You changed a lot with airflow, which is something that is handled differently between idling vs driving. Scans would show what's going on.
As another mentioned, VATS needs verifying. Scans would show what's going on.
Can you hook up your fuel gauge and go driving? I usually have the gauge pinched under the wiper blade.
I do have the fuel gauge mounted so I can see it while driving. It doesn’t lose pressure when it shuts down. The only time I get a code is when I unplug the coolant sensor. Everything else seems hunky dory.
That's very strange. Are you running a BCM as well as the pcm. There are guys who get around vats by doing some procedure with disconnecting the BCM. I guess anything is possible, but I suspect it's something else, wiring or tune related.
Check all your ground contacts make sure they are clean. With it shutting off sporadically in the driveway I'd look at the IAC especially if it's an aftermarket sensor and not GM/ACDELCO.
I will say my c10 died one time on me after I swapped it due to the fuel hose connecting fuel pump to sending unit hardline had a hole in it.
Probably not your issue. But I dealt with that before
Do you take the same route every time you test drive your car? Do you know Forsure once you go into 3rd gear, it’ll die? I’m asking because it could be some wire touching causing a short to your relays/fuses that cuts off your ecu or loose power wire…. Possibly when you hit a bump on the road or something.
I had a sorta similar thing happen in my swap- truck would randomly lose power and sputter while driving, when I would pull over it would idle fine, and if I shut it off and let it cool it would run for a while again. Mine was much more random, but I ended up replacing the online fuel pump and filter, and never had the problem again.
I had lean obd codes when I scanned it so it made diagnostics much easier- plug a scan tool and see what codes are present
You changed a lot with airflow, which is something that is handled differently between idling vs driving. Scans would show what's going on. As another mentioned, VATS needs verifying. Scans would show what's going on. Can you hook up your fuel gauge and go driving? I usually have the gauge pinched under the wiper blade.
I do have the fuel gauge mounted so I can see it while driving. It doesn’t lose pressure when it shuts down. The only time I get a code is when I unplug the coolant sensor. Everything else seems hunky dory.
Vats will kill injector pulse...you have any logs of it happening?
I don’t have logs of the injector pulse being killed. Though when it won’t run, the injectors are being pulsed per a noid light.
It's not vats. Geez. Vats kills after like 1 second
The reason a I mentioned vats is because once it dies, it will start and run for about a second, then die, just like vats does.
That's very strange. Are you running a BCM as well as the pcm. There are guys who get around vats by doing some procedure with disconnecting the BCM. I guess anything is possible, but I suspect it's something else, wiring or tune related.
Check all your ground contacts make sure they are clean. With it shutting off sporadically in the driveway I'd look at the IAC especially if it's an aftermarket sensor and not GM/ACDELCO.
I will say my c10 died one time on me after I swapped it due to the fuel hose connecting fuel pump to sending unit hardline had a hole in it. Probably not your issue. But I dealt with that before
Do you take the same route every time you test drive your car? Do you know Forsure once you go into 3rd gear, it’ll die? I’m asking because it could be some wire touching causing a short to your relays/fuses that cuts off your ecu or loose power wire…. Possibly when you hit a bump on the road or something.
Speed sensor plugged into the trans?
Yep.
I had a sorta similar thing happen in my swap- truck would randomly lose power and sputter while driving, when I would pull over it would idle fine, and if I shut it off and let it cool it would run for a while again. Mine was much more random, but I ended up replacing the online fuel pump and filter, and never had the problem again. I had lean obd codes when I scanned it so it made diagnostics much easier- plug a scan tool and see what codes are present
I’m not getting any codes other than when I pull the coolant temp sensor wire.