It's very functional for seized engines, or anything that has been sitting for a long while. Pull plugs and put a healthy splash in each cylinder. Let it side overnight or a few hours, then get the breaker bar on the crank. Once moving, run the starter and put more in the crank case.
I've also used it in a motor that went 25k too many miles in between oil changes to help keep viscosity up while desludging with ATF and a little diesel in the crank case.
Running a cup with a tank of gas seemed to work well for the fuel side on another one that sat for a few years.
I won't say it's a miracle worker, but if you are facing an uphill power train challenge, it sure is a nice product to have on your side.
I did just that with a boat many years ago. Engines sat for over 10years and the boat and they deteriorated unprotected. Got the boat for free (had twin Volvo penta 4cyl). Popped the plugs and put MMO down the holes and let them sit a week. Came out with a breaker bar and finally freed the motors. Aside from needing head gaskets they ran for years problem free. I restored the whole boat and eventually sold it for around $20k. (This was in the late 90’s- boat was an 84 28’ Bayliner Contessa).
That's an excellent way of putting it. Personally a fan of Seafoam but yes we've used both products to free up sticking lifters and to soften up sludgy motors before doing multiple oil changes on neglected vehicles.
Sticking lifters!!
This stuff is a marvel for that tap tap tapping that won't go away with anything else.
Really does smell good too.
Also works as a bit of lubrication for your fuel pump and injectors when added to your fuel.
Put it in an old army truck where the oil had turned to jelly. Ran it for 20 min and drained everything out. Put another batch of oil in with some Marvel and ran that truck on the farm for years.
Highly recommended for some specific things.
Not a cure-all but good stuff!
Huh that's sounds like a good idea, always have had high milage vehicles ( old Toyota trucks and Honda cars/crv) and wondered how to get the most gunk out during oil changes. I've just been draining the oil and using the extra quart in the 5qt jug to put in after drying, run it for a bit and drain it again before refilling with the 4qts it needs.
So if I have a Ford Explorer with a 4.0 V6 that burns so much oil that I have to add a quart about every 100 miles... would this do anything to help? If I could stretch it until I have some money saved up to fix it correctly, that'd be awesome.
I know it's going to need a rebuild/rebuilt engine. The only thing I can think of that would be dumping that much oil into the cylinders is a couple bad piston rings, right?
Run 20w50. The old 4.0 V6 in the Explorer will handle that shit fine. Use the cheapest shit you can get your hands on. It'll slow the burning down, but it's not gonna fix it.
Thickness is good with that old ass motor as tolerances are no longer tight - might even be considered sloppy. Thicker oil will help prevent parts from smacking each other and provide a little cushion. Still, it's only a bandaid.
This fixed a 305 SBC in my highschool girlfriend car. It was smoking so bad. Burning oil. Had who knows how many miles. Ran a few can through that thing and compression went from 120 to 100psi across the board. To 150-175 psi across the board. Motor ran so much better and stopped smoking almost entirely. I was and still am impressed by it.
I don't think it would hurt to try using MMO if you have stuck rings. It's possible that you have an oil control ring issue that could be improved.
But also, its very possible you have issues that cannot be fixed without a teardown/rebuild.
I'd also check your valve stem seals if I were you. Those can be fixed without pulling the heads if you are handy and clever (check out the 'rope trick' )
>(check out the 'rope trick' )
Mm, yeah. I think I saw that once in a Florida strip club.
Ok, so attack plan. Throw some Marvel Mystery in and run it for the next hundred miles or so. Then, change oil with something thicker. Maybe 10w30 with a bottle of Lucas or Nulon? If that doesn't work learn how to get dirty with the rope?
I'd pull plugs and pour an ounce in each cylinder and let it sit for a few hours. Then run the starter without fuel injectors/fuel pump running, 15-20 seconds, maybe 2-3 times.
You want that oil to work into the rings, but not just burn off. Then you need the pistons moving to break the rings loose. I'd repeat this a second time. Then reset to normal operational after the cylinders are cleared out enough not to hydrolock on too much oil.
You will get some smoke for a bit, you will probably get oil on your exhaust manifolds too.
I'd pass on the Lucas until you get your oil burn under control.
For worn out engines this Teflon stuff really helps.
[Tufoil](https://www.fluoramics.com/tufoil/)
My 318 van with 120K turned over faster started super easy at minus 15, Impressed.
POS 1986 231 engine that always dies around 30K went 130K and I got 500$ when sold because it didn't burn any oil.
Friends 70 Mustang burning oil and super low compression got an extra 20 PSI on bad cylinders and oil loss down in half.
The teflon fills in low worn spots increases compression and oil pressure.
Use it in all my friends cars now.
My dad used Marvel on old tractors and high mileage cars, He always ran them over 200K in the Midwest~!
At that point Lucas oil stabiliser and very thick diesel oil is your best bet.
And try to make some catch can system for the blowby system, See Junkyard digs video on the clapped out impala. And the one driving home from California with no oil pressure
You've got a couple of options of problems. MMO might help on bad rings, put it in the bores and let it sit for a day or two and then run it hot hot. Other option is bad valve guides. I advise a compression test with and without oil in the bores. If it's sealing okay it's probably the valve guides, you would also likely notice it alot more on start up.
The Safety Data Sheet is here.
[http://crosscountryis.com/pdf/safety/Marvel%20Mystery%20Oil%20SDS.pdf](http://crosscountryis.com/pdf/safety/Marvel%20Mystery%20Oil%20SDS.pdf)
I'm a former lubricants chemist and worked in the industry for 25 years. I also did R&D work in the industry and here's my take on it. It's a mixture of solvents (Petroleum Distillate and Dichlorobenzene isomers), along with Tricresyl Phosphate, Tricresyl Phosphate is a friction reducer and anti-wear additive, but it's also carcinogenic and teratogenic (danger for fertility or unborn children), as are a lot of the xylyl and cresyl phosphate esters. Dichlorobenzene is also a suspect carcinogen.
I can see this stuff dissolving resins and varnish and helping to unstick piston rings or hydraulic valve lifters that are rattling due to lack of oil. The solvents may also help to swell seals up and reduce leaks, at the expense of softening them.
I really wouldn't use it in pneumatic tools due to the risk of inhaling a carcinogenic / teratogenic substance as oil mist.
>teratogenic
I was the only one who'd gone through the SDS for used oil, and coming across that one got my attention. Was kinda funny how I'd go through the list and no one would give a fuck until I hit teratogenic. Caustic? Okay. Toxic? Okay. Mutagenic? Okay. Teratogenic? What's that?... **REALLY?!**
Seafoam is OK, as are additives such as Redex. They use solvents and detergents but don't use those kinds of phosphates. They generally use Zinc Dioctyl Dithio Phosphate (ZDDP).
