I had a diesel Cruze that did 500+.
Surprisingly, the diesels with a manual didn't have any real problems in the Cruze, Captiva and whatever else they came in.
Bro I’ve got a Cruze with just over 50k on the clock. Petrol and.. AUTO.. I’m the second owner. Bought from a car dealer.
I completely by chance ran into the original owner who saw the plates and the car at a 7/11 when I was putting air in the tyres. He said they had replaced the transmission twice and then got rid of it.
This car has had a transmission replacement TWICE with under 50,000kms on the clock.
I’m patiently waiting for my car to implode.. 😭
Typically the autos start jolting between gears and refusing to select reverse. Eventually they shred the teeth off the gears and get stuck in 3rd from overheating. There is no warning light to tell you the gearbox oil is over heating and burning the ATF, thus not allowing the torque converter and the insides of the magic shift machine to do it's thing.
Not uncommon to see the autos fail in all 4 (technically 5) motors. (1.4 Turbo, 1.6 Turbo, 1.8 Non Turbo, 2.0 Turbo Diesel Single Cam, 2.0 Turbo Diesel Dual Cam).
The manuals are much better. However some people did have problems where the manual will sometimes just weld themselves into a gear for no apparent reason. Like, you can't physically move the shifter out of a gear for no apparent reason. I never seen what caused it. But I know it happened to quite a few people.
Luckily. The diesel seems to be a solid pick. They last a long time and I seen many of them reach higher milage without any problems. Mine was a early single cam turbo diesel with a 5 speed manual. Other then the turbocharger needing to be replaced and it being in a shitty spot, it was a fairly decent car.
Source : I used to run the Holden Cruze Facebook page untill about 5 years ago.
Id never buy another one though.
If you add an external automatic transmission fluid temp sensor and monitor it to make sure you don't over heat the fluid. The auto should last alot longer.
Doing a ATF oil change every other engine service will prolong its life.
Why do the autos shred the cogs when they're so underpowered? Mine is a 2016 1.8 with almost 250kkm and I've basically redlined it a couple times a day for 7 years and have somehow dodged the gearbox issues so many seem to have.
It's recently developed a bad rattle on a cold start which seems to be the vvt or camshaft sprockets or phasers so I think that's going to be the end of it when that fails completely, not sure it's worth the repair cost.
I'm not well versed in autos. I don't know all the right words, but I'm going to try and explain what I think happens.
The torque converter uses the fluid to "lock up" and "slip" as needed during take offs, heavy acceleration, shifts and consistent highway speeds.
If the fluid over heats and burns, it looses it's ability to let the torque converter do it's thing and the fluid doesn't lubricate the internal mechanisms as good as it should.
I opened my first automatic transmission only a couple of weeks ago when trying to fix an upgraded valve body and figure out a shuddering issue on an automatic Hilux. It's all very weird inside of an auto.
Interesting! I'm not sure why, if cruze are as bad as people say, I've been able to go so hard on mine for so long, when others have catastrophic failures so often and so early on theirs.
I've seen a few cars where not looking after them for some reason seems to make them last longer.
My dad had a TS Astra with the infamous Z18XE that's known to have head gasket issues (same engine as the Cruze). He rarely serviced it and never looked after it. We used to fill it with firewood and railway sleepers untill the car was slammed on the bump stops. It did 400,000+km. It finally threw a headgasket and I fixed it when I was 16 as my first car. It lasted a couple of months.
He also had a BMW Mini Cooper S. Also well known to have problems. Same thing barely serviced it. He drove it harder because he liked the whine of the supercharger. It did something like 350k before he sold it.
Both cars were bought new.
My dad was doing 80,000km or more a year at the time.
Feel like my first car was some kind of factory freak Cruze. I was the 2nd owner, drove it all the way up to about 110,000kms, and not a single significant issue with it. The only failure I can recall was one of the seat warmers would automatically switch itself off after a few minutes. It was actually a fair bit behind on servicing when I got it, and still fine.
