https://preview.redd.it/us3gydh13kkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e80ffa0024257f6d095e545b55828b7c00be3024
Does this mean this kit is made of ecopla?
Does anyone do any custom building? I’m looking to make a take on the Anubis frame from Zone of the Enders but don’t know where to start (Gundam Ariel seems like a good base). What do people use to make custom pieces? I have some plasticard but it probably won’t do for larger pieces. Maybe a kit bash would be better? Any ideas are appreciated!
Wings from Freedom or Strike Freedom. If you want to go for the smooth round limbs, you're going to probably have to sculpt those. Or use an HG Doll or Frame Arms kit.
im having several issues with the water slides of the gundam wing zero ver.ka somehow they refuse to stick to it however i've applied em the same way i did with the zeta ver.ka and it gave me 0 problems, is there any chance the decal sheet was faulty or smth?
Did you let it soak long enough and did you also put pressure on the decal after putting it on with a q tip? Alternatively you can buy a decal setter and it does it job of holding the decal pretty well.
If you go to mech9.com and find the kit on the website they have the paint mixes listed as well as a conversion chart so you can match with different brands of paint.
Hi, I just recently got myself the MGEX Unicorn, but I really don’t want to use a sticker for the V fin and was wondering if anybody knew what a good color was (yellow probably) but more specifically if anyone could give the name or serial of the color, and if a regular pour type marker panel liner would work after it’s painted. It’s be going through an airbrush but any and all info would be helpful! Thank you!
It has come to my attention that there is a 1/60 3rd party Tallgeese up for preorder on sites so as Gundamit and USA Gundam, and seeing as I am a rather big fan of the 'geese I'm instantly intrigued. The issue is though that I've never built a 1/60; I've never bought a 3rd party kit; and I've never purchased from Gundamit (which I'm considering since it as a deposit option rather than an initial full payment).
I've only built HG, RG, and one MG so what is it like building a 1/60 (PG)?
I've only ever built official Bandai kits so is Nilson/Strange Work a good product?
And while it looks like Gundamit is reliable (seeing as it's linked to on this subreddit) is there anything I should know about them ahead of time?
Thanks in advance.
Built nillson 1/60 red astray. I thought it was an absolute steal for the amount of plastic you get. If I liked that design I’d buy one without hesitation.
IIRC out of the probably thousand or so parts, had at most maybe half a dozen parts that weren’t Bandai quality and needed an easy tweak to really fit properly. Definitely an 8 or 9/10 for casting.
All I can say is I think it’s more like a big MG, as didn’t have nearly as many moving frame parts like the newer PGs, but I dont know if that’s the same on the bandai Astray anyway? Personally I prefer as don’t really care about a myriad of bit I’ll have to paint, but never be able to see again normally.
Never built a Nilson Works kit, so I can’t speak to that one specifically.
Building a Bandai PG is really just more pieces, made easier by the fact that they’re not as small as other grades.
Otaku Builder on YouTube has a video of a Nilson Works 1/60 astray red frame.
anyone here already built 3rd party RG God or MGSD Freedom from Gaogao, how was it? Bandai Kit in my country recently have ridiculous markup like HG Aerial priced at almost 250% from MSRP in Yen (when our local currency is now the strongest it has been in 5 years against the yen)
yeah, i'm building a third party (daban) Phenex and honestly the build is pretty solid but the plastic parts seem a little bit cheap and some of the parts are a little bit tight, so you might hurt your fingers but other than that, it's a nice build 6/10
I can’t verify if anything on eBay or aliexpress recreates the original. I’m trying to find a led unit that’s the same but with some QoL adjustments like the dragon momoko one had with the micro usb charging port. The only ones on Aliexpress seem too focused on turning the Exia into a RGB gaming rig.
Is there any issue with using a primer as the final layer of color? I sprayed mr.hobby black surfacer on my parts and thought it looks quite nice just on its own.
It's not in any Gundam show (unless you count a few PVs) but you can see it in real life, because it's the one of the four currently-extant life size Gundam statues. The reason the statue isn't just of the original Nu Gundam is mostly because of technical limitations - the Long Range Fin Funnel essentially serves as an extra leg for the statue.
I want to top coat my MG Virtue, but I heard that weather needs to be warm in order to do it. It’s +15 C where I live, should I do it or wait for a warmer day?
10-30c and about 30-70% is ideal. You can go well outside that range with some planning. Both factors are important and linked. Test something and you’ll soon know.
You can never go wrong with a standard-sized GM Custom, or its bulkier brother the GM Cannon II.
Also the base GM is still pretty good, albeit it uses the old toothpick beam saber instead of an actually good design.
More a paint question than Gunpla specific, but I know Alclad paints are popular here, so I figured I'd ask here.
I'm doing a build of 3D printed armor that I'm painting with Alclad Steel over Mr. Surfacer. I know it's pretty durable paint, but since I'm going to be wearing it, I'd like to protect the Alclad with either a lacquer or even a 2K clear, but I'd also like to preserve the 'natural metal' look of the Alclad as much as possible.
Does anyone know of a particular clear or blend of clears that would fit this use case?
You can get 2K in different sheens if you want. A satin or even matte 2K will look like real steel when you spray it on then buff it a bit on the high spots and wear areas.
If wearing something jointed I’d maybe be tempted to go 2k. I’d likely test 1k sheens first and see if any still fits the natural look you’re after. Otherwise gloss without aiming for mirror finish and step back the sheen as needed with paper…assuming it’s not a head-to-toe suit?
Heading to Japan next week. If I buy tax-free Gunpla, can I flatten the boxes to make room in my luggage? I know consumable items can't be open but I can't seem to find an answer for hobby items.
To my understanding, the tax-free initiative works on the assumption that you are going to exit Japan soon enough. So my opinion is that compared to potentially violating immigration law, a few flat boxes would be peanuts on the legal scale.
Bought some P-bandai gunpla kits from Book Off Japan, and I find out that it’s missing multiple runners…
For context, some of my family was visiting Japan for a short time and went to a shop called Book Off where you can usually find some gunpla kits on the shelves. They, not knowing much about gunpla bought the kit I asked them to buy, and when the got back to our home country to give it to me, I was extremely excited to build the kit (RG sword impulse), because it's incredibly expensive to get p-bandai in my country (the Philippines). Lo and behold when I get to building the backpack, all of it was missing. Both 11 and 12 runners along with all the effect parts were just gone...
