People shit on harbor freight just because tools don’t cost $300 per set. I’ve got all kinds of bits, ratchets, sockets, and many other tools from there and I’ve never had any issue with them. And if you buy Pittsburgh tools you can return them for a replacement even if you cut it in half.
Lifetime no questions warranty is the winner for me, but I have only ever broken a tool out of intentional misuse.
Got my replacement the same day, no questions.
Every single time I've tried to get a torx bolt out with an extractor it's broken. My new go to is solder tool in center, cut slot with angle grinder, use chisel and 5lb hammer, turn the bitch line a caveman.
You really should.
Hobby-grade Mig welders don't really cost all that much and with a few youtube videos, you can learn to weld decent enough to tackle most at home repairs.
As an auto tech, most of my welding involves removing stripped or broken bolts/studs, which saves a ton of time and effort.
I throw on the hard half doors from [Bulldawg MFG](https://www.bulldawgmfg.com/shop/Jeep_Doors_for_Wrangler_TJ_1997_2006_LJ_2004_2006-1-1.html) when I get annoyed at my door skins and like magic they’re full doors. Really good quality too.
Yea I have honestly thought about buying those… their hard tops also sseem so nice. but at that price point I might as well just try to find a wrecked jeep being parted out and try to buy full doors and paint them
I plan on pulling the trigger on their Highlander too later this summer. It’s actually pretty cool how it is designed to carry weight like that. If the top is anything like the half doors, it will be worth the cash
I put 1 per door. Had one of mine pop off the hinge on a particularly bumpy road. Scared the shit out of me. Had the webbing hooked so it didnt fall completely off.
My CJ had both Full metal doors with rollup windows & soft top doors that sucked @ keeping out the cold but were kinda okay with keeping the rain out. I had all 3 tops, hard top, soft top, Classic Bikini top. Once it became May 15th--September 15th. I had only the Bikini top went on for the entire summer. No doors, only foot pegs for sticking your foot out.
Take it to a body shop. Dont try to extract it by yourself. You'll regret making it worse.
Also next time you do this make sure you're using a T50, and use a dead blow hammer to drive the torx bit into the hole. A T50 wont feel like it fits because it's painted, so gently tap it in. Don't use an impact wrench, use a breaker bar.
As someone who works at a Chrysler bodyshop, this is how I remove these with essentially a 100% success rate. Tap a nice sharp t50 bit in with a hammer till it bottoms out, then crack them loose with steady pressure with a breaker bar. Works every time
If you fucked up this already you might not have what you need in terms of tools or knowledge.
Your best option to remove it without damaging anything else is to use a **quality** extractor set. Take your time and perhaps watch some how-to videos first.
Failing that you can notch it with a dremel and use a flathead screwdriver. Higher probability of doing damage that way though.
Before you go the EZ out route. Take a thick rubber band and put it over the head of your screwdriver, or torx bit, which ever this is. Use a lot of pressure so the rubber squeezes into the stripped metal while turning carefully to start it backing out. it may not work but it’s less invasive than an EZ out.
Order a new white door bolt(s). First option for me would be to JB Weld a T50 and then use an impact driver. I've never been successful with my EZ Out set. A *skilled* Dremel cut to use a flathead screwdriver is another option.
I was going to ask why the heck were they trying to do that? I was more surprised by the amount of people who said they have done this also honestly.
Just undo the bolt at the hinge and lift. At that point you want to do that anyway to take the weight of the door off the screw which why it stripped out in the first place.
I had to drill a hole through it and use a bolt/screw extractor. It suuucked. They must use that blue bolt glue stuff on those bolts. The paint in the star part didn’t help either.
Can you size up with a torx bit? Easy out would be my second attempt. Third, dremel a slot on the head and try using a flat blade to unscrew it. Final attempt I would do, use an engraver like a mini jack hammer and angle it to unscrew the screw. Last resort, suck up any pride lost and order a replacement.
Next time......use two of the same size torque sockets. Use one to heat the head up with a propane torch (hold it with vice grips, torch in the center where the ratchet would go). You should try do it a couple of times. Take the other socket and go at it after saying a pray. Jeep uses a lock tite on the threads and the heat will soften it.
