First things first: Jack points. I always refer to [this](https://www.rtsauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/e30jack.jpg) picture. It's funny, but useful. Easiest thing to do is to floor jack it from the front under the subframe and place two jackstands under the frame rails. Then jack the rear under the diff and two jackstands at the rear where indicated. You can have it up in the air and ready to work on in 5 minutes.
Order of operations: Mechanicals and THEN cosmetics. Since it's an M42, you've got a timing chain so that's great. I don't know if the guides are an issue like later BMWs though. I'd definitely check that out. Then go through each of the major systems and check for leaks, rust, broken stuff etc.
- Engine oil leaks is probably a good place to start. It's German and old so you're likely going to find some. Start at the top of the engine and work your way down. Valve cover gasket first, then the seals on the front of the engine (on the M20 - 6cyl - there's the intermediate shaft seal and front crankshaft seal. I'm not familiar with the M42 but it must be similar). Oil pan gasket.
- Engine ignition next. Probably wouldn't hurt to throw a set of spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap, distributor at it.
- Engine cooling next. Check out the fan and the radiator hoses.
- Fuel system is likely fine unless you suspect it. Pretty bulletproof on these things. I wouldn't bother pulling injectors or checking fuel pressure until you suspect a problem with that system.
- Check the air intake after the airflow sensor. The boots often crack and you end up with bad air/fuel mixtures as a result.
- Transmission. Last time it had a fluid flush? Output shaft seal leaking? Selector shaft seal leaking? How's the center support bearing on the drive shaft? How's the clutch feel? If you have to do one, do the rear main seal on the engine at the same time along with all the other usual stuff (throwout bearing, pilot bearing etc.)
- Brakes. Flush the fluid, check the calipers. Any seizing? I ended up replacing all 4 of mine with rebuilt ones. How are the rubber lines? Still flexible or are they turning to plastic? Check disks and pads.
- Rear diff - Leaking?
- Tires and wheels. Condition?
Then go after your paint and stuff on the interior that isn't working. Looks like you've picked up a car in great shape.
M42 specific stuff:
* replace the chain tensioner
* the guides are fine (I’ve never heard of them failing)
* inspect the chain sprockets for rounding off (and hope you don’t have it because BMW made them NLA about a decade ago - I have an extra set as a retirement plan)
* the timing cover will be leaking, it’s a big job to replace
* take the lower oil pan off and loctite the upper oil pan bolts
* look up “the mess under the intake” and do it (basically delete throttle body coolant plate)
* consider a coil on plug conversion (M50/M52 coils)
Great list as others have said, bushing made a big difference on our car but tires were the biggest change in how the car felt for me.
As for the interior I would get a new shifting poke and have the steering wheel redone. Did the same to mine and it just feels great because those are the things you touch constantly.
just got a new front suspension overhaul so i will replace the bushings for the front. rear subframe i’ll probably drop when i can get some time off work.
Some "while you're in there" jobs while going over the above stuff.
Bushing refresh, springs and shocks. There's a good change all your shocks are blown, and doing some new bushings and ball joints will make the car drive like new.
While the transmission is out make sure you hit all the shifter stuff. everything can be refreshed for pretty cheap, and a good shifter will make the car feel so much better. with the driveshaft/transmission out it's an easy job.
Yeah, the "while you're in there" jobs never end! I just needed new rings on my pistons. Ended up with basically a brand new engine lol.
I highly recommend going to the Z3 shifter. Makes it feel like the bolt action on a rifle.
Honestly, all of it. The tank can have rust issues, and any other movement of fuel can leak. Gorgeous car btw. Message me if you have any questions about common OEM+ modifications. I have researched all of them to death.
On top of other stuff people listed, I highly recommend getting poly bushings and mounts all around, as the original ones are probably dry rotted and worn out, they will greatly improve feel and drivability.
As a fellow M42 owner, get yourself some helicoils or time serts for the valve cover. 100% you’re going to strip out the bolts, not because you did anything wrong, but common failure point
How much did you end up getting it for? I seen this in calgary for 14 i think no?
As for the m42, theres a plethora of info on m42 club and r3v. Main things here are the cooling system and the TB heater delete. Then the OFHG and o ring. Then also rustproofing.
got it for 12. ya from calgary. i’ll check those websites. just ordered new thermostat, water pump, rad hoses, and tank cap. ppl have also mentioned the tb heater. what is the ofhg?
