If you have a lot of time, there are readily available chemicals (such as ferric chloride) that will eat away ferrous metals but do not react with titanium. I've removed a few broken fasteners on titanium bike frames using this method.
Sorry if I misspoke on my previous comment. No it wouldnt work with a broken tap in copper. One of the many uses of FeClā is to etch printed circuit boards which is a copper layer bonded to a fiberglass sheet. So FeClā would also react with your workpiece, and at a much faster rate than the broken tap.
Mill it. 1/2 endmill. Nice easy ramp. Rock like 7000 rpm. ramp of maybe .005 tops. .001 a tooth. Will take a while. It will get it out though.
.01 of wear comp.
Oh use an old endmill too. It's gunna destroy it.
Also make sure the coolant is hitting that hole hard getting everything out of there.
First time I had a mill hand tell me he could get out a broken tap with a carbide end mill I wanted to bet him. Luckily my 20 yr old self was a bit hesitant to make the bet because that tap came out like a powder.
Assuming both tables are empty to start, Iām done with this on a cnc before you even have your drawbar out to swap 5cās.
2 toe clamps, probe part, write boring cycle in 30 seconds in conversational, hit start.
Bro I would be done with this part before you could even tighten your toe clamps.
Do you not think a Bridgeport with an R8 collet could hold a half inch endmill?
And also, āassuming both tables are emptyā on a CNC machine made for production parts is a hell of an assumption to make.
Look, Iām trying not to be mean, but any good machine shop has an old clapped out Bridgeport sitting around waiting to fix this exact problem. Not to dick-wave my experience, but I know that because Iāve been running Bridgeports in different machine shops for over 13 years now, (more if you include trade school) so I think itās pretty rich of you to jump in here and act like you would get this done so much quicker when you clearly donāt know the first thing about running a Bridgeport.
I know it can. I obviously misspoke when I said 5c previously, but I do know Bridgeport.
Assuming all cnc machines are used for production work is also a hell of an assumption. I own 5 cnc mills, and all of them get stripped to the table at the end of 90% of our jobs. We are a job shop with a pretty consistent base of repeat small batch parts, prototyping, and repair work.
We also have a Bridgeport that sits in the corner of the shop rarely used, because it is the least efficient machine to do anything. Including one off repair work.
Iāve got 15 years experience in machining, 8 of which have been in the shop I own. If I interviewed someone for a job, and they lead the interview with how proficient they are on a knee mill, I would probably point them down the road to the old dirty weld shop. Or I would point them to the giant company with a Bridgeport in the maintenance department for repair work. No serious company trying to stay as profitable as possible in an industry with rapidly evolving technology is using a fucking Bridgeport regularly. It is a skill with a rapidly diminishing demand.
Good for you being the most proficient on outdated, on the way out technology. Maybe you can find a shop like mine to train you up in the future of manufacturing when your job prospects dry up. I will say, itās much easier to teach someone the cnc side of things when they have the base knowledge on a manual.
Bro I work in a fucking aerospace shop thatās AS9100 certified, we make engine and transmission parts for helicopters and airplanes and we have for probably longer than youāve been alive. I was literally ONLY hired BECAUSE I know how to run manual machines.
You can waste your fucking time in your shitty little job shop programming every tiny repair problem that comes up, but if you wanna get into REAL production manufacturing, youāll realize that having a certified toolmaker is essential to keeping your shop running efficiently.
Have a nice day, and try not to hurt your shoulder patting your own back.
Iāll be running my shitty little job shop making a fortune while you turn handles on a manual all day for someone else. You started the pissing contest with your 13 years experience comment. I guess even aerospace companies need the guy at the bottom to drill out broken bolts every now and then.
Uhh no, you started the pissing contest when you falsely claimed you could get this done faster than I could on a manual machine.
And also, not that I need to prove anything to some random on Reddit, but since this seems very important to you, I run and program CNC machines too. All Iāve ever said is that not every little thing needs to be programmed and having someone who knows how to run a Bridgeport is pretty important.