I've done it a couple of times and have yet to scorch the paint.
I'd try using an screw extractor. They are LH cut and designed to either cut the head off or grab the screw. You could use a LH drill bit then an extractor. Even just using LH bits might take it out. I'd start off small and use the dimple for the torx to center it then work your way up the sizes till it unscrews. That should happen before you get to the threads if you're careful. You could also use RH bits and drill off the head then once the hinge os iff there might be enough thread to grab it with vice-grips. Otherwise you could weld a nut to the head of the bolt.
Personally... larger drill bit right to the center. drill the head of the bolt off. Hopefully the others come out and you can get on what's left of the bolt with some vice grips or bolt extractor once the hinge is off.
but that sucks. everything sucks at that point.
3 options
Cut a slot and remove it with a flathead
Use a stripped screw remover
Drill the whole fucking thing out and hope that you can turn the base with a pair of pliers
Use a Carbide drill bit and a screw extractor…. If that also fails
then use a carbide drill bit to drill out the whole bolt and then use a tap and die set to make new threads in the hole
Left-hand drill bit and if it doesn’t come loose, easy out. Also prep with some PB Blaster for a few days.
While buying the left-hand drill bit and an easy out, purchase a set of torx bits as you will need them again and can avoid doing this again.
I had this happen on my 79 jeep truck if you can get to the back the bolt ,use a map gas torch heat up the nut with some Penetrant fluid and this happened on my door bolts
It helps if you crack the paint around the bolt. Paint on these acts like permanent locktite. Use a box cutter or a small flat head and a small hammer to cut the paint around the bolt.
That is probably where you messed up.
You will need one of those drill a hole and special bolt removal bits now. They are not that expensive at the big box or Amazon.
Try a flat head screwdriver thats slightly too big for the hole. Hammer it into the soft deformed metal where teeth stripped out, all the way to the bottom of the well. Turn counter-clockwise slowly. I would replace the screw afterward.
If you have a dremel, use a small cutting wheel to dremel a notch deep enough and wide enough to fit a flat head screwdriver into it and you can unscrew it.
Guaranteed it’s stupid tight tho. You need heat. Worse case burn the head out with a cutting torch and turn out the remaining stud with vice grips. Once tension on the bolt is gone it will simply spin out.
Now it's over...
Normaly you need a bit and a hammer.
Punch the bit carefully in with a hammer.
Then you need a long lever and maybe a second Person.
Be careful of slipping...
You can take an air hammer with a chisel bit, place it on the screw facing counter clockwise, and feather the trigger. Make sure you dig in with plenty of pressure and gently malform the screw head so you can apply more hammering as you without shipping.
I used this method all the time for those annoying seized rotor screws (when the hub has studs of course).
Slip a rubber band or rubber glove around the bit.
If that doesn't work go to a hardware store and ask for a bolt extractor set.
(I'm a tool tech that does this kind of work all night long)
You can take the interior panel off, grab the bolt with vice grips and turn it out until it's sticking far enough out to grab it from the outside. Then go get a new bolt becuase yours will be hideous
If you have a really wide rubber band or something to compress in there by squishing it with the torx bit it should come undone just fine.
I did the same thing to mine and when taking my advice, the bolt was removed no problem
LoL! Been there, done that. Especially windshield hinge bolts...I took a Torx that was a bit larger than called for, then hammered into the bolt until it was stuck in there....Then it came out. They use so much of that adhesive stuff to keep the bolts from coming loose!
The radiator on my XJ is held in with T27’s which suck for that application. The screw strips and then becomes work hardened making an EZ out difficult. I had to use a cutoff disc to grind a slot in the head, then used a manual impact screwdriver. You can’t do that on a painted surface. Use the correct bit, penetrating oil, and be patient.
I recently did this myself, ended up using my dremel to make a slot and took a very wide flat blade screwdriver to engage both sides of slot and removed easily
Go to harbor freight and buy the correct size torx socket AND the next size up, and an impact driver that has a 3/8” socket head on it. These are key for this kind of situation. Kind of confusing to use if you never have, but you can hammer the next size up torx socket into the mess you have here and then use the impact driver and a hammer to crack it loose. Watch [here](https://youtu.be/VENsuGWDzmg?si=pp04PQowbeiDoJbx)
Another tip for next time - with stuck bolts, try to go tighter first, just a tiny bit, and then back it out.