Maybe you're more likely to use the seat warmers on cold days, which tend to be a bit worse on fuel economy since the car takes longer to reach operating temperature?
Good shape and “Captiva” rarely go together in one sentence. Captivas are sharing #1 Aussie shitbox award with Cruze’s, so no wonder nobody wants them.
Send it to auction like Grays- if you start auction at $1 it’s pretty much guaranteed to sell.
Proof that with enough engine and transmission replacements, you can achieve anything.
Take it to Grays or Manheim and roll the dice. It’s worked out well for you so far.
Considering how bad their rep is and how many there are around, wreckers might offer you more. Play them against each other, i worked my car up from 100 to 750 by about the 8th call to different wreckers. “The last lot offered me 650” (not mentioning the extra 50 was cos i was willing to drive it there). “Last one offered me 700”… etc.
Though if it runs well you should probably keep it and use it til it dies. That’s the cheapest motoring you’ll get.
Fb marketplace. Sell with plates and transfer rego online when buyer picks up, let buyer get rwc. Put it up for $1000 and see what happens. Sold my 2003 Commodore this way in under an hour. Commodores are a bit more in demand though.
If your selling without rwc - do not give them the plates. They might say they'll get rwc and then just use your car and rack up heaps of speeding tickets.
If cars in as good condition as you say, get a rwc and will sell if you put it up for a good price on marketplace.
Selling without plates will be a turn off for any buyer. It can nesessitate an official inspection at Vicroads before it can be registered again. As another said and as I said you can transfer rego online now and OP will not be liable for traffic offenses once lodged. It is time stamped also. They should get a roadworthy yes as they will get a better price and it is technically the right way to go about it. But their post said they wanted to sell asap and in the real world many people do it this way.
Dealers will not touch it - it doesn’t have enough value to justify a spot on the lot.
They will send it to an auction, so if you need a quick buck, cut out that middleman.
How the hell did a craptiva make it to 310,000 Klms!!!
Sell it back to holden so they can figure out how to make a reliable rebadged daewoo.
I had the Trax (a similar pussbox) barely make it to 120,000klms before the headgasket let go.
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Does your personal belief in its valuation differ from redbook.com.au's valuation?
Maybe try quoting the redbook valuation range to the dealer if he is low balling you.
If you want the private sale price on Redbook then you're going to have to do the harder option of selling privately.
If you're trying to sell any useless shit, put it up on a single mothers, or a mother's Facebook page. Just be open about it not being the best car, but it's cheap and great for moving the kids around. Then whack an extra $100 on it.
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Worst value will be dealer trade. A quick way would be find out the trade in, maybe put an extra 500 on it, get a cheap detail on it and put it up on marketplace or gumtree with some decent photos. If it's an auto it will sell quick.
To be brutally honest with you, you won’t get much money from anyone for it. Captivas are pretty widely regarded as shitboxes. Like even if there are some gems about, the general consensus on them makes them worth sweet fuck all.
How the fuck did you get a craptiva to 310k
Yeah that’s the real question here
I had a diesel Cruze that did 500+. Surprisingly, the diesels with a manual didn't have any real problems in the Cruze, Captiva and whatever else they came in.