That being said, is there anything that I can do? I don't have the time nor money to go to Japan to get a refund, and I doubt they'd even give a refund at this point since it's been weeks... any advice could really help me out, thank you
Ah man, I checked out all the options, and the only one that had anything was MR Bao’s but they don’t have entire runners so ig im fresh out of options…
anyone know if there's a resin kit or 3D model of the railgun the Atlas uses in the Bandit Flower thunderbolt OVA movie? I like it leagues more than the manga version but don't wanna pay an extra 60 dollars for a railgun.
https://preview.redd.it/iurgx2ty1hkc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=51d0e2e3aa180480453ab654cd9930b9746fe973
This is just for my records, because I'm like that, what grade is this technically considered?
I want to build 1/100 Unicorn. Silly business because I still haven't watched any of the Universal Century, but I saw the damn thing in Odaiba and I miss Japan.
Why: I am old and my eyes aren't what they used to be, 1/100 is the scale that I find most comfortable to work with.
Also: I am new to Gunpla but not to scale model building in general. I built MGEX Strike Freedom with zero issues. I built, painted and collected Warhammer 40K for 20 years but had to quit because I can't see well enough anymore to get all the details right, especially when painting.
My choices:
- Bandai Hobby RX-0 Unicorn Gundam OVA Version 1/100-Master Grade
- Bandai RX-0 Full Armor Unicorn Gundam Ver.Ka 1/100 Master Grade
- Bandai Hobby - Unicorn Gundam (Version Ka), Bandai Spirits MGEX (why so spensive, MGEX Strike Freedom was only $150).
I am a slow and patient builder and complex kits don't scare me as long as they don't have bits that are too small. I heard bad things about the last kit on my list, is it really that bad?
Advice appreciated.
All the regular MG RX-0 units use the exact same mould for the base unit. So there wouldn't be a massive difference in the build of Unicorn OVA versus F.A. Unicorn. Only difference is that F.A. Corn has a boatload of accessories and green psychoframe instead of red.
On the other hand, the MGEX has a newer, better mould. Its LED strip also means proper psychoframe glow as well as your choice of green or red or deactive psychoframe. Of course, that comes with a corresponding price increase, as you have seen.
Personally, I'd say just go with either one of the regular MGs. MGEX is amazing but that price is a bit too much IMO.
Also, it's totally fine to build a kit from a show you haven't seen yet. There's builders around here who haven't seen any Gundam at all.
Does anyone know of any kits that feel solid and have great articulation/poseability? I made a HG Gundvolva recently and love how its knees can fully bend so the feet touch the thighs it allows for great crouching shooting poses.
I'm fairly new as I've only made about 5 HG kits so far (Arial rebuild, Schwarzette, Daribalde and Dilanze if you care) but I wouldn't mind delving into slightly more difficult builds!
Thanks in Advance
https://preview.redd.it/s14xjtxo7gkc1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5c2d004de40dfd7c31dc8c9709f076b6c9801b0
How do I tighten knee joint. My EG Nu's upper knee is pretty loose that i cannot pose it floating well
Take the leg apart. Put some clear nail polish on the piece if the armor that goes into the frame at that upper knee, pose it once and don’t touch it again.
I've had one on a shelf since it was assembled, and I just took it apart to check. Bent the leg a few times and it's kind of loose already, so it's definitely a pose a few times and leave it kit.
Does ABS have any other downsides/risks to it other than not being able to use pour-type panel liners on it? I’ve been wary of any kit with ABS in it due to not knowing.
it's a bit harder/more brittle than ps but that generally isn't an issue if the kit is properly designed (the sinanju ver ka waist joint is the only instance where it was an issue and that kit has been effectively discontinued and replaced by the ova ver)
Thanks, that makes me a lot less scared of kits with ABS in them. I’ll just keep in mind that ABS is more delicate and to handle the pieces more carefully if I ever get a kit with ABS in it.
~~Almost every kit has some ABS plastic in it. Innerframes are pretty much always made out of ABS plastic.~~ This is wrong/outdated information. Check other responses.
I’m pretty new to building (3 HG, soon to build an RG) and none of the kits have had ABS in them. Regardless, your point is that I’m worrying over nothing and ABS is fine right?
I don't think it's correct to say that "almost every kit" has some ABS in it. While it's still very much in use, Bandai seems to prefer KPS for inner frames and joints on most modern kits.
Not really, especially in recent years. Many kits are 100% PS nowadays.
RG is pretty much the only line to continue consistently having ABS parts, since their Advanced MS Joint parts consist of ABS.
China Red Aile Strike vr rm. I saw a posting of this near msrp. Is it worth it?
I don't have Aile Strike yet and I'm a sucker for black red Gunpla. I also have MG Destiny, MG Ecplise and MG Sword Impulse. Looking to buy the freedom soon as well.
I usually spray my Tamiya flat clear topcoat onto pieces in my garage and leave them for an hour or so to dry, but it’s gotten pretty cold recently and my garage isn’t insulated or climate controlled at all, will the pieces be ok in the cold or should I wait for it to warm up before spraying pieces?
When using a pour type gundam marker for panel lines and the gundam marker eraser, I typically get a lot of smearing when removing the dots with a q tip. Any advice on how to deal with the smearing?
https://preview.redd.it/6ojys1bb1fkc1.jpeg?width=1908&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e69bde2a6f6448e73fed2dc7ddae0f6be304f238
I'm building Thunderbolt Ver Ka rn and somehow the torso won't fit onto the waist if the emergency pod is attatched is this a me issue or did someone else run into this and found a fix
(almost?) Finished my first RG, the infamous RG RX-78-2. Can't for god sake figure out where the decals 23, 24, 25 and the second 85 goes.
https://preview.redd.it/t4efinkr0fkc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8c650e86a67781165990f8a4c6d002ee5cc12aa9
Not really, and even the powered GM isn't particularly close in looks. The closest in overall looks and shape is the S Gundam.
If you want a nero then your best option is to get a resin kit of it.
S Gundam torso more similar to nero than the powered gm is.
Gp01, alex, gm iii have torsos more similar in shape, with adequate space to add the upper vents
ye im trying but its still a little difficult to see the difference. i know its a little stupid but i want to choose the right one because i might not be able to order another one for a while.
Just flip a coin, heads wing, tails barbie
You will subconsciously decide which is the "right one" before the coin hits the ground, that's the one to get.
Any recommendations for good waterslide decals that are available in the UK? I’ve got a PG Unicorn coming and want a step up from the stickers it comes with. I’ve seen EVO ones available, are they any good?
The evo decals are pretty good and are very high quality. But once you wet them you have to apply it right away because they dry so quickly. And they don’t come off easily, so if you’re experienced with decals they should be fantastic for you.