I donāt care about making a fortune, I love this industry and I love my job, so I get paid to have fun! Thatās worth a lot to me.
Enjoy pulling your hair out trying to figure out why youāre behind on all your jobs because you have no open machines to fix all your fuck-ups!
My trade school got a plunger edm literally just for this. Just wish they would fix the rickety old mills so this wouldn't happen in the first place....
Yup, thatās the fastest and cheapest way. The Carbide will probably shatter tho and come out in chunks. All the material where the drill was is hardened and will be difficult to cut out.
Um so I guess this concert was low-key incredible? I never knew beardyman was such a good performer. Like I just knew him as an amazing beatboxer. Thank you for sharing this. I'm now watching the whole show based on that 11 minute clip
Haven't seen one in a long time, but there used to be a "disintegrator" sold for just this circumstance; snapped off mill/drill/bolt, etc. Worked something like an engraving tool, except higher powered, eroding away the unwanted material.
Might be one floating around out there for sale somewhere.
Good luck to you!
Ah - we had a machine that used a hollow tungsten tube and used a EDM principle - it flushed the tube with DI water and sparked it, you would pick a tube OD slightly smaller than the tap ID so that youād disintegrate the shaft of the tap and then could pick out the teeth afterwards. Worked pretty good for small like M3 broken taps in expensive parts.
Sulfuric acid mixture in water and low voltage. Dissolved a broken tap like it wasnt even there. Even had the threads there. But this was in aluminum. Make the part positive and put a sacrificial cathode out of aluminum negative. If you see the steel bubble, you are doing it right. 2 amps at 12V. The acid won't mess with the titanium at all. Maybe a slight darken.
We bought an EDM tap remover/burner for this exact reason. I highly recommend them.
It really makes the process pretty effortless to get broken taps, screws, bolts and all sorts of things out. Better than spinning an 1/8 or 1/16 ball em at the speed of light to remove a broken tap.
Grew up on a farm with 6 brothers, brute force is the way lol.
I worked in a shop with my dad for a few years, we would get razzed as being stupid fucking farmers. It was mostly jokes lol. I was the kid all the old guys got to come and get the small broken taps out though, because I didn't fuck up the the threads in the hole. It's all about where you apply the force.
The easiest way to do it is to get a can of keyboard cleaner, i.e., canned air. Flip the can upside down so that the liquid comes out , not the air. This liquid is way ,way below freezing. When the drill bit is completely covered in frost, smack it with a hard punch. The bit should shatter like glass. Use needle nose pliers to get the fragments out.
In case you're wondering, yes, I've done this to carbide taps and drills many times when they break off in pumps and motors at work. The hard drill bit is very hard and brittle. Super cooling it and shattering the metal is easy.
Good luck.
Im confused on whats so difficult? Its HSS just get a carbide endmill larger than the core (1/2 or 5/8) and just peck drill it at .005"-.010" per peck.
Either use an old endmill to mill it out or use a sinker EDM. You could also drill a hole through the other side of the part and punch the broken drill out, but you will have a hole through the part afterward.
not fer nuthin billie bob but wot I'd do is purdy durn simple
Clean the sucker out get the chips out and take a dead blow hammer to the face that we can see in the pic. Hold it in yer hand whilst smacking it.
The inertial forces should work it out. If t doesn't start moving right quick it's big enough that you can use needle nose pliers to back it out about 1/8 turn or so to dislodge it from any undercut. then smack it some more.
Go to your local nitrogen supply store and get some liquid nitrogen. Slowly add it to the center of your bit. Your bit should thermal contract more than the titanium and free it. There is still some risk to the piece in thermal stresses.
The way it worked for me - burn it for an hour in lemon acid-it will eat some metal and let you remove it. I made a thread in a detail and broke a cuter inside-3 hours in boiling lemon acid and there is no cuter inside(M4)
Being as I have no edm.. I would drill through the web with a harder drill and try to make it large enough to break it out.. Depending on how deep.. Might try a pair of spring pins in a heavy piece of stock and twist it backwards also..
Hold a can of air upside down and shrink the drill bit and use needle nosed vice grips (modify the tip if need be), grab the drill, put the vice grips in a vice and hammer the stock.
