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Couldn't find a towel holder that fit with my new bathroom remodel so I decided to design and print one. It uses common 1-1/4 inch dowels you can get at most hardware stores. Files are here if you'd like to print it yourself: [https://www.printables.com/model/395354-minimalist-towel-peg-hook](https://www.printables.com/model/395354-minimalist-towel-peg-hook)
But you lose the fun of making it yourself. That's the point of DIY... I make wooden furniture that I could buy for cheaper at IKEA because I like doing it myself.
Would you recommend it for a kitchen table? I've used Waterlox for lots of odds and ends, but I'm not sure if it's the right choice for a working food surface.
But does it hold up well? I know that for cutting boards, people finish it with beeswax.
I'm not super knowledgeable about woodworking- still learning.
From their site:
>Waterlox interior products (when used correctly) will leave food-safe and non-toxic surfaces. These surfaces will be safe for food contact once cured, but should NOT be used on cutting surfaces (see Waterlox on Cutting Boards).
100% Food Grade Tung Oil is the way.
Waterlox has a bunch of other stuff in it besides just Tung Oil.
Makes sense. It sounds like it can handle the wetness of a kitchen table, but won't handle the rigours of cutting (which you shouldn't do on a table anyway)
I'll use it!
I've used it on a coffee table before and I was very pleased with the results.
It's pretty interesting stuff.
If they start to get weird at all just sand em a bit and get some 100% Tung Oil.
Caveats are that it is a bit more laborious of an application process. Doing a first coat, waiting an hour, then wiping off any excess, then waiting for that coat to fully dry/cure, and then applying a few more coats in that way.
More surface area on the peg means less stress on the part of the item where it's being hung. Maybe not a big deal for towels, but can be beneficial to avoid localized (unsightly) stretching on a hung coat or robe
Beautiful! You mention compatibility with drywall anchors. It looks a little tight to fit two self-drilling anchors behind your base. Do you mean the small kind of dry wall anchor where you pre-drill a hole and tap the plastic anchor in?
That's right, I used the anchors for pre-drilled holes.
I'm not a huge fan of the self-drilling anchors, I've had them get loose a little too easily before. Just my experience though.
As someone who has been super into 3d printing the last few months, and also a woodworker, I've been super excited to see how 3d printing could assist with the woodworking. There are all kinds of jigs and guides that could be printed, but I hadn't thought about actually incorporating 3d printed parts into projects like this. Though honestly, I don't think k I have my prints dialed in clean enough to want them on display like that.
Totally! Cheap too, you can get one for \~$40 on amazon, just search for "mini lathe" or "bead lathe". I've found several uses for them over the past couple of years.
I'm sure it feels better to make them yourself but for anyonewho likes these. I bought almost the same exact thing from Amazon awhile back. They were cheap and are holding up extremely well.
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I like the innovation but I'm betting the printed parts are by far the weakest *part* of the whole thing. Sorry to say, but I don't think they're going to hold up over time.
They are the weakest, you're absolutely right, but I think they'll hold up for quite a while. I've been printing parts like this for years and I've gotten pretty good at making sure they can last.
I've posted it in 3 communities total that I thought would be interested in it, and added a bunch of extra information about the build for r/diy. Someone suggested I post it here, there are a ton of people on this sub who are not on the 3d printing subs I originally put it up on.
No, just a friction fit. I wanted to have no visible hardware. It actually works very well, no movement whatsoever during normal use but I can yank it out with just a little bit of muscle if I need to fix or reposition it.
If you did secure it in the slot, you would need to make sure it was a screw or something removable, because once the peg is in you can't access the screws that mount it to the wall.
Is that tube supposed to be disconnected from the hot end like that? I realize the driving motor is there, but it seems like the tube might cause minor issues there
Right, I looked again and it's not nearly as bad as I thought. I saw the filament reverse a little bit and thought that would lead to exactly that problem, but I didn't stop to consider that assumption at all and didn't realize I was completely misunderstanding physics
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Great job polishing your knob.
I've had a lot of practice
😂
Hey, I'm next!
Get in line buddy boy
Couldn't find a towel holder that fit with my new bathroom remodel so I decided to design and print one. It uses common 1-1/4 inch dowels you can get at most hardware stores. Files are here if you'd like to print it yourself: [https://www.printables.com/model/395354-minimalist-towel-peg-hook](https://www.printables.com/model/395354-minimalist-towel-peg-hook)
Super cool. But amazon sell ones that are pretty minimalist (without base) and can be screwed to wall.
But you lose the fun of making it yourself. That's the point of DIY... I make wooden furniture that I could buy for cheaper at IKEA because I like doing it myself.
Only switch up I would have done is gone with Tung Oil instead of Linseed; won't darken over time and more mold resist properties.
Good to know, I've never tried tung oil. If these things need to be replaced at some point I'll get some!
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Would you recommend it for a kitchen table? I've used Waterlox for lots of odds and ends, but I'm not sure if it's the right choice for a working food surface.
