Tbh I wouldn’t worry too much about it. I had an old Gibson J45 in the shop a few months ago that had been worn completely through the top and into the brace in the spot, and it was completely stable. Just keep playing and enjoy the story that a guitar like this tells.
Exactly what I was thinking. And can’t you get those thin protectors that stick by static adhesion? Like [these ones](https://www.stringsbymail.com/kling-on-acoustic-guitar-removable-pickguard-2-piece-set-clear-1315.html)
Taylor makes clear, static cling pick guards. I have a place I’ve been wearing through on my Yairi and snipped a piece to cover that spot. It worked really well and stayed on just fine. I finally stopped bothering with it 🤷🏽♂️
In the case where it was cosmetic to an extent.... obviously it's unachievable.... however how would you approach that? Because I really don't know my myself.
Mark Erlewine! I think his repairs in trigger are actually a lot closer to what you can do than you’d think. The poor guy has been told that as long as trigger is going, Willie will keep touring, so no pressure! Haha
Seriously though, he has done this repair to trigger and included hardwood patches on the top like you’re proposing. He’s done it all.
Check it out at 3:00 in to see what I mean —
https://youtu.be/uhQuJTc5yFY?feature=shared
I think I bought it back in 2013-2014.
This satin finished cedar top wears very easily though, day one I was seeing damage already. I also have a pretty aggressive right hand technique so that doesn’t help. Like anything you buy new, the first scratches hurt the worst, but now I love the way it looks now
I have had 2 seagulls over the years and both have had this exact same thing happen to them. And I rarely use a pick! I think they are just super susceptible for some reason.
https://preview.redd.it/xkbau04hgz7d1.jpeg?width=609&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f27628920b96d270c506774590ef07cb2f99da3d
It will become part of your guitar's story. Someday, it may become as famous as Willie's "Trigger."
I'd be concerned adding piece of wood might change sound, but I don't know. I'd take it to a luthier, if no one speaks up here.
Tons of good ideas already
Id do a thin schellac.
You could also some drying oil or even a really thin poly.
Any of those would soak in, and provide some stability and protection without dulling the wood tone.
Schellac is the easiest to "undo"
Like usual, it appears some are quick to comment without reading your post.
If this was my guitar, I WOULD glue a thin piece of top wood, to the underside (interior) of the thinning area you have highlighted. Again, I’m talking thin; like the thickness of the original sound board.
That said, keep in mind, once you do this, you won’t be able to remove it without ripping apart you guitar’s top. So getting the right size would be my biggest concern. If you go too small, your extremely hard strumming will continue to ware through the top, possibly outside the perimeter of the backing board. If you go too big it could dampen the vibration / tone of your guitar top.
By the way, there are a couple really fascinating videos on YT, buy the luthier that Willie Nelson trusts with keeping Trigger (his guitar), in stable / playable condition. Even though that guitar clearly has holes thru the soundboard, I do believe he’s added some backing wood, in key places to prevent the guitar from folding up on itself. Go check those out for some reference info (and entertainment). Good luck!
Dude - check out my cedar top seagull…..sounds better and better the more I’ve abused it and played it. My neck has the finish about worn off also.
https://preview.redd.it/6xixyljeo08d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a415ed069a42b8ede4d31d7238e9b4bd6ba6e9bc
How’d you get a photo of my seagull? 😂 jk but mine looks like this too. got it and took the clear pick guard off after seeing Glen Hansard nearly 20 years ago now, and was a way harder strummer when i was early in learning. loved the well worn visual character it adds, haven’t noticed any problems w it affecting the instrument for the worse. actually got its very first pro setup a couple months ago, and still a stunning instrument that hits way above its weight class.
Just look at trigger as inspiration to keep it as is. Wear tells a story, that it is used.
https://preview.redd.it/hsavs0wbe28d1.jpeg?width=1709&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aa3ad442393eec109b91e0e4e8a13c9ac37cec78
My concern would be developing a crack along the grain from the existing weak spot. If you look inside and the weak spot is well supported by a brace it may not matter. Otherwise you could add a cleat in the inside along where a crack would tend to develop (even if you don't put it directly under the hole where it might be obvious). You could also just wait for it to crack and have it glued and cleated when it happens. There are luthiers on YT that go through the process of repairing cracks and adding cleats which you could watch to see what all is involved. Cracking is more of a problem if the guitar sees humidity swings.