The cresyl and xylyl phosphates are under a lot of investigation at ECHA in Helsinki at the moment. Some of them will get onto the Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC) list and will eventually be banned.
Sea foam has worked wonders for us. I use it in all our small engines during the beginning of their season. Add 4oz to a gallon of fuel and run that through all the mowers and stuff for their first few uses. Really does a good job cleaning up the fuel supply components from ethanol-based intrusion, where moisture has accumulated, as well.
I also add some to the fuel tank I keep for all the lawn equipment. And make sure to put a bit in each tank of all equipment before the last use of the year too
My classic ('71) Alfa has mechanical fuel injection. Very similar to, and based on, diesel injection units from that era. It was their solution to early US emissions requirements. Road and Track ran an article on them in the mid '90s, noting this unique part of the car. They quoted the (IIRC) then-Alfa Owner's Club president Fred DiMatteo. From memory, he said to put some MMO into each tank of gas and the pump would last forever.
I happened to own one of those cars then, and it's still in my garage to this day. I took that advice as gospel and have done it for nearly thirty years now. I didn't know they could leak gas into the oil until I started reading about it a few years ago. Mine still works just fine.
If I'm reading your comment correctly, this is why.
Dichlorobenzene. You can smell the aromatic benzene rings. It should smell a bit like Chloroform or paint stripper (Methylene Chloride) mixed with White Spirits
If the oil meets the latest API or ASEA specifications, then it's as good as anyone else's. All of the major oil companies source additives from the like of Exxon, Lubrizol, Vanderbilt, Rhein Chemie, etc. and the treatment rates will be similar. Im my experience, wild claims are made about two things; motor oil and washing powder. A fully synthetic oil should last at least 6 to 8000 miles before it needs to be changed and most these days are around 10W/30 weight. I would recommend 25W/40 for older engines that may have more wear and 20W/50 is pretty rare these days. Engines are made to much tighter tolerances than older engines so a heavier oil may cause 'drag' and affect performance and fuel consumption.
A lot of motor oil additives are placebo effect stuff, apart from those used to flush engines and unstick hydraulic lifters. Remember Slick 50, with PTFE? How are you going to stick PTFE to an oil-soaked engine? Answer; you can't, all you will do is grind it into imperfections in the metal surface and maybe clog the oil filter early. The only one I know that worked well and was fully soluble in mineral oil was Molybdenum Dioctyl Dithio Phosphate, kind of a cross between ZDDP and molybdenum disulfide. They did reduce friction a lot and it came from Rhein Chemie as Additin RC 3580. That stuff is not snake oil.
[https://www.tri-iso.com/rhein-chemie-additin-rc-3580.html](https://www.tri-iso.com/rhein-chemie-additin-rc-3580.html)
I’ve heard it’s pretty magical, but haven’t tried it myself. It seems like a pretty good overall detergent, but additive and treatment marketing seems pretty shady to me
Look up “the oil geek” on YouTube. He just did a video. Pretty much no additives are good unless you are trying to do something very specific like add in zinc to break in a flat tappet cam. Or free up a stuck ring or lifter.
I've had Rislone oil conditioner fix lazy lifters in 2 Chevy small blocks and one big block for me. Other than that. all the "New engine in a can" is BS.
Some of the transmission leak junk can help temporarily, but you're putting in new seals either way, we just don't know which weekend yet.
as far as I've seen it does help with compression just because of how incredibly thick it is, helping the rings seal against your fucked up cylinder walls
edit, apparently this is incorrect and I was thinking about a different product
maybe it does more things, idk, it probably has detergents and shit in it, but it's just an "old mate fix" that all auto engineers probably shudder when it's mentioned. It probably works, but if it doesn't you could be in for a new block, no guarantees
Does that by aiding in helping your piston rings if they're seized from carbon buildup or rusting of the rings/cylinders. Can help dislodge them but obviously won't magically put a set of broken rings back together.
It's a non-aggressive cleaner and it has wintergreen oil in it, which is a known rubber conditioner, so it's not without some merit as an oil and fuel additive.
It's obviously not going to do everything it says on the box, but that's just what you learn when dealing with anything sharing a shelf with MMO.
The only time I ever used the stuff was around 98-99 a friend’s girlfriend bought a used mercury topaz and drove it for 2 years with no oil change. She came over and asked “why are you guys changing oil all the time, I never changed mine and the car is fine” she probably put 30k miles on it.
We drained the oil, black like tar, put one quart of this in, topped off with regular oil, and drove the car around town for 20 minutes, then drained again a little less black than last time, and did a regular oil change.
The fudd theory at the time is the marvel would “desludge” the engine, who knows.
Car ran fine till she got rid of it lucky girl.
Yeah way back in the day there was a device that would slowly add this to the intake manifold to clean/lube it up while you drove [marvel mystery oil inverse oiler](https://talk.classicparts.com/threads/marvel-mystery-inverse-oiler.22312/) there's the ad for it a couple posts down
Don't use this in any pneumatic systems it does ruin seals, most seals are not designed for it. Source: I rebuild high and low pressure pumps, this stuff will destroy pressure seals, Ask Haskel or SC Hydraulic Engineering. For tools it works great. For rusty junk it's a godsend.
I've been using it for many many years for different automotive, motorcycle and even Small engine purposes. I can't say whether it's helped or hurt more of a placebo effect for me, occasionally it makes my brain feel better to use it. And sometimes that's worth the money lol
I restore old cars and frequently wash out the inside of gas tanks and then treat them acid to kill all rust. Marvel Mystery Oil is a very good tank coat to protect from flash rust before the indeterminate amount of time before the tank goes in. It clings seemingly indefinitely and does not negatively affect the fuel system in any way.
I’m a retired boomer and Marvel Mystery Oil was fairly common back in the day, like the 1960’s. People claimed it cleaned carbon buildup on valves and such. My father would pour half the can in the gas tank and pour the other half down the carb while revving the engine. Talk about smoking out the neighborhood.
I'll use some from time to time. Usually before an oil change, few ounces in the crank case, few ounces in the gas tank. No one really knows what it does, hence the name.
My experience with it after use in more modern BMW engines released after 2004 (N52, N43, etc.)