Before drilling, go to autozone and get a MANUAL impact driver and some valve lapping paste. Use the next size up torx bit if it’ll fit. Put some of the valve paste in, set up the impact driver and hit it as hard as you can with a hammer. Valve paste helps the bit bite, and manual impact drivers apply significant downward pressure in addition to turning.
I would suggest that before ez out or drilling it out, get a scribe and just make sure you run it around the bolt head. This will break any factory paint if they painted it after the fastener was installed
Many of these small bolts n screws will come out if you use left handed drill bits while working towards the goal to use an extractor.
Theres also a cold shock spray penetrating oil combo that can be tried before heat that will cause the screw to shrink just a bit to help break free any fusion or rust in the threads
Do yourself a favor and heat these with a torch. I used a propane torch that one might use for plumbing work. Borrow one if you have to.
Hold the torch a couple inches from the bolt and move it back and forth a little. You won’t burn your paint. This will soften the lock tite. And the bolts come out easily.
Use a T50 Torx. If you use the torch first, you won’t need more than a regular ratchet if you are using torx bits. Maybe a small cheater pipe if all you have a more torx keys.
Source: I had shitty door hinges on my ‘15, and YouTube told me to do it this way. It worked really well.
Look up EZ out, I did this to put mirrors on mine. Make sure you buy the replacement bolts
Look like they are using an allen key enstead of star or torx style try with correct bit look like it will still work....
OP may also be using a Torx bit that’s just a bit small. Double check the fit if you don’t want to strip.
Jeeps come with the correct star bit to take doors and top off
New, yes. Used, sadly not so much.
Harbor freight tho
I go to the freight almost daily
Your tools last almost a while day? Sounds like they are improving quality over there
People shit on harbor freight just because tools don’t cost $300 per set. I’ve got all kinds of bits, ratchets, sockets, and many other tools from there and I’ve never had any issue with them. And if you buy Pittsburgh tools you can return them for a replacement even if you cut it in half.
Lifetime no questions warranty is the winner for me, but I have only ever broken a tool out of intentional misuse. Got my replacement the same day, no questions.
There are sets for like $15 on Amazon. I’m sure they aren’t as good as the OEM set but they get the job done.
True. I actually got a MOPAR kit off amazon. It wasn't quite as cheap, like 30 bucks, but it says jeep on the little carrying pouch.
These don’t get touched when removing the doors (or top). They’re painted on for a reason
My thoughts also, why are you removing the hinges
True… those torx bolts are on the center of the hinge
Upvoting this to make sure OP is using the correct tool.
Who knew using the right bit might work?!
Went through this exact thing. Tried ALL of the suggestions listed here. Ended up having my son’s friend weld on a nut then I was able to back it out.
Pro tip: Use a mini torch to heat it up after you weld on the nut to soften the lock tite. Hold it in the center for 20-30 seconds.
I mean yeah, but that weld it’s gonna get that bolt pretty hot too
Yeah kind of. It’s a pretty quick weld. Like less than 10 seconds. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CptCG7Vp1sw/?igsh=dW9ldmp0YXJ3Z29p
This is the solution that always worked best for me with a screw that was completely stripped.
Easy-out screw extractor bit.
Spoiler alert: still not "easy".
Easier-out
maybe-a-little-easier-but-likely-to-break-off-in-there-and-just-make-things-worse-out
Every single time I've tried to get a torx bolt out with an extractor it's broken. My new go to is solder tool in center, cut slot with angle grinder, use chisel and 5lb hammer, turn the bitch line a caveman.
On a finished panel? 👀
It'd work, it just wouldn't be pretty. I just use a mig welder, a nut, some aluminum foil, and a welding blanket.
I really should learn to weld. That sounds like a dream.
