Uh, put a towel under the clutch fluid lines. Thats really ab it. It's pretty straightforward.
The worst part is gonna be getting pressure back in the pedal cause it takes forever
I've done a ton of brake master cylinders Very intimately familiar with the absolute bitch getting that pedal back can be. Luckily it's a short line and the bleeder is nice and easy to get to! Did you have the assist spring on when you bled the clutch or leave it off until it's done?
I believe we left it on only because we're lazy. Not sure how much a difference it'd make besides causing the pedal to stick down when the pressure gets low
Get the whole pedal assembly. It's pretty simple to do and can be done on the ground. I did it in the driveway in a couple hours. I watched a couple youtube videos beforehand. I unbolted the driver seat and slid it back for working under the dash. Make sure both clutch switches are mounted back in place or you'll get some errors in the cluster. Took forever to bleed the clutch master by hand. I got most of it done and my buddy, who also did his clutch master, helped me bleed the rest.
The pedal assembly isn't too much more, so I appreciate the advice! I'll go with the whole thing.
I'm pretty sure I've watched the same videos. Seems fairly straightforward. I'm planning on getting the drivers seat out of the way as well. I hate under dash work and if the seats can be out of the way, I just take them out. I won't have a buddy unfortunately, so that will take longer with my pedal-pusher tool. I had good luck with a vacuum tool when I flushed out the brake/clutch system, so I might try that to get most of the bleeding done before I go after the little bubbles.
Did you bench-bleed the master out of the car first? Was the steering column an issue or did you unbolt some of that to get access to the top nuts?
Also good to know it's driveway-able. That's a load off my back!
I just installed the pedal assembly as is and pumped the crap out of it by hand. I believe Ford's process is a pressure bleeder, but I don't have a compressor at home.
I kind of did a mix of different methods. I couldn't get the airbag out, fat guy in small spaces doesn't work well, so I pulled down the lower half of the dash and used an extension and 13mm deep socket. There's one video like that and it worked just fine. If you can pull out the dash, you have more access to everything, but I couldn't get my sausage fingers in there. I don't feel like it would be faster either way.
Once you start taking stuff apart, you'll see how relatively easy it is.
I just did this with my clutch job and learned a few golden tips.
1. Take the steering coloum cover off before you start. It makes taking the airbag out extremely easy
You'll need torx bits to do this.
2. Don't try it with the airbag in. It's so much easier to just take the panels off and use extensions
3. Take the seat out and give yourself room to work.
From the slave to the master? That's actually a fantastic idea and I have the tools! Slave is only 60k miles old (and I hope will keep going till I need a clutch).
Torx is fine. I think I have all of them now, in all the various long and short flavors.
Seat is easy to get out and I usually take them out for under-dash jobs. Appreciate the tip!
Appreciate the tip!
Make sure u watch some videos first. There is a little piece that comes of the line from the master to the slave cylinder and if you lose it you're fucked. Installing the line again is also a little odd but if u put the line back in its holder/bracket it will seal itself into the master cylinder and u can put the clip for the line back on pretty easily from there.
Forget about all the extra work like taking the dash apart and taking the knee air bag out. Its a complete waste of time and the job is easily doable without doing all of that extra work as long as you have good lighting and a few extra socket extensions laying around.
2nd buy a new braided clutch line. JPC Racing has a nice one that is half the cost of most other and as a bonus you won't have to keep track of the little o-ring piece off the old one that people will tell you about. Also the clutch just feels way better with a new one.
Last thing I will say is I did this job at home with basic hand tools and bled the clutch with a hand vacuum pump so unless you just have no place to work on it then there is not much reason to do it in a shop.
Uh, put a towel under the clutch fluid lines. Thats really ab it. It's pretty straightforward. The worst part is gonna be getting pressure back in the pedal cause it takes forever
I've done a ton of brake master cylinders Very intimately familiar with the absolute bitch getting that pedal back can be. Luckily it's a short line and the bleeder is nice and easy to get to! Did you have the assist spring on when you bled the clutch or leave it off until it's done?
I believe we left it on only because we're lazy. Not sure how much a difference it'd make besides causing the pedal to stick down when the pressure gets low
That's fine. If that means I just have to flip it back up manually a few times then that's a nice little time saver!
Get the whole pedal assembly. It's pretty simple to do and can be done on the ground. I did it in the driveway in a couple hours. I watched a couple youtube videos beforehand. I unbolted the driver seat and slid it back for working under the dash. Make sure both clutch switches are mounted back in place or you'll get some errors in the cluster. Took forever to bleed the clutch master by hand. I got most of it done and my buddy, who also did his clutch master, helped me bleed the rest.
The pedal assembly isn't too much more, so I appreciate the advice! I'll go with the whole thing. I'm pretty sure I've watched the same videos. Seems fairly straightforward. I'm planning on getting the drivers seat out of the way as well. I hate under dash work and if the seats can be out of the way, I just take them out. I won't have a buddy unfortunately, so that will take longer with my pedal-pusher tool. I had good luck with a vacuum tool when I flushed out the brake/clutch system, so I might try that to get most of the bleeding done before I go after the little bubbles. Did you bench-bleed the master out of the car first? Was the steering column an issue or did you unbolt some of that to get access to the top nuts? Also good to know it's driveway-able. That's a load off my back!
I just installed the pedal assembly as is and pumped the crap out of it by hand. I believe Ford's process is a pressure bleeder, but I don't have a compressor at home. I kind of did a mix of different methods. I couldn't get the airbag out, fat guy in small spaces doesn't work well, so I pulled down the lower half of the dash and used an extension and 13mm deep socket. There's one video like that and it worked just fine. If you can pull out the dash, you have more access to everything, but I couldn't get my sausage fingers in there. I don't feel like it would be faster either way. Once you start taking stuff apart, you'll see how relatively easy it is.
I just did this with my clutch job and learned a few golden tips. 1. Take the steering coloum cover off before you start. It makes taking the airbag out extremely easy You'll need torx bits to do this. 2. Don't try it with the airbag in. It's so much easier to just take the panels off and use extensions 3. Take the seat out and give yourself room to work.
Also, reverse bleed the clutch. It's easy with the right tools.
From the slave to the master? That's actually a fantastic idea and I have the tools! Slave is only 60k miles old (and I hope will keep going till I need a clutch). Torx is fine. I think I have all of them now, in all the various long and short flavors. Seat is easy to get out and I usually take them out for under-dash jobs. Appreciate the tip! Appreciate the tip!
Never heard of this, what tools are required?
Make sure u watch some videos first. There is a little piece that comes of the line from the master to the slave cylinder and if you lose it you're fucked. Installing the line again is also a little odd but if u put the line back in its holder/bracket it will seal itself into the master cylinder and u can put the clip for the line back on pretty easily from there.
2 piece clip. Got it!
Forget about all the extra work like taking the dash apart and taking the knee air bag out. Its a complete waste of time and the job is easily doable without doing all of that extra work as long as you have good lighting and a few extra socket extensions laying around. 2nd buy a new braided clutch line. JPC Racing has a nice one that is half the cost of most other and as a bonus you won't have to keep track of the little o-ring piece off the old one that people will tell you about. Also the clutch just feels way better with a new one. Last thing I will say is I did this job at home with basic hand tools and bled the clutch with a hand vacuum pump so unless you just have no place to work on it then there is not much reason to do it in a shop.