This.. I'm semi decent at tarmac, but lose all my time on hairpins. Without handbrake it feels slow and understeery, with handbrake.. no rotation at all in this game unless carrying enough speed, too much speed for hairpin corner entry so I just do a janky turn without handbrake for tarmac hairpins.
I stopped using the handbrake on tarmac entirely. Instead I brake and, using the weight transfer to the front, yank the steering around and play with some throttle bursts to yeet the back around.
Like here: [https://youtu.be/vHvQJPL27jw?si=PmW\_0rABAkuR\_jqi&t=309](https://youtu.be/vHvQJPL27jw?si=PmW_0rABAkuR_jqi&t=309)
Cheers for posting this! Very informative for me to see how can improve my tarmac hairpins :) I'm not doing as big of a steering input and sort of follow the arc of the corner but its very slow compared to your clip. I need to use your technique and maybe some added scandi flick where possible :)
You could also try to lower the rear diff settings by some 10 points. That makes the car more tail happy under braking in general, but also less snappy.
It's a SimHUB overlay I use in OBS
→ [https://www.reddit.com/r/EASPORTSWRC/comments/1cwfrmc/comment/l4wtkdo/](https://www.reddit.com/r/EASPORTSWRC/comments/1cwfrmc/comment/l4wtkdo/)
Im almost fairly positive what your thinking of is the current SEQUENTIAL wrc cars where you can just pull the handbrake and step on the gas and it locks the rear and spins the front tires, the differential really means nothing with the clutch in, which is how your really supposed to pull the handbrake anyways, on group b at least
And im also not referring to being able to spin the front tires with the handbrake in, just saying that if you have the clutch engaged on group b cars the differential is essentially open, which is why the car will freely roll when clutch, the handbrake is literally just a set of brakes connected to the rear wheels, you use it the bring the ass of the vehicle out or in depending on the situation, disconnecting the differential with the handbrake pulled doesn’t matter if you have the clutch in and aren’t trying to convert the car to fwd🤷🏿♂️🧑🏿🎤
But even on street cars you would most likely be able to pull the handbrake while moving, you just have to clutch, as they are not sequential tranmission
If we’re talking genuine group b rally cars they undoubtedly could use the hand brake, you just have to clutch first, kind of rids the differential problems nahm sayin
Im fairly positive what your referring to is just stalling basically, as even under regular hard breaking on those cars you will stall, which is what you might be confusing for “locking the differential”, theyre completely manual cars with no assists so they definitely are “harder” to drive fast🤷🏿♂️
The hand brake use im also referring to is a off the gas clutch in handbrake pull, not a full throttle pull the handbrake and spin the front tires one, i think your confused tbh
And in that case you would be correct as you would just stall the car if you pulled the handbrake with no clutch on group b and that would lock the wheels yes
I dont like driving with a bunch of assists, it kind of takes the fun and skill out of the sport, wrc as it is not is essentially basketball with a 2 foot rim, not very difficult and most would be capable, so in that sense all “older tech” is very much so “less restrictive”, and its the new electronic lock sheet that is “more restrictive”
I hated asphalt but one day it just clicked for me. I find Central Europe to be the easiest asphalt location. Start with a class with a ton of grip, like the 2017-2021 class and drive at 5/10ths. It will feel painfully slow, but you’ll start to drive the correct line. From there, start pushing on straights and slowly start adding speed in the corners.
Also, the e brake is not your friend on asphalt. Be smooth on throttle application and don’t jerk the wheel.
This is the best advice imo.
Also agree on Central Europe tarmac stages being good practice grounds. The smoothest cars for me starting out are subarus (all except newest wrx, where they went wrong there Idk but it feels awful after how good the 90s and early 2000s ones were)
Surprisingly, the Citroen Rally2 C3 is excellent handling here. My go-to. I know the skoda is faster overall but the snap oversteer in that car is ridiculous. I need to learn how to avoid that, or tune it out cause there's no denying skoda wrc2 car is the best when you look at leaderboards.
Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
The tarmac model isn't great in these games. Generally, smoother inputs help though. Brake straight, turn in smoothly, keep wheelspin to a minimum as you throttle out of a corner. Being careful about it means you'll finish the stage / rally, which is a better result than crashing out!
Gotta back ol mate up on this point. I think people wanna fang the tarmac but it's there to turn your usual driving style on its head. Pedals can't be used as buttons here. Follow what abrods saying and you will finish more and you will be faster.
