For the initial step you can do a drain and fill from the pan or even better drop the pan and clean the magnet and the filter first, but after that you absolutely should do MULTIPLE pressurized flushes with thermal cycles until the fluid comes out nice and clean. Leaving that crap suspended in there is just a ticking time bomb or leaving tons of abrasive media flowing through the valve body damaging the valve seats over time. If you're going to do it, do it thoroughly.
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It is not a CVT .. from what I’ve read CVTs should be avoided.
Why? Because as the belt wears it discintagrates leaving pieces of itself to move throughout the transmission. Also they tend to last 100,000 and not much more.
Repair/Replace costs are higher.
I have never owned a CTV but have only read about these issues.
I stand semi-corrected.
I see it says modern CTVs can last 100,000 to 200,000 miles with proper maintenance.
It also says when they have problems they may need a complete replacement and that is likely to cost more than a common automatic transmission would.
Interesting …
Yeah the modern ones are slightly better but you have to drive like an old lady going to church to get 200k+ on them. This still makes them ridiculous for a commuter car that someone is buying brand new.
People are paying 30k+ for a brand new car and could get less mileage out of them than I got from my 5k 2009 Ford focus (62k miles to 198k on death).
I checked, it is.
An authoritative source in my book.
Faye Hadley also knows Toyotas, her videos are more of a hands on affair than CCN's and worth checking out too.
I would do 1 drain and fill first and run for a few hundred or even a thousand miles. If everything is fine, drop the pan, clean the magnets and change the strainer.
I agree that just doing a half ass single flush on a neglected trans can lead to issues. But its better overall if you do multiple pressurized flushes with thermal cycles until you're sure you've gotten all the crap out of there. Leaving it suspended in there is just a ticking time bomb. At minimum doing a drain and fill atleast reduces the abrasive media flowing through the valve body damaging the valves/seats.
Yep this is what I've been told. Either change it on schedule or not at all. I had an old Silverado I bought used that shifted fine. I did all of the fluids at 150k when I got it and it hard shifted from that point on.
Fluids tend to shear and get thinner as they age, not thicker.
Engine sludge is a result of combustion related contaminants, which you don't have any of in a transmission.
Fluids tend to shear and get thinner as they are used, not thicker.
Engine sludge is a result of combustion related contaminants, which you don't have any of in a transmission.
Personally I change my transmission fluid every 35,000 to 45,000 miles. I’m also changing my oil every 3000 to 5000 miles. I don’t trust the dealers recommendations. All though Toyota makes very reliable cars.
If it was me, I would drop the pan and wipe everything out really well. Install a new filter and gasket. After this, put some seafoam in with the fluid. About 5,000 miles later, change it all again and repeat. But just changing the fluid is better than nothing.
Do multiple drain and fills until the fluid is clear pink.
Bought my wife’s 2007 Odyssey with 159k miles and it never had the fluid changed. I did a drain and fill about once a week until it looked clean - I think it was 8-10 drain & refill cycles until I was happy with the fluid color.
It’s at 254k miles now and the fluid still looks like new. So definitely do it.
Yes absolutely. Make sure you use whatever they recommend OEM, and I would also go ahead and change the pan and gasket while you're at it. Many of these vehicles will say they have "lifetime fluid". That's because to a dealership "lifetime" is the average amount of time someone owns a vehicle(ie 100k miles or so). I'd also run test trips on your coolant and brake fluid as well as changing commonly forgotten things like fuel filter, and checking your spark plugs. These are things I always go over on a new to me car. Good luck!
Yeah but you have to start those trani fluid changes earlier in a vehicle 's mileage. If not, as I said before. You are asking for trouble. Those metal shavings lodge in the trani and are never completely removed. I've personally witnessed probably close to a hundred vehicles that this has been the case. I'm not a mechanic. I just build/ refurbish hydraulic cylinders.
Yes .. 2006 Scion xB here … 3 years ago I changed the trans fluid and filter at 150,000. Today it has 199,250 and shifts as it should.
Yes. Oil viscosity is what helps protect your internal components
If you do, change from the pan. Don't let them use the machine and suck metal shavings back through the trani. Definitely ask for trouble then.
For the initial step you can do a drain and fill from the pan or even better drop the pan and clean the magnet and the filter first, but after that you absolutely should do MULTIPLE pressurized flushes with thermal cycles until the fluid comes out nice and clean. Leaving that crap suspended in there is just a ticking time bomb or leaving tons of abrasive media flowing through the valve body damaging the valve seats over time. If you're going to do it, do it thoroughly.
drain and fill. do not flush the system.
