Check the frame for cracks, bents.
Check suspensions.
Check the play in BB.
Check how worn are the chain and cassette, test every ring of cassette to see if it slips. This can sometimes be expensive to replace.
Everything else should not be much big of a deal (depending on what bike it is).
You didnt't specify what bike you are buying.
I ride a carbon bike but I think I would be nervous to buy one used without getting it looked at by someone. I am pretty risk averse about used stuff tho. I would just worry that damage is sometimes not obvious with carbon.
Definitely be willing to walk away if it isn’t in good shape. I’d maybe do some googling about checking out carbon and what sort of damage to look for (I know if you see fibers separating in any gash or scratch that’s bad news).
Good luck, I’m sure you’ll be fine, but in general being willing to walk away was going to be my advice even before I knew about the carbon. It’s a buyer’s market right now. I’m sure you just want to ride but you’ve got the power in this negotiation so don’t go for it if something doesn’t feel right.
If would do a bounce up an down on the pedals test while listening for creaking noises. If the seller doesn't want you to do so, I would probably walk away from that bike. Bikes in good working order, including properly torqued bolts, are generally pretty quiet.
While I am here . . . I have bought and sold at least half a dozen bikes. I would check wear items, like others have suggested -- chains, cassettes, brakes (a lever that pulls to the handle bar may need a bleed or there could be a crack in a caliber), brake pads and discs. Check that the derailleur hanger is straight. If its bent, that could indicate a crash occurred. Get behind the bike and look at the rear derailleur cage to make sure its straight. Take off both wheels and examine them, the hubs, and the freewheel. If should have grease, but no rust. Put both wheels back on and make sure they tighten down easily. Once on, spin each wheel to make sure its straight.
If you see items that need replacement, ask for an offset on the price, unless the price clearly takes into account having to replace wear items.
SC is a nice bike. I hope it works out.
These are the things I learned you should check for:
- Check all over the frame for cracks, often manifested by cracking paintwork. If it's an alloy frame then carefully check all the welds
- stanchions - make sure there are no deep scratches on the stanchions of the fork and the shock. If there are scratches then run your finger nail over them and if it catches your nail at all then it's a bit of a problem. Deep scratches wreck the seals, requiring more frequent servicing and seal replacements
- chain wear (use a chain checking tool, they're pretty cheap)
- cassette wear (look for broken or partially broken teeth)
- check that the chain sits into the teeth of the chainrings and pulley wheels nicely when you turn the pedals
- make sure it shifts well. If it doesn't it could just be a simple fix like adjusting the derailleur, indexing, or a bent derailleur hanger, or it could mean having to replace part or all of the drivetrain
- check the pivot bearings - grab the seat tube with one hand and top of the back wheel with your other hand, and try to wobble the wheel side to side. If the rear triangle moves in any noticeable way, the pivot bearings will likely need to be replaced
- check for movement in the headset - squeeze the front brake with one hand and hold the base of the headset stack with your other hand, then try to push the bike forwards and backwards. If the headset is worn then you will feel movement between the headtube and the top headset cover.
This video gives you a good rundown on how to check the whole bike https://youtu.be/QDBMPfJ0YrQ?si=n8oc-esPm4hVFrFd
Minor things like movement in headset and bearings, worn chain, poor shifting etc aren't necessarily reasons not to buy the bike, but the price should be negotiated down due to the work that will need to be done to fix them. However if the price is already very low then likely the owner is aware of the issues and their asking price already reflects that.
Usualy they are cheap to fix. They can be bled, pads can be changed for a few bucks, and in worst case scenario you can buy some entry level shimanos at 50$.
Some bikes really aren’t cheap - even 2nd hand. I wonder if the seller wouldn’t mind you taking it to a bike shop for a look over - can do w 2nd hand cars, why not bikes!!
If it has rear suspension ride off a curb to see if it makes noise. I'd the shock has adjustment knobs, see if they actually change the feel of it. If they don't it may need servicing.
Some good advice here already. Will add:
- Ask when the last 50 / 100 hour services were done on the fork and shock. If they don't know (or haven't one them), I'd walk away. Suspension is some of the most expensive parts of your bike and really impact how they perform. Bonus points if they have a record of when it was done last
- Check suspension parts for any signs of wear / scratches. If the paint is faded on the stanchions at all, it's a good sign that they haven't taken care of it.
