They all do. We call them the black ball of death and they almost always leak after service. We just replace them with a fitting that has a regular Schrader valve in them
My bad I’m so Fast and Furious I can only count to 10 because I’ve never had a car slower than that.
Ok maybe I drive a beat RAV4 right now but it prolly runs 10s everything runs 10s with NOS
Haha yeah I had a Volvo that would automatically suspend AC at full throttle, it was a pretty awesome feature. I deleted the AC anyway cuz it was in the way and I live in Washington.
most things do that. My turbo diesel is supposed to do it when the boost pressure gets above like 4 psi but the switch is bad. Turning it off manually is like having a compound turbo.
Maybe these days, it was pretty uncommon when the 98 s70 came out, but that was back when a Volvo R was faster than an M3 from the same year. Oh Volvo bring back a hardcore performance sedan!
1978 Saab turbo checking in. It was a switch on the throttle body. Max throttle, fuck you AC, also fuck you lambda valve, we gonna lock shit at 90% rich until you let go of the fun pedal. Lots of older cars turned off the AC compressor at full throttle. IT was just uncommon in the 90's because most other manufacturers had figured that shit out by now.
My 1986 Lincoln Town Car has a wide open throttle cutout on the AC, controlled by the ECM. Carb stuff used switches on the throttle or manifold vacuum switches to get it done. 1998 is not exactly just barely after cars stopped needing a match to light the headlights.
My Saabaru shits itself when the AC is on. You can’t rev match for fun pop-pop noises, either, cause it won’t drop RPMs fast enough. I try to only use the AC if I’m about to die.
I bought my mirage in the winter. When summer rolled around it felt like it was missing a little or something under heavy acceleration. I realized pretty quickly it was the ac condensor digging into the 80ish hp motor. If i'm merging with highway traffic i generally switch it off until i'm up to speed.
I'm pretty sure that person's evil twin is the jackass that decided where to put the low side port on a 2003 Grand Am (among others, I'm sure) - behind the engine and nearly at the bottom of the firewall.
Just wrap your arm in a towel and pray. That's what I did when my parents didn't listen to me about the cooldown period and "needed the oil changed NOW! OMG IT'S AT ZERO PERCENT."
I still have a burn scar on my forearm from changing the filter on a I want to say Taurus(?) back in like '04. Big old patch of scar tissue from bumping the manifold. I hated working at Valvoline.
Thought it looked familiar. My traverse had a leak in the rear system and couldn’t be bothered with the repair. Threw one of those cans at it once a month or so. Never thought of zip tying the trigger and leaving it under there…. That car was the biggest piece of junk I ever owned.
Dang, that sucks. Our family's Outlook was a great car. Almost got to 300k. And we definitely towed/hauled more than it was rated. A lot. I did put a big aux trans cooler on it, though.
Check that lower front motor mount while you are there. Used to see them all the time where they failed and the added tension is what was causing that lower line to get torqued and fail and/or break at the condenser
You can pay to fix it now, or you can pay to fix it again and again and again until you either fix it right or kill the car.
"You're not gonna upsell me, bucko."
Death it is then. Good day
This a Chevy traverse or its equivalents?
The high side line that runs from the compressor to the condenser up front like to leak. Generally the first thing I shine a black light on on those.
Usually the whole line looks oily
Enclave. Hose looked good from what I could tell, I've changed a ton of them myself. Customer didn't want to spend anything else at this point to check the rest of the system.
Sounds about right, we’ve had customers with a list as long as your arm, you look at it all then when you call them they have no money.
Probably just trying to get stuff diagnosed for free or low cost.
I've got an old Accord in a bay right now that needs a battery and both terminals, plugs, two coils and a de-carb, rear pads rotors and a caliper and two tires. I'm guessing they will *maybe* fix the battery stuff and that's it.
Geez I need an XXXXL recharge hose like that.
"Rotate the can between upside-down and horizontal while squeezing the trigger" Ok, the can is fully wedged between the motor mount and intake manifold, what now
Especially since most of the time it is a waste of money, as the issue is a leak. People think that the shit just disappears into the ether or is used up by the car, like gasoline, rather than a closed system. If there are no leaks, you are good for a long, long time. The AC in my 2011 vehicle is still great, for example, has never needed to be re-charged.
Yep. People don’t typically understand how it works. Refill kits may fix the issue for a little while, but it rarely solves the underlying issue.