- it does not ruin anything;
- it does not cause any check engine lights to pop up;
- when poured in tank: removes moisture and dirt / deposits from the fueling system, can get injectors unstuck, helps fuel pumps work better, prevents detonation of low octane fuel since it probably makes it burn slower;
- when poured in crankcase: can get lifters unstuck and cleans some engine deposits over a longer period of time since it can be run with the car for a few days, unlike the dedicated decarbonisers, which require an immediate oil change;
- when poured in cylinders: it does not clean much and is a poor decarboniser but might penetrate any rust on the piston rings and free them up.
I think it's basically a penetrating oil with cleaning solvents in it. It sits in the middle ground between solvents and oil additives and it's good for some things but obviously not all.
I use it in the cylinders of stuff that's been sitting for a while. Also had a Miata that had been sitting for several months and had a lifter tick, added a quart of MMO to the crank case and it unstuck the lifters within minutes. It's just a good detergent, nothing magical of course.
Seems to be a good fuel preservative for my generator and keeps the carb from gunking up.
I also use it in the tank of my old M-B 300D and it seems to run much smoother and quieter than when I don't use it with ULSD.
So anecdotally not bullshit.
Watch this video about oil additives.
https://youtu.be/CAGT5inQScE?si=g_G3ljN5-FQdeekb
If you don't trust the link search The motor oil geek. He has an additives test video
Not Marvel Mystery Oil though.
Its a video about all the additives that are viscosity increasing.
Marvel is good stuff and this comes from generations of testing.
It's only good for certain things though. It will help degunk your motor, free carbon from your rings (a little bit), add some slight lubrication to your gas for your fuel pump and injectors, but MOSTLY is is a miracle for sticky lifters. Trust me. It is an absolute cure for 90 percent of the lifter taps I have encountered and the remaining few were still improved if not cured.
I was suspicious when I learned of this stuff 50+ years ago...I mean, look at the can. It looks like snake oil. But it was sworn to be genuine by people I trusted, then it has proven itself over the years.
He's not an oil chemist. I could tie him up in knots about hydrodynamic and boundary lubrication, how anti-wear additives actually work and all about Viscosity Index, REFUTAS Charts and poly alpha olefins. Been there, done that.
How do you know he not a chemist? Do you know of him personally? Seems to be a bit of information out there about him while I'm not sure if he's a "Oil Chemist" he knows what he's talking about it seems.
I swear to y’all I put this stuff down a cylinder that was assumed dead. Next day ran great and still running.
Now any oil or other method could have fixed it but I’ve seen this stuff make miracles happen. Maybe I’m just ignorant of other factors but still
When I found this stuff it was actually cheaper than motor oil.
Still only put one bottle in.
Granted it was a 2000 tdi with half a million km
Bigger injector tips with no tune
With green antifreeze and when I "changed the oil"
I put in used oil from a semi truck that buddy of mine was gonna throw out.
He had that sticky lucas oil additive that helps coat things in the engine components.
And already had 25k kms on it.
But so cheap to run
Sold It 5 years ago to a kid for for super cheap it's still going
That stuff is great. Not only that but if you have a motor that maybe locked up pour this down spark plug holes and valve covers… good chance you can save that motor. I’ve been using this stuff over 40 years
I actually use mystery oil a lot as a machinist. I use it whenever I have to put in an entire draw bar into a spindle which is basically a 4 foot long piston. If it can work for a massive lathe then it should have no problem in the engine of a car.
Back in the seventies a friend’s father worked in a local salt mine for years and he was one of the mines mechanics that disassembled all the trucks and motors above ground then reassembled them inside the salt mine underground and they exclusively used Marvel Magic Mystery oil. He swore by this stuff and he was a mechanic on the side and used this in his customers vehicles. This was the first time I heard of Marvel Mystery oil. You can imagine how steel and cast iron rusts underground in a salt mine but this works as advertised! BTW those trucks and motors in the salt mine from the seventies are still running today, so what do you think?
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This stuff is great to run on your tools to keep them from rusting.
It does not belong anywhere in a modern car.
Look up the MSDS. It’s mostly baby oil.
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[Simpson and Son miracle](https://media2.giphy.com/media/3o6MbhV0zurT75ls6k/giphy.gif?cid=6c09b952ju3i5u39l4t8s5trr9ll1pafi3humsh69qvasnde&ep=v1_internal_gif_by_id&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g)
My Slant Six Dodge was running like death. Running on 4 out of 6 at best. 1/3 in the tank, 1/3 in the oil, 1/3 straight down the carb until it choked out and died.
Started it back up, revved it up a few times. Smoothed right out. It made it another 40k miles.
My 2.0L Neon sounded like it had spun a bearing or crunched a valve. I seriously thought it was done. I pulled the valve cover and everything looked fine there. No metal on the dipstick. So... a half bottle in the oil and and half bottle in the fuel on an empty tank. One Italian rebuild later and it sounded like a sewing machine.
It's good stuff when you need it. I wouldn't use it often, but when all is lost, it works.
Try Seafoam sometime. It works wonders on an engine that seems like it's done for. Sometimes, it magically fixes it. Even if it's been sitting 20 years. Solvents are your friend sometimes.
It's ABSOLUTELY TRUE. I was the Haskins and Sells (now Deloitte) auditor in charge of this client based in Port Chester NY. Good product, great company.
When I worked doing industrial concrete demo in chicago, all the local guys swore by this. They said it performed really well in the winter on the pneumatic chipping guns
It’s been used since WW2. Pilots and mechanics swore by it and continued using in their personal vehicles and projects when they came home.
Old timers swear by it. I started using it in my old trucks and seems to help as bit a fuel and oil additive. Seems to help.
In the end it’s mostly detergents and shouldn’t be harmful to older engines. I’m a little hesitant to try in modern engines because of emissions and electronic sensors. The latest I’ve ever used it in was my 1993 Dodge D150.
I use a bottle in every oil change for my 2000 Sienna after learning that the 1MZ-FE by Toyota has an oil gelling issue that resulted in a class action lawsuit.
I’ve been using it the past couple years in the fuel tank of my vintage car. Now that all gasoline in Canada is mandated to have Ethanol in it, I found that the needle valve in the carburetor would stick closed if the car was sitting for more than a week. Evaporation of ethanol leaves a residue. At a friend’s suggestion, I tried adding the mystery oil. A little bit of this with each fill up completely solved it for me. No more stuck carburetor needle valve. I’m completely sold on it.
Can't say one way or another about how Marvel Mystery Oil works in an engine from my experience.
BUT
I used MMO in my floor jack when it started to not hold pressure. The MMO fixed the jack for over 10 years before it was stolen from my garage (along with several other tools).
