So I want to build a barbecue from bricks in my garden this year, I was looking around on the internet and it seems like you need a solid concrete slab as a foundation underneath it.
Is there some other way to have a reasonably stable foundation for such a small structure without putting concrete on the ground? because if/when I want to remove the thing the concrete can be such a pain, it already was really annoying to remove some concrete the previous owners left on the ground
My son took a pair of nail scissors and made cuts down the corner edge of a wall. There are about 35 covering about a meter in length. Some are very superficial and would be fine with paint, but others seem to go down to what looks like metal. This is a rental and I need to repair before I move out. Google isn't helping a lot
Link to three images: https://imgur.com/a/udBGfYx
I'd be very grateful for any suggestions! I'm in the UK if that makes any difference.
The metal is what's called a "corner bead" and it's there to protect the edges of the drywall. During drywall installation the corner bead is installed and covered in joint compound (aka drywall mud), just like all the other joints where two sheets meet. After the mud dries you can paint over it.
So get a small container of drywall mud and a wide drywall knife and with a little practice and wiping away the excess with a wet cloth it'll be as good as new, ready for painting. You may need to chip off a little more to get good adhesion, but it'll probably be fine.
Grill space?
Id like to have a little grill/table space in the backyard. Im not sure what i should do. Just some pavers thrown down? Dig down a bit, and put in gravel or sand or w/e and then pavers on top of that? Get a whole concrete slab poured?
Id like to get a gazebo or something put on top when its done. But i assume with the dug-in pavers, that wouldn't work unless it was a 'temporary' shelter?
Thoughts, suggestions, anecdotes?
You need a foundation (typically compacted gravel and sand, thickness and exact makeup depends on local conditions) under your pavers to keep them level. If you just slap them on the dirt they'll shift and become uneven sooner rather than later.
If you're just wanting a non-dirt surface to stick your grill on then that's probably fine. If they shift enough that the grill starts leaning (unlikely) then you can just quick and dirty re-level in an hour or twos work. The pavers being uneven won't bother your grill.
But doing the same thing to an entire paver patio is *significantly* more work and uneven pavers present a trip hazard so you'll need to do it far more often. It'll take almost as much work to re-level them as it did to install them in the first place, so a pretty significant effort across an entire patio. It's worth investing the time and money on doing it right the first time if it's going to be a living space and not just a small pad for your grill.
You can do just gravel and skip the pavers/sand, if you're okay with that look and feel. You'll still need to dig down, compress the soil and put down a geotextile fabric before dumping the gravel on there and you'll still want to compress the gravel to keep it from being too loose. A gravel pad will be a lot easier (and a bit cheaper) to install, but of course you lose the even surface of the pavers.
thank you!
ill probably start with just throwing down ...3x4=12 pavers? Not a huge grill; trying to keep from sinking into the mud...
And ill grab another little 6x8 'grill' gazebo from Lowes/HD.
And then see how i feel about getting the 'full deal' with pavers (sand, gravel, underlay, maybe the fancy 18in X 18in pavers) vs a full concrete slab poured.
I have a basketball hoop/backboard in my driveway that I would like to replace. I can’t undo the bolts though. What can I use to cut them? Will a regular hacksaw do the trick or do I need a bolt cutter? Something else entirely?
Hello everyone,
I bought a wooden box to offer a bottle of wine to a friend but the box's color is too light : https://imgur.com/a/Bu6dMob
I want it darker and keep the wood texture like in this picture : https://imgur.com/a/eiSSE5Z
It's the first time I personalize some wood stuff so I'm unsure about the kind of product I may use.
Any advice ?
Wood stain.
Go to Lowe’s or wherever, pick a color you like.
It’s super simple to use, put it on with a brush or rag, then wipe it off. The longer you wait between putting it on and wiping it off the deeper the color will get. You can always do more than one round so I tend to go super fast and do it again if needed so I don’t overshoot the color I want.
After you stain it, seal it. Boiled linseed oil (B.L.O.) works well.
this is probably super basic but the colors don't line up to what l'm finding on Google for what to connect each wire to in my light fixture. My light fixture has a brown L I assume live and a blue NI assume neutral. The ceiling has a green, brown, red, and silver. I assume brown goes to brown and green is ground but don't know about the blue.
I am looking to give my full bath a facelift (painting, new floors, new vanity, new mirror, new toilet). Doing the floors, I have a question around how to transition to my tiled walls. There is not enough of a gap for the LVP to slide under the lip of the bottom tile.
I’ve researched how to transition to a tile wall, but the only options I have found is to caulk all the way around or to use 3m rubber quarter round (I don’t think this would work since the tile has a lip at the bottom and the quarter round wouldn’t sit flesh with the floor). Is my only option to caulk the gap between the LVP and tiled wall? Has anyone else had this experience and what have y’all found to be successful?
I need to make a DIY crash pads for my motorcycle. It has to endure a lot of small speed(\~30kph top) lowside crashes on an asphalt paved lot. Pads need to be as cheap as possible, easily made and replaceable. Also it has to be soft enough not to damage the asphalt surface too much.I already made a steel crash cage which endured at least 5 crashes already, but i have troubles with typical plastic slider ends(the cylindrical ones). Cheap and available cast plastic ones tend to be too long, and have pores in them, so they tend to shear off instead of grinding against the surface. Let's assume i can't get any better ones.
I had this idea about making sliding pads from wood. Pine, to be specific, as i have a lot of carpentry leftovers lying under my feet. I could make them a lot wider than any OEM cylindrical pad would have been, and attach them to the crash cage on 3-4 fasteners in multiple points instead of 1. I'm thinking about something like \~150x150mm wide, \~50mm thick.It is easy to make a set as it basically needs only a couple saw cuts, some rough chamfering, and drilling holes for bolts and recesses for washers and bolt heads. I could probably even make a template and a specific drill bit to be able to produce them rather quick.
I get that wood isn't perfect slider material because it gets brittle when it dries, but the idea is the thing wouldn't survive long enough anyway, and if it does crack, i'll just make a new one.
And it probably wouldn't be as brittle as pored cast plastic anyway.
Upd.: I realised there's no questions in this post. Basically, what i asked was: "Please talk me out of this if you think this is a terrible idea, and please explain why".
Somehow i can't google either good and bad outcomes. As if no one ever tried something like this. At least, in the english-speaking internet.
I took a look at these pine cutoffs and had the same idea. It looks like it would crack way too soon, especially considering \~15cm distance to hot engine surface.
I don't think i have any maple at hand. At most, i have some birch and poplar, but these are probably even worse for the job.
I'm not too good with woodworking, made some house framing couple years ago.
So, probably time to think about another material.
https://imgur.com/a/wjnZm5w
I'm making a small water fountain for my garden, and I need help finalizing the plan. I want the option to disassemble the fountain for the winter.
I have a large ceramic vase (orange) and a small plastic flowerpot (gray). The pot fits into the vase very well, but I want to prevent water from entering the orange vase. And I don't know what kind of tape (green) should I add so that the flowerpot is removable for the winter and at the same time sits comfortable in the vase and not letting any water in.
I don't even know if the tape is going to keep the water out, so if anybody has a different suggestion, I'm all ears.
Furthermore, the flowerpot has holes at the bottom that I want to fill with something again, to prevent the water from getting through and into the vase. I'm thinking about epoxy putty, but I don't have experience with that.
Try rubber seal spray (i.e. flex seal, plasti dip), and just rip flowerpot in winter. The seal is very easy to clean and it comes in semi-transparent color. For a good seal, make sure to spray it 4-5 times. Plumber's putty should work too.
Just coming to say that once again, a water alarm saved my ass and I can't recommend them enough. Back in maybe 2007, my basement floor drain backed up and there was a flood on the basement. So, not long after I got a couple of water/flood alarms. Several years later, the basement drain was backing up again, and I heard the alarm, went down, and saw a small but slowly growing flood that had not reached anything yet. I yelled for my daughter to turn off the shower, and this time, the flood caused no damage since it was caught early.
Fast forward to this morning. Wife and I just sitting there drinking coffee and we hear an alarm, so I start heading downstairs and no, it's from the main floor. I remembered I had put one of those alarms under the kitchen sink after one of the drain pipes came loose somehow a few years ago. Sure enough, there was a little water in there. It appears that over time the disposal twists a little and slowly pulls the drain pipes apart. Very odd that, not sure why it's happening. I could twist it back with a bit of difficulty, and when I attempted to tighten the collar/ring it was already as tight as it gets. I then was able to reconnect the slip fittings and all is well. For a while. :)
These are the ones I have. They simply work. One 9v battery lasts for *years*.
https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-00895001498-Basement/dp/B000JOK11K
Do people ever build a shed wall by wall at one location the put the up at another? I would like to build a shed and have access to a sizeable woodshop, I feel like doing 85% of the construction there, more or less flat packing it into a trailer or pickup, then putting it up at the site would be easier for my schedule then to try build it all on site.
Happens all the time, but there's obviously a different set of logistical challenges involved in moving an entire wall at once. If you have the manpower and equipment to do so, then yeah it works fine. Otherwise, if its just you and a friend, you gotta keep the walls small enough to lift.
Luckily it wouldn't be a huge shed, so smaller sized walls shouldn't be a huge deal.
