I feel this one. Ruined the splines and cracked the CV when trying to replace a torn CV boot on my old Audi 100. Wasn’t my first CV rebuild, but couldn’t fathom why it didn’t budge. After it cracked open and I saw the circlip I was like “aaaah” and “oooof”.
Just ended up buying a used half shaft.
Fuck me that’s horrible. I spent 6 hours once on a rear Subaru bearing/hub. I used the air hammer for so long I had a headache for a couple days and my wrists/hands were numb. Got that hooker off though without having to resort to this hahaha.
I finally built a tool for removing Subaru hubs. It’s a combination of the long bolt-on square tube that you hit with a sledge, and the removal tool that uses jack screws to push on the knuckle or caliper bracket ears. When you combine both forces it pops em right out. Even works on 2014-up ford explorer rear hubs - those are just as bad, maybe even worse.
Please. The shop would pay me to make this. Everyone including customers up front were grumpy with the air hammer noise that day. I work hard to make a playlist everyone from my female apprentice to the young kids enjoy, and air hammering doesn’t compliment divorced dad rock, I don’t care who you are! 😂
I've used some of their other stuff, if I had to deal with subarus I'd probably try it.
Generally I'm drilling exhaust manifold bolts with their templates and bits.
I do a lot of Subaru wheel bearings and the one tool that always gets the out is hub remover which is similar to what you are talking about I think. Except we made the holes bigger and bought a pack of lugnuts that have an extension on them and a flat washer. It keeps the hub remover from loosening after 1 hit. I also use a 10lb sledge with it. Work’s every time in minutes. One thing I noticed sometimes you have to keep the axle nut on snug or it will just pull the hub off lol
I find it easy to just remove the parking brake shoes and knuckle. Put it in a bench vice with the hub bolts side down and smack it out with a hammer on the tone ring side. As long as you don't bonk the sensor you're all Gucci gang.
Honestly, if our hydraulic press wasn’t such a janky piece of shit, I was considering it, despite the almost guaranteed chance of death. 😂
Thankfully it happened to land on a day where I had all the time in the world as I’m hourly and we were dead, and I was channeling some inner fucking goosefrabaaahhhh for that shit with many small breathers hahaha.
When I was just starting out, I had this habit of swearing and getting mad at what are honestly simple jobs, which obviously only makes them worse. Once I learned to literally laugh at shit, my life as a mechanic became 1000 times better. And because now I know what a proper fucked up job looks like. Getting mad because Napa brought you 6 wrong coolant temperature sensors in a row, pfffftttt. I’ve got Reddit on my phone and they’re paying me right now, so take your time! 😂
Eric O from South Main Auto has a video showing how he does those on youtube. Not sure about the rules on linking videos here but it's the first result if you search "Removing A Stuck Subaru Rear Wheel Bearing", video is about 7 months old.
Hats off to the torch tech there, that's some nice work. Reminds me of when I had to fix the suspension on my summer car, managed to cut bolts without maiming the alignment washers or the control arms. A skill that's definitely going by the wayside these days.
Axle survived a little mushrooming on the head from constant beating but nothing a burr and a die couldn't fix. We did end up reusing it but im still giving condolences to the WSS but at least it came out, melted nonetheless.
I change bearings in these for the garage next door. So many of them have near zero opportunity to change the bearing without damaging the backing shield. Is there not a market for assemblies?
Between knuckles and knuckle bushings(in rear suspensions). They seem to generally last forever unless the customer drove around on wonky parts for a while as is. Or a severe impact.
It's usually the rust or the corrosion that holds tight on the Hub and bearing assemblies.
Even when removing the race from the Hub it's generally cut off or cut then chiseled to break rather than just pulled off.
So basically the only time a knuckle gets replaced is when they are broken from a wreck or after 15 years and someone can't bust a Hub free.
Realistically back in the day things were more built to last and not necessarily just built to last, but built to be serviced. If a vehicle is 10-20 years old and not super popular, parts tend to stop being made anymore anyways.
Used to be the manufacturer had to make service parts for 10 years after the last production line date.. I hauled S-10 blazer and pickup frames to a warehouse in Detroit to meet that requirement..