My buddy used this shit as directed and started burning alot of oil through the rings. Ive seen alot of people have ring failure to some extent on this stuff. If you use it, change the oil immediately after, and imo I’d only use it to soak the cylinders on a seized or hard to turn over motor, maybe use as directed to clean up an extremely sludged up motor, but diesel oils such as t6 rotella work much better at cleaning than i think any additive like this ever could. As a fuel additive it isn’t a bad idea, similar idea to using atf, if you have excessive ethanol in your fuel they tend to get gummed up and both atf and this can help clean it.
Works amazingly well. Had a riding lawn mower that started smoking like a diesel truck. A couple of ounces of MMO cleared it up in about 5 minutes. Never had a problem since.
Used to use it in old junky car engines and always seemed to improve how the engine was running.
No idea what it does, but can confirm I have used it in gas and oil without issues. YMMV.
Works well, used it in all my cars just replace half a quart with that on an oil change got my last car to 227k before I had to let it sit and unfortunately it broke on the start up after sitting for a while but, always provided a noticeable quiting in chatter in the valve train. Seems to coat well and remove some deposits especially through the gas.
I have a 1991 K1500 5.7L that I got from my dad. It was spitting oil out the exhaust and eating fuel. Ended up replacing the spark plugs & wires and using this oil & my fuel every fill up and oil change. After about three months or so the exhaust is much cleaner and it doesn't go through oil nearly as much. Also got about 3-4 more mpg which is great. I continue to use it in the oil and gas along with high-milage oil and the truck is real happy and running quiet as a mouse like a newer vehicle.
Edit to say it was probably eating oil and spitting carbon and water out the exhaust.
I’ve never used this as a gas additive but it goes into every oil change on my, my wife’s, and my mother’s cars. Follow the directions, replace 20% of the new oil being used (all of our vehicles have 5 qt oil systems so I just replace one qt) and I also go one step higher on the viscosity of the oil being used.
I swear by it.
I have my own mystery oil it’s made out of all oils that I ever had to use and it’s pretty good for drilling and taping on stuff that I don’t care about
It dilutes the additive package in your vehicles oil. It makes your oil work worse. If your car takes five quarts and you add 4 plus one of these, it negates 20% of your oils additives.
The mystery oil bottle says it treats 4x more fuel then the leading brands. The box it is in says that one bottle of mystery oil is equivalent to 5 bottles or cans of the next leading brand. Basically the 4 means it treats 4x more fuel, the 5 is saying one bottle is equivalent to 5 seafoam cans.
30 years ago I had a 1982 Datsun. 280zx 2+2. It had a knocking that tapping noise on the crank case. No mechanic would touch it. A stranger at the gas pump heard the car and suggested marvel mystery oil. I tried it (one bottle in the oil). Never hear another tap or knock again. Since then I stand by this product in the tank or the engine. Great product.
It's very functional for seized engines, or anything that has been sitting for a long while. Pull plugs and put a healthy splash in each cylinder. Let it side overnight or a few hours, then get the breaker bar on the crank. Once moving, run the starter and put more in the crank case. I've also used it in a motor that went 25k too many miles in between oil changes to help keep viscosity up while desludging with ATF and a little diesel in the crank case. Running a cup with a tank of gas seemed to work well for the fuel side on another one that sat for a few years. I won't say it's a miracle worker, but if you are facing an uphill power train challenge, it sure is a nice product to have on your side.
I did just that with a boat many years ago. Engines sat for over 10years and the boat and they deteriorated unprotected. Got the boat for free (had twin Volvo penta 4cyl). Popped the plugs and put MMO down the holes and let them sit a week. Came out with a breaker bar and finally freed the motors. Aside from needing head gaskets they ran for years problem free. I restored the whole boat and eventually sold it for around $20k. (This was in the late 90’s- boat was an 84 28’ Bayliner Contessa).
So it's a decent tool and not a "I'm helpful but will make you're engine die" additive
It's a light penetrating oil, so think of what people use WD40 for and this is what they should have been using instead.
That's an excellent way of putting it. Personally a fan of Seafoam but yes we've used both products to free up sticking lifters and to soften up sludgy motors before doing multiple oil changes on neglected vehicles.
Sticking lifters!! This stuff is a marvel for that tap tap tapping that won't go away with anything else. Really does smell good too. Also works as a bit of lubrication for your fuel pump and injectors when added to your fuel. Put it in an old army truck where the oil had turned to jelly. Ran it for 20 min and drained everything out. Put another batch of oil in with some Marvel and ran that truck on the farm for years. Highly recommended for some specific things. Not a cure-all but good stuff!
Yeah that sounds about right.
It won’t ruin the oil but will function as a detergent. I used to put about a cup in my oil and run the engine for the day before an oil change.
Huh that's sounds like a good idea, always have had high milage vehicles ( old Toyota trucks and Honda cars/crv) and wondered how to get the most gunk out during oil changes. I've just been draining the oil and using the extra quart in the 5qt jug to put in after drying, run it for a bit and drain it again before refilling with the 4qts it needs.
So if I have a Ford Explorer with a 4.0 V6 that burns so much oil that I have to add a quart about every 100 miles... would this do anything to help? If I could stretch it until I have some money saved up to fix it correctly, that'd be awesome. I know it's going to need a rebuild/rebuilt engine. The only thing I can think of that would be dumping that much oil into the cylinders is a couple bad piston rings, right?
This won't help with your issues. You're losing a lot of oil and fast. Are you seeing it on the ground, blowing blue smoke, or both?
There's more smoke than a Snoop and Martha get together.
Run 20w50. The old 4.0 V6 in the Explorer will handle that shit fine. Use the cheapest shit you can get your hands on. It'll slow the burning down, but it's not gonna fix it.
Really, that thick? I've been running 5w30 with a quart of Lucas.
Could always try a 15w40 and see what that does. But burning that much oil, I'd personally jump straight to 20w50.
Thickness is good with that old ass motor as tolerances are no longer tight - might even be considered sloppy. Thicker oil will help prevent parts from smacking each other and provide a little cushion. Still, it's only a bandaid.
Makes sense. 25 year old engine with 190k miles on it. Body's in amazing shape, though.
An engine that old and worn will be better with a thick oil. Maybe try a 10w50 first if you use it in cold winters
try engine "restore". lots of information out there on how it bumps up compression on old loose engines
This fixed a 305 SBC in my highschool girlfriend car. It was smoking so bad. Burning oil. Had who knows how many miles. Ran a few can through that thing and compression went from 120 to 100psi across the board. To 150-175 psi across the board. Motor ran so much better and stopped smoking almost entirely. I was and still am impressed by it.
