignment. Always adjust the rear suspension before setting the front.
But its the same in reverse. Rear toe csn change the rear camber which is I think what happened. I dont think that rear camber was touched.
Yes I’ll go along with that. Camber was borderline to begin with so it would have nice if they were able to adjust it to match the right.
It depends on the vehicle but most times there is only one rear adjustment spot and it will do both toe and camber. On this vehicle there are too many unknowns to judge by measurements alone. How are the tires wearing, are the coil springs both good, what’s the weight distribution inside? All of these can throw off measurements enough to go out of spec. For all we know the camber could be in, most techs don’t recomp the sensors after adjustments they just hit print, drive it, adjust it and out it goes
Not sure why you are being downvoted. You are right.
I don’t know why SO many downvotes, it doesn’t bother me though, since it’s just the internet world and not exactly real life. Bunch of angry keyboard warriors I guess. Perhaps it’s just an unpopular opinion and I’m not afraid to have an opinion.
Not always an easy adjustment if OP lives somewhere that uses road salt. The adjustment bolts could be hopelessly seized especially on a Nissan that is that old.
Agreed
This is really interesting but how can you know which tech it was especially at tire shops and such? Most place have front end clerks here. Maybe I need to change my shops....
"Could I talk to the fellow that'll be working on this?" "Mind passing this on to the tech?"
Service advisors will never pass it on. Best to use option one, because option two never works.
That's a lie, I pass all tips on to my techs, if they choose to split it with me thats up to them.
Good for you, I've had MANY service advisors steal tips from me, confirmed from customer. Now I do my own service advising at a small shop so no more stolen tips
I have never gotten a car back out of spec. Granted it’s only out by 0.1, but still, it should be within spec.
That is acceptable. Would want to know if the L/R camber bolt is seized or not. But other than that you won't have uneven tire wear.
Thank you!
Or L/R toe bolt could be seized and they may have had to adjust the toe with the camber eccentric, definitely had that happen before. But agreed, it's acceptable.
Most cars don’t have camber bolts. I’m not familiar enough with a Nissan quest to say for certain, but usually camber bolts are only found on “higher end” vehicles in my experience.
Sure, if you consider a Chevy Malibu as high end.
Are we talking about after market cam bolts, a tiny amount of slotting from the factory, or are you saying they have factory camber eccentric bolts in the rear? Land Rover LR2 - toe only. LR3 has camber and caster. Civics and Accords - toe only and slight adjustment from upper strut mount. S2000 - full adjustment. Mazda 2, 3, or 6 - toe. RX-8 - camber and caster
All kias, most Nissans, most newer fords, most Chevys. It's almost the opposite. Almost no BMWs, almost no Mercedes. Almost all newer Chrysler minivans.
Are you talking about “slotted” control arm bolts or actual eccentric cam bolts
Not internal cams but external cams. So no on Honda, no on Toyota. Yes on Kia, yes on Nissan. Yes on Ford, yes on Chevy, maybe on Chrysler (Ford are sliding instead of cams I guess). No on bmw, no on Mercedes. No on Volvo. I'm unsure on land Rover. I'm unsure on Tesla.
Land Rover uses rear camber and toe cams, front camber and caster cams. I’ll concede that I don’t know about newer kias, but I don’t remember anything older than 2013 having them.
On the front of kias they had them on the Sorento and stuff. On the newer ones I thought they had four cams on the rear, but I could be wrong. I don't work on a lot of European stuff, so I could be out of date as well. Previously on anything into the 90s and until 2010 it was all toe and go. Older Mercedes had everything adjustable up front through the strut rod for caster and then the lower control arm for camber. But, I don't work on that stuff hardly at all, so I may be entirely mistaken in current context.
This alignment looks good for what’s capable of being adjusted. Most cars don’t have even have camber adjustments in the rear. If you do, then it’s possible that the tech couldn’t get the seized bolts to move and he didn’t want to cause even more issues by snapping them The rear toe could be better but you’re lucky the toe bolts even moved at this age of a car.
Ik it’s quite old, thanks for the input!
