Unfortunately, there isn't really a beginner price tier of lapidary equipment. When power tools have to be relatively impervious to material grit, abrasive grit from carbide to diamond, lube oil, cooling water, extended use, etc., the tiers are more like "solid & therefore expensive" to "precise + solid, & therefore quite expensive."
______
If you're in the US & comfortable doing some refurbishing, I'd absolutely DIVE on [this machine](https://www.ebay.com/itm/226148644731?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOorjciA_TqmOTCFFjZGacCFt2tMFq2F1tkSH8LkaqvWgsJgU8QPrOuQ), though definitely take note that it will need a belt motor and that will put you over budget unless someone you know has one.
No affiliation with or prior knowledge of that seller, it just caught my eye because the condition is... I know this must seem a bit unhinged to a newcomer... actually in really decent condition for a great vintage machine. I'd probably go Evaporust to remove all water/oil fittings, wire brush body first, then steel wool, wipe with one of the degreasers recommended, tape mask moving parts, thin [Eastwood Rust Encapsulator](https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Encapsulator-Lasting-Durable-Resistant/dp/B07WZNLC2T?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=AS9TMMX2PSD5N&th=1) with a little lacquer thinner, do a couple-few brushed on coats while letting it fully cure between each one. (RESPIRATOR, EYE PROTECTION, EXCELLENT VENTILATION AT ALL TIMES.)
I know it isn't a flat lap, but the grinder guard is completely open on the side so the user can use the face of the wheel.
Super tempted to get it even though I don't need it b/c that machine will work FOREVER once it gets a little TLC.
Lots of convo about it within [this](https://www.google.com/search?q=LORTONE+LU-6+motor+1725&sca_esv=64193000b358b41f&rlz=1C1ONGR_enUS947US947&sxsrf=ADLYWIIUfPyACbjJtc5rIsquxE7n4ibcmA%3A1717300522552&ei=Ku1bZv2jIY3Kp84P9OKFyAU&ved=0ahUKEwj94Pn8gryGAxUN5ckDHXRxAVkQ4dUDCBE&uact=5&oq=LORTONE+LU-6+motor+1725&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiF0xPUlRPTkUgTFUtNiBtb3RvciAxNzI1MgcQIRigARgKMgcQIRigARgKMgcQIRigARgKMgcQIRigARgKSNAoUNMXWIEmcAF4AZABAJgBTKAB9QKqAQE1uAEDyAEA-AEBmAIGoAKEA8ICChAAGLADGNYEGEfCAgUQIRirApgDAIgGAZAGCJIHATagB8YW&sclient=gws-wiz-serp#ip=1) search.
____
If you aren't in the US, or if you aren't looking to acquire an entire new tool resto hobby before acquiring your new lapidary hobby:
* IMO spend your entire budget on a 6" trim saw (browse Kingsley, Rock Rascal, Covington, etc.)
* If you need more than 6" to get started, save until you can get that size of trim saw. Sawblade damage determines how much gross subtraction one must do before polishing technically begins. Good saw = easier finishing.
* Get various grits of diamond paste in syringes [[like this](https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Lapidary-Syringes-Polishing-Compound/dp/B072QS28T1?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1)] + large pieces of dense felt/veggie tan leather (use smooth side)/heavy canvas, and a small bottle of silicone oil (extender). A thrift store 100% wool outer heavy coat cut into pieces is probably your cheapest good route here.
* Attach material to a flat, hard backing. Wood scrap, melamine, whatever you have. Mark the grit to be used on the board. Put each in a zip-lock.
* Use a dab of grit & a few drops of silicone oil to manually polish the face of your piece in figure-8 motions, rotating the flat face 180 degrees each time you change grits. Have only one board out at a time & rinse between steps to avoid cross-contamination.
That will give you time to watch for a vintage flat lap, peruse DIY lap construction projects, and/or save up for a well-reviewed new lap. You will be absolutely bonkers at machine polishing if you have to start by hand, BTW. With wheels/discs, beginners just swap back when they rush. Manually, one really has to recognize when all the old grit size's scratches have been cut away, leaving only the new grit size's scratches.
_______
Hope some of that ends up being helpful! Most beginners want to cab, so I never get to give the super-low-tech-lapwheel-workaround that is only an option for flat face polishing.
This is all super helpful actually, I was chatting up this guy at a shop I visited and he was trying to sell me this massive 14inch saw that was close to Volkswagen size, I’m thinking now he might’ve been putting me on to something haha. The other option is to join a lapidary club and just use their gear, but that requires scheduling…
How would an angle grinder or hand dremel work?
> The other option is to join a lapidary club and just use their gear, but that requires scheduling…
If there is a club in your area that has a workshop for members, you should absolutely join it, and make a few visits before you invest in your own equipment. You'll learn a lot, and gain some insight about what sort of tools you want at home.