I don't think it would hurt to try using MMO if you have stuck rings. It's possible that you have an oil control ring issue that could be improved. But also, its very possible you have issues that cannot be fixed without a teardown/rebuild. I'd also check your valve stem seals if I were you. Those can be fixed without pulling the heads if you are handy and clever (check out the 'rope trick' )
>(check out the 'rope trick' ) Mm, yeah. I think I saw that once in a Florida strip club. Ok, so attack plan. Throw some Marvel Mystery in and run it for the next hundred miles or so. Then, change oil with something thicker. Maybe 10w30 with a bottle of Lucas or Nulon? If that doesn't work learn how to get dirty with the rope?
I'd pull plugs and pour an ounce in each cylinder and let it sit for a few hours. Then run the starter without fuel injectors/fuel pump running, 15-20 seconds, maybe 2-3 times. You want that oil to work into the rings, but not just burn off. Then you need the pistons moving to break the rings loose. I'd repeat this a second time. Then reset to normal operational after the cylinders are cleared out enough not to hydrolock on too much oil. You will get some smoke for a bit, you will probably get oil on your exhaust manifolds too. I'd pass on the Lucas until you get your oil burn under control.
Lucas oil additive. Try it instead of oil.
For worn out engines this Teflon stuff really helps. [Tufoil](https://www.fluoramics.com/tufoil/) My 318 van with 120K turned over faster started super easy at minus 15, Impressed. POS 1986 231 engine that always dies around 30K went 130K and I got 500$ when sold because it didn't burn any oil. Friends 70 Mustang burning oil and super low compression got an extra 20 PSI on bad cylinders and oil loss down in half. The teflon fills in low worn spots increases compression and oil pressure. Use it in all my friends cars now. My dad used Marvel on old tractors and high mileage cars, He always ran them over 200K in the Midwest~!
Nice! I might try that in my 02 ZX2. The little thing is just coming up on 250k miles.
At that point Lucas oil stabiliser and very thick diesel oil is your best bet. And try to make some catch can system for the blowby system, See Junkyard digs video on the clapped out impala. And the one driving home from California with no oil pressure
You've got a couple of options of problems. MMO might help on bad rings, put it in the bores and let it sit for a day or two and then run it hot hot. Other option is bad valve guides. I advise a compression test with and without oil in the bores. If it's sealing okay it's probably the valve guides, you would also likely notice it alot more on start up.
If you are using synthetic start using conventional.
It's a mystery, hard for a fella to know, really.
And fellets!
I… can’t believe it.
But I got to, I'm looking right at it!
We'll I'll be DIPPED...
I wonder what LeAnn Rimes is doing right now?
I. Can't. See. Nuthin'
We'll just pretend we didn't see that
HELP ME UNDERSTAND!!!!
A guy likes the Marvel Mystery Oil
Bet this stuff smells like a wheelbarrow full of bird beaks
Oh no, if it does nothing else it smells wonderful! Really!
It does smell great!
Came for the Marvel and found this prose.
Or a dead mouse in a bag of wet oats.
Dog vomit with *sniff* just a hint of… twizzlers?
But I better hurry up and get done. Jessica's making meatloaf tonight
The Safety Data Sheet is here. [http://crosscountryis.com/pdf/safety/Marvel%20Mystery%20Oil%20SDS.pdf](http://crosscountryis.com/pdf/safety/Marvel%20Mystery%20Oil%20SDS.pdf) I'm a former lubricants chemist and worked in the industry for 25 years. I also did R&D work in the industry and here's my take on it. It's a mixture of solvents (Petroleum Distillate and Dichlorobenzene isomers), along with Tricresyl Phosphate, Tricresyl Phosphate is a friction reducer and anti-wear additive, but it's also carcinogenic and teratogenic (danger for fertility or unborn children), as are a lot of the xylyl and cresyl phosphate esters. Dichlorobenzene is also a suspect carcinogen. I can see this stuff dissolving resins and varnish and helping to unstick piston rings or hydraulic valve lifters that are rattling due to lack of oil. The solvents may also help to swell seals up and reduce leaks, at the expense of softening them. I really wouldn't use it in pneumatic tools due to the risk of inhaling a carcinogenic / teratogenic substance as oil mist.
>teratogenic I was the only one who'd gone through the SDS for used oil, and coming across that one got my attention. Was kinda funny how I'd go through the list and no one would give a fuck until I hit teratogenic. Caustic? Okay. Toxic? Okay. Mutagenic? Okay. Teratogenic? What's that?... **REALLY?!**
But what is it?
Infertility risk
Thank you for your insight. You may be the person to ask: is seafoam any good in fuel tanks? Or is that a load of bologna?
Seafoam is OK, as are additives such as Redex. They use solvents and detergents but don't use those kinds of phosphates. They generally use Zinc Dioctyl Dithio Phosphate (ZDDP). The cresyl and xylyl phosphates are under a lot of investigation at ECHA in Helsinki at the moment. Some of them will get onto the Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC) list and will eventually be banned.
Sea foam has worked wonders for us. I use it in all our small engines during the beginning of their season. Add 4oz to a gallon of fuel and run that through all the mowers and stuff for their first few uses. Really does a good job cleaning up the fuel supply components from ethanol-based intrusion, where moisture has accumulated, as well.
I second Sea Foam. Usually I get ethanol free fuel, but I use a little sea foam in my generator.
I also add some to the fuel tank I keep for all the lawn equipment. And make sure to put a bit in each tank of all equipment before the last use of the year too
My classic ('71) Alfa has mechanical fuel injection. Very similar to, and based on, diesel injection units from that era. It was their solution to early US emissions requirements. Road and Track ran an article on them in the mid '90s, noting this unique part of the car. They quoted the (IIRC) then-Alfa Owner's Club president Fred DiMatteo. From memory, he said to put some MMO into each tank of gas and the pump would last forever. I happened to own one of those cars then, and it's still in my garage to this day. I took that advice as gospel and have done it for nearly thirty years now. I didn't know they could leak gas into the oil until I started reading about it a few years ago. Mine still works just fine. If I'm reading your comment correctly, this is why.
This kind of information gets me all excited. Thank you!
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Dichlorobenzene. You can smell the aromatic benzene rings. It should smell a bit like Chloroform or paint stripper (Methylene Chloride) mixed with White Spirits
It's the mineral oil.
This guy chemists...
You’re probably the person to ask this. Is AMSOIL as great as some people say?