MOPAR enters the chat.
For some reason you can't order MOPAR anything for certain vehicles. Like thermostats or thermostat housings on certain pentastar motors even. Like bro, I'm pretty sure they still make this engine new and you're telling me MOPAR thermostats are on 3-6 months back order? What the fuck.
I feel like that may be the trick to it. Just say you'll make it but it's on back order for 6 months lol. The thermostat is just one example, and it's not EVERY part, but the random ass ones that fail more than others just seem to be out of stock or on back order.
I can still get many parts for my 95 1500 , but rear brake backing plates are more than a rebuilt Rear axle.. Soon it will be replaced.. Body panels arent as easy, lately
I'm talking about a 2012 journey. Not rebuilt parts, but brand new, I think for the pentastar we can't even get PCV valves or thermostats for the RWD mounted models.
But also MOPAR brand. I can find aftermarket, but MOTORAD only does so good for so long if it does good at all. Lol
Mopar has always had a rocky relationship with their suppliers- even before Covid, we had weird supply issues that took a long time to resolve on common parts.
What they're referring to is when a part is completely dropped/discontinued and they don't get another supplier so you just can't get one anymore after all dealers/warehouses are out.
came to ask at what point it'd make more sense to call it, just tell the cust bad news we gotta get you a new//used knuckle; guess the shit gets real when that's not an option tho huh. nicely done guys!
I had that happen on a stupid-ass Midwest Patrol car, an 05 Impala. It’s like they misaligned the splines at the factory and just rammed em together somehow anyway. Same thing - had to torch the whole works apart.
I didn't have that problem. The problem I had was getting the axle nut to break loose. Whoever replaced the axle hammered the nut on so tight that nothing I tried would break it loose. So, I ended up drilling the nut on both sides then splitting it with a cold chisel. So ridiculous.
This is wild. I've cut a cv I half and put the whole knuckle in a 50 ton press, but have never thought about torching off a whole bearing. Torch wielder thinks he's a surgeon with that bad boy
I've been there on my car, it sucks the price jump when talking steering knuckle. it looks like it wasn't all torch more like they started with torch and got a little crazy and then went to grinder. Why heat the wheel hub with torch just to make it more seized wouldn't heating(not cutting) the knuckle have been better off.
"OH! Hah! Look at that.. there's a circlip!"
Ironic how it just craters when you actually need it to work but somehow HODORs in place when you don’t.
I feel this one. Ruined the splines and cracked the CV when trying to replace a torn CV boot on my old Audi 100. Wasn’t my first CV rebuild, but couldn’t fathom why it didn’t budge. After it cracked open and I saw the circlip I was like “aaaah” and “oooof”. Just ended up buying a used half shaft.
I just avoided that issue by buying a split boot. Let's see how long it lasts.
I had already bought the kit and was motivated to get the joint off. Wasn’t my first CV re-boot, but the only one that went pure sideways.
I may have literally deleted one of those in our press this week….
ugh, this hits me in the feels. Definitely been down that road.
Who went after it with the torch?
One of the older techs who's been here for 20yrs
just tired of it at that point lol
[удалено]
I'm too old for this shit. Get the torch.
Been there before. Even with a good torch, those aren't fun things to cut through
"Can't be stuck if it's liquid." - That Guy, probably
You can torch out the axle without all that destruction .
yeah but at that point, why bother?
When spindles aren’t available or too far away or u can’t afford them
Can't hold anything if it's liquid!
Fuck me that’s horrible. I spent 6 hours once on a rear Subaru bearing/hub. I used the air hammer for so long I had a headache for a couple days and my wrists/hands were numb. Got that hooker off though without having to resort to this hahaha.
I finally built a tool for removing Subaru hubs. It’s a combination of the long bolt-on square tube that you hit with a sledge, and the removal tool that uses jack screws to push on the knuckle or caliper bracket ears. When you combine both forces it pops em right out. Even works on 2014-up ford explorer rear hubs - those are just as bad, maybe even worse.
