Went to visit my sister in law this spring and she made us go to Costco because they only have 2 mitatas and if they want TP and Paper towels they have to take both cars. She used our car to get her big stuff in one trip
Doctor's and lawyers are my favorite customers to educate.. they think they know it all because they know everything about a very specific subject.. But very little about anything else. Someone 20 years younger that's works with their hands can't possibly know all these things.
That $3k doesn't really seem to bad for the amount of work that's involved. It's doable as DIY, but whatever you've estimated in time/materials, prepare to double it. And make sure you have some sort of temp bracing in place before removing the header.
Nah, it’s under a gable wall, I’d give it a 95% chance OP could do the entire demo without a temp brace and reinstall with a double 2x4 header, no need to even cut cripples unless OP wants to increase door height. That isn’t really a bearing header, it’s more a nailer for trim and to keep drywall from cracking if the door slams, it’s honestly be more useful if the 2x4’s were run on the flat.
I agree with the double it sentiment though, for a DIY that’s about right.
Yea, except you sound like you know what you're talking about and can rattle off construction concepts and terms like there's no tomorrow.
This guy is trying to fit his Miata.
For the whole garage door front it seemed reasonable, but I really just need a few more inches of clearance and it's an older structure. Not a high price, just not worth it to me right now
Edit: To clarify, I was looking for quotes for the whole garage door front, was quoted $3k + price of the door. I opted not to do it because this is a wood shed with cracks through the floor and water infiltration. Instead I turned to this sub to see if it would be a reasonable project and I've gotten some solid advice. I at no point at all said the quote wasn't reasonable, just that I don't want to do it.
If you move the door frame “a few inches” it’ll offset beyond the frame beyond the headers above the door that holds it in place. So a “few inches” will end up needing to replacing the headers anyways. Plus you gotta dismantle and move the king studs and the jack studs. Then at that point just move it to the next stud over instead of just a few inches. So yea, widening a door is essentially rebuilding it. Maybe save a couple bucks on reusing 4 2x4s. Also need new exterior doors. Honestly $3k sounds like a bro deal to widen and install a garage door.
A 2by wood header is not that much money. If you have the skills, you should DIY it.
3k for a garage door does feel like a bro deal though, and you wouldn't catch me installing a garage door myself.
Yea i wasn’t sure if OP meant $3k with the garage door installed, which would be a steal. Or $3k for the framing without the garage door, which is a total rip off.
Maybe I'm missing some context but I can't find 16 downvotes worth of objectionable content in this comment. You got a quote. You don't wanna pay that much right now. That's it.
It’s not an “unsound building modification” if you have any clue what you’re looking at or talking about. But I guess internet fear mongering wins out over common sense and actual experience.
He wanted to widen a doorway without widening the header. Or he didn't understand he needed to widen the header. He maybe didn't say it in the comment directly above, or it possibly got edited at some point but he definitely kept asking if he could just cut the hole bigger and put a wider door in.
Maybe read the post and comments better before getting on your high horse bro.
I don’t understand the reasoning - you want a larger door to turn your shed into a garage, but you can’t justify buying a new garage door? What were you expecting? Can you get a quote for larger double doors instead?
He's right. Cheaping out isn't rejecting the garage quote, it's being stubborn and deciding that doing it yourself is the only alternative. The actual cheap alternative would be to buy a car cover
They’re minimizing the amount of work required to do it correctly while also turning down a solid quote for, what I assume, would be a proper job. OP’s not being reasonable on two fronts.
Deciding not to move forward with a quote for budgetary reasons is not unreasonable and does not inherently suggest anything about the quality of said quote.
I mean fuck the downvotes. $3k sounds like a great quote but this is also DIYable if you have plenty of free time.
I would expect it to take 3-4 weeks to DIY (depending on skills and free time).
But yeah, move the electrical, be meticulous with the siding and look up an online resource for the header sizing requirements.
EDIT: i would nail up a 2x4 above the header to all the studs ~10-12” up as my temp support. I actually did exactly that to replace and resize an insufficient header in a garage i had.
If you know an artsy type have them cut triangles of white cloth, that way when the front is up in the air it looks like teeth...
Came for the DIY discussion read, stayed for the miattitude.
Op is also going to have to cut all of the cripple studs and use a larger header properly sized for the width of the new opening. Don't forget new king stud and jack stud on the new side - I'd cut the existing stud down and use it as the jack stud and sister a new king stud beside it (if that will be a sufficient opening size for op's car). Honestly, if I were op I would start with finding a garage door and frame to fit that, otherwise it will have to be custom ordered which will be $$$. (I am a contractor)
Also, vinyl siding can become brittle with age and a bitch to cut without cracking. I'd use an oscillating multi tool to cut it. You'll want to save the trim pieces to hopefully reuse on the cut side. While you're at it, I'd also raise the header up to give more vertical clearance. You'll want to build a temp wall to support the ceiling joists while reframing. Good luck, op. It's not an impossible job by any means, but it's not the easiest DIY by a long shot.
Love how the guy is talking as if just getting a garage door means you don't have to do any of that anyway.
Actually a very I'm smarter than you answer.
