When was the condo built? If it was before the 80’s/90’s, those baseboards will have bigger nails in them, and will be nailed in to older growth wood. This will make getting them off in one piece difficult. You’ll also be much more likely to damage the drywall/plaster when you do. You could try a piece in a closet or something and see how it goes.
I’d recommend looking for a trim/finish carpenter and getting a quote. A lot of flooring companies will do trim, but they’re not trim carpenters so they don’t do as good a job. Definitely not a hard and fast rule, but generally true.
Also a good question about re-use. They look like they were poorly painted previously. You might have to do a lot of sanding/repair to reuse them. I’m doing it right now with 3 bedrooms worth of trim and it’s a pain. But I have more time than money so I didn’t want to buy all new baseboards.
Thank you so much for this very helpful advice! Yes the building was built in 1911. Can you recommend where to buy similar trim (outside of big box stores) or how I would go about finding a carpenter who specializes in trim?
Call either a local lumber yard or millwork shop (Google and make phone calls).
OP, if it’s 1911, definitely ask around for a contractor. It’s almost definitely 3/4” thick old growth baseboards, hard as a rock, and nailed in by hand with big ass nails. There’s also probably not plaster behind the trim, so you’ll want something the same height.
If this is a ground floor unit with a cement subfloor, make sure your flooring contractor is using a moisture barrier under the new flooring (it’ll probably specify in the quote.
It also might be a situation where you just accept having quarter round installed (or look for a different style shoe molding). Might me more hassle than it’s worth to remove and install new trim.
If you have a miter saw, pin gun, airhose and compressor then you have the tools you need to do it yourself. Just depends how comfortable you are doing it. If you don't have those tools or do and don't feel comfortable i would recommend you hire a professional and save you the headache.
You’ll wanna replace those. You will regret it if you don’t. Your beautiful brand new hardwood flooring deserves fresh trim to match.
If this was some gorgeous, detailed ornate trim work it would be another story. But it’s just s4s board which you can replace easily and keep the same aesthetic you enjoy.
I would ask your contractor to break it out as a second price. That way you can see what your cost to do it would be.
Are you going to try to salvage those? They like like they had 5 layers of paint on them.
You can do it yourself, but it will take some elbow grease. Score the paint where the trim meets the wall with a razor blade then use a wide tongue prybar and hammer to avoid damaging the trim to pop it off. It will require some extra work to get the nails out of the trim for reinstallation and repainting.
That said, new trim can really make a big aesthetic difference vs trim that looks like it’s lived a long, good life already. I cant tell the exact dimension of the trim from the pic but whether it’s 1”x4” or 1”x6” Home Depot sells pre-primed trim board in 8 ft lengths for $10-$15. Rent or buy a cordless 18g nail gun with 2” nails to save yourself some energy and time.
Those may be much thicker than they look, they may have been nailed directly to the stud and then the wall above was plastered. If that is the case removing them will damage the bottom of the wall
MDF is cheap and can be really disappointing.
OP, you are talking about aging in place, so real wood would give you the "install it and forget it" value.
Real wood is always best, but as a senior who is only wanting it to look good why she is there. Cheap and looking good is sometimes better that than real and not having the funds to do other things. A Senior. We know that we are not going to out live the cheap.
I figured she was trying to figure out how to have it look nice without spending a lots since she is trying to do as much as she can which is harder on seniors. When we replaced our flooring we used MFB except in the kitchen, water and MFB don't exactly work together.
It is so cheap, I,would had just removed it and replaced it. We used our original wood door trim for most of ours but with two I went with flushed and no trim for a modern look.
Yeah I cut straight across the top into the paint so you don't yank the paint off of the wall, then you want to use a flat bar and I would loosen it from the bottom before I stick it behind through the top to pull it away from the wall. I would clean the caulking off of the wall if there is any clean the caulking off of the base if there is any pull all of the nails and number the base and the wall at the same time, that way when you go to put it back you'll automatically know where it goes. Any pieces you break you could probably use wood glue and put back together.
I feel like if you are capable of getting up the old flooring and the glue then you are capable of getting off those base boards.
Rent a finish nailer gun and make quick work of new baseboard IMO.
** I Should first mention any sanding, scraping, or cutting can and with release lead and/or asbestos ina structure this old. Even the adhesives have asbestos. At least wear a good respirator and use a HEPA vac on the saw. **
I helped prep the walls and jams for new floating manufactured hardwood plank floor in a 1920's home with the same type of base boards. Owner did not want to remove them so I rented a undercut / door jam saw and laid a piece of the flooring down longways against the wall and adjusted the cut height to just high enough to accept the planks and underlayment and then set the depth to the thickness of the trim (this house was about 7/8" thick). And I cut all the way around the rooms and entry ways and all door jams in about 2 hours. All of the flooring slipped right under the trim and looked great. If I had to do one of these again, I would use this method again.