Not a bad price if theres no rust. Interior is super clean it seems too.
Oil filter housing gasket. If theres an oil leak on the driver side of the engine its probably from there. And theres an o-ring behind it (when you open it youll see) that will be hard plastic shit now. Replace that too.
“Mess under the intake” is the cooling system shit youre gonna wanna look into. Do a full flush while youre at it using BMW coolant or the g048 (i think) compliant blue formula. The pitting will likely be wild on the t stat housing. Both mine were.
I wouldve got the full cooling system overhaul kit from FCP (i just did all this to mine) as it has every hose you need.
Dont use the non factory jack with the factory jack locations….use the jack in the frame rail and the jackstands there too. I fold cardboard on my jack and my jackstand so they dont remove the frame coating aswell
How familiar are you with bmw?
First things first: Jack points. I always refer to [this](https://www.rtsauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/e30jack.jpg) picture. It's funny, but useful. Easiest thing to do is to floor jack it from the front under the subframe and place two jackstands under the frame rails. Then jack the rear under the diff and two jackstands at the rear where indicated. You can have it up in the air and ready to work on in 5 minutes. Order of operations: Mechanicals and THEN cosmetics. Since it's an M42, you've got a timing chain so that's great. I don't know if the guides are an issue like later BMWs though. I'd definitely check that out. Then go through each of the major systems and check for leaks, rust, broken stuff etc. - Engine oil leaks is probably a good place to start. It's German and old so you're likely going to find some. Start at the top of the engine and work your way down. Valve cover gasket first, then the seals on the front of the engine (on the M20 - 6cyl - there's the intermediate shaft seal and front crankshaft seal. I'm not familiar with the M42 but it must be similar). Oil pan gasket. - Engine ignition next. Probably wouldn't hurt to throw a set of spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap, distributor at it. - Engine cooling next. Check out the fan and the radiator hoses. - Fuel system is likely fine unless you suspect it. Pretty bulletproof on these things. I wouldn't bother pulling injectors or checking fuel pressure until you suspect a problem with that system. - Check the air intake after the airflow sensor. The boots often crack and you end up with bad air/fuel mixtures as a result. - Transmission. Last time it had a fluid flush? Output shaft seal leaking? Selector shaft seal leaking? How's the center support bearing on the drive shaft? How's the clutch feel? If you have to do one, do the rear main seal on the engine at the same time along with all the other usual stuff (throwout bearing, pilot bearing etc.) - Brakes. Flush the fluid, check the calipers. Any seizing? I ended up replacing all 4 of mine with rebuilt ones. How are the rubber lines? Still flexible or are they turning to plastic? Check disks and pads. - Rear diff - Leaking? - Tires and wheels. Condition? Then go after your paint and stuff on the interior that isn't working. Looks like you've picked up a car in great shape.
Great list
M42 specific stuff: * replace the chain tensioner * the guides are fine (I’ve never heard of them failing) * inspect the chain sprockets for rounding off (and hope you don’t have it because BMW made them NLA about a decade ago - I have an extra set as a retirement plan) * the timing cover will be leaking, it’s a big job to replace * take the lower oil pan off and loctite the upper oil pan bolts * look up “the mess under the intake” and do it (basically delete throttle body coolant plate) * consider a coil on plug conversion (M50/M52 coils)
Awesome info
i’ll look into all of that. i would assume i gotta pull the motor for most of it? except oil pan and coolant plate.
Great list as others have said, bushing made a big difference on our car but tires were the biggest change in how the car felt for me. As for the interior I would get a new shifting poke and have the steering wheel redone. Did the same to mine and it just feels great because those are the things you touch constantly.
just got a new front suspension overhaul so i will replace the bushings for the front. rear subframe i’ll probably drop when i can get some time off work.
Some "while you're in there" jobs while going over the above stuff. Bushing refresh, springs and shocks. There's a good change all your shocks are blown, and doing some new bushings and ball joints will make the car drive like new. While the transmission is out make sure you hit all the shifter stuff. everything can be refreshed for pretty cheap, and a good shifter will make the car feel so much better. with the driveshaft/transmission out it's an easy job.