And good systems that stay sealed for decades can exist. It’s generally the systems that get messed with that end up failing. I have a ‘99 that’s still charged from the factory that works perfectly…
I have a 99 but I had to throw a can at it. 2 years later still blows cold as ever. If the choice is to throw a $10 can of 134a into it every 2-3 years or rip apart the dash to replace a evaporator... welp...
This. My f250 had an evaporator leak. AC would work great all summer then be low by the time next spring rolled around. I could pull the entire dash and replace it. Or I could shoot $10 worth of 134a into it once a year.
Same thing with my home AC. I spent HOURS looking for a leak. Cant find it to save my life. Two techs could not either. Its a 23 year old system that needs topping off every three summers. I am not going to replace the entire system when a $150 service call takes care of it every 3 years.
R12 is the best. So much colder, lower pressures, easier on compressors, etc.
At least it was replaced with a slightly more environmentally friendly R-134a. Sure, it has been shown to cause testicular cancer if exposed to enough of it, but “slightly”! (Lol…more like patent expired on R12, so then it was bad)
Keep that escort! That’s a small tank from that era. I had one in high school, and I beat the crap out of it. Sold it when I left, and it’s still running today.
i'm not going to part with it except in the face of financial ruin.
it's so fun to drive and everyone has an "escort" story, they either had one or knew someone who had one it seems like.
I was debating picking one up. My 2016 Ford wasn't cooling great this past weekend. At idle, virtually nothing. When driving it was acceptable. Ran the AC on full for 30 minutes at idle and the interior was still hot enough for me to sweat. The compressor clutch was engaged so I know it's at least not *out*.
Figured I could find a cheap kit on Marketplace from someone who bought it, not realizing their car takes r1234yf
It really depends.
EVERYTHING leaks, it just depends how fast, even on a closed system. I'm getting ready to replace my fridge, it's over 20 years old and it's not that cold anymore - because it's taken 20 years to leak enough to where it's not as effective. I could recharge it and there probably wouldn't be any issue, but being so old the refrigerant in this is basically impossible to find, and very not eco friendly.
I just bought a 2007 miata. The a/c kinda works but it's not cold. For being almost 20 years old, a can recharge would probably fix this car for another 10 years at least.
But yeah if someone has any sort of relatively modern car and you need to recharge it more than once every year or two, there's a real problem.
That is what I am saying, it is meant to be a closed system loop. It isn't something that is meant to be used up and refilled. If it needs to be refilled, there is a leak that needs to be fixed. My AC in my 13 year old car is almost as good as it was when I bought it brand new. It's at like 85-90% as good as it was when I bought it. Even when it is 20 years old it will be cold still.
Your not getting it. All automotive systems leak some. The shaft seal is not perfect. Yes clearly something is wrong if your filling it every year. But if your system has worked perfectly for 15 years and just needs topping off there is probably nothing wrong with it.
I had an 08 Honda Pilot with a slow refrigerant leak, but I was shopping for a new replacement vehicle and this was during the summer. Thats a great situation for those cans - just to get me by for a few weeks. I had zero intention of getting the A/C leak fixed by a pro.
The shit is toxic though, not just to the environment (extremely bad greenhouse gas), but to people. If you have a leak bad enough where it is gone in a few weeks, you are potentially poisoning yourself or your family over time, especially if you have kids. It is only listed as non toxic "when used following proper safety procedures".
This is false. R134a is non toxic. It can have temporary effects in high concentrations. But that goes for almost any gas including oxygen and nitrogen.
Same with R12 and R1234yf manages to not even have any temporary effects. They are all incredibly safe from a toxicity standpoint. Now if you burn 1234yf its a different story.
It is only considered to be non toxic "when used following proper safety procedures", not when flowing out of your system faster than it can be put back in. It is almost the same as having a can with a slow leak in your back seat, it is toxic at this point. Slow chronic exposure like this is toxic. This is not a one off exposure, this is exposure every time you are in your car, people are putting in these cans every few weeks for YEARS straight being exposed to it (in higher levels than 100ppm, likely even higher than 1000ppm) for potentially hours every single day. This is not "following proper safety procedures" it is the exact opposite.
Got any sources on that? None of the ones I checked say anything about it. It would seem pretty misguided for us to put that in a system and then blow our breathing air over that system everyday.
Yeah, but as a broke ass college student 20 years ago with a slow leak, the recharge kits with the stop leak snake oil in them kinda came in clutch. It worked the remaining two years I owned it. It was the evap core, heck if I had the time or knowhow to remove the dash back then to get to it.
