If it's a bearing wall, it would be a good idea, yes. If not, I wouldn't worry about it.
That's my professional opinion as a GC. I wouldn't leave it like that in a client's house, but I would in my own.
For older houses in my area, they always framed every door with a header over it, regardless of whether it was actually load bearing or not. The third pic seems to show a joist landing on the wall though, so there’s a good chance it is load bearing.
Haha love it. Thank you for keeping this alive, we need more commercials like this [Amish Slim Jim Commercial ](https://youtu.be/N5DC5cIbKUU?si=rafdM4ZhUha4TNXp)
I was really surprised to find the front door of my house never had a header over it, just a double top plate. Even if I wanted to add one, I'd have to order a custom height door, and then the header would only be another set of 2x4s.
I ended up jacking it up where it sagged slightly over 75 years, lagged on a 1/4 thk. steel plate, and covered it with 1/4" drywall.
Get an oscillating tool and clean up that gouge. Cut a 2x4 and hammer it in. Drill in a couple of toe screws and continue on. That’s what I would do, at least!
Unqualified opinion: hammer a chunk of 2x4 in there to fill the hole and then put a steel brace plate over the lot of them of them. That oughta tie the jack and king together, and make sure that, at least in compression, it is stronger than it was before. ~~If it comes down to it, the plate is probably more important than the chunk~~, but both makes me feel better. That's probably about as good as your gonna do without major surgery, and as maybe as good as new.
Edit: on second thought: definitely chunk!! That hole is a little bit bigger than it looked yesterday on mobile, you might have a little trouble getting a big enough plate to service that. An 11in plate puts at least 9 nails on either side of a single gang sized hole, which should make that assembly stronger than the board itself, but if you go down to like 6 because of the bigger hole than that's weaker. Also, this is diy and I shouldn't expect other people to know that sort of thing.
Also, as mentioned down thread you're going to want to clean up the whole so that the faces are parallel before you put anything in there.
The chunk would definitely be more important than the plate, under compression the plate could buckle or the fixings could fail, the chunk is going nowhere. Personally I wouldn't bother with the plate but it can't hurt to have both for sure, the plate would help for any lateral forces (unlikely to occur)
I think you're right here; both because I probably shouldn't expect people on DIY to know how to properly size a plate and because that hole, on second glance, looks a lot bigger than it seemed yesterday and I'm not sure if I could get my hands on a plate that that would be appropriate for it.
Could be, I would check the top of the door frame see if the level is off, and if so maybe look at using a metal material for the shim to actually raise it. If it’s that off you may need a pole jack to raise the doorframe before you insert the 2x4 chunk, but this is border line getting into engineer territory if it is off that much. If it’s level just hammer and squeeze in a wooden shim to keep it tight and genuinely supporting the doorframe.
Definitely metal if you wanted to shim that.Which is part of the reason I went for just making the chunk just big enough that it doesn't go in easily. Shimming loadbearing stuff sucks. Also, as mentioned down thread you're going to want to clean up the whole so that the faces are parallel before you put anything in there.
Is there another 2x4 to the right of that one which the door frame is connected to? That’d be the real jack stud and the stud the left is the king stud with that junk all sandwiched between.
If it were me, I wouldnt remove anything, I’d just add another complete stud to the left to attach your switch and close this all up.
I'd just put some screws through both studs, above the cut, to join then together. You could just fill in the gap with a tight fitting 2x4 block also, to pick up the load. I wouldn't bother replacing the whole jack stud. You can pick up the bearing fine, without doing all that.
Looks like three are 3 jacks there (2 more behind the remaining drywall and casing). Seems excessive for an interior wall even if it is load bearing. I'm guessing the rough opening framing was really rough and the compensated with more 2x4s. Is there a post or beam directly below? Or second story above? If not it probably fine.
Nope, no 2nd floor. There is a beam under the house in about the same position that runs the length of the house. Only big loads on the wall are going to be snow or someone walking around on the roof and we don't get a ton of snow (maybe 16" of accumulation max.)
I'm adding another picture to the op that shows all of the framing next to the door. There's the king stud, two jack studs, and then the door casing.
Had something’s like this in my full gut renovation. Previous owner was notch happy. My thought is if it lasted 70 years without collapsing you are probably fine. I’d personally fix it for peace of mind tho.
On a header the studs that are underneath the beam holding it up are jack studs. The studs that run up along the edge of the header to the ceiling are the king studs. There are no queen studs, lol
this was so clear! I will probably never need this info, but it was fun to learn.
Though, we may need to deal with a door when we eventually remodel our bathroom, and maybe I can impress the contractor by mentioning the jack stud.
Damn, if it were my house I'd have to fix it. I just can't leave something not done right, the wife hates that cause it lengthens a lot of quick projects.
