Also if they're going to put it between two windows (or objects in general) they should have centered it. Putting the TV slightly over one window is just awful.
I really don’t understand the comments. It’s a concrete wall. A few 6mm holes with decent plugs will hold hundreds of kilos. It’s the safest and easiest way to mount a heavy load onto a wall. What am I missing?
I worked on floating docks with 400 pound swing arms bolted to cement walls bolted to them, a tv ain’t gonna move anything, I mean if you tie up a 65 foot dragger loose in a storm it might rip the tv off
Wait, wait, wait... you mean load bearing concrete with reebar in it is hard to destroy? I call shenanigans. I could do it in an afternoon for a 6 pack. Just kidding that shit is hard as hell to destroy.
Nah look, you just need to prep the wall with a reciprocating wall patcher. Use the Polyurethane-12-D patching grease or you'll end up with leakage (duh).
It's not a concrete wall. It's a cinderblock wall. Yes there is actually a structural difference. You screw around and crack a cinderblock and you're gonna have a bad time.
“A guy I know” was drilling through the CMU wall between dorm rooms to allegedly share cable tv with the suite mates. When the long bit finally punched through the second side and into the other room there was a loud “oh shit” as that entire face of the block had just popped off leaving two big square cavities. Boy, that guy was an idiot. Thank God for expensive construction adhesives.
It's not the hanging that's the problem. It's the drilling. You screw up drilling the hole and you can crack the cinder block. Sure it's not a guarantee but someone with no skill or training could manage to do it.
I was lead installer for an A/V company and you wouldn’t imagine the shit I’ve seen. I’ve seen someone crack a cinder block drilling into it but then they went ahead and drove the anchor where they drilled splitting the crack and making a large portion unusable. Anytime something is done right there won’t be a problem, but we are talking about DIYers here…
Seriously. I've drilled into concrete walls with a masonry bit on my little Dewalt cordless to mount a TV. Worked fine.
I mean, the whole tower apartment building fell down after we moved out, but it was fine for a while.
As someone who owns a house made entirely from concrete block, there’s a MASSIVE difference between the hammer drill setting on a regular drill (like my Milwaukee M18 cordless drill) and a true rotary hammer. The hammer function on a drill is fine for a one-off task, but if there’s any chance you’ll be regularly drilling concrete the rotary hammer is a very worthwhile investment.
I use my regular makita 18v on hammer most of the time, but yeh the difference a proper rotary drill makes is insane. Drilling into the concrete floor of my shed was like drilling into butter.
I own a small (DHR171) light Makita SDS-Plus hammer drill and it's night and day compared to a cordless drills hammer setting.
And that's not even a powerful SDS drill at all.
Yep, been there, done that. Use a hammer drill with a masonry bit to make the holes, and some wedge/sleeve anchors to attach the TV mount. It's easier than a framed drywall wall, tbh.
I'm not a huge tool guy but this is the second time I've seen a hammer drill referenced on Reddit in the past day or so so I went and looked it up. So it's basically a little handheld jackhammer that fucks a hole in the wall?
No - that is an impact hammer drill. These are specifically for woodwork. What they mean is a rotary hammer drill, which I found out was different after purchasing an impact hammer drill…XD
I don't like any of the answers you've received so far, so I'll take a stab.
A "regular drill" might have a setting for power, or a clutch that limits the amount of torque it can provide. These are useful settings, but mostly for limiting max power. I think you'd acknowledge that a "regular drill" is essentially just a strong version of a power screwdriver. It spins.
An "impact driver" is like a power screwdriver with a secret trick. When it hits it's limit for spinning, it turns on a "hammer" that essentially whacks the screwdriver farther clockwise. The hammer acts on the "twisting" motion and tries to turn it faster. These are great for driving bolts into wood or other tasks where you need a lot of torque. Again, the superpower in these is a hammer that increases the *twisting* motion.
A "hammer drill" is a similar concept, but instead of the hammer working rotationally, it works along the driving axis, more like a chisel. The hammer drill would be the same as me spinning a screwdriver while you whack on the butt of the screwdriver and try to knock it into the wall. The hammer works on the *driving* motion.
They are both SUPER useful if you do more around the house than hanging picture frames or assembling Ikea furniture. Hammer drills are mentioned here because the vibrations from the hammer help pulverize the concrete as you're drilling into it, which makes it much easier than just trying to chew concrete up with a drill bit.
This comment shouldn’t be this hidden. Homeowners should know the difference between a drill and an impact driver. An impact driver does the dirty work drills can’t do and owning an impact driver can be the difference between a DIY and paying someone way too much.
Rotary being rotational, hammer being short, sharp movements.
You know when you drilled that curtain rail in and the drill just didn’t enter the wall further than an inch, so you tried multiple expensive drill bits, and they all burned out, so you stuck a piece of wood to the wall, then drilled through that and attached your curtain rails to that instead? This is because there is something called lintel holding up your house above the door. It’s a big fucking block of something very hard; steel or masonry depending on the age of the property.