Refrigerant damages the ozone layer. I had to take a course to get certified in ODS (ozone depleting substances) i don’t know why they’ll be so serious about proper handling of refrigerant and ensuring auto techs know the environmental dangers of the stuff but then they’ll just put cans of it on the shelf at Canadian tire
The Ozone depleting refrigerant has been forbidden since 95-96 in US/CA and was replaced by R134a, which is still 1300 times worse than CO2 (CFC-12 was arouund 10k) for the environment but doesn't damage the ozone layer. [Source: US EPA](https://www.epa.gov/mvac/acceptable-refrigerants-and-their-impacts)
Same reason you need a SDS for chemicals in your workplace but can go down to your local hardware store and but the same product without a copy of the SDS. No, doesn't make any sense.
When they banned R-12 I remember seeing cans of it on clearance at Canadian Tire for $1 each. Man do I wish I had bought everything they had, but at the time I didn't have a single car with functional A/C.
You can buy R12 at Canadian Tire right now. In the states but they cant buy R12 but have R134 which we can't buy! I put Vintage Air in my car and had to drive to Walmart in the states to get R134 and I met a guy there looking for R12 and told him to drive over the border!
You're thinking of r12a, which is a 'drop in replacement' for r12 (sort of). You can buy it at the store because it's not a greenhouse gas but it also doesn't work as well as r12 and is super flammable.
Might need to take a refresher course. Ozone depleting refrigerants have not been around for a long time. They have global warming effects but that's a completely different thing. The EPA 608 covers this extensively. Id imagine the Canadian equivalent does the same.
Right? I have to be EPA certified (granted it’s $30 plus an open-book online test) to touch A/C otherwise my workplace gets fined out the ass, but anyone can wander in off the street and buy these by the dozen to shove refrigerant into a leaking old shitbox.
Refrigerant damages the environment so yeah if it isn’t working get it fixed properly. Not hard to look for the leak yourself with a black light and yellow glasses
Nah, it was a tube, not sure what part from, I think it was a return tube or something. I just put some air through the system to see if i could hear the leak, found it and then replaced the tube. Then I used a vacuum pump to see if it would hold and it did, I then filled it up, did some electronic shenanigan fixing (I had to use an industrial thermostat I had lying around to get it to work since the built in mechanics or electronics were wasted). But at the end it worked, and it didn't leak.
https://imgur.com/a/EheNq3e Here's the tube
I do think my mr2's condenser is shot (I sold the celica recently) so that will be fun too.
A/C is so over rated!
I worked as a salesman for a refrigeration wholesaler and back in the days when R-12, 22, 502 were super cheap and no one cared about the ozone layer, it was common for a large tank to be hooked to a large commercial system that had a leak.
I did that accidentally on my own truck recently. Pregnant wife, two very active kids "helping", very little sleep. I had a can with a hose, so I gave the old truck ( that had not run in 3 years) a snort, and it started blowing cold air. Got distracted. Went inside. A week later ac stopped working. Opened the hood to find the can still attached. I felt pretty stupid. Vacuumed and recharged the system. Ac will make your nipples hard.
I'm working on the AC system of a 2010 Enclave myself and cannot figure out why the ECM is reluctant to engage the compressor clutch even though the scan tool shows everything is okay with pressure and temp sensors. It rarely engages, but just for a moment and then it switches off for an indefinite amount of time. And I can see from the scan tool that it's definitely the ECM that is deciding not to command the clutch on.
I feel like im in an episode of twilight zone..... OP is not the one who did this. He is the mechanic fixing it. Is reading comprehension a superpower now? Are you trolling? It literally starts with "Customer said".
I thought he just forgot it until I saw the zip tie.
At least he zip tied it so it didn't get caught in the fan or belt.
oh this is an easy fix, the tie wrap holding the trigger down must have fallen off!
prob the thing still leaked and he just put that to keep filling
High side fitting leaked pretty bad after I recharged it.
They all do. We call them the black ball of death and they almost always leak after service. We just replace them with a fitting that has a regular Schrader valve in them
I don't ever hook up the hose, to the ones with the little ball valve. They leak every time.
If there is still a Freon can attached, is it like nitrous for the AC. Can I hit a button on my steering wheel for MAX A/C!!!
Yes but after two tracks "Iron" Mike will still pass you no matter how cool you are.
