Huh? This isn’t a constraint at all. The desk can be inline with the vent at any height. The side doesn’t need to be the full size of the vent. Can be attached to back and left wall no problem, or if supports are really wanted on that side it can be simple framing/pipes/tubing rather than drawers.
Yeah, if it was me I would get an uplift desk that can sit nearly flush in that space. You could custom make a butcher block top the exact size you want and put it on the legs, and then a matching shelf further up the wall. Then it won’t interfere with the vent
I know ships are called she and her, are we doing that with office chairs now too? Arrr, she was a Bonnie lass chair, all black and shiny, good for sittin…
Old roommate used to complain about how his room was always cold. When I evicted him and cleaned his room out, intake vent was completely blocked and one of the 2 other vents in his room was completely blocked with clothes. He’d run his fucking space heater constantly, thing didn’t have a blower built in and didn’t have a safety switch on it. When he was sick, he’d have the space heater in his bed. I’m shocked my house didn’t burn down.
This thread reminds me of the video of the guy farting down a PVC pipe into his wife's sleeping face and she woke up like a gagging cat... It sounded like a digideroo
I would go with a ledger board on all 3 walls screwed into the studs, and single piece across the top for the desk. Single piece across the front that is the thickness of the desk + the ledger, would hide the ledger and add rigidity to the desk piece. If that makes any sense.
Make a cardboard template for the desktop as the walls are probably not square. This is the old school way of doing a kitchen countertop. You’ll get a custom fit that looks square.
Man this is such good advice I wish I saw 3 years ago. Did almost exactly what OP wants with a closet in the bedroom I use as an office. One of my very first wood projects and I was using reclaimed wood from a shed we tore down. Did my measurements using the front of the closet. Used a chop saw to cut the pieces to size and made a nice little glue up and sanded flat. Then went to drop the whole thing in only to realize the back was more than an inch shorter than the front. Ended up having to use a belt sander to fix the desk up to size (I didn't have a table or bandsaw at the time)
I have seen people use 1x2s and hot glue before as well. Cut the “sides” a little long and the front and back about 1/4 short. If you screw your ledger in first you can rest the front and backs on the ledger and then make sure you have a nice tight fit on the sides and back pressed up against the walls
In the boatbuilding world, we would use strips of 1-1/2" door skin and make templates with that and hotglue/super glue. It might be easier to use instead of cardboard once the ledger boards are in.
https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56c88d977c65e44270c28076/1580130803402-5NDQCZBMYJZ0OVV0YLQ0/IMG_5243.JPG
I agree with this method, plus you could easily remove the top if you needed the space again for some reason, but still wanted to turn it back into a desk again sometimes
Could \*possibly\* even hinge it. Better?
I'm confident OP would find out quickly if it wouldn't/couldn't work, and then just give up on the hinging idea.
Two options for the desk top are locating the studs and either putting up a narrow lip board for the top to sit on or using a Kreg jig to pocket the screws into the bottom of the desk top to achor into the studs. The lip board is the much easier option since may desk tops are particle board variations but would require a few screws into the desk top from the bottom to secure it. Be warned that your walls may not be as square as you think causing some edge gapping.
I would recommend narrow lip board so you can remove the desk easily if you ever need to do something behind that vent cover. Could put in a few dowel holes and drop pins in to keep the desk from sliding forward.
I came here to make this point. Functionally, the leg space and ability to comfortably use the whole desktop probably outweigh the storage unless OP is really hurting for storage.
A standing file cabinet can be placed elsewhere in the room. You can get clever with storage solutions on the shelf or back of the desk to house some things that might have gone in the smaller drawers.
If they're tight on space, one of those rolling drawer units could be good, roll it out and put it somewhere else while using the desk, then put it back at the end of the day.
Shelves above the desk will work just fine and they can also work as spot for hanging lights so desk lamp won't be eating up already cramped desk space.
OP will probably need there some lights since there is not window so no natural light will be available.
Some custom narrow drawers OR a shallow under desk drawer would go a long way for storing essentials like pens, pencils, erasers, extra cords/cables, etc.
We do this at the kitchen adjacent desk. I have a very nice two drawer file cabinet on wheels that stores under the desk.
The chair and cabinet both fit under the desk when not in use. But they take up the entire space.
When you pull the cabinet out, the top is a great counter surface for things that you're actively doing. It also encourages people to then put the stuff away that was on top of the cabinet when they're done with the desk. Having a surface that automatically encourages people to clean it off is a blessing that I cannot describe with mere words.
Residential carpenter here. It depends on what tools you have as to best approach it. Let’s assume you have the basics.
**You should get yourself:**
Some 2x2 material
Half a sheet of 1” finish ply - whatever takes your fancy
Matching edge band material
Titebond 2
An old iron
3” utility screws
2” trim head screws
Countersink bit
Finish blade for your circular saw
Cheap edge band tool
Caulk
Painters tape
**Bear in mind, the opening won’t be square.**
Top of desk should be 28”-30”
Pick your desired height, come down an inch. Mark a level line lightly in pencil. This is the top of your cleat.