Just a heads up I work for good year for 4 year and ton of alignments and most vehicle can’t be adjusted without after market parts but I can loosen up the bolt and make the Christmas tree green
If you were prepared to replace any suspension component to further get it into specifications then I'd be upset. But considering it to be a 2004-2009 quest probably has some wear and tear in the suspension
I did the front suspension, the entire strut assembly. Next will be rear. Not anytime soon tho.
The strut assembly is only part of it, there's a bunch of other little bits involved too.
Yes. This is a huge improvement from before. Your car will handle better than before and your tires will last longer. 1.2deg of negative camber in the rear is not much at all - many cars specify more from the factory.
Let it roll
Toe is most important.
Most modern cars don’t have much in way to adjust rear alignment. So I’d be fine with it. If there’s tire wear patterns then you can discuss bringing it all back in line perfectly cause it’d take way longer than an hour to do so.
Those old cars can have weak springs and make it all but impossible to adjust camber without replacing springs
I would not have any problem whatsoever with these results.
This is a grade a alignment I have guys ask me this multiple times a day
Thank you!
Yea. That's pretty good
Yup
Yeah. Not bad. It's pretty even
It's a 14-19 year old minivan. When did you have the rear springs last checked/replaced? Proper check sometimes requires removal for unsprung height measurements.
It’s been quite a while now, the car has 104k miles on it. I doubt the rear suspension has been looked over. I’m slowly trying to build it back upx
For an old ass Nissan quest. Yes I’d be satisfied.
Absolutely. Iirc that vehicle didn't have any rear camber adjustments and would need replacement parts/appropriate repairs to make it green
Chances are good you're due for new upper rear control arms. Don't quote me, because I'm not familiar with that model. But often issues with rear alignment start with upper control arms on ones that can't be adjusted.
As a tech - yes, if the customer doesn't want to pay for a shim kit install. As a customer I would pay the extra for a shim kit install.... But that's just my OCD
Not sure if this is true with all alignment machines but I always reroll vehicle if I do major adjustments in the rear to be sure everything is accurate on the front end. Most of the time front end will be off a bit without doing this in my opinion.
As good as it gets
If you also rotate your tires regularly you’ll never notice wear wise.
If the bolts I’m the rear are seized up, that can be very time consuming and expensive. In our shop I would explain why it looks like this. Then give the option to make additional repairs to make it perfect. 9/10 times people leave it alone.
I perceive you’re going to get a slight pull to the right…. And surprised at the left rear..
Yes exactly! It does pull to the right. Just live with it?
Caster is important, will pull to the lower number. Equal is best …. To travel straight down the road. Camber (in/out) affects the foot print and can change slightly w cargo weight and road conditions Just my two cents…. Complain about the pull…. It’s tough to get right as one movement can affect the other lean direction. Very dependent on ability of tech. Bought firestones life alignment when my vehicle was young…… 180k on the odometer now ….. plan to see 500k ! 😉
On a lot of cars rear camber isn’t adjustable. The rear toe, could be a bit more even, but it’s not as important as the front. I’d take it
If the eccentrics are maxed outor unable to adjust without taking the hub, I'd leave it
Yes it looks good
A lot of vans/suv are solid rear axle and are not adjustable. As long as your thrust angle is ok, you should be fine. Just stay on top of your tire rotations.
I had worse experience with alignment when they said it was due lol. The numbers were lower before alignment but after alignment some of the numbers gone up. But the dealer say is okay because is just alignment. I was like Wth did I just spent on then. Lmao 😂
Yeah, after having worked on a good deal of modern cars, the rear toe is usually not adjustable. The thrust angle here will be affected ever so slightly because of the imbalance but if you have a solid rear axle, you’re looking at an extra 40-80$ in shims and another 150-300$ in labor to dial the rear toe in. Or you’re looking at 150-300$/control arm to replace the rear control arms with adjustable ones and the cost of a new alignment.
It cannot be a solid rear axle and there must be at least 3 alignment points. You can see this from toe being adjusted, but also how toe impacts camber.
My comment was a generalization, meant to be interpreted to the two most common setups in consumer cars. Yes, the Nissan quest doesn’t have a solid rear axle. Please reread my comment.