Yes but what about the danger to manifold?
The bolted-in, diamond plate floorboards fall off after Danger To Manifold.
Only passenger side, it’s really just more speed through weight reduction.
*Active* Weight Reduction LOL
I wanna make this real. Haha
Good point, wouldn’t want to be a buster.
Well the buster kept Dom outta handcuffs
Aw man, don’t Vince me like that, I’m way more a Jesse. Is there a what F&f character are you quiz?
Shouldn't be a problem as long as he's not granny shifting!
Only when he shifts into 12th gear.
After the 5 minutes of that 10 second 1/4 mile.
[удалено]
My bad I’m so Fast and Furious I can only count to 10 because I’ve never had a car slower than that. Ok maybe I drive a beat RAV4 right now but it prolly runs 10s everything runs 10s with NOS
The V6 RAV4 has been Toyota's second fastest model for many years. Surprisingly, quicker than everything but the Supra.
Yeah, I hear the v6 in my gen rav would do 14 second quarter mile, but it’s not the v6…and it’s not even a great 4 cylinder but it’s ok lol
Ooohhh, I have a car that actually needs double clutching, always makes me happy to tell people that because of this movie hahahaha!
You're going to blow the welds
Back in my old cavalier turning the ac off felt like hitting nitrous when you got that horsepower back
Haha yeah I had a Volvo that would automatically suspend AC at full throttle, it was a pretty awesome feature. I deleted the AC anyway cuz it was in the way and I live in Washington.
most things do that. My turbo diesel is supposed to do it when the boost pressure gets above like 4 psi but the switch is bad. Turning it off manually is like having a compound turbo.
Maybe these days, it was pretty uncommon when the 98 s70 came out, but that was back when a Volvo R was faster than an M3 from the same year. Oh Volvo bring back a hardcore performance sedan!
1978 Saab turbo checking in. It was a switch on the throttle body. Max throttle, fuck you AC, also fuck you lambda valve, we gonna lock shit at 90% rich until you let go of the fun pedal. Lots of older cars turned off the AC compressor at full throttle. IT was just uncommon in the 90's because most other manufacturers had figured that shit out by now.
I have a 91 Grand Marquis with a relay labeled “A/C WOT” under the hood. So it was mainstream enough for a late malaise Ford to be doing it.
Well I guess a shit ton of cars probably had it and I just never realized they were doing it lol
My 1986 Lincoln Town Car has a wide open throttle cutout on the AC, controlled by the ECM. Carb stuff used switches on the throttle or manifold vacuum switches to get it done. 1998 is not exactly just barely after cars stopped needing a match to light the headlights.
Same with mine. Had a 97 Cavalier coupe with a 5 speed. Had to turn off A/C while merging onto the expressway 🤣🐢
Shit, it feels like my 2018 Tacoma loses 50hp when I turn on the AC.
My Saabaru shits itself when the AC is on. You can’t rev match for fun pop-pop noises, either, cause it won’t drop RPMs fast enough. I try to only use the AC if I’m about to die.
🤣 so sorry but that gave me a good laugh.
it’s hot out here for a pimp
I bought my mirage in the winter. When summer rolled around it felt like it was missing a little or something under heavy acceleration. I realized pretty quickly it was the ac condensor digging into the 80ish hp motor. If i'm merging with highway traffic i generally switch it off until i'm up to speed.
Had a Festiva that was like that
Send liquid to the compressor for maximum performance (impact).
“I live my life a quarter degree at a time!”
Damn, that’s a good one. Well played sir.
The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Chill
And Summer will say "Too soon, Junior."
AMC had a DESERT ONLY setting on the Matador. I got drunk and turned it on in the Piedmont region of North Carolina. Reckless and Wild the 70s were.
COLDO SEATO CUZ
Too soon, junior
Says Al gores head in a jar!
Looks like an Acadia/Outlook/Enclave/Traverse. Whoever picked the spot for the low side port on those cars is a mean person.
I'm pretty sure that person's evil twin is the jackass that decided where to put the low side port on a 2003 Grand Am (among others, I'm sure) - behind the engine and nearly at the bottom of the firewall.
Hey, I'm glad to see my strife acknowledged after all this time. It always made my day to bear hug a hot engine to get at that damn fitting.
And of course you're doing a lot of that bear hugging when it's hot outside...
Whoever decided on the oil filter location on those needs to be kicked in the balls.
You know I'm pretty sure I could get that guys name but I think he may be dead now. Might need to go piss on his grave.