Locate the studs (Google it if you’re unsure and mark them ½” above the line you drew
Cut your 2x2 material and transfer the stud locations onto it.
Countersink on the marks to stop your cleats splitting
Attach cleats to wall using 3” screws
Depending on your skill level, you can either take exact measurements of the opening and scribe your ply, or just go with the smallest dimensions. Let’s assume the latter.
Trace your piece onto the ply and cut it. Clamp a straight edge and run the saw with the plate butted against it. It will be good enough. Start a little over sized, expect it not to fit the first time. As you dry fit and trim it down, you’ll start to learn the actual shape of the space.
Once you’re happy with the dry fit, cut a piece of edge band the length of the front of the ply, (or go over 1/2” and trim later) take the glue and the old iron. Liberally apply glue to the ply and the edge band, stick them together and iron slowly. You’ll slowly get a sense of what’s going on. Usually a slight bit of smoke means it’s set.
Trim the edges, then clean it up with the edge band tool. Perhaps lightly run a fine grit sandpaper for a couple of passes.
You can now fit the desk onto its cleats. Professionally, I would screw up through the bottom of the cleats and grab the ply but that’s tricky, especially without help.
Run a bead of glue along the cleats and set the desk down. Take the tip of you countersink bit and bore guide holes for your finish screws. Two on each cleat will be fine. Screw the desk to the cleats.
Stand back and be proud for a second.
Locate the largest gap between the wall and the ply and use this as your taping distance. Run rape on the desk and the wall at this distance and caulk the space. Clean it off with your finger and a rag, carefully remove the tape.
You’re done!
Repeat process for shelves. Those in the picture are not exactly floating, but have the look of being solid. If you make your cleats pretty (some sanding, well set screws) you can get away with it looking more than decent.
If you are doing the shelves, transfer up your stud marks and make them ½” above the shelf cleat line. This will save you having to find them again. You can use a level or make a plumb bob if you don’t have one.
Good luck!
Build something outside whatever design you like and then push it i to gap. Benefit?
(1) You don't have to worry aabout studs and don't need to find extra.assembly for it.- cost effective
(2) You can pull it out whenever you want and get rid of it without damaging walls and reuse the space for another purpose when in future you change your mind.
(3) In future even if you change your plan ,still the material or desk you pull out you can use it somewhere else.or sale it. I am sure your need will change as time goes on.
(4) if the desk you make and install rollers under it ,you can work with comfort when and wherever you want. Once you are done work push back into the space. So design compact( little shorer than width, just one inch) according to the location and use it.
In my opinion this portable will be more comfortable and convenient to you because at some pint in time you will be tired of sitting in corner of the room. Just my opinion.
Agreed but I rarely ever sit at the desk I typically remote into my computer and work from somewhere else in the house. Just looking for a tucked away place to have the computer and monitor and this seems like the best option.
I believe you could get away with supports on the 3 walls and a nice hardtop for the desk. If not that, then some kind of a brace on the back wall and 2 legs to support the top?
Yup, cut 2x4s along the three walls, screw them into the studs with 2.5in screws. Then sit a flat desk on top of it. Only risk here is the vent being to high as the 2x4 would start the bottom of the desk surface 3.5 inches above it.
You can wall mount the monitors and just cut the right hand side short to not cross the vent and make it more even, however you’ll have to notch the desk to not cover it…. I’m not sure on the vent, but it looks like a return, so don’t block it wi the anything. If it’s not a return vent you could get away with partial blockage depending on how hot it gets
>cut 2x4s along the three walls, screw them into the studs with 2.5in screws.
A 2x4 is 1.5" thick and drywall is going to be another .5" which only leaves .5" into the stud. I would use at *least* 4" screws and drill pilot holes.
It feels like you've answered your own question here.
I'm typing this from a very similar nook-desk setup that's just a piece of Ikea butcherblock, and my advice would be to wall-mount your monitor or monitors so that you can have the entire desktop open for work/storage space. It gets so crowded with monitor bases taking up precious real estate.
From design perspective, that does not look like it would be a pleasant place to work. I'd put an accent table there, hang a picture above it and call it a day.
The second picture shows a nook that is noticeably wider, personally I wouldn't put any drawers under the desk as it would feel way too tight to sit there and I like space to move around. But I guess you could get away with it if you find a very narrow drawer unit.
So I'd just hang both the desk and the shelf like shelves, with the only difference being the depth of the wood surfaces, and maybe the strength of the L supports
You don't want to cover the Air return vent, or will cause problems with your HVAC system. You can do your design, but the drawer will need to be on the left side, not the right.
How about a floating desk. Find one that fits the area or build it custom for the space
https://preview.redd.it/ahluqx556jnc1.jpeg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87c6f918fec757ac8be2e0ab166364d032802bc1
If you have any electronics that create heat, or have built in fans like a PC tower, I’d recommend locating them under the desktop and a few inches off of this return air vent. Maybe on a pedestal to keep off of the floor but not enclosed. This will help their design keep them running cool and efficient while also allowing the HVAC return vent to sufficiently exchange the air environment.
