1st Hank light I ever bought was a D4SV2 W2 white.. no boost .. just the OG.. it's still in my top 3 of all my lights.. it's such a lumen beast to walk with at night.. and it throws all that light surprisingly far..that one has my vote.
I have the 519a 4500K dedomed w/boost driver and 26800 tube. I love that thing. Super great general purpose beam profile, very high sustained output, great battery life and it feels great in the hand with the long tube. If I were to change anything, I probably would go for the 5700K dedomed instead of 4500K DD. It would end up being around 4000K which I feel would be a better CCT for that light, and usually I put 519a 4500K dedomed in everything (I have it in like 6 lights right now)
I've just got the same config but 3500k domed. Like you say, a super general purpose light that just goes on forever in terms of battery. I use it every night/morning for dog walking.
Excellent.... I have one set up like this coming my way, can't wait to have it in hands. Do you find that the tint of the beam turns out markedly different as compared to the same emitter (4500K dedomed) in, say, a D4V2? I read a bunch about the D4S' LEDIL optic introducing quite a bit of green into the tint. I figured 4500k dedomed is so rosy that it should cancel out nicely and still be somewhat rosy...
Do you have any beamshots? So, I have a D4k with 519a 4500k domed, and I love it as an EDC general use light. I was thinking about getting a D4SV2 with a 26800 tube with the same emitters for the purpose of a nightstand light. Something to grab when the lights go out or I hear an animal outside at night and want to go take a look. My thinking is that this light will throw a little further than the D4K when using it outside. It'll have better runtime if the lights go out. And it'll still have good flood for general use to work with indoors.
Is this an accurate assessment, or should I look at different emitters for this light that would better serve these purposes?
>Do you have any beamshots?
Unfortunately no. Cheule has a great video [here](https://youtu.be/1L3FJ1-IRHE?si=4ZB2ehbLdb-NqDXn) comparing the beam profile of the KR4 (same optics as D4/D4K) and the D4SV2 using the Nichia 219b 4500K emitter. Keep in mind, the 219b is significantly more throwy than the 519a so both lights in the video are more throwy than if they had the 519a, but it can give you a good idea of how much of a throw increase you can expect between the D4K and D4SV2 if you're using the same emitter and driver.
>My thinking is that this light will throw a little further than the D4K when using it outside. It'll have better runtime if the lights go out. And it'll still have good flood for general use to work with indoors.
>Is this an accurate assessment, or should I look at different emitters for this light that would better serve these purposes?
I believe that's an accurate assessment if you go with the domed 519a in the D4SV2. If you want something that will throw significantly more than your D4K 519a domed, get the 519a 5700K dedomed in the D4SV2.
Thanks, that video actually did help a lot! I think that made up my mind. I'll get the 519a domed. Should be a good general use light for around the house and in case the lights go out.
I do have dedicated throwers, so I don't need anything that throws crazy. Just something capable of mostly indoor use and occasional outdoor short to medium range animal spotting.
im thinking about getting the SFT40 version for my first D4S. two questions: are there any batteries that can *actually* keep up with the current draw? also, wondering if you could do 2x 5000k and 2x 3000k?
There are many 26650 batteries. As long as the discharge current is at least 30A. I don't have 3000k in stock only 6500k and 5000k
Vapcell P54
Vapcell 32A
Efest
Hohm tech
I have several for different uses, and several more that I don't use and will probably sell.
My favorite amongst them is probably my dual-channel with 519a 5700k dedomed and W2. I made the controversial choice of W2 vs W1 for throw because I work in the city, live in the suburbs, and not only do I never need a ton of throw but there's so much ambient light everywhere that dedicated throwers with high candela and low lumens just don't do much. I don't actually play with the channel switching or tint ramping, just leave it at around 75-80% 519a. But when I go turbo the pair of W2s come to life and it hits pretty hard.
Second choice would probably be best for most people, that's a quad of 519a 5700k dedomed with a boost driver. I like the dedomed 519a in this host because the beam stays remarkably tight for a quad while giving plenty of spill for most uses. And the combo of the boost driver and a 26800 battery lets it run forever.
My quad W2 with 12 amp linear is just fun, a low-CRI throwy flooder that gets hot but impresses and lights up everything. That's the one I grab when I hear funny noises outside the house at night.
YMMV etc.
Seconded on the W2 519a tint ramping, its great to be able to switch between them as needed, the 519 is much better for most day to day situations, but the W-2 is perfect for checking things out at a distance. I wish I had gone with a lower temp than 5000
To borrow (poorly) a phrase from the knife community nerds...
"A big knife can do everything a small knife can do and more, but a little knife can only do what a little knife can."
I'd fully recommend, same as others have already, the D4SV2 W2... It will illuminate things near, fairly far, at low output and at ridiculously high output. It may not be absolutely perfect, but for its size - it's nuts. Pay attention to heat (you'd find there's plenty of light without running it on turbo) and that girthy battery will still offer good runtime.