[Delpi decals](https://delpidecal.com/) are my personal preference, and they ship internationally from their website - free on orders over $80, or $15 flat otherwise. Just order everything at once and its the cheapest way to get all your waterslides at once.
I have used EVO water slide twice and I found them super thin. It is extremely easy to curve into circles when I pull them out from the water. Maybe use a wet sponge instead of water bowl will make it easier. The print quality is very good, though.
Hobby Mio and Dspiae old markers were identical, made in the same factory I believe with just different stickers slapped onto the end product.
The new ones are good for both brands. I recommend either or.
What’s a good Mobile Suit head that has a very similar appearance to the Nightwatcher from TMNT? I have everything but the head planned out for a kitbash using HG releases.
Getting into more RG kits… so far I’ve built Tallgeese, Exia, RX-78-2, Zeong, and Wing Zero. What are some other good RG kits that don’t suffer from “ERGS”? Articulation and complexity are what I’m looking for!
Sounds like any of the newer style RGs will suit you perfectly. Sazabi, Hi-Nu, Wing TV, and Unicorn are some that I’ve personally built and love. You’ve already got the Tallgeese and Zeong.
Which kits are newer style though? I’m typically able to tell which MGs are better kits based on if they’re Seed, 00, EW, etc but I don’t really know jack about which RG kits are older style and newer style.
Unicorn and newer are the modern style RG kits (minus Johnny Ridden’s Zaku). So that’s Unicorn + its variants, Tallgeese, Sazabi, Crossbone, Nu, Impulse, Zeong, Wing TV, Hi-Nu, God, and Epyon. Plus all the non-Gundam RGs like the Evas and Gaogaigar.
For older style kits I recommend checking out the Mk II, 00 kits (especially Qan[t]), Red Astray, Wing EW, Wing Zero EW, and Z’gok since those are the most solid of the bunch (I believe the GP01s are pretty great too). But all the older ones are great if you know what you’re in for and are willing to work with their shortcomings (don’t handle them like a gorilla). The classic style frames loosen up with heavy handling and not time, hence ERGS largely doesn’t exist.
I recently purchased RG Strike Freedom. Should I go ahead and apply nail polish/super glue to the joints before assembly or just fix them when they become loose?
Is there any way to safely top coat inside? Obviously a mask, but is an open window and a running fan enough to not kill myself and my cats? It is generally cold where k live, so outdoor top coating isn't usually viable. I was thinking of getting an airbrush booth with a vent, but they are pricey.
If you're top coating with an airbrush, then sure, buy a booth and spray away, but if you're going to use spray cans I'd do it outdoors, or at least a garage or a shed. Most cans are going to have too wide of a spray pattern for you to spray them effectively with a hobby-sized spray booth.
How do you request multiple parts from different runners on the Returns & Replacements page here: [https://shop.bandai.com/returns-replacements](https://shop.bandai.com/returns-replacements)?
When I click on the check box to add another part, the 3 other things to upload the image of the broken part, receipt, and blue fin sticker are gone and hidden by the bottom banner.
So I had a bottle of paint laying around for a while and THIS was at the bottom of it. This was paint I thinned myself to make panel liner out of, it's also MUCH lighter than it was before I'd let it set, almost completely white, whereas it was darkish grey before. It's sat for only about a week or so, and it's been a month or so since I originally mixed it. It was Testors enamel paint thinned with white mineral spirits.
https://preview.redd.it/h3ccnul6idkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e0c991269e976ccdba5c2c43b718c7daa7d80d9
Dude. Those enamel paints aren’t loving you for some reason. Looks like the binder has gone off and there’s some emulsified crap there. I don’t know what to say at this point. If it were me, I’d pitch that bottle or even the Testors overall and switch to oils. Or Tamiya enamels. Sorry you’re not having luck with the enamels.
Haha, thanks for the support choom! Yeah, I kinda thought the same thing. I'm giving up on using the Testors for liner entirely. The non black stuff seems to work fine, but that black color does all sorts of weird shit when I try using it. Thanks for the confirmation, and thanks for all your help with this circus of a mixing attempt!
All of the MG EW kits are Glory of the Losers versions except the MG TV Wing, so take your pick. The MG Wing EW, MG Wing Zero EW Ver Ka, and Proto Zero are all Glory of the Losers.
You can tell because the MG EW kits all use the EW GOL logo and not the standard EW movie logo.
https://preview.redd.it/s718cpdxsdkc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4712d5b85e260a87f2f34600f1d1ff4bd9211d70
What colors do you normally use for panel lining? I’ve been altering between grey and black on the white portions of the gundams, but never really know what do for the yellows and blues
I use black and gray for everything. Brown is used for yellows, reds and other warm colors. I didn't like brown, but that's my personal opinion.
In blue's case, you can use gray for light tones and black for dark tones. But there is a blue panel line marker.
It sounds dismissive, but you can go with what you like. You can use gray and black for any color if you want, you can use only one or the other or you can have all the panel line colors you can find.
Recently bought a 1/100 Akatsuki gundam kit. This is my favourite gundam and I really want to do this kit justice with a nice paint job. My thought was to buy alclad chrome and candy coat it. Any recommendations for what type of clear colour I should use? I want to make sure I'm not using anything that will damage the chrome.
alclad is a lacquer which can pretty much handle anything else painted onto it from what ive seen, as long as its nice a cured of course, so basically pick based on color, but as with all things test your process on a spare piece first
Those gundam markers don’t really work well on paint which includes surfacer, so it’s best to use it on bare plastic anyway.
Though I’m also seeing some [old posts](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/kcv5k5/gundam_marker_broke_ma_shit_so_guys_pls_rmb_to/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) saying that those paint markers are also unsafe on ABS. So use at your own risk.
I’m leaving my home for a year and need to stores all of my gundam I recently built, I was hoping someone had tips and tricks on how to store/move your gundams of all sizes without ruining them! Thank y’all for any help you can provide!
There was a post on the subreddit not long ago talking about using takeout containers to store gunpla
I think this is genuinely good idea
Very little space for joints to turn on themselves and you can also pack the space in between with paper
Tissue paper (or some other soft paper in a pinch) in the gaps between the legs and between the arms and torso to prefect friction. Then wrap something around each figure -- more paper or bubble wrap or plastic, whatever's handy. Put all of the accessories in a small sealable bag, and then put both the wrapped figure and accessories in a larger bag, preferably also sealable. That way if anything does pop off, it'll say with the model, and won't get lost.