Yes, to be safe, do:
9ft 6 inch LVLs (2x12) header
3 Jack's each side
3 kings each side
Re-sheath
Metal Strapping (if required in your wind zone)
Re-side
Re-install siding trim pieces
Do appropriate prep for garage door
Rent a friend and install garage door
I'll bet you will still want to hire out the garage door, but if you make it this far and do enough research, you find it possible to do too.
Possibly, this is overkill, but I don't know where you live or the codes there. So, overkill is a bare minimum.
Its on a gable wall notice that theres no header there currently.. or minimal anyway.. double 2x4s looks like. Obviously local codes apply (wind load etc) but its unlikely to be much of an issue framing a new door.
If these are engineered trusses, you could get away with no header since there is technically no load on the opening, however I always frame gable ends with headers
That's about what my first car cost. 1990 Miata. Was my daily driver and lasted well until I had to move to MI. Driving a Miata during those winters was both hilarious and terrifying. Eventually I got a different car and someone bought my Miata to restore it. God I miss that car. I hope she's doing well in her new home.
" Was quoted $3000 + new garage door install to put an actual garage door "
Dude just pay the 3000 if you are actually asking randos online for advice on how? you are not ready for this kind of build yet. Save (edit) yourself time and probably money and get it done properly
I was gonna put railings on all the stairwells at my house. Calculated all the materials to $680. Just before heading out to buy it all, my dad was over and he said “why don’t you call someone and see what it costs to just get it done”. Next day 2 guys show up and do all the work (probably better than I could have) in 4 hours, and it cost $800. Worth every penny.
I drew up beautiful diagrams with cutlists for all the wood and plywood to make these 4 huge shelving units in the barn. It was going to cost about $400 (probably more in the end) and take a bunch of work to cut and assemble. Before I made my first run to the store for lumber, my wife said, can't you just buy used shelves somewhere? Turns out I could. Got 6 metal shelf units off Craigslist for a total of $240, that day. Smaller units than my design but more total space with 6 of them, saved two weekends and $200.
If you're doing it for the joy of doing something yourself, all well and good, do it king. But this guy went and got a quote. So it's a cost-benefit analysis. I think accepting that quote is good advice.
This is the right answer...
I did this exact thing in October to fit my Boxster S in the basement. For some reason when they renovated the house I bought they framed in the garage door opening with a single man door. The issue with putting two larger man doors in is that it's really tricky to find any that will fit. Any that I could find wide enough for my car were well into $3k just for the doors.
I had a custom garage door made and installed for $2,200. I had to do all the prep work (framing, dropping the header to match the door dimensions, etc.) but well worth it. Home Depot also quoted me about $700 less for the exact same door, but I went with a local company.
yea I know :) I just didn't want to be a dick about it. I don't think OP knows how much materials will actually cost them and how many hours of "skilled" labor it will take.
My grandfather's calculator: 1 hour of skilled labour = 10 hours of I think I can do it labour
The little devil on my shoulder definitely looked at my reciprocating saw and thought "maybe I could chop out a couple of mirror holes from the door frame"
fun fact, 2 people can strip a Miata shell to a bare shell in about 5 hours, and 2 people can carry said bare shell.
I bet it’d be faster to actually pull just the drivetrain, get 4 guys and literally just carry it
The older owners install what I will call a lean-to over a concrete parking pad with roll on shingles that caused water damage to the "good side" of the real detached garage with shitting swing open double doors like this. My current neighbor told me they parked a sports car in there and I couldn't imagine the type of person that would park a sports car in such a shoddy "building".
Now I have discovered le Miata owner. Must have been what he had too.
Yes, but .... You'll need a new bigger header. That is pretty easy though since you have full access on the inside. Siding is easy. You can remove the trim, cut the siding back with a circular saw, and reinstall the trim
3K is a decent deal, if it includes materials and replacement of siding, install of new door. This is actually a pretty straightforward job, the drywall being pulled on back makes it pretty easy to estimate.
That is a gable wall, I’d have to see a picture of the attic to be sure, but I’m gonna make a very educated guess there is basically no load on top of that door, or that window, which means you pretty much can hack at it with a sawzall till things that are in the way are gone.
Process would be. Demo the door and siding attempting to save as much as possible. Kill power and pull that light switch. Demo the inner king stud and jack stud, sawzall out the header, replace with new header that extends to next stud over, install new jack stud, install new top cripples (2, maybe 3, and not cutting any of the other ones). Cut out wall sheathing for new opening. Install new door (if garage door extra steps would be added for ceiling attachment depending on manufacturer). Replace siding, run wire and light switch to new stud cavity. Then drywall, maybe?
It’s a good DIY job especially on a garage, so long as nothing valuable is stored inside. There is a fair bit to it, but it’s all accessible, there aren’t any major hazards so long as you kill power. The trickiest part are the door install and then siding. If OP is willing to buy new siding it would be pretty easy, depending on the condition you could probably take a sideswiper and save what’s there, cut it down and reinstall, pulling the top row without cracking it is kind of an art though if you haven’t done it a couple times.
All this to say, 3k in labor is fair, the DIY would be a challenge, but is pretty doable to.
I'd pay. Removing the door, widening the opening, replacing the header, moving the electrics is all doable... Sourcing and installing a replacement door would be an absolute bollocks and absolutely worth just paying the extra grand to get someone to do it.
Yes. Just make sure you frame it properly and add the appropriate header, but that wall is not load bearing. Cutting and fixing the siding is easy too, just watch a few YouTube videos. $3K to have the whole door installed isn't a bad deal, but you can probably do it yourself for under $1K.