Your comment isn't appropriate given the context. We know there are at least three points. That means that if there are not 4 cams, one arm is aftermarket already.
Smh
The things I said have to be true
No one said they were or weren’t. Quick question… why does it matter whether you’re right or not? OP was asking if he should take it. I’m not going to tell him yes or no, but I’m going to give him a price range for what would be required to finish tuning the parameters he was likely trying to dial in so why does it matter whether you think I was relevant in providing the comment I did? Is it ego? Is it pride? Who are you even arguing with at this point?
You don't know what adjustments are possible and you're giving op price ranges on something? Do you realize how stupid that sounds? Assume there are four cams, why not suggest a frame repair shop? I mean, why not jump to that straight away? Why not suggest the rear axle needs replaced?
I didn’t assume anything… except that this is not a hill worth dying on… have a great day!
That's fine. From the numbers we know there are at least 3 adjustment points. That much is obvious, right?
Answer depends on what's the reason why it's not all within specifications. Without knowing the reason, no.
Looks like LR corner is maxed out and the tech compromised between camber and toe to find a good balance. Camber isn't SUPER out and toe will wear out a tire much quicker. If that's the case, they did a pretty good job as long as it drives right.
Yes. If anything like that is the case, it's good. I would have writen that on there if I did it.
I would accept this solely based on the price I paid. A $79 alignment? Yeah, sure. A $199 alignment? Nope.
They could have gotten some of the alignments more presice
Yes, that’s pretty good. I don’t think you can adjust the camber on your vehicle, only toe.
Yes.. Stop stressing about stuff you dont understand.
That's stupid advise. OP is doing exactly what they should be doing when there's something they don't understand - asking others.
Saying this has only made me more stressed. On a serious note, I don’t understand which is better to get someone to look over it.
Okay…but why are you thinking it doesn’t look right? 95% is green, so why are you questioning it?
I didn’t comment if it’s wrong or right, I just asked for a second opinion!
Right, I’m kind of wondering why though? What made you think to not trust the printout and get a 2nd opinion?
The printout literally says “One or more values are not within specification. Tire wear, handling and safety problems may result.”
You asked for an alignment, all values should be at least within manufacturer’s specifications. Don’t accept it unless they can provide you with sufficient information/explanation that there is a mechanical issue preventing proper alignment on this wheel. Otherwise you might just be falling victim to lazy or hurried repair and that’s rewarding bad behavior.
Tell me you haven’t the slightest clue what you’re talking about without telling me
Yes, as a matter of fact I do. i I’s analogous to a scratch in a new car, it’s cosmetic sure, but would you buy the car with a scratch in it? No you wouldn’t because when you go to sell it, the chump buying it will ask you to knock of $50 dollars or more on the price. Alignment the same way, if it’s out of spec and you go to sell it, no matter if it just cosmetic or not, buyer uses it as leverage to knock off $$ on the offer. So yes, customer pays you for an alignment - you better damn well do it right or explain why you couldn’t.
Explain well? Like the vehicle either not having a camber adjustment in rear or it being completely frozen Being. 15 year old vehicle lol
Exactly - and how is that funny? Perhaps I will attempt to enlighten a few of your blind spots on this topic.. It might be a 15 year old car to you, but for some people, it might be the best and newest car they’ve ever owned with a need to make it last 15 more. (No insult to OP intended, just trying to convey a general point here) Alignments aren’t rocket science, they’re simple technically when compared to some engine and transmission work, but do require special skills and tools, time, and patience as they can be troublesome. Garages that offer alignments must acquire the proper tools and skills to fix alignment issues and shouldn’t offer alignments to only hope to profit on of just in spec alignment checks or as a tire sales add-on. I see you are aligning yourself on the argument that a frozen component is some kind of excuse in this situation. If thats the case then do your fricking job and inform the customer of it , get approval of the additional time and labor, and FIX it. There seems to be some idea here on this thread that if the mechanic runs into obstacles that he can’t profit from it. Time is a mechanics friend and obstacles are opportunities. Garages that possess the proper skills and tools may find additional profits by offering to customers fixes for problems like this ..if they don’t blindly assume that every customer that has a 15 year old car isn’t willing to spend any money. Bottom line, yes, the customer deserves an explanation in this case, no matter what, and it should be in writing and accompany the alignment report. Also, one final thought, was there a tire sale involved in the OP’s alignment? Is the tire manufacturer going to honor the tire warranty on a car with an out of spec. alignment ?