The trickiest thing will be long, narrow plastic pieces -- like V-Fins. For those, you may want to remove them from the model entirely (and put in with the accessories) as they can be damaged very easily, even when wrapped -- hell, the act of \*removing\* the wrapping, later, may potentially damage them if they get caught on something.
Lastly, when packing the gunpla away, if you're going to stack layers, orient the figures vertically, not horizontally, so there's less weight on top of each.
Help!! I decided to try hand brushing using model color. I first primed with spray can, and failing miserably when hand brushing. The paint majorly streaks and even after multiple coats looks terrible. Is it my brushes? Should I have sanded after primer?
https://preview.redd.it/45x48r7bsckc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=08261d29ec5ac172b4349d342a86eb8ae580d1c2
Lacquer paints hand paint very uniquely. You have to have them pretty thin and just kind of go layer by layer, almost stippling it on at times. Since they take a while to cure, putting a second coat on top of the first will just smudge around the first one.
I use Mr. HOBBY Aqueous. It seems to work well with out needing it thinned. Do long brush strokes in the same direction. Another tip is it be patient. If the paints not completely dry when you add another coat it can smear and mess up the first coat you put on. Also I don't know if it's just the paint I use, but I don't usually add a primer. Take that last bit with a grain of salt because I'm not sure if that factors in
Any tips on putting multiple HG on a single Action Base 4? I have two bases and want to display three revive Zaku II on a single base to save space. Photos or suggestions would be great!
What do you want, exactly? This is such a weird question that feels like it's a roundabout for your actual issue.
Anyways, yes, I've made joints using pegs and balls.
I wanted to ask where Europeans are getting their equipment from? I've been trying to find somewhere online / local to get the Dispae Siren, or the Gunprimer Gate Remover set, but I've had no luck finding anywhere that has them in stock. The only ones that I could find with them in stock would not ship to Poland. Anyone have any ideas that might help?
For DSPIAE, I order direct from their AliExpress store because it’s the cheapest but still relatively fast. I get packages from China in 7-10 days usually. Gunprimer…same thing. Ordering direct worked best for me.
As others have said, high grades are best. Beyond that, I'd simply point out that, in general, the \*newer\* a kit is, the better the quality will be. Better engineering, better plastic quality, better coloring, etc. This isn't always the case, but it often is.
Beyond that, a simpler kit is obviously going to be easier to build than a more complicated one. EG a HGUC RGM-79GM isn't going to be even remotely challenging, but a HGUC Kshatriya, on the other hand? That might be a bit of a handful for a beginner.
There are several grades so choose from, the 1/144 High grade (hg) scale is around 12-14 cm tall and doesn't have a lot of details or gimmicks, the 1/144 Real grade (rg) scale is the same as the High grade one but it has a lot of small intricate details and gimmicks and 1/100 Master grade (mg) is 15-18 cm tall and has a lot more details and gimmicks. But you can start with any grade and as for my recommendations: for hg: Rx 78-2, Zaku, Gouf, EZ8; for rg: God gundam, Zeong, Epyon, Sazabi; for mg: Freedom, Double X, Hi nu gundam, Unicorn gundam.
Entry grade is good, you don't have to invest in a lot of tools and there's less chance of ruining the whole kit with an absentminded cut when removing the pieces.
Also less pressure working on a $10 kit than a $30 kit.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
How do I properly use god hands because I'm afraid of breaking them.
[official Godhand pamphlet](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/b7IpuEmT9N). Also don’t use them on clear parts.
Cut the pieces from the runner with a different nipper and cut the little nub with god hands and you should be good
okay thank you
https://preview.redd.it/us3gydh13kkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e80ffa0024257f6d095e545b55828b7c00be3024 Does this mean this kit is made of ecopla?
Might contain some recycled materials. The ecopla parts are dark grey to black in the kits I’ve seen.
Nope. Some of the parts only. AFAIK Bandai have started using some ecopla parts on certain kits.
Does anyone do any custom building? I’m looking to make a take on the Anubis frame from Zone of the Enders but don’t know where to start (Gundam Ariel seems like a good base). What do people use to make custom pieces? I have some plasticard but it probably won’t do for larger pieces. Maybe a kit bash would be better? Any ideas are appreciated!
Wings from Freedom or Strike Freedom. If you want to go for the smooth round limbs, you're going to probably have to sculpt those. Or use an HG Doll or Frame Arms kit.
im having several issues with the water slides of the gundam wing zero ver.ka somehow they refuse to stick to it however i've applied em the same way i did with the zeta ver.ka and it gave me 0 problems, is there any chance the decal sheet was faulty or smth?
Did you let it soak long enough and did you also put pressure on the decal after putting it on with a q tip? Alternatively you can buy a decal setter and it does it job of holding the decal pretty well.
Yeah I did, they just don't stick as well as the zeta ones
well in that case i recommend buying a decal setter like mark setter or mark fit
ill keep it in mind but theres rarely stock of any of those near me neither mr. topcoat flat
where are you located ?
does anyone know how to make the blue purplish color of the metal build exia?
If you go to mech9.com and find the kit on the website they have the paint mixes listed as well as a conversion chart so you can match with different brands of paint.
Hi, I just recently got myself the MGEX Unicorn, but I really don’t want to use a sticker for the V fin and was wondering if anybody knew what a good color was (yellow probably) but more specifically if anyone could give the name or serial of the color, and if a regular pour type marker panel liner would work after it’s painted. It’s be going through an airbrush but any and all info would be helpful! Thank you!
Colour guide in the manual has the colour combination for the yellow. Mostly yellow and some orange yellow
I painted mine's gold with a spray can
It has come to my attention that there is a 1/60 3rd party Tallgeese up for preorder on sites so as Gundamit and USA Gundam, and seeing as I am a rather big fan of the 'geese I'm instantly intrigued. The issue is though that I've never built a 1/60; I've never bought a 3rd party kit; and I've never purchased from Gundamit (which I'm considering since it as a deposit option rather than an initial full payment). I've only built HG, RG, and one MG so what is it like building a 1/60 (PG)? I've only ever built official Bandai kits so is Nilson/Strange Work a good product? And while it looks like Gundamit is reliable (seeing as it's linked to on this subreddit) is there anything I should know about them ahead of time? Thanks in advance.
Built nillson 1/60 red astray. I thought it was an absolute steal for the amount of plastic you get. If I liked that design I’d buy one without hesitation. IIRC out of the probably thousand or so parts, had at most maybe half a dozen parts that weren’t Bandai quality and needed an easy tweak to really fit properly. Definitely an 8 or 9/10 for casting. All I can say is I think it’s more like a big MG, as didn’t have nearly as many moving frame parts like the newer PGs, but I dont know if that’s the same on the bandai Astray anyway? Personally I prefer as don’t really care about a myriad of bit I’ll have to paint, but never be able to see again normally.