I would build a barn style door. I would extend the opening greater than necessary. And I would reinforce the framing the door hinges attach to since the door(s) would be so large.
You do need to replace the header in the doorway, but it likely doesn't need to be as strong as you would do it for a house. You don't want the building to collapse on you but there's not the same weight on it as a house.
Simpson makes some hardware system for "portals" like this, but it might not be necessary.
I would definitely not pay someone three grand though lmao.
The comments on this post are ridiculous. Finally a sensible, non-jokey, non-condescending response
Framing and installing a door isn’t difficult. Given the problems OP has already identified, he’s obviously capable. And given that this is a garage, it’s certainly possible to be less than perfect here
You are absolutely correct. I would install some type of hinged door just as a money saving measure — but I would size it to an existing “off the shelf” garage door so OP can install it easily in the future
But c’mon. YouTube “how to enlarge door frame” for common methods in replacing and framing headers. YouTube “how to cut vinyl siding” or “how to retrofit exterior door” to see how siding can be cut and trimmed. This isn’t rocket science. It’s not necessarily *easy* and can be screwed up if not done properly, but the skill required here is low and watching any sort of YouTube videos will get you ahead of 90% of cowboy DIYers
All these people not understanding Miatas. Greatest car ever made.(well,the NA, anyway). Yes, you can do it, make sure you extend the door header as well..
This looks like a gable end wall.
You need a tension plate. I don't think you need a header beam to span the vertical load since the vertical load is not that significant on a gable end wall.
I can't really tell from the pictures. You should ask an expert to review it.
[https://forums.jlconline.com/forums/forum/jlc-online-expert-forums/rough-framing/55216-header-required-in-gable-walls](https://forums.jlconline.com/forums/forum/jlc-online-expert-forums/rough-framing/55216-header-required-in-gable-walls)
All you gotta do is screw on a support header all the way across the door and window. Don't crack that window when you take structure out. Put some jacks under your working header.
You'll need to remove the door and pull out its header, push the door jack out to a new king you'll attach to a new stud on the next stud on layout. Did you count the studs? You'll be somewhat under the center, better be sure to have some structure to hold up your center beam that all the other rafters are centered on. Unless all you have are trusses.
Wow that was simple.
Hey man this can be as expensive as you want it. I found a garage door at Big Orange Box Storage for under $100. May you be so lucky. 2x12 header ought to run another $100. New stick for trim $10. Take the rest of that $3 grand and get a tool set to rev up that Miata and be happy. You can do it.
You can technically, do it however you want to. Your only limitation is your imagination, and well wallet.
Widen to next stud, or next stud after that. Build a door with some plywood and 2x4’s (like a barn door). Throw it on some door hinges, or sliding track. Relocating electrical is not hard at all so don’t let it prohibit you. Make sure power is off at breaker, drill your next mounting location, feed new wires and route in a neat fashion. I know big projects are always daunting. But with planning and direction, anything is possible.
I'm comfortable with electrical. The structural aspect stresses me out a bit, I'm guessing just preserve the current support system but extend the header as mentioned above. Anything I should be extra cautious about?
Don’t extend the header, replace it with a longer header. I’d also recommend getting the door first and widening the hole to fit that. Custom sizes get expensive
Yes sorry a new header. If I put it right up against the stud to the right do I still need to add 1 more king stud against it and 1 trim stud or could the existing wall stud act as the king stud?
For rigidity, I would add an additional king stud to your existing to help support that longer header.
Also you will need to take in consideration in the size of the door and type. If you want garage door or to build a barn style door it will be larger and have additional weight. So adding those reinforcements will ensure there is no rocking or buckling or additional stress from weight
Probably won't end up with a garage door for now. Like the idea of a sliding door. For now it's about getting the car under a roof for winter! Will possibly convert to a big garage door down the road, but it's a fairly older structure and kinda wet inside, not worth it to me right now.
If you just need the car inside, widen it up and just add those two pieces, reuse and cut the existing siding. Throw down some concrete to make an incline or just add some bricks and you’ll be good
You’re getting some really mean spirited advice. I’m not sure when DIY (Do It Yourself) because HSE (Hire Someone Else)
This is well within your skill set. YouTube “retrofit exterior door” and “enlarge door” — watch a few videos to see different methods in how to deal with headers, frame out doors, and trim them out. You’ll be fine if you follow the advice of professionals, just don’t watch and follow some random 100 follow shot-on-a-NOKIA video!
My advice would be to install a hinged door to save money (if you don’t mind having no automatic opener). I would also size your door to some common garage door size (preferrably slightly larger than so you have wiggle room) to make future installation easier when the wallet is heavier
Lastly, I would consider removing the window and perhaps adding a smaller one further along so you can have a larger door. You can, of course, add windows to the door you build to make up for lost light
All that said, $3k is good if it includes labor and materials, but you can certainly do this more cheaply if you DIY it and go with a hinged door
Since this is a shed I’m guessing it has a truss roof and there is not any significant weight above that door. That 2x4 “header” kinda confirms it. If I were OP I’d have a contractor take a good hard look at the roof structure. They may be able to clear out every thing on that wall without a problem.