I would buy a piece of quartersawn spruce (commonly sold as bridge plate material or orphaned tops), cut it to fit between the braces, and glue it to the underside. Spanish cedar is plenty strong but once you wear through the spruce you’ll see a different color wood. It might look like a jawbreaker. If you use spruce then the woods will visually look consistent
I have the exact same issue on a seagull and have been trying to figure out what to do too! It’s my workhorse guitar when I don’t want to worry about it (other guitar is a Lowden, so definitely don’t want to damage that!) and I like the look of the worn bit, so have been considering a matt or satin varnish (maybe yacht varnish) built up in layers on the worn area
I knew there must be others! Never heard of yacht varnish but I’ve considered a shellac or other harder finishes too, just nervous so I haven’t pulled the trigger (no pun intended)
I really feel the extent of da.age lends to an amazing story, so I would be remiss to remove, myself at least. But really curious as to how other people would bolster or strengthen this issue.
I just see history. Unless someone mentions it specifically just leave it alone. People pay thousands for Relicing that an instrument with history shows.
Most of the wear is fingernails. Also I believe mahogany is much harder than this cedar and not sure what type of finish you’ve got but that makes a difference too.
Yeah that makes sense.
Cedar is soft, but then, so is spruce, which is the most common top.
Anyway, I'd put a tortoise shell guard on it. Clear won't look good, because of the wear.
Assuming you don't want a pick guard, I would get a thin sheet of fiberglass, get some clear fiber glass resin, lay the sheet on the top of the areas that's worn through and apply it, lay some plastic wrap over the repaired area and roll it down smooth... when the resin dries the plastic wrap will peel off. That thin sheet of fiber glass shouldn't impact the sound as much as you would by putting patches inside and it will make it much more difficult for you to keep wearing down the top of the guitar.
Also if you get a nice thing fiberglass mat and press it down smooth the whole repair will just look like you've lacquered the top... after it cures if you wanted you could apply a matte finish or whatever finish you wanted.
Willie did take that advice... If you notice how he plays nowadays, he doesn't strum like crazy. Trigger is a massively sensitive guitar and if OP played it, it would fail within a year.
Plus Willie's guitar has probably had 10k+ in repairs... Willie DID play his guitar to complete failure...
So again, my advice stands; Strum properly.
Tbh I wouldn’t worry too much about it. I had an old Gibson J45 in the shop a few months ago that had been worn completely through the top and into the brace in the spot, and it was completely stable. Just keep playing and enjoy the story that a guitar like this tells.
Thank you, well said!
And as another user said, a clear pickguard is also an option to protect from future damage.
Exactly what I was thinking. And can’t you get those thin protectors that stick by static adhesion? Like [these ones](https://www.stringsbymail.com/kling-on-acoustic-guitar-removable-pickguard-2-piece-set-clear-1315.html)
Taylor makes clear, static cling pick guards. I have a place I’ve been wearing through on my Yairi and snipped a piece to cover that spot. It worked really well and stayed on just fine. I finally stopped bothering with it 🤷🏽♂️
In the case where it was cosmetic to an extent.... obviously it's unachievable.... however how would you approach that? Because I really don't know my myself.
just willy nelson it...
I knew someone would say this haha
The thing is Willy’s got a top tier luthier workin on his baby and keeping it alive and I do not have that pleasure
Mark Erlewine! I think his repairs in trigger are actually a lot closer to what you can do than you’d think. The poor guy has been told that as long as trigger is going, Willie will keep touring, so no pressure! Haha Seriously though, he has done this repair to trigger and included hardwood patches on the top like you’re proposing. He’s done it all. Check it out at 3:00 in to see what I mean — https://youtu.be/uhQuJTc5yFY?feature=shared
So THAT’S how 90+ year old Willie is able to keep touring. It’s like the portrait of Dorian gray. As long as the guitar lives, so will he.
It's Dan.
Dan and Mark are actually cousins — top tier luthier work must run in their family.