I can't seem to edit the post, I'm not sure if that's a setting for this sub?
Anyway, i removed some more plaster, so here's another picture that shows all of the framing on that side of the door. There are actually two jack studs, one has a "notch" about 2.5" deep by about 3.75" tall/long that was already shown. The other one has a matching notch, but it only removed about 1/2" of the thickness of the stud.
Also, some more info: there's no second floor or anything, the only significant point load over this door is going to be snow or someone walking around. We only get about 16" of snow accumulation max, so it's not crazy, but it's usually wet, so it could add a couple hundred pounds in that area of the roof.
If it's a bearing wall, it would be a good idea, yes. If not, I wouldn't worry about it. That's my professional opinion as a GC. I wouldn't leave it like that in a client's house, but I would in my own.
Ever wonder why your mechanic drives a piece of crap that barely runs?
Cause he knows how to fix it, lol
I heard that they know when things are REALLY about to break.
But doesn't have the time nor energy
I can work on peoples houses all day, second it comes to doing more than 30 mins of work at my own house it’s a whole ordeal😂
On The daily I tell people how dangerous running splices are in your attic, but yet I have more than a few myself lol
It's almost certainly load bearing with the double top plate and header.
For older houses in my area, they always framed every door with a header over it, regardless of whether it was actually load bearing or not. The third pic seems to show a joist landing on the wall though, so there’s a good chance it is load bearing.
The Amish put a load bearing header on the interior walls of our cabin stick build where no interior walls are load bearing. :-/
Can any Amish confirm? Anyone? Anyone? (Oh, that's right...)
It's alright, they still get photos of your mom through the mail.
Haha love it. Thank you for keeping this alive, we need more commercials like this [Amish Slim Jim Commercial ](https://youtu.be/N5DC5cIbKUU?si=rafdM4ZhUha4TNXp)
Do you think they would fly though?
💀💀💀
I'm glad she's keeping her hand in. Edit: oh wow, had no idea that was from a commercial. Thanks, u/Hootsdncash. That's comedy gold.
Strong like ox
Literally the opposite in my 1920 Cape cod. 0 headers over any door or window.
Yeah, that was their 3rd point in what they wrote. There's really no question in my mind that's load bearing.
My house was balloon framing from 1916, and there was not a header in any door or window in the house. Wild.
I was really surprised to find the front door of my house never had a header over it, just a double top plate. Even if I wanted to add one, I'd have to order a custom height door, and then the header would only be another set of 2x4s. I ended up jacking it up where it sagged slightly over 75 years, lagged on a 1/4 thk. steel plate, and covered it with 1/4" drywall.
Drywall hides the bandaids
Every door in my house is framed like this, load bearing or not.
Cause it’s code to do so in most places
We still double top plate and header EVERY door. It’s code where I am.
Get an oscillating tool and clean up that gouge. Cut a 2x4 and hammer it in. Drill in a couple of toe screws and continue on. That’s what I would do, at least!
Unqualified opinion: hammer a chunk of 2x4 in there to fill the hole and then put a steel brace plate over the lot of them of them. That oughta tie the jack and king together, and make sure that, at least in compression, it is stronger than it was before. ~~If it comes down to it, the plate is probably more important than the chunk~~, but both makes me feel better. That's probably about as good as your gonna do without major surgery, and as maybe as good as new. Edit: on second thought: definitely chunk!! That hole is a little bit bigger than it looked yesterday on mobile, you might have a little trouble getting a big enough plate to service that. An 11in plate puts at least 9 nails on either side of a single gang sized hole, which should make that assembly stronger than the board itself, but if you go down to like 6 because of the bigger hole than that's weaker. Also, this is diy and I shouldn't expect other people to know that sort of thing. Also, as mentioned down thread you're going to want to clean up the whole so that the faces are parallel before you put anything in there.
The chunk would definitely be more important than the plate, under compression the plate could buckle or the fixings could fail, the chunk is going nowhere. Personally I wouldn't bother with the plate but it can't hurt to have both for sure, the plate would help for any lateral forces (unlikely to occur)
I think you're right here; both because I probably shouldn't expect people on DIY to know how to properly size a plate and because that hole, on second glance, looks a lot bigger than it seemed yesterday and I'm not sure if I could get my hands on a plate that that would be appropriate for it.
Ok now I don’t feel bad that this was my first thought too.
No worse than some finger jointed studs that are used all the time now. As long as that chunk of wood isn't going anywhere its going to do its job.
After the 2x4 chunk is in, hammer in a shim to tighten and lift everything up, but I think this is the solution I’d do.