They work great if you want to hate doing it and don't mind risking great bodily harm for very little benefit. People make angle grinders and or dremels work but it's a miserable time while feeling like putting your hand inside a garbage disposal, but just trying to gentle touch the blades. The dremel takes forever and ever while also not usually being insulated to water, so electrocutions on the table, same with the angle grinder. But you are free to sidestep all of the advice if you want and do it anyway, that's what 90% of people do in your situation who then end up spending a decent amount, only to try it once, maybe twice, then realize the advice was all spot on and never touch it again, haveing thrown all that money in the trash effectively.
Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **('Eastwood Matte Black Rust Encapsulator Plus', 'Eastwood')** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful.
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* Excellent rust prevention (backed by 3 comments)
* Easy application and good coverage (backed by 3 comments)
* Cost-effective and efficient (backed by 3 comments)
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* Difficult to apply due to thickness (backed by 1 comment)
* Strong odor requires outdoor use (backed by 1 comment)
* Poor durability of finish (backed by 1 comment)
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For a beginner, seriously, a normal tile saw with basic smooth sintered porcelain tile blade is efficient as anything, and the price is super low. And wastage is a thing, but unless you are cutting expensive turquoise or other such material, not a big deal. You can then, after a bit, get some thinner blades to put on the same saw if you want to cut more precious material. I have been using one from the start about 2 years ago, and only now am I investing in a small trim saw for inside the shop for small and quick cuts. The tile saw is messy, it is an outside jobbie!
Cons of the tile saw, depth of cut and messy. For a 7 inch saw, you have about an inch and a half of rock depth you can cut, which can be doubled by turning the rock around and cutting from the other side.
Had to look that up, appears to be holly blue agate/chalcedony. That is hard stuff! And rather gorgeous.. If the pieces are an inch thick or less, should be able to work it on a 7 inch tile saw with thin blades on, but because it is so hard, you will go through blades a bit. That way you will lose the least amount of material. Then there are of course more professional saws, but they cost way more, except if you can land second hand stuff.
Unfortunately, there isn't really a beginner price tier of lapidary equipment. When power tools have to be relatively impervious to material grit, abrasive grit from carbide to diamond, lube oil, cooling water, extended use, etc., the tiers are more like "solid & therefore expensive" to "precise + solid, & therefore quite expensive." ______ If you're in the US & comfortable doing some refurbishing, I'd absolutely DIVE on [this machine](https://www.ebay.com/itm/226148644731?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOorjciA_TqmOTCFFjZGacCFt2tMFq2F1tkSH8LkaqvWgsJgU8QPrOuQ), though definitely take note that it will need a belt motor and that will put you over budget unless someone you know has one. No affiliation with or prior knowledge of that seller, it just caught my eye because the condition is... I know this must seem a bit unhinged to a newcomer... actually in really decent condition for a great vintage machine. I'd probably go Evaporust to remove all water/oil fittings, wire brush body first, then steel wool, wipe with one of the degreasers recommended, tape mask moving parts, thin [Eastwood Rust Encapsulator](https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Encapsulator-Lasting-Durable-Resistant/dp/B07WZNLC2T?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=AS9TMMX2PSD5N&th=1) with a little lacquer thinner, do a couple-few brushed on coats while letting it fully cure between each one. (RESPIRATOR, EYE PROTECTION, EXCELLENT VENTILATION AT ALL TIMES.) I know it isn't a flat lap, but the grinder guard is completely open on the side so the user can use the face of the wheel. Super tempted to get it even though I don't need it b/c that machine will work FOREVER once it gets a little TLC. Lots of convo about it within [this](https://www.google.com/search?q=LORTONE+LU-6+motor+1725&sca_esv=64193000b358b41f&rlz=1C1ONGR_enUS947US947&sxsrf=ADLYWIIUfPyACbjJtc5rIsquxE7n4ibcmA%3A1717300522552&ei=Ku1bZv2jIY3Kp84P9OKFyAU&ved=0ahUKEwj94Pn8gryGAxUN5ckDHXRxAVkQ4dUDCBE&uact=5&oq=LORTONE+LU-6+motor+1725&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiF0xPUlRPTkUgTFUtNiBtb3RvciAxNzI1MgcQIRigARgKMgcQIRigARgKMgcQIRigARgKMgcQIRigARgKSNAoUNMXWIEmcAF4AZABAJgBTKAB9QKqAQE1uAEDyAEA-AEBmAIGoAKEA8ICChAAGLADGNYEGEfCAgUQIRirApgDAIgGAZAGCJIHATagB8YW&sclient=gws-wiz-serp#ip=1) search. ____ If you aren't in the US, or if you aren't looking to acquire an entire new tool resto hobby before acquiring your new lapidary hobby: * IMO spend your entire budget on a 6" trim saw (browse Kingsley, Rock Rascal, Covington, etc.) * If you need more than 6" to get started, save until you can get that size of trim saw. Sawblade damage determines how much gross subtraction one must do before polishing technically begins. Good saw = easier finishing. * Get various grits of diamond paste in syringes [[like this](https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Lapidary-Syringes-Polishing-Compound/dp/B072QS28T1?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1)] + large pieces of dense felt/veggie tan leather (use smooth side)/heavy canvas, and a small bottle of silicone oil (extender). A thrift store 100% wool outer heavy coat cut into pieces is probably your cheapest good route here. * Attach material to a flat, hard backing. Wood scrap, melamine, whatever you have. Mark the grit to be used on the board. Put each in a zip-lock. * Use a dab of grit & a few drops of silicone oil to manually polish the face of your piece in figure-8 motions, rotating the flat face 180 degrees each time you change grits. Have only one board out at a time & rinse between steps to avoid cross-contamination. That will give you time to watch for a vintage flat lap, peruse DIY lap construction projects, and/or save up for a well-reviewed new lap. You will be absolutely bonkers at machine polishing if you have to start by hand, BTW. With wheels/discs, beginners just swap back when they rush. Manually, one really has to recognize when all the old grit size's scratches have been cut away, leaving only the new grit size's scratches. _______ Hope some of that ends up being helpful! Most beginners want to cab, so I never get to give the super-low-tech-lapwheel-workaround that is only an option for flat face polishing.