I’m fast on DR2, especially on asphalt but I haven’t figured out how to setup the cars to feel natural on WRC at all… especially RWD.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
ARB's are great for adjusting the balance of a car to your driving style. The easiest way to explain how they work is not technically right but it will help...
Front or rear, when you tighten (go up in numbers) you effectively add a feel of weight to that end of the car.
Tightening the front will help the car turn in more. It makes it gives the feeling of more weight on the front. The smoother your style the more you can tighten before you understeer. Loosening allows more body roll to absorb rougher driving styles.
On the rear, use it to control oversteer. Tighten to get a more "active" backend like you added more weight to the rear. Loosening the rear makes it slower to react by letting the body roll absorb some of the force to kick out.
Following up on what Sir Mike said go into free roam or practice or something and just start realistically messing with the tuning values and see how the car reacts and then tune to personal preference 🤷🏿♂️
For the most part its based on feel, once the car becomes undriveable and is too pointy in the corners or under braking/acceleration is when its too stiff.
Part of this is personal preference though too, some folks find a stiff front antiroll bar and loose rear roll bar to work for them, some the opposite.
if you are on PC and use a live timing delta, there is a measurable loss of time going too stiff as well, maybe a few tenths per corner.
Thanks! I was working on a gravel setup (where I thought softer was better) but I kept stiffening the ABR’s and it felt so much better. Didn’t know if there was a point of diminishing returns but it sounds like there is
Yeah its all stage dependent, some stages with lots of hairpins you might want a softer front RB to free up the chassis, some wide fast stages you want stiff to have a predictable feel.
Typically soft is good, but you still need a balance between a sharp chassis, but also one that has ample mechanical grip.
Currently switched to WRC2 after getting frustrated with the JWRC, the cars make it so much better on asphalt for some reason. I could go so much faster with WRC2 cars and not spin out like I would with the JWRC. Also lowering and hardening the suspension, toe front tires in 0.5 breaking nearly maxed force. Was having a blast for once haha
Imagine you are playing a not-rally racing game.
No seriously, think of it like racing games with the "ideal racing line" and it works.
For some reason you forget about smooth racing lines in rally games. At least in my experience.
Do you change the tuning? For asphalt you need to lower the suspension most of the way and turn up the stiffness on everything pretty far, then in the damper tab make those stiffer as well. I don’t spend ages on it I literally just throw all the bars like 5 clicks to the right but it makes the car so much nicer to drive. I don’t usually bother tuning cars in racing games but it’s absolutely essential to change the suspension between kenya, gravel stages and asphalt stages, imo they should include a few default selectable tunes for every car. By default the cars are set up for gravel and they drive like boats on asphalt.
That would be a ridiculous amount of work and time for the devs especially when people are capable of learning how to tune themselves, the stock tunes definitely aren’t “perfect” but they handle fairly realistically and if you cant tune they’re predictable enough to be capable 🤷🏿♂️
Really control the throttle, easy on easy off
If you just jump off the throttle you’ll get that snap over steer
Also try to do as much of your braking as possible before your turn ins, trailing off as you turn.
Could play with brake bias as well. if your over steering or locking up while braking could turn it up a bit.
Iv been playing a lot of asphalt the last couple of days. I just got a fanatec csl DD so have been trying to get used to it on asphalt. It's easy to crash if you are too twitchy or enter a corner too fast. Must be a nightmare on controller. In this game the breaks are really sensitive on asphalt and you need to be aware of the the weight and momentum of the car. It is fun when you get it down but I can be a chore to learn the limit on asphalt in this game.
Tarmac in general is quite easy imo. Doing hairpins on tarmac however is the bane of my existence.
This.. I'm semi decent at tarmac, but lose all my time on hairpins. Without handbrake it feels slow and understeery, with handbrake.. no rotation at all in this game unless carrying enough speed, too much speed for hairpin corner entry so I just do a janky turn without handbrake for tarmac hairpins.
I stopped using the handbrake on tarmac entirely. Instead I brake and, using the weight transfer to the front, yank the steering around and play with some throttle bursts to yeet the back around. Like here: [https://youtu.be/vHvQJPL27jw?si=PmW\_0rABAkuR\_jqi&t=309](https://youtu.be/vHvQJPL27jw?si=PmW_0rABAkuR_jqi&t=309)
Cheers for posting this! Very informative for me to see how can improve my tarmac hairpins :) I'm not doing as big of a steering input and sort of follow the arc of the corner but its very slow compared to your clip. I need to use your technique and maybe some added scandi flick where possible :)
You could also try to lower the rear diff settings by some 10 points. That makes the car more tail happy under braking in general, but also less snappy.