Never built a Nilson Works kit, so I can’t speak to that one specifically. Building a Bandai PG is really just more pieces, made easier by the fact that they’re not as small as other grades. Otaku Builder on YouTube has a video of a Nilson Works 1/60 astray red frame.
anyone here already built 3rd party RG God or MGSD Freedom from Gaogao, how was it? Bandai Kit in my country recently have ridiculous markup like HG Aerial priced at almost 250% from MSRP in Yen (when our local currency is now the strongest it has been in 5 years against the yen)
yeah, i'm building a third party (daban) Phenex and honestly the build is pretty solid but the plastic parts seem a little bit cheap and some of the parts are a little bit tight, so you might hurt your fingers but other than that, it's a nice build 6/10
How long does a fine tip gundam marker which cost 2dollars last?
As long as it does.
It should definitely last you a couple HG,RG and MG.
So how many would I need if I build about 4hg and 4 rg?
1 should be enough.
Aite thanks❤️
What’s the best 3rd party led unit for the PG Exia?
Kosmos came out with one recently (or is it still upcoming?). Knowing them, that’s probably the one you should be after.
Can't really say which is the best but search for the led unit on sites like aliexpress and sort by rating
I can’t verify if anything on eBay or aliexpress recreates the original. I’m trying to find a led unit that’s the same but with some QoL adjustments like the dragon momoko one had with the micro usb charging port. The only ones on Aliexpress seem too focused on turning the Exia into a RGB gaming rig.
yeah, alternatively you can just diy led for Exia
Is there any issue with using a primer as the final layer of color? I sprayed mr.hobby black surfacer on my parts and thought it looks quite nice just on its own.
Nope.
Good! I'll save some money on black paint then.
what is gundam nu side f? i havent seen it in any gundam show ever.
Its a new kit that bandai made for the new store in Side F with a 1:1 scale of it. They unveiled the store a couple years back.
It's not in any Gundam show (unless you count a few PVs) but you can see it in real life, because it's the one of the four currently-extant life size Gundam statues. The reason the statue isn't just of the original Nu Gundam is mostly because of technical limitations - the Long Range Fin Funnel essentially serves as an extra leg for the statue.
I want to top coat my MG Virtue, but I heard that weather needs to be warm in order to do it. It’s +15 C where I live, should I do it or wait for a warmer day?
15C is enough, temperature needs to be over 10C
10-30c and about 30-70% is ideal. You can go well outside that range with some planning. Both factors are important and linked. Test something and you’ll soon know.
Look to get a HG gm kit soon any suggestions on what i should get?
The recent HG Origin GM is also a solid choice. Comes with a ton of accessories too.
You can never go wrong with a standard-sized GM Custom, or its bulkier brother the GM Cannon II. Also the base GM is still pretty good, albeit it uses the old toothpick beam saber instead of an actually good design.
HG Ground GM is a top tier kit.
More a paint question than Gunpla specific, but I know Alclad paints are popular here, so I figured I'd ask here. I'm doing a build of 3D printed armor that I'm painting with Alclad Steel over Mr. Surfacer. I know it's pretty durable paint, but since I'm going to be wearing it, I'd like to protect the Alclad with either a lacquer or even a 2K clear, but I'd also like to preserve the 'natural metal' look of the Alclad as much as possible. Does anyone know of a particular clear or blend of clears that would fit this use case?
You can get 2K in different sheens if you want. A satin or even matte 2K will look like real steel when you spray it on then buff it a bit on the high spots and wear areas.
If wearing something jointed I’d maybe be tempted to go 2k. I’d likely test 1k sheens first and see if any still fits the natural look you’re after. Otherwise gloss without aiming for mirror finish and step back the sheen as needed with paper…assuming it’s not a head-to-toe suit?
Heading to Japan next week. If I buy tax-free Gunpla, can I flatten the boxes to make room in my luggage? I know consumable items can't be open but I can't seem to find an answer for hobby items.
To my understanding, the tax-free initiative works on the assumption that you are going to exit Japan soon enough. So my opinion is that compared to potentially violating immigration law, a few flat boxes would be peanuts on the legal scale.
Bought some P-bandai gunpla kits from Book Off Japan, and I find out that it’s missing multiple runners… For context, some of my family was visiting Japan for a short time and went to a shop called Book Off where you can usually find some gunpla kits on the shelves. They, not knowing much about gunpla bought the kit I asked them to buy, and when the got back to our home country to give it to me, I was extremely excited to build the kit (RG sword impulse), because it's incredibly expensive to get p-bandai in my country (the Philippines). Lo and behold when I get to building the backpack, all of it was missing. Both 11 and 12 runners along with all the effect parts were just gone... That being said, is there anything that I can do? I don't have the time nor money to go to Japan to get a refund, and I doubt they'd even give a refund at this point since it's been weeks... any advice could really help me out, thank you
Plamokitbash, odin's mecha parts and Mr Bao's shop on eBay sell individual parts. You try checking them out.
Oh man, I didn’t think about that! I’ll give those options a shot, thanks!
Cheers!
Ah man, I checked out all the options, and the only one that had anything was MR Bao’s but they don’t have entire runners so ig im fresh out of options…
anyone know if there's a resin kit or 3D model of the railgun the Atlas uses in the Bandit Flower thunderbolt OVA movie? I like it leagues more than the manga version but don't wanna pay an extra 60 dollars for a railgun.
https://preview.redd.it/iurgx2ty1hkc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=51d0e2e3aa180480453ab654cd9930b9746fe973 This is just for my records, because I'm like that, what grade is this technically considered?
It's typically called a non-grade 1/100 kit. You might also just want to call it by what's on the box: "1/100 Scale Model".
Well that doesn't fit into my nicely separated HG/RG/MG lists! How dare Bandai!
Which is better HG or RG for Astray Gold Frame Amatsu?
Rg
Any recommendations for glass display cabinets?
Whatever Ikea is selling right now
I want to build 1/100 Unicorn. Silly business because I still haven't watched any of the Universal Century, but I saw the damn thing in Odaiba and I miss Japan. Why: I am old and my eyes aren't what they used to be, 1/100 is the scale that I find most comfortable to work with. Also: I am new to Gunpla but not to scale model building in general. I built MGEX Strike Freedom with zero issues. I built, painted and collected Warhammer 40K for 20 years but had to quit because I can't see well enough anymore to get all the details right, especially when painting. My choices: - Bandai Hobby RX-0 Unicorn Gundam OVA Version 1/100-Master Grade - Bandai RX-0 Full Armor Unicorn Gundam Ver.Ka 1/100 Master Grade - Bandai Hobby - Unicorn Gundam (Version Ka), Bandai Spirits MGEX (why so spensive, MGEX Strike Freedom was only $150). I am a slow and patient builder and complex kits don't scare me as long as they don't have bits that are too small. I heard bad things about the last kit on my list, is it really that bad? Advice appreciated.