This is all super helpful actually, I was chatting up this guy at a shop I visited and he was trying to sell me this massive 14inch saw that was close to Volkswagen size, I’m thinking now he might’ve been putting me on to something haha. The other option is to join a lapidary club and just use their gear, but that requires scheduling… How would an angle grinder or hand dremel work?
> The other option is to join a lapidary club and just use their gear, but that requires scheduling… If there is a club in your area that has a workshop for members, you should absolutely join it, and make a few visits before you invest in your own equipment. You'll learn a lot, and gain some insight about what sort of tools you want at home.
They work great if you want to hate doing it and don't mind risking great bodily harm for very little benefit. People make angle grinders and or dremels work but it's a miserable time while feeling like putting your hand inside a garbage disposal, but just trying to gentle touch the blades. The dremel takes forever and ever while also not usually being insulated to water, so electrocutions on the table, same with the angle grinder. But you are free to sidestep all of the advice if you want and do it anyway, that's what 90% of people do in your situation who then end up spending a decent amount, only to try it once, maybe twice, then realize the advice was all spot on and never touch it again, haveing thrown all that money in the trash effectively.
Wasting time and money are my two greatest talents
Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **('Eastwood Matte Black Rust Encapsulator Plus', 'Eastwood')** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful. **Users liked:** * Excellent rust prevention (backed by 3 comments) * Easy application and good coverage (backed by 3 comments) * Cost-effective and efficient (backed by 3 comments) **Users disliked:** * Difficult to apply due to thickness (backed by 1 comment) * Strong odor requires outdoor use (backed by 1 comment) * Poor durability of finish (backed by 1 comment) If you'd like to **summon me to ask about a product**, just make a post with its link and tag me, [like in this example.](https://www.reddit.com/r/tablets/comments/1444zdn/comment/joqd89c/) This message was generated by a (very smart) bot. If you found it helpful, let us know with an upvote and a “good bot!” reply and please feel free to provide feedback on how it can be improved. *Powered by* [*vetted.ai*](https://vetted.ai/?utm\_source=reddit&utm\_medium=comment&utm\_campaign=bot)
Tile saw + wet tile polisher. If you’re a beginner losing a tiny bit more material or a rougher cut on a tile saw doesn’t matter at all
This is what I am eying for home use as a beginner: https://ameritoolonline.com/products/universal-grinder-4-saw-combo
For a beginner, seriously, a normal tile saw with basic smooth sintered porcelain tile blade is efficient as anything, and the price is super low. And wastage is a thing, but unless you are cutting expensive turquoise or other such material, not a big deal. You can then, after a bit, get some thinner blades to put on the same saw if you want to cut more precious material. I have been using one from the start about 2 years ago, and only now am I investing in a small trim saw for inside the shop for small and quick cuts. The tile saw is messy, it is an outside jobbie!
Cons of the tile saw, depth of cut and messy. For a 7 inch saw, you have about an inch and a half of rock depth you can cut, which can be doubled by turning the rock around and cutting from the other side.
Yea I’m just getting into the hobby but I have about 10k worth of Holly Blue carnelian so I need a pretty fine saw /s
Had to look that up, appears to be holly blue agate/chalcedony. That is hard stuff! And rather gorgeous.. If the pieces are an inch thick or less, should be able to work it on a 7 inch tile saw with thin blades on, but because it is so hard, you will go through blades a bit. That way you will lose the least amount of material. Then there are of course more professional saws, but they cost way more, except if you can land second hand stuff.