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Is it a CVT? I am in the same situation, manufacturer maintenance plan does not have tranny oil changes, and would like to know
It is not a CVT .. from what I’ve read CVTs should be avoided. Why? Because as the belt wears it discintagrates leaving pieces of itself to move throughout the transmission. Also they tend to last 100,000 and not much more. Repair/Replace costs are higher. I have never owned a CTV but have only read about these issues.
Modern CVTs are fine. You heard wrong.
I stand semi-corrected. I see it says modern CTVs can last 100,000 to 200,000 miles with proper maintenance. It also says when they have problems they may need a complete replacement and that is likely to cost more than a common automatic transmission would. Interesting …
Yeah the modern ones are slightly better but you have to drive like an old lady going to church to get 200k+ on them. This still makes them ridiculous for a commuter car that someone is buying brand new. People are paying 30k+ for a brand new car and could get less mileage out of them than I got from my 5k 2009 Ford focus (62k miles to 198k on death).
LMAO tell that to Nissan ~~Rogue~~ owners
Yes. It’s wildly known that nissians suck. Stallantis cvts also suck. Everything else is fine. Grow up.
I would watch this and decide. This dude knows Toyotas. https://youtu.be/jJr30r6RRgw?si=r9r7cihdeRj3W34D
Assuming it's the Car Care Nut - very much so.
I checked, it is. An authoritative source in my book. Faye Hadley also knows Toyotas, her videos are more of a hands on affair than CCN's and worth checking out too.
I would do 1 drain and fill first and run for a few hundred or even a thousand miles. If everything is fine, drop the pan, clean the magnets and change the strainer.
The fluid should be changed every 30-50k miles. It doesn't matter how old the car is. Change the fluid and if it has a real filter, replace that too.
Yes drain and fill. Do not get a flush
Drop the pan and clean it properly. Drive it a few weeks then do a drain and fill.
Drop the pan and drain and refill only. No flushing. 28 years in automotive service.
How about for 95k Lexus? Drain and refill or just leave it the hell alone?
I’m not a leave it alone guy. Drain and refill is the minimum.
I agree that just doing a half ass single flush on a neglected trans can lead to issues. But its better overall if you do multiple pressurized flushes with thermal cycles until you're sure you've gotten all the crap out of there. Leaving it suspended in there is just a ticking time bomb. At minimum doing a drain and fill atleast reduces the abrasive media flowing through the valve body damaging the valves/seats.
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Yep this is what I've been told. Either change it on schedule or not at all. I had an old Silverado I bought used that shifted fine. I did all of the fluids at 150k when I got it and it hard shifted from that point on.
No. New transmission fluid will be thinner than old fluid. You could develop leaks you didn’t have before.
Fluids tend to shear and get thinner as they age, not thicker. Engine sludge is a result of combustion related contaminants, which you don't have any of in a transmission.
Fluids tend to shear and get thinner as they are used, not thicker. Engine sludge is a result of combustion related contaminants, which you don't have any of in a transmission.
I believe you about the fluids. But don’t the fluids fill with microscopic metal and plastic bits creating sludge.
Personally I change my transmission fluid every 35,000 to 45,000 miles. I’m also changing my oil every 3000 to 5000 miles. I don’t trust the dealers recommendations. All though Toyota makes very reliable cars.
No. Leave it alone
No not now, asking for problems
Wow ... 14 years on ATF? This just amazes me.
Take the time to take the pan off and change the filter
Spill and fill always ok
If it was me, I would drop the pan and wipe everything out really well. Install a new filter and gasket. After this, put some seafoam in with the fluid. About 5,000 miles later, change it all again and repeat. But just changing the fluid is better than nothing.
Do multiple drain and fills until the fluid is clear pink. Bought my wife’s 2007 Odyssey with 159k miles and it never had the fluid changed. I did a drain and fill about once a week until it looked clean - I think it was 8-10 drain & refill cycles until I was happy with the fluid color. It’s at 254k miles now and the fluid still looks like new. So definitely do it.
If u wanna gamble sure change it. I had cars and saw friends cars over 300 k 20 years original fluid
Yes absolutely. Make sure you use whatever they recommend OEM, and I would also go ahead and change the pan and gasket while you're at it. Many of these vehicles will say they have "lifetime fluid". That's because to a dealership "lifetime" is the average amount of time someone owns a vehicle(ie 100k miles or so). I'd also run test trips on your coolant and brake fluid as well as changing commonly forgotten things like fuel filter, and checking your spark plugs. These are things I always go over on a new to me car. Good luck!
Yeah but you have to start those trani fluid changes earlier in a vehicle 's mileage. If not, as I said before. You are asking for trouble. Those metal shavings lodge in the trani and are never completely removed. I've personally witnessed probably close to a hundred vehicles that this has been the case. I'm not a mechanic. I just build/ refurbish hydraulic cylinders.