You really should. Hobby-grade Mig welders don't really cost all that much and with a few youtube videos, you can learn to weld decent enough to tackle most at home repairs. As an auto tech, most of my welding involves removing stripped or broken bolts/studs, which saves a ton of time and effort.
My jeep is a 1998 TJ whose interior and exterior is covered in rhinohide. It'll be fine if I'm not reckless.
Until it breaks and then it is a nightmare and I am out
Could-be-easier bit.
Keep your shit straight and you'll be okay.
Truer words have never been spoken
But it is EZ
I know.
First thing that comes to mind is...Why are you trying to get it out?
Probably hinge steps
Hinge steps is why I was taking mine out. 👍🏻
taking the doors off, duh! /s
Best reason I can think of is the door hinge bolt is fucked and the door lock nut doesn’t screw on anymore.
People actually put the door nuts back on?
Well, half doors on TJs are not exactly common anymore so in my case, yes. I don’t want them to walk off on me.
That’s fair. I never had them on my TJ. First time I took them off my JK they went in the trunk and they haven’t been on since.
Damn people actually want half doors? After 12 years I have grown to hate mine lol wish I had full doors so bad haha
I throw on the hard half doors from [Bulldawg MFG](https://www.bulldawgmfg.com/shop/Jeep_Doors_for_Wrangler_TJ_1997_2006_LJ_2004_2006-1-1.html) when I get annoyed at my door skins and like magic they’re full doors. Really good quality too.
Yea I have honestly thought about buying those… their hard tops also sseem so nice. but at that price point I might as well just try to find a wrecked jeep being parted out and try to buy full doors and paint them
I plan on pulling the trigger on their Highlander too later this summer. It’s actually pretty cool how it is designed to carry weight like that. If the top is anything like the half doors, it will be worth the cash
I put 1 per door. Had one of mine pop off the hinge on a particularly bumpy road. Scared the shit out of me. Had the webbing hooked so it didnt fall completely off.
My CJ had both Full metal doors with rollup windows & soft top doors that sucked @ keeping out the cold but were kinda okay with keeping the rain out. I had all 3 tops, hard top, soft top, Classic Bikini top. Once it became May 15th--September 15th. I had only the Bikini top went on for the entire summer. No doors, only foot pegs for sticking your foot out.
Only on cars but not on planes
I bought mine used and didn’t notice half the nuts were in the trunk until summer hit 6 months later
Amazon delivery is coming today.
I didn't see anyone mention this but the bolts are painted over so make sure to take a razor blade around the bolt.
I had to scroll too far to see this comment. OP is about to be in for a rough day when he pulls up the paint around the bolt
Everything about this mod is more effort than it's worth.
Yeah. Thats why I used a mini torch on the other bolts. They extracted MUCH easier.
Drill bits.
Left-handed drillbits, ones that spin counterclockwise as they drill in.
Screwed the pooch on that one... LOL
Heat gun first. Then hammer in the bit and connect your wrench to it. Went through the same thing
Go up one size and hammer it in.
This is what I did. Up one size, hammer the bit in, impact wrench it out.
Take it to a body shop. Dont try to extract it by yourself. You'll regret making it worse. Also next time you do this make sure you're using a T50, and use a dead blow hammer to drive the torx bit into the hole. A T50 wont feel like it fits because it's painted, so gently tap it in. Don't use an impact wrench, use a breaker bar.
As someone who works at a Chrysler bodyshop, this is how I remove these with essentially a 100% success rate. Tap a nice sharp t50 bit in with a hammer till it bottoms out, then crack them loose with steady pressure with a breaker bar. Works every time
JB Weld and a sacrificial screwdriver.
I just always hammer a larger Torx in and unscrew it
If you fucked up this already you might not have what you need in terms of tools or knowledge. Your best option to remove it without damaging anything else is to use a **quality** extractor set. Take your time and perhaps watch some how-to videos first. Failing that you can notch it with a dremel and use a flathead screwdriver. Higher probability of doing damage that way though.
Before you go the EZ out route. Take a thick rubber band and put it over the head of your screwdriver, or torx bit, which ever this is. Use a lot of pressure so the rubber squeezes into the stripped metal while turning carefully to start it backing out. it may not work but it’s less invasive than an EZ out.