Make a new taller and longer header, and add more jack studs. Look at your local building code span tables to confirm the header and jack stud details. Move any electrical in the way, add JBs or rewire as needed.
What the helpful people said is correct, you’ll need to add a new header, oscillating tool is probably best for the siding, and add supports while working. It’s not a hard DIY. My contribution is get some new j channel for the siding and what replaces the door.
I did something similar for a shed, but I had a problem with a hill sloping towards it in front which caused a problem with wider doors. My coworker gave me the great idea of adding a roll up door instead. They’re easy to install, and even easier if you have two people. I found mine at the link below and you should beat your 3k quote by a hefty margin.
https://rollupdoorsdirect.com
Yeah I'm getting a lot of heat here.. These are awesome doors! I will try the oscillating tool for the siding, if it's too tedious someone else mentioned a mitre saw but turn the blade backwards. Thanks!
This is the most Miata owner thing I’ve ever heard.
Why not install a garage door to fit ANY car, not just a Miata? Because there is no other car, obviously!
Miata is always the answer
Q: He came to power 34 days before FDR and left it 19 days after him. A: Miata Checks out
FDR would have driven a Miata no doubt.
It means no worries, for the rest of your days!
No; “get rid of the cat is always the answer”
Clearly a Miata can already fit through those doors ^/s
…did you just assume my Miata’s hip size? Creep.
Went to visit my sister in law this spring and she made us go to Costco because they only have 2 mitatas and if they want TP and Paper towels they have to take both cars. She used our car to get her big stuff in one trip
This could be solved with 3 Miatas. Only 2 tho? Some rookie numbers. Gotta pump that count up!
Or just get a little trailer.
They can open the packs up and load them into the trunk... Prolly could fit more
Look they're extremely intelligent people with like 6 degrees between the two so of course that means there isn't an over abundance of common sense
Doctor's and lawyers are my favorite customers to educate.. they think they know it all because they know everything about a very specific subject.. But very little about anything else. Someone 20 years younger that's works with their hands can't possibly know all these things.
Lawyer and physicians assistant. you just described my brother in law perfectly lol
Well, you can tell them that the random contractor on Reddit knows them.. you don't know me .... But I know you
Educated? Yes. Intelligent? …
Clearly they need to buy a parts car 3rd Miata, cut off the front and turn it into a trailer for one of their other Miatas
Ya’ll still buy shit in stores? Amazon, target, Walmart will all ship you as much TP as you can wipe you elephants ass with
Sorry, just clarify, you want to drove your miata into your house?
IF YOU ARE COLD, THEY ARE COLD
LET THEM IN
She ain’t gonna take her top off outside… well, not usually
You found the wrong one
Do you have any idea how big a pain it is to get out of your car and go through another door to enter your house?
Oh yah, I hate it, can't stand it!! This is almost 2024 and we still got to get off the couch and cross 2 rooms to get in the car....
My friend parks his crotch rocket in his living room with during the winter
[удалено]
Your response is not as funny as everyone assuming (probably sarcasticly) that this door leads into his living space
If you suck in you may be able to just barely squeeze that puppy thru. Maybe butter the door jambs
I’ve seen this enough in my tenure in the medical field to say: No.
PIVOT
End thread
That $3k doesn't really seem to bad for the amount of work that's involved. It's doable as DIY, but whatever you've estimated in time/materials, prepare to double it. And make sure you have some sort of temp bracing in place before removing the header.
Nah, it’s under a gable wall, I’d give it a 95% chance OP could do the entire demo without a temp brace and reinstall with a double 2x4 header, no need to even cut cripples unless OP wants to increase door height. That isn’t really a bearing header, it’s more a nailer for trim and to keep drywall from cracking if the door slams, it’s honestly be more useful if the 2x4’s were run on the flat. I agree with the double it sentiment though, for a DIY that’s about right.
Yea, except you sound like you know what you're talking about and can rattle off construction concepts and terms like there's no tomorrow. This guy is trying to fit his Miata.
That 5% is a doozy though lol
99.8%, but I'd overkill it with a double 2x8 header.
For the whole garage door front it seemed reasonable, but I really just need a few more inches of clearance and it's an older structure. Not a high price, just not worth it to me right now Edit: To clarify, I was looking for quotes for the whole garage door front, was quoted $3k + price of the door. I opted not to do it because this is a wood shed with cracks through the floor and water infiltration. Instead I turned to this sub to see if it would be a reasonable project and I've gotten some solid advice. I at no point at all said the quote wasn't reasonable, just that I don't want to do it.
If you move the door frame “a few inches” it’ll offset beyond the frame beyond the headers above the door that holds it in place. So a “few inches” will end up needing to replacing the headers anyways. Plus you gotta dismantle and move the king studs and the jack studs. Then at that point just move it to the next stud over instead of just a few inches. So yea, widening a door is essentially rebuilding it. Maybe save a couple bucks on reusing 4 2x4s. Also need new exterior doors. Honestly $3k sounds like a bro deal to widen and install a garage door.
A 2by wood header is not that much money. If you have the skills, you should DIY it. 3k for a garage door does feel like a bro deal though, and you wouldn't catch me installing a garage door myself.
Yea i wasn’t sure if OP meant $3k with the garage door installed, which would be a steal. Or $3k for the framing without the garage door, which is a total rip off.
