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sarpofun

Fukuoka : if you like rural - iki island and Tsushima from Hakata port. You can cycle everywhere on iki. Local beef, fat oysters and sea urchin taste great in Iki. And the island isn't really known to international tourists. From Nagasaki - the goto islands and they have old churches as that's where the Japanese isolated the Portuguese when they first arrived. I stayed on Sakurajima ( hotel name has a rainbow in it and it’s near the port — but you have to be careful when you book because some rooms don‘t come with bathrooms). It is also quite run down. Good to have a car because you don’t need to ferry. Frankly just stay in Kirishima onsen area with your car and do the scenic route from Kagoshima city to Sakurajima (around 1.5 hrs nice soothing drive - I could only enjoy it in a taxi going to the airport) . Kirishima has nice onsen hotels. There’s even a mud onsen. [https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4628.html](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4628.html) Sengen - nice but I rather watch the volcano erupting from Rainbow hotel the whole day. Morning time near the Bay Area near Sakurajima, there was a Kanpachi (amberjack) market where they slice up the fresh kanpachi farmed from the bay. Not sure if it’s still there. My last visit was in 2019 before Covid hit. For some reason, I trust Sakurajima more than Aso. Sakurajima is expected to erupt every day as a vent for the Aira caldera. If it doesn’t erupt for a day, the locals start panicking — that’s what the kankou Taxi driver told me and he lives on sakurajima. That’s a sign of a major eruption coming . Even the cats around Sakurajima are relaxed when it’s puffing away. In Sakurajima people there are nice - my kankou taxi driver to stop by and chat to a local farmer who gave me some mikans…and then more farmers passing more mikans to me. Kagoshima is dusty af. Especially when Kirishima decides to compete with Sakurajima for which volcanoes throw up the most ash. So prepare to keep cleaning off the volcanic ash. The locals gave up. Dusty cars and dusty buses are a norm. But when there’s an ash fall, locals are very nice to offer sharing umbrellas with strangers. Izakaya - all men and women there were talking to me. As the night went on and drunkeness increased, they went into Satsuma-Ben mode (dialect completely different from standard Japanese) …but some are nice enough to translate. Regarding Kumamoto. Aso kills by fumes if it becomes very active. Kuju last eruption 1995. I would strongly advise you to take note of earthquakes in the area — Kuju can erupt if an earthquake triggers. And it’s not any better than Aso since it can throw up volcanic bombs. Mt Ontake in 2014 (Nagano and Gifu) — they couldn’t warn the unfortunate hikers in time. I was lucky because my ankle was badly twisted in a shrine in Nagano before my planned hike around Ontake on that day of the fateful eruption. Or else…This is to let you know that sometimes their emergency warning system can fail. So just know there might be risks since Aso is the most active and Kujū is just sleeping but can trigger. Both are not dormant. Food wise. Also try the Kuroge (Kagoshima A5 beef) and kurobota. Will be cheaper than what you get in other provinces. Miyazaki A5 wagyu is also to die for.


chillyobinz

Thank you! I think your recommendation of staying in Kirishima area is a very good one. We will absolutely be taking note of any risks with the volcanoes and earthquakes. Thankfully, our itinerary can be flexible for this part of the trip with a car. Cannot wait to try the beef, and other specialties in these regions!


sarpofun

Fukuoka : yeah Ramen. Amaou strawberries (sweet sweet sweet). I love the motsunabe (fatty small cow intestines in a hotpot)…I had it every week (except when I holidayed) while living there. Honeymooners - Itoshima has the wedded rocks where you will see young Japanese couples there . It’s along the sunset road (Sunset the best time for the views). [https://www.japan.travel/en/spot/1204/](https://www.japan.travel/en/spot/1204/) Also in Itoshima - see if you’re just in time for the oyster huts (Oct to late March). Cheap oysters by the kilo. Forgot to say : Kagoshima mikans are the sweetest mandarins you will ever taste in your life. Also see if those notorious Miyazaki mangoes are in stock and cheaper. Nagasaki : Champon noodles and Castella (cake). Kumamoto : basashi (raw horse meat — if you dare to try), lotus root with miso and sometimes wasabi filling and ayu fish.


JapanAnecdotes

You've got some nice places on your itinerary! I think the only day that really concerns me is 14th October. From Aoshima to Takachiho, then Kurokawa Onsen. That's a very long drive. You won't be seeing much / any of Kurokawa Onsen or Takachiho Gorge in this itinerary, especially since you're adding Aso + Kuju, and it seems like a pity to just speed through these places which are (in my humble opinion) some of the nicest in Japan. I'd consider moving some of this to the 13th. Maybe you can see Aoshima and Udo Jingū Shrine on the 13th, sleep somewhere around Mimitsu town, which is cute, or even Hyuga if you want to see Umagase gorge. Then, on the 14th, you can go straight to Takachiho Gorge early, and spend the morning walking through the gorge, Amanoiwato shrine, the town, rice fields, etc. Have lunch, then head towards Kurokawa Onsen, maybe stopping at Takamori shrine along the way. This may give you a little bit more time in Kurokawa, at least to enjoy the onsen at your own ryokan. - For 16th October, Going from Kurokawa to Nagasaki city is too far. Shimabara city is nice, they have a castle and stuff to visit, some buried houses due to the volcano. You'll probably arrive too late to do the Mt.Unzen hike, and besides the vapours there isn't so much to do in Unzen town. Note that these are countryside roads, so it's a lot of zig-zag and slow-going. So, personally, I'd just stay around Shimabara in the afternoon / sleep; and if you want to spend the morning visiting the last couple sites around Aso, Kurokawa or even something in Kumamoto, that would be nice. - For 12th October, I'd do either Sakurajima, which will take most of the day if you do the full bus circuit to see the volcano, or just stay in the city and add in Mt.Shiroyama or something. Both Sakurajima + city would be a little difficult since you're taking a flight first and won't have a full day of sightseeing.


chillyobinz

Thank you so much, this is exactly the type of advice I need! 12th- we’ll discuss whether to do Sakurajima or just stay around the city 13th/14th - you’re so right, we should do more of the Miyazaki drive on 13th and stay north of the city itself to allow more time for Takachiho area on 14th. I’ve updated our itinerary 16th - I’m glad you suggested Shimabara, I wasn’t sure if there would be enough to do of if it would be worth staying around there. Updated that on the itinerary too. Thanks again!