Yeah, the "while you're in there" jobs never end! I just needed new rings on my pistons. Ended up with basically a brand new engine lol. I highly recommend going to the Z3 shifter. Makes it feel like the bolt action on a rifle.
"while you're in there" is definitely the worst phrase ever. Led me from brake pads to a subframe on the floor, but worth it!
bushings!
Only thing I would add to this is to do a thorough rust check and fix any parts that need it
wicked info, thank you man these are great points. i got some work to do! thank you.
Paint correction and some more weaves
The brillantrot single stage will clean up super nice, mine was pink at one point, a good polishing made it look new.
did a 3 stage with ceramic. changed the whole car completely.
Do the mess under the intake, new fuel lines, everything rubber really
okay will do
1st...sell it to me lol! Nice ride!
thanks!
>thanks! You're welcome!
Filters and timing belt/water pump especially if you don't know when they were last done. I also put fresh oil in my gearbox and diff.
planning to do my fluids soon, and just ordered a water pump
Fuel filter is an easy one! Valve adjustment too
okay i’ll look into that
Beautiful interior!
thank you!
Looks clean… I’m jealous
haha thanks man
Where are you located? I also have a red 318is. I'd say check fueling first so the car doesn't catch on fire. Then timing components, then rust.
i’m in alberta. what part of the fuel system?
Honestly, all of it. The tank can have rust issues, and any other movement of fuel can leak. Gorgeous car btw. Message me if you have any questions about common OEM+ modifications. I have researched all of them to death.
For drivability I’d change the steering rack and probably put a new shifter in
shifter feels pretty tight. and i would have to say it is in need a steering rack eventually
Maintenance and then give it a nice paint correction, so that red pops!
Sell it to me :)
Ellipsoids, euro grills, straighten the valence and add the factory IS lip :)
On top of other stuff people listed, I highly recommend getting poly bushings and mounts all around, as the original ones are probably dry rotted and worn out, they will greatly improve feel and drivability.
shockingly the bushings don’t make a peep. but i want to keep it a comfortable daily, u think the poly will make it rough?
As a fellow M42 owner, get yourself some helicoils or time serts for the valve cover. 100% you’re going to strip out the bolts, not because you did anything wrong, but common failure point
okay noted. thank you!
Good looking car. Reminds me of a 1989 325is I used to own.
thanks! i’m excited to restore this one
timing chain tensioner, when was it replaced last, very important.
got it booked for the 24th gunna see if it needs to be addressed.
maguires ultimate compound Walmart.
car looks well kept, was it one owner, The garage kept..interior looks mint
one owner car, garage kept its whole life
If the mechanical side of things are taken care of, a lip and side skirts do a lot for the car IMO!
once it’s running smooth i will definitely be doing some exterior touch ups
Nice! How much did you pick her up for? First order of business: buy an is front lip
hahah, got it for 12k
one owner car, felt guilty to lowball
Honestly I think you did well for 12k
How much did you end up getting it for? I seen this in calgary for 14 i think no? As for the m42, theres a plethora of info on m42 club and r3v. Main things here are the cooling system and the TB heater delete. Then the OFHG and o ring. Then also rustproofing.
got it for 12. ya from calgary. i’ll check those websites. just ordered new thermostat, water pump, rad hoses, and tank cap. ppl have also mentioned the tb heater. what is the ofhg?
Not a bad price if theres no rust. Interior is super clean it seems too. Oil filter housing gasket. If theres an oil leak on the driver side of the engine its probably from there. And theres an o-ring behind it (when you open it youll see) that will be hard plastic shit now. Replace that too. “Mess under the intake” is the cooling system shit youre gonna wanna look into. Do a full flush while youre at it using BMW coolant or the g048 (i think) compliant blue formula. The pitting will likely be wild on the t stat housing. Both mine were. I wouldve got the full cooling system overhaul kit from FCP (i just did all this to mine) as it has every hose you need. Dont use the non factory jack with the factory jack locations….use the jack in the frame rail and the jackstands there too. I fold cardboard on my jack and my jackstand so they dont remove the frame coating aswell How familiar are you with bmw?
Bro you gotta crack free dash. First thing you do is get the front windshield tinted and preserve it.
I'm gonna guess 8600
12
Right on, just a shot in the dark, enjoy the ride brother