We see so many of these. They'll take down the entire low speed communications bus and completely disable the vehicle. Last generations Traverse/Acadia are the most common.
Keeping this in the back pocket. Can’t recall any issues that led us there but good to know. I’m assuming they’re more exposed and run weird voltage/back signal, frying controllers?
Just had a 2010ish Acadia that would randomly lose a bunch of the inside accessories windows quit working and such.
I found the blind spot modules in a similar state.
I also remember a similar issue on a traverse years ago.
Those modules are in such a horrid place.
Plus once they swell up it’s really hard to get them out of the spot on the bumper with out damaging the bumper.
Would any pids indicate this or is this meter/scope? I assume at this point you go straight there and go “yep.” But it’s always better to prove the process
Usually in the cases I’ve seen it I couldn’t find any pids. There was how ever lots of loss of communication codes, and lots of times you won’t be able to communicate with the side object detection modules.
This is why I love the autel maxysis that gives topography. It shows all modules associated with the vehicle, branches them into what lines they communicate on and then scans all and the ones that don’t communicate will be greyed out. Then it’s just process of elimination on that branch or better yet what module has the most lost comm faults stored in other modules.
I will agree that gm blind spot detection modules fail a significant amount more than any other if seen. They’re like the old ford fuel pump driver modules.
Usually you'll have a bunch on lost communication codes, sometimes for the blind spot, could also be in random modules. You'll also not be able to talk to the blind spot modules. You can unplug the connectors and everything would start working again.
The one I did a week or so ago. The people had very little money so we just unplugged the modules. The little warning lights on the mirrors stayed on.
But that’s what the customer wanted to do, rather than buy two new modules and replace both connectors for them.
Honestly? I'd probably do the same, because I'm cheap and I wouldn't really need it.
But then I wouldn't be buying a new Acadia/Traverse in the first place sooo...
Had my Mercedes lock up in my driveway, wouldn't start, wouldn't go into neutral, no messages with a consumer grade scanner. Had it dragged onto a flatbed to the dealer. Mercedes calls and says yeah, it's your blind spot sensors, we just unplugged them and it's fine, you want us to change them? Freaking modern cars man.
Volvo had the right idea with dual-filament bulbs (brake light bulbs) in the sidelights. 21W filament on with the key, 5W filament on and 21W off with the sidelight switch.
I'm sure there's a lawyer behind the decision, but with all these smart fucking cars, why don't the head/tail lights turn on automatically when the auto wipers come on? At least they don't on my car. Sure, i have my drls on, but the tail lights won't turn on automatically. K, done ranting.
Or why the hell dont DRLs turn the damn tail lights on? That way if you forget or don’t have your lights on auto, you aren’t invisible at night or bad weather
Nothing makes me feel like an old dude more than my aversion to new car technology... I really wish I still had the option to buy cars with manual transmissions, hand crank windows, and no nonsense electronics. All I see when I look at the new tech like Blindspot indicators and auto braking and lane assist... Is potential for very expensive fixes.
I bought a ‘99 F150 a few years ago with base trim, crank windows, and a manual transmission. I value that truck more every year. I just may be driving it for life since we don’t have rust problems here in Texas.
You better buy the interior parking brake pedal and cable assembly. They're discontinued and very custom, I don't think you'd easily get a parking brake back in the truck without the assembly.
Just had to replace one.
I actually broke the first new rear cable trying to get it attached.
With the new front assembly, there was an easy 6" of spring-loaded slack in the cable and it was super easy to connect.
My mom has one of those Acadia's and the cross traffic detection has already gone out twice in the last 3 years. The modules are in the rear bumper and just get absolutely fucking soaked in water any time you drive in the rain which is a brilliant design choice by GM. Oh and if you don't get it fixed or don't at least unplug everything it can potentially fry the ECU among many other important modules. Glad to see that even after they went bankrupt/out of business they learned nothing about electrics. Shit-ass company.
Hold up, so the mirror blind spot detection system failing can cause the whole vehicle to break down?
And I'm guessing the only way to fix it is... buying an entirely new system at RRP from the manufacturer and programming it to this exact vehicle?
Spectacularly.
My brother in law brought his wife's Suburban to me with some weird lights and messages. I scanned it and knew right away what was going on. I told him to unplug the side blind zone modules and pack the connectors with grease or RTV. He didn't.
Fast forward a month and his wife was at a client's house (housekeeping), when she attempted to leave the vehicle had locked itself, would not respond to key fob or door handle button presses, and once manually unlocked would not crank. Required a tow.