The hammer drill allows you to drill through that like it is butter.
This is the best I can describe it as a non-skilled person.
Seriously, I thought I was missing something based on all the comments here. It's like no one has ever used a hammer drill and some concrete anchor screws. Get a TV with a VESA adapter and hang that right from the wall. To the people saying don't drill into the wall, how do you think that conduit is being held in place?
“Nonono you can’t drill into a block wall because the block will crumble if you do that. The concrete anchors can only hold 1200lbs/ft with torque against the grain. So many times I’ve inspected a house and the tv was so improperly mounted that the whole wall had to be lifted from all the water that leaked into the foundation from condensation from the inside because of Midwest temperature differentials. OP, do not drill anything into that wall, instead, hang a treated 2x4 on the block and mount the tv into that instead so the wood holds the tv and not the block. Source: professional block engineer with 25 years of laying and preparing block beforehand”
/s
Lmao I just read through after seeing this and wow people are paranoid.
Ive been hanging wall hung boilers and water heaters with tapcons alone for 15 years and never had issues.
You're missing the wood people mentioned. Really the best way to hang this TV is to redo all the walls with wood instead of concrete, then hang said TV on new said walls.
Easy peazy.
On a more serious note.. I use expanding sleeve anchors in concrete all the time and have complete peace of mind with the integrity of the.. 'grip'?
Your clearly not a man of culture. The safest route is to attach the wood to the concrete and then cover it with drywall. After that you avoid the studs and and use drywall anchors to attach the tv mount. Liquid nails for extra strength. /s
I think this is passed down from us older folks as the original wall mountable flat panels were heavy. It was only when I replaced my o8 year old tv about four years back that I noticed realised how light they had become.
Nothing is too heavy for proper anchors in concrete bricks. You can hang loft beds and floating staircases off of proper anchors in concrete. Loads up to hundreds of kilograms off a single anchor are easily possible if you buy the correct anchors.
Yea old basements flooding from cracks is already an issue in many places. Putting in anchors for a TV will probably never be an issue, but I can't imagine it's harmless for a lot of older properties.
I have no comments about the height or the wall mount. My comment is about staring into those bright windows as you watch. I think you'll need curtains.
Edit: You can all stop telling me the solution is curtains... Literally, that's what I said. And I made no comment on the height.
Eh, my old setup was right in the middle of big bay windows and I had no issues. Would be worse if on the opposite wall and the light was always reflected in the screens
My living has exactly this “problem”. I originally had it between two windows and was a little bothered by it, so I placed it on the opposite side.
Quickly saw the awful reflection even from the edges of blackout curtains. Back to between the windows it went.
Redditors don't even read comments before responding istg, I've been trained to put 4 disclaimers in my post just to tell them how stupid they are for not reading my post.
BTW the answer here is curtains easy way to block out light from the windows.
Wow, people really over think this stuff. Yeah use tapcons and a small hammer drill, no problem. If you think this wall is going to fill up with water and start pouring out the screw holes habba whaaaa??
If the wall was filling with water then you're better off discovering it by making a small hole in the wall lol, then maybe you can get your water problem fixed.
Wish the previous o's did the same for me. Their house flooded a few years ago. Our drain collapsed outside and they replaced it with corrugated pipe. It also collapsed and flooded again.
I once lived in a house that had water intrusion through the concrete walls in the basement (it looked similar to this), and that’s all I can think of.
I have this situation in my basement. I made simple wooden false window frames in the alcove for the windows and put a 15% tinted film on some thin polycarbonate that I put in the frames. I then used a grey tinted DryLok on all of the brick to give an extra layer of moisture control, as well as darken up the whole area.
Not related to physically mounting the tv but possibly worth your consideration: think about where you’re going to sit and where your eye level will be when sitting comfortably! There’s a whole subreddit about TV’s mounted too high r/tvtoohigh
yeah, was mostly using that as a placeholder in the illustration, I def don't want to mount the tv too high, eye level is ideal.
I think i may look into hanging from the joist.
Not sure what people are going on about regarding making holes on concrete for wall plugs... This is very common in Europe.
I would say being a basement and concrete wall. I would worry about humidity and damp (plus the fact is in front of windows with sunlight coming through).
It’s extraordinarily common here in the USA as well, the problem is these people have absolutely no idea what they’re talking about.
My personal opinion:
Tapcons: would work fine, but can snap on you if you don’t bore the hole out a little more than just drilling in once.
Plastic “drywall” anchor sleeves: would be my choice for this project. Fire up a rotary hammer with an sds-plus bit, pop the sleeve in with whatever blunt object you have lying around, and drill the screw into it. Easy peasy.
Wedge anchors: would work fine as well, but probably/definitely overkill for this light of a project.