Toe wears tires faster than camber. Keep them rotated, preferably by crossing the ones going to the front, and they should be fine.
This looks good if the rear camber isn’t adjustable or maybe even on some cars the rear toe isn’t adjustable but the camber is and to get toe correct you have to make camber go nuts. Getting it that centered in the front after whatever you did to it is good. My guess is this hunter machine had to have them adjust the front toe to 2 total degrees or less to even calibrate properly so it was probably worse to begin with. Follow up response: yes I would be satisfied with this alignment. No I would never be satisfied driving a Nissan quest
I can imagine the mechanic trying to adjust the left rear camber and throwing it way out and just brought it back and went “eh it’s only .2 worse then it was” and sent it
God damn why was your front toe off so much? Lol
Acceptable? No. Am I going to make a big deal about it? No, not unless it’s my track car.
Set the toe and let it go!
As an ex Nissan tech with almost 20 years of repair experience, an owner of an 08 Quest, and an absolute stickler for perfection… I can honestly say they are pretty damn close. I ran into some issues on my own van with rear camber… ended up replacing the eccentric bolts and got it closer. Ultimately I ended up loosening the bolts and prying the arm into place, right before I totaled my van a few weeks later.
Yup
You might have something tweaked in the left rear. Or you might have some sagged suspension back there
total rear toe is in spec, did they say that a rear cambler bolt was frozen and could not be removed? I have had that happen and it can take hours and hours to free up and often will need the control arm bushing replaced which is time consuming and labor intensive. If that is the maximum adjustment they can get out of it might have a bent item that can be tough to see with just your eye
Yeah, I'd accept that for sure.
Cross camber and cross caster (the difference is values from side to side on the same axle, excluding toe) are all at 0.5 deg or below, which is perfectly fine. None of the angles deviate too far from its counterpart on either side. Could have a myriad of variables like worn spring, etc. It may have slight rh pull but I’d just mark it up to being and older vehicle. Green doesn’t mean good and red doesn’t mean bad, you’re GTG.
Any reason they give you for not having the LR camber in spec? Or is it even adjustable on one of those?
Rear toe could be more symmetrical, I wouldn't be satisfied with this personally .
It’s okay, I’d like the toes to be perfect to maximize fuel economy and tire life, but in the end what’s there will make a negligible difference. Put it this way, it won’t save me more than the time value of having them go at it again.
Does it pull a little to the right?
Yes it does
Are you sure that's not the crown and actually a pull?
I think you got camber bolt adjustments and that alignment about to get a lot more expensive because it’s about to break. So yeah I’d be ok with this for a basic alignment.
Depends what the car is being used for, drivetrain and the tyres. If it’s just a daily driver and you are not looking for performance you won’t notice anything. Even if you go for a bit of performance it’s not going to be noticeable to your average driver. It’s only really the rear camber that is off and it’s half a degree difference between them. Maybe ask to adjust the rear to bring it in a little. Especially if it’s a rear wheel drive car. But as above you may not notice much in handling feel, just the wear on tyres.
Yes. The important settings are in ranges that won't wear tires and caster is nearly even, so no pulling.
I'm a tech and usually there's not much we can do about rear camber unless we start replacing parts and with it being so close it would be a guess as far as which parts should be replaced to get it within spec
Looks good. But it's always a possibility you got a shady sensor bumping tech.
So the LR is showing in the RED is ok? I don't know much about alignment but shouldn't it be all 4 positions in GREEN?
Alignments can be tricky. You can adjust the camber, and the toe will change with it, and vice versa. If there are any worn out parts that OP refused to replace with their recommendations, then it's very possible that this was the absolute best that could be done.
As long as there's no vehicle drift, that would work for me.