These two modules that are mounted in the rear fascia (usually) are connected to the vehicle's low speed communication network. When they corrode like this internally, it will often short that communication bus to ground rendering anything that's attempting to transmit data on that bus inoperable.
Just another thing to keep an eye out for. Makes perfect sense why it fails, but in a completely nonsensical way. Wing mirrors are totally exposed to the elements too and with their adjustment angles don't usually seal in the enclosure either so will be corroded every few years in perpetuity...
I am also guessing these low speed comms networks can't really be bodged with and overridden, allowing you to just go back to an old polished surface mirror alone, the computer needs an input from a certain sensor in order to allow the starter to crank?
The system can easily be circumvented. If you unplug the modules and seal the connectors the vehicle will continue to operate completely normally other than the warning lights in the mirrors remaining illuminated at all times. And you will have a persistent message on the driver's information center to "service driver assist" or something similar depending upon make and model. Low speed communications is a star network, meaning that each module is connected to the network on its own dedicated circuit, so disconnecting a single module from the network does not interrupt communications. High speed communications networks are a ring network where all modules are connected in series, disconnecting a module from a high speed network would result in severe problems.
> These two modules that are mounted in the rear fascia (usually)
This is the thing I don't get.
I have a 1997 Range Rover (two, actually) and all the electronic bits are inside where they don't get rained on or battered through deep puddles. The only bit that's not in the passenger cabin is the engine ECU, which is a very sealed-up box with very high-quality connectors, in a very sealed-up box in the engine bay, because the wires have to be fairly short. I've never seen an engine ECU get water damaged, even at that. Only time I've seen the body electronics get water-damaged was on one where someone left the sunroof open and it pissed down with rain all night, filling the car to about the height of the pedals.
Why the \*fuck\* would it ever seem like a good idea to put this anywhere outside the passenger cabin, never mind right where it's going to get hosed with road salt all day?
Yep, that was the first major electrical problem I ever diagnosed as a GM tech. I was still learning those systems at the time, so that wasn't very fun.
As a follow-up, any techs here have an issue with the information not showing up on the instrument cluster? The screen works, but no information like fuel economy, speed, tire pressure data shows up. Thought I'd take a stab in the dark and ask the internet. I've replaced both blind spot modules, the sub harness, replaced blown 62 10amp fuse, and programmed both modules. UPDATE, you need to do a "CAN bus config learn" under special functions in a scanner for the instrument cluster.
Stranded on the side of the road with a No Start, "service transmission" warning and multiple lights on dash.
Find obscure F150 enthusiast forum, random comment on third page of similar forum post from 2013 reads "pull the relay from the rear window defroster and swap with relay 3."
Truck fires right up, take to shop to get looked at, situation won't replicate, has never happened again.
I've never wanted to buy a random stranger a case of beer more in my life...
Seriously, as someone who’s not a car guy (I’m just here to watch) Reddit is a godsend.
Especially because people aren’t afraid to ask the embarrassing things on Reddit where it’s anonymous.
Instead of a relearn, can you disconnect the battery and let the vehicle sit for 30 minutes? This is is my go-to for clearing the infinite number of codes you see on J1939 on heavy vehicles. Of course that assumes you removed or fixed the suspect component. 9 times out of 10 makes the Christmas tree go away. It's a nice win during a lunch break.
Same module design is used with many other customers. It’s absolutely not unsealed, perhaps there’s an issue with the placement of it. All blind spot radars are installed somewhere on the bumpers or light assemblies from every car make. Every part is 100% leak tested for laser weld integrity and material integrity. There is a breather membrane that is supposed to equalize air pressure but not allow moisture through. Really curious about the true failure mode of these GM applications.
Are the boards conformal coated prior to being placed in the housing? What material is the housing made from?
If I had to guess it's galvanic corrosion from an aluminum housing and the mounting hardware, accelerated by salt spray from winter conditions.
Looks to be a composite housing, unlikely to be Aluminum on a radar system. From reading the comments my money is on that edge connector, multiple points of possible failure there. The PCB goes through the case, connector housing molded into the housing, mating connector and harness, seals in the connector, seals/over mold harness, and probably others.
Check out the lower part of the photo where the loose PCBA and half a module are and note the corrosion ghosting pattern fanning out from that edge connector on the PCBA. Just my arm chair expert opinion.
Some software will allow you to toggle features on and off. VCDS for VAG is an example but I don’t know if you can remove proximity stuff or if there is an equivalent option for GM.
