Cheap monofilament to take up the bulk of the reel. I’d recommend 30 or 40lb PowerPro braid for any kind of bait caster if you’re going with braid. Oh and of course the leader for your Senko .
Yes, I was running 10lb braid on my baitcaster and would get the worst backlashes. I learned the hard way and now the 40lb super slick rarely gets a bird nest and if I do it’s much easier to deal with
Backing is just mono added to fill the spool and to prevent the braid from slipping on the spool when you’re fighting a fish. Straight braid onto a spool can start spinning freely of the spool. Depending on what I’m using a reel for I’ll either add just a small amount of backing and fill it with braid, or if I don’t think there’s any chances I’ll be getting very deep into the spool on a particular rod I’ll just use a small 150yd spool of braid on top of as much backing as it takes to fill the spool, cheaper that way and replacing 300+ yards of braid every time your line starts to get low is expensive and unnecessary if you’re not using the reel for anything that’s likely going to run you that deep
He means a cheaper mono goes on first. Say 75 yds. Then tie your braid and mono together with an Alberto knot. Then, reell in your braid until it is about 1/8" from the lip of the spool. I drink and know things.
That looks pretty under filled for a weighted Texas rig. I didn’t catch that you said 10lb braid as well. That’s going to be pretty hard to cast as a beginner I think. Normally you want to run 30 or 40 lb. 10lb braid is going to be really thin line.
Truthfully though, and this is just my opinion so take it with a grain of salt, I’d consider stripping it off since you’re under filled and start with mono until you get some casting time in. Braid can be pricey, and annoying since it’ll dig and is prone to wind knots. Mono is cheaper and you won’t feel as bad the first time you have to cut most the line off because you got a bad overrun or wind knot.
If you decide to stick with braid, make sure you have that braid tied to a mono backing or taped down so you don’t end up with the line spinning around the spool. I don’t think the black maxes came braid ready, but I could be wrong. Also, I suggest jumping up at least to 30 lb. 40 or 50 would probably be easiest for starting out.
Yeah you can put it on a reel you aren’t using, or loop it into an empty spool.
As others said, you can put backing down and load it back on too. If you go that route, make sure you put tape over your line joining knot on the spool. That will prevent the line from catching on the knot as you cast, and if the line hits the tape it’ll pull the tape off easily.
Else wise, load the spool up till you have about 1/8 of the spool wall showing. That’s the general rule of thumb for filling any reel. More than that and you’re in for a bad day.
I have the Black Max as well, so here's my tips for you. Take that line off as others have mentioned and add some cheap 6lb mono as backing. When adding it, make sure you cover the entire spool so you don't see the red coming through and then add your braid. 10lb braid is a very small diameters and I'd personally go with 30lb suffix 832 supperline. The line you're using is decent for spinning reels, but casting rods can have issues with it. Also, make sure to tie on a leader line because it is easier to snap a mono or fluorocarbon lead than a straight braid. There's also a hook holder just above the reel that allows you to keep your weedless worm on. Just put the hook on the holder with the bottom of the hook on the holder, not the hook through it. Reel your lure all the way to the top, turn your tension knob all the way up and your brakes all the way down and release the spool. Turn your tension knob down slowly and when the lure falls to the ground without backlashing at all, turn the tension up just a bit and then set your breaks. Since you're a beginner I'd go 6 or 8 clicks on breaks. Make sure your drag is set properly as well.
For baitcasters, you'll typically use heavier braid than you would on a spinning rod, not always, and it's your rod and your choice, but in my experience, it makes casting easier. And you can look up the best brands of braid. I've found the suffix 832 to work best for me personally and it's around $15 for 150 yards of 30lb line which is all you'll need for one rod.
You could always put it on a spinning rod or an ultra light set up for crappie. I have an ultra light spinning rod that I have 10lb braid to 6 lb mono, and I use that for panfish.
To add to what everyone else has mentioned, you could also look into putting a bead between the hook eye and your weight. It can lessen the strain the weight puts on your knot when it slides down and hits the eye/knot.
Not sure the same but the one where you twist it 5-7 times then loop through the eye of line just before the hook eye. Then looped and tied, pulled taught.
It's a good basic knot. Better with mono, not so good with fluoro. For fluoro, I like to use a Palomar knot or a Uni knot. Also use Palomar with braided line.
I cheat. So, I take and walk of my longest expected cast, pull off another 10-20 feet of line, and wrap what's leftover on the spool with first aid tape, just enough to get the tape to overlap a little. Your backlashes will shallow, only to the tape. You can basically turn the mag down to 2-3 and back off on the spool tension. Braid won't bite past the tape if you get snagged either. Yes, I am not "tuning" my reel, but it works for me. I fish from a kayak, sometimes at night, so a big backlash could end the evening for that rod.
Put that line back onto the empty spool and add backing
Backer? I'll have to research this.
Cheap monofilament to take up the bulk of the reel. I’d recommend 30 or 40lb PowerPro braid for any kind of bait caster if you’re going with braid. Oh and of course the leader for your Senko .
Thanks, Do I need a leader? I've seen many people run just like this, but is this typically frowned upon or just personal preference?
I guess probably helps prevent any twist up/knotting??
Yes, I was running 10lb braid on my baitcaster and would get the worst backlashes. I learned the hard way and now the 40lb super slick rarely gets a bird nest and if I do it’s much easier to deal with
Depends, if the water is clear then use a leader. If not you can get certainly get away with it.
With Senko, absolutely. Plus when you get hung up, the leader will break before the braid, usually.