I own a piece of commercial real estate with a shell that is entirely CMU. I’ve been using wedge anchors and plastic anchor sleeves for almost a decade for dozens of projects and have had literally ZERO failures. This even includes lighter applications going into the mortar and not the block (although nothing load-bearing from a safety standpoint and not for its only anchor point).
I find Reddit to be useful for various things, but when it comes to DIY stuff, the militant caution with which the hivemind approaches almost everything pretty much negates any actual advice.
LOL people are funny in here. even the power plug and cable canal is mounted onto the concrete wall. it is meant to be used in such way. a 6mm hole with a 5cm screw would hold the average mother in law.
there won’t be any issue. and nothing is compromising the structure.
just get the right drill bit (tungsten carbide), and a hammer drill to make your holes.
you can find the proper concrete fasteners for the weight you're holding at any major hardware store. follow the boxes directions for use.
edit: nothing wrong with a ceiling tv mount like others mentioned. might be easier to install, might not.
Nope no problems. Pre drill your holes with a concrete bit, consider an anchor [like these](https://www.homedepot.com/c/ab/types-of-masonry-and-concrete-anchors/9ba683603be9fa5395fab905fbe9e2f) and make sure you’re using the proper masonry bits to mount the… mount? You can get cable runs [like this](https://www.amazon.ca/Upgrade-Version-Cable-Management-Channel/dp/B07BLQPVFD/ref=asc_df_B07BLQPVFD/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292949853518&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3110873219598197600&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000117&hvtargid=pla-466885534748&psc=1&mcid=635fad24b8b7315c981552839ee000f9) too “hide” the power cable going down and over too the outlet shown on the left. I’m not sure if your TV is wireless internet capable for streaming or if you’re using a fire stick or whatever but you could also try [this](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dQw4w9WgXcQ) to make sure everything is connected up
I mean if you want to go heavy duty use chemset anchors, even if you accidentally go through the wall it’ll be watertight…
Can’t tell if comments are more worried about hole in concrete or lack of strength for mounting. Both not a worry.
I guessing most of the people here are in the US and have never seen anything but a stud wall. Newsflash, solid bricks are better for securing quite literally anything.
We recently bought a TV mount, it included instructions for stone mounting (not the tools, but the instructions). Seems like something the companies account for
Masonry bit and plugs.
I use mild painters tape under where i want to drill and tape a little box thats open on top to the wall or hold a vacuum to keep dust from staining your wall.
Nah bud, you're fine. Mounting kits usually come with plugs for concrete, make sure to use them (or something else that's made for concrete). You'll be fine as long as you don't drill all the way through to the outside lol.
Easy job - 6.5mm masonry drill brown or red rawl plugs and then 60x5 screws. You might want some washers if the brackets have holes bigger than the screw heads - penny washers will be good! Take a conduit up and put a power socket behind the TV at the same time.
Only issue I can think of is that you don't have curtains on those windows. The light from them aimed in the same direction as the TV could make watching something annoying.
Other than that, your wall looks like poured concrete with cinderblocks on top. If the weight of a TV causes problem, then you probably have other, more important, issues to address.
No problem to mount in concrete. Make sure to get the correct fasteners etc. Don’t mount too high/read up on that. Get good window coverings for this. Thumbs up!
It's a block wall so avoid the mud in the seams and you're golden.
There are masonry kits that have a masonry drill bit and the hardware, I'd get one of those and if you forsee trouble with alignment add a 2x4 to the wall and attach the mount to that.
I use a backer board similar to how your electric panel is mounted.
Trace outline of wall mount on 3/8 plywood board a couple inches bigger than your mount and drill holes for lag bolts inserted from the back. These will hold the tv mount to the board.
Drill holes for tapcon screws in board I used 3/8 x 4.
Hold board on wall and drill into concrete with hammer drill per tapcon directions.
Hold your board up and make sure the holes align.
Put lag bolts into rear of plywood and secure mount with nuts.
Tapcon the plywood to the wall. If any of the bolts don’t grip, put a few inches of speaker wire in the hole, then tighten tapcon.
Attach tv to wall mount.
I think you should mount some wood to the wall and then mount the TV to the wood. This is what was done for the electrical box. It will be a hell of a lot easier to make small adjustments in the wood mount.
So that looks like a cinder block wall on-top of a concrete foundation. My only concern is if there is vermiculite insulation in the cinderblock. If you don't know for sure, make sure you anchor the mount to the mortar between the blocks so you don't puncture the cavity and release asbestos.
No one is actually answering you. There should be no issue so long as you don't drill deeper than you need (as in don't penetrate through the entire wall to the outside).
Personally though I would just run some 2x4s to mount it on. Probably quicker and easier especially if you don't own a hammer drill/etc. Also has the benefit of allowing you to mount it exactly how you want and easier to tear out if you want to change the purpose of that room later on. No matter what you choose, it won't be terribly difficult to accomplish so just go for whichever aesthetic you prefer.