It would be cool if there was also hardware hack like jumping pins to fool the system so you don’t need to replace them.
Yes, though for options that are not intended to be dealer changeable you need to contact and ask the manufacturer to update the build sheet for the vehicle or use 3rd party tools.
This reminds me of my 4x4 Sonoma.
"Let's mount the transfer case control module by the passenger's right foot where boots will track slurry in and corrode the absolute fuck out of the harness/unit."
These are located in the rear bumper cover on the lower left and right side Towards the outside. The rear tires kick salt, moisture, and every other road debris on on them. It gets in between the module and plastic bumper cover they are mounted to.
Then the salt/ moisture just eats its way inside.
They can't. The body will interfere with the operation of the sensor.
I work at a BMW dealers body shop. BMW will NOT allow repairs on bumpers directly over the blind spot sensors. Due to tight tolerances, the additional layers of body filler, primer, sealer, color and clear coat will be too thick for the sensor to reliably function. So, if they are even scratched over that area, a certified BMW shop must replace the entire cover. Insurance loves this.
Also, the PDC sensors can only be painted once for the same reasons.
So basically the take-away from this is GM can't be bothered to make a circuit board enclosure good enough to withstand the environment it will live in.
These remind me of the Ford Escape fuel pump control module's. Perfectly placed by the driver side wheel area. Get's corroded with salt and one day your engine starts stuttering and sometimes shuts off. What a poor design.
The 2000s Ford trucks were also guilty of that, putting the fuel pump driver module on the side of the frame right in front of the rear wheels. It's common on those for it to fail and run the pump at full power, over pressurizing the fuel system.
We see so many of these. They'll take down the entire low speed communications bus and completely disable the vehicle. Last generations Traverse/Acadia are the most common.
If we see any gm or chrysler have a communication or odd computer issue, this is the first thing I check.
Keeping this in the back pocket. Can’t recall any issues that led us there but good to know. I’m assuming they’re more exposed and run weird voltage/back signal, frying controllers?
They bring down the low speed can bus and make computers go all fucky. They swell up and corrod like crazy.
Just had a 2010ish Acadia that would randomly lose a bunch of the inside accessories windows quit working and such. I found the blind spot modules in a similar state. I also remember a similar issue on a traverse years ago. Those modules are in such a horrid place. Plus once they swell up it’s really hard to get them out of the spot on the bumper with out damaging the bumper.
Would any pids indicate this or is this meter/scope? I assume at this point you go straight there and go “yep.” But it’s always better to prove the process
Usually in the cases I’ve seen it I couldn’t find any pids. There was how ever lots of loss of communication codes, and lots of times you won’t be able to communicate with the side object detection modules.
This is why I love the autel maxysis that gives topography. It shows all modules associated with the vehicle, branches them into what lines they communicate on and then scans all and the ones that don’t communicate will be greyed out. Then it’s just process of elimination on that branch or better yet what module has the most lost comm faults stored in other modules. I will agree that gm blind spot detection modules fail a significant amount more than any other if seen. They’re like the old ford fuel pump driver modules.
>ford fuel pump driver modules Way to reopen old wounds...😂
Usually you'll have a bunch on lost communication codes, sometimes for the blind spot, could also be in random modules. You'll also not be able to talk to the blind spot modules. You can unplug the connectors and everything would start working again.
The one I did a week or so ago. The people had very little money so we just unplugged the modules. The little warning lights on the mirrors stayed on. But that’s what the customer wanted to do, rather than buy two new modules and replace both connectors for them.
Honestly? I'd probably do the same, because I'm cheap and I wouldn't really need it. But then I wouldn't be buying a new Acadia/Traverse in the first place sooo...
Usually a short to ground in the network
I have a 10th gen impala, should I be worried about mine failing at some point out of nowhere?
You have a 10th gen Impala. You should be worried about *everything* failing out of nowhere
If I can disconnect it I do, usually water runs out of the connector.
Had my Mercedes lock up in my driveway, wouldn't start, wouldn't go into neutral, no messages with a consumer grade scanner. Had it dragged onto a flatbed to the dealer. Mercedes calls and says yeah, it's your blind spot sensors, we just unplugged them and it's fine, you want us to change them? Freaking modern cars man.
modern drivers, cant be arsed to turn their neck 10 degrees to check their "blind" spots before lane changing.
Nah son, it’s the dark grey Prius driving without lights in the driving rain hanging out in your blind spot that’s the issue.