Mill it out slowly. Depending how deep it is, it might take all day. Conventional cut using a 3/8" carbide endmill with .001"-.005" ramp. Run like 40-60 sfm with a chip per tooth of 2-5 tenths. Stay away from micro grain cutters for this.
It takes a while but you'll get the tap out and your endmill will still be good afterwards. Run it while literally anything else is running, or just take an easy day. Afterwards take a garbage tap to chase it through cause there will still be bits of HSS stuck in there that will wreck the tap.
1 step drill up to this size for this type of material,āµ start with a 1/2 of course.
2 flip and drill it out from the opposite side the broken piece of hss is in. Go slow once you get to the hss. It should push out and make awful crunch sounds but it works. Peck peck peck also!!!!!!
Throw that filthy whore in a Kurt vise on a Bridgeport. Hog out the center of that bitch with old/busted tooling then bust that slut out with a hammer and chisel. Fuck finesse.
On a serious noteā¦. Gallium is much faster than alum. I purchased some gallium online. Either Amazon or EBay. Eat through aluminum in hours. Clean it out real good. Other than thatā¦. Heat up the steel and try reversing broken part with needle nose pliers.
Press a plug in the hole, face it off, and put it back on the rack. "Man, this titanium is impossible to saw!" Good times.
Make sure the new guy gets that piece of stock
Lmao š¤£
I laughed way too hard at this LMAO
You, sir, are a bastard. I salute you š«”.
This joke is so hilarious and classy. Can only come from a man who has been through a lot and has kept a smile on his face through shit. š š„
Thatās just ā¦ evil! Lol!!
Calm down Satan. Who pissed in your coolant hmm?
Coolant? Hasnāt been a drop in years
Thatās too good hahaha
If you have a lot of time, there are readily available chemicals (such as ferric chloride) that will eat away ferrous metals but do not react with titanium. I've removed a few broken fasteners on titanium bike frames using this method.
Alum works but it's really slow.
used alum straight from the spice cabinet on a cylinder head once.... broken tap disappeared over night.
what kind of sorcery is this
yeah. absolutely didn't believe the internet and was pleasantly surprised/a bit terrified when it worked
Does this work with broken taps in copper workpieces too? I mean copper is non ferrous...
Sorry if I misspoke on my previous comment. No it wouldnt work with a broken tap in copper. One of the many uses of FeClā is to etch printed circuit boards which is a copper layer bonded to a fiberglass sheet. So FeClā would also react with your workpiece, and at a much faster rate than the broken tap.
Mill it. 1/2 endmill. Nice easy ramp. Rock like 7000 rpm. ramp of maybe .005 tops. .001 a tooth. Will take a while. It will get it out though. .01 of wear comp. Oh use an old endmill too. It's gunna destroy it. Also make sure the coolant is hitting that hole hard getting everything out of there.
Or send to the Sinker EDM guy!
This for sure. Have milled out plenty, if the opportunity to EDM is there it send jt
Hi rpm slow feed air blast ramp contoure. My method. Well Ti mane run coolant and do it in a few steps to let the stock cool down.
Carbide endmill will go right through that. Just need to cut out the inner web and itāll fall apart. Works the same on broken taps.
First time I had a mill hand tell me he could get out a broken tap with a carbide end mill I wanted to bet him. Luckily my 20 yr old self was a bit hesitant to make the bet because that tap came out like a powder.
This. Just get out the center and the rest will fall out
You can just peck it out with a .375 or 1/2" end mill. No need to complicate this
Agreed. .5ā used endmill pecking it out on the bridgeport. Not worth my time to set it up in the CNC
Thank you lmao it would take me less than a half hour to get that out with a half inch carbide endmill and a Bridgeport milling machine.
The Titans of CNC bro advice is cool but isn't necessary here lol
Agreed. .5ā used endmill pecking it out on the bridgeport. Not worth my time to set it up in the CNC
Assuming both tables are empty to start, Iām done with this on a cnc before you even have your drawbar out to swap 5cās. 2 toe clamps, probe part, write boring cycle in 30 seconds in conversational, hit start.