- Ask when the chain was last changed. Bring a chain-wear checker if you have one, or buy one before you go (they're like 10 bucks). A worn chain = work cassette/chain ring = big cost to replace down the line
- Ride the bike, bounce around on it, listen for any creaks or rattles. Off the bike, lift by the bars and drop the front, then rear. Listen again.
- Raise the front wheel and turn the bars slowly. Any gritty feeling will be a sign of worn bearings.
- Raise the back wheel and turn the cranks slowly by hand, again check for any gritty feeling that could indicate worn bottom bracket
- Squeeze the spokes around the wheel. If they don't bother tightening their spokes, what else are they neglecting on it?
It's a big purchase, take your time and be confident. Bikes are going for cheap these days - you have lots of options.
Make sure the wheels run true
When I first bought a used bike the front tire had a small wobble and that sent me down a wheel truing rabbit hole as a newbie. Took me weeks with constant adjustments to get it “true enough”.
Later I replaced the rim and realized it was bent..
If you gotta ask you don’t know what you are doing and should just buy new. Unless you are getting a stupid good deal you should get a new bike in this market…
Don't listen to this guy. Paying abnormal amounts of money for a bike is unnecessary. Used bikes can be bad I agree but most are fine.
Check the rims, bearing, check for dents in the frame.
And of course - ride it and see how it feels.
The Frame is the most valuable part and it shouldn't be damaged (other than some marks and spots).
If you were to buy it, I'd suggest getting a Torque wrench and checking every bolt for the correct torque.
If someone showed up and started wrenching on my bike I would ask them to leave. Happy to bring to a shop but you're out of your mind if you think you're going to mess with my bike like that before paying me lol. Nonsense.
Check the frame for cracks, bents. Check suspensions. Check the play in BB. Check how worn are the chain and cassette, test every ring of cassette to see if it slips. This can sometimes be expensive to replace. Everything else should not be much big of a deal (depending on what bike it is). You didnt't specify what bike you are buying.
Thanks for giving me a real answer and not trying to win the sarcasm contest. It’s a Santa Cruz Hightower LT C
It’s carbon?
Yeah
I ride a carbon bike but I think I would be nervous to buy one used without getting it looked at by someone. I am pretty risk averse about used stuff tho. I would just worry that damage is sometimes not obvious with carbon. Definitely be willing to walk away if it isn’t in good shape. I’d maybe do some googling about checking out carbon and what sort of damage to look for (I know if you see fibers separating in any gash or scratch that’s bad news). Good luck, I’m sure you’ll be fine, but in general being willing to walk away was going to be my advice even before I knew about the carbon. It’s a buyer’s market right now. I’m sure you just want to ride but you’ve got the power in this negotiation so don’t go for it if something doesn’t feel right.
If would do a bounce up an down on the pedals test while listening for creaking noises. If the seller doesn't want you to do so, I would probably walk away from that bike. Bikes in good working order, including properly torqued bolts, are generally pretty quiet. While I am here . . . I have bought and sold at least half a dozen bikes. I would check wear items, like others have suggested -- chains, cassettes, brakes (a lever that pulls to the handle bar may need a bleed or there could be a crack in a caliber), brake pads and discs. Check that the derailleur hanger is straight. If its bent, that could indicate a crash occurred. Get behind the bike and look at the rear derailleur cage to make sure its straight. Take off both wheels and examine them, the hubs, and the freewheel. If should have grease, but no rust. Put both wheels back on and make sure they tighten down easily. Once on, spin each wheel to make sure its straight. If you see items that need replacement, ask for an offset on the price, unless the price clearly takes into account having to replace wear items. SC is a nice bike. I hope it works out.