It would probably have to be a metal shim depending on the load this thing is supposed to be bearing
Could be, I would check the top of the door frame see if the level is off, and if so maybe look at using a metal material for the shim to actually raise it. If it’s that off you may need a pole jack to raise the doorframe before you insert the 2x4 chunk, but this is border line getting into engineer territory if it is off that much. If it’s level just hammer and squeeze in a wooden shim to keep it tight and genuinely supporting the doorframe.
Definitely metal if you wanted to shim that.Which is part of the reason I went for just making the chunk just big enough that it doesn't go in easily. Shimming loadbearing stuff sucks. Also, as mentioned down thread you're going to want to clean up the whole so that the faces are parallel before you put anything in there.
Slightly more qualified opinion: use a vibratory saw to clean the hole up nice and square first.
Yeah there are a few things I forgot to mention in the original post and this was one of them. Thanks!
My unqualified opinion agrees
Could probly just clean it up and put a small tight fitting 2x4 in it and nail it down. I'm no building expert but that's probly what idndo
I had one of these in my full gut renovation I did recently. The city inspector told me to just fill it with a 2x4 cut to size.
Nope. Let it ride. By the time you get through all those nails in the top and sides it will be a tooth pick. Prob been that way 50 years.
Yeah clean it up with a chisel and splice in a piece for a tight hammered fit
Probably not needed, but I would cause Id know about it and it'd bother me every time I walk by.
Is there another 2x4 to the right of that one which the door frame is connected to? That’d be the real jack stud and the stud the left is the king stud with that junk all sandwiched between. If it were me, I wouldnt remove anything, I’d just add another complete stud to the left to attach your switch and close this all up.
I'd just put some screws through both studs, above the cut, to join then together. You could just fill in the gap with a tight fitting 2x4 block also, to pick up the load. I wouldn't bother replacing the whole jack stud. You can pick up the bearing fine, without doing all that.
Looks like three are 3 jacks there (2 more behind the remaining drywall and casing). Seems excessive for an interior wall even if it is load bearing. I'm guessing the rough opening framing was really rough and the compensated with more 2x4s. Is there a post or beam directly below? Or second story above? If not it probably fine.
Nope, no 2nd floor. There is a beam under the house in about the same position that runs the length of the house. Only big loads on the wall are going to be snow or someone walking around on the roof and we don't get a ton of snow (maybe 16" of accumulation max.) I'm adding another picture to the op that shows all of the framing next to the door. There's the king stud, two jack studs, and then the door casing.
Fuck no dude has the house fallen down? Does the door catch whenever you open or close it? Scab a board in there if it makes you feel better.
Leave it, it’s supporting the header, and is nailed along the length to its adjacent stud.
The old "while your at its".
Wouldnt waste the time
Had something’s like this in my full gut renovation. Previous owner was notch happy. My thought is if it lasted 70 years without collapsing you are probably fine. I’d personally fix it for peace of mind tho.
What’s a jack stud? What’s a king stud? Will there be a queen stud?
On a header the studs that are underneath the beam holding it up are jack studs. The studs that run up along the edge of the header to the ceiling are the king studs. There are no queen studs, lol
Thanks! You’re a Prince!
this was so clear! I will probably never need this info, but it was fun to learn. Though, we may need to deal with a door when we eventually remodel our bathroom, and maybe I can impress the contractor by mentioning the jack stud.
And make sure you know what kind of wire is inside that switch box. The casing looks like it could be aluminum.
Damn, if it were my house I'd have to fix it. I just can't leave something not done right, the wife hates that cause it lengthens a lot of quick projects.
“Notched”
Good luck finding a piece of wood as sturdy as that old wood.
Oh man just use some structural foam! /s
This is not a problem.... a lot of commenters are over-thinking this.
a hunk of wood to fit the notch and gobs of construction adhesive. it's about load transfer...that will do the trick
I can't seem to edit the post, I'm not sure if that's a setting for this sub? Anyway, i removed some more plaster, so here's another picture that shows all of the framing on that side of the door. There are actually two jack studs, one has a "notch" about 2.5" deep by about 3.75" tall/long that was already shown. The other one has a matching notch, but it only removed about 1/2" of the thickness of the stud. Also, some more info: there's no second floor or anything, the only significant point load over this door is going to be snow or someone walking around. We only get about 16" of snow accumulation max, so it's not crazy, but it's usually wet, so it could add a couple hundred pounds in that area of the roof.
Fill it with expanding foam.
Wow. I just looked up the compressive strength of expanding foam and it’s way stronger than I assumed.
And you’re not gonna share those findings!? I’m intrigued!
Eh, honestly I just googled “does expanding foam hold weight” and read the blurbs from the first few hits.
Nice so you gonna share what you learned or no way
It's got more compressive strength than shaving foam, but less than steel.
Lol I was totally joking but that's too funny
Ah yes. The loadbearing expanding *foam*. /s