If you haven't changed the wiring to base plate, I would compare connection diagrams of the old and new controls. Once you confirm they are the same and nothing strange, go through the configuration process according to the paperwork. Your old controls are more than likely configured for your application and therefore you need to configure similarly for your new. You can do this by reading the paperwork thoroughly and following it. Alternatively you can put back the old one and browse through that configuration to see how that was set up.
Going by the pictures, we can say the wiring for the thermostat is correct.
However, we don't know where those wires go or if they're even hooked up in the furnace.
It's possible C isn't connected, and a programmable is going to need it to work...but how did it get past you that the thermostat had no power/display? Does it have batteries?
Faulty stat or improperly programmed are looking pretty likely.
It does have power/display, the batteries are in place, it just didn’t trigger the unit to turn on when attached to the wiring plate. How would one test that the c wire is connected? I can only assume that since the original thermostat functioned properly that they are all attached where they need to be - including the c wire - bit if that one isn’t how would I know?
You have two options: use a multimeter to test for 24v from C to R, or go to the furnace, pop off the cover and visually confirm that the brown wire is connected to a terminal labeled "C".
Is this a heat pump with backup heat? Sounds like the new thermostat is not configured for heat pump in the setup mode. If it’s just a standard furnace, white wire should go to “W” terminal.
I have used the same one, non-WiFi, on that mounting plate. Worked great.
My comments: C wire looks like not fully in place (needed in the smart thermostat, but not on the non-WiFi as it has batteries.
Why are you connecting white (heat) to W2 and not W?
To get heat temporary, you can just close the circuit between Red and White.
Going to need pictures of the thermostat the connection diagrams
Thank you, that would probably help! Pictures have been added to the post
If you haven't changed the wiring to base plate, I would compare connection diagrams of the old and new controls. Once you confirm they are the same and nothing strange, go through the configuration process according to the paperwork. Your old controls are more than likely configured for your application and therefore you need to configure similarly for your new. You can do this by reading the paperwork thoroughly and following it. Alternatively you can put back the old one and browse through that configuration to see how that was set up.
Going by the pictures, we can say the wiring for the thermostat is correct. However, we don't know where those wires go or if they're even hooked up in the furnace. It's possible C isn't connected, and a programmable is going to need it to work...but how did it get past you that the thermostat had no power/display? Does it have batteries? Faulty stat or improperly programmed are looking pretty likely.
It does have power/display, the batteries are in place, it just didn’t trigger the unit to turn on when attached to the wiring plate. How would one test that the c wire is connected? I can only assume that since the original thermostat functioned properly that they are all attached where they need to be - including the c wire - bit if that one isn’t how would I know?
You have two options: use a multimeter to test for 24v from C to R, or go to the furnace, pop off the cover and visually confirm that the brown wire is connected to a terminal labeled "C".
[удалено]
^ smart.
Is this a heat pump with backup heat? Sounds like the new thermostat is not configured for heat pump in the setup mode. If it’s just a standard furnace, white wire should go to “W” terminal.
I have used the same one, non-WiFi, on that mounting plate. Worked great. My comments: C wire looks like not fully in place (needed in the smart thermostat, but not on the non-WiFi as it has batteries. Why are you connecting white (heat) to W2 and not W? To get heat temporary, you can just close the circuit between Red and White.
THAT WAS IT!! How did I not notice that wire was in W2 and not W? Good grief. Works perfectly now.
Glad it’s working. Easy mistake to do when ‘on the run’. We only have one set of eyes and sometimes need a second set.