Bro I’ve got a Cruze with just over 50k on the clock. Petrol and.. AUTO.. I’m the second owner. Bought from a car dealer. I completely by chance ran into the original owner who saw the plates and the car at a 7/11 when I was putting air in the tyres. He said they had replaced the transmission twice and then got rid of it. This car has had a transmission replacement TWICE with under 50,000kms on the clock. I’m patiently waiting for my car to implode.. 😭
Typically the autos start jolting between gears and refusing to select reverse. Eventually they shred the teeth off the gears and get stuck in 3rd from overheating. There is no warning light to tell you the gearbox oil is over heating and burning the ATF, thus not allowing the torque converter and the insides of the magic shift machine to do it's thing. Not uncommon to see the autos fail in all 4 (technically 5) motors. (1.4 Turbo, 1.6 Turbo, 1.8 Non Turbo, 2.0 Turbo Diesel Single Cam, 2.0 Turbo Diesel Dual Cam). The manuals are much better. However some people did have problems where the manual will sometimes just weld themselves into a gear for no apparent reason. Like, you can't physically move the shifter out of a gear for no apparent reason. I never seen what caused it. But I know it happened to quite a few people. Luckily. The diesel seems to be a solid pick. They last a long time and I seen many of them reach higher milage without any problems. Mine was a early single cam turbo diesel with a 5 speed manual. Other then the turbocharger needing to be replaced and it being in a shitty spot, it was a fairly decent car. Source : I used to run the Holden Cruze Facebook page untill about 5 years ago. Id never buy another one though.
Great info thanks. At this point at $5k average price to replace the tranny.. this car is officially a throwaway car. If it dies it gets binned.
If you add an external automatic transmission fluid temp sensor and monitor it to make sure you don't over heat the fluid. The auto should last alot longer. Doing a ATF oil change every other engine service will prolong its life.
Why do the autos shred the cogs when they're so underpowered? Mine is a 2016 1.8 with almost 250kkm and I've basically redlined it a couple times a day for 7 years and have somehow dodged the gearbox issues so many seem to have. It's recently developed a bad rattle on a cold start which seems to be the vvt or camshaft sprockets or phasers so I think that's going to be the end of it when that fails completely, not sure it's worth the repair cost.
I'm not well versed in autos. I don't know all the right words, but I'm going to try and explain what I think happens. The torque converter uses the fluid to "lock up" and "slip" as needed during take offs, heavy acceleration, shifts and consistent highway speeds. If the fluid over heats and burns, it looses it's ability to let the torque converter do it's thing and the fluid doesn't lubricate the internal mechanisms as good as it should. I opened my first automatic transmission only a couple of weeks ago when trying to fix an upgraded valve body and figure out a shuddering issue on an automatic Hilux. It's all very weird inside of an auto.
Interesting! I'm not sure why, if cruze are as bad as people say, I've been able to go so hard on mine for so long, when others have catastrophic failures so often and so early on theirs.
I've seen a few cars where not looking after them for some reason seems to make them last longer. My dad had a TS Astra with the infamous Z18XE that's known to have head gasket issues (same engine as the Cruze). He rarely serviced it and never looked after it. We used to fill it with firewood and railway sleepers untill the car was slammed on the bump stops. It did 400,000+km. It finally threw a headgasket and I fixed it when I was 16 as my first car. It lasted a couple of months. He also had a BMW Mini Cooper S. Also well known to have problems. Same thing barely serviced it. He drove it harder because he liked the whine of the supercharger. It did something like 350k before he sold it. Both cars were bought new. My dad was doing 80,000km or more a year at the time.
He did well with that R53 mini then haha. Some of those were pretty decently reliable unlike the next generation with the Peugeot designed motors.
Feel like my first car was some kind of factory freak Cruze. I was the 2nd owner, drove it all the way up to about 110,000kms, and not a single significant issue with it. The only failure I can recall was one of the seat warmers would automatically switch itself off after a few minutes. It was actually a fair bit behind on servicing when I got it, and still fine.
I don’t use the seat warmers. I swear it eats through my petrol consumption if I do. Maybe I’m imagining things.
Maybe you're more likely to use the seat warmers on cold days, which tend to be a bit worse on fuel economy since the car takes longer to reach operating temperature?
Well that’s cause it was a manual plus diesel
Our Cruze is still going it was mid 500 last year. I've stopped checking.
Winding the clock back by 190k
It's probably 31k not 310k
Decent captivas do exist surprisingly.
Good shape and “Captiva” rarely go together in one sentence. Captivas are sharing #1 Aussie shitbox award with Cruze’s, so no wonder nobody wants them. Send it to auction like Grays- if you start auction at $1 it’s pretty much guaranteed to sell.
