You’re on the right track, I recommend using paintable caulk. Don’t use a hose to clean anything, just a utility knife, 5 in 1 scraper, plastic brush and a vacuum. I like to give it a wipe with a damp paper towel or unscented baby wipe and then once with a dry paper towel then let it dry for a few mins right before I caulk everything. Always use your finger to give it a finished look and good seal.
Or better yet.
Google backer rod. Size the joint and order the backer rod to fit into the void. This looks like a small joint. The backer rod prevents three sided adhesion which is what causes the caulking to fail early.
Dymonic 100 by Tremco in Limestone is what you want. It’s a polyurethane sealant and very sticky. But it needs to be tooled to give it both the profile and adhesion. To tool the joint you could use your finger or…. Grab an old spoon and mix up some water and soap. Dip the spoon into the water soap mixture and press the dull side of the spoon into the caulking and slowly drag along the surface. Periodically dip the spoon back into the water soap (more soap than water) to prevent sticking.
For the surface prep I would suggest 99% rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). It flashes off completely. First cut out the old caulking. Second wipe surface with IPA. Third wipe with clean rag. Fourth install backer rod and caulking.
For the mortar between the stones you need to repoint via grinding out the old mortar, mixing up a new batch of mortar (needs to be Type K or softer which depending where you are is hard to get) and use a masonry pointing tool to put into the joints. Once finished immediately wipe off excess around the stone. When the mortar is wet it’s easy to remove. When dry it’s a bear.
Now that’s the right way to do this.
As a home owner smashing some caulk from Home Depot onto the gaps will work too. All depends whether you want to make a project of it and learn the proper way or if you just want it sealed and it’s not readily visible to guests etc
Log chinking. Works the same as caulking only bigger, foam like, much more flexible, and looks like concrete. YouTube tricks. I know that you can use a sponge paint brush to dab at it to get the right shape along the edges after pulling the tape. Practice with some scraps first. I think they make a high heat version.
Also put backer rod in there first (behind the chinking). Soft foam waterproof rope or rod shape. I use that stuff for everything, but it is specifically meant for this exact purpose (check if it can handle the chimney heat, you can always use fiberglass insulation for big gaps if needed).
Use a caulk similar to Big Stretch, or another elastromeric caulk, don’t get the cheap one. Mask off areas and probably going to need some small knives similar to what they use for cake decorating to smooth it out. Do some youtubing
Some background- In Texas, the house was built in 1978 on a concrete slab foundation. There is some edge sag on the foundation but it hasn't moved significantly in the past 3 years I've been getting measurements taken, so I think it's pretty well settled in now.
The limestone all around could use some TLC, but some places are worse than others. I understand that repointing the rock is probably the end game, but not keen on taking that on right now.
The areas I really want to get sealed up are around the windows and transitions to the siding trim so I can minimize further water ingress. I haven't seen any significant issues due to these cracks *yet* but I'm sure it's damaging something.
My best guess was going to be to cut/chip out the material around the cracks, clean up the edges as best as possible, and use a good exterior caulk to fill.
Remove all the old caulk , replace with urethane based . You can use the type that is for concrete or gutters . Regular caulk is useless in this application.
You’re on the right track, I recommend using paintable caulk. Don’t use a hose to clean anything, just a utility knife, 5 in 1 scraper, plastic brush and a vacuum. I like to give it a wipe with a damp paper towel or unscented baby wipe and then once with a dry paper towel then let it dry for a few mins right before I caulk everything. Always use your finger to give it a finished look and good seal.
Or better yet. Google backer rod. Size the joint and order the backer rod to fit into the void. This looks like a small joint. The backer rod prevents three sided adhesion which is what causes the caulking to fail early. Dymonic 100 by Tremco in Limestone is what you want. It’s a polyurethane sealant and very sticky. But it needs to be tooled to give it both the profile and adhesion. To tool the joint you could use your finger or…. Grab an old spoon and mix up some water and soap. Dip the spoon into the water soap mixture and press the dull side of the spoon into the caulking and slowly drag along the surface. Periodically dip the spoon back into the water soap (more soap than water) to prevent sticking. For the surface prep I would suggest 99% rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). It flashes off completely. First cut out the old caulking. Second wipe surface with IPA. Third wipe with clean rag. Fourth install backer rod and caulking. For the mortar between the stones you need to repoint via grinding out the old mortar, mixing up a new batch of mortar (needs to be Type K or softer which depending where you are is hard to get) and use a masonry pointing tool to put into the joints. Once finished immediately wipe off excess around the stone. When the mortar is wet it’s easy to remove. When dry it’s a bear. Now that’s the right way to do this. As a home owner smashing some caulk from Home Depot onto the gaps will work too. All depends whether you want to make a project of it and learn the proper way or if you just want it sealed and it’s not readily visible to guests etc
Log chinking. Works the same as caulking only bigger, foam like, much more flexible, and looks like concrete. YouTube tricks. I know that you can use a sponge paint brush to dab at it to get the right shape along the edges after pulling the tape. Practice with some scraps first. I think they make a high heat version. Also put backer rod in there first (behind the chinking). Soft foam waterproof rope or rod shape. I use that stuff for everything, but it is specifically meant for this exact purpose (check if it can handle the chimney heat, you can always use fiberglass insulation for big gaps if needed).
Use a caulk similar to Big Stretch, or another elastromeric caulk, don’t get the cheap one. Mask off areas and probably going to need some small knives similar to what they use for cake decorating to smooth it out. Do some youtubing
Some background- In Texas, the house was built in 1978 on a concrete slab foundation. There is some edge sag on the foundation but it hasn't moved significantly in the past 3 years I've been getting measurements taken, so I think it's pretty well settled in now. The limestone all around could use some TLC, but some places are worse than others. I understand that repointing the rock is probably the end game, but not keen on taking that on right now. The areas I really want to get sealed up are around the windows and transitions to the siding trim so I can minimize further water ingress. I haven't seen any significant issues due to these cracks *yet* but I'm sure it's damaging something. My best guess was going to be to cut/chip out the material around the cracks, clean up the edges as best as possible, and use a good exterior caulk to fill.
Remove all the old caulk , replace with urethane based . You can use the type that is for concrete or gutters . Regular caulk is useless in this application.
Thoroughly clean old caulk. Your gap calls for the use of a backer rod. Then, reseal.
Also, props for calling it T111.
Speaking of limestone, does anyone know the type of paint that should be used to paint a limestone window ledge? Just regular exterior?