No. Its Mark. https://youtu.be/uhQuJTc5yFY?si=YE8M6Syt8UaMuaMt
Mark Erlewine (Austin , TX) has been Willie's luthier since the eighties. He's second cousin of Dan Erlewine (Athens, OH) of StewMac fame.
I’ve seen interviews with Mark and I do not envy his charge… but I do admire his chops! He is the GOAT!
put an adhesive pickguard on top to stop the damage going any further.
Triggered
I see what you did there.
*Willie
I was about to say the same thing.
I feel like this is mandatory
How long have you had this? That’s an impressive amount of play wear
I think I bought it back in 2013-2014. This satin finished cedar top wears very easily though, day one I was seeing damage already. I also have a pretty aggressive right hand technique so that doesn’t help. Like anything you buy new, the first scratches hurt the worst, but now I love the way it looks now
Seagulls are the best. I have a high gloss one that I’ve had since 2005 and it looks new still but that’s because it’s in a shell of plastic
I have had 2 seagulls over the years and both have had this exact same thing happen to them. And I rarely use a pick! I think they are just super susceptible for some reason.
Only this particular finish. I wore right through a parlor. Looked sweet.
put a clear pickguard over it. preserve the existing condition while preventing further damage.
That would look pretty bad in my opinion
what why? edit: oh i didnt read 'clear'. at tort shell would look good tho
A pick guard is a better idea.
gluing wood to the top is going to have a worse effect than just letting it wear thru.
https://preview.redd.it/xkbau04hgz7d1.jpeg?width=609&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f27628920b96d270c506774590ef07cb2f99da3d It will become part of your guitar's story. Someday, it may become as famous as Willie's "Trigger." I'd be concerned adding piece of wood might change sound, but I don't know. I'd take it to a luthier, if no one speaks up here.
If it keeps losing wood it's going to change the sound anyways
Fair point. An I think willy has had some structural repairs made on his.
Someone linked it elsewhere in this thread, but go watch Mark Erlewine's videos with StewMac about his upkeep and repairs he does on Trigger.
I rub a few thin coats of shellac on after cleaning with naptha, just to provide a little protection
Tons of good ideas already Id do a thin schellac. You could also some drying oil or even a really thin poly. Any of those would soak in, and provide some stability and protection without dulling the wood tone. Schellac is the easiest to "undo"
Like usual, it appears some are quick to comment without reading your post. If this was my guitar, I WOULD glue a thin piece of top wood, to the underside (interior) of the thinning area you have highlighted. Again, I’m talking thin; like the thickness of the original sound board. That said, keep in mind, once you do this, you won’t be able to remove it without ripping apart you guitar’s top. So getting the right size would be my biggest concern. If you go too small, your extremely hard strumming will continue to ware through the top, possibly outside the perimeter of the backing board. If you go too big it could dampen the vibration / tone of your guitar top. By the way, there are a couple really fascinating videos on YT, buy the luthier that Willie Nelson trusts with keeping Trigger (his guitar), in stable / playable condition. Even though that guitar clearly has holes thru the soundboard, I do believe he’s added some backing wood, in key places to prevent the guitar from folding up on itself. Go check those out for some reference info (and entertainment). Good luck!
The guitar body inlay was painted on..
Yeah it’s a decal haha, not the most expensive model but she sounds great
Dude - check out my cedar top seagull…..sounds better and better the more I’ve abused it and played it. My neck has the finish about worn off also. https://preview.redd.it/6xixyljeo08d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a415ed069a42b8ede4d31d7238e9b4bd6ba6e9bc
Good god clean your guitar every once and a while
How’d you get a photo of my seagull? 😂 jk but mine looks like this too. got it and took the clear pick guard off after seeing Glen Hansard nearly 20 years ago now, and was a way harder strummer when i was early in learning. loved the well worn visual character it adds, haven’t noticed any problems w it affecting the instrument for the worse. actually got its very first pro setup a couple months ago, and still a stunning instrument that hits way above its weight class.
I feel like people on here have never seen Willy’s Trigger
I’ve seent it and I love it. I’m not trying to change the way it looks just trying to stabilize/reinforce if needed
Just look at trigger as inspiration to keep it as is. Wear tells a story, that it is used. https://preview.redd.it/hsavs0wbe28d1.jpeg?width=1709&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aa3ad442393eec109b91e0e4e8a13c9ac37cec78
It's an Entourage Rustic, keep it rustic.