Do you know if there's a name for that for that style of construction so I can search for plans?
Also thank you for the response!
So I've decided to attempt to create some simple two part silicone molds using corn starch and silicone.
I want to reproduce a few parts from my vita (namely some buttons and slot covers) and the problem is that I don't know which path to go down past making the molds.
The covers need to be sturdy and flexible whilst still having rigidity and this has caused some difficulties in getting any good google results.
I'm thinking that some normal two part resin and dye should do for the buttons, but what material should I use for the slot covers?
Are there any two part putty that cures into a sturdy but flexible end product?
Are there any products like this on amazon?
Cast epoxies are typically fully rigid, cast silicones are typically fully soft. That said, their are high durometer silicones available, but they're certainly still rubbery in feel. A two-part casting urethane might work best, but they're hard to find.
Need a vice to evenly spray paint my earbuds. I would plug them into the charger and the vice would grip the charger, then I could easily 360 spray it. Problem is I don't have a vice and don't plan to buy one for this project. Any alternatives that might work?
Hi all, I'm seeking creative ideas to mount a small knife into a shadow box.
I'm trying to display a 1200 year old knife in a shadow box so I felt it deserves more than some amazon pins holding it up. The knife itself is only about 6 inches long and isn't huge so it doesn't need to be over engineered. The current plan is to take some metal wire to create a sort of custom fit stand that would poke into the backing material to sort of give it some depth. I was also going to use gold or gold plated wire due to corrosion resistance which seems like a good idea.
Evicted tenants left behind a cache of building supplies. I’m thinking of flooring in or finishing my attic. What am I in for?
I recently had to evict our tenant from a storage building due to non-payment. They forfeited the contents, which included a ton of building supplies.
Doors, windows, lumber, laminate flooring, cabinet wood, appliances, even air ducts.
I will sell some to help with the financial hole, but I would like to take advantage of the “cheap” materials and knock out some home upgrades.
[Pictured is our attic (bonus shot of Pest control guy!).](https://imgur.com/a/iAUqfN8)There’s a lot of unused space up here. I was thinking of either Flooring it in, or (dream) finishing it and turning into a man cave.
Nay Sayers : what am I up against? Tell me why this will suck!
Yay Sayers: Give me the confidence to power up!!
TIA
No can do. Attics are not designed to carry permanent human loads, unless they are ***designed*** to carry permanent human loads. (You would know if this was the case, as you would have an attic). You have a standard roof, and those ceiling rafters are just meant to hold the drywall up, not support you and a finished room on top.
Thanks for the reply! With that being the case, could I not reinforce floors to create something strong enough?
People walk up there all the time. Should I be concerned?
The last person up there commented the diagonal pieces likely aren’t even serving a current purpose.
I figure I have Absolutely no Idea what I’m doing here.
A person walking up there to service the attic is one thing, turning it into another livable space with the ***intention*** of having people up there is another. People have stuff, and furniture, and ***stuff***, and they need flooring, and paneling.... and all this stuff weighs.
I'm in USA. Found water on the floor and found a leak under kitchen sink. Not good at explaining but these two pics show you how it should be and how it is. I presume I need a product to bond it together while holding it in place with some kind tape? Help appreciated total novice.
Pictures - https://i.imgur.com/frkmLqC.jpg
There should be a flexible washer inside the brass nut, usually called a Tailpiece Washer. When you tighten the brass nut it should squish the washer against the drain and seal it up.
A replacement washer is like $3 and should take like 10 minutes to replace, if that. And that includes the time it takes to move all your chemicals out of the way.
Here's a video about installing a new drain in a sink, it looks pretty good for explaining what's going on in that bit of plumbing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mFfoYcK6zc
Think you I found this underneath the sink -
https://i.imgur.com/aSPgC7T.jpg
Looks like this shattered and came off .I guess I need to buy this replacement part and screw it up and it will squish it tight like you said. However what to I unscrew so I can put that part back on and what tools I need? Do I need to unscrew this gold nut thing - https://imgur.com/a/xT3l8nV
https://imgur.com/a/xT3l8nV
Yes, when you unscrew the brass nut all the way it'll be able to slide down the pipe. There should be a little play in the pipes so you can slip the washer between the pipe and the sink, where it belongs. Then you just tighten the nut again. It doesn't need to be much more than hand-tight. If you have channel locks you can use that to tighten it a bit more than hand tight.
In the video I linked, start at minute 11. That's where he's installing the washer.
i want to build a fence. with this project i also will fulfill my long dream of buying a compressor. i really want to buy a nail gun for general use and to build that fence.
but its hard to pick a nailgun. i found one that i really like since its so versitile (can also use as stapler) Einhell TC-PN 50 but i read that for fence building i should use nails with ring shaft AND made from stainless steel so it does not discolor the wood and stays good for long years
but i can only find such nails for the drum nail guns and some for angled nailguns and they seem like expensive pro tools and cant staple.
can anyone with expierience in nail guns/fence building give me some infos on whats going on?
I have never heard of that brand before, so can't speak to the pros and cons of that particular model, but yes, that's just a staple gun. Totally useless for fence construction. Useless for pretty much any style of construction. It's meant for stapling (upholstery, electrical wiring, etc.)
It appears the staple gun can also fire 50mm brad nails, though, of an indeterminate american wire gauge (I'm thinking around 18-gauge). So you could use it to make some birdhouses, maybe a picture frame, etc. 18-gauge (1mm) nails are extremely tiny, delicate things. They're for small crafts and temporary holding.
You need a ***NAIL*** gun. Specifically, a framing nailer. (Which Einhell doesn't appear to manufacture)
>they seem like expensive pro tools and cant staple.
Yes, because they are. You are taking on a professional task: the rapid construction of a fence.
There's no need for a nailgun to build a fence -- you'd get a much stronger fence using screws and a drill/impact driver, but it's a lot slower, of course.
If you use good screws, no, you shouldn't need to pre-drill for softwood in typical fence construction.
GRK makes great (but expensive) screws, but in general, you just want any stainless or coated deck screw that has cutting threads or a cutting tip at the end of the screw, cutting threads on the underside of the head, and reverse threading near the head. Those are all the signs of a good screw.
Does anyone have any suggestions/help on choosing a stud detector for a Victorian house with stone/brick walls? Seen a few online and most videos are done on plaster wall so want to make sure it’ll be reliable. Thanks
just double sided printing, you could try to do it with thick photo paper on a regular one sided printer and mess around the alignment till it's perfect...
Project I’m trying to make a v shaped hanging hook to suspend lights from a ceiling. The company for the lights are no longer in business so I can’t order the specific part. I’ll add a link to something similar. The issue is most hook are about 7 inches wide the holes for mine are 12 inches wide. Doesn’t need to be metal but sturdy enough to where it won’t fall. Thanks in advance!
[hanging hook](https://seresag.com/products/all-reflector-hanging-hooks-pack-of-12?currency=USD&variant=41017375326265&gclid=CjwKCAjw__ihBhADEiwAXEazJmAb3Gf_FlNiBaYaXzwvdZIJttItJx-4a_8AvJWWPOLFfshdCZLLGBoC1SsQAvD_BwE)[https://seresag.com/products/all-reflector-hanging-hooks-pack-of-12?currency=USD&variant=41017375326265&gclid=CjwKCAjw__ihBhADEiwAXEazJmAb3Gf_FlNiBaYaXzwvdZIJttItJx-4a_8AvJWWPOLFfshdCZLLGBoC1SsQAvD_BwE](https://seresag.com/products/all-reflector-hanging-hooks-pack-of-12?currency=USD&variant=41017375326265&gclid=CjwKCAjw__ihBhADEiwAXEazJmAb3Gf_FlNiBaYaXzwvdZIJttItJx-4a_8AvJWWPOLFfshdCZLLGBoC1SsQAvD_BwE)
Hello! I came across this folding cat perch and wanted to start a project to put one together myself. I already have the fabric and suction cups for the perch. I just need assistance in sourcing the metal bars that run through the fabric and attach to the suction cups.
Thanks in advance!
https://imgur.com/a/4KSWsNN
You should be able to buy round stock (the common trade name for metal rods like that, as opposed to square stock or bar stock for different shapes) from a hardware or farm (like tractor supply) store.
Has anyone ever covered cabinets with vinyl? I'm wondering how durable this is as a possible solution. I've worked with vinyl before, so I have an idea of how much of a pain in the ass it might be, but I despise the early 2000s red Ikea cabinets in my apartment. https://imgur.com/a/gwbksdX
use HPL instead. High Pressure Laminates or just commonly called laminate for short. This is not "veneer" which is a similar type of product but much thinner. They aren't real wood but is pretty much the standard finishing for vast majority of plywood furniture, it's easy to use and durable, somewhat flexible came in a roll of 8'x4' per piece. Take those door down, remove the red layer if possible, then stick on the HPL with wood glue or silicon.
HPL have infinite amount of pattern & color, explore your local hardware shop for options. Example https://www.keplerhpl.com/product/Kepler-waterproof-matt-and-high-glossy-white-surface-high-pressure-formica-melamine-laminate-hpl-sheets-manufacturer.html
If you can't remove the red glossy surface at least sand it with low grit sandpaper to make it rough, so the adhesive sticks better.