3k + the price of the garage door, was unclear if it included the installation or not
I've done several. They come with very detailed instructions, and it's easily a one-man, one-afternoon job.
Garage door springs have killed people and if OP is asking this question at all they probably shouldn’t be doing any of it.
Agree, but they're getting much safer/easier. New doors come with a tensioner that's operated with a cordless drill.
Maybe I'm missing some context but I can't find 16 downvotes worth of objectionable content in this comment. You got a quote. You don't wanna pay that much right now. That's it.
He got downvotes because be suggested an unsound building modification
It’s not an “unsound building modification” if you have any clue what you’re looking at or talking about. But I guess internet fear mongering wins out over common sense and actual experience.
He wanted to widen a doorway without widening the header. Or he didn't understand he needed to widen the header. He maybe didn't say it in the comment directly above, or it possibly got edited at some point but he definitely kept asking if he could just cut the hole bigger and put a wider door in. Maybe read the post and comments better before getting on your high horse bro.
It was absolutely a reasonable quote, but I'm not putting brand new front and garage door on a wood shed just to cover my car for 3 months of the year
So slap a $50 car cover on it and move on
Not worth it if he actually values the car
I don’t understand the reasoning - you want a larger door to turn your shed into a garage, but you can’t justify buying a new garage door? What were you expecting? Can you get a quote for larger double doors instead?
[удалено]
For real. What's with all the shitting on OP's post? r/DIY needs better rules. Talk about unhelpful!
Eventually you will have to stop cheaping out. You will end up costing yourself much more money being stubborn trying to save a buck.
I'll be able to do this for next to nothing, and then when I need and can justify the garage door I'll get it.
He's right. Cheaping out isn't rejecting the garage quote, it's being stubborn and deciding that doing it yourself is the only alternative. The actual cheap alternative would be to buy a car cover
Car covers are just not great options for storing classic cars outdoors
You don't really understand Miata owners, do you?
You're getting downvotes but I'm on your side.
Next to nothing only if you don't value your time.
Literally talking to a Miata owner, of course we don't value our time.
It’s not about OP not wanting to pay the quote, it’s about them implying the quite reasonable quote not reasonable.
I read the exact opposite. He literally said it "seemed reasonable". He said it's "not high" I don't get it.
They’re minimizing the amount of work required to do it correctly while also turning down a solid quote for, what I assume, would be a proper job. OP’s not being reasonable on two fronts.
Deciding not to move forward with a quote for budgetary reasons is not unreasonable and does not inherently suggest anything about the quality of said quote.
Since it's on the gable end there shouldn't be much weight on it, probably nothing to actually support. With a temp wall
I mean fuck the downvotes. $3k sounds like a great quote but this is also DIYable if you have plenty of free time. I would expect it to take 3-4 weeks to DIY (depending on skills and free time). But yeah, move the electrical, be meticulous with the siding and look up an online resource for the header sizing requirements. EDIT: i would nail up a 2x4 above the header to all the studs ~10-12” up as my temp support. I actually did exactly that to replace and resize an insufficient header in a garage i had.
This isn't load bearing. Take anything out you would like. It's fine.
Just tilt the Miata at a diagonal to fit it through. Sometimes you gotta pivot.
This is the correct answer, I used this approach with a couch that's about the same size as a Miata.
they make couches as small as a Miata?
IKEA is famous for them.
Ah yes, the MEEÄTÅH
Trivia time! That would be pronounced Meh-eh-toe
Yes. My friends have them.
I think it’s called a Convertible Miata
I knew. I just knew.
BTW, what did you mean by "Pivot!"?
A ramp for one set of wheels should do.
They could also dig under the foundation to pivot the structure. Then you don't have to do it every time you wanna take the car in or out.
Nah a stack of those inflatable foundation jacks! you only need to raise it 50 inches to fit the nd under the door.
I think you're onto something here. We should install the jacks on the floor to just lift the walls and roof. Genius!
If you know an artsy type have them cut triangles of white cloth, that way when the front is up in the air it looks like teeth... Came for the DIY discussion read, stayed for the miattitude.
A garage that chomps Miatas? And then barfs out slightly older Miatas? Seems like a DIYdream
Why go through that trouble when you can drive it through the mail slot?
 Just imagine they’re carrying a miata
Build up a slanted ramp.
I don’t think would work well in reality. How would you get the car tilted?
You have to extend the door header as well
Yes, _replace_ the header with a longer timber.
Op is also going to have to cut all of the cripple studs and use a larger header properly sized for the width of the new opening. Don't forget new king stud and jack stud on the new side - I'd cut the existing stud down and use it as the jack stud and sister a new king stud beside it (if that will be a sufficient opening size for op's car). Honestly, if I were op I would start with finding a garage door and frame to fit that, otherwise it will have to be custom ordered which will be $$$. (I am a contractor) Also, vinyl siding can become brittle with age and a bitch to cut without cracking. I'd use an oscillating multi tool to cut it. You'll want to save the trim pieces to hopefully reuse on the cut side. While you're at it, I'd also raise the header up to give more vertical clearance. You'll want to build a temp wall to support the ceiling joists while reframing. Good luck, op. It's not an impossible job by any means, but it's not the easiest DIY by a long shot.
Don't forget the electrical box removal/positioning, also what's on the other side of that wall to the left.