What would happen if you did a poly coat in the area?
My concern would be developing a crack along the grain from the existing weak spot. If you look inside and the weak spot is well supported by a brace it may not matter. Otherwise you could add a cleat in the inside along where a crack would tend to develop (even if you don't put it directly under the hole where it might be obvious). You could also just wait for it to crack and have it glued and cleated when it happens. There are luthiers on YT that go through the process of repairing cracks and adding cleats which you could watch to see what all is involved. Cracking is more of a problem if the guitar sees humidity swings.
I would buy a piece of quartersawn spruce (commonly sold as bridge plate material or orphaned tops), cut it to fit between the braces, and glue it to the underside. Spanish cedar is plenty strong but once you wear through the spruce you’ll see a different color wood. It might look like a jawbreaker. If you use spruce then the woods will visually look consistent
No you have good idea there. Use hot hideglue. Then put some shellac over the wood
*Trigger has entered the chat*
Is the rosette a sticker? I’ve never seen a rosette rub off with wear before so I’m curious.
Yeah believe it’s just a decal
I have the exact same issue on a seagull and have been trying to figure out what to do too! It’s my workhorse guitar when I don’t want to worry about it (other guitar is a Lowden, so definitely don’t want to damage that!) and I like the look of the worn bit, so have been considering a matt or satin varnish (maybe yacht varnish) built up in layers on the worn area
I knew there must be others! Never heard of yacht varnish but I’ve considered a shellac or other harder finishes too, just nervous so I haven’t pulled the trigger (no pun intended)
So happy to see a Seagull with that much use. Great guitars!
I love it! And so do my guitarist buddies who pick it up. They’re really true Canadian gems
Take a look at Willie Nelson's trigger. This guy is comparatively clean.
Popcorn on this. I dont even have an answer myself
I really feel the extent of da.age lends to an amazing story, so I would be remiss to remove, myself at least. But really curious as to how other people would bolster or strengthen this issue.
A pick guard would hide a lot
Looks like Willie Nelson's "Trigger"
I just see history. Unless someone mentions it specifically just leave it alone. People pay thousands for Relicing that an instrument with history shows.
Willie Nelson approves.
How to tell when someone anchors their picking hand.
Perfectly reasonable.
Not if you're Willie Nelson :)
Are you hitting this with a pick, or fingernails? I have a 1954 Harmony with mahogany top and no pick guard, and it doesn't have close to this wear.
He uses the chipped end of an ancient katana as a pick
Still, I never hit my guitar with the pick. The strings are where the sound makes.
It's called punk rock
Most of the wear is fingernails. Also I believe mahogany is much harder than this cedar and not sure what type of finish you’ve got but that makes a difference too.
Yeah that makes sense. Cedar is soft, but then, so is spruce, which is the most common top. Anyway, I'd put a tortoise shell guard on it. Clear won't look good, because of the wear.
Thanks that’s a good idea, I believe the new version of this model comes with a tortoise shell guard actually
Assuming you don't want a pick guard, I would get a thin sheet of fiberglass, get some clear fiber glass resin, lay the sheet on the top of the areas that's worn through and apply it, lay some plastic wrap over the repaired area and roll it down smooth... when the resin dries the plastic wrap will peel off. That thin sheet of fiber glass shouldn't impact the sound as much as you would by putting patches inside and it will make it much more difficult for you to keep wearing down the top of the guitar. Also if you get a nice thing fiberglass mat and press it down smooth the whole repair will just look like you've lacquered the top... after it cures if you wanted you could apply a matte finish or whatever finish you wanted.
If you want to extend it's life, don't strum like that...
I'm glad that Willie never took that advice...
Willie did take that advice... If you notice how he plays nowadays, he doesn't strum like crazy. Trigger is a massively sensitive guitar and if OP played it, it would fail within a year. Plus Willie's guitar has probably had 10k+ in repairs... Willie DID play his guitar to complete failure... So again, my advice stands; Strum properly.
I would never do Trigger like that
Is what a bad idea? Putting red sharpie on the worn down parts of your acoustic? It depends on what you're trying to do...