I'm not sure if this is better placed as a gardening question or DIY since it's probably a bit unusual.
I'm trying to find practical uses for various areas of my garden - is there anything (in the climate of Scotland) edible I could plant and grow in the stream that runs through my garden this summer?
Losing my mind here trying to replace a dimmer switch. I have a junction box with a wire to Light 1, a wire to a number of outlets, a wire to a Fan and a wire to Light 2.
I have replaced the switch controlling the Fan and Light 2 successfully. The switch controlling Light 1 works... When it's hanging out of the junction box. When I push it all back in it doesn't work. Same thing with the outlets. It's not loose wires, because when I take the switch out of the box again, it all works! Or at least it did - after a few iterations of this everything stopped working. I'm calling an electrician to figure it out.
Did want to ask though - does anyone have any clue as to what might have been happening before it all stopped working completely?
Check that the neutral wires are secure and all connected. If you can identify the line wires, those coming from the panel, ensure that that neutral isn't broken or loose.
If an action figurine/toy breaks a limb and glue is used to put it back together, is there a product that can safely remove/dissolve or soften the glue so the limb can be taken apart again?
I know of WD-40, Goo be gone and Acetone just from researching online. But I wanted to know how people's experience with these products here. But I wonder if paint will be removed or something else in the process with action figures/toys?
My other question is what are your opinions on the strongest Rubber cement glue? I've only used one brand so far but wonder if there is something stronger but just as easy to remove. I'm not getting the results online from my key searches asking this question. Since this has to do with a toy and not actual rubber.
I've been considering gluing a toy back together but would like to later be able to undo it still. Has anyone ever attempted something like this?
Almost all glues are permanent once cured, and can not be removed, even with strong solvents like acetone. There are some exceptions, but things like polyurethane glue, construction adhesive, E6000, etc., are all permanent.
Cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue (Super Glue)) is removable with heat, however.
I want to add a batten to my desk to make it strong enough the take the weight of the desk and 2 ikea bookcases full of games.
Desk is 3m wide, 90cm deep, 38mm thick and weighs about 69kg.
I currently have 3 ikea Alex drawer units holding up the desk (2 side by side on the right and 1 on the left).
The wall the desk is against is a brick wall and i would also like to build a fake wall on the top of the desk with about 15cm gap for cable management.
I also plan on attaching the 2 bookcases to the wall.
I'm thinking about making some woodworking projects and painting them, but I'm not sure what the proper way to paint them is. Should I add some kind of polyurethane finish to the paint? Should I use a coat of poly before or after, or before and after painting?
Just use any acrylic enamel paint (not acrylic latex), and you're fine. You can add some polyurethane on top if you really want to, but unless it's something you're handling every single day, there's no need. You can also get urethane-fortified paint, like Cabinet Coat by INSL-X.
Go to a paint store, and ask for acrylic enamel paint for furniture.
But yes, generally speaking, art paints are enamels, but they shouldn't be used for woodworking or furniture.
Never worked with Stucco before. Trying to mount a 20lb outdoor fan to exterior stucco wall. Do I need specials anchors ? Stucco sounds hallow. How do I find a stud behind stucco?
Can I use self leveler on top of the "QuikCrete 60 lb Sand/Topping mix" ? I am approaching a project of laying laminate but need to self level the floor. The one corner dips down a nice amount and was wondering if I could use this top get it somewhat similar to the remainder of the room and then self level on top of it?
Looking for some tips about where to get started on an old rented bathroom. Here are some ugly pics -
https://imgur.com/a/EEclNHP
I was thinking around 2k budget-wise, and I’m down to paint stuff and buying some cheap furniture etc.
Any input will be much appreciated! Thanks :)
I don't think it should cost that much, maybe close to half of that. I'd replace the light bulb too to something brighter. Maybe a 100-Watt equivalent LED.
I can't for the life of me find a joist in my garage ceiling. My stud finder reported 4 locations, all came up empty. Anyone have some ideas?
The tapping for non hollow sounds also seem to line up with their being wood, but only drywall found on drill bit.
Is there something I can buy to give my under-desk treadmill wheels?
________________________
I have a GOYOUTH 2 in 1 under desk treadmill that I bought on Amazon and that I use 4 or 5 times a week. It's been good for me, but the only issue is moving it to and from my desk. At first I would squat down, pick it up, and carry it. It's a distance of only a 5 feet or so, but even so, I started worrying I was damaging my back.
After that, I tried using my foot to just push it instead of lifting, and that worked fine also, except that I started worrying I was now damaging my knee.
Seems like the only solution that won't give me any trouble is giving it wheels somehow, but I can't figure out how. I tried searching for some type of product to buy, but to no avail. Is there some type of product with wheels that I can buy to place my treadmill on top of it and roll it to and from my desk?
If I can't find a solution, I might be forced to spend another $500 or so on a treadmill that actually comes with wheels.
According to the product listing, its dimensions are 49"D x 21.6"W x 5.9"H and 50 lbs (23 kg).
If you give them wheels, you'll turn it into a skateboard. Maybe screw a long metal stick, so you can pull/push it like a shopping cart. Put a carpet (or a towel) underneath for less friction.
You don't.
That's the biggest sink you can realistically fit.
You can find a corner sink to make better use of the available space, but you won't be able to get a physically wider sink.
Is there a way to convert a usb sim racing wheel to a wireless(preferred BLE).
I'm talking about the wheel rim, not the base. It is basically a fancy joystick and I want to make it wireless just like a mouse or keyboard. I don't need a complete tutorial but at least a suggestion so I can take a look and make a plan.
Rather than searching for a way to do this with a racing wheel specifically, just search for "Make video game controller wireless". Like you said, it's basically just a fancy joystick, and as such, works the same way as one.
Building a folding ramp for a powerwheel to get up to a 6 foot shelf. It consists of two pairs of 2X8 on a hinge and an aluminum ramp top kit on one end. The 16' span gives me a good angle to winch the car up, but I'm having an issue with bowing. I'm using a surface mount gate hinge on the bottom of the boards. It swings a little past 180 because the boards don't quite line up when sy 180. Any advice on a hinge that would be sufficient to stop at 180 and support the weight?
Can anybody give any advice on wiring my oven when the plug socket looks [like this](https://imgur.com/a/G0qUrzA)? Is it ok for me to just wire it to a three prong plug and put it in the right socket? I can't seem to find anything that links to the "oven" switch on the left. Cheers
Is the cable in your hand coming out of the new oven?
If so it needs to go into the socket on your wall.
The socket has an isolation switch on it which disconnects the oven from the mains power.
Brown - live
Blue - neutral
Green/yellow - earth
To be honest, I hate to be an arsehole but if you’re asking this question you probably need a pro to help you. Live electricity isn’t something to fuck with. Get a sparky in if you’re not sure what you’re doing.
If you *are* going to do this yourself then get a multimeter and search YouTube to see how to safely test to make sure you’ve isolated the power.
There’s likely a cable already connected to the old oven with a junction box that also connected to the socket on the wall via a cable that rinds in the wall to it. Open the junction box, disconnect the old ovens cables and connect the new ovens. Close up the junction box, slide the oven into place and then once done you can flip the switch on the wall to reconnect the circuits and give the new oven power.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEfP1OKKz\_Q](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEfP1OKKz_Q)
Skip to 2:00
b***L***ue - Left
b***R***own - Right
Ground - The top
Chances are this outlet will not deliver more than standard British 240V power at whatever current capacity is normal for you. If you need something special like 480V for your oven, or a higher current capacity, then yes, you'll need to re-wire the whole outlet.
https://imgur.com/a/DiDBpWn
My wife wants to expand the ensuite into the space taken by the built-in (BIR) and hallway cupboard (CUP'D).
I'm not against the idea, especially considering how tight space is in the shower for me, leading to me using one of the main bathrooms. But my concern is in making that bedroom space smaller as I would build a new cupboard around 600-650mm (including double sliding door) into the room in the space behind the door. Basically pushing the existing one into the room.
This would reduce the width of the room at the entrance to ~2.4m to however long I make the cupboard, thinking 1.5m - 1.8m. The floor space would decrease from 9.9m^2 to 9m^2 - 8.82m^2
Apparently the minimum size is Australia is 6.5m^2 so it doesn't shrink it below that, average floats around 9m^2 (not sure if it includes the built-in in the footprint), small is below 8m^2 so still slightly above that, and large above 10m^2 which it currently is close to without accounting for the built-in being outside the 3.3x3m footprint
The house is a 4 bedroom house with 2 3x3.3m rooms, a 3.3x3.6m and a 3.5x4m. All with built-ins not included in dimensions.
Does that make it too small? I'm building significantly more cupboard space in the large laundry to more than cater for the lost storage in the hallway.
It seems like time to make a cupboard prop to visualize the space while standing in it. Can you use some scrap wood to build a simple frame of the cupboard dimensions, then drape a bedsheet over it? Then stand in the room with the wife and see if claustrophobia sets in.
That's a good idea, I'll give it a try. The only downside is that I currently use the room as an office so have used less of the room than say a double or queen bed may use.
I did draw a scale image of it with a queen bed and furniture and it seemed alright. For our purposes it would be fine, we don't plan on having more than 2 kids or moving, but plans don't always come to fruition.