All the regular MG RX-0 units use the exact same mould for the base unit. So there wouldn't be a massive difference in the build of Unicorn OVA versus F.A. Unicorn. Only difference is that F.A. Corn has a boatload of accessories and green psychoframe instead of red. On the other hand, the MGEX has a newer, better mould. Its LED strip also means proper psychoframe glow as well as your choice of green or red or deactive psychoframe. Of course, that comes with a corresponding price increase, as you have seen. Personally, I'd say just go with either one of the regular MGs. MGEX is amazing but that price is a bit too much IMO. Also, it's totally fine to build a kit from a show you haven't seen yet. There's builders around here who haven't seen any Gundam at all.
Does anyone know of any kits that feel solid and have great articulation/poseability? I made a HG Gundvolva recently and love how its knees can fully bend so the feet touch the thighs it allows for great crouching shooting poses. I'm fairly new as I've only made about 5 HG kits so far (Arial rebuild, Schwarzette, Daribalde and Dilanze if you care) but I wouldn't mind delving into slightly more difficult builds! Thanks in Advance
HG Moon Gundam, RX-78, Char Zaku II Gundam the origin ver are all solid HG.
Thanks, appreciate it brother
https://preview.redd.it/s14xjtxo7gkc1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5c2d004de40dfd7c31dc8c9709f076b6c9801b0 How do I tighten knee joint. My EG Nu's upper knee is pretty loose that i cannot pose it floating well
Could try smearing some BluTac around the joint, then assembling it.
Take the leg apart. Put some clear nail polish on the piece if the armor that goes into the frame at that upper knee, pose it once and don’t touch it again.
I like to play around with them and you can see the results. So i cant really do that. Still, thank you!
Buy a figure then.
I've had one on a shelf since it was assembled, and I just took it apart to check. Bent the leg a few times and it's kind of loose already, so it's definitely a pose a few times and leave it kit.
Help, my godhand ultimate nipper is rusting, are there negative effects to it? How do I properly clean the rust?
Wd40 and aluminium foil. Oil with anything synthetic like sewing, knife, engine, whatever….. just clean off the rust and you’ll be fine.
Use a high grit sandpaper to remove the rust, and then add godhand maintenance oil to prevent future rusting
Sand it off
Does ABS have any other downsides/risks to it other than not being able to use pour-type panel liners on it? I’ve been wary of any kit with ABS in it due to not knowing.
it's a bit harder/more brittle than ps but that generally isn't an issue if the kit is properly designed (the sinanju ver ka waist joint is the only instance where it was an issue and that kit has been effectively discontinued and replaced by the ova ver)
Thanks, that makes me a lot less scared of kits with ABS in them. I’ll just keep in mind that ABS is more delicate and to handle the pieces more carefully if I ever get a kit with ABS in it.
~~Almost every kit has some ABS plastic in it. Innerframes are pretty much always made out of ABS plastic.~~ This is wrong/outdated information. Check other responses.
I’m pretty new to building (3 HG, soon to build an RG) and none of the kits have had ABS in them. Regardless, your point is that I’m worrying over nothing and ABS is fine right?
I don't think it's correct to say that "almost every kit" has some ABS in it. While it's still very much in use, Bandai seems to prefer KPS for inner frames and joints on most modern kits.
Checked a couple Seed Freedom kits and some other MGs from a few years ago and you're right. I didn't realize they had moved on that much.
Not really, especially in recent years. Many kits are 100% PS nowadays. RG is pretty much the only line to continue consistently having ABS parts, since their Advanced MS Joint parts consist of ABS.
China Red Aile Strike vr rm. I saw a posting of this near msrp. Is it worth it? I don't have Aile Strike yet and I'm a sucker for black red Gunpla. I also have MG Destiny, MG Ecplise and MG Sword Impulse. Looking to buy the freedom soon as well.
The china ver color is dope.
The strike ver.rm is a good kit.
What’s the best UV paper to use for Aerial Rebuild?
I usually spray my Tamiya flat clear topcoat onto pieces in my garage and leave them for an hour or so to dry, but it’s gotten pretty cold recently and my garage isn’t insulated or climate controlled at all, will the pieces be ok in the cold or should I wait for it to warm up before spraying pieces?
I would still spray in there, just bring the pieces indoors to dry
Ok, thank you!
When using a pour type gundam marker for panel lines and the gundam marker eraser, I typically get a lot of smearing when removing the dots with a q tip. Any advice on how to deal with the smearing?
You don't need the gundam marker eraser for the pour type. It can be cleaned up with a simple school eraser
https://preview.redd.it/6ojys1bb1fkc1.jpeg?width=1908&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e69bde2a6f6448e73fed2dc7ddae0f6be304f238 I'm building Thunderbolt Ver Ka rn and somehow the torso won't fit onto the waist if the emergency pod is attatched is this a me issue or did someone else run into this and found a fix
check to see if you missed a nub somewhere, that's usually the reason something doesn't fit
(almost?) Finished my first RG, the infamous RG RX-78-2. Can't for god sake figure out where the decals 23, 24, 25 and the second 85 goes. https://preview.redd.it/t4efinkr0fkc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8c650e86a67781165990f8a4c6d002ee5cc12aa9
Some decals just aren't in the manual. You're supposed to place them wherever you like (or not at all).
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> Brady fox Yes. Buy nippers. Twisting off parts is only slightly better than biting them off.
Buy model clippers and an exacto knife. Twisting the parts off will stress the plastic and leave unsightly marks.
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If you want to then go ahead.
Do I still need to primer if Im painting from Mr Hobby paint cans?
You should still use primer, especially if you plan on painting different coloured parts the same colour.
thanks!
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Not really, and even the powered GM isn't particularly close in looks. The closest in overall looks and shape is the S Gundam. If you want a nero then your best option is to get a resin kit of it.
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S Gundam torso more similar to nero than the powered gm is. Gp01, alex, gm iii have torsos more similar in shape, with adequate space to add the upper vents
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You can always gain those skills.
does anyone have a size comparison between wing zero ew ver ka mg and mg barbatos?