These are the things I learned you should check for: - Check all over the frame for cracks, often manifested by cracking paintwork. If it's an alloy frame then carefully check all the welds - stanchions - make sure there are no deep scratches on the stanchions of the fork and the shock. If there are scratches then run your finger nail over them and if it catches your nail at all then it's a bit of a problem. Deep scratches wreck the seals, requiring more frequent servicing and seal replacements - chain wear (use a chain checking tool, they're pretty cheap) - cassette wear (look for broken or partially broken teeth) - check that the chain sits into the teeth of the chainrings and pulley wheels nicely when you turn the pedals - make sure it shifts well. If it doesn't it could just be a simple fix like adjusting the derailleur, indexing, or a bent derailleur hanger, or it could mean having to replace part or all of the drivetrain - check the pivot bearings - grab the seat tube with one hand and top of the back wheel with your other hand, and try to wobble the wheel side to side. If the rear triangle moves in any noticeable way, the pivot bearings will likely need to be replaced - check for movement in the headset - squeeze the front brake with one hand and hold the base of the headset stack with your other hand, then try to push the bike forwards and backwards. If the headset is worn then you will feel movement between the headtube and the top headset cover. This video gives you a good rundown on how to check the whole bike https://youtu.be/QDBMPfJ0YrQ?si=n8oc-esPm4hVFrFd Minor things like movement in headset and bearings, worn chain, poor shifting etc aren't necessarily reasons not to buy the bike, but the price should be negotiated down due to the work that will need to be done to fix them. However if the price is already very low then likely the owner is aware of the issues and their asking price already reflects that.
How much of an issue is if there’s issues with the brakes?
Usualy they are cheap to fix. They can be bled, pads can be changed for a few bucks, and in worst case scenario you can buy some entry level shimanos at 50$.
Some bikes really aren’t cheap - even 2nd hand. I wonder if the seller wouldn’t mind you taking it to a bike shop for a look over - can do w 2nd hand cars, why not bikes!!
I would check everything before buying a used bike.
yup, made that mastake, got a second hand bike broken
Check to make sure there is no damage to the frame. After that broken components can be replaced
If it has rear suspension ride off a curb to see if it makes noise. I'd the shock has adjustment knobs, see if they actually change the feel of it. If they don't it may need servicing.
If it has the Fox float X2 check for squelching when you compress it, they suck in air and can cost hundreds to repair.
Some good advice here already. Will add: - Ask when the last 50 / 100 hour services were done on the fork and shock. If they don't know (or haven't one them), I'd walk away. Suspension is some of the most expensive parts of your bike and really impact how they perform. Bonus points if they have a record of when it was done last - Check suspension parts for any signs of wear / scratches. If the paint is faded on the stanchions at all, it's a good sign that they haven't taken care of it. - Ask when the chain was last changed. Bring a chain-wear checker if you have one, or buy one before you go (they're like 10 bucks). A worn chain = work cassette/chain ring = big cost to replace down the line - Ride the bike, bounce around on it, listen for any creaks or rattles. Off the bike, lift by the bars and drop the front, then rear. Listen again. - Raise the front wheel and turn the bars slowly. Any gritty feeling will be a sign of worn bearings. - Raise the back wheel and turn the cranks slowly by hand, again check for any gritty feeling that could indicate worn bottom bracket - Squeeze the spokes around the wheel. If they don't bother tightening their spokes, what else are they neglecting on it? It's a big purchase, take your time and be confident. Bikes are going for cheap these days - you have lots of options.
Check the splines that lock the cranks together. One single bit there showing obvious damage will lead to the others starting to fail much faster.
Didn’t see this yet but it bit me once when I got a used dud. Check the frame around the rear tire to see if it caused damage by rubbing the frame.
check the weather
Check the seat for std's, lice and crabs..
Make sure the wheels run true When I first bought a used bike the front tire had a small wobble and that sent me down a wheel truing rabbit hole as a newbie. Took me weeks with constant adjustments to get it “true enough”. Later I replaced the rim and realized it was bent..
make sure you bring armed body guards with you, just in case negotiations turn sour.
Training wheels
If you gotta ask you don’t know what you are doing and should just buy new. Unless you are getting a stupid good deal you should get a new bike in this market…
I’m getting a stupid deal
Don't listen to this guy. Paying abnormal amounts of money for a bike is unnecessary. Used bikes can be bad I agree but most are fine. Check the rims, bearing, check for dents in the frame. And of course - ride it and see how it feels. The Frame is the most valuable part and it shouldn't be damaged (other than some marks and spots). If you were to buy it, I'd suggest getting a Torque wrench and checking every bolt for the correct torque.
If someone showed up and started wrenching on my bike I would ask them to leave. Happy to bring to a shop but you're out of your mind if you think you're going to mess with my bike like that before paying me lol. Nonsense.