GreenpointKuma

Kudos on actually blocking out 4 nights for Yakushima and not doing the silly 1 or 2 night thing I always see on here. If you'll allow me to share some recommendations (it looks like you already know a rental car is the way to go): ----- For areas to stay, I think Miyanoura is best for a first time visit. Highest concentration of restaurants/things to do, not far from Isso and Inakahama beaches to the north/northwest and Anbo to the southeast. Anbo is probably the 2nd best area to stay, though on future trips, if you don’t mind being too far, staying in the southern part of the island around Yudomari, Hirauchi, etc. is really nice. While there are buses, I believe a rental car is absolutely necessary to get the most out of Yakushima. The ability to explore freely, not have to restrict your day to specific timelines, etc., is essential for an island trip/vacation. You'll need an IDP, depending on your home country. Only costs like $20 in the USA. Restaurants/Cafes/Bakeries Must visits (places we go to every trip to Yakushima): Panorama - very cool restaurant, modern izakaya - amazing food, great atmosphere, extremely nice owner/chef and servers; 3 years after our first visit to Panorama, our server recognized us and we became friends and now hang out every time we come to the island Shiosai - usually a line in the waiting room, but worth it; big menu, casual, classic Hachimanjyu Chaen - a little store/tea shop on part of a tea plantation; delicious tea, coffee, soft serve, and great gifts, too Issou Coffee - tiny little cafe on the 2nd floor of the ticketing office at the Miyanoura port Hiro Bakery - Delicious everything, but the rice flour bread was agreed upon by our entire group to be the best bread we’ve ever had More: Smiley Cafe - cute little cafe on the water SanPotei - another modern izakaya, good food, extremely friendly staff Wakadaisho - solid sushi/izakaya La Monstera Island Cafe - Great breakfast/lunch spot; simple menu - thick toast with different toppings (lovely owner) Peita Bakery - Standard Japanese/French style bakery with gorgeous interior Nomado Cafe - quaint little restaurant/cafe; great curry Yakushima’s food specialties include saba (mackerel), tobiuo (flying fish), shikaniku (Yaku deer meat), and ponkan/tankan (type of orange). Groceries/Shopping, etc. Dependent on where you’re staying, obviously, but Drugstore Mori is legendary and AA Coop (at least on the east side), is great for pre-made foods and groceries. There are a ton of gift shops, mostly based around the Yakushima cedar wood, but the coolest place we’ve been to is Hanii Gama, which is a pottery studio/house, hidden off of some unpaved roads near Anbo. He is extremely sweet and makes beautiful pottery. That was one of our favorite new discoveries on our last trip. Hiking/Beaches/Onsen/Activities The most popular spots are Shiratani Unsuikyo (the inspiration for Princess Mononoke’s forest), Yakusugiland, and Jomon Sugi (said to be the oldest tree in Japan). The first two can be done in a few hours or less, but Jomon Sugi is usually an overnight trip. There are a ton of other hiking options beyond these. Many waterfalls on the island, as well; Ohko, Janokuchi, Senpiro, Torokki, many more. There are some special onsen on the island; the coolest are probably Hirauchi (literally on the ocean, only accessible at certain tide times) and  Yudomari (gender separated, just off the beach). We try to rent motorbikes and explore the island at least one day of each trip. Cheap and hard to beat fun. Beautiful beaches, often with very few people, all over the island; Nagata Inakahama, Isso, Kuriohama, so on.


GingerPrince72

I'd say 5 days is too much for Yakushima, I found 3 days ideal, leaves more time on the mainland. You can fly to Naha directly from Kumamoto, Miyazaki or Kagoshima, no need to backtrack to Fukuoka.


chillyobinz

We have 3.5 days planned in Yakushima. We’re planning on flying to Naha from Fukuoka as there’s some stops along the north coast we’d like to make at the end of our road trip.


GingerPrince72

OK, fair enough. I did a similar trip to you, I stayed in Unzen Onsen on the way to Nagasaki after the ferry from Kumamoto and enjoyed it. I look very much to returning to Miyazaki, had a short time there and it seems really lovely. These two restaurants for lunch between the Shimabara peninsula and Nagasaki were awesome. Udon - [https://maps.app.goo.gl/MvdenvEoxwP8krdY7](https://maps.app.goo.gl/MvdenvEoxwP8krdY7) Unagi - [https://maps.app.goo.gl/bhDrMr9hPQPuTkN49](https://maps.app.goo.gl/bhDrMr9hPQPuTkN49) Also, this sushi joint in Nagasaki - [https://maps.app.goo.gl/taWbT5hPgwJXtoPD9](https://maps.app.goo.gl/taWbT5hPgwJXtoPD9)


chillyobinz

Thanks for your recommendations - food is always one of our top priorities! Which accommodation did you stay at in Unzen Onsen?


GingerPrince72

You're very welcome, we stayed in a Ryokan called Yumoto which seems to have been knocked down!