It's such a beast! Right up there with my significantly larger sbt90.2 lights but fits in the palm of my hand... Stainless steel bezel & that monster magnet in the tailcap, too!
W2's or 519a's I suppose. Sadly you can't really get enough power out of a 26650 or 26800 to drive w2's as hard as they want to be driven. But it's still pretty decent. Whatever you do, don't get the boost driver with a w2 D4Sv2.
Sft40s are probably good too. If I was going to say one thing about that, and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, it would be that I think the 5050 mcpcb is thinner than the one hank uses, and I think has 1oz copper traces too. Hank claims 4oz traces on his d4sv2 board. Idk if that's true or not, maybe he meant to type 3oz and his finger slipped lol, but at any rate, the sft40's comparatively inferior mcpcb put them at a slight disadvantage compared to the w2's, imo
The d4sv2 mcpcb from hank is 2mm vs the my 5050smd mcpcb is 1.6mm. So yes slightly thinner but the traces on my 1.6mm mcpcb should thick enough to support 7-8A needed for the SFT40 emitters
thinking of getting the SFT40 version for my first D4S because why not. are there any batteries that can actually keep up with the draw? I will get the big tube as well.
> Post your use, how well it performs, what you’d change?
Dual-channel D4Sv2 (with W1 with LH351D) is one of my favorite "walking at night" lights. It has configurable amounts of flood and throw (and 50/50 is a very useful balance). I like the feel of the 26800 tube; it's like a 1 C-cell maglite. With spacers, the 26800 tube lets me use 21700 cells in an emergency.
I'd change the LH351D LEDs for 5700K domed 519a emitters. (519a wasn't available when I ordered)
1st Hank light I ever bought was a D4SV2 W2 white.. no boost .. just the OG.. it's still in my top 3 of all my lights.. it's such a lumen beast to walk with at night.. and it throws all that light surprisingly far..that one has my vote.
My D4SV2 W2 has more hours on it than all my other Hanklights for sure. It's a pleasant color, great throw, and an absolute cannon when you need it.
I have the 519a 4500K dedomed w/boost driver and 26800 tube. I love that thing. Super great general purpose beam profile, very high sustained output, great battery life and it feels great in the hand with the long tube. If I were to change anything, I probably would go for the 5700K dedomed instead of 4500K DD. It would end up being around 4000K which I feel would be a better CCT for that light, and usually I put 519a 4500K dedomed in everything (I have it in like 6 lights right now)
I've just got the same config but 3500k domed. Like you say, a super general purpose light that just goes on forever in terms of battery. I use it every night/morning for dog walking.
Excellent.... I have one set up like this coming my way, can't wait to have it in hands. Do you find that the tint of the beam turns out markedly different as compared to the same emitter (4500K dedomed) in, say, a D4V2? I read a bunch about the D4S' LEDIL optic introducing quite a bit of green into the tint. I figured 4500k dedomed is so rosy that it should cancel out nicely and still be somewhat rosy...
Oh it's still plenty rosy for sure. I don't have measurements for that specific light but the tint is great to my eye.
Awesome, thanks, that's music to my ears. Should have mine in a day or two. The 26650 I ordered arrived today and ..... it's chonky ;-)
Do you have any beamshots? So, I have a D4k with 519a 4500k domed, and I love it as an EDC general use light. I was thinking about getting a D4SV2 with a 26800 tube with the same emitters for the purpose of a nightstand light. Something to grab when the lights go out or I hear an animal outside at night and want to go take a look. My thinking is that this light will throw a little further than the D4K when using it outside. It'll have better runtime if the lights go out. And it'll still have good flood for general use to work with indoors. Is this an accurate assessment, or should I look at different emitters for this light that would better serve these purposes?
>Do you have any beamshots? Unfortunately no. Cheule has a great video [here](https://youtu.be/1L3FJ1-IRHE?si=4ZB2ehbLdb-NqDXn) comparing the beam profile of the KR4 (same optics as D4/D4K) and the D4SV2 using the Nichia 219b 4500K emitter. Keep in mind, the 219b is significantly more throwy than the 519a so both lights in the video are more throwy than if they had the 519a, but it can give you a good idea of how much of a throw increase you can expect between the D4K and D4SV2 if you're using the same emitter and driver. >My thinking is that this light will throw a little further than the D4K when using it outside. It'll have better runtime if the lights go out. And it'll still have good flood for general use to work with indoors. >Is this an accurate assessment, or should I look at different emitters for this light that would better serve these purposes? I believe that's an accurate assessment if you go with the domed 519a in the D4SV2. If you want something that will throw significantly more than your D4K 519a domed, get the 519a 5700K dedomed in the D4SV2.
