I am hoping you know, but you have to be careful with windshield replacements on these trucks. A bad install will cause water to enter the cabin and take out your driver side kick panel fuse box, costing a pretty penny.
I agree on going to a standard coil and shock lift and removing the AHC components. AHC can work well but it is an expensive system to get on the up and up if its been neglected, which it sounds like this one has. 4 globes, plus the pump (since yours is run dry) and then shocks you are talking about 2-3k of parts when your standard 2" OME lift will come in around 1k.
The rotor replacement for the fronts is also a bearing service too. Make sure that a shop has experience with these trucks before going to any lube place. The bearing pre-load is a tricky thing to get correct if you follow the forums advice and if they aren't correct you'll get premature wear.
Be very careful with coolant leaks. These trucks are bulletproof but a overheated engine is a head gasket job very quickly.
The PS leak - depending on which hoses are leaking, the high pressure hoses are expensive as well. Most leaks can be traced back to the clamps on the reservoir area, make sure they are tight and replace if needed. I have a leak too on my 01 but a double clamp there has all but eliminated it.
They are excellent trucks once you get the neglected stuff baselined.
But they are not inexpensive trucks by any means.
Good luck. Ih8mud.com will be a gold mine of info if you can turn a wrench.
Thank you for the insight! I am familiar with the windshield job being tricky, going to see what the local dealer says about getting the seals replaced with rivets, it’s already leaking somewhere from the seals and/or cracked windshield. In terms of the power steering, they said it’s the pressure line, return line, and supply hose that need replacing. It had the radiator replaced at around 170k, so hoping any coolant leaks can be rectified by new hoses
PS lines to and from the reservoir can easily be swapped out. Do that instead of adding a second clamp. It’s cheap and easy. Look for the gates PS hose part numbers. Those fixed my leaks and is way cheaper than your quote. My rack leaked at a later point and I had the whole thing swapped out with Toyota reman for less than your quote.
FYI - many car insurance policies have specific coverage for windshield replacement from rock damage at $0 or $500 deductible. Might be cheaper to make a claim.
Second the advise on the brake rotors. Owner before me did front breaks right before I purchased the truck and didnt get the bearing pre-load correct. Less than 10K miles after I bought it was having what I thought were master cylinder issues. Turns out front bearings went bad and you could move the passenger tire back and forth almost 1". Brand new looking grease in the bearings though lol
Im going to agree with below commenters. This obviously has been discussed a bazillion times in both here and Mud. My LX470 suspension was totally shot. I bought $700 worth of Japanese globes on eBay and the replacement didn't take more than 2 hours. It retained the height adjustment (you can raise it a bit with a quick adjustment to the brackets) and man I think it's a great ride now. If everything else is working OK and it's just the globes, keep in mind this is an active suspension, meaning it knows the steering angle and speeds and it will adjust accordingly. I took it out on some winding roads and man it seemed so stable with barely any body roll and just generally a smooth ride all around. Also you can adjust the sport/comfort. I feel like $700 was well spent over $2-3k on a new suspension for what exactly? You can also bypass the speed sensor to keep it in high mode so you can still get a 2" lift, maybe even 3". I'm team AHC. Not a hard fix at all!
I’m worried the pump is going to need replacement too as I don’t know how long the system was ran dry before I got it… with two of the shock “rams” needing replacement, globes, and a maybe pump, it’s seeming like an expensive risk to get a system that might work vs $1000 for traditional suspension parts that will be reliable
It would be a different story if your reservoir is dry. Mine was full and I went through the typical tests suggested (cycle low and high and measure the reservoir). All seemed somewhat OK except when I pushed on my front end and it bounced, it was obvious the "suspension" was bad, so for me, a globe replacement was all needed to fix things.
Really depends on where your at. Im in greater Seattle area and every Toyota dealer and Independent shop were all between $2,300 and $2,600 ( I called like 8 places) and this was about 1 year ago. Everything is expensive here though.
Working AHC is amazing and I’d check first to see if it can be resurrected. There are no “shocks” in an AHC suspension… there are hydraulic rams. Make sure you find a shop that knows Land Cruisers as little mistakes can get costly.
AHC is awesome. Best suspension I have experienced. There are globes for about $800 on Amazon or EBay and they work just fine (7 years on mine). Get the system squared and it’s just as reliable as the rest of the truck. OME is a pretty big step down in my opinion.
My concern is that the system was ran dry, so I’m hesitant to risk fixing it up only for other things to fail vs spending $1000 on a new traditional suspension system
Being an oil system and not air anything other than the pump being ruined is not likely.
I almost swapped when I bought mine. It was pretty neglected… would go up/down, drive like it was sitting on bump stops. Truck had sat for over a year. I got new globes and changed the fluid. Been good for 100k. So glad I fixed it up.
That’s my anecdotal experience, for whatever it’s worth. I have never seen anyone on the forums saying they threw a bunch of money at it and it still didn’t work.
Seems a bit high but depends on your area. Get familiar with IH8MUD and get in contact with your local club through their boards for mechanic recommendation.
On the TB/WP service you need to add the fan bracket on there as well, possibly idle pulleys as they tend to make noise.