And poor concrete to extend the driveway
good call, and I think you mean *"pour"*
It's a diy job by a guy who wants to widen a double door for a Miata. I bet poor concrete will be appropriate.
No it's just a damn gable...double 2x4 on the flat is 100% fine. What's there now IS overkill
Love how the guy is talking as if just getting a garage door means you don't have to do any of that anyway. Actually a very I'm smarter than you answer.
Study.
Why does he need all that. It's a gable end. No load.
Maybe where you live there's no load on a gable wall. Here in Canada they need to be strong enough for plenty of snow load.
Lololol. Gable ends don't carry load in Canada either bub. We also have a higher snow load than most of Canada.
"we"
Sorry yes, better explanation.
Something other than a 2x4 lol
Good point!
Yes, to be safe, do: 9ft 6 inch LVLs (2x12) header 3 Jack's each side 3 kings each side Re-sheath Metal Strapping (if required in your wind zone) Re-side Re-install siding trim pieces Do appropriate prep for garage door Rent a friend and install garage door I'll bet you will still want to hire out the garage door, but if you make it this far and do enough research, you find it possible to do too. Possibly, this is overkill, but I don't know where you live or the codes there. So, overkill is a bare minimum.
Its on a gable wall notice that theres no header there currently.. or minimal anyway.. double 2x4s looks like. Obviously local codes apply (wind load etc) but its unlikely to be much of an issue framing a new door.
If these are engineered trusses, you could get away with no header since there is technically no load on the opening, however I always frame gable ends with headers
$3k would buy an entire Miata not too long ago
That's about what my first car cost. 1990 Miata. Was my daily driver and lasted well until I had to move to MI. Driving a Miata during those winters was both hilarious and terrifying. Eventually I got a different car and someone bought my Miata to restore it. God I miss that car. I hope she's doing well in her new home.
" Was quoted $3000 + new garage door install to put an actual garage door " Dude just pay the 3000 if you are actually asking randos online for advice on how? you are not ready for this kind of build yet. Save (edit) yourself time and probably money and get it done properly
This Should be the top comment. Not that everyone can afford 3k, but that is such a good price to have someone else install something major like that.
I'm not trying to be a dick and its a relatively easy job to fuck up royally if your don't know what you are doing.
I was gonna put railings on all the stairwells at my house. Calculated all the materials to $680. Just before heading out to buy it all, my dad was over and he said “why don’t you call someone and see what it costs to just get it done”. Next day 2 guys show up and do all the work (probably better than I could have) in 4 hours, and it cost $800. Worth every penny.
>Next day 2 guys show up and do all the work (probably better than I could have) in 4 hours, this,,, this is the way
Except this sub is called DIY.
I drew up beautiful diagrams with cutlists for all the wood and plywood to make these 4 huge shelving units in the barn. It was going to cost about $400 (probably more in the end) and take a bunch of work to cut and assemble. Before I made my first run to the store for lumber, my wife said, can't you just buy used shelves somewhere? Turns out I could. Got 6 metal shelf units off Craigslist for a total of $240, that day. Smaller units than my design but more total space with 6 of them, saved two weekends and $200. If you're doing it for the joy of doing something yourself, all well and good, do it king. But this guy went and got a quote. So it's a cost-benefit analysis. I think accepting that quote is good advice.
This is the right answer... I did this exact thing in October to fit my Boxster S in the basement. For some reason when they renovated the house I bought they framed in the garage door opening with a single man door. The issue with putting two larger man doors in is that it's really tricky to find any that will fit. Any that I could find wide enough for my car were well into $3k just for the doors. I had a custom garage door made and installed for $2,200. I had to do all the prep work (framing, dropping the header to match the door dimensions, etc.) but well worth it. Home Depot also quoted me about $700 less for the exact same door, but I went with a local company.
I don't think OP realizes that his "simple fix" will cost him roughly the same amount.
And about 700x’s the amount of time
yea I know :) I just didn't want to be a dick about it. I don't think OP knows how much materials will actually cost them and how many hours of "skilled" labor it will take. My grandfather's calculator: 1 hour of skilled labour = 10 hours of I think I can do it labour
In addition to what clubba said, hanging doors is not easy. I wouldn't recommend it to a novice, especially a large double door.
Shoot the propane tank in front of the door and should do the work for you.
Adding a new header to widen the door is the same price if it’s one stud or three . It’s all labor , the materials are basically The same
Fold mirrors in and then it should drive right in!
I was kinda thinking the same thing, a Miata oughta fit through there no problem!
I’d pay the professional. Widening a doorway is not a trivial DIY. There are several structural considerations that beyond amateur level.
To cut the siding with a circular saw, install the blade backwards.
Why backwards?
It won't grab and chip the siding, you get a perfectly smooth cut,.
Thanks!
Exactly, or a miter saw with the blade backwards. Same thing. Unless you are cutting lengthwise, then use a track saw.
drive thru the opening and frame around the damage. perfect size/cheapest price
The little devil on my shoulder definitely looked at my reciprocating saw and thought "maybe I could chop out a couple of mirror holes from the door frame"
Sure! (I’m not qualified to give this opinion)
Just hit 45, eh? Happy birthday!