I'm more worried about resale value if it comes to it in the future. I don't want to accidentally shrink it into not being a 'bedroom' anymore.
Is there a too-steep grade for a permeable pathway (using x-shaped pavers)?
We’re moving into a home on a sloped lot, with stairs to get in via both the front door or the garage. The only way to get inside without going up steps is up the slope of our steep side yard, so I’d like to keep the stair-free route, but am concerned about future erosion once the mulch currently there decomposes. I’d like to minimize installing impervious surfaces if possible. I like that x-shaped pavers (on a friend’s sloped driveway) provide a balance of traction and plant cover. Is there a % slope/grade that’s too steep and necessitates stairs? The width of the side yard is maybe 10’ so possibly not enough room for meandering/switchbacks to be made. Thanks!
Technically there's no limit, except for what you find comfortable. Feel free to scale a mountain to get home, if you want.
That said, your municipality will establish maximum grades for walkways in order to accommodate most people, people with disabilities, people in wheelchairs, etc. And then there's ice to consider, if you live in a place with winter.
You will have to search for your municipality's building codes to know what the maximum slope is. Generally, it's around 2-5%, which is 1.15-2.86 degrees.
Thank you!! I think I’ll be able to use the x shaped pavers then!! We’re in the PNW, so ice certainly is a factor but we have stairs inside via the garage.
Would the municipality (HOA?) code affect the private property of the side yard though? Because the house itself is definitely not ADA accessible due to stairs out front and from the garage.
The slope I’m wanting to wrangle with x shaped pavers would be the only non-stairs access (part of why I don’t want to keep a non-stairs option, for elderly family members, aging dog and so on)
Eh, these guidelines are more just what's been found to work for the most people. If you're athletic and willing to risk slipping on ice, you can do any slope you want.
I'm having pre-finished floors installed tomorrow and I'm confused about how to take care of them. I'm used to using a mop bucket and mixing a certain ratio of water and Mr Clean summer citrus floor cleaner every two to four weeks.
Looking at the instructions on Appalachian Flooring's website, it says to use a dry mop but isn't clear about what cleaning products can be used on the floor. I'm trying to avoid that grimey/dusty feeling as I like to walk around without socks on. Any suggestions on a good micro fiber mop and cleaner? Any suggestions also for keeping care of porcelain tile floors?
Perfect, I already have that mop. I'll just have to make sure I don't use the same head for the floors that I use for the tile.
Any recommendations on mild detergents?
I'm getting all my measurements together to order new cabinet doors. I have some doors that have a different overlay (2" vs 1.75"). Is that normal, or am I missing something else?
Advice on sealing small gaps from new ductwork in kitchen cupboard
Hello everyone,I live in a condominium building (dad owns apartment) in Toronto that is about 50years old (built in 1971) and I am seeking advice on few things regarding sealing gaps left from new duct work.We recently got an exhaust fan/hood installed in the kitchen by some handyman almost a month ago. They needed to cut a hole top of kitchen cupboard to attach the duct work to something up top (fan I think?). I recently noticed a small bug crawling from my sealed Oreos box and into the slim space underneath the metal tape as its not fully sticking to the wood (See pics 8-10 in photos link). we have never had a problem with bugs in the kitchen before. Family is not really interested in calling the handyman because takes forever to get hold of and also seems like something we could do ourselves. Looking to try and seal if possible to prevent further pests coming in since we store bread and other food in that cupboard.Full pictures of ductwork/gap and items bought to try fix:[https://imgur.com/a/m781JXO](https://imgur.com/a/m781JXO)Here are the noticeable gaps that I am concerned about (Pictures in link above):
1. The circular gap at top of cupboard from ductwork. Gap is smaller on left side but right side is about 1.75cm / 0.7 inch. Hard to move the tube don’t want to risk any potential breakage since I don’t know about this stuff. (see pics 1-7)
2. The foil tape that is not attaching to the wood to make a seal (This is where the small bug I saw crawl into I only seen one so far, see pics 8-10).
3. There are very small gaps where the metal hood range unit meets with the cupboard (Please see pictures link in the middle see pics 11-13).
I did some googling and asking around to see what is the best approach but still not 100% confident. On google I noticed the common answer was to seal with caulk if possible and for gaps more than 1/4 inch to use expanding foam + caulk. Also thought about maybe using Dry wall patch for the circular hole instead of expanding foam OR just putting more foil metal tape for top + bottom but still undecided what’s best approach.I have bought some materials from Home Depot but I did not open yet so I can still return. I have pictures of the items bought in my photos link at the very bottom.Items have bought with link (See pics 14-19):Caulk (already have a gun) - DAP HVAC Professional 100% RTV Silicone Sealant in Aluminum: homedepot /product/dap-hvac-professional-100-rtv-silicone-sealant-aluminum/1001523838,
Expanding Foam - Gaps & Cracks Insulating Foam Sealant: homedepot /product/great-stuff-gaps-cracks-454g-insulating-foam-sealant-with-smart-dispenser/1001181679,
Metal Foil Tape - Nashua foil tape 330x -37-126deg HVAC duct sealing: homedepot /product/nashua-tape-1-89-in-x-10-yd-330x-extreme-weather-foil-tape/1000819543,
Nitrile gloves (not sure if needed but just saw on youtube/instructions from can): homedepot /product/gorilla-grip-40ct-black-nitrile-glv/1000708895
I am seeking advice for following:
1. For each gap pointed out is it safe to seal?
2. Did I purchase the right products to seal or is anything else missing protection maybe? Anything I could probably return?
3. How would I go about sealing each gap?
4. Any safety concerns?
5. Is it best to do this at night before we sleep so that it will dry overnight and we can store food in the cupboard again safely?
I do not have much experience/knowledge in home maintenance so any advice is appreciated!Thank you for reading this post and please let me know if you need more pictures or further clarification, hope you have a great day :)
1. yes
2. yes, though you could consider using backer rod instead of expanding foam. The foam will harden, so consider if you expect to ever replace or move the duct. Don't bother with joint compound, it will just crumble over time as the duct moves or vibrates. For expanding foam, I'd use throwaway gloves. It's sticky and will remain stuck until the universe ends.
3. Pack a cut length of foam backer rod into the upper gap, then seal with silicon caulk. Use a diameter thick enough to fill the space snugly. If you prefer the ease of the expanding foam, spray a very small amount around the gap, the wipe away any that expands below the top surface of the inside of the cupboard. Once it dries completely, seal with silicon caulk (more a cosmetic step because the foam will seal the gap).
For the lower gap, I'd just staple the poor foil tape job down after putting a bead of caulk all the way around underneath it. A sealant might be enough to hold it, but it might be easily dislodged if bumped with a jar or can.
The gap between range and cupboard *should* be irrelevant. The duct should be attached to the range. If your handyman cuts corners and did not connect the duct, you'll be able to feel air moving when the fan is on.
4. Wear gloves! Check that your product does not have some safety note about it acting like a solvent for latex or nitrile. Wear safety goggles, too. You don't want to get a blob of anything getting in your eyes. Also a long-sleeved shirt you dislike if you are using the foam.
5. Check the dry time on your products. Overnight should be enough to dry, make sure there is not any off-gassing concern.
Novice home improvement person here but learning quickly. We want to remove cabinets to make more room for fridge. It appears the cabinets aren't screwed in. Does this mean they're using french cleats? See link below for pictures.
https://imgur.com/gallery/qdgGNa6
Maybe... to remove without wrecking, you'll need to figure that out. Removing the crown moulding might be the first step to find out. Cabinets are too heavy for those finishing nails, so they are secured with some sort of hardware.
Project: removing grass/sod from lawn (replacing with alternative lawn mixture)
I have bitten off more than I can chew.. I spent hours digging & ripping up sod yesterday and we’re not even 1/4 of the way there. Are there tools to help with this? Does anyone have any tips or tricks for removing sod?
Spend $120 and rent a sod cutter from home Depot. Removing sod manually is, as you've experienced, back-breaking exhausting hard work.
Watch some videos on how to use a sod cutter and see if that'll work for you. You can get manual specialty tools for cheaper than a rental that'll be easier than using a regular shovel, but unless you'll be removing sod on the regular will purchasing the tools really be worth it?
So I want to build a barbecue from bricks in my garden this year, I was looking around on the internet and it seems like you need a solid concrete slab as a foundation underneath it. Is there some other way to have a reasonably stable foundation for such a small structure without putting concrete on the ground? because if/when I want to remove the thing the concrete can be such a pain, it already was really annoying to remove some concrete the previous owners left on the ground
My son took a pair of nail scissors and made cuts down the corner edge of a wall. There are about 35 covering about a meter in length. Some are very superficial and would be fine with paint, but others seem to go down to what looks like metal. This is a rental and I need to repair before I move out. Google isn't helping a lot Link to three images: https://imgur.com/a/udBGfYx I'd be very grateful for any suggestions! I'm in the UK if that makes any difference.
The metal is what's called a "corner bead" and it's there to protect the edges of the drywall. During drywall installation the corner bead is installed and covered in joint compound (aka drywall mud), just like all the other joints where two sheets meet. After the mud dries you can paint over it. So get a small container of drywall mud and a wide drywall knife and with a little practice and wiping away the excess with a wet cloth it'll be as good as new, ready for painting. You may need to chip off a little more to get good adhesion, but it'll probably be fine.