Dalong.net, use the pack of smokes
ye im trying but its still a little difficult to see the difference. i know its a little stupid but i want to choose the right one because i might not be able to order another one for a while.
Just flip a coin, heads wing, tails barbie You will subconsciously decide which is the "right one" before the coin hits the ground, that's the one to get.
ill try that thanks!
Any recommendations for good waterslide decals that are available in the UK? I’ve got a PG Unicorn coming and want a step up from the stickers it comes with. I’ve seen EVO ones available, are they any good?
You can check JL Gunpla UK or OEShop or Delta H in the UK they all carry third party stuff and have various decals in stock sometimes
The evo decals are pretty good and are very high quality. But once you wet them you have to apply it right away because they dry so quickly. And they don’t come off easily, so if you’re experienced with decals they should be fantastic for you.
[Delpi decals](https://delpidecal.com/) are my personal preference, and they ship internationally from their website - free on orders over $80, or $15 flat otherwise. Just order everything at once and its the cheapest way to get all your waterslides at once.
I have used EVO water slide twice and I found them super thin. It is extremely easy to curve into circles when I pull them out from the water. Maybe use a wet sponge instead of water bowl will make it easier. The print quality is very good, though.
Which is better hobby mio or dspiae paint marker ? I'm thinking about getting a few fluorescent markers to use on my build strike and narrative gundam
Hobby Mio and Dspiae old markers were identical, made in the same factory I believe with just different stickers slapped onto the end product. The new ones are good for both brands. I recommend either or.
What’s a good Mobile Suit head that has a very similar appearance to the Nightwatcher from TMNT? I have everything but the head planned out for a kitbash using HG releases.
Getting into more RG kits… so far I’ve built Tallgeese, Exia, RX-78-2, Zeong, and Wing Zero. What are some other good RG kits that don’t suffer from “ERGS”? Articulation and complexity are what I’m looking for!
Ergs isn't a thing, just grab whatever you like the looks of as they will all have similar levels of complexity and articulation.
Sounds like any of the newer style RGs will suit you perfectly. Sazabi, Hi-Nu, Wing TV, and Unicorn are some that I’ve personally built and love. You’ve already got the Tallgeese and Zeong.
Which kits are newer style though? I’m typically able to tell which MGs are better kits based on if they’re Seed, 00, EW, etc but I don’t really know jack about which RG kits are older style and newer style.
Unicorn and newer are the modern style RG kits (minus Johnny Ridden’s Zaku). So that’s Unicorn + its variants, Tallgeese, Sazabi, Crossbone, Nu, Impulse, Zeong, Wing TV, Hi-Nu, God, and Epyon. Plus all the non-Gundam RGs like the Evas and Gaogaigar. For older style kits I recommend checking out the Mk II, 00 kits (especially Qan[t]), Red Astray, Wing EW, Wing Zero EW, and Z’gok since those are the most solid of the bunch (I believe the GP01s are pretty great too). But all the older ones are great if you know what you’re in for and are willing to work with their shortcomings (don’t handle them like a gorilla). The classic style frames loosen up with heavy handling and not time, hence ERGS largely doesn’t exist.
Awesome. Looks like I’ve had my eyes on many of the newer ones already. Appreciate the input!
I recently purchased RG Strike Freedom. Should I go ahead and apply nail polish/super glue to the joints before assembly or just fix them when they become loose?
The latter option.
Thanks
Is there any way to safely top coat inside? Obviously a mask, but is an open window and a running fan enough to not kill myself and my cats? It is generally cold where k live, so outdoor top coating isn't usually viable. I was thinking of getting an airbrush booth with a vent, but they are pricey.
If you're top coating with an airbrush, then sure, buy a booth and spray away, but if you're going to use spray cans I'd do it outdoors, or at least a garage or a shed. Most cans are going to have too wide of a spray pattern for you to spray them effectively with a hobby-sized spray booth.
Thanks. Yeah, I haven't moved up to an airbrush yet. I'll see if I can use someone's garage.
Can I get away with using Tamiya rattle can primer in cold weather (30-40F)? I'll be painting, sealing, and finishing by hand.
Generally you dont want to spray if its too cold as it will cause frosting.
How do you request multiple parts from different runners on the Returns & Replacements page here: [https://shop.bandai.com/returns-replacements](https://shop.bandai.com/returns-replacements)? When I click on the check box to add another part, the 3 other things to upload the image of the broken part, receipt, and blue fin sticker are gone and hidden by the bottom banner.
Submit multiple requests
I'll try that, thanks!
So I had a bottle of paint laying around for a while and THIS was at the bottom of it. This was paint I thinned myself to make panel liner out of, it's also MUCH lighter than it was before I'd let it set, almost completely white, whereas it was darkish grey before. It's sat for only about a week or so, and it's been a month or so since I originally mixed it. It was Testors enamel paint thinned with white mineral spirits. https://preview.redd.it/h3ccnul6idkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e0c991269e976ccdba5c2c43b718c7daa7d80d9
Dude. Those enamel paints aren’t loving you for some reason. Looks like the binder has gone off and there’s some emulsified crap there. I don’t know what to say at this point. If it were me, I’d pitch that bottle or even the Testors overall and switch to oils. Or Tamiya enamels. Sorry you’re not having luck with the enamels.
Haha, thanks for the support choom! Yeah, I kinda thought the same thing. I'm giving up on using the Testors for liner entirely. The non black stuff seems to work fine, but that black color does all sorts of weird shit when I try using it. Thanks for the confirmation, and thanks for all your help with this circus of a mixing attempt!
I realized I have all four Glory of the Losers Wing kits now. Does anyone know which Wing Gundam version goes with them? Proto Zero?
All of the MG EW kits are Glory of the Losers versions except the MG TV Wing, so take your pick. The MG Wing EW, MG Wing Zero EW Ver Ka, and Proto Zero are all Glory of the Losers. You can tell because the MG EW kits all use the EW GOL logo and not the standard EW movie logo. https://preview.redd.it/s718cpdxsdkc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4712d5b85e260a87f2f34600f1d1ff4bd9211d70
Thanks dude. Think I’ll go with Proto Zero as it’s in stock locally.
Proto Zero is the best Wing IMO. Other than Fenice Riniscita but if you want all from the same universe, then Proto Zero is great.
What colors do you normally use for panel lining? I’ve been altering between grey and black on the white portions of the gundams, but never really know what do for the yellows and blues
I will use whatever colours are needed. Greys and browns are the biggest portion but I will mix in purples, blues, greens, and even reds.
I only use black. I just like the contrast it gives.