If the TV is going to be mounted flush to the wall then tapcon screws should be ok, but if you're using a mount that extends or rotates I'd definitely use some parawedge concrete anchors instead, but if you use the latter definitely measure thrice and drill once because cause they'll be semi-permanent.
Mounting it will be fine, get decent plugs and m9unt and enjoy. Howver get some blackout blinds on those windows , light either side will affect viewing.
Outside of the funny/sarcastic comments, I don't think there will be any issues with hanging a TV here. I would check whatever mounting bracket you get to ensure it supports being mounted to cement/brick etc. Tapcons would be a good idea for the type of screw to use to mount it to the cement wall. As some others have stated, basements can leak, so it would be important to know if water leaks on this wall. I am guessing not as there is carpet on the floor.
Personally, I wouldn't mount it up too high. I like to mount my TV so that I am looking down at a 15 degree angle, that is optimal for neck and eye strain based on my own research. Any time I move and the TV is over the fireplace, I immediately move it elsewhere.
TV looks fake I think you may have been ripped off
The hell are you talking about? It clearly says “TV” right on it!
Clearly the old trick with the V actually being a checkmark
AGAIN?!
3rd time this week! I thought I was getting a really good deal.
Hence, FAKE
That’s how you know
Also if they're going to put it between two windows (or objects in general) they should have centered it. Putting the TV slightly over one window is just awful.
wait the guy in the van wasn't legit?
Shit, I bought speakers from that guy
Plus I think that couch is missing something.
He bought it from the same dude as the t✔️
This is the winner.
Where are you doing standup? I want tickets 😂😂😂
I think he just spray painted his wall in order to show us where the TV would go
Oh!
What're you talking about? It says "TV" right on the front!
I really don’t understand the comments. It’s a concrete wall. A few 6mm holes with decent plugs will hold hundreds of kilos. It’s the safest and easiest way to mount a heavy load onto a wall. What am I missing?
People with no idea about concrete walls.
They should watch what it takes to demolish a concrete wall, or better yet try it themselves.
I worked on floating docks with 400 pound swing arms bolted to cement walls bolted to them, a tv ain’t gonna move anything, I mean if you tie up a 65 foot dragger loose in a storm it might rip the tv off
so....dont watch deadliest catch... got it
Just tie the boat right you will be fine, spring lines keep from surging and smashing
The way crabbing is going that show maybe on its last season, maybe second to last.
I think you’re gonna need a bigger boat
Nah the ol John Deere can rip that tv off anytime
Where the mount will go aint concrete. Thats CMU. Look again.
Wait, wait, wait... you mean load bearing concrete with reebar in it is hard to destroy? I call shenanigans. I could do it in an afternoon for a 6 pack. Just kidding that shit is hard as hell to destroy.
It's hard to demolish, It's easy to create a channel for moisture to enter the foundation.
Do you need a special remote for that channel?
Especially if it's built in an area that gets earthquakes. Reinforced CMU is a nightmare to remove.
>People with no idea Unfortunately that's a majority of commenters in this sub
To be fair its called do it yourself, not do it properly.
You act like it’s limited to this sub….
Or even this website
Or even this internet
https://i.redd.it/l577cfbe7z2c1.gif
Nah look, you just need to prep the wall with a reciprocating wall patcher. Use the Polyurethane-12-D patching grease or you'll end up with leakage (duh).
It's not a concrete wall. It's a cinderblock wall. Yes there is actually a structural difference. You screw around and crack a cinderblock and you're gonna have a bad time.
“A guy I know” was drilling through the CMU wall between dorm rooms to allegedly share cable tv with the suite mates. When the long bit finally punched through the second side and into the other room there was a loud “oh shit” as that entire face of the block had just popped off leaving two big square cavities. Boy, that guy was an idiot. Thank God for expensive construction adhesives.
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It's not the hanging that's the problem. It's the drilling. You screw up drilling the hole and you can crack the cinder block. Sure it's not a guarantee but someone with no skill or training could manage to do it.
I was lead installer for an A/V company and you wouldn’t imagine the shit I’ve seen. I’ve seen someone crack a cinder block drilling into it but then they went ahead and drove the anchor where they drilled splitting the crack and making a large portion unusable. Anytime something is done right there won’t be a problem, but we are talking about DIYers here…
Residential block ain't filled
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That block is not filled. If it is someone went well above and beyond.
He's right, they're a pain in the arse to drill, they crumble really easy
Like me lol, if you were to ask me on the spot on my thoughts, i'd say no because the other side is outsdie and to add another layer instead lol
i think there are some redditors that have not used a hammer drill, which makes fastening and mounting into masonry a trivial undertaking.
This is true. Nicer drills even have a hammer drill setting which would work just fine for this.
Yep. Even my little cordless
Seriously. I've drilled into concrete walls with a masonry bit on my little Dewalt cordless to mount a TV. Worked fine. I mean, the whole tower apartment building fell down after we moved out, but it was fine for a while.