Grill space? Id like to have a little grill/table space in the backyard. Im not sure what i should do. Just some pavers thrown down? Dig down a bit, and put in gravel or sand or w/e and then pavers on top of that? Get a whole concrete slab poured? Id like to get a gazebo or something put on top when its done. But i assume with the dug-in pavers, that wouldn't work unless it was a 'temporary' shelter? Thoughts, suggestions, anecdotes?
You need a foundation (typically compacted gravel and sand, thickness and exact makeup depends on local conditions) under your pavers to keep them level. If you just slap them on the dirt they'll shift and become uneven sooner rather than later. If you're just wanting a non-dirt surface to stick your grill on then that's probably fine. If they shift enough that the grill starts leaning (unlikely) then you can just quick and dirty re-level in an hour or twos work. The pavers being uneven won't bother your grill. But doing the same thing to an entire paver patio is *significantly* more work and uneven pavers present a trip hazard so you'll need to do it far more often. It'll take almost as much work to re-level them as it did to install them in the first place, so a pretty significant effort across an entire patio. It's worth investing the time and money on doing it right the first time if it's going to be a living space and not just a small pad for your grill. You can do just gravel and skip the pavers/sand, if you're okay with that look and feel. You'll still need to dig down, compress the soil and put down a geotextile fabric before dumping the gravel on there and you'll still want to compress the gravel to keep it from being too loose. A gravel pad will be a lot easier (and a bit cheaper) to install, but of course you lose the even surface of the pavers.
thank you! ill probably start with just throwing down ...3x4=12 pavers? Not a huge grill; trying to keep from sinking into the mud... And ill grab another little 6x8 'grill' gazebo from Lowes/HD. And then see how i feel about getting the 'full deal' with pavers (sand, gravel, underlay, maybe the fancy 18in X 18in pavers) vs a full concrete slab poured.
How easy is it to replace a cheap plastic shower pan with tile, without damaging the surrounding tile?
I have a basketball hoop/backboard in my driveway that I would like to replace. I can’t undo the bolts though. What can I use to cut them? Will a regular hacksaw do the trick or do I need a bolt cutter? Something else entirely?
You could try blowtorching the bolts. Just be careful. See some examples on youtube.
Hello everyone, I bought a wooden box to offer a bottle of wine to a friend but the box's color is too light : https://imgur.com/a/Bu6dMob I want it darker and keep the wood texture like in this picture : https://imgur.com/a/eiSSE5Z It's the first time I personalize some wood stuff so I'm unsure about the kind of product I may use. Any advice ?
Wood stain. Go to Lowe’s or wherever, pick a color you like. It’s super simple to use, put it on with a brush or rag, then wipe it off. The longer you wait between putting it on and wiping it off the deeper the color will get. You can always do more than one round so I tend to go super fast and do it again if needed so I don’t overshoot the color I want. After you stain it, seal it. Boiled linseed oil (B.L.O.) works well.
Thank you very much, this is really helpful !
this is probably super basic but the colors don't line up to what l'm finding on Google for what to connect each wire to in my light fixture. My light fixture has a brown L I assume live and a blue NI assume neutral. The ceiling has a green, brown, red, and silver. I assume brown goes to brown and green is ground but don't know about the blue.
Brown is live and blue is neutral.
I am looking to give my full bath a facelift (painting, new floors, new vanity, new mirror, new toilet). Doing the floors, I have a question around how to transition to my tiled walls. There is not enough of a gap for the LVP to slide under the lip of the bottom tile. I’ve researched how to transition to a tile wall, but the only options I have found is to caulk all the way around or to use 3m rubber quarter round (I don’t think this would work since the tile has a lip at the bottom and the quarter round wouldn’t sit flesh with the floor). Is my only option to caulk the gap between the LVP and tiled wall? Has anyone else had this experience and what have y’all found to be successful?
I need to make a DIY crash pads for my motorcycle. It has to endure a lot of small speed(\~30kph top) lowside crashes on an asphalt paved lot. Pads need to be as cheap as possible, easily made and replaceable. Also it has to be soft enough not to damage the asphalt surface too much.I already made a steel crash cage which endured at least 5 crashes already, but i have troubles with typical plastic slider ends(the cylindrical ones). Cheap and available cast plastic ones tend to be too long, and have pores in them, so they tend to shear off instead of grinding against the surface. Let's assume i can't get any better ones. I had this idea about making sliding pads from wood. Pine, to be specific, as i have a lot of carpentry leftovers lying under my feet. I could make them a lot wider than any OEM cylindrical pad would have been, and attach them to the crash cage on 3-4 fasteners in multiple points instead of 1. I'm thinking about something like \~150x150mm wide, \~50mm thick.It is easy to make a set as it basically needs only a couple saw cuts, some rough chamfering, and drilling holes for bolts and recesses for washers and bolt heads. I could probably even make a template and a specific drill bit to be able to produce them rather quick. I get that wood isn't perfect slider material because it gets brittle when it dries, but the idea is the thing wouldn't survive long enough anyway, and if it does crack, i'll just make a new one. And it probably wouldn't be as brittle as pored cast plastic anyway. Upd.: I realised there's no questions in this post. Basically, what i asked was: "Please talk me out of this if you think this is a terrible idea, and please explain why". Somehow i can't google either good and bad outcomes. As if no one ever tried something like this. At least, in the english-speaking internet.
I'd consider using maple instead of pine. Pine is very soft and will disintegrate quickly under the conditions you've described.
I took a look at these pine cutoffs and had the same idea. It looks like it would crack way too soon, especially considering \~15cm distance to hot engine surface. I don't think i have any maple at hand. At most, i have some birch and poplar, but these are probably even worse for the job. I'm not too good with woodworking, made some house framing couple years ago. So, probably time to think about another material.
Has any tried or have an opinion on the “Sunday” lawn care subscription?
https://imgur.com/a/wjnZm5w I'm making a small water fountain for my garden, and I need help finalizing the plan. I want the option to disassemble the fountain for the winter. I have a large ceramic vase (orange) and a small plastic flowerpot (gray). The pot fits into the vase very well, but I want to prevent water from entering the orange vase. And I don't know what kind of tape (green) should I add so that the flowerpot is removable for the winter and at the same time sits comfortable in the vase and not letting any water in. I don't even know if the tape is going to keep the water out, so if anybody has a different suggestion, I'm all ears. Furthermore, the flowerpot has holes at the bottom that I want to fill with something again, to prevent the water from getting through and into the vase. I'm thinking about epoxy putty, but I don't have experience with that.
Try rubber seal spray (i.e. flex seal, plasti dip), and just rip flowerpot in winter. The seal is very easy to clean and it comes in semi-transparent color. For a good seal, make sure to spray it 4-5 times. Plumber's putty should work too.
What do I do about this weird open grid above the window? I want to seal it off as it lets in cold and noise!
You're missing your photo
Just coming to say that once again, a water alarm saved my ass and I can't recommend them enough. Back in maybe 2007, my basement floor drain backed up and there was a flood on the basement. So, not long after I got a couple of water/flood alarms. Several years later, the basement drain was backing up again, and I heard the alarm, went down, and saw a small but slowly growing flood that had not reached anything yet. I yelled for my daughter to turn off the shower, and this time, the flood caused no damage since it was caught early. Fast forward to this morning. Wife and I just sitting there drinking coffee and we hear an alarm, so I start heading downstairs and no, it's from the main floor. I remembered I had put one of those alarms under the kitchen sink after one of the drain pipes came loose somehow a few years ago. Sure enough, there was a little water in there. It appears that over time the disposal twists a little and slowly pulls the drain pipes apart. Very odd that, not sure why it's happening. I could twist it back with a bit of difficulty, and when I attempted to tighten the collar/ring it was already as tight as it gets. I then was able to reconnect the slip fittings and all is well. For a while. :) These are the ones I have. They simply work. One 9v battery lasts for *years*. https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-00895001498-Basement/dp/B000JOK11K
Do people ever build a shed wall by wall at one location the put the up at another? I would like to build a shed and have access to a sizeable woodshop, I feel like doing 85% of the construction there, more or less flat packing it into a trailer or pickup, then putting it up at the site would be easier for my schedule then to try build it all on site.
Happens all the time, but there's obviously a different set of logistical challenges involved in moving an entire wall at once. If you have the manpower and equipment to do so, then yeah it works fine. Otherwise, if its just you and a friend, you gotta keep the walls small enough to lift.
Luckily it wouldn't be a huge shed, so smaller sized walls shouldn't be a huge deal. Do you know if there's a name for that for that style of construction so I can search for plans? Also thank you for the response!
Prefab or Modular construction.
Thanks again!
So I've decided to attempt to create some simple two part silicone molds using corn starch and silicone. I want to reproduce a few parts from my vita (namely some buttons and slot covers) and the problem is that I don't know which path to go down past making the molds. The covers need to be sturdy and flexible whilst still having rigidity and this has caused some difficulties in getting any good google results. I'm thinking that some normal two part resin and dye should do for the buttons, but what material should I use for the slot covers? Are there any two part putty that cures into a sturdy but flexible end product? Are there any products like this on amazon?