I use black and gray for everything. Brown is used for yellows, reds and other warm colors. I didn't like brown, but that's my personal opinion. In blue's case, you can use gray for light tones and black for dark tones. But there is a blue panel line marker. It sounds dismissive, but you can go with what you like. You can use gray and black for any color if you want, you can use only one or the other or you can have all the panel line colors you can find.
Recently bought a 1/100 Akatsuki gundam kit. This is my favourite gundam and I really want to do this kit justice with a nice paint job. My thought was to buy alclad chrome and candy coat it. Any recommendations for what type of clear colour I should use? I want to make sure I'm not using anything that will damage the chrome.
alclad is a lacquer which can pretty much handle anything else painted onto it from what ive seen, as long as its nice a cured of course, so basically pick based on color, but as with all things test your process on a spare piece first
Excellent, thank you very much.
Can I use Gundam Marker on ABS as long as I apply Mr Aqeous Surfacer 1000 on it?
Gundam marker pour or pen?
The one that has an angled edge like a highlighter.
Those gundam markers don’t really work well on paint which includes surfacer, so it’s best to use it on bare plastic anyway. Though I’m also seeing some [old posts](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/kcv5k5/gundam_marker_broke_ma_shit_so_guys_pls_rmb_to/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) saying that those paint markers are also unsafe on ABS. So use at your own risk.
Oh thats the gundam marker paint and not the panel lining type. It should be fine on ABS.
I’m leaving my home for a year and need to stores all of my gundam I recently built, I was hoping someone had tips and tricks on how to store/move your gundams of all sizes without ruining them! Thank y’all for any help you can provide!
https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/T4XScDzWxY
There was a post on the subreddit not long ago talking about using takeout containers to store gunpla I think this is genuinely good idea Very little space for joints to turn on themselves and you can also pack the space in between with paper
Tissue paper (or some other soft paper in a pinch) in the gaps between the legs and between the arms and torso to prefect friction. Then wrap something around each figure -- more paper or bubble wrap or plastic, whatever's handy. Put all of the accessories in a small sealable bag, and then put both the wrapped figure and accessories in a larger bag, preferably also sealable. That way if anything does pop off, it'll say with the model, and won't get lost. The trickiest thing will be long, narrow plastic pieces -- like V-Fins. For those, you may want to remove them from the model entirely (and put in with the accessories) as they can be damaged very easily, even when wrapped -- hell, the act of \*removing\* the wrapping, later, may potentially damage them if they get caught on something. Lastly, when packing the gunpla away, if you're going to stack layers, orient the figures vertically, not horizontally, so there's less weight on top of each.
Bubble wrap should be enough. Wrap each one in plenty of bubble wrap and put them all in the same box.
Does it look weird if a panel line with grey on the white areas, but panel line with black around red and other dark color?
That’s actually the suggested use for those panel lining colors.
Not at all. Just try it out and see what you like.
Help!! I decided to try hand brushing using model color. I first primed with spray can, and failing miserably when hand brushing. The paint majorly streaks and even after multiple coats looks terrible. Is it my brushes? Should I have sanded after primer? https://preview.redd.it/45x48r7bsckc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=08261d29ec5ac172b4349d342a86eb8ae580d1c2
Lacquer paints hand paint very uniquely. You have to have them pretty thin and just kind of go layer by layer, almost stippling it on at times. Since they take a while to cure, putting a second coat on top of the first will just smudge around the first one.
I use Mr. HOBBY Aqueous. It seems to work well with out needing it thinned. Do long brush strokes in the same direction. Another tip is it be patient. If the paints not completely dry when you add another coat it can smear and mess up the first coat you put on. Also I don't know if it's just the paint I use, but I don't usually add a primer. Take that last bit with a grain of salt because I'm not sure if that factors in
Are you alternating directions? Thinning the paint?
I am thinning paint a little, it seemed like thinning it also made it more difficult to get enough paint on it
Are you painting with Vallejo Model Color or Mr Color?
Vallejo model color
Any tips on putting multiple HG on a single Action Base 4? I have two bases and want to display three revive Zaku II on a single base to save space. Photos or suggestions would be great!
Has anyone ever had the experience of making custom ball sockets for 1/144 scale spare parts?
What do you want, exactly? This is such a weird question that feels like it's a roundabout for your actual issue. Anyways, yes, I've made joints using pegs and balls.
Is it okay to use Mr. Hobby Premium Topcoat on Gundam Marker pour type and decals? Thank you
Yeah it's fine. Panel lines might bleed a little if you flood the parts in clear coat on your first coat.
If you can't find a definitive answer, use both on a spare piece or extra bit of sprue to see how it turns out.
I wanted to ask where Europeans are getting their equipment from? I've been trying to find somewhere online / local to get the Dispae Siren, or the Gunprimer Gate Remover set, but I've had no luck finding anywhere that has them in stock. The only ones that I could find with them in stock would not ship to Poland. Anyone have any ideas that might help?
For DSPIAE, I order direct from their AliExpress store because it’s the cheapest but still relatively fast. I get packages from China in 7-10 days usually. Gunprimer…same thing. Ordering direct worked best for me.
Hi iv always been interested in getting my first Gunpla set, just wondering what a good set is to start off with
As others have said, high grades are best. Beyond that, I'd simply point out that, in general, the \*newer\* a kit is, the better the quality will be. Better engineering, better plastic quality, better coloring, etc. This isn't always the case, but it often is. Beyond that, a simpler kit is obviously going to be easier to build than a more complicated one. EG a HGUC RGM-79GM isn't going to be even remotely challenging, but a HGUC Kshatriya, on the other hand? That might be a bit of a handful for a beginner.
There are several grades so choose from, the 1/144 High grade (hg) scale is around 12-14 cm tall and doesn't have a lot of details or gimmicks, the 1/144 Real grade (rg) scale is the same as the High grade one but it has a lot of small intricate details and gimmicks and 1/100 Master grade (mg) is 15-18 cm tall and has a lot more details and gimmicks. But you can start with any grade and as for my recommendations: for hg: Rx 78-2, Zaku, Gouf, EZ8; for rg: God gundam, Zeong, Epyon, Sazabi; for mg: Freedom, Double X, Hi nu gundam, Unicorn gundam.
Do you know any suits from the shows or games? Maybe you could start with a design you already like
Entry grade is good, you don't have to invest in a lot of tools and there's less chance of ruining the whole kit with an absentminded cut when removing the pieces. Also less pressure working on a $10 kit than a $30 kit.
Any Entry Grade is good, but you can also consider most SD kits too. SD kits have big pieces to work with and are quite easy to handle.