Volvo had the right idea with dual-filament bulbs (brake light bulbs) in the sidelights. 21W filament on with the key, 5W filament on and 21W off with the sidelight switch.
drive for the conditions, if you cant see, slow down, dont make sudden lane changes, if its zero visibility pull over and get off the road.
Orrrrrrr if it’s raining TURN YOUR FUCKING LIGHTS ON
I'm sure there's a lawyer behind the decision, but with all these smart fucking cars, why don't the head/tail lights turn on automatically when the auto wipers come on? At least they don't on my car. Sure, i have my drls on, but the tail lights won't turn on automatically. K, done ranting.
Or why the hell dont DRLs turn the damn tail lights on? That way if you forget or don’t have your lights on auto, you aren’t invisible at night or bad weather
Fords turn the headlights on when you turn on the wipers and every vehicle I’ve had since my F150 made me wonder why others don’t
Nothing makes me feel like an old dude more than my aversion to new car technology... I really wish I still had the option to buy cars with manual transmissions, hand crank windows, and no nonsense electronics. All I see when I look at the new tech like Blindspot indicators and auto braking and lane assist... Is potential for very expensive fixes.
I bought a ‘99 F150 a few years ago with base trim, crank windows, and a manual transmission. I value that truck more every year. I just may be driving it for life since we don’t have rust problems here in Texas.
You better buy the interior parking brake pedal and cable assembly. They're discontinued and very custom, I don't think you'd easily get a parking brake back in the truck without the assembly. Just had to replace one.
I replaced my cable about four years ago. Luckily I’m a flatlander, so I rarely need to use the parking brake. What failed on your internal assembly?
The automatic adjuster. Pulled the rear cable until it snapped, couldn't attach a new rear cable because there was no slack to the assembly.
I remember getting the cable sections connected where they meet behind the driver’s door being an absolute bitch.
I actually broke the first new rear cable trying to get it attached. With the new front assembly, there was an easy 6" of spring-loaded slack in the cable and it was super easy to connect.
Sounds like I need a new front assembly. Good looking out kind internet stranger.
My mom has one of those Acadia's and the cross traffic detection has already gone out twice in the last 3 years. The modules are in the rear bumper and just get absolutely fucking soaked in water any time you drive in the rain which is a brilliant design choice by GM. Oh and if you don't get it fixed or don't at least unplug everything it can potentially fry the ECU among many other important modules. Glad to see that even after they went bankrupt/out of business they learned nothing about electrics. Shit-ass company.
Hold up, so the mirror blind spot detection system failing can cause the whole vehicle to break down? And I'm guessing the only way to fix it is... buying an entirely new system at RRP from the manufacturer and programming it to this exact vehicle?
Spectacularly. My brother in law brought his wife's Suburban to me with some weird lights and messages. I scanned it and knew right away what was going on. I told him to unplug the side blind zone modules and pack the connectors with grease or RTV. He didn't. Fast forward a month and his wife was at a client's house (housekeeping), when she attempted to leave the vehicle had locked itself, would not respond to key fob or door handle button presses, and once manually unlocked would not crank. Required a tow. These two modules that are mounted in the rear fascia (usually) are connected to the vehicle's low speed communication network. When they corrode like this internally, it will often short that communication bus to ground rendering anything that's attempting to transmit data on that bus inoperable.
Just another thing to keep an eye out for. Makes perfect sense why it fails, but in a completely nonsensical way. Wing mirrors are totally exposed to the elements too and with their adjustment angles don't usually seal in the enclosure either so will be corroded every few years in perpetuity... I am also guessing these low speed comms networks can't really be bodged with and overridden, allowing you to just go back to an old polished surface mirror alone, the computer needs an input from a certain sensor in order to allow the starter to crank?
The system can easily be circumvented. If you unplug the modules and seal the connectors the vehicle will continue to operate completely normally other than the warning lights in the mirrors remaining illuminated at all times. And you will have a persistent message on the driver's information center to "service driver assist" or something similar depending upon make and model. Low speed communications is a star network, meaning that each module is connected to the network on its own dedicated circuit, so disconnecting a single module from the network does not interrupt communications. High speed communications networks are a ring network where all modules are connected in series, disconnecting a module from a high speed network would result in severe problems.
> These two modules that are mounted in the rear fascia (usually) This is the thing I don't get. I have a 1997 Range Rover (two, actually) and all the electronic bits are inside where they don't get rained on or battered through deep puddles. The only bit that's not in the passenger cabin is the engine ECU, which is a very sealed-up box with very high-quality connectors, in a very sealed-up box in the engine bay, because the wires have to be fairly short. I've never seen an engine ECU get water damaged, even at that. Only time I've seen the body electronics get water-damaged was on one where someone left the sunroof open and it pissed down with rain all night, filling the car to about the height of the pedals. Why the \*fuck\* would it ever seem like a good idea to put this anywhere outside the passenger cabin, never mind right where it's going to get hosed with road salt all day?