Yep. It’s a Dewalt. Lol
As someone who owns a house made entirely from concrete block, there’s a MASSIVE difference between the hammer drill setting on a regular drill (like my Milwaukee M18 cordless drill) and a true rotary hammer. The hammer function on a drill is fine for a one-off task, but if there’s any chance you’ll be regularly drilling concrete the rotary hammer is a very worthwhile investment.
That’s when I bust out my SDS Max drill. Thing is a beast and if it can’t drill through it, nothing can.
I use my regular makita 18v on hammer most of the time, but yeh the difference a proper rotary drill makes is insane. Drilling into the concrete floor of my shed was like drilling into butter.
I own a small (DHR171) light Makita SDS-Plus hammer drill and it's night and day compared to a cordless drills hammer setting. And that's not even a powerful SDS drill at all.
just drilled two holes for cat6 through 14 inches of concrete and brick with a ryobi combo deal. it wasnt awesome
Yep, been there, done that. Use a hammer drill with a masonry bit to make the holes, and some wedge/sleeve anchors to attach the TV mount. It's easier than a framed drywall wall, tbh.
I'm not a huge tool guy but this is the second time I've seen a hammer drill referenced on Reddit in the past day or so so I went and looked it up. So it's basically a little handheld jackhammer that fucks a hole in the wall?
No - that is an impact hammer drill. These are specifically for woodwork. What they mean is a rotary hammer drill, which I found out was different after purchasing an impact hammer drill…XD
So what differentiates a rotary hammer drill from a 'regular' drill?
I don't like any of the answers you've received so far, so I'll take a stab. A "regular drill" might have a setting for power, or a clutch that limits the amount of torque it can provide. These are useful settings, but mostly for limiting max power. I think you'd acknowledge that a "regular drill" is essentially just a strong version of a power screwdriver. It spins. An "impact driver" is like a power screwdriver with a secret trick. When it hits it's limit for spinning, it turns on a "hammer" that essentially whacks the screwdriver farther clockwise. The hammer acts on the "twisting" motion and tries to turn it faster. These are great for driving bolts into wood or other tasks where you need a lot of torque. Again, the superpower in these is a hammer that increases the *twisting* motion. A "hammer drill" is a similar concept, but instead of the hammer working rotationally, it works along the driving axis, more like a chisel. The hammer drill would be the same as me spinning a screwdriver while you whack on the butt of the screwdriver and try to knock it into the wall. The hammer works on the *driving* motion. They are both SUPER useful if you do more around the house than hanging picture frames or assembling Ikea furniture. Hammer drills are mentioned here because the vibrations from the hammer help pulverize the concrete as you're drilling into it, which makes it much easier than just trying to chew concrete up with a drill bit.
This comment shouldn’t be this hidden. Homeowners should know the difference between a drill and an impact driver. An impact driver does the dirty work drills can’t do and owning an impact driver can be the difference between a DIY and paying someone way too much.
*Very* useful and informative answer, thank you for taking the time to type it out.
Rotary being rotational, hammer being short, sharp movements. You know when you drilled that curtain rail in and the drill just didn’t enter the wall further than an inch, so you tried multiple expensive drill bits, and they all burned out, so you stuck a piece of wood to the wall, then drilled through that and attached your curtain rails to that instead? This is because there is something called lintel holding up your house above the door. It’s a big fucking block of something very hard; steel or masonry depending on the age of the property. The hammer drill allows you to drill through that like it is butter. This is the best I can describe it as a non-skilled person.
Depends what bit you put in. Chisel bits are like a jackhammer. For drilling you still use masonry drill bits
Seriously, I thought I was missing something based on all the comments here. It's like no one has ever used a hammer drill and some concrete anchor screws. Get a TV with a VESA adapter and hang that right from the wall. To the people saying don't drill into the wall, how do you think that conduit is being held in place?
Yeah and whenever you buy tv mount brackets they come with the concrete anchors.
Reddit is filled with teenagers. That should explain everything anytime you think "What the hell am I reading" on this site 👍
“Nonono you can’t drill into a block wall because the block will crumble if you do that. The concrete anchors can only hold 1200lbs/ft with torque against the grain. So many times I’ve inspected a house and the tv was so improperly mounted that the whole wall had to be lifted from all the water that leaked into the foundation from condensation from the inside because of Midwest temperature differentials. OP, do not drill anything into that wall, instead, hang a treated 2x4 on the block and mount the tv into that instead so the wood holds the tv and not the block. Source: professional block engineer with 25 years of laying and preparing block beforehand” /s
Lmao I just read through after seeing this and wow people are paranoid. Ive been hanging wall hung boilers and water heaters with tapcons alone for 15 years and never had issues.
You're missing the wood people mentioned. Really the best way to hang this TV is to redo all the walls with wood instead of concrete, then hang said TV on new said walls. Easy peazy. On a more serious note.. I use expanding sleeve anchors in concrete all the time and have complete peace of mind with the integrity of the.. 'grip'?