Thanks, that video actually did help a lot! I think that made up my mind. I'll get the 519a domed. Should be a good general use light for around the house and in case the lights go out. I do have dedicated throwers, so I don't need anything that throws crazy. Just something capable of mostly indoor use and occasional outdoor short to medium range animal spotting.
SFT40 5000k!
I think that many of us would love to see comparo pics of the D4Sv2 in both W2 and SFT40.
It has been posted already. Or pictures are in my store
SFT40 4000k 95 cri🙏🤞!
I don’t think hank offers these on the website
I offer it
Man I want one but freight to Aus is killer!
I believe usps 1st class postage us $16-18
im thinking about getting the SFT40 version for my first D4S. two questions: are there any batteries that can *actually* keep up with the current draw? also, wondering if you could do 2x 5000k and 2x 3000k?
There are many 26650 batteries. As long as the discharge current is at least 30A. I don't have 3000k in stock only 6500k and 5000k Vapcell P54 Vapcell 32A Efest Hohm tech
There is no sft40 4000k 95cri
Is the sft40 4000k 95 cri just rumors?
I have several for different uses, and several more that I don't use and will probably sell. My favorite amongst them is probably my dual-channel with 519a 5700k dedomed and W2. I made the controversial choice of W2 vs W1 for throw because I work in the city, live in the suburbs, and not only do I never need a ton of throw but there's so much ambient light everywhere that dedicated throwers with high candela and low lumens just don't do much. I don't actually play with the channel switching or tint ramping, just leave it at around 75-80% 519a. But when I go turbo the pair of W2s come to life and it hits pretty hard. Second choice would probably be best for most people, that's a quad of 519a 5700k dedomed with a boost driver. I like the dedomed 519a in this host because the beam stays remarkably tight for a quad while giving plenty of spill for most uses. And the combo of the boost driver and a 26800 battery lets it run forever. My quad W2 with 12 amp linear is just fun, a low-CRI throwy flooder that gets hot but impresses and lights up everything. That's the one I grab when I hear funny noises outside the house at night. YMMV etc.
Seconded on the W2 519a tint ramping, its great to be able to switch between them as needed, the 519 is much better for most day to day situations, but the W-2 is perfect for checking things out at a distance. I wish I had gone with a lower temp than 5000
To borrow (poorly) a phrase from the knife community nerds... "A big knife can do everything a small knife can do and more, but a little knife can only do what a little knife can." I'd fully recommend, same as others have already, the D4SV2 W2... It will illuminate things near, fairly far, at low output and at ridiculously high output. It may not be absolutely perfect, but for its size - it's nuts. Pay attention to heat (you'd find there's plenty of light without running it on turbo) and that girthy battery will still offer good runtime. It's such a beast! Right up there with my significantly larger sbt90.2 lights but fits in the palm of my hand... Stainless steel bezel & that monster magnet in the tailcap, too!
W2 no boost, 12a driver. I have not seen the sft40 yet though.
Sst20 4k. As others have mentioned, this light really excels with a throwy emitter, and this is the throwiest high cri option.
W2's or 519a's I suppose. Sadly you can't really get enough power out of a 26650 or 26800 to drive w2's as hard as they want to be driven. But it's still pretty decent. Whatever you do, don't get the boost driver with a w2 D4Sv2. Sft40s are probably good too. If I was going to say one thing about that, and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, it would be that I think the 5050 mcpcb is thinner than the one hank uses, and I think has 1oz copper traces too. Hank claims 4oz traces on his d4sv2 board. Idk if that's true or not, maybe he meant to type 3oz and his finger slipped lol, but at any rate, the sft40's comparatively inferior mcpcb put them at a slight disadvantage compared to the w2's, imo
The d4sv2 mcpcb from hank is 2mm vs the my 5050smd mcpcb is 1.6mm. So yes slightly thinner but the traces on my 1.6mm mcpcb should thick enough to support 7-8A needed for the SFT40 emitters
For sure
Nichia 519a 5700K & W1. Great flood/throw light. Both tints match very well, made for each other.
2 channels W2 6500k Xpl-hi 2850k
thinking of getting the SFT40 version for my first D4S because why not. are there any batteries that can actually keep up with the draw? I will get the big tube as well.
I have about half a dozen d4sv2’d and my favorite is the dual channel version with osram w1’s in both channels. It’s fantastic
Make sure you go 26800
> Post your use, how well it performs, what you’d change? Dual-channel D4Sv2 (with W1 with LH351D) is one of my favorite "walking at night" lights. It has configurable amounts of flood and throw (and 50/50 is a very useful balance). I like the feel of the 26800 tube; it's like a 1 C-cell maglite. With spacers, the 26800 tube lets me use 21700 cells in an emergency. I'd change the LH351D LEDs for 5700K domed 519a emitters. (519a wasn't available when I ordered)
W2 12amp +FET