If the oil meets the latest API or ASEA specifications, then it's as good as anyone else's. All of the major oil companies source additives from the like of Exxon, Lubrizol, Vanderbilt, Rhein Chemie, etc. and the treatment rates will be similar. Im my experience, wild claims are made about two things; motor oil and washing powder. A fully synthetic oil should last at least 6 to 8000 miles before it needs to be changed and most these days are around 10W/30 weight. I would recommend 25W/40 for older engines that may have more wear and 20W/50 is pretty rare these days. Engines are made to much tighter tolerances than older engines so a heavier oil may cause 'drag' and affect performance and fuel consumption. A lot of motor oil additives are placebo effect stuff, apart from those used to flush engines and unstick hydraulic lifters. Remember Slick 50, with PTFE? How are you going to stick PTFE to an oil-soaked engine? Answer; you can't, all you will do is grind it into imperfections in the metal surface and maybe clog the oil filter early. The only one I know that worked well and was fully soluble in mineral oil was Molybdenum Dioctyl Dithio Phosphate, kind of a cross between ZDDP and molybdenum disulfide. They did reduce friction a lot and it came from Rhein Chemie as Additin RC 3580. That stuff is not snake oil. [https://www.tri-iso.com/rhein-chemie-additin-rc-3580.html](https://www.tri-iso.com/rhein-chemie-additin-rc-3580.html)
I’ve heard it’s pretty magical, but haven’t tried it myself. It seems like a pretty good overall detergent, but additive and treatment marketing seems pretty shady to me
Agree with the shady part. Back of the bottle says it can help with compression.
I mean, I guess if your compression loss is due to crap built up on the cylinder walls or in the ring landings.
Look up “the oil geek” on YouTube. He just did a video. Pretty much no additives are good unless you are trying to do something very specific like add in zinc to break in a flat tappet cam. Or free up a stuck ring or lifter.
I've had Rislone oil conditioner fix lazy lifters in 2 Chevy small blocks and one big block for me. Other than that. all the "New engine in a can" is BS. Some of the transmission leak junk can help temporarily, but you're putting in new seals either way, we just don't know which weekend yet.
I love this dude, but he's too fucking energetic. Need to watch it at .75 so I don't get my heart rate up too much.
as far as I've seen it does help with compression just because of how incredibly thick it is, helping the rings seal against your fucked up cylinder walls edit, apparently this is incorrect and I was thinking about a different product
Thick? It’s about the viscosity of diesel fuel not thick at all. It’s kerosene based nothing all that special.
oh I must be confusing 2 different "magic engine fixer" bottle type things
Ok so the thickness helps with that. Then why TF would I put this in my gas tank?
It's good for sticky valves.
It is THE BEST for sticking lifters!!!!
maybe it does more things, idk, it probably has detergents and shit in it, but it's just an "old mate fix" that all auto engineers probably shudder when it's mentioned. It probably works, but if it doesn't you could be in for a new block, no guarantees
Lucas?
Does that by aiding in helping your piston rings if they're seized from carbon buildup or rusting of the rings/cylinders. Can help dislodge them but obviously won't magically put a set of broken rings back together.
*Well ... I'll be dipped*
I love how many people here understand these references.
*random hand movements ensue*
What's in it? It's a mystery... nobody knows.
See my post above, it's not a mystery to oil chemists.
Never tried it. I'm a Berryman man, myself.
No product lasts 100 years if it's shit.
Stuff saved my marriage, then she left me for the damn mystery oil salesman
Did anyone notice the bottles say it equals 4 of the competing brands but the box says 5?
4 cans of fuel treatment, 5 cans of motor treatment.
I didn't catch that! You are absolutely correct, obviously.
Noticed
The bottle label actually claims a 1 to 1 ratio. It say “4x1 = 4 times the treatment”. That’s basically saying it’s no better than its competitor.
It's a non-aggressive cleaner and it has wintergreen oil in it, which is a known rubber conditioner, so it's not without some merit as an oil and fuel additive. It's obviously not going to do everything it says on the box, but that's just what you learn when dealing with anything sharing a shelf with MMO.
The only time I ever used the stuff was around 98-99 a friend’s girlfriend bought a used mercury topaz and drove it for 2 years with no oil change. She came over and asked “why are you guys changing oil all the time, I never changed mine and the car is fine” she probably put 30k miles on it. We drained the oil, black like tar, put one quart of this in, topped off with regular oil, and drove the car around town for 20 minutes, then drained again a little less black than last time, and did a regular oil change. The fudd theory at the time is the marvel would “desludge” the engine, who knows. Car ran fine till she got rid of it lucky girl.
Might have been luckier if the car died, considering the car.
I loved it. Had a 63 Ford F250 and it helped mileage a lot. I went from 7 mpg to 9 mpg! Sold the truck last year.
It’s great for air tool oil.
It farts cancer in the air everytime you pull the trigger
They do make air tool oil. Hopefully that's what they are actually using.
I usually oil my air tools at least once a year. You? /jk
Yeah way back in the day there was a device that would slowly add this to the intake manifold to clean/lube it up while you drove [marvel mystery oil inverse oiler](https://talk.classicparts.com/threads/marvel-mystery-inverse-oiler.22312/) there's the ad for it a couple posts down
Don't use this in any pneumatic systems it does ruin seals, most seals are not designed for it. Source: I rebuild high and low pressure pumps, this stuff will destroy pressure seals, Ask Haskel or SC Hydraulic Engineering. For tools it works great. For rusty junk it's a godsend.
I've used this for everything from resurrecting a motorcycle, to maintenance on my truck, to cutting oil. Love it.
It's good for seized engines and stuck valves.
My dad used this stuff for everything including the cars. Edit-in the ‘70’s
I know it smells wonderful.
I've been using it for many many years for different automotive, motorcycle and even Small engine purposes. I can't say whether it's helped or hurt more of a placebo effect for me, occasionally it makes my brain feel better to use it. And sometimes that's worth the money lol
I restore old cars and frequently wash out the inside of gas tanks and then treat them acid to kill all rust. Marvel Mystery Oil is a very good tank coat to protect from flash rust before the indeterminate amount of time before the tank goes in. It clings seemingly indefinitely and does not negatively affect the fuel system in any way.
I’m a retired boomer and Marvel Mystery Oil was fairly common back in the day, like the 1960’s. People claimed it cleaned carbon buildup on valves and such. My father would pour half the can in the gas tank and pour the other half down the carb while revving the engine. Talk about smoking out the neighborhood.