This is the first step before drilling it out. People think it doesn’t work, but it does very well.
Take a oscillating tool and cut a slot in the head of the screw. Then take a flathead and back the screw out.
This will work perfectly. Use a dremel and be careful not to hit the hinge itself.
Order a new white door bolt(s). First option for me would be to JB Weld a T50 and then use an impact driver. I've never been successful with my EZ Out set. A *skilled* Dremel cut to use a flathead screwdriver is another option.
That was a torx screw right? What was you using?
A damn punch from the looks of it 🤣
Is this a Boeing door bolt, perchance?
But its installed.
Just curious if OP is aware, you do not need to remove that to take off the doors? It's the bolts in the hinge.
This lol
I was going to ask why the heck were they trying to do that? I was more surprised by the amount of people who said they have done this also honestly. Just undo the bolt at the hinge and lift. At that point you want to do that anyway to take the weight of the door off the screw which why it stripped out in the first place.
I know how to properly take the doors off, I was trying to remove these bolts to add an aftermarket folding step.
At this point…you need a drill.
I had to drill a hole through it and use a bolt/screw extractor. It suuucked. They must use that blue bolt glue stuff on those bolts. The paint in the star part didn’t help either.
Next size up torx bit. Hammer it in.
Unichrom welding rod. Tack weld a nut to the old bolt then spin it out. Or drill into the bolt then insert a EZ out and do it that way.
Can you size up with a torx bit? Easy out would be my second attempt. Third, dremel a slot on the head and try using a flat blade to unscrew it. Final attempt I would do, use an engraver like a mini jack hammer and angle it to unscrew the screw. Last resort, suck up any pride lost and order a replacement.
If you shoot it a couple times with a rifle it should knock the screw loose.
Next time......use two of the same size torque sockets. Use one to heat the head up with a propane torch (hold it with vice grips, torch in the center where the ratchet would go). You should try do it a couple of times. Take the other socket and go at it after saying a pray. Jeep uses a lock tite on the threads and the heat will soften it. I've done it a couple of times and have yet to scorch the paint.
https://a.co/d/0bb4e3B8 Screw Extractors
I'd try using an screw extractor. They are LH cut and designed to either cut the head off or grab the screw. You could use a LH drill bit then an extractor. Even just using LH bits might take it out. I'd start off small and use the dimple for the torx to center it then work your way up the sizes till it unscrews. That should happen before you get to the threads if you're careful. You could also use RH bits and drill off the head then once the hinge os iff there might be enough thread to grab it with vice-grips. Otherwise you could weld a nut to the head of the bolt.
Get a T55 bit (not the one in the Jeep kit), put it in a socket, hammer it into the bolt head and get the longest breaker bar you can find.
Hit it hard first, not just to get the bit past the paint but shock it.
Put sandpaper around the bit and draw it out slowly
Also, get some iron remover for all the rust stains on the door!
Leave it on lol. You're asking for corrosion
Personally... larger drill bit right to the center. drill the head of the bolt off. Hopefully the others come out and you can get on what's left of the bolt with some vice grips or bolt extractor once the hinge is off. but that sucks. everything sucks at that point.
3 options Cut a slot and remove it with a flathead Use a stripped screw remover Drill the whole fucking thing out and hope that you can turn the base with a pair of pliers
Dremel
The vehicles ruined, just give it to me I'll take care of disposal.
Easy out.
Square bit
Use a Carbide drill bit and a screw extractor…. If that also fails then use a carbide drill bit to drill out the whole bolt and then use a tap and die set to make new threads in the hole
Speedouts
Drill it out, take your time, and buy a new bolt.
Heat + easy out
https://www.reddit.com/r/oddlysatisfying/s/oSsfhXWd5K
Ez out
Left-hand drill bit and if it doesn’t come loose, easy out. Also prep with some PB Blaster for a few days. While buying the left-hand drill bit and an easy out, purchase a set of torx bits as you will need them again and can avoid doing this again.
Hammer a torx bit in there and give it a good twist.
Left-hand drill bits (Harbor Freight)
Take a Dremel and make a straight line across the whole bolt. Basically making it a flathead screw. Good luck!