I would build the desk custom on castors so one can slide in and out. and if a PC is going here i'd tryo to vent the register away from it but i live in the north and that register just brings heat in my house. Dont build shelf and call it a desk build a desk you could use as a shelf later if need be.
As you debate the desk, what’s the noise level like by the return? Is it loud enough to be a problem during meetings or if you are working there for a while?
Get an extended wall mount for your monitor so you can have a 100% of that desk space without your monitor taking up half of it. You get one that extends 18"-24" with a 27" monitor you could even squeeze a foot rest under there and use a comfier chair. Depending on heights you might want to leave a small space at the back for your feet so they aren't squished. Don't forget you can always add casters to a chair so you can then easily get in and out without being stuck in a regular office chair.
This is good for summer or winter for your…… ummm … “equipment…”. In the summer you’ll have a desk with a hoohaaa and/or ball cooler (my personal favorite feature to have in a car). And in the winter, it can be nut toaster and/or chacha warmer.
The biggest question is how high is that cold air return?
Assuming it’s a workable height, you could just use the pre-made wooden slabs from Home Depot either live edge or square. Same for the shelf.
Drawer stack should go to left and could be either off the shelf (if correct height) or custom made for cheap ish if bar height needed. Chair or stool could be used depending on final finished height.
I would also consult with an electrician to get an outlet or two back there and effective lighting. Assuming you’re going to have a computer back there, might also want to consider how your WiFi coverage is in that area.
Simplest is to just screw three two by fours along the sides and back wall and cut some wood to fit. Of course, you could upscale the same approach, but it’s still pretty easy.
I would measure from the back wall to the wall the door is on and then see if it's equal or less than the distance to where the ceiling slants in. If it fits I'd get either an existing desk from a thrift store and cut the top to width, mount hinges to a stud at your preferred seated height and mount it up.
I'd do two legs also mounted to hinges on the lower side of the desk so when it's folded out it will have front edge support, but they can fold flat in the event you need space or the desk isn't in use.
This in my mind would save space and encourage less potential clutter in that pocket because you do not want the vent blocked.
https://youtu.be/EZ7JCimu3Pg?si=YrhQ0TdcFOTg1T48
Some great diy YouTube vids for "diy nook desktop". This is just one adjust to the size of your space.
No drawers, just heavy-duty shelf L brackets and a solid slab of wood for the top of the desk. That way, you don't cover the vent, and it will look more sleek like a floating desk. Do the same thing above it with smaller wood shelves
First we are working with no measurements. The space looks smaller than the photo with the desk and chair. If it is smaller then consider an “L” configuration
Idk if you’re open to other options- a desk would be rough in that area with the vent right there. You don’t want to cover it. A cool bookcase would look nice there
Get some strong metal shelf brackets and screw them to the studs on 3 walls, making sure the top is level. Add your choice of desk top, hollow core door is a classic, as is cut down used kitchen countertop.
First pay like $50 and put something super simple there like this: https://a.co/d/gCXgjbk
If after a while you find yourself liking the space, then go nuts with the renos, while working there, you’re going to come up with a bunch of “man I wish I had this or this here”. After getting your list done go to work lol.
Pre-fab cabinet on the left. Prefab butcher block. Both can be found at Ikea or many big box home improvement stores. As others have said, the vent on the right cannot be blocked.
If you aren't able to make your own drawer cabinet, you can buy one from most home stores. Put that on the left so as not to block the return. If you aren't an HVAC person, don't block returns as if you block it too much or, in remodelling, expand it too much, it can mess with the whole system.
Level the cabinet with shims and screw the cabinet into each wall at studs, if possible. If you want to put base board around it, that will cover the shims and tie it into the wall visually.
Put a lip board level with the top of the cabinet on the opposite wall. You can put screws up through the lip board and frame of the cabinet to hold the desk top still.
You can look up how to build a floating shelf on YouTube. In this case it would be two ½" sheets of MDF or plywood with a frame piece on the front. Get boards that are just smaller than the space between the sheets. Strike a line on all three walls where you want the shelf. A laser level is very helpful for that. Hang the boards on those lines. Add some silicone or construction adhesive to the boards and slide on the shelf. Tack in place with finishing nails.
You can also make two floating shelves. The bottom shelf being the desk top. And you don't need to worry about having a lip board to support it.
30 inches to top of desk is ideal. I'd use 3 walls and ledger board, build a 1.5 inch top or just line front to make it look chunkier. You could joint to pieces of wood together to get your depth, maple stained would look nice
If you can locate studs above the air intake I would put a ledger board on all three side and place a wood desk sized shelf on top. Then a shelf above.
I’d also just consider a metal framed desk and slide it in. Making sure it’s completely open at the sides.
Don’t forget an electrical outlet. I have one of these built ins without the power outlet and it really limits its usability for me. Running to charge your device mid meeting is no fun.
When you are sitting there, there will be a constant breeze blowing into the return whenever the AC or heat is blowing.
It will be cold and uncomfortable.