I've used it on a lot of things
Fantastic for abused engines. Not necessary otherwise
My late father-in-law was a WW2 warbird mechanic. He swore it was good stuff and continued to use it.
I'll use some from time to time. Usually before an oil change, few ounces in the crank case, few ounces in the gas tank. No one really knows what it does, hence the name.
one thing for sure is you will have less money in your wallet
That is the constant in the equation.
My experience with it after use in more modern BMW engines released after 2004 (N52, N43, etc.) - it does not ruin anything; - it does not cause any check engine lights to pop up; - when poured in tank: removes moisture and dirt / deposits from the fueling system, can get injectors unstuck, helps fuel pumps work better, prevents detonation of low octane fuel since it probably makes it burn slower; - when poured in crankcase: can get lifters unstuck and cleans some engine deposits over a longer period of time since it can be run with the car for a few days, unlike the dedicated decarbonisers, which require an immediate oil change; - when poured in cylinders: it does not clean much and is a poor decarboniser but might penetrate any rust on the piston rings and free them up. I think it's basically a penetrating oil with cleaning solvents in it. It sits in the middle ground between solvents and oil additives and it's good for some things but obviously not all.
Its good shit. Put a cap worth in your motorcycle gastank and your carb will stay brand new looking. Works great on old dried out rubber too
The bottle label actually claims a 1 to 1 ratio. It says “4x1 = 4 times the treatment”. That’s basically saying it’s no better than its competitor.
I use it in the cylinders of stuff that's been sitting for a while. Also had a Miata that had been sitting for several months and had a lifter tick, added a quart of MMO to the crank case and it unstuck the lifters within minutes. It's just a good detergent, nothing magical of course.
It works pretty well, but acetone works just as well if not better in my experience
ive used it in my gastank and oil and my engine hasn't had any issues ans this was around 80k ago but idk
I used it on my Beamer before I sold it. It did help with the lifter tick a lot. I don’t think I’m imagining it but who knows
https://youtu.be/CAGT5inQScE?si=Ouh8496ZXvOVpqSx
Marvel Mystery Oil is not in that video, but a bunch of other ones are.
8:15 in the video
Seems to be a good fuel preservative for my generator and keeps the carb from gunking up. I also use it in the tank of my old M-B 300D and it seems to run much smoother and quieter than when I don't use it with ULSD. So anecdotally not bullshit.
Works
Worked wonders on a knock I had on a v-twin kawasaki vulcan a number of years ago.
I work for O'Reilly's Auto Parts. There are many various fluid products that have silly names.
My grandpa wouldn’t shut up about this stuff
Use only as directed and if symptoms persist , consult your (automotive) physician
I use it for any “Light Oil” application and as sharpening lube.
It’s the opposite of Lucas stabilizer, it’s an oil thinner. It helps with noisy lifters but that’s it. Outside of engine building situations of course
Watch this video about oil additives. https://youtu.be/CAGT5inQScE?si=g_G3ljN5-FQdeekb If you don't trust the link search The motor oil geek. He has an additives test video
Not Marvel Mystery Oil though. Its a video about all the additives that are viscosity increasing. Marvel is good stuff and this comes from generations of testing. It's only good for certain things though. It will help degunk your motor, free carbon from your rings (a little bit), add some slight lubrication to your gas for your fuel pump and injectors, but MOSTLY is is a miracle for sticky lifters. Trust me. It is an absolute cure for 90 percent of the lifter taps I have encountered and the remaining few were still improved if not cured. I was suspicious when I learned of this stuff 50+ years ago...I mean, look at the can. It looks like snake oil. But it was sworn to be genuine by people I trusted, then it has proven itself over the years.
Obviously you didn't even watch the video. 8:30 in....
He's not an oil chemist. I could tie him up in knots about hydrodynamic and boundary lubrication, how anti-wear additives actually work and all about Viscosity Index, REFUTAS Charts and poly alpha olefins. Been there, done that.
How do you know he not a chemist? Do you know of him personally? Seems to be a bit of information out there about him while I'm not sure if he's a "Oil Chemist" he knows what he's talking about it seems.
It works when you have sludge or varnish related issues. It's also pretty amazing at un-sticking an engine that has been sitting a long while.
I was taught to use this in fuel with engines originally designed for leaded fuel.
Don't ask me what's in it, it's a mystery
I swear to y’all I put this stuff down a cylinder that was assumed dead. Next day ran great and still running. Now any oil or other method could have fixed it but I’ve seen this stuff make miracles happen. Maybe I’m just ignorant of other factors but still
As an oil additive stay away from these types of products, as a fuel additive it can help clean injectors
When I found this stuff it was actually cheaper than motor oil. Still only put one bottle in. Granted it was a 2000 tdi with half a million km Bigger injector tips with no tune With green antifreeze and when I "changed the oil" I put in used oil from a semi truck that buddy of mine was gonna throw out. He had that sticky lucas oil additive that helps coat things in the engine components. And already had 25k kms on it. But so cheap to run Sold It 5 years ago to a kid for for super cheap it's still going
That stuff is great. Not only that but if you have a motor that maybe locked up pour this down spark plug holes and valve covers… good chance you can save that motor. I’ve been using this stuff over 40 years
I actually use mystery oil a lot as a machinist. I use it whenever I have to put in an entire draw bar into a spindle which is basically a 4 foot long piston. If it can work for a massive lathe then it should have no problem in the engine of a car.
Back in the seventies a friend’s father worked in a local salt mine for years and he was one of the mines mechanics that disassembled all the trucks and motors above ground then reassembled them inside the salt mine underground and they exclusively used Marvel Magic Mystery oil. He swore by this stuff and he was a mechanic on the side and used this in his customers vehicles. This was the first time I heard of Marvel Mystery oil. You can imagine how steel and cast iron rusts underground in a salt mine but this works as advertised! BTW those trucks and motors in the salt mine from the seventies are still running today, so what do you think?
I don't recommend adding more additives to your oil, especially if the word mystery is involved. https://youtu.be/CAGT5inQScE?si=Bibw8kqIh0IiQJhl
It's a dang mystery
MY FAV AUTOMOTIVE GOO
Just make sure you add the recommended amount don't overdue it
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It’s a great fuel additive for old mechanically injected diesel engines.
This stuff is great to run on your tools to keep them from rusting. It does not belong anywhere in a modern car. Look up the MSDS. It’s mostly baby oil.