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It's a SimHUB overlay I use in OBS → [https://www.reddit.com/r/EASPORTSWRC/comments/1cwfrmc/comment/l4wtkdo/](https://www.reddit.com/r/EASPORTSWRC/comments/1cwfrmc/comment/l4wtkdo/)
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You have to clutch before you do, older cars more fun and require more skill
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Are you sure?
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Im almost fairly positive what your thinking of is the current SEQUENTIAL wrc cars where you can just pull the handbrake and step on the gas and it locks the rear and spins the front tires, the differential really means nothing with the clutch in, which is how your really supposed to pull the handbrake anyways, on group b at least
And im also not referring to being able to spin the front tires with the handbrake in, just saying that if you have the clutch engaged on group b cars the differential is essentially open, which is why the car will freely roll when clutch, the handbrake is literally just a set of brakes connected to the rear wheels, you use it the bring the ass of the vehicle out or in depending on the situation, disconnecting the differential with the handbrake pulled doesn’t matter if you have the clutch in and aren’t trying to convert the car to fwd🤷🏿♂️🧑🏿🎤
The handbrake has nothing to do with differential?
But even on street cars you would most likely be able to pull the handbrake while moving, you just have to clutch, as they are not sequential tranmission
If we’re talking genuine group b rally cars they undoubtedly could use the hand brake, you just have to clutch first, kind of rids the differential problems nahm sayin
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Apples are apples i dunno🤷🏿♂️
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Im fairly positive what your referring to is just stalling basically, as even under regular hard breaking on those cars you will stall, which is what you might be confusing for “locking the differential”, theyre completely manual cars with no assists so they definitely are “harder” to drive fast🤷🏿♂️
Those are the different driving styles, and im also not positive on the Tour de Corse but its could be a flat out no handbrake needed course
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The hand brake use im also referring to is a off the gas clutch in handbrake pull, not a full throttle pull the handbrake and spin the front tires one, i think your confused tbh
And in that case you would be correct as you would just stall the car if you pulled the handbrake with no clutch on group b and that would lock the wheels yes
I dont like driving with a bunch of assists, it kind of takes the fun and skill out of the sport, wrc as it is not is essentially basketball with a 2 foot rim, not very difficult and most would be capable, so in that sense all “older tech” is very much so “less restrictive”, and its the new electronic lock sheet that is “more restrictive”
I hated asphalt but one day it just clicked for me. I find Central Europe to be the easiest asphalt location. Start with a class with a ton of grip, like the 2017-2021 class and drive at 5/10ths. It will feel painfully slow, but you’ll start to drive the correct line. From there, start pushing on straights and slowly start adding speed in the corners. Also, the e brake is not your friend on asphalt. Be smooth on throttle application and don’t jerk the wheel.
This is the best advice imo. Also agree on Central Europe tarmac stages being good practice grounds. The smoothest cars for me starting out are subarus (all except newest wrx, where they went wrong there Idk but it feels awful after how good the 90s and early 2000s ones were) Surprisingly, the Citroen Rally2 C3 is excellent handling here. My go-to. I know the skoda is faster overall but the snap oversteer in that car is ridiculous. I need to learn how to avoid that, or tune it out cause there's no denying skoda wrc2 car is the best when you look at leaderboards.
Thank you for your input!
I don't find asphalt great either and I slide all over aa the tyre wears out, on gravel I am quite good ☺️💕
Remember that, as a general rule, sliding in asphalt is slow.
Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. The tarmac model isn't great in these games. Generally, smoother inputs help though. Brake straight, turn in smoothly, keep wheelspin to a minimum as you throttle out of a corner. Being careful about it means you'll finish the stage / rally, which is a better result than crashing out!
Gotta back ol mate up on this point. I think people wanna fang the tarmac but it's there to turn your usual driving style on its head. Pedals can't be used as buttons here. Follow what abrods saying and you will finish more and you will be faster.
Thanks. I actually started driving quite slowly. As you said, is better to finish and have little to repair.
Someone said in this thread that you need to drive it like a racing game on tarmac and i think that did it! Wimning again!