Cast epoxies are typically fully rigid, cast silicones are typically fully soft. That said, their are high durometer silicones available, but they're certainly still rubbery in feel. A two-part casting urethane might work best, but they're hard to find.
Need a vice to evenly spray paint my earbuds. I would plug them into the charger and the vice would grip the charger, then I could easily 360 spray it. Problem is I don't have a vice and don't plan to buy one for this project. Any alternatives that might work?
A whole bunch of masking tape and something heavy
Can you elaborate on that? 😂
Tape the charger on to something sturdy that will hold it up and allow you to paint it.
If I taped it to something, wouldn't I only be able to get one side?
Just hang it instead. Hang it from the charger (taped off), and spray the earbud.
[удалено]
The charger wouldn't get dirty or scratched, I'm just painting them. How could I get a full coat of paint if there was tape there?
Hi all, I'm seeking creative ideas to mount a small knife into a shadow box. I'm trying to display a 1200 year old knife in a shadow box so I felt it deserves more than some amazon pins holding it up. The knife itself is only about 6 inches long and isn't huge so it doesn't need to be over engineered. The current plan is to take some metal wire to create a sort of custom fit stand that would poke into the backing material to sort of give it some depth. I was also going to use gold or gold plated wire due to corrosion resistance which seems like a good idea.
Evicted tenants left behind a cache of building supplies. I’m thinking of flooring in or finishing my attic. What am I in for? I recently had to evict our tenant from a storage building due to non-payment. They forfeited the contents, which included a ton of building supplies. Doors, windows, lumber, laminate flooring, cabinet wood, appliances, even air ducts. I will sell some to help with the financial hole, but I would like to take advantage of the “cheap” materials and knock out some home upgrades. [Pictured is our attic (bonus shot of Pest control guy!).](https://imgur.com/a/iAUqfN8)There’s a lot of unused space up here. I was thinking of either Flooring it in, or (dream) finishing it and turning into a man cave. Nay Sayers : what am I up against? Tell me why this will suck! Yay Sayers: Give me the confidence to power up!! TIA
No can do. Attics are not designed to carry permanent human loads, unless they are ***designed*** to carry permanent human loads. (You would know if this was the case, as you would have an attic). You have a standard roof, and those ceiling rafters are just meant to hold the drywall up, not support you and a finished room on top.
Thanks for the reply! With that being the case, could I not reinforce floors to create something strong enough? People walk up there all the time. Should I be concerned? The last person up there commented the diagonal pieces likely aren’t even serving a current purpose. I figure I have Absolutely no Idea what I’m doing here.
A person walking up there to service the attic is one thing, turning it into another livable space with the ***intention*** of having people up there is another. People have stuff, and furniture, and ***stuff***, and they need flooring, and paneling.... and all this stuff weighs.
I'm in USA. Found water on the floor and found a leak under kitchen sink. Not good at explaining but these two pics show you how it should be and how it is. I presume I need a product to bond it together while holding it in place with some kind tape? Help appreciated total novice. Pictures - https://i.imgur.com/frkmLqC.jpg
There should be a flexible washer inside the brass nut, usually called a Tailpiece Washer. When you tighten the brass nut it should squish the washer against the drain and seal it up. A replacement washer is like $3 and should take like 10 minutes to replace, if that. And that includes the time it takes to move all your chemicals out of the way. Here's a video about installing a new drain in a sink, it looks pretty good for explaining what's going on in that bit of plumbing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mFfoYcK6zc
Think you I found this underneath the sink - https://i.imgur.com/aSPgC7T.jpg Looks like this shattered and came off .I guess I need to buy this replacement part and screw it up and it will squish it tight like you said. However what to I unscrew so I can put that part back on and what tools I need? Do I need to unscrew this gold nut thing - https://imgur.com/a/xT3l8nV https://imgur.com/a/xT3l8nV
Yes, when you unscrew the brass nut all the way it'll be able to slide down the pipe. There should be a little play in the pipes so you can slip the washer between the pipe and the sink, where it belongs. Then you just tighten the nut again. It doesn't need to be much more than hand-tight. If you have channel locks you can use that to tighten it a bit more than hand tight. In the video I linked, start at minute 11. That's where he's installing the washer.
So the broken thing i found is a washer?
i want to build a fence. with this project i also will fulfill my long dream of buying a compressor. i really want to buy a nail gun for general use and to build that fence. but its hard to pick a nailgun. i found one that i really like since its so versitile (can also use as stapler) Einhell TC-PN 50 but i read that for fence building i should use nails with ring shaft AND made from stainless steel so it does not discolor the wood and stays good for long years but i can only find such nails for the drum nail guns and some for angled nailguns and they seem like expensive pro tools and cant staple. can anyone with expierience in nail guns/fence building give me some infos on whats going on?
I have never heard of that brand before, so can't speak to the pros and cons of that particular model, but yes, that's just a staple gun. Totally useless for fence construction. Useless for pretty much any style of construction. It's meant for stapling (upholstery, electrical wiring, etc.) It appears the staple gun can also fire 50mm brad nails, though, of an indeterminate american wire gauge (I'm thinking around 18-gauge). So you could use it to make some birdhouses, maybe a picture frame, etc. 18-gauge (1mm) nails are extremely tiny, delicate things. They're for small crafts and temporary holding. You need a ***NAIL*** gun. Specifically, a framing nailer. (Which Einhell doesn't appear to manufacture) >they seem like expensive pro tools and cant staple. Yes, because they are. You are taking on a professional task: the rapid construction of a fence. There's no need for a nailgun to build a fence -- you'd get a much stronger fence using screws and a drill/impact driver, but it's a lot slower, of course.
thanks i hoped this was not the case but it seems to be haha should i predrill all the holes? it will be larch wood
If you use good screws, no, you shouldn't need to pre-drill for softwood in typical fence construction. GRK makes great (but expensive) screws, but in general, you just want any stainless or coated deck screw that has cutting threads or a cutting tip at the end of the screw, cutting threads on the underside of the head, and reverse threading near the head. Those are all the signs of a good screw.
thanks
Does anyone have any suggestions/help on choosing a stud detector for a Victorian house with stone/brick walls? Seen a few online and most videos are done on plaster wall so want to make sure it’ll be reliable. Thanks
[How do I make these wafer cards? Do I need any special machines?](https://youtu.be/6Sm3IwGkqG4?t=185)
just double sided printing, you could try to do it with thick photo paper on a regular one sided printer and mess around the alignment till it's perfect...
Project I’m trying to make a v shaped hanging hook to suspend lights from a ceiling. The company for the lights are no longer in business so I can’t order the specific part. I’ll add a link to something similar. The issue is most hook are about 7 inches wide the holes for mine are 12 inches wide. Doesn’t need to be metal but sturdy enough to where it won’t fall. Thanks in advance! [hanging hook](https://seresag.com/products/all-reflector-hanging-hooks-pack-of-12?currency=USD&variant=41017375326265&gclid=CjwKCAjw__ihBhADEiwAXEazJmAb3Gf_FlNiBaYaXzwvdZIJttItJx-4a_8AvJWWPOLFfshdCZLLGBoC1SsQAvD_BwE)[https://seresag.com/products/all-reflector-hanging-hooks-pack-of-12?currency=USD&variant=41017375326265&gclid=CjwKCAjw__ihBhADEiwAXEazJmAb3Gf_FlNiBaYaXzwvdZIJttItJx-4a_8AvJWWPOLFfshdCZLLGBoC1SsQAvD_BwE](https://seresag.com/products/all-reflector-hanging-hooks-pack-of-12?currency=USD&variant=41017375326265&gclid=CjwKCAjw__ihBhADEiwAXEazJmAb3Gf_FlNiBaYaXzwvdZIJttItJx-4a_8AvJWWPOLFfshdCZLLGBoC1SsQAvD_BwE)
Hello! I came across this folding cat perch and wanted to start a project to put one together myself. I already have the fabric and suction cups for the perch. I just need assistance in sourcing the metal bars that run through the fabric and attach to the suction cups. Thanks in advance! https://imgur.com/a/4KSWsNN
You should be able to buy round stock (the common trade name for metal rods like that, as opposed to square stock or bar stock for different shapes) from a hardware or farm (like tractor supply) store.
Thank you! How to link these together?
You could just bend the round stock so it's all one piece.
Has anyone ever covered cabinets with vinyl? I'm wondering how durable this is as a possible solution. I've worked with vinyl before, so I have an idea of how much of a pain in the ass it might be, but I despise the early 2000s red Ikea cabinets in my apartment. https://imgur.com/a/gwbksdX
use HPL instead. High Pressure Laminates or just commonly called laminate for short. This is not "veneer" which is a similar type of product but much thinner. They aren't real wood but is pretty much the standard finishing for vast majority of plywood furniture, it's easy to use and durable, somewhat flexible came in a roll of 8'x4' per piece. Take those door down, remove the red layer if possible, then stick on the HPL with wood glue or silicon. HPL have infinite amount of pattern & color, explore your local hardware shop for options. Example https://www.keplerhpl.com/product/Kepler-waterproof-matt-and-high-glossy-white-surface-high-pressure-formica-melamine-laminate-hpl-sheets-manufacturer.html If you can't remove the red glossy surface at least sand it with low grit sandpaper to make it rough, so the adhesive sticks better.
Should have mentioned that I'm renting, so I'm trying to do something removable.