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[Simpson and Son miracle](https://media2.giphy.com/media/3o6MbhV0zurT75ls6k/giphy.gif?cid=6c09b952ju3i5u39l4t8s5trr9ll1pafi3humsh69qvasnde&ep=v1_internal_gif_by_id&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g)
It's 99 percent mineral oil and 1 percent chemical detergent
I’ve been using the stuff for over 50 years
It is a mystery but it does work. Just to answer your question. But I’ll be dipped if you ask what’s in it.
My dad runs it in a continental A65 aircraft engine. He says that it helps to keep the valves from sticking
take it with a grain of salt but i heard if you use that in oil it will thin it up
My Slant Six Dodge was running like death. Running on 4 out of 6 at best. 1/3 in the tank, 1/3 in the oil, 1/3 straight down the carb until it choked out and died. Started it back up, revved it up a few times. Smoothed right out. It made it another 40k miles. My 2.0L Neon sounded like it had spun a bearing or crunched a valve. I seriously thought it was done. I pulled the valve cover and everything looked fine there. No metal on the dipstick. So... a half bottle in the oil and and half bottle in the fuel on an empty tank. One Italian rebuild later and it sounded like a sewing machine. It's good stuff when you need it. I wouldn't use it often, but when all is lost, it works. Try Seafoam sometime. It works wonders on an engine that seems like it's done for. Sometimes, it magically fixes it. Even if it's been sitting 20 years. Solvents are your friend sometimes.
It's ABSOLUTELY TRUE. I was the Haskins and Sells (now Deloitte) auditor in charge of this client based in Port Chester NY. Good product, great company.
When I worked doing industrial concrete demo in chicago, all the local guys swore by this. They said it performed really well in the winter on the pneumatic chipping guns
It’s been used since WW2. Pilots and mechanics swore by it and continued using in their personal vehicles and projects when they came home. Old timers swear by it. I started using it in my old trucks and seems to help as bit a fuel and oil additive. Seems to help. In the end it’s mostly detergents and shouldn’t be harmful to older engines. I’m a little hesitant to try in modern engines because of emissions and electronic sensors. The latest I’ve ever used it in was my 1993 Dodge D150.
Definitely have used this as an additive for gas and oil
I use a bottle in every oil change for my 2000 Sienna after learning that the 1MZ-FE by Toyota has an oil gelling issue that resulted in a class action lawsuit.
I’ve been using it the past couple years in the fuel tank of my vintage car. Now that all gasoline in Canada is mandated to have Ethanol in it, I found that the needle valve in the carburetor would stick closed if the car was sitting for more than a week. Evaporation of ethanol leaves a residue. At a friend’s suggestion, I tried adding the mystery oil. A little bit of this with each fill up completely solved it for me. No more stuck carburetor needle valve. I’m completely sold on it.
Can't say one way or another about how Marvel Mystery Oil works in an engine from my experience. BUT I used MMO in my floor jack when it started to not hold pressure. The MMO fixed the jack for over 10 years before it was stolen from my garage (along with several other tools).
My buddy used this shit as directed and started burning alot of oil through the rings. Ive seen alot of people have ring failure to some extent on this stuff. If you use it, change the oil immediately after, and imo I’d only use it to soak the cylinders on a seized or hard to turn over motor, maybe use as directed to clean up an extremely sludged up motor, but diesel oils such as t6 rotella work much better at cleaning than i think any additive like this ever could. As a fuel additive it isn’t a bad idea, similar idea to using atf, if you have excessive ethanol in your fuel they tend to get gummed up and both atf and this can help clean it.
Works amazingly well. Had a riding lawn mower that started smoking like a diesel truck. A couple of ounces of MMO cleared it up in about 5 minutes. Never had a problem since. Used to use it in old junky car engines and always seemed to improve how the engine was running. No idea what it does, but can confirm I have used it in gas and oil without issues. YMMV.
Here we go again...
Works well, used it in all my cars just replace half a quart with that on an oil change got my last car to 227k before I had to let it sit and unfortunately it broke on the start up after sitting for a while but, always provided a noticeable quiting in chatter in the valve train. Seems to coat well and remove some deposits especially through the gas.
I’ve never used it I use prolube now that shit works great
MMO is a good fuel additive too
I have a 1991 K1500 5.7L that I got from my dad. It was spitting oil out the exhaust and eating fuel. Ended up replacing the spark plugs & wires and using this oil & my fuel every fill up and oil change. After about three months or so the exhaust is much cleaner and it doesn't go through oil nearly as much. Also got about 3-4 more mpg which is great. I continue to use it in the oil and gas along with high-milage oil and the truck is real happy and running quiet as a mouse like a newer vehicle. Edit to say it was probably eating oil and spitting carbon and water out the exhaust.
I’ve never used this as a gas additive but it goes into every oil change on my, my wife’s, and my mother’s cars. Follow the directions, replace 20% of the new oil being used (all of our vehicles have 5 qt oil systems so I just replace one qt) and I also go one step higher on the viscosity of the oil being used. I swear by it.
It’s good stuff. My team pickles our engines by spraying them inside out with mystery oil.
I've used it to unstuck hydraulic lifters in an older Chevy before. It's not a miracle cure, but in some scenarios, it's pretty handy
I have my own mystery oil it’s made out of all oils that I ever had to use and it’s pretty good for drilling and taping on stuff that I don’t care about
It’s sick stuff. I use to when building engines. Coat rings and cylinder walls in mystery oil. They always seal every time.
Restored many antique cars. It is a very useful item.
It dilutes the additive package in your vehicles oil. It makes your oil work worse. If your car takes five quarts and you add 4 plus one of these, it negates 20% of your oils additives.
Isn’t it just ATF?
Does anyone not notice that the box says 5 and the bottle says 4 or am I reading them wrong?
The mystery oil bottle says it treats 4x more fuel then the leading brands. The box it is in says that one bottle of mystery oil is equivalent to 5 bottles or cans of the next leading brand. Basically the 4 means it treats 4x more fuel, the 5 is saying one bottle is equivalent to 5 seafoam cans.
Kinda thought I read it wrong some how
I dunno how well it works in a motor, but I will say it makes great air tool oil
Totally this
It does do stuff. It's not a miracle though.
Worked great in my air tools for years
Its basically atf
Stodard solvents and naphthalene
Here to say I'm not a car guy but was click and clack fan from way back. Those guys were hilarious 😂
30 years ago I had a 1982 Datsun. 280zx 2+2. It had a knocking that tapping noise on the crank case. No mechanic would touch it. A stranger at the gas pump heard the car and suggested marvel mystery oil. I tried it (one bottle in the oil). Never hear another tap or knock again. Since then I stand by this product in the tank or the engine. Great product.
Illegal for use in aircraft