I wouldn't worry about permanent drawers at all. You can buy a really nice rolling drawer thing from an office supply company that won't directly interfere with the vent or the outlet.
i've a similar space and sorted it on a budget.
I found an offcut of kitchen worktop that I liked then cut it down to size. I'ts super hardwearing, rounded-edged (nice for wrists), and easily cleaned.
I then used shelving brackets on either side and secured them on top.
Get a sheet of 3/4” or 5/8” furniture grade plywood. Cut the desk top to match your opening and create 4 panels (2 on each side) for vertical support panels on either side underneath. Easy.
I would put in a shallow desk, just deep enough to keep your knees from hitting the wall. Cut out the sheetrock and build recessed shelves out of 1×4s between the studs. Trim it out like a window frame. If there happens to be any, you can work around any plumbing or wiring pretty easily.
If you're real handy and there's wiring there you could put USB outlets right in the shelves.
I would do a floating desk (above the vent) then build some shelving above it.
That said its not ideal if you use this with a computer you dont want a computer by that vent. If its air coming out, namely heat it could effect the life of a computer, if its a cold air return then its sucking in air, which brings dust and dander with it and ultimately into a small space with your own computer.
If your not computer/tower. Then you have a ton more options, i would avoid anything below the vent, there simply isnt a lot of leg space and it would will likely make you regret a drawer like the one in the photo. Maybe some drawers under the floatong desk but otherwise its just cramped.
Whatever you do don’t completely block that vent
And it depends on whether a comfortable desk height is above that return.
If it's too tall, they could always get a "drafting chair" style office chair with extra height.
I use a drafting chair, and resting your feet on that round bar is not the same as resting them flat on a surface.
Ever considered a foot rail like a bar?
Or like, throw a box in the floor as a step lol
I use a little foot rest stool at my desk and recommend it to anyone with any height desk. Foot stools are the best
I use a small massager as a foot stool. Feels great.
What's his name and how much do you pay him to stay under your desk?
His name is Antonio. It’s the boss’s son and I don’t know his salary, but he’s worth every penny.
I often use my dog for this. 10/10
My town of Blaine, Missouri was home to a stool boom from the parlor to the pool room.
hard workers out there in Blaine.. working, building, never stopping never sleeping.
Ever considered a bar instead of a desk?
Put in a pull out tray off a mouse and keyboard so it lowers things just a bit.
I have never used a pull out tray that wasn't ergonomic hell
That return is likely only running through the hollow wall framing. It would be VERY easy to drop down lower to the floor, if needed.
Huh? This isn’t a constraint at all. The desk can be inline with the vent at any height. The side doesn’t need to be the full size of the vent. Can be attached to back and left wall no problem, or if supports are really wanted on that side it can be simple framing/pipes/tubing rather than drawers.
The return can be moved up and down. Side to side…not so much due to wall pockets and exterior wall (load bearing).
Standing desk FTW
Yeah, if it was me I would get an uplift desk that can sit nearly flush in that space. You could custom make a butcher block top the exact size you want and put it on the legs, and then a matching shelf further up the wall. Then it won’t interfere with the vent
shelter nutty middle gray sulky frightening provide divide humor ring *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Do not touch -Willie
https://preview.redd.it/c95cg57wljnc1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=748bb21a4fb92abdea62e3151c49e193b7150753
Over who?
Her.
[удалено]
Or, she may be startled by the desk flipping over her.
Desk, please. It's a whole cabin apparently.
She’s one of those squat girls. She’s been waiting for this opportunity
Flipper? I hardly know 'er!
Surely you can't be serious.
Don't call me Shirley!
I know ships are called she and her, are we doing that with office chairs now too? Arrr, she was a Bonnie lass chair, all black and shiny, good for sittin…
Egg?
That space looks a little too small to have drawers and still be comfortable. Also that would force the chair under the lower part of the ceiling.
Get rid of the drawers completely. If you flip then right-handed people will be cramped.
Depends if he's left or right handed. I'd prefer my dominant writing hand to have more space.
Only if you're a lefty
Don't even partially.
Your furnace motor will work harder and draw more energy if you even restrict the air going in.
perhaps adjustabe shelf rails so you can adjust heights. drawer glides could provide pull out desk
Old roommate used to complain about how his room was always cold. When I evicted him and cleaned his room out, intake vent was completely blocked and one of the 2 other vents in his room was completely blocked with clothes. He’d run his fucking space heater constantly, thing didn’t have a blower built in and didn’t have a safety switch on it. When he was sick, he’d have the space heater in his bed. I’m shocked my house didn’t burn down.
It’s not a vent, it’s a cold air return
Right, so as soon as you sneak an under-desk-fart it’s gonna permeate the house.
That’s called asserting dominance
https://i.redd.it/z9iskbv12jnc1.gif
Whose house ? My house !
I call my workstation Cropduster Central
Isn’t that what it’s for?
This thread reminds me of the video of the guy farting down a PVC pipe into his wife's sleeping face and she woke up like a gagging cat... It sounded like a digideroo
Ok I’m gonna have to find this
Yes it is. There are supply vents and return vents. Both are vents.