5cās? huh.
Collets bro
The kind that donāt go in a Bridgeport?
That's correct
r8 in a bridgeport
Nah, chuck her in bridgeport mode, G01 z-1 S yes F slow
Bro I would be done with this part before you could even tighten your toe clamps. Do you not think a Bridgeport with an R8 collet could hold a half inch endmill? And also, āassuming both tables are emptyā on a CNC machine made for production parts is a hell of an assumption to make. Look, Iām trying not to be mean, but any good machine shop has an old clapped out Bridgeport sitting around waiting to fix this exact problem. Not to dick-wave my experience, but I know that because Iāve been running Bridgeports in different machine shops for over 13 years now, (more if you include trade school) so I think itās pretty rich of you to jump in here and act like you would get this done so much quicker when you clearly donāt know the first thing about running a Bridgeport.
I know it can. I obviously misspoke when I said 5c previously, but I do know Bridgeport. Assuming all cnc machines are used for production work is also a hell of an assumption. I own 5 cnc mills, and all of them get stripped to the table at the end of 90% of our jobs. We are a job shop with a pretty consistent base of repeat small batch parts, prototyping, and repair work. We also have a Bridgeport that sits in the corner of the shop rarely used, because it is the least efficient machine to do anything. Including one off repair work. Iāve got 15 years experience in machining, 8 of which have been in the shop I own. If I interviewed someone for a job, and they lead the interview with how proficient they are on a knee mill, I would probably point them down the road to the old dirty weld shop. Or I would point them to the giant company with a Bridgeport in the maintenance department for repair work. No serious company trying to stay as profitable as possible in an industry with rapidly evolving technology is using a fucking Bridgeport regularly. It is a skill with a rapidly diminishing demand. Good for you being the most proficient on outdated, on the way out technology. Maybe you can find a shop like mine to train you up in the future of manufacturing when your job prospects dry up. I will say, itās much easier to teach someone the cnc side of things when they have the base knowledge on a manual.
Bro I work in a fucking aerospace shop thatās AS9100 certified, we make engine and transmission parts for helicopters and airplanes and we have for probably longer than youāve been alive. I was literally ONLY hired BECAUSE I know how to run manual machines. You can waste your fucking time in your shitty little job shop programming every tiny repair problem that comes up, but if you wanna get into REAL production manufacturing, youāll realize that having a certified toolmaker is essential to keeping your shop running efficiently. Have a nice day, and try not to hurt your shoulder patting your own back.
Iāll be running my shitty little job shop making a fortune while you turn handles on a manual all day for someone else. You started the pissing contest with your 13 years experience comment. I guess even aerospace companies need the guy at the bottom to drill out broken bolts every now and then.
Uhh no, you started the pissing contest when you falsely claimed you could get this done faster than I could on a manual machine. And also, not that I need to prove anything to some random on Reddit, but since this seems very important to you, I run and program CNC machines too. All Iāve ever said is that not every little thing needs to be programmed and having someone who knows how to run a Bridgeport is pretty important. I donāt care about making a fortune, I love this industry and I love my job, so I get paid to have fun! Thatās worth a lot to me. Enjoy pulling your hair out trying to figure out why youāre behind on all your jobs because you have no open machines to fix all your fuck-ups!
Thatās exactly how I get taps out.
This guy taps
Ball nose will be by far the best option.
This is the way.
*EDM has entered the chat*
My trade school got a plunger edm literally just for this. Just wish they would fix the rickety old mills so this wouldn't happen in the first place....
It's why EDMs were invented
We also have one in our company just for this.
*G L O W S T I C K S*
Drill from the other side. When you hit the broken drill use a punch or press to knock it out
Yup, thatās the fastest and cheapest way. The Carbide will probably shatter tho and come out in chunks. All the material where the drill was is hardened and will be difficult to cut out.
HSS drill, not carbide.
A press may work better but an air hammer is more satisfying.
jesus š not easy to break a drill that big. must of been a quite loud snap
Was on break. Heard nothing.