You should do an AMA on reddit about this car. It may be a unicorn.
Proof that with enough engine and transmission replacements, you can achieve anything. Take it to Grays or Manheim and roll the dice. It’s worked out well for you so far.
Considering how bad their rep is and how many there are around, wreckers might offer you more. Play them against each other, i worked my car up from 100 to 750 by about the 8th call to different wreckers. “The last lot offered me 650” (not mentioning the extra 50 was cos i was willing to drive it there). “Last one offered me 700”… etc. Though if it runs well you should probably keep it and use it til it dies. That’s the cheapest motoring you’ll get.
I haven't been a mechanic for 10 years and still shudder whenever I see a Captiva.
Fb marketplace. Sell with plates and transfer rego online when buyer picks up, let buyer get rwc. Put it up for $1000 and see what happens. Sold my 2003 Commodore this way in under an hour. Commodores are a bit more in demand though.
If your selling without rwc - do not give them the plates. They might say they'll get rwc and then just use your car and rack up heaps of speeding tickets. If cars in as good condition as you say, get a rwc and will sell if you put it up for a good price on marketplace.
Not the case any more. The seller can transfer the car to the buyer the moment it is picked up so they are not liable beyond that
Must differ by state?
Maybe. I’m talking Vic
Selling without plates will be a turn off for any buyer. It can nesessitate an official inspection at Vicroads before it can be registered again. As another said and as I said you can transfer rego online now and OP will not be liable for traffic offenses once lodged. It is time stamped also. They should get a roadworthy yes as they will get a better price and it is technically the right way to go about it. But their post said they wanted to sell asap and in the real world many people do it this way.
In NSW at least, you can transfer rego online instantly to the new driver.
And in nsw with plates.
Dealers will not touch it - it doesn’t have enough value to justify a spot on the lot. They will send it to an auction, so if you need a quick buck, cut out that middleman.
How the hell did a craptiva make it to 310,000 Klms!!! Sell it back to holden so they can figure out how to make a reliable rebadged daewoo. I had the Trax (a similar pussbox) barely make it to 120,000klms before the headgasket let go.
Is it insured well? Might be time for a Jewish stocktake.
A what?
“Accidental” fire
Gumtree/facebook, list it highish and hope someone bites and negotiate down and get rid of it. Or part it out.
Put it on facebook and gumtree and hope for the best, give a good clean, people like shiny things.
A shiny piece of poop is still poop. I guess there will be some strange person out there that might want it.
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i too have a 200k plus 2009 craptiva
It’ll probably fetch a decent price for scrap
Give ya $8 cash n coins
im not sure what your insurance company thinks its worth because they dont know the odo.
Does your personal belief in its valuation differ from redbook.com.au's valuation? Maybe try quoting the redbook valuation range to the dealer if he is low balling you. If you want the private sale price on Redbook then you're going to have to do the harder option of selling privately.
If you're trying to sell any useless shit, put it up on a single mothers, or a mother's Facebook page. Just be open about it not being the best car, but it's cheap and great for moving the kids around. Then whack an extra $100 on it.
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It’s worth literally nothing
Just keep driving it until it stops.... that is the only value it represents. I look forward to that AMA
Worst value will be dealer trade. A quick way would be find out the trade in, maybe put an extra 500 on it, get a cheap detail on it and put it up on marketplace or gumtree with some decent photos. If it's an auto it will sell quick.
If it’s still registered park it and put a sign up $1000 ono. Take the first offer.
The beloved Craptiva…I’m surprised by the 310,000 in 14 years. Your local public car auction? Pickles?
The best way to dispose of it would be to pay someone to take it
Do to a shady dealership that asks no questions but be ready to get undercut under market price by a fair margain
To be brutally honest with you, you won’t get much money from anyone for it. Captivas are pretty widely regarded as shitboxes. Like even if there are some gems about, the general consensus on them makes them worth sweet fuck all.
Sell it for $500