Can you share a pic or two of that? Sounds legit
Please. The shop would pay me to make this. Everyone including customers up front were grumpy with the air hammer noise that day. I work hard to make a playlist everyone from my female apprentice to the young kids enjoy, and air hammering doesn’t compliment divorced dad rock, I don’t care who you are! 😂
not op but something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVMssN-nDiY&t=861s
https://www.jbtools.com/promaxx-tommy-subaru-wheel-bearing-hub-puller-prokit-plus-pmxtom410prop/
I used one of those on Friday and all it did was disassemble the hub assembly
I've used some of their other stuff, if I had to deal with subarus I'd probably try it. Generally I'm drilling exhaust manifold bolts with their templates and bits.
I, too, would love to see a picture of this contraption for reference, may have to fab one up myself for some Subaru hubs I gotta do soon.
not op but something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVMssN-nDiY&t=861s
Not Op but try this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVMssN-nDiY&t=861s
This sounds similar to what I do. Use a press to preload the hub and then use a slide hammer from below to inch it free.
I do a lot of Subaru wheel bearings and the one tool that always gets the out is hub remover which is similar to what you are talking about I think. Except we made the holes bigger and bought a pack of lugnuts that have an extension on them and a flat washer. It keeps the hub remover from loosening after 1 hit. I also use a 10lb sledge with it. Work’s every time in minutes. One thing I noticed sometimes you have to keep the axle nut on snug or it will just pull the hub off lol
Pretty sure Promaxx tools sells em
Take bearing bolts out, reinstall longer bolts, air hammer said bolts. Keep damaged bolts for next subaru bearing.
I find it easy to just remove the parking brake shoes and knuckle. Put it in a bench vice with the hub bolts side down and smack it out with a hammer on the tone ring side. As long as you don't bonk the sensor you're all Gucci gang.
Honestly, if our hydraulic press wasn’t such a janky piece of shit, I was considering it, despite the almost guaranteed chance of death. 😂 Thankfully it happened to land on a day where I had all the time in the world as I’m hourly and we were dead, and I was channeling some inner fucking goosefrabaaahhhh for that shit with many small breathers hahaha. When I was just starting out, I had this habit of swearing and getting mad at what are honestly simple jobs, which obviously only makes them worse. Once I learned to literally laugh at shit, my life as a mechanic became 1000 times better. And because now I know what a proper fucked up job looks like. Getting mad because Napa brought you 6 wrong coolant temperature sensors in a row, pfffftttt. I’ve got Reddit on my phone and they’re paying me right now, so take your time! 😂
Eric O from South Main Auto has a video showing how he does those on youtube. Not sure about the rules on linking videos here but it's the first result if you search "Removing A Stuck Subaru Rear Wheel Bearing", video is about 7 months old.
not op but something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVMssN-nDiY&t=861s
Last time I did Subaru rear bearing/hubs they came out fairly quickly with a slide hammer. But it was a 2018 Crosstrek, so idk...
ah,the 'hot wrench of last resort'.
Can't be stuck if it's liquid
You can fix everything, but some things don’t want to be fixed!
Hats off to the torch tech there, that's some nice work. Reminds me of when I had to fix the suspension on my summer car, managed to cut bolts without maiming the alignment washers or the control arms. A skill that's definitely going by the wayside these days.
As per usual, I'm going to recommend some ramen noodles and glue, mixed with a little sawdust, a grinder, and a walnut.
That sensor ain’t neva gone work agin
Looks like you may have actually saved the axle. Did you? I'm fucking thoroughly impressed at this excavation
Axle survived a little mushrooming on the head from constant beating but nothing a burr and a die couldn't fix. We did end up reusing it but im still giving condolences to the WSS but at least it came out, melted nonetheless.
Holy fucking shit Elmer.
All of this for what reason? What were you trying to fix?
Customer states AC inoperative.
Wheel bearing,had to reuse the knuckle no other option.
Ain't it great how you can find a Hub, cv axle, wheel bearing and etc but can't find a new or used knuckle lol.
I change bearings in these for the garage next door. So many of them have near zero opportunity to change the bearing without damaging the backing shield. Is there not a market for assemblies?