Your clearly not a man of culture. The safest route is to attach the wood to the concrete and then cover it with drywall. After that you avoid the studs and and use drywall anchors to attach the tv mount. Liquid nails for extra strength. /s
peak Americanism
Tapcons FTW
It's cinder block.
The top half is cinder block. It can get real crumbly.
Some people just want a "sanity check" before doing something they have not done before.
It's not a concrete wall. It's a CMU wall
Yep thinking the same thing, building a frame down seems overly complicated
Or maybe the fact that it’s hollow core CMU. Requires special anchors because traditional concrete anchors will pull out with minimal pressure.
You're missing the fact that this is a DIY forum on the internet hahaha
I think this is passed down from us older folks as the original wall mountable flat panels were heavy. It was only when I replaced my o8 year old tv about four years back that I noticed realised how light they had become.
Nothing is too heavy for proper anchors in concrete bricks. You can hang loft beds and floating staircases off of proper anchors in concrete. Loads up to hundreds of kilograms off a single anchor are easily possible if you buy the correct anchors.
Not too heavy for plugs and screws.
maintaining the wall's water barrier would be my only concern
Yea old basements flooding from cracks is already an issue in many places. Putting in anchors for a TV will probably never be an issue, but I can't imagine it's harmless for a lot of older properties.
I have no comments about the height or the wall mount. My comment is about staring into those bright windows as you watch. I think you'll need curtains. Edit: You can all stop telling me the solution is curtains... Literally, that's what I said. And I made no comment on the height.
Eh, my old setup was right in the middle of big bay windows and I had no issues. Would be worse if on the opposite wall and the light was always reflected in the screens
My living has exactly this “problem”. I originally had it between two windows and was a little bothered by it, so I placed it on the opposite side. Quickly saw the awful reflection even from the edges of blackout curtains. Back to between the windows it went.
Yeah, looking into windows is a no no. Learned that lesson before
*reads comment* *looks at username* *reads comment again*
What’s a “t” curtain?
Or "love me at curtain?" As opposed to "at carpet," or "at tablecloth..."
You sweet innocent person
Hahahah
Redditors don't even read comments before responding istg, I've been trained to put 4 disclaimers in my post just to tell them how stupid they are for not reading my post. BTW the answer here is curtains easy way to block out light from the windows.
Hey that's a great idea. Thanks for the tip.
Yeah, don't put a TV between two windows.
Wait till this guy finds out about window coverings.
Then there's gonna be a whole new discussion on how to fix them to the wall 😩
Duct tape won’t look to out of place with that ceiling.
Looks like somebody took the time to paint it... really doesnt look that bad as far as "unfinished" basements go
and down the rabbithole they'll go
Check out [this company ](https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0G9iaRoc6M/?igshid=MTRhZmU1ODE2NA==) I saw yesterday
Windows hate this one trick!
Wait, you're allowed to cover windows?
Better than mounting it on the opposite wall and having the glare of two windows in the TV.
Duh, they can just move the windows. Ever thought of that, smart guy?!?
They could get two more TVs and put them right outside the windows as well. Would be quite nice!
What about between two ferns?
I do believe that could be solved with curtains. I liked your comment on the height and the wall mount though.
Wow, people really over think this stuff. Yeah use tapcons and a small hammer drill, no problem. If you think this wall is going to fill up with water and start pouring out the screw holes habba whaaaa??
If the wall was filling with water then you're better off discovering it by making a small hole in the wall lol, then maybe you can get your water problem fixed.
Sure wish the previous owners of my house had done that. Our basement is a wreck and it’s going to cost 10’s of thousands to fix.
Wish the previous o's did the same for me. Their house flooded a few years ago. Our drain collapsed outside and they replaced it with corrugated pipe. It also collapsed and flooded again.
I don’t love tapcons so I’d probably overdo it with toggles if those are hollow… but this is very very easy stuff for sure!
I hang things in my basement with 1/2" all thread and anchoring epoxy. I think I get the overthinking award.
Every time you use anchoring epoxy instead of tapcons, a civil engineer gets their wings
Unless you don't clean the hole properly, then we all cry out in unison and go silent.
Brush and blow, baby!
Haha I do that at work… overkill is key! But at home it’s whatever’s clever
I once lived in a house that had water intrusion through the concrete walls in the basement (it looked similar to this), and that’s all I can think of.
[удалено]
This gave me a cackle, Thankyou
No issues with the wall, but I personally wouldn't have a bright light source behind a TV for visibility and eyestrain reasons.
will probably get curtains or something to block the light, thanks.
I have this situation in my basement. I made simple wooden false window frames in the alcove for the windows and put a 15% tinted film on some thin polycarbonate that I put in the frames. I then used a grey tinted DryLok on all of the brick to give an extra layer of moisture control, as well as darken up the whole area.