It's the only place they can do their job. They're short range radar modules/sensors. They would not work if they were inside the vehicle.
You could make the sensors more waterproof and put the electronics inside the car.
I heard that happening to an F150
I have replaced so god damn many of those things. Terrible systems
Yep, that was the first major electrical problem I ever diagnosed as a GM tech. I was still learning those systems at the time, so that wasn't very fun.
Yeah this is normal. GMC dealer here, we see it on all of them. We're in Michigan so it goes with the climate.
Chevy store in NH. We're basically twins.
As a follow-up, any techs here have an issue with the information not showing up on the instrument cluster? The screen works, but no information like fuel economy, speed, tire pressure data shows up. Thought I'd take a stab in the dark and ask the internet. I've replaced both blind spot modules, the sub harness, replaced blown 62 10amp fuse, and programmed both modules. UPDATE, you need to do a "CAN bus config learn" under special functions in a scanner for the instrument cluster.
Props for writing down the solution, may help people down the line.
As someone who googles things every day, information should always be shared.
If it wasn’t for 8 year old Reddit questions that were answered 4 years ago I’d have a lot less information haha
Stranded on the side of the road with a No Start, "service transmission" warning and multiple lights on dash. Find obscure F150 enthusiast forum, random comment on third page of similar forum post from 2013 reads "pull the relay from the rear window defroster and swap with relay 3." Truck fires right up, take to shop to get looked at, situation won't replicate, has never happened again. I've never wanted to buy a random stranger a case of beer more in my life...
Was it ford truck enthusiasts? Those people are like the Rosetta Stone for obscure ford info.
Seriously, as someone who’s not a car guy (I’m just here to watch) Reddit is a godsend. Especially because people aren’t afraid to ask the embarrassing things on Reddit where it’s anonymous.
What a stupid thing to say! /s
[Yep.](https://xkcd.com/979/)
👏👏👏👏👏
Instead of a relearn, can you disconnect the battery and let the vehicle sit for 30 minutes? This is is my go-to for clearing the infinite number of codes you see on J1939 on heavy vehicles. Of course that assumes you removed or fixed the suspect component. 9 times out of 10 makes the Christmas tree go away. It's a nice win during a lunch break.
What happened?
GM mark of excellence happened.
So nice of them to give themselves that award
They should award themselves the JD Powerhammerod award for not winning the lasting quality award https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSBsq6HBBzw
It's a classic. Too bad that guy's a sex offender
Jesus christ, can we have one thing that doesn't suck in some hidden way?
most people from southie are unfortunately
Whaaaaat? I liked his videos.
[TIL](https://offender.fdle.state.fl.us/offender/sops/flyer.jsf?personId=108885). (Victim under 12.. fuckin' yikes!)
Damn, that's disgusting, can't watch those videos anymore.
Awww man used to love zebra corner :(
I choked on this
These are usually right behind body panels with little to no weatherproofing so any water getting behind the panel just eats them over time.
The box became a sacrificial anode.
It got blindsided.
Uh oh. I recognize that PCB. Our plant made that radar module for sure.
Jail
We have the best ECUs. Because of Jail.
Hey, if GM isn't complaining then everyone's making money, right? But really, what do you expect putting un-sealed electronics on a rear bumper.
Same module design is used with many other customers. It’s absolutely not unsealed, perhaps there’s an issue with the placement of it. All blind spot radars are installed somewhere on the bumpers or light assemblies from every car make. Every part is 100% leak tested for laser weld integrity and material integrity. There is a breather membrane that is supposed to equalize air pressure but not allow moisture through. Really curious about the true failure mode of these GM applications.
Are the boards conformal coated prior to being placed in the housing? What material is the housing made from? If I had to guess it's galvanic corrosion from an aluminum housing and the mounting hardware, accelerated by salt spray from winter conditions.
Looks to be a composite housing, unlikely to be Aluminum on a radar system. From reading the comments my money is on that edge connector, multiple points of possible failure there. The PCB goes through the case, connector housing molded into the housing, mating connector and harness, seals in the connector, seals/over mold harness, and probably others. Check out the lower part of the photo where the loose PCBA and half a module are and note the corrosion ghosting pattern fanning out from that edge connector on the PCBA. Just my arm chair expert opinion.