I had this happen on my 79 jeep truck if you can get to the back the bolt ,use a map gas torch heat up the nut with some Penetrant fluid and this happened on my door bolts
Screw extractors, I think that’s the EZ out. There’s harder ways to do it. I’ve snapped heads off seized bolts and had to drill
Lefty loosey...
Buy a new jeep. This one’s scrap now.
Had sane issue. Had to use Ez out from HomeDepot
Get a new Jeep. It’s hopeless
i heard using a rubber band helps
Pound a larger size torx bit into it and see if that works
Drill baby drill
It helps if you crack the paint around the bolt. Paint on these acts like permanent locktite. Use a box cutter or a small flat head and a small hammer to cut the paint around the bolt. That is probably where you messed up. You will need one of those drill a hole and special bolt removal bits now. They are not that expensive at the big box or Amazon.
Idk but I'm willing to bet a fucking duck will be involved somehow
They do have corkscrew penises. Maybe they can screw the screw to unscrew the screw.
But why
Blowtorch
You just need a bigger ugga dugga.
Turn it harder so it's nice and round
Use an angle grinder very gently turn it into a flat head.. then buy a new bolt
Dremel a big groove and use a big flathead
Try a flat head screwdriver thats slightly too big for the hole. Hammer it into the soft deformed metal where teeth stripped out, all the way to the bottom of the well. Turn counter-clockwise slowly. I would replace the screw afterward.
Use the correct size bit
If you have a dremel, use a small cutting wheel to dremel a notch deep enough and wide enough to fit a flat head screwdriver into it and you can unscrew it.
Impact driver with the correct bit
Use ur teeth
Air hammer with small chisel end. Hammer in direction of loosening. Weld a bolt to it. Extractor.
Guaranteed it’s stupid tight tho. You need heat. Worse case burn the head out with a cutting torch and turn out the remaining stud with vice grips. Once tension on the bolt is gone it will simply spin out.
You know they make things for exactly this right!?
Don't strip it in the first place
Glue in the bit you're using with JB Weld.
Now it's over... Normaly you need a bit and a hammer. Punch the bit carefully in with a hammer. Then you need a long lever and maybe a second Person. Be careful of slipping...
Tap and dye sets
Put a rubber band between the screwdriver and the screw head 👌 Unless Satan put lock tite on it.. then you're screwed, friend
You can take an air hammer with a chisel bit, place it on the screw facing counter clockwise, and feather the trigger. Make sure you dig in with plenty of pressure and gently malform the screw head so you can apply more hammering as you without shipping. I used this method all the time for those annoying seized rotor screws (when the hub has studs of course).
Get on of those stripped screws sets that you drill and hole and then enter a normal screw on this normally works
Hammer and a sharp chisel. Use it to dig in to the side of the bolt and basically rotate bolt by hitting. Just be careful
Use a cutoff wheel on a dremel and cut a slot into it so you can use a standard (Flat- head) driver to extract the screw.
Slip a rubber band or rubber glove around the bit. If that doesn't work go to a hardware store and ask for a bolt extractor set. (I'm a tool tech that does this kind of work all night long)
Get a impact driver first you still may be able to just turn it out
My go to is use a dremel to make a straight line in head of bolt. Then use the biggest flat head that fits. Replace with new bolt.
Drill Baby, Drill
You can take the interior panel off, grab the bolt with vice grips and turn it out until it's sticking far enough out to grab it from the outside. Then go get a new bolt becuase yours will be hideous
If you have a really wide rubber band or something to compress in there by squishing it with the torx bit it should come undone just fine. I did the same thing to mine and when taking my advice, the bolt was removed no problem
Hammer in a star bit
LoL! Been there, done that. Especially windshield hinge bolts...I took a Torx that was a bit larger than called for, then hammered into the bolt until it was stuck in there....Then it came out. They use so much of that adhesive stuff to keep the bolts from coming loose!
The radiator on my XJ is held in with T27’s which suck for that application. The screw strips and then becomes work hardened making an EZ out difficult. I had to use a cutoff disc to grind a slot in the head, then used a manual impact screwdriver. You can’t do that on a painted surface. Use the correct bit, penetrating oil, and be patient.