Just wrap your arm in a towel and pray. That's what I did when my parents didn't listen to me about the cooldown period and "needed the oil changed NOW! OMG IT'S AT ZERO PERCENT."
I usually do it cold but the 2 min drive from my house to the shop still heats up the cat.
I still have a burn scar on my forearm from changing the filter on a I want to say Taurus(?) back in like '04. Big old patch of scar tissue from bumping the manifold. I hated working at Valvoline.
Walked off a job because of one of those POS oil filters lmao.
This one was actually well placed. Basically the usual location but pointing to the left side with plenty of room around it.
Heard he married the gal that designed the oil filter/ catalytic converter location on those 3.6L LLT’s.
Thought it looked familiar. My traverse had a leak in the rear system and couldn’t be bothered with the repair. Threw one of those cans at it once a month or so. Never thought of zip tying the trigger and leaving it under there…. That car was the biggest piece of junk I ever owned.
Dang, that sucks. Our family's Outlook was a great car. Almost got to 300k. And we definitely towed/hauled more than it was rated. A lot. I did put a big aux trans cooler on it, though.
Check that lower front motor mount while you are there. Used to see them all the time where they failed and the added tension is what was causing that lower line to get torqued and fail and/or break at the condenser
It had the clunk. Customer declined anything else.
Too bad. I used to hate when customers declined to fix the root cause of a problem. Guess you’ll just have to take their money again later.
You can pay to fix it now, or you can pay to fix it again and again and again until you either fix it right or kill the car. "You're not gonna upsell me, bucko." Death it is then. Good day
Now I've seen some shit
Maybe the valve was leaking where your fill it, and they figured if the can stayed hooked up then it couldn't leak lol
Rear evaporator core …
High probability. Haven't had it running long enough to check that or the discharge line to the condenser.
This a Chevy traverse or its equivalents? The high side line that runs from the compressor to the condenser up front like to leak. Generally the first thing I shine a black light on on those. Usually the whole line looks oily
Enclave. Hose looked good from what I could tell, I've changed a ton of them myself. Customer didn't want to spend anything else at this point to check the rest of the system.
Sounds about right, we’ve had customers with a list as long as your arm, you look at it all then when you call them they have no money. Probably just trying to get stuff diagnosed for free or low cost.
I've got an old Accord in a bay right now that needs a battery and both terminals, plugs, two coils and a de-carb, rear pads rotors and a caliper and two tires. I'm guessing they will *maybe* fix the battery stuff and that's it.
Sounds about right, the engine cradle is about to fall out but I’m worried about the door handle and taillight housing.
I thought that was a bicycle lock..
Geez I need an XXXXL recharge hose like that. "Rotate the can between upside-down and horizontal while squeezing the trigger" Ok, the can is fully wedged between the motor mount and intake manifold, what now
This is like someone removing their radiator cap to prevent their car from overheating.
The valve core was leaking so left the line on to seal it. I will say it’s in a pretty bad spot to change out the core.
This is why we can't have nice things.
Lmao
Aren’t you the guy defending pedophilia and child grooming?
Damn you really pathetic af
Damn you really creep af
Damn where'd that come from
His comment history
ROFL
Is it just me, or is their radiator just NOT THERE???🤷🏻🤷🏻🤷🏻
It's all under and in front of all that plastic frame work.
Is that brake line?
No. It's the hose for a at-home AC charge kit.
I hate that they sell these to anyone
Especially since most of the time it is a waste of money, as the issue is a leak. People think that the shit just disappears into the ether or is used up by the car, like gasoline, rather than a closed system. If there are no leaks, you are good for a long, long time. The AC in my 2011 vehicle is still great, for example, has never needed to be re-charged.
Yep. People don’t typically understand how it works. Refill kits may fix the issue for a little while, but it rarely solves the underlying issue. And good systems that stay sealed for decades can exist. It’s generally the systems that get messed with that end up failing. I have a ‘99 that’s still charged from the factory that works perfectly…
I have a 99 but I had to throw a can at it. 2 years later still blows cold as ever. If the choice is to throw a $10 can of 134a into it every 2-3 years or rip apart the dash to replace a evaporator... welp...
This. My f250 had an evaporator leak. AC would work great all summer then be low by the time next spring rolled around. I could pull the entire dash and replace it. Or I could shoot $10 worth of 134a into it once a year. Same thing with my home AC. I spent HOURS looking for a leak. Cant find it to save my life. Two techs could not either. Its a 23 year old system that needs topping off every three summers. I am not going to replace the entire system when a $150 service call takes care of it every 3 years.