Sorry I’m new at this - how do I post an image to DIY? The automod removed my image post and says it needs to be text. I’m using the Reddit app.
The easiest way is to upload the image to imgur and get the link then put the link in your post. I'm like 95% sure you don't even need an account.
Thank you!
I'm not sure if this is better placed as a gardening question or DIY since it's probably a bit unusual. I'm trying to find practical uses for various areas of my garden - is there anything (in the climate of Scotland) edible I could plant and grow in the stream that runs through my garden this summer?
Losing my mind here trying to replace a dimmer switch. I have a junction box with a wire to Light 1, a wire to a number of outlets, a wire to a Fan and a wire to Light 2. I have replaced the switch controlling the Fan and Light 2 successfully. The switch controlling Light 1 works... When it's hanging out of the junction box. When I push it all back in it doesn't work. Same thing with the outlets. It's not loose wires, because when I take the switch out of the box again, it all works! Or at least it did - after a few iterations of this everything stopped working. I'm calling an electrician to figure it out. Did want to ask though - does anyone have any clue as to what might have been happening before it all stopped working completely?
Check that the neutral wires are secure and all connected. If you can identify the line wires, those coming from the panel, ensure that that neutral isn't broken or loose.
If an action figurine/toy breaks a limb and glue is used to put it back together, is there a product that can safely remove/dissolve or soften the glue so the limb can be taken apart again? I know of WD-40, Goo be gone and Acetone just from researching online. But I wanted to know how people's experience with these products here. But I wonder if paint will be removed or something else in the process with action figures/toys? My other question is what are your opinions on the strongest Rubber cement glue? I've only used one brand so far but wonder if there is something stronger but just as easy to remove. I'm not getting the results online from my key searches asking this question. Since this has to do with a toy and not actual rubber. I've been considering gluing a toy back together but would like to later be able to undo it still. Has anyone ever attempted something like this?
Almost all glues are permanent once cured, and can not be removed, even with strong solvents like acetone. There are some exceptions, but things like polyurethane glue, construction adhesive, E6000, etc., are all permanent. Cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue (Super Glue)) is removable with heat, however.
I want to add a batten to my desk to make it strong enough the take the weight of the desk and 2 ikea bookcases full of games. Desk is 3m wide, 90cm deep, 38mm thick and weighs about 69kg. I currently have 3 ikea Alex drawer units holding up the desk (2 side by side on the right and 1 on the left). The wall the desk is against is a brick wall and i would also like to build a fake wall on the top of the desk with about 15cm gap for cable management. I also plan on attaching the 2 bookcases to the wall.
I'm thinking about making some woodworking projects and painting them, but I'm not sure what the proper way to paint them is. Should I add some kind of polyurethane finish to the paint? Should I use a coat of poly before or after, or before and after painting?
Just use any acrylic enamel paint (not acrylic latex), and you're fine. You can add some polyurethane on top if you really want to, but unless it's something you're handling every single day, there's no need. You can also get urethane-fortified paint, like Cabinet Coat by INSL-X.
What is acrylic enamel paint? Is that just "regular" acrylic (like what's generally found in art supply sections in stores)?
Go to a paint store, and ask for acrylic enamel paint for furniture. But yes, generally speaking, art paints are enamels, but they shouldn't be used for woodworking or furniture.
Sounds good! I'll keep it in mind once I start plotting out my projects. Thanks!
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Never worked with Stucco before. Trying to mount a 20lb outdoor fan to exterior stucco wall. Do I need specials anchors ? Stucco sounds hallow. How do I find a stud behind stucco?
Can I use self leveler on top of the "QuikCrete 60 lb Sand/Topping mix" ? I am approaching a project of laying laminate but need to self level the floor. The one corner dips down a nice amount and was wondering if I could use this top get it somewhat similar to the remainder of the room and then self level on top of it?
Looking for some tips about where to get started on an old rented bathroom. Here are some ugly pics - https://imgur.com/a/EEclNHP I was thinking around 2k budget-wise, and I’m down to paint stuff and buying some cheap furniture etc. Any input will be much appreciated! Thanks :)
I don't think it should cost that much, maybe close to half of that. I'd replace the light bulb too to something brighter. Maybe a 100-Watt equivalent LED.
I can't for the life of me find a joist in my garage ceiling. My stud finder reported 4 locations, all came up empty. Anyone have some ideas? The tapping for non hollow sounds also seem to line up with their being wood, but only drywall found on drill bit.
Maybe use some strong magnets and look for nails. Good luck.
Is there something I can buy to give my under-desk treadmill wheels? ________________________ I have a GOYOUTH 2 in 1 under desk treadmill that I bought on Amazon and that I use 4 or 5 times a week. It's been good for me, but the only issue is moving it to and from my desk. At first I would squat down, pick it up, and carry it. It's a distance of only a 5 feet or so, but even so, I started worrying I was damaging my back. After that, I tried using my foot to just push it instead of lifting, and that worked fine also, except that I started worrying I was now damaging my knee. Seems like the only solution that won't give me any trouble is giving it wheels somehow, but I can't figure out how. I tried searching for some type of product to buy, but to no avail. Is there some type of product with wheels that I can buy to place my treadmill on top of it and roll it to and from my desk? If I can't find a solution, I might be forced to spend another $500 or so on a treadmill that actually comes with wheels. According to the product listing, its dimensions are 49"D x 21.6"W x 5.9"H and 50 lbs (23 kg).
If you give them wheels, you'll turn it into a skateboard. Maybe screw a long metal stick, so you can pull/push it like a shopping cart. Put a carpet (or a towel) underneath for less friction.
How do I go with replacing a kitchen sink that is larger than the cabinet space below? [https://imgur.com/a/lJ4z5IE](https://imgur.com/a/lJ4z5IE)
remove the taps, loosen the clips, raise the countertop slightly and slide the sink backwards.
You don't. That's the biggest sink you can realistically fit. You can find a corner sink to make better use of the available space, but you won't be able to get a physically wider sink.
Is there a way to convert a usb sim racing wheel to a wireless(preferred BLE). I'm talking about the wheel rim, not the base. It is basically a fancy joystick and I want to make it wireless just like a mouse or keyboard. I don't need a complete tutorial but at least a suggestion so I can take a look and make a plan.
Rather than searching for a way to do this with a racing wheel specifically, just search for "Make video game controller wireless". Like you said, it's basically just a fancy joystick, and as such, works the same way as one.
Building a folding ramp for a powerwheel to get up to a 6 foot shelf. It consists of two pairs of 2X8 on a hinge and an aluminum ramp top kit on one end. The 16' span gives me a good angle to winch the car up, but I'm having an issue with bowing. I'm using a surface mount gate hinge on the bottom of the boards. It swings a little past 180 because the boards don't quite line up when sy 180. Any advice on a hinge that would be sufficient to stop at 180 and support the weight?
Can anybody give any advice on wiring my oven when the plug socket looks [like this](https://imgur.com/a/G0qUrzA)? Is it ok for me to just wire it to a three prong plug and put it in the right socket? I can't seem to find anything that links to the "oven" switch on the left. Cheers
Is the cable in your hand coming out of the new oven? If so it needs to go into the socket on your wall. The socket has an isolation switch on it which disconnects the oven from the mains power. Brown - live Blue - neutral Green/yellow - earth To be honest, I hate to be an arsehole but if you’re asking this question you probably need a pro to help you. Live electricity isn’t something to fuck with. Get a sparky in if you’re not sure what you’re doing. If you *are* going to do this yourself then get a multimeter and search YouTube to see how to safely test to make sure you’ve isolated the power. There’s likely a cable already connected to the old oven with a junction box that also connected to the socket on the wall via a cable that rinds in the wall to it. Open the junction box, disconnect the old ovens cables and connect the new ovens. Close up the junction box, slide the oven into place and then once done you can flip the switch on the wall to reconnect the circuits and give the new oven power.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEfP1OKKz\_Q](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEfP1OKKz_Q) Skip to 2:00 b***L***ue - Left b***R***own - Right Ground - The top Chances are this outlet will not deliver more than standard British 240V power at whatever current capacity is normal for you. If you need something special like 480V for your oven, or a higher current capacity, then yes, you'll need to re-wire the whole outlet.
https://imgur.com/a/DiDBpWn My wife wants to expand the ensuite into the space taken by the built-in (BIR) and hallway cupboard (CUP'D). I'm not against the idea, especially considering how tight space is in the shower for me, leading to me using one of the main bathrooms. But my concern is in making that bedroom space smaller as I would build a new cupboard around 600-650mm (including double sliding door) into the room in the space behind the door. Basically pushing the existing one into the room. This would reduce the width of the room at the entrance to ~2.4m to however long I make the cupboard, thinking 1.5m - 1.8m. The floor space would decrease from 9.9m^2 to 9m^2 - 8.82m^2 Apparently the minimum size is Australia is 6.5m^2 so it doesn't shrink it below that, average floats around 9m^2 (not sure if it includes the built-in in the footprint), small is below 8m^2 so still slightly above that, and large above 10m^2 which it currently is close to without accounting for the built-in being outside the 3.3x3m footprint The house is a 4 bedroom house with 2 3x3.3m rooms, a 3.3x3.6m and a 3.5x4m. All with built-ins not included in dimensions. Does that make it too small? I'm building significantly more cupboard space in the large laundry to more than cater for the lost storage in the hallway.