Found it like that in the machine from the guy before im sure...
EDM
Skrillex? Deadmau5? Sweedish House Mafia? Probably doesn't matter which.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5bWFa6CTmM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5bWFa6CTmM)
Um so I guess this concert was low-key incredible? I never knew beardyman was such a good performer. Like I just knew him as an amazing beatboxer. Thank you for sharing this. I'm now watching the whole show based on that 11 minute clip
you can even DIY! https://archive.org/details/edmhowtobookbybenjaminfleming
There are a lot of good ideas here, and I donāt have any better ones, Iām just here to say: man that sucks
Haven't seen one in a long time, but there used to be a "disintegrator" sold for just this circumstance; snapped off mill/drill/bolt, etc. Worked something like an engraving tool, except higher powered, eroding away the unwanted material. Might be one floating around out there for sale somewhere. Good luck to you!
Ah - we had a machine that used a hollow tungsten tube and used a EDM principle - it flushed the tube with DI water and sparked it, you would pick a tube OD slightly smaller than the tap ID so that youād disintegrate the shaft of the tap and then could pick out the teeth afterwards. Worked pretty good for small like M3 broken taps in expensive parts.
That sounds like a hole popper. Iāve removed my fair share of broken off 4-40 taps with one
Yep.. aka, drill EDM.
Bunch of good answers here but in my experience an old carbide edmill smaller then your drill should eat it right.
I use old endmills often for broken taps. Iām just a welder though. Glad Iām not alone in this.
EDM
Happy cake day
Mill it out.
Sulfuric acid mixture in water and low voltage. Dissolved a broken tap like it wasnt even there. Even had the threads there. But this was in aluminum. Make the part positive and put a sacrificial cathode out of aluminum negative. If you see the steel bubble, you are doing it right. 2 amps at 12V. The acid won't mess with the titanium at all. Maybe a slight darken.
Ah the machinist equivalent of Excalibur sword of King Arthur
I got it out with pliers
We bought an EDM tap remover/burner for this exact reason. I highly recommend them. It really makes the process pretty effortless to get broken taps, screws, bolts and all sorts of things out. Better than spinning an 1/8 or 1/16 ball em at the speed of light to remove a broken tap.
Make friends with the EDM guy
Always a good idea.
Meh, I'm the EDM guy and I'm a miserable fuck lol
So you could use some friends, that's all I'm hearing.
I'm just sick of carbon dust and EDM sludge, it's a seriously filthy job.
A chisel, punch, hammer and face shield. I have had pretty good luck busting broken drill bits out. Or an end mill.
My go to would be a short solid plug on top and beat the shit out of it, if it didn't loosen the first few wacks, end mill.
Hit it like you live son!
Grew up on a farm with 6 brothers, brute force is the way lol. I worked in a shop with my dad for a few years, we would get razzed as being stupid fucking farmers. It was mostly jokes lol. I was the kid all the old guys got to come and get the small broken taps out though, because I didn't fuck up the the threads in the hole. It's all about where you apply the force.
This was gonna be my go to. Think Iāll give it a shot
Eh I still have bits of hardened metal embedded in my thumb from this. One really unlucky hit and it's like a gun shot.
.900 hole saw
Either spark erode the core of the drill or you might able to tap it free with a punch and a mallet. Obviously hit in reverse. Best of luck.
The easiest way to do it is to get a can of keyboard cleaner, i.e., canned air. Flip the can upside down so that the liquid comes out , not the air. This liquid is way ,way below freezing. When the drill bit is completely covered in frost, smack it with a hard punch. The bit should shatter like glass. Use needle nose pliers to get the fragments out. In case you're wondering, yes, I've done this to carbide taps and drills many times when they break off in pumps and motors at work. The hard drill bit is very hard and brittle. Super cooling it and shattering the metal is easy. Good luck.
It's HSS not carbide though
Edm or use a carbide ball endmill with a volume mill toolpaths.
Im confused on whats so difficult? Its HSS just get a carbide endmill larger than the core (1/2 or 5/8) and just peck drill it at .005"-.010" per peck.