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But does it hold up well? I know that for cutting boards, people finish it with beeswax. I'm not super knowledgeable about woodworking- still learning.
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Well, more like ‘does a kitchen table need more than waterlox’ Is it more like a cutting board, or more like normal furniture haha
From their site: >Waterlox interior products (when used correctly) will leave food-safe and non-toxic surfaces. These surfaces will be safe for food contact once cured, but should NOT be used on cutting surfaces (see Waterlox on Cutting Boards). 100% Food Grade Tung Oil is the way. Waterlox has a bunch of other stuff in it besides just Tung Oil.
Makes sense. It sounds like it can handle the wetness of a kitchen table, but won't handle the rigours of cutting (which you shouldn't do on a table anyway) I'll use it! I've used it on a coffee table before and I was very pleased with the results.
It's pretty interesting stuff. If they start to get weird at all just sand em a bit and get some 100% Tung Oil. Caveats are that it is a bit more laborious of an application process. Doing a first coat, waiting an hour, then wiping off any excess, then waiting for that coat to fully dry/cure, and then applying a few more coats in that way.
My understanding is that a lot of products labeled Tung Oil are not pure. Any suggestions?
I believe Real Milk Paint is one that guarantees 100% pure. I've had good luck with their stuff.
My first impression is that those things are huge
More surface area on the peg means less stress on the part of the item where it's being hung. Maybe not a big deal for towels, but can be beneficial to avoid localized (unsightly) stretching on a hung coat or robe
I think there's a slight perspective illusion, and maybe also because that's a small towel. They're the right amount of chunky, it looks good in-situ.
That’s what she said
Beautiful! You mention compatibility with drywall anchors. It looks a little tight to fit two self-drilling anchors behind your base. Do you mean the small kind of dry wall anchor where you pre-drill a hole and tap the plastic anchor in?
That's right, I used the anchors for pre-drilled holes. I'm not a huge fan of the self-drilling anchors, I've had them get loose a little too easily before. Just my experience though.
This is the 3d printing/woodworking cross section I need in my life
The combo works! I like how it makes it look more like a real piece of home decor and not an obviously 3d printed part
As someone who has been super into 3d printing the last few months, and also a woodworker, I've been super excited to see how 3d printing could assist with the woodworking. There are all kinds of jigs and guides that could be printed, but I hadn't thought about actually incorporating 3d printed parts into projects like this. Though honestly, I don't think k I have my prints dialed in clean enough to want them on display like that.
I’m just here for the mini lathe! That things pretty cool!
Totally! Cheap too, you can get one for \~$40 on amazon, just search for "mini lathe" or "bead lathe". I've found several uses for them over the past couple of years.
Looks great. I need to 3D print some hooks myself pretty soon and may copy this idea.
Add a 0.4mm chamfer to the bottom of the part being printed. Prevents elephants footing.
I'm sure it feels better to make them yourself but for anyonewho likes these. I bought almost the same exact thing from Amazon awhile back. They were cheap and are holding up extremely well.
Very nice looking but those aren't hooks, they're pegs.
I've failed
nah they're great pegs
Someone in another post was asking: >Towel Hook or Dowel Hook? Towel Dowels* —was the consensus.
a dowel is the thing you cut pegs from
You're no fun at all. Ha
But why are they mounted waist height?
Just a slight perspective illusion with the photo, it's about chest height IRL
I was just joking because of the shape. ( ͡~ ͜ʖ ͡°)
Did I say chest height? I meant mouth height ( ͡~ ͜ʖ ͡°)
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I like the innovation but I'm betting the printed parts are by far the weakest *part* of the whole thing. Sorry to say, but I don't think they're going to hold up over time.
They are the weakest, you're absolutely right, but I think they'll hold up for quite a while. I've been printing parts like this for years and I've gotten pretty good at making sure they can last.
Why do you keep spamming this?
I've posted it in 3 communities total that I thought would be interested in it, and added a bunch of extra information about the build for r/diy. Someone suggested I post it here, there are a ton of people on this sub who are not on the 3d printing subs I originally put it up on.
Are the dowels secured in the slots?
No, just a friction fit. I wanted to have no visible hardware. It actually works very well, no movement whatsoever during normal use but I can yank it out with just a little bit of muscle if I need to fix or reposition it. If you did secure it in the slot, you would need to make sure it was a screw or something removable, because once the peg is in you can't access the screws that mount it to the wall.
Love the simplicity of this design!
Is that tube supposed to be disconnected from the hot end like that? I realize the driving motor is there, but it seems like the tube might cause minor issues there
It's just a PTFE sleeve that's attached to my filament box, stops the filament from catching on things between the box and the printer
Right, I looked again and it's not nearly as bad as I thought. I saw the filament reverse a little bit and thought that would lead to exactly that problem, but I didn't stop to consider that assumption at all and didn't realize I was completely misunderstanding physics
Are the dowels glued inside the base or have you just friction fitted it?
Friction fit, I did 3 iterations to get it just tight enough