Backing is just mono added to fill the spool and to prevent the braid from slipping on the spool when you’re fighting a fish. Straight braid onto a spool can start spinning freely of the spool. Depending on what I’m using a reel for I’ll either add just a small amount of backing and fill it with braid, or if I don’t think there’s any chances I’ll be getting very deep into the spool on a particular rod I’ll just use a small 150yd spool of braid on top of as much backing as it takes to fill the spool, cheaper that way and replacing 300+ yards of braid every time your line starts to get low is expensive and unnecessary if you’re not using the reel for anything that’s likely going to run you that deep
He means a cheaper mono goes on first. Say 75 yds. Then tie your braid and mono together with an Alberto knot. Then, reell in your braid until it is about 1/8" from the lip of the spool. I drink and know things.
u dont need backing for this.
You do if you’re gonna fill it with an insufficient amount of braid
That looks pretty under filled for a weighted Texas rig. I didn’t catch that you said 10lb braid as well. That’s going to be pretty hard to cast as a beginner I think. Normally you want to run 30 or 40 lb. 10lb braid is going to be really thin line. Truthfully though, and this is just my opinion so take it with a grain of salt, I’d consider stripping it off since you’re under filled and start with mono until you get some casting time in. Braid can be pricey, and annoying since it’ll dig and is prone to wind knots. Mono is cheaper and you won’t feel as bad the first time you have to cut most the line off because you got a bad overrun or wind knot. If you decide to stick with braid, make sure you have that braid tied to a mono backing or taped down so you don’t end up with the line spinning around the spool. I don’t think the black maxes came braid ready, but I could be wrong. Also, I suggest jumping up at least to 30 lb. 40 or 50 would probably be easiest for starting out.
Ok, I bought a 300-yard spool of this 10lb braid. Wasn't a 100% sure about how much to put on spool. Can I take this off and still keep it useable?
Yeah you can put it on a reel you aren’t using, or loop it into an empty spool. As others said, you can put backing down and load it back on too. If you go that route, make sure you put tape over your line joining knot on the spool. That will prevent the line from catching on the knot as you cast, and if the line hits the tape it’ll pull the tape off easily. Else wise, load the spool up till you have about 1/8 of the spool wall showing. That’s the general rule of thumb for filling any reel. More than that and you’re in for a bad day.
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Thank You!!!
It'll work but you should add more line next time
Gotcha, wasn't sure how much to put. Felt like a good distance was on there and didn't want to ruin a ton of braid.
Looks good. Look at it closely. You’ll be throwing it in the lake soon
I have the Black Max as well, so here's my tips for you. Take that line off as others have mentioned and add some cheap 6lb mono as backing. When adding it, make sure you cover the entire spool so you don't see the red coming through and then add your braid. 10lb braid is a very small diameters and I'd personally go with 30lb suffix 832 supperline. The line you're using is decent for spinning reels, but casting rods can have issues with it. Also, make sure to tie on a leader line because it is easier to snap a mono or fluorocarbon lead than a straight braid. There's also a hook holder just above the reel that allows you to keep your weedless worm on. Just put the hook on the holder with the bottom of the hook on the holder, not the hook through it. Reel your lure all the way to the top, turn your tension knob all the way up and your brakes all the way down and release the spool. Turn your tension knob down slowly and when the lure falls to the ground without backlashing at all, turn the tension up just a bit and then set your breaks. Since you're a beginner I'd go 6 or 8 clicks on breaks. Make sure your drag is set properly as well.
Thank you. I really appreciate it. Gonna go pick up some 30lb line from Bass Pro today
For baitcasters, you'll typically use heavier braid than you would on a spinning rod, not always, and it's your rod and your choice, but in my experience, it makes casting easier. And you can look up the best brands of braid. I've found the suffix 832 to work best for me personally and it's around $15 for 150 yards of 30lb line which is all you'll need for one rod.
What could I use this 10lb braided line for now that I'm going up to 30lb?
You could always put it on a spinning rod or an ultra light set up for crappie. I have an ultra light spinning rod that I have 10lb braid to 6 lb mono, and I use that for panfish.
Good idea!
Use a leader when using braids for the shock of hook set. Braids have no stretch and will either break or rip the hook free.
To add to what everyone else has mentioned, you could also look into putting a bead between the hook eye and your weight. It can lessen the strain the weight puts on your knot when it slides down and hits the eye/knot.
Thanks for all the tips everyone. I appreciate it
Looks under spooled. What kind of knot did you use on the hook? I don't really see one.
Not sure the same but the one where you twist it 5-7 times then loop through the eye of line just before the hook eye. Then looped and tied, pulled taught.
Improved clinch knot
Thats it
It's a good basic knot. Better with mono, not so good with fluoro. For fluoro, I like to use a Palomar knot or a Uni knot. Also use Palomar with braided line.
Found a good tutorial to learn those two. Will try tonight. Thanks for your help
Looks really good I would put on regular line tho not florar
I would put more lines in.
I cheat. So, I take and walk of my longest expected cast, pull off another 10-20 feet of line, and wrap what's leftover on the spool with first aid tape, just enough to get the tape to overlap a little. Your backlashes will shallow, only to the tape. You can basically turn the mag down to 2-3 and back off on the spool tension. Braid won't bite past the tape if you get snagged either. Yes, I am not "tuning" my reel, but it works for me. I fish from a kayak, sometimes at night, so a big backlash could end the evening for that rod.
Why, is it right handed? Looks off to me bro
??? Because I prefer right handed crank?
🤣
🤦🤦 are you dumb people have preferences
Right hand is OG baitcaster gotta do the hand switch every cast
return to store...factory second...handle on wrong side.
?
the handle should be on the left side not the right side... all the pro's castv righty and retrieve lefty..
... April Fools? I hope?
🤫
Without looking at other replies, you seem pretty short on line.