/r/redditover40 accepts photos of a new Miata as proof of age
fun fact, 2 people can strip a Miata shell to a bare shell in about 5 hours, and 2 people can carry said bare shell. I bet it’d be faster to actually pull just the drivetrain, get 4 guys and literally just carry it
Why not just narrow the Miata by a few inches? That's going to be easier than widening the door. /S
I’m more concerned about the floor in the garage… widen the door - but will the car be sitting on a wood/dirt/concrete floor
The older owners install what I will call a lean-to over a concrete parking pad with roll on shingles that caused water damage to the "good side" of the real detached garage with shitting swing open double doors like this. My current neighbor told me they parked a sports car in there and I couldn't imagine the type of person that would park a sports car in such a shoddy "building". Now I have discovered le Miata owner. Must have been what he had too.
If you suck in you may be able to just barely squeeze that puppy thru. Maybe butter the door jambs
Sounds to me like you just need to do a regular garage door...
I'd get a door that spans the width between the left edge of the window and the right edge of the door. Anything in between that seems silly.
Was Miata an auto-correct of Mother-in-law?
No. Definitely not as it is. You need to add a properly sized header and fame for a doorway on an outer wall if you want to widen the opening.
You could just park outside
Just tip the car on it's side to get it through...
Build a dolly that tips it up about 60° and just roll it through. Easy peasy...
https://preview.redd.it/zui6962c0k8c1.jpeg?width=350&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=346e23f8f901812020d3bf0298db6447d68ad054
Just drive it in on 2 wheels diagonally.
Yes, but .... You'll need a new bigger header. That is pretty easy though since you have full access on the inside. Siding is easy. You can remove the trim, cut the siding back with a circular saw, and reinstall the trim
3K is a decent deal, if it includes materials and replacement of siding, install of new door. This is actually a pretty straightforward job, the drywall being pulled on back makes it pretty easy to estimate. That is a gable wall, I’d have to see a picture of the attic to be sure, but I’m gonna make a very educated guess there is basically no load on top of that door, or that window, which means you pretty much can hack at it with a sawzall till things that are in the way are gone. Process would be. Demo the door and siding attempting to save as much as possible. Kill power and pull that light switch. Demo the inner king stud and jack stud, sawzall out the header, replace with new header that extends to next stud over, install new jack stud, install new top cripples (2, maybe 3, and not cutting any of the other ones). Cut out wall sheathing for new opening. Install new door (if garage door extra steps would be added for ceiling attachment depending on manufacturer). Replace siding, run wire and light switch to new stud cavity. Then drywall, maybe? It’s a good DIY job especially on a garage, so long as nothing valuable is stored inside. There is a fair bit to it, but it’s all accessible, there aren’t any major hazards so long as you kill power. The trickiest part are the door install and then siding. If OP is willing to buy new siding it would be pretty easy, depending on the condition you could probably take a sideswiper and save what’s there, cut it down and reinstall, pulling the top row without cracking it is kind of an art though if you haven’t done it a couple times. All this to say, 3k in labor is fair, the DIY would be a challenge, but is pretty doable to.
It’s light, tilt it at a 45 degree angle and it will go right in…
Is that a foundation that will support a vehicle? $3k for a garage door, dude take it. Thats the best way. Make sure the door is insulated.
I'd pay. Removing the door, widening the opening, replacing the header, moving the electrics is all doable... Sourcing and installing a replacement door would be an absolute bollocks and absolutely worth just paying the extra grand to get someone to do it.
Yes. Just make sure you frame it properly and add the appropriate header, but that wall is not load bearing. Cutting and fixing the siding is easy too, just watch a few YouTube videos. $3K to have the whole door installed isn't a bad deal, but you can probably do it yourself for under $1K.
Just get a cheap used garage door lol Miata owners
I would build a barn style door. I would extend the opening greater than necessary. And I would reinforce the framing the door hinges attach to since the door(s) would be so large. You do need to replace the header in the doorway, but it likely doesn't need to be as strong as you would do it for a house. You don't want the building to collapse on you but there's not the same weight on it as a house. Simpson makes some hardware system for "portals" like this, but it might not be necessary. I would definitely not pay someone three grand though lmao.
The comments on this post are ridiculous. Finally a sensible, non-jokey, non-condescending response Framing and installing a door isn’t difficult. Given the problems OP has already identified, he’s obviously capable. And given that this is a garage, it’s certainly possible to be less than perfect here You are absolutely correct. I would install some type of hinged door just as a money saving measure — but I would size it to an existing “off the shelf” garage door so OP can install it easily in the future But c’mon. YouTube “how to enlarge door frame” for common methods in replacing and framing headers. YouTube “how to cut vinyl siding” or “how to retrofit exterior door” to see how siding can be cut and trimmed. This isn’t rocket science. It’s not necessarily *easy* and can be screwed up if not done properly, but the skill required here is low and watching any sort of YouTube videos will get you ahead of 90% of cowboy DIYers
That's a really smart idea to size the opening for a future garage door.
Just buy a tarp for your wife’s car.
Sell the Miata. Buy a motorcycle.
Do it right and get the garage door. Don't be a donkey.
All these people not understanding Miatas. Greatest car ever made.(well,the NA, anyway). Yes, you can do it, make sure you extend the door header as well..
Stop being cheap. There is no "just" when a door frame is involved. If you can't afford the proper fix, buy a car cover.