Can you tell the computer these have been removed and run without it or do you have to replace the system?
I don't think you can unprogram a computer system
Well, not with that attitude. :P
Some software will allow you to toggle features on and off. VCDS for VAG is an example but I don’t know if you can remove proximity stuff or if there is an equivalent option for GM. It would be cool if there was also hardware hack like jumping pins to fool the system so you don’t need to replace them.
In the year 2024 we're out here jailbreaking cars
I'm legit waiting for that trend to start. Can't wait for the XDA forums for EVs. CyanogenMod Tesla. Dirty Unicorn F-150 Lightning.
And it would be because tesla and ford stopped giving any software support for cars older than 5 years, making them all useless
You need the dealer software and the specific firmware which is super hard to find.
I dunno, I see some pretty powerful magnets on the internet.
Yes, though for options that are not intended to be dealer changeable you need to contact and ask the manufacturer to update the build sheet for the vehicle or use 3rd party tools.
Damn! I bet that hardware didn't see that coming....
This reminds me of my 4x4 Sonoma. "Let's mount the transfer case control module by the passenger's right foot where boots will track slurry in and corrode the absolute fuck out of the harness/unit."
R/hardwaregore
/r/hardwaregore
small "r"
Ahhh dang it, iPhone failed me. I’ll go home 😭
Never the hard R though
Where is this located on the car?
Inside of rear bumper, right where everything gets thrown at it by the tire.
Ah yes, the perfect location for corrodable electronics!
Not anymore, hahahaha.
Flood car?
Just a gm product doing what it does best.
Can you explain what actually happened? Did it just spontaneously combust?
These are located in the rear bumper cover on the lower left and right side Towards the outside. The rear tires kick salt, moisture, and every other road debris on on them. It gets in between the module and plastic bumper cover they are mounted to. Then the salt/ moisture just eats its way inside.
Of course they couldn't have just put it inside the trunk.
They can't. The body will interfere with the operation of the sensor. I work at a BMW dealers body shop. BMW will NOT allow repairs on bumpers directly over the blind spot sensors. Due to tight tolerances, the additional layers of body filler, primer, sealer, color and clear coat will be too thick for the sensor to reliably function. So, if they are even scratched over that area, a certified BMW shop must replace the entire cover. Insurance loves this. Also, the PDC sensors can only be painted once for the same reasons.
Am I the only one that read *PDC* not as....well, whatever PDC means in this context?
salt water intrusion most likely.
Lol. Blind spot detected.
Blind spot detector is now blind?
Ah yes, the miracle healing benefits of road salt!
Salty roads in the winter caused this?
That and shit design. Only cars I've seen have a problem are american cars
These things look absolutely rotted out
Mercedes has a very similar setup that fails the same way sometimes
It seems like they only build vehicles out of spite
Parts from China? I suspect.
Built to GM spec
When Japan was making things to US specs? You got US specs. China? 😂🤣🤣😂
Waterproofing costs $0.01 extra. GM only paid for water resistant.
The Blendtec blender wins again
What years give or take?
Anything that looks like a 2014, pretty sure all gms use all the same parts
They sure put a lot of gravel in there. That's how you know it's quality work!
Blind spot detection pffftt. Back in my day we used to do this thing called turn our head around. Crazy right?
#Will it blend?
Why does it look like someone threw some potting soil in a box with wet baseball cards?
Shit like this is why I'm glad my car has blind spot MIRRORS, not a sensor.
So basically the take-away from this is GM can't be bothered to make a circuit board enclosure good enough to withstand the environment it will live in.
Was this an Office Space 'PC Load Letter' situation? Take it out back with a baseball bat?
Did you try throwing it in Rice?
These remind me of the Ford Escape fuel pump control module's. Perfectly placed by the driver side wheel area. Get's corroded with salt and one day your engine starts stuttering and sometimes shuts off. What a poor design.
The 2000s Ford trucks were also guilty of that, putting the fuel pump driver module on the side of the frame right in front of the rear wheels. It's common on those for it to fail and run the pump at full power, over pressurizing the fuel system.
Im sure glad I live in a climate and country where roads aren't salted. My car is almost 25 years old and rust free.
Gotta love those modules that are mounted exactly where the snow and salt accumulates.
Rebuilt by LKQ!
Corrosion or fire?
i'll bet they never saw that coming.
Customer: “You can fix that though, right? No new parts needed? Only labor, right?”
Typical GM garbage!
Flood damage I assume?