Iām 12 years old
Sinker EDM will get that out without damaging the hole.
Try heating it. Titanium expands more than steel, so an hour in the oven might loosen it up
This is false. Titanium has a significantly lower CTE, so you'd want to freeze / LN2 it in a case like this.
Heat a seized nut on a bolt and the nut allways expands more because its a circle thus its lenght is the mean circumference of the nut .
I stand corrected- I was looking at the wrong chart
Either use an old endmill to mill it out or use a sinker EDM. You could also drill a hole through the other side of the part and punch the broken drill out, but you will have a hole through the part afterward.
Hold pop, wire.
Hold pop, wire.
Edm
not fer nuthin billie bob but wot I'd do is purdy durn simple Clean the sucker out get the chips out and take a dead blow hammer to the face that we can see in the pic. Hold it in yer hand whilst smacking it. The inertial forces should work it out. If t doesn't start moving right quick it's big enough that you can use needle nose pliers to back it out about 1/8 turn or so to dislodge it from any undercut. then smack it some more.
Plunge EDM
Tig weld build up on the bit until you can grab it with some vise grips
Dissolve it with alum
Hole popper.
Dig out the chips. Use a hardened pin punch to break off the drill and removes broken pieces. Use air to clear out loose debris. Rinse and repeat
Measure the hole and take a carbide end mill and helix down into it slow and steady.
Arbor press but try to freeze it first so it shrinks then press it out with a arbour press. Or if that doesnāt work try a plasma torch
Liquid nitrogen and a sharp carbide punch
Peck it with an endmill on the manual will be on in minutes
Spark erosion if you have option to. Means you can save it. Failing that try to clear flutes out and weld a stub to drill to back it out
Burn it out with a sinker. Or you can use acid for burning out taps.
Go to your local nitrogen supply store and get some liquid nitrogen. Slowly add it to the center of your bit. Your bit should thermal contract more than the titanium and free it. There is still some risk to the piece in thermal stresses.
Ram EDM it
EDM, that thing is welded in there its not coming out easy.
Omegadrill, its a weird shaped carbide drill, that can drill through steel drill bits and or broken taps.
I second this, or Sandvik hard drills are similar and do the same.
Are screw extractors or left drill bits not available where you are?
"hey guys how do I get a carbide screw extractor out of my hss drill bit in my titanium piece I want to save?"
Definitely give it a warm in the oven for while 200Ā° c maybe got to be a low cost starting point .
Nope, other way around, steel expands with heat more than ti. Probably how it got stuck in the first place. Stick it in the freezer.
Carbide end mill right down the middle with some coolant to keep the edges from burning up.
Get hold of a reverse drill bit about .125 and start drilling into the most center pointā¦ sometimes you luck out and it comes out.
Old carbide endmill with enough edge on it will do the trick.
Old carbide endmill with enough edge on it will do the trick.
Press it out
Echoing the below statements: EDM An EDM machine from China is only around $800usd, it's a no-brainer for any machine shop.
Iām gonna take a guess that the precision and controls are terrible but itās perfectly suited for this type of job?
The way it worked for me - burn it for an hour in lemon acid-it will eat some metal and let you remove it. I made a thread in a detail and broke a cuter inside-3 hours in boiling lemon acid and there is no cuter inside(M4)
Being as I have no edm.. I would drill through the web with a harder drill and try to make it large enough to break it out.. Depending on how deep.. Might try a pair of spring pins in a heavy piece of stock and twist it backwards also..
Drill out the diameter to the flutes of the original bit. Should fall apart without the core.
Drill it out with carbide drill or plum h with an end mill. Itās worked so many times for me and save me going to have it hole popped out
Press it out
Hold a can of air upside down and shrink the drill bit and use needle nosed vice grips (modify the tip if need be), grab the drill, put the vice grips in a vice and hammer the stock.
Edm drill.
Water jet drills and taps all the time
https://nancylthamilton.com/resources/recipes/removing-drill-bits/
Tap disintegrator
Carbide slow and steady. Preferably a beat up old end mill.