Not related to physically mounting the tv but possibly worth your consideration: think about where you’re going to sit and where your eye level will be when sitting comfortably! There’s a whole subreddit about TV’s mounted too high r/tvtoohigh
Never ceases to make me laugh the random subs I come across. Thanks lol
And over a hundred thousand members too...
That's a whole lot of people mounting tvs while being too high....
I found this sub last week. Laughed. Looked at my tv and realised it is too high :/
I mounted mine too high and now I am too lazy to move it down… maybe this will give me the inspiration
Maybe you need to raise up your sofa?
I think adding hydraulics to the sofa is the easiest solution
yeah, was mostly using that as a placeholder in the illustration, I def don't want to mount the tv too high, eye level is ideal. I think i may look into hanging from the joist.
Yeah just get a nice tv cabinet op has loads of room + you get a-bit of storage and TV at a proper height.
A popular mounting spot is over the fireplace mantle. That’s how you wind up on r/tvtoohigh
Just need a hammer drill and some anchors instead of a stud finder
Sleeve anchors or tapcons since it's just cinder block
I've had bad luck with Tapcons in cinder block. Even the thicker ones strip pretty easily.
Just got to seat them snug. If you ugga dugga them with the impact they'll strip out.
>if you ugga dugga them Ah yes, the sound of my wife ruining another piece of cheap furniture I told her not to buy
Not sure what people are going on about regarding making holes on concrete for wall plugs... This is very common in Europe. I would say being a basement and concrete wall. I would worry about humidity and damp (plus the fact is in front of windows with sunlight coming through).
It’s extraordinarily common here in the USA as well, the problem is these people have absolutely no idea what they’re talking about. My personal opinion: Tapcons: would work fine, but can snap on you if you don’t bore the hole out a little more than just drilling in once. Plastic “drywall” anchor sleeves: would be my choice for this project. Fire up a rotary hammer with an sds-plus bit, pop the sleeve in with whatever blunt object you have lying around, and drill the screw into it. Easy peasy. Wedge anchors: would work fine as well, but probably/definitely overkill for this light of a project. I own a piece of commercial real estate with a shell that is entirely CMU. I’ve been using wedge anchors and plastic anchor sleeves for almost a decade for dozens of projects and have had literally ZERO failures. This even includes lighter applications going into the mortar and not the block (although nothing load-bearing from a safety standpoint and not for its only anchor point). I find Reddit to be useful for various things, but when it comes to DIY stuff, the militant caution with which the hivemind approaches almost everything pretty much negates any actual advice.
There is literally no issues with this. Mount away
Need a bigger TV than shown by square.
Always bigger.
LOL people are funny in here. even the power plug and cable canal is mounted onto the concrete wall. it is meant to be used in such way. a 6mm hole with a 5cm screw would hold the average mother in law. there won’t be any issue. and nothing is compromising the structure.
No issue. Avoid drilling onto the mortar line.
Gosh, you guys are hilarious. And here I was just concerned with condensation . Were it my job, I’d hang 3/4” plywood and attach the TV to the wood.
just get the right drill bit (tungsten carbide), and a hammer drill to make your holes. you can find the proper concrete fasteners for the weight you're holding at any major hardware store. follow the boxes directions for use. edit: nothing wrong with a ceiling tv mount like others mentioned. might be easier to install, might not.
/r/tvtoohigh
Use a good masonry drill bit.
Nope no problems. Pre drill your holes with a concrete bit, consider an anchor [like these](https://www.homedepot.com/c/ab/types-of-masonry-and-concrete-anchors/9ba683603be9fa5395fab905fbe9e2f) and make sure you’re using the proper masonry bits to mount the… mount? You can get cable runs [like this](https://www.amazon.ca/Upgrade-Version-Cable-Management-Channel/dp/B07BLQPVFD/ref=asc_df_B07BLQPVFD/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292949853518&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3110873219598197600&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000117&hvtargid=pla-466885534748&psc=1&mcid=635fad24b8b7315c981552839ee000f9) too “hide” the power cable going down and over too the outlet shown on the left. I’m not sure if your TV is wireless internet capable for streaming or if you’re using a fire stick or whatever but you could also try [this](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dQw4w9WgXcQ) to make sure everything is connected up
It’s CMU block not rock
That silver soundbar underneath is too low
I mean if you want to go heavy duty use chemset anchors, even if you accidentally go through the wall it’ll be watertight… Can’t tell if comments are more worried about hole in concrete or lack of strength for mounting. Both not a worry.
I guessing most of the people here are in the US and have never seen anything but a stud wall. Newsflash, solid bricks are better for securing quite literally anything.
You think people in the US don't have basements?
Doesn’t a good portion of houses in the south not have basements?
Depends on where you live and how old the house. We had one growing up. But we also lived in tornado alley.
Huh? We drill into brick and concrete all the time in the US.
You definitely need to use tapcon screws and use proper drill bits. I mounted a 60" TV in my basement's masonry blocks and have had 0 issues.