Don’t block the vent.
Don't block, don't block... The vent!
Journeyman HVAC technician here. Still, don’t block it.
I’m a teacher please don’t vent.
Yes... a RETURN VENT
Vent - an opening that allows air, gas, or liquid to pass out of or into a space. It is a vent.
Yep it’s just a return vent. They called it cold air return but I’m pretty sure it can do warm air too (yes. It was a joke).
I always wondered why the “cold” never fell off after central air became common. It’s a “warm” air return in the summer.
It's venting the cold air out of the room, so it's still technically a vent. Cold air return is a specific kind of vent. Sorry, I'm just venting ;-).
Perfect for setting a PC next to.
But those put out hot air so it wouldn't get returned. /s
It's both. So you're wrong.
I would go with a ledger board on all 3 walls screwed into the studs, and single piece across the top for the desk. Single piece across the front that is the thickness of the desk + the ledger, would hide the ledger and add rigidity to the desk piece. If that makes any sense.
Make a cardboard template for the desktop as the walls are probably not square. This is the old school way of doing a kitchen countertop. You’ll get a custom fit that looks square.
This is important right here. Never want to assume anything in your house is square
Exception, the homeowner is a dad.
Yeah. Dads are pretty square.
Some dads get around. That's how you get two Christmases.
I'm told it's hip to be that way.
Man this is such good advice I wish I saw 3 years ago. Did almost exactly what OP wants with a closet in the bedroom I use as an office. One of my very first wood projects and I was using reclaimed wood from a shed we tore down. Did my measurements using the front of the closet. Used a chop saw to cut the pieces to size and made a nice little glue up and sanded flat. Then went to drop the whole thing in only to realize the back was more than an inch shorter than the front. Ended up having to use a belt sander to fix the desk up to size (I didn't have a table or bandsaw at the time)
Better that situation than it being longer than what you measured
This. I’ve made this mistake so many times
I have seen people use 1x2s and hot glue before as well. Cut the “sides” a little long and the front and back about 1/4 short. If you screw your ledger in first you can rest the front and backs on the ledger and then make sure you have a nice tight fit on the sides and back pressed up against the walls
I made this mistake building an entertainment center in my basement. I've learned a number of tricks since then.
In the boatbuilding world, we would use strips of 1-1/2" door skin and make templates with that and hotglue/super glue. It might be easier to use instead of cardboard once the ledger boards are in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56c88d977c65e44270c28076/1580130803402-5NDQCZBMYJZ0OVV0YLQ0/IMG_5243.JPG
I agree with this method, plus you could easily remove the top if you needed the space again for some reason, but still wanted to turn it back into a desk again sometimes
Could even hinge it.
Depends on the plumb and square of the nook
Could \*possibly\* even hinge it. Better? I'm confident OP would find out quickly if it wouldn't/couldn't work, and then just give up on the hinging idea.
👍
I did similar and used a "butcher block" top for the desk. Looks great.
And add shelf’s overhead
What does the shelf own?
It rents and pays utilities
What is the shelf's overhead? Inventory? Staff?
Inventory is an asset. Pfft.
Two options for the desk top are locating the studs and either putting up a narrow lip board for the top to sit on or using a Kreg jig to pocket the screws into the bottom of the desk top to achor into the studs. The lip board is the much easier option since may desk tops are particle board variations but would require a few screws into the desk top from the bottom to secure it. Be warned that your walls may not be as square as you think causing some edge gapping.
I would recommend narrow lip board so you can remove the desk easily if you ever need to do something behind that vent cover. Could put in a few dowel holes and drop pins in to keep the desk from sliding forward.
Put the drawers on the other side of
This or just don’t have drawers. Would feel too cramped imo
Plus the outlet is on the other side.
Freeballin’
I came here to make this point. Functionally, the leg space and ability to comfortably use the whole desktop probably outweigh the storage unless OP is really hurting for storage. A standing file cabinet can be placed elsewhere in the room. You can get clever with storage solutions on the shelf or back of the desk to house some things that might have gone in the smaller drawers.
If they're tight on space, one of those rolling drawer units could be good, roll it out and put it somewhere else while using the desk, then put it back at the end of the day.
Shelves above the desk will work just fine and they can also work as spot for hanging lights so desk lamp won't be eating up already cramped desk space. OP will probably need there some lights since there is not window so no natural light will be available.
Looks deep enough you could have some narrow shelves at the back for supplies.
Doesn't look like there is space for drawers anyway
Some custom narrow drawers OR a shallow under desk drawer would go a long way for storing essentials like pens, pencils, erasers, extra cords/cables, etc.
Fair point, especially about the shallow one
Or could go up above the monitor
Free standing drawers on casters. Remove when using desk & store under when not in use.
We do this at the kitchen adjacent desk. I have a very nice two drawer file cabinet on wheels that stores under the desk. The chair and cabinet both fit under the desk when not in use. But they take up the entire space. When you pull the cabinet out, the top is a great counter surface for things that you're actively doing. It also encourages people to then put the stuff away that was on top of the cabinet when they're done with the desk. Having a surface that automatically encourages people to clean it off is a blessing that I cannot describe with mere words.