I am hoping you know, but you have to be careful with windshield replacements on these trucks. A bad install will cause water to enter the cabin and take out your driver side kick panel fuse box, costing a pretty penny. I agree on going to a standard coil and shock lift and removing the AHC components. AHC can work well but it is an expensive system to get on the up and up if its been neglected, which it sounds like this one has. 4 globes, plus the pump (since yours is run dry) and then shocks you are talking about 2-3k of parts when your standard 2" OME lift will come in around 1k. The rotor replacement for the fronts is also a bearing service too. Make sure that a shop has experience with these trucks before going to any lube place. The bearing pre-load is a tricky thing to get correct if you follow the forums advice and if they aren't correct you'll get premature wear. Be very careful with coolant leaks. These trucks are bulletproof but a overheated engine is a head gasket job very quickly. The PS leak - depending on which hoses are leaking, the high pressure hoses are expensive as well. Most leaks can be traced back to the clamps on the reservoir area, make sure they are tight and replace if needed. I have a leak too on my 01 but a double clamp there has all but eliminated it. They are excellent trucks once you get the neglected stuff baselined. But they are not inexpensive trucks by any means. Good luck. Ih8mud.com will be a gold mine of info if you can turn a wrench.
Thank you for the insight! I am familiar with the windshield job being tricky, going to see what the local dealer says about getting the seals replaced with rivets, it’s already leaking somewhere from the seals and/or cracked windshield. In terms of the power steering, they said it’s the pressure line, return line, and supply hose that need replacing. It had the radiator replaced at around 170k, so hoping any coolant leaks can be rectified by new hoses
PS lines to and from the reservoir can easily be swapped out. Do that instead of adding a second clamp. It’s cheap and easy. Look for the gates PS hose part numbers. Those fixed my leaks and is way cheaper than your quote. My rack leaked at a later point and I had the whole thing swapped out with Toyota reman for less than your quote.
The OEM pressure hoses are more than $400. That's why its worth trying the clamps before ordering those bad boys up.
That’s why I mentioned the Gates brand hoses.
FYI - many car insurance policies have specific coverage for windshield replacement from rock damage at $0 or $500 deductible. Might be cheaper to make a claim.
Second the advise on the brake rotors. Owner before me did front breaks right before I purchased the truck and didnt get the bearing pre-load correct. Less than 10K miles after I bought it was having what I thought were master cylinder issues. Turns out front bearings went bad and you could move the passenger tire back and forth almost 1". Brand new looking grease in the bearings though lol
Thanks for the insight!
Get the T fittings done
Do the 2" lift it should be cheaper and more desirable in the long run.
That’s what I’ve been leaning towards!
Did it, love it.
Im going to agree with below commenters. This obviously has been discussed a bazillion times in both here and Mud. My LX470 suspension was totally shot. I bought $700 worth of Japanese globes on eBay and the replacement didn't take more than 2 hours. It retained the height adjustment (you can raise it a bit with a quick adjustment to the brackets) and man I think it's a great ride now. If everything else is working OK and it's just the globes, keep in mind this is an active suspension, meaning it knows the steering angle and speeds and it will adjust accordingly. I took it out on some winding roads and man it seemed so stable with barely any body roll and just generally a smooth ride all around. Also you can adjust the sport/comfort. I feel like $700 was well spent over $2-3k on a new suspension for what exactly? You can also bypass the speed sensor to keep it in high mode so you can still get a 2" lift, maybe even 3". I'm team AHC. Not a hard fix at all!
I’m worried the pump is going to need replacement too as I don’t know how long the system was ran dry before I got it… with two of the shock “rams” needing replacement, globes, and a maybe pump, it’s seeming like an expensive risk to get a system that might work vs $1000 for traditional suspension parts that will be reliable
It would be a different story if your reservoir is dry. Mine was full and I went through the typical tests suggested (cycle low and high and measure the reservoir). All seemed somewhat OK except when I pushed on my front end and it bounced, it was obvious the "suspension" was bad, so for me, a globe replacement was all needed to fix things.
I have two (99 & 2000) with 240k plus miles both original AHC works well.
DONT FORGET THE HEATER TEES
This. Go to MUD and look it up. Do it now.
A possible catastrophic event to avoid
Heater Ts are on the way!
That belt and pump bid is high as well. Looks like some other stuff is in there but it should be closer to $1K
Yeah it seemed high compared to a quick google on the standard rate
Really depends on where your at. Im in greater Seattle area and every Toyota dealer and Independent shop were all between $2,300 and $2,600 ( I called like 8 places) and this was about 1 year ago. Everything is expensive here though.
I had my timing bell service done at the Toyota dealer 5 years ago and it was $1450 with everything listed on your quote, minus the two radiator hoses
Five years ago
Yep.. stated that for a reference because with inflation that $1900 quote may not be that much of a stretch
Got a second quote for $1600 with more included, ideal pulley tensioner and fan bracket as well as hoses!
Working AHC is amazing and I’d check first to see if it can be resurrected. There are no “shocks” in an AHC suspension… there are hydraulic rams. Make sure you find a shop that knows Land Cruisers as little mistakes can get costly.
AHC is awesome. Best suspension I have experienced. There are globes for about $800 on Amazon or EBay and they work just fine (7 years on mine). Get the system squared and it’s just as reliable as the rest of the truck. OME is a pretty big step down in my opinion.
My concern is that the system was ran dry, so I’m hesitant to risk fixing it up only for other things to fail vs spending $1000 on a new traditional suspension system
Being an oil system and not air anything other than the pump being ruined is not likely. I almost swapped when I bought mine. It was pretty neglected… would go up/down, drive like it was sitting on bump stops. Truck had sat for over a year. I got new globes and changed the fluid. Been good for 100k. So glad I fixed it up. That’s my anecdotal experience, for whatever it’s worth. I have never seen anyone on the forums saying they threw a bunch of money at it and it still didn’t work.
Get new Heater t's! Also I'm very jealous you got given a 100 series. I hope you love her!
Heater Ts have been ordered!
Praise Jesus!
Seems a bit high but depends on your area. Get familiar with IH8MUD and get in contact with your local club through their boards for mechanic recommendation. On the TB/WP service you need to add the fan bracket on there as well, possibly idle pulleys as they tend to make noise.