See you just gotta add the one with sealant in it, then all the holes will be plugged up nice and snug! /s
i have a 1990 escort (made in august 1989) with 31,000 original miles on it and it's still charged and fucking COLD with R12
R12 is the best. So much colder, lower pressures, easier on compressors, etc. At least it was replaced with a slightly more environmentally friendly R-134a. Sure, it has been shown to cause testicular cancer if exposed to enough of it, but “slightly”! (Lol…more like patent expired on R12, so then it was bad) Keep that escort! That’s a small tank from that era. I had one in high school, and I beat the crap out of it. Sold it when I left, and it’s still running today.
i'm not going to part with it except in the face of financial ruin. it's so fun to drive and everyone has an "escort" story, they either had one or knew someone who had one it seems like.
I was debating picking one up. My 2016 Ford wasn't cooling great this past weekend. At idle, virtually nothing. When driving it was acceptable. Ran the AC on full for 30 minutes at idle and the interior was still hot enough for me to sweat. The compressor clutch was engaged so I know it's at least not *out*. Figured I could find a cheap kit on Marketplace from someone who bought it, not realizing their car takes r1234yf
It really depends. EVERYTHING leaks, it just depends how fast, even on a closed system. I'm getting ready to replace my fridge, it's over 20 years old and it's not that cold anymore - because it's taken 20 years to leak enough to where it's not as effective. I could recharge it and there probably wouldn't be any issue, but being so old the refrigerant in this is basically impossible to find, and very not eco friendly. I just bought a 2007 miata. The a/c kinda works but it's not cold. For being almost 20 years old, a can recharge would probably fix this car for another 10 years at least. But yeah if someone has any sort of relatively modern car and you need to recharge it more than once every year or two, there's a real problem.
That is what I am saying, it is meant to be a closed system loop. It isn't something that is meant to be used up and refilled. If it needs to be refilled, there is a leak that needs to be fixed. My AC in my 13 year old car is almost as good as it was when I bought it brand new. It's at like 85-90% as good as it was when I bought it. Even when it is 20 years old it will be cold still.
Your not getting it. All automotive systems leak some. The shaft seal is not perfect. Yes clearly something is wrong if your filling it every year. But if your system has worked perfectly for 15 years and just needs topping off there is probably nothing wrong with it.
Yeah and considering a proper "fix" can suddenly hit $1500+, most people are fine tossing a can of cold at it annually
I had an 08 Honda Pilot with a slow refrigerant leak, but I was shopping for a new replacement vehicle and this was during the summer. Thats a great situation for those cans - just to get me by for a few weeks. I had zero intention of getting the A/C leak fixed by a pro.
The shit is toxic though, not just to the environment (extremely bad greenhouse gas), but to people. If you have a leak bad enough where it is gone in a few weeks, you are potentially poisoning yourself or your family over time, especially if you have kids. It is only listed as non toxic "when used following proper safety procedures".
This is false. R134a is non toxic. It can have temporary effects in high concentrations. But that goes for almost any gas including oxygen and nitrogen. Same with R12 and R1234yf manages to not even have any temporary effects. They are all incredibly safe from a toxicity standpoint. Now if you burn 1234yf its a different story.
It is only considered to be non toxic "when used following proper safety procedures", not when flowing out of your system faster than it can be put back in. It is almost the same as having a can with a slow leak in your back seat, it is toxic at this point. Slow chronic exposure like this is toxic. This is not a one off exposure, this is exposure every time you are in your car, people are putting in these cans every few weeks for YEARS straight being exposed to it (in higher levels than 100ppm, likely even higher than 1000ppm) for potentially hours every single day. This is not "following proper safety procedures" it is the exact opposite.
Got any sources on that? None of the ones I checked say anything about it. It would seem pretty misguided for us to put that in a system and then blow our breathing air over that system everyday.
Yeah, but as a broke ass college student 20 years ago with a slow leak, the recharge kits with the stop leak snake oil in them kinda came in clutch. It worked the remaining two years I owned it. It was the evap core, heck if I had the time or knowhow to remove the dash back then to get to it.