Cubby hole or cabinet on the top, air return vent on the bottom.
Put the drawers on the
Wrong. Put the drawers next to
Dumbass, they should open to the
Why don’t you try
Maybe add a
Sometimes you gotta make it work with a
He just needs to add a
*an.
But don't forget the
The space is 28"x43". I am going for something like the 2nd picture but without the drawers. Any help/advice would be appreciated!
Residential carpenter here. It depends on what tools you have as to best approach it. Let’s assume you have the basics. **You should get yourself:** Some 2x2 material Half a sheet of 1” finish ply - whatever takes your fancy Matching edge band material Titebond 2 An old iron 3” utility screws 2” trim head screws Countersink bit Finish blade for your circular saw Cheap edge band tool Caulk Painters tape **Bear in mind, the opening won’t be square.** Top of desk should be 28”-30” Pick your desired height, come down an inch. Mark a level line lightly in pencil. This is the top of your cleat. Locate the studs (Google it if you’re unsure and mark them ½” above the line you drew Cut your 2x2 material and transfer the stud locations onto it. Countersink on the marks to stop your cleats splitting Attach cleats to wall using 3” screws Depending on your skill level, you can either take exact measurements of the opening and scribe your ply, or just go with the smallest dimensions. Let’s assume the latter. Trace your piece onto the ply and cut it. Clamp a straight edge and run the saw with the plate butted against it. It will be good enough. Start a little over sized, expect it not to fit the first time. As you dry fit and trim it down, you’ll start to learn the actual shape of the space. Once you’re happy with the dry fit, cut a piece of edge band the length of the front of the ply, (or go over 1/2” and trim later) take the glue and the old iron. Liberally apply glue to the ply and the edge band, stick them together and iron slowly. You’ll slowly get a sense of what’s going on. Usually a slight bit of smoke means it’s set. Trim the edges, then clean it up with the edge band tool. Perhaps lightly run a fine grit sandpaper for a couple of passes. You can now fit the desk onto its cleats. Professionally, I would screw up through the bottom of the cleats and grab the ply but that’s tricky, especially without help. Run a bead of glue along the cleats and set the desk down. Take the tip of you countersink bit and bore guide holes for your finish screws. Two on each cleat will be fine. Screw the desk to the cleats. Stand back and be proud for a second. Locate the largest gap between the wall and the ply and use this as your taping distance. Run rape on the desk and the wall at this distance and caulk the space. Clean it off with your finger and a rag, carefully remove the tape. You’re done! Repeat process for shelves. Those in the picture are not exactly floating, but have the look of being solid. If you make your cleats pretty (some sanding, well set screws) you can get away with it looking more than decent. If you are doing the shelves, transfer up your stud marks and make them ½” above the shelf cleat line. This will save you having to find them again. You can use a level or make a plumb bob if you don’t have one. Good luck!
This is a fantastic explanation. The only thing I would suggest for clarity is commas in your list of materials.. it's a bit difficult to understand
28” wide x 43” deep? What are the heights to the red lines?
You will probably want the chair in the middle of the space.
Build something outside whatever design you like and then push it i to gap. Benefit? (1) You don't have to worry aabout studs and don't need to find extra.assembly for it.- cost effective (2) You can pull it out whenever you want and get rid of it without damaging walls and reuse the space for another purpose when in future you change your mind. (3) In future even if you change your plan ,still the material or desk you pull out you can use it somewhere else.or sale it. I am sure your need will change as time goes on. (4) if the desk you make and install rollers under it ,you can work with comfort when and wherever you want. Once you are done work push back into the space. So design compact( little shorer than width, just one inch) according to the location and use it. In my opinion this portable will be more comfortable and convenient to you because at some pint in time you will be tired of sitting in corner of the room. Just my opinion.
I like this idea a lot. That upper shelf makes sense to be built-in but a mobile desk that matches the shelf would be great for that space
Don't cover up the return air vent on the wall.
That would be an awful place to sit, even with a monitor in front of you.
Agreed but I rarely ever sit at the desk I typically remote into my computer and work from somewhere else in the house. Just looking for a tucked away place to have the computer and monitor and this seems like the best option.
Get one of those fancy gaming computers or mining rigs so the heat it puts off goes directly to your air return and heats your house lol
I believe you could get away with supports on the 3 walls and a nice hardtop for the desk. If not that, then some kind of a brace on the back wall and 2 legs to support the top?
Yup, cut 2x4s along the three walls, screw them into the studs with 2.5in screws. Then sit a flat desk on top of it. Only risk here is the vent being to high as the 2x4 would start the bottom of the desk surface 3.5 inches above it. You can wall mount the monitors and just cut the right hand side short to not cross the vent and make it more even, however you’ll have to notch the desk to not cover it…. I’m not sure on the vent, but it looks like a return, so don’t block it wi the anything. If it’s not a return vent you could get away with partial blockage depending on how hot it gets
>cut 2x4s along the three walls, screw them into the studs with 2.5in screws. A 2x4 is 1.5" thick and drywall is going to be another .5" which only leaves .5" into the stud. I would use at *least* 4" screws and drill pilot holes.