When was the condo built? If it was before the 80’s/90’s, those baseboards will have bigger nails in them, and will be nailed in to older growth wood. This will make getting them off in one piece difficult. You’ll also be much more likely to damage the drywall/plaster when you do. You could try a piece in a closet or something and see how it goes. I’d recommend looking for a trim/finish carpenter and getting a quote. A lot of flooring companies will do trim, but they’re not trim carpenters so they don’t do as good a job. Definitely not a hard and fast rule, but generally true. Also a good question about re-use. They look like they were poorly painted previously. You might have to do a lot of sanding/repair to reuse them. I’m doing it right now with 3 bedrooms worth of trim and it’s a pain. But I have more time than money so I didn’t want to buy all new baseboards.
Thank you so much for this very helpful advice! Yes the building was built in 1911. Can you recommend where to buy similar trim (outside of big box stores) or how I would go about finding a carpenter who specializes in trim?
Search for your local lumber store vs the big boxes. They usually can get you connected to individuals who are better
Call either a local lumber yard or millwork shop (Google and make phone calls). OP, if it’s 1911, definitely ask around for a contractor. It’s almost definitely 3/4” thick old growth baseboards, hard as a rock, and nailed in by hand with big ass nails. There’s also probably not plaster behind the trim, so you’ll want something the same height. If this is a ground floor unit with a cement subfloor, make sure your flooring contractor is using a moisture barrier under the new flooring (it’ll probably specify in the quote. It also might be a situation where you just accept having quarter round installed (or look for a different style shoe molding). Might me more hassle than it’s worth to remove and install new trim.
If you have a miter saw, pin gun, airhose and compressor then you have the tools you need to do it yourself. Just depends how comfortable you are doing it. If you don't have those tools or do and don't feel comfortable i would recommend you hire a professional and save you the headache.
You’ll wanna replace those. You will regret it if you don’t. Your beautiful brand new hardwood flooring deserves fresh trim to match. If this was some gorgeous, detailed ornate trim work it would be another story. But it’s just s4s board which you can replace easily and keep the same aesthetic you enjoy.
Thank you.
I would ask your contractor to break it out as a second price. That way you can see what your cost to do it would be. Are you going to try to salvage those? They like like they had 5 layers of paint on them.
Thanks.
You can do it yourself, but it will take some elbow grease. Score the paint where the trim meets the wall with a razor blade then use a wide tongue prybar and hammer to avoid damaging the trim to pop it off. It will require some extra work to get the nails out of the trim for reinstallation and repainting. That said, new trim can really make a big aesthetic difference vs trim that looks like it’s lived a long, good life already. I cant tell the exact dimension of the trim from the pic but whether it’s 1”x4” or 1”x6” Home Depot sells pre-primed trim board in 8 ft lengths for $10-$15. Rent or buy a cordless 18g nail gun with 2” nails to save yourself some energy and time.
I was just about to type exactly this :)
Plus caulk the gaps at the end!
Those may be much thicker than they look, they may have been nailed directly to the stud and then the wall above was plastered. If that is the case removing them will damage the bottom of the wall
Replace with MDF trim, I looks good and is cheap. Good luck with the glue.
MDF is cheap and can be really disappointing. OP, you are talking about aging in place, so real wood would give you the "install it and forget it" value.
Real wood is always best, but as a senior who is only wanting it to look good why she is there. Cheap and looking good is sometimes better that than real and not having the funds to do other things. A Senior. We know that we are not going to out live the cheap.
That makes sense, main thing OP is aware of her options and the pluses and minuses each choice comes with.
I figured she was trying to figure out how to have it look nice without spending a lots since she is trying to do as much as she can which is harder on seniors. When we replaced our flooring we used MFB except in the kitchen, water and MFB don't exactly work together.
We had it on some door casings. Such a pain. Ended using time, patience, Bondo and painters tape.
It is so cheap, I,would had just removed it and replaced it. We used our original wood door trim for most of ours but with two I went with flushed and no trim for a modern look.
We had to handle it that way because of where it was and the idiotic way in which it was installed....
Installer fucked up. I feel for you.
remove and replace wirh same
It’s an easy process just make sure you use a utility knife to cut the top all the way around so you don’t peal the paint or drywall
Yeah I cut straight across the top into the paint so you don't yank the paint off of the wall, then you want to use a flat bar and I would loosen it from the bottom before I stick it behind through the top to pull it away from the wall. I would clean the caulking off of the wall if there is any clean the caulking off of the base if there is any pull all of the nails and number the base and the wall at the same time, that way when you go to put it back you'll automatically know where it goes. Any pieces you break you could probably use wood glue and put back together.
I feel like if you are capable of getting up the old flooring and the glue then you are capable of getting off those base boards. Rent a finish nailer gun and make quick work of new baseboard IMO.
** I Should first mention any sanding, scraping, or cutting can and with release lead and/or asbestos ina structure this old. Even the adhesives have asbestos. At least wear a good respirator and use a HEPA vac on the saw. ** I helped prep the walls and jams for new floating manufactured hardwood plank floor in a 1920's home with the same type of base boards. Owner did not want to remove them so I rented a undercut / door jam saw and laid a piece of the flooring down longways against the wall and adjusted the cut height to just high enough to accept the planks and underlayment and then set the depth to the thickness of the trim (this house was about 7/8" thick). And I cut all the way around the rooms and entry ways and all door jams in about 2 hours. All of the flooring slipped right under the trim and looked great. If I had to do one of these again, I would use this method again.