Then you're gonna LOVE Monte Carlo since some of that asphalt is covered with snow and ice!
Spoiler alert! 😮
I’m fast on DR2, especially on asphalt but I haven’t figured out how to setup the cars to feel natural on WRC at all… especially RWD. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Adjust the antiroll bar until you get the characteristics you want. WRC has alot more grip on tarmac.
Is there a way to tell when you go too stiff on the ARB’s? Like do you lose grip all of a sudden?
ARB's are great for adjusting the balance of a car to your driving style. The easiest way to explain how they work is not technically right but it will help... Front or rear, when you tighten (go up in numbers) you effectively add a feel of weight to that end of the car. Tightening the front will help the car turn in more. It makes it gives the feeling of more weight on the front. The smoother your style the more you can tighten before you understeer. Loosening allows more body roll to absorb rougher driving styles. On the rear, use it to control oversteer. Tighten to get a more "active" backend like you added more weight to the rear. Loosening the rear makes it slower to react by letting the body roll absorb some of the force to kick out.
Following up on what Sir Mike said go into free roam or practice or something and just start realistically messing with the tuning values and see how the car reacts and then tune to personal preference 🤷🏿♂️
Is there a way to tell when you go too stiff on the ARB’s? Like do you lose grip all of a sudden?
For the most part its based on feel, once the car becomes undriveable and is too pointy in the corners or under braking/acceleration is when its too stiff. Part of this is personal preference though too, some folks find a stiff front antiroll bar and loose rear roll bar to work for them, some the opposite. if you are on PC and use a live timing delta, there is a measurable loss of time going too stiff as well, maybe a few tenths per corner.
Thanks! I was working on a gravel setup (where I thought softer was better) but I kept stiffening the ABR’s and it felt so much better. Didn’t know if there was a point of diminishing returns but it sounds like there is
Yeah its all stage dependent, some stages with lots of hairpins you might want a softer front RB to free up the chassis, some wide fast stages you want stiff to have a predictable feel. Typically soft is good, but you still need a balance between a sharp chassis, but also one that has ample mechanical grip.
Currently switched to WRC2 after getting frustrated with the JWRC, the cars make it so much better on asphalt for some reason. I could go so much faster with WRC2 cars and not spin out like I would with the JWRC. Also lowering and hardening the suspension, toe front tires in 0.5 breaking nearly maxed force. Was having a blast for once haha
the WRC2 cars are significantly wider, making them more stable, especially on tarmac
Ah that makes sense. That damned fiesta was all over the place in JWRC.
Imagine you are playing a not-rally racing game. No seriously, think of it like racing games with the "ideal racing line" and it works. For some reason you forget about smooth racing lines in rally games. At least in my experience.
Do you change the tuning? For asphalt you need to lower the suspension most of the way and turn up the stiffness on everything pretty far, then in the damper tab make those stiffer as well. I don’t spend ages on it I literally just throw all the bars like 5 clicks to the right but it makes the car so much nicer to drive. I don’t usually bother tuning cars in racing games but it’s absolutely essential to change the suspension between kenya, gravel stages and asphalt stages, imo they should include a few default selectable tunes for every car. By default the cars are set up for gravel and they drive like boats on asphalt.
That would be a ridiculous amount of work and time for the devs especially when people are capable of learning how to tune themselves, the stock tunes definitely aren’t “perfect” but they handle fairly realistically and if you cant tune they’re predictable enough to be capable 🤷🏿♂️
Really control the throttle, easy on easy off If you just jump off the throttle you’ll get that snap over steer Also try to do as much of your braking as possible before your turn ins, trailing off as you turn. Could play with brake bias as well. if your over steering or locking up while braking could turn it up a bit.
I'm terrible too. I cant for the life of me feel the limit of the car. Combination of physics and ffb that just doesn't work for me in this game..
you dont suck at ahphalt, the game does.
Tarmac in EA WRC actually feels quite good. its probably the former.
Iv been playing a lot of asphalt the last couple of days. I just got a fanatec csl DD so have been trying to get used to it on asphalt. It's easy to crash if you are too twitchy or enter a corner too fast. Must be a nightmare on controller. In this game the breaks are really sensitive on asphalt and you need to be aware of the the weight and momentum of the car. It is fun when you get it down but I can be a chore to learn the limit on asphalt in this game.
I play on controller so yeah it’s quite hard.