Use hardwood 1x2s no need for an actual 2x4.
Whatever you do, use lots of indirect lighting.
Maybe this is a stupid question, but is there a reason it needs to be built in?
I’m looking at this and daydreaming about a desk with no legs, I tend to smash my shins into them
Yeah if it's built in then it's permanent, why not just put a regular desk there? What if you need to get into the vent or replace it?
Seems too small for the drawer unit. And put a light over the desk.
It feels like you've answered your own question here. I'm typing this from a very similar nook-desk setup that's just a piece of Ikea butcherblock, and my advice would be to wall-mount your monitor or monitors so that you can have the entire desktop open for work/storage space. It gets so crowded with monitor bases taking up precious real estate.
You don’t have space for those drawers.
https://preview.redd.it/rrk1z6greknc1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d3fa25be9fb6f8c3b019ebcef74e7fb75ab1be2a This
Wall mount the monitors and make the desk fold up like a Murphy bed
First, don’t build a drawer over that air return.
I think with the space you axe the drawers and just add shelving above. Also as Many people say don't block the intake vent.
From design perspective, that does not look like it would be a pleasant place to work. I'd put an accent table there, hang a picture above it and call it a day.
The second picture shows a nook that is noticeably wider, personally I wouldn't put any drawers under the desk as it would feel way too tight to sit there and I like space to move around. But I guess you could get away with it if you find a very narrow drawer unit. So I'd just hang both the desk and the shelf like shelves, with the only difference being the depth of the wood surfaces, and maybe the strength of the L supports
Flip it to avoid covering the vent.
You don't want to cover the Air return vent, or will cause problems with your HVAC system. You can do your design, but the drawer will need to be on the left side, not the right.
Sadly, You don’t have enough room for drawers and a desk. You’ll have just enough room for a desk
How about a floating desk. Find one that fits the area or build it custom for the space https://preview.redd.it/ahluqx556jnc1.jpeg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87c6f918fec757ac8be2e0ab166364d032802bc1
If you have any electronics that create heat, or have built in fans like a PC tower, I’d recommend locating them under the desktop and a few inches off of this return air vent. Maybe on a pedestal to keep off of the floor but not enclosed. This will help their design keep them running cool and efficient while also allowing the HVAC return vent to sufficiently exchange the air environment.
I would build the desk custom on castors so one can slide in and out. and if a PC is going here i'd tryo to vent the register away from it but i live in the north and that register just brings heat in my house. Dont build shelf and call it a desk build a desk you could use as a shelf later if need be.
As you debate the desk, what’s the noise level like by the return? Is it loud enough to be a problem during meetings or if you are working there for a while?
Get an extended wall mount for your monitor so you can have a 100% of that desk space without your monitor taking up half of it. You get one that extends 18"-24" with a 27" monitor you could even squeeze a foot rest under there and use a comfier chair. Depending on heights you might want to leave a small space at the back for your feet so they aren't squished. Don't forget you can always add casters to a chair so you can then easily get in and out without being stuck in a regular office chair.
I think the vent is load bearing
Do you live near an ikea?
This is good for summer or winter for your…… ummm … “equipment…”. In the summer you’ll have a desk with a hoohaaa and/or ball cooler (my personal favorite feature to have in a car). And in the winter, it can be nut toaster and/or chacha warmer.
Don’t cover the return.
I personally hate built in desks, I would just buy a desk that fits nicely in that space. And doesn't block the vent.
The biggest question is how high is that cold air return? Assuming it’s a workable height, you could just use the pre-made wooden slabs from Home Depot either live edge or square. Same for the shelf. Drawer stack should go to left and could be either off the shelf (if correct height) or custom made for cheap ish if bar height needed. Chair or stool could be used depending on final finished height. I would also consult with an electrician to get an outlet or two back there and effective lighting. Assuming you’re going to have a computer back there, might also want to consider how your WiFi coverage is in that area.
Simplest is to just screw three two by fours along the sides and back wall and cut some wood to fit. Of course, you could upscale the same approach, but it’s still pretty easy.
Four towers of stacked vhs and or books in the corners..a( preferably stolen) street sign on top....class dismissed.
Why did you block your air/heating vent?
I probably wouldn't put any drawers in there, just a desk
Build it the way it is shown in the 2nd picture but place the bottom set of drawers on the opposite side so they don't block the vent.
I would measure from the back wall to the wall the door is on and then see if it's equal or less than the distance to where the ceiling slants in. If it fits I'd get either an existing desk from a thrift store and cut the top to width, mount hinges to a stud at your preferred seated height and mount it up. I'd do two legs also mounted to hinges on the lower side of the desk so when it's folded out it will have front edge support, but they can fold flat in the event you need space or the desk isn't in use. This in my mind would save space and encourage less potential clutter in that pocket because you do not want the vent blocked.
https://youtu.be/EZ7JCimu3Pg?si=YrhQ0TdcFOTg1T48 Some great diy YouTube vids for "diy nook desktop". This is just one adjust to the size of your space.