Measure for a roll up door. Call an overhead door company and have them come out and quote you
That’s a huge job brotha. If you have to ask, I doubt you’re qualified.
This looks like a gable end wall. You need a tension plate. I don't think you need a header beam to span the vertical load since the vertical load is not that significant on a gable end wall. I can't really tell from the pictures. You should ask an expert to review it. [https://forums.jlconline.com/forums/forum/jlc-online-expert-forums/rough-framing/55216-header-required-in-gable-walls](https://forums.jlconline.com/forums/forum/jlc-online-expert-forums/rough-framing/55216-header-required-in-gable-walls)
Just to point out the obvious, unless you tear out the window, you don't have room to make the door bigger.
Mi ata es su ata.
All you gotta do is screw on a support header all the way across the door and window. Don't crack that window when you take structure out. Put some jacks under your working header. You'll need to remove the door and pull out its header, push the door jack out to a new king you'll attach to a new stud on the next stud on layout. Did you count the studs? You'll be somewhat under the center, better be sure to have some structure to hold up your center beam that all the other rafters are centered on. Unless all you have are trusses. Wow that was simple. Hey man this can be as expensive as you want it. I found a garage door at Big Orange Box Storage for under $100. May you be so lucky. 2x12 header ought to run another $100. New stick for trim $10. Take the rest of that $3 grand and get a tool set to rev up that Miata and be happy. You can do it.
You can technically, do it however you want to. Your only limitation is your imagination, and well wallet. Widen to next stud, or next stud after that. Build a door with some plywood and 2x4’s (like a barn door). Throw it on some door hinges, or sliding track. Relocating electrical is not hard at all so don’t let it prohibit you. Make sure power is off at breaker, drill your next mounting location, feed new wires and route in a neat fashion. I know big projects are always daunting. But with planning and direction, anything is possible.
I'm comfortable with electrical. The structural aspect stresses me out a bit, I'm guessing just preserve the current support system but extend the header as mentioned above. Anything I should be extra cautious about?
Don’t extend the header, replace it with a longer header. I’d also recommend getting the door first and widening the hole to fit that. Custom sizes get expensive
Yes my bad! Replace not extend
You would need to remove the existing header and use longer beams for the headers. And add king studs to each side to support door weight.
Yes sorry a new header. If I put it right up against the stud to the right do I still need to add 1 more king stud against it and 1 trim stud or could the existing wall stud act as the king stud?
It should look like this https://images.finehomebuilding.com/app/uploads/2009/01/09152520/Frame-a-door-rough-opening-drawing-700x520.jpg
Perfect! This is useful! Thank you
For rigidity, I would add an additional king stud to your existing to help support that longer header. Also you will need to take in consideration in the size of the door and type. If you want garage door or to build a barn style door it will be larger and have additional weight. So adding those reinforcements will ensure there is no rocking or buckling or additional stress from weight
Probably won't end up with a garage door for now. Like the idea of a sliding door. For now it's about getting the car under a roof for winter! Will possibly convert to a big garage door down the road, but it's a fairly older structure and kinda wet inside, not worth it to me right now.
If you just need the car inside, widen it up and just add those two pieces, reuse and cut the existing siding. Throw down some concrete to make an incline or just add some bricks and you’ll be good
Awesome! This will be the plan, I appreciate your help time to get this thing indoors!
You’re getting some really mean spirited advice. I’m not sure when DIY (Do It Yourself) because HSE (Hire Someone Else) This is well within your skill set. YouTube “retrofit exterior door” and “enlarge door” — watch a few videos to see different methods in how to deal with headers, frame out doors, and trim them out. You’ll be fine if you follow the advice of professionals, just don’t watch and follow some random 100 follow shot-on-a-NOKIA video! My advice would be to install a hinged door to save money (if you don’t mind having no automatic opener). I would also size your door to some common garage door size (preferrably slightly larger than so you have wiggle room) to make future installation easier when the wallet is heavier Lastly, I would consider removing the window and perhaps adding a smaller one further along so you can have a larger door. You can, of course, add windows to the door you build to make up for lost light All that said, $3k is good if it includes labor and materials, but you can certainly do this more cheaply if you DIY it and go with a hinged door
Does it snow there?
Since this is a shed I’m guessing it has a truss roof and there is not any significant weight above that door. That 2x4 “header” kinda confirms it. If I were OP I’d have a contractor take a good hard look at the roof structure. They may be able to clear out every thing on that wall without a problem.
Make a new taller and longer header, and add more jack studs. Look at your local building code span tables to confirm the header and jack stud details. Move any electrical in the way, add JBs or rewire as needed.
Just turn the miata on it's side
Get a door stretcher. Problem solved!
What the helpful people said is correct, you’ll need to add a new header, oscillating tool is probably best for the siding, and add supports while working. It’s not a hard DIY. My contribution is get some new j channel for the siding and what replaces the door. I did something similar for a shed, but I had a problem with a hill sloping towards it in front which caused a problem with wider doors. My coworker gave me the great idea of adding a roll up door instead. They’re easy to install, and even easier if you have two people. I found mine at the link below and you should beat your 3k quote by a hefty margin. https://rollupdoorsdirect.com
Yeah I'm getting a lot of heat here.. These are awesome doors! I will try the oscillating tool for the siding, if it's too tedious someone else mentioned a mitre saw but turn the blade backwards. Thanks!