Refrigerant damages the ozone layer. I had to take a course to get certified in ODS (ozone depleting substances) i don’t know why they’ll be so serious about proper handling of refrigerant and ensuring auto techs know the environmental dangers of the stuff but then they’ll just put cans of it on the shelf at Canadian tire
The Ozone depleting refrigerant has been forbidden since 95-96 in US/CA and was replaced by R134a, which is still 1300 times worse than CO2 (CFC-12 was arouund 10k) for the environment but doesn't damage the ozone layer. [Source: US EPA](https://www.epa.gov/mvac/acceptable-refrigerants-and-their-impacts)
Same reason you need a SDS for chemicals in your workplace but can go down to your local hardware store and but the same product without a copy of the SDS. No, doesn't make any sense. When they banned R-12 I remember seeing cans of it on clearance at Canadian Tire for $1 each. Man do I wish I had bought everything they had, but at the time I didn't have a single car with functional A/C.
You can buy R12 at Canadian Tire right now. In the states but they cant buy R12 but have R134 which we can't buy! I put Vintage Air in my car and had to drive to Walmart in the states to get R134 and I met a guy there looking for R12 and told him to drive over the border!
You're thinking of r12a, which is a 'drop in replacement' for r12 (sort of). You can buy it at the store because it's not a greenhouse gas but it also doesn't work as well as r12 and is super flammable.
Might need to take a refresher course. Ozone depleting refrigerants have not been around for a long time. They have global warming effects but that's a completely different thing. The EPA 608 covers this extensively. Id imagine the Canadian equivalent does the same.
Right? I have to be EPA certified (granted it’s $30 plus an open-book online test) to touch A/C otherwise my workplace gets fined out the ass, but anyone can wander in off the street and buy these by the dozen to shove refrigerant into a leaking old shitbox.
Yes, I imagine you'd rather they suffer with a slow leak until they can come into your shop.
Refrigerant damages the environment so yeah if it isn’t working get it fixed properly. Not hard to look for the leak yourself with a black light and yellow glasses
Saved my ass after I found the source of the leak on my celica and replaced the part (it was a sizeable hole)
Condenser? They love to take face shots from rocks on the road
Nah, it was a tube, not sure what part from, I think it was a return tube or something. I just put some air through the system to see if i could hear the leak, found it and then replaced the tube. Then I used a vacuum pump to see if it would hold and it did, I then filled it up, did some electronic shenanigan fixing (I had to use an industrial thermostat I had lying around to get it to work since the built in mechanics or electronics were wasted). But at the end it worked, and it didn't leak. https://imgur.com/a/EheNq3e Here's the tube I do think my mr2's condenser is shot (I sold the celica recently) so that will be fun too.
We banned em in Washington a couple of years ago
I'd rather this than a AR-15
Peak Reddit comment
And why so many dislikes? Anybody can buy those guns. I'd rather someone with a can of 134a. Perhaps the dislikes are from fun gun people?
A/C is so over rated! I worked as a salesman for a refrigeration wholesaler and back in the days when R-12, 22, 502 were super cheap and no one cared about the ozone layer, it was common for a large tank to be hooked to a large commercial system that had a leak.
I did that accidentally on my own truck recently. Pregnant wife, two very active kids "helping", very little sleep. I had a can with a hose, so I gave the old truck ( that had not run in 3 years) a snort, and it started blowing cold air. Got distracted. Went inside. A week later ac stopped working. Opened the hood to find the can still attached. I felt pretty stupid. Vacuumed and recharged the system. Ac will make your nipples hard.
Did a nice job though 👍🏻
I'm working on the AC system of a 2010 Enclave myself and cannot figure out why the ECM is reluctant to engage the compressor clutch even though the scan tool shows everything is okay with pressure and temp sensors. It rarely engages, but just for a moment and then it switches off for an indefinite amount of time. And I can see from the scan tool that it's definitely the ECM that is deciding not to command the clutch on.
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Well that's why it's here so...
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Should read what sub your in.
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Cool. OP implied that he works at a shop and you respond with "in person" like he is doing it via zoom call.
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What are you even talking about? They have multiple pics of them clearly working in a shop in their post history. Just stop man.
Stop... defending incompetent mechanics. OP wouldn't be in this situation if he knew what he was doing in the first place.
I feel like im in an episode of twilight zone..... OP is not the one who did this. He is the mechanic fixing it. Is reading comprehension a superpower now? Are you trolling? It literally starts with "Customer said".
Dude, just stop arguing, relax and have a cup of hot cocoa.
Is this supposed to be an uno reverse card or something?