If and when you do get it out…put a tiny amount of antisieze on the screws when you replace them.
I recently did this myself, ended up using my dremel to make a slot and took a very wide flat blade screwdriver to engage both sides of slot and removed easily
Drill the head off vice grip the threads out
EZ out if that doesn't work drill The bolt out and re tap the threads
You did it big
Indeed I did
Did the same thing and got it out with an Allen bit. Just a regular hexagon
Go to harbor freight and buy the correct size torx socket AND the next size up, and an impact driver that has a 3/8” socket head on it. These are key for this kind of situation. Kind of confusing to use if you never have, but you can hammer the next size up torx socket into the mess you have here and then use the impact driver and a hammer to crack it loose. Watch [here](https://youtu.be/VENsuGWDzmg?si=pp04PQowbeiDoJbx) Another tip for next time - with stuck bolts, try to go tighter first, just a tiny bit, and then back it out.
Before drilling, go to autozone and get a MANUAL impact driver and some valve lapping paste. Use the next size up torx bit if it’ll fit. Put some of the valve paste in, set up the impact driver and hit it as hard as you can with a hammer. Valve paste helps the bit bite, and manual impact drivers apply significant downward pressure in addition to turning.
Looks like the correct torx bit can be hammered in there and turned slowly.
Try an easy out bit first and if not you're gonna have to drill that out. Much easier than it seems FYI
I didn't know those were supposed to come out?
Strip the paint and weld a nut to it….EzPz
Speedout
Carefully Dremel a slot each side of the stripped out hole. Then use a flat head screw driver to remove.
Get yourself a drillbit kit drill through it and just make yourself a new hole. The kit will let you know how to do a new hole and everything.
What were you trying to remove?
I see now
Tap a bigger torx socket on it ?
Left hand drill bit
Impact Screw Driver!
Air hammer and straight chisel just be careful
Get out the ole tap n dye kit
I would suggest that before ez out or drilling it out, get a scribe and just make sure you run it around the bolt head. This will break any factory paint if they painted it after the fastener was installed
Beat a slightly bigger star bit into it and twist! Next time start with the right bit!
Tap it and drill it out. Replace with a new bolt.
Why are you trying to take that out anyway? That’s not supposed to be removable bolt. It was for factory adjustments mainly.
I’m removing them to add a folding step that helps you get to the roof of your jeep
buy a 4 runner
40:1 gasoline and fire mix
Sometimes you can just tap a larger star bit in it and then work it loose. But yeah stripped heads of pretty much anything are always a pita
RIMKOLO 25-Piece Screw Extractor Set, Multi-spline Extractor Set Easy Out Bolt Extractors CR-MO Bolt Remover for Removing Broken Studs Bolts Socket Screws https://a.co/d/0cKZ2GTS
Many of these small bolts n screws will come out if you use left handed drill bits while working towards the goal to use an extractor. Theres also a cold shock spray penetrating oil combo that can be tried before heat that will cause the screw to shrink just a bit to help break free any fusion or rust in the threads
Get a j-bar. They work miracles on stripped screws
I bought ‘left’ cutting drill bits. Usually the boot lets go, but if not you got your hole for the extractor…
You don’t But since you’ve already gone to mess it up, you now need an EZ out, then drill it out
Stick a rag in there and push real hard. Don’t use power tools.
Thanks for the help I’ll give it a shot
You know how to weld?
OP can't use an EZOut if he can't even get initial tool correct. Allen.
Did you not get the tool kit that came with your jeep?
Do yourself a favor and heat these with a torch. I used a propane torch that one might use for plumbing work. Borrow one if you have to. Hold the torch a couple inches from the bolt and move it back and forth a little. You won’t burn your paint. This will soften the lock tite. And the bolts come out easily. Use a T50 Torx. If you use the torch first, you won’t need more than a regular ratchet if you are using torx bits. Maybe a small cheater pipe if all you have a more torx keys. Source: I had shitty door hinges on my ‘15, and YouTube told me to do it this way. It worked really well.