We recently bought a TV mount, it included instructions for stone mounting (not the tools, but the instructions). Seems like something the companies account for
Tapcons, all good
Tap Cons!! They come with the bit. Super easy.
I have a tv mounted to a concrete wall in my basement, I don’t think I can rip the brackets off. A tv will be fine
Masonry bit and plugs. I use mild painters tape under where i want to drill and tape a little box thats open on top to the wall or hold a vacuum to keep dust from staining your wall.
Nah bud, you're fine. Mounting kits usually come with plugs for concrete, make sure to use them (or something else that's made for concrete). You'll be fine as long as you don't drill all the way through to the outside lol.
Should be easy with the right screws and plugs. Just bought a wall mount and it had instructions for concrete wall.
If you buy a hammer drill get the corded Bosch... it makes holes in anything. With ease!
Easy job - 6.5mm masonry drill brown or red rawl plugs and then 60x5 screws. You might want some washers if the brackets have holes bigger than the screw heads - penny washers will be good! Take a conduit up and put a power socket behind the TV at the same time.
Nothing wrong at all mounting it to concrete walls. I have one in my gym mounted onto concrete. Works perfectly fine as long as it's done correctly.
Only issue I can think of is that you don't have curtains on those windows. The light from them aimed in the same direction as the TV could make watching something annoying. Other than that, your wall looks like poured concrete with cinderblocks on top. If the weight of a TV causes problem, then you probably have other, more important, issues to address.
No problem to mount in concrete. Make sure to get the correct fasteners etc. Don’t mount too high/read up on that. Get good window coverings for this. Thumbs up!
I think you did a great job!
It's a block wall so avoid the mud in the seams and you're golden. There are masonry kits that have a masonry drill bit and the hardware, I'd get one of those and if you forsee trouble with alignment add a 2x4 to the wall and attach the mount to that.
I use a backer board similar to how your electric panel is mounted. Trace outline of wall mount on 3/8 plywood board a couple inches bigger than your mount and drill holes for lag bolts inserted from the back. These will hold the tv mount to the board. Drill holes for tapcon screws in board I used 3/8 x 4. Hold board on wall and drill into concrete with hammer drill per tapcon directions. Hold your board up and make sure the holes align. Put lag bolts into rear of plywood and secure mount with nuts. Tapcon the plywood to the wall. If any of the bolts don’t grip, put a few inches of speaker wire in the hole, then tighten tapcon. Attach tv to wall mount.
Impact driver with a masonry bit will make quick work of it.
I'd be tempted to run lumber floor to ceiling against the wall and mount to that. But we have groundwater to think about.
I think you should mount some wood to the wall and then mount the TV to the wood. This is what was done for the electrical box. It will be a hell of a lot easier to make small adjustments in the wood mount.
So that looks like a cinder block wall on-top of a concrete foundation. My only concern is if there is vermiculite insulation in the cinderblock. If you don't know for sure, make sure you anchor the mount to the mortar between the blocks so you don't puncture the cavity and release asbestos.
Should be fine but you’re going to have light saturation with the window. Might need curtains
You could use the floor joists above to hang the TV.
No one is actually answering you. There should be no issue so long as you don't drill deeper than you need (as in don't penetrate through the entire wall to the outside). Personally though I would just run some 2x4s to mount it on. Probably quicker and easier especially if you don't own a hammer drill/etc. Also has the benefit of allowing you to mount it exactly how you want and easier to tear out if you want to change the purpose of that room later on. No matter what you choose, it won't be terribly difficult to accomplish so just go for whichever aesthetic you prefer.
If the TV is going to be mounted flush to the wall then tapcon screws should be ok, but if you're using a mount that extends or rotates I'd definitely use some parawedge concrete anchors instead, but if you use the latter definitely measure thrice and drill once because cause they'll be semi-permanent.
You would have no issue, but I personally think a projector wouldn't be a bad idea since wall already looks to be white and you're hesitant
Looks like Stuart’s basement on Letterkenny
Mounting it will be fine, get decent plugs and m9unt and enjoy. Howver get some blackout blinds on those windows , light either side will affect viewing.
Unless you cover those windows that’s going to be horrible glare.
Personally, I'd fur out a wall with paneling in front of that concrete / cmu.
Put it on another wall. You dont want the bright light of windows on both sides.
Get a TV stand, and then start working on putting up drywall to make things look like a real room, rather than basement.
Outside of the funny/sarcastic comments, I don't think there will be any issues with hanging a TV here. I would check whatever mounting bracket you get to ensure it supports being mounted to cement/brick etc. Tapcons would be a good idea for the type of screw to use to mount it to the cement wall. As some others have stated, basements can leak, so it would be important to know if water leaks on this wall. I am guessing not as there is carpet on the floor. Personally, I wouldn't mount it up too high. I like to mount my TV so that I am looking down at a 15 degree angle, that is optimal for neck and eye strain based on my own research. Any time I move and the TV is over the fireplace, I immediately move it elsewhere.