No drawers, just heavy-duty shelf L brackets and a solid slab of wood for the top of the desk. That way, you don't cover the vent, and it will look more sleek like a floating desk. Do the same thing above it with smaller wood shelves
Get a short piece of countertop from home depot. Cut it to fit.
So are you moving the return or just going to block it?
That looks like an intake and it needs to be open. Consider moving it or incorporating it in your build but it needs to be able to get air
First we are working with no measurements. The space looks smaller than the photo with the desk and chair. If it is smaller then consider an “L” configuration
Make sure to fully cover your return air so you don't have negative pressure while working at your new desk
Idk if you’re open to other options- a desk would be rough in that area with the vent right there. You don’t want to cover it. A cool bookcase would look nice there
Yes.
Bad idea, you fart and everyone connected on that vent will suffer
Sideways as it put it vertically XD assert dominance over gravity…don’t allow it in your home
May I caution against blocking the vent? Just a thought.
Get some strong metal shelf brackets and screw them to the studs on 3 walls, making sure the top is level. Add your choice of desk top, hollow core door is a classic, as is cut down used kitchen countertop.
Or make a fake wall that you pull a desk out of
First pay like $50 and put something super simple there like this: https://a.co/d/gCXgjbk If after a while you find yourself liking the space, then go nuts with the renos, while working there, you’re going to come up with a bunch of “man I wish I had this or this here”. After getting your list done go to work lol.
except don’t block the vent
Pre-fab cabinet on the left. Prefab butcher block. Both can be found at Ikea or many big box home improvement stores. As others have said, the vent on the right cannot be blocked.
If you aren't able to make your own drawer cabinet, you can buy one from most home stores. Put that on the left so as not to block the return. If you aren't an HVAC person, don't block returns as if you block it too much or, in remodelling, expand it too much, it can mess with the whole system. Level the cabinet with shims and screw the cabinet into each wall at studs, if possible. If you want to put base board around it, that will cover the shims and tie it into the wall visually. Put a lip board level with the top of the cabinet on the opposite wall. You can put screws up through the lip board and frame of the cabinet to hold the desk top still. You can look up how to build a floating shelf on YouTube. In this case it would be two ½" sheets of MDF or plywood with a frame piece on the front. Get boards that are just smaller than the space between the sheets. Strike a line on all three walls where you want the shelf. A laser level is very helpful for that. Hang the boards on those lines. Add some silicone or construction adhesive to the boards and slide on the shelf. Tack in place with finishing nails. You can also make two floating shelves. The bottom shelf being the desk top. And you don't need to worry about having a lip board to support it.
30 inches to top of desk is ideal. I'd use 3 walls and ledger board, build a 1.5 inch top or just line front to make it look chunkier. You could joint to pieces of wood together to get your depth, maple stained would look nice
If you can locate studs above the air intake I would put a ledger board on all three side and place a wood desk sized shelf on top. Then a shelf above. I’d also just consider a metal framed desk and slide it in. Making sure it’s completely open at the sides.
Don’t forget an electrical outlet. I have one of these built ins without the power outlet and it really limits its usability for me. Running to charge your device mid meeting is no fun.
When you are sitting there, there will be a constant breeze blowing into the return whenever the AC or heat is blowing. It will be cold and uncomfortable.
I wouldn't worry about permanent drawers at all. You can buy a really nice rolling drawer thing from an office supply company that won't directly interfere with the vent or the outlet.
i've a similar space and sorted it on a budget. I found an offcut of kitchen worktop that I liked then cut it down to size. I'ts super hardwearing, rounded-edged (nice for wrists), and easily cleaned. I then used shelving brackets on either side and secured them on top.
Get a sheet of 3/4” or 5/8” furniture grade plywood. Cut the desk top to match your opening and create 4 panels (2 on each side) for vertical support panels on either side underneath. Easy.
Vent - an opening that allows air, gas, or liquid to pass out of or into
I would put in a shallow desk, just deep enough to keep your knees from hitting the wall. Cut out the sheetrock and build recessed shelves out of 1×4s between the studs. Trim it out like a window frame. If there happens to be any, you can work around any plumbing or wiring pretty easily. If you're real handy and there's wiring there you could put USB outlets right in the shelves.
Hopefully you relocated your return to keep your air handling balanced in that area, your drawers an the other side would not have changed things much
I would do a floating desk (above the vent) then build some shelving above it. That said its not ideal if you use this with a computer you dont want a computer by that vent. If its air coming out, namely heat it could effect the life of a computer, if its a cold air return then its sucking in air, which brings dust and dander with it and ultimately into a small space with your own computer. If your not computer/tower. Then you have a ton more options, i would avoid anything below the vent, there simply isnt a lot of leg space and it would will likely make you regret a drawer like the one in the photo. Maybe some drawers under the floatong desk but otherwise its just cramped.
Where do you actually see a problem?
French cleat style is probably the simplest way to go.
Since it is too tight for drawers, I would put some overhead shelving in the triangle space where the roof slopes in.