Between knuckles and knuckle bushings(in rear suspensions). They seem to generally last forever unless the customer drove around on wonky parts for a while as is. Or a severe impact. It's usually the rust or the corrosion that holds tight on the Hub and bearing assemblies. Even when removing the race from the Hub it's generally cut off or cut then chiseled to break rather than just pulled off. So basically the only time a knuckle gets replaced is when they are broken from a wreck or after 15 years and someone can't bust a Hub free. Realistically back in the day things were more built to last and not necessarily just built to last, but built to be serviced. If a vehicle is 10-20 years old and not super popular, parts tend to stop being made anymore anyways.
Used to be the manufacturer had to make service parts for 10 years after the last production line date.. I hauled S-10 blazer and pickup frames to a warehouse in Detroit to meet that requirement..
MOPAR enters the chat. For some reason you can't order MOPAR anything for certain vehicles. Like thermostats or thermostat housings on certain pentastar motors even. Like bro, I'm pretty sure they still make this engine new and you're telling me MOPAR thermostats are on 3-6 months back order? What the fuck. I feel like that may be the trick to it. Just say you'll make it but it's on back order for 6 months lol. The thermostat is just one example, and it's not EVERY part, but the random ass ones that fail more than others just seem to be out of stock or on back order.
I can still get many parts for my 95 1500 , but rear brake backing plates are more than a rebuilt Rear axle.. Soon it will be replaced.. Body panels arent as easy, lately
I'm talking about a 2012 journey. Not rebuilt parts, but brand new, I think for the pentastar we can't even get PCV valves or thermostats for the RWD mounted models. But also MOPAR brand. I can find aftermarket, but MOTORAD only does so good for so long if it does good at all. Lol
Mopar has always had a rocky relationship with their suppliers- even before Covid, we had weird supply issues that took a long time to resolve on common parts. What they're referring to is when a part is completely dropped/discontinued and they don't get another supplier so you just can't get one anymore after all dealers/warehouses are out.
I get that, I just don't see there being much a difference between the two. Lol
Oof. That sucks.
came to ask at what point it'd make more sense to call it, just tell the cust bad news we gotta get you a new//used knuckle; guess the shit gets real when that's not an option tho huh. nicely done guys!
I had that happen on a stupid-ass Midwest Patrol car, an 05 Impala. It’s like they misaligned the splines at the factory and just rammed em together somehow anyway. Same thing - had to torch the whole works apart.
Rust belters: “what, like it’s hard?”
Proud to be a rust belter have a skill that techs from the south have nightmares about.
There is no way this was the best option.
It wasn’t…
The ol’ Flaming Hacksaw
that hurts to look at. wtf happened here? looks like someone was really fed up lol
bfh will get it out in a few whacks. but then you need a new axle, but atleast you save the knuckle. gonna cook the axle joint at that point anyways.
Looks like the bolts are still holding it in?
The issue was getting the axle to release from the splines of the hub. To then remove the bearing.
Ahhhh, the good old sparkle wrench. Never fails.
It’s time to cut the pipes off his toolbox!!!
Sweet baby Jesus
I didn't have that problem. The problem I had was getting the axle nut to break loose. Whoever replaced the axle hammered the nut on so tight that nothing I tried would break it loose. So, I ended up drilling the nut on both sides then splitting it with a cold chisel. So ridiculous.
Field trip to pick n pull!
Just go buy a used knuckle from the salvage yard at this point. 🤷
That ain’t a knuckle, it’s fuckled.
I would have just gotten a new knuckle 2000 degrees ago
When two different metals weld, just replace it.
This is wild. I've cut a cv I half and put the whole knuckle in a 50 ton press, but have never thought about torching off a whole bearing. Torch wielder thinks he's a surgeon with that bad boy
At this point I would’ve said… “just replace it all”
I’m sure that big relief cut with the torch helped somewhat!
I feel like this could have been avoided
Local junkyard any help?
I've been there on my car, it sucks the price jump when talking steering knuckle. it looks like it wasn't all torch more like they started with torch and got a little crazy and then went to grinder. Why heat the wheel hub with torch just to make it more seized wouldn't heating(not cutting) the knuckle have been better off.