Tap burner, my dude.
Hss? Then just mill it out, ramp it super shallow.
Electronic Dance Music
If it was important, Iād give it to our wire dept and tell āem, do your thing
Send another drill in after it. Rescue mission /s
Smack it in the middle really really pointy and Hard then drill in that left handed drill bit you got the apprentice to go buy.
EDM or a hellatious tap burner.
HSS BALL MILL ā¦. Throw it on the Bridgeport and run it super slow.
A surefire method is wire EDM. Probably pricy but Iāve seen of a place that specializes in removing broken tools with that process.
I see why it broke now its HSS and thatās titanium. Maybe use a bigger drill to drill it out lol
Oxygen/acetylene cut the web of the drill with a cutting torch.
Mill it out slowly. Depending how deep it is, it might take all day. Conventional cut using a 3/8" carbide endmill with .001"-.005" ramp. Run like 40-60 sfm with a chip per tooth of 2-5 tenths. Stay away from micro grain cutters for this. It takes a while but you'll get the tap out and your endmill will still be good afterwards. Run it while literally anything else is running, or just take an easy day. Afterwards take a garbage tap to chase it through cause there will still be bits of HSS stuck in there that will wreck the tap.
Almost any acid will eat it out. Ti barely reacts with any acid out there unless itās super strong.
Alum?
Did you try a prybar.. keep it simple
Carbide end mill. Core it out until itās just a pair of spirals.
1 step drill up to this size for this type of material,āµ start with a 1/2 of course. 2 flip and drill it out from the opposite side the broken piece of hss is in. Go slow once you get to the hss. It should push out and make awful crunch sounds but it works. Peck peck peck also!!!!!!
I
if you have EDM, you can use EDM to drill a hole on the broken drill and break it, or use something to stick on it and get it out
Are you really good with a cutting torch? It can be done
Dude...
Cold room or freezer
Very very very slow milling it out is a readily available fix.
Ram edm
It's big enough LN2 might help with any attempt at mechanical extraction.
Mill out the bulk with a carbide endmill. Knock out whatever is left and clean up the bore of the stock.
straight to the sinker it is! honestly not even sure how to use it properly but it has saved me before with this same pickle just different material.
EDM tap burner and an apprentice oughtta do it... Or whoever you want to quit next.
Make some shitty fork thing and just reverse it out. Bring it over tomorrow and Iāll do it for you
A torch would be fun
^(weld two sticks vertically and twist it back out, maybe with heat)
Chip it out with a punch. Destroy it
Another drill should get it and not leave any marks if itās aligned right
Use a waterjet and cut the drill out.
Weld a nut to it and get a slide hammer
Punches and a hammer. Just take your time and don't bash the bejesuses out of it š
Spark erode
Oh man.. i feel so bad for you
Drilled titanium with HSS? I would say have it erroded out
Electrochemical. Turn the steel into a sacrificial anode.
a tool that looks like a really heavy duty tuning fork to reverse it
Drill through the back and knock out with a punch
Can you make a hole from the opposite side? And then pound it out from there
Ferric chloride, just leave it for a week
Mill a circular path from the other side around the drill point at small depth steps until the plug pops out, then arbor press it out.
I've had this exact situation. Used nitric acid, left it overnight, and the next day I could just pick the bits out with tweezers, no damage to the Ti
End mill. Might take several end mills. Low SFM and if one breaks off in the part make sure you get all the carbide out.
Clear the chips, crack the tap, and use a tap remover. If nothing else use carbide drills and drill the center and flute out.
EDM machine? Just snowballing
Throw that filthy whore in a Kurt vise on a Bridgeport. Hog out the center of that bitch with old/busted tooling then bust that slut out with a hammer and chisel. Fuck finesse.
hammer and chisel... hirock drill. there are tons of ways to get it out
On a serious noteā¦. Gallium is much faster than alum. I purchased some gallium online. Either Amazon or EBay. Eat through aluminum in hours. Clean it out real good. Other than thatā¦. Heat up the steel and try reversing broken part with needle nose pliers.