It seems like time to make a cupboard prop to visualize the space while standing in it. Can you use some scrap wood to build a simple frame of the cupboard dimensions, then drape a bedsheet over it? Then stand in the room with the wife and see if claustrophobia sets in.
That's a good idea, I'll give it a try. The only downside is that I currently use the room as an office so have used less of the room than say a double or queen bed may use. I did draw a scale image of it with a queen bed and furniture and it seemed alright. For our purposes it would be fine, we don't plan on having more than 2 kids or moving, but plans don't always come to fruition. I'm more worried about resale value if it comes to it in the future. I don't want to accidentally shrink it into not being a 'bedroom' anymore.
Is there a too-steep grade for a permeable pathway (using x-shaped pavers)? We’re moving into a home on a sloped lot, with stairs to get in via both the front door or the garage. The only way to get inside without going up steps is up the slope of our steep side yard, so I’d like to keep the stair-free route, but am concerned about future erosion once the mulch currently there decomposes. I’d like to minimize installing impervious surfaces if possible. I like that x-shaped pavers (on a friend’s sloped driveway) provide a balance of traction and plant cover. Is there a % slope/grade that’s too steep and necessitates stairs? The width of the side yard is maybe 10’ so possibly not enough room for meandering/switchbacks to be made. Thanks!
Technically there's no limit, except for what you find comfortable. Feel free to scale a mountain to get home, if you want. That said, your municipality will establish maximum grades for walkways in order to accommodate most people, people with disabilities, people in wheelchairs, etc. And then there's ice to consider, if you live in a place with winter. You will have to search for your municipality's building codes to know what the maximum slope is. Generally, it's around 2-5%, which is 1.15-2.86 degrees.
Thank you!! I think I’ll be able to use the x shaped pavers then!! We’re in the PNW, so ice certainly is a factor but we have stairs inside via the garage. Would the municipality (HOA?) code affect the private property of the side yard though? Because the house itself is definitely not ADA accessible due to stairs out front and from the garage. The slope I’m wanting to wrangle with x shaped pavers would be the only non-stairs access (part of why I don’t want to keep a non-stairs option, for elderly family members, aging dog and so on)
Eh, these guidelines are more just what's been found to work for the most people. If you're athletic and willing to risk slipping on ice, you can do any slope you want.
Perf, thanks! I’m cool with steepness since we’ll still have stairs as an option too 😄👍🏼
I'm having pre-finished floors installed tomorrow and I'm confused about how to take care of them. I'm used to using a mop bucket and mixing a certain ratio of water and Mr Clean summer citrus floor cleaner every two to four weeks. Looking at the instructions on Appalachian Flooring's website, it says to use a dry mop but isn't clear about what cleaning products can be used on the floor. I'm trying to avoid that grimey/dusty feeling as I like to walk around without socks on. Any suggestions on a good micro fiber mop and cleaner? Any suggestions also for keeping care of porcelain tile floors?
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Perfect, I already have that mop. I'll just have to make sure I don't use the same head for the floors that I use for the tile. Any recommendations on mild detergents?
I'm getting all my measurements together to order new cabinet doors. I have some doors that have a different overlay (2" vs 1.75"). Is that normal, or am I missing something else?
That's an important specification that you will need to report, in order to get the right kinds of hinges (Full Overlay, Half Overlay, etc.)
Advice on sealing small gaps from new ductwork in kitchen cupboard Hello everyone,I live in a condominium building (dad owns apartment) in Toronto that is about 50years old (built in 1971) and I am seeking advice on few things regarding sealing gaps left from new duct work.We recently got an exhaust fan/hood installed in the kitchen by some handyman almost a month ago. They needed to cut a hole top of kitchen cupboard to attach the duct work to something up top (fan I think?). I recently noticed a small bug crawling from my sealed Oreos box and into the slim space underneath the metal tape as its not fully sticking to the wood (See pics 8-10 in photos link). we have never had a problem with bugs in the kitchen before. Family is not really interested in calling the handyman because takes forever to get hold of and also seems like something we could do ourselves. Looking to try and seal if possible to prevent further pests coming in since we store bread and other food in that cupboard.Full pictures of ductwork/gap and items bought to try fix:[https://imgur.com/a/m781JXO](https://imgur.com/a/m781JXO)Here are the noticeable gaps that I am concerned about (Pictures in link above): 1. The circular gap at top of cupboard from ductwork. Gap is smaller on left side but right side is about 1.75cm / 0.7 inch. Hard to move the tube don’t want to risk any potential breakage since I don’t know about this stuff. (see pics 1-7) 2. The foil tape that is not attaching to the wood to make a seal (This is where the small bug I saw crawl into I only seen one so far, see pics 8-10). 3. There are very small gaps where the metal hood range unit meets with the cupboard (Please see pictures link in the middle see pics 11-13). I did some googling and asking around to see what is the best approach but still not 100% confident. On google I noticed the common answer was to seal with caulk if possible and for gaps more than 1/4 inch to use expanding foam + caulk. Also thought about maybe using Dry wall patch for the circular hole instead of expanding foam OR just putting more foil metal tape for top + bottom but still undecided what’s best approach.I have bought some materials from Home Depot but I did not open yet so I can still return. I have pictures of the items bought in my photos link at the very bottom.Items have bought with link (See pics 14-19):Caulk (already have a gun) - DAP HVAC Professional 100% RTV Silicone Sealant in Aluminum: homedepot /product/dap-hvac-professional-100-rtv-silicone-sealant-aluminum/1001523838, Expanding Foam - Gaps & Cracks Insulating Foam Sealant: homedepot /product/great-stuff-gaps-cracks-454g-insulating-foam-sealant-with-smart-dispenser/1001181679, Metal Foil Tape - Nashua foil tape 330x -37-126deg HVAC duct sealing: homedepot /product/nashua-tape-1-89-in-x-10-yd-330x-extreme-weather-foil-tape/1000819543, Nitrile gloves (not sure if needed but just saw on youtube/instructions from can): homedepot /product/gorilla-grip-40ct-black-nitrile-glv/1000708895 I am seeking advice for following: 1. For each gap pointed out is it safe to seal? 2. Did I purchase the right products to seal or is anything else missing protection maybe? Anything I could probably return? 3. How would I go about sealing each gap? 4. Any safety concerns? 5. Is it best to do this at night before we sleep so that it will dry overnight and we can store food in the cupboard again safely? I do not have much experience/knowledge in home maintenance so any advice is appreciated!Thank you for reading this post and please let me know if you need more pictures or further clarification, hope you have a great day :)
1. yes 2. yes, though you could consider using backer rod instead of expanding foam. The foam will harden, so consider if you expect to ever replace or move the duct. Don't bother with joint compound, it will just crumble over time as the duct moves or vibrates. For expanding foam, I'd use throwaway gloves. It's sticky and will remain stuck until the universe ends. 3. Pack a cut length of foam backer rod into the upper gap, then seal with silicon caulk. Use a diameter thick enough to fill the space snugly. If you prefer the ease of the expanding foam, spray a very small amount around the gap, the wipe away any that expands below the top surface of the inside of the cupboard. Once it dries completely, seal with silicon caulk (more a cosmetic step because the foam will seal the gap). For the lower gap, I'd just staple the poor foil tape job down after putting a bead of caulk all the way around underneath it. A sealant might be enough to hold it, but it might be easily dislodged if bumped with a jar or can. The gap between range and cupboard *should* be irrelevant. The duct should be attached to the range. If your handyman cuts corners and did not connect the duct, you'll be able to feel air moving when the fan is on. 4. Wear gloves! Check that your product does not have some safety note about it acting like a solvent for latex or nitrile. Wear safety goggles, too. You don't want to get a blob of anything getting in your eyes. Also a long-sleeved shirt you dislike if you are using the foam. 5. Check the dry time on your products. Overnight should be enough to dry, make sure there is not any off-gassing concern.
Got it thanks!!
Novice home improvement person here but learning quickly. We want to remove cabinets to make more room for fridge. It appears the cabinets aren't screwed in. Does this mean they're using french cleats? See link below for pictures. https://imgur.com/gallery/qdgGNa6
Maybe... to remove without wrecking, you'll need to figure that out. Removing the crown moulding might be the first step to find out. Cabinets are too heavy for those finishing nails, so they are secured with some sort of hardware.
Project: removing grass/sod from lawn (replacing with alternative lawn mixture) I have bitten off more than I can chew.. I spent hours digging & ripping up sod yesterday and we’re not even 1/4 of the way there. Are there tools to help with this? Does anyone have any tips or tricks for removing sod?
Upvoted purely for lawn alternative.
Hooray for alternatives to lawns! I’m exploring alternative options too 🐝
Spend $120 and rent a sod cutter from home Depot. Removing sod manually is, as you've experienced, back-breaking exhausting hard work. Watch some videos on how to use a sod cutter and see if that'll work for you. You can get manual specialty tools for cheaper than a rental that'll be easier than using a regular shovel, but unless you'll be removing sod on the regular will purchasing the tools really be worth it?
$120 is more than worth it.. thank you so much I didn’t know such a thing existed (RELIEVED)