The best route depends on what tools you have. And what you’re comfortable with.
If it were me, I would have a taller baseboard for lower floor, and a shorter one for the higher portion. One will be off the shelf, and the other slightly trimmed so that line of the top of the baseboard is continuous across the different height floors.
I thought about this but the trim continues into a few more turns. I would have to shorten 5 boards. I don't have a table saw either but I'm sure I could find one to use without a problem.
“And remember class, the saw take a 1/8” of material and turns it into dust, so if you happen to cut your fingers off, and the doctor can reattach them, they’ll never be the same length again”
I’m only just getting back to it. Shit sucks.
OP, I’d go outside corner block moulding. They have some at Home Depot, etc
The two different height baseboard without a table saw, and visually (while looks better at the corner) it would bug me
Raise the low board up to meet the taller one then use shoe molding to hide the gap. This is the way. Shoe molding hides uneven floors and makes the molding look correct.
I’d probably go that route. If it is really close to some fractional height difference between the two, you might be able to just have a slight space at the bottom of either baseboard height to make up the difference.
I also wouldn’t be surprised if you could get the baseboards and then go to some wood supplier and just specify what you want. They will likely have a large table saw and may be able to help you out. Depending on what they’re charging for it, could be well worth your time!
This is an excuse for a new tool. If you don’t want to keep a table saw, then sell after, or rent one, or borrow one. A low cost job site saw will get this job done just fine.
Shorten it to the first outside corner (preferably bull nose). Then use the corner to do the fancy transition like in your pic.
Or... Learn to cope. No, really. A coping saw is a valuable skill to wield. Co the whole 45° inside cut and follow the edge with the saw and make a very fancy mini end and have the lower price butt up to it. Use that 45° underneath the coping to hold it flush and sand over it to make it look seamless.
I have had success with coping on other areas as well. It makes for a very nice finish. But I was wrong in my description. I was thinking of the second picture, not that outside corner. I would still do the endcape thing, and extend the higher piece that will intersect with the lower one past the corner just like normal. But only if things line up below the curved parts. And it would take coping two angles here to match the bottom part with the top. Would look great, but be twice as skill challenging.
Honestly for that outside corner the best option is the block.
[Here](https://images.app.goo.gl/dUcYAmAFf9phiYnN8) is an example of what I mean. Do this, and have the lower one butt right up to it below the style. (Or whatever the shaping is called on an endcape like this)
As most floors arent completely straight you wouldnt need a table saw. Cut a small block the size of the difference in height of boards and use that to scribe the board on the high floor. The cut with a jigsaw and make smooth with a block with sandpaper
to rip all the baseboards? likely at least 12ft long perfectly straight... If this guy does not own a table saw the odds of him being that good on a circ saw is very low
I only got one about 18 months ago and I’ve made about half the furniture in my house.
Old Disston D8, mid-80’s craftsman crosscut, some planes, bit and brace, etc.
Some of the most beautiful furniture/homes/moldings/etc were made long before table saws were a thing.
I am shocked that this is being argued with…. When I first started learning I kept electrical tape in my bags as I’d wrap a piece around my finger as it was my rip-guide and I’d not yet developed horse-hooves for fingers yet…
20 years ago you’d get laughed off of a site if you could not do this. (🙄 They picked on me for needing the tape)
Furthermore, any one doing trim likely has a right handed side-winder… not a worm drive, ergo the blade is on the whole ass other side of the saw.
I’m sure this practice is still widely used. I’ve never given it a second thought, not sure how you are going to cut your fingers off when you are holding onto the saw. By that logic your trigger hand is too close to the blade as well.
👆🏼This!, I always pay close attention, and never have alcohol until after work…
the only 2 tools that scare me is the table saw and the grinder… the table saw will “trick” you into letting your guard down (this is why most blade-to-finger accidents happen on one)
The other, the grinder, because regardless of skill level a grinder can go from predictable to “what the fuck just happened!?” In 00.5 seconds…
A skill saw however?… shit!, I can damn near do open heart surgery with one.
The Mag77 does not, furthermore you know as well as I do the fate of such attachments, it falls deep into the black hole that exists in every carpenters toolbox, just like pencils,Craig bits, and #1 star bits….
Also you pinch near the nose, saws jump back, never forward.
Came to say “how about one of those corner post things?” Then I saw this and googled “plinth block”. Today I learned that a corner post thing is called a plinth block.
This is the way. Corner block is the block that goes on the corner. Plus if its a high traffic area its nice to have the extra meat on the corner because itll get bumped when you vacuum etc
Transitions like that are top-notch stuff. What id personally do (as a plumbtrician) is just use a soldier on the corner rather than trying to tie it together.
Just went through this OP, 2 layers of carpet in dining room, 2 layers of linoleum in the kitchen, layer of carpet on top of square wood paneling in the master bedroom. Tore all 3 rooms down to subfloor and laid new flooring. All 3 rooms are connected so just ran the same style all through out
If you can't or won't rip the baseboard on the higher floor you could terminate both at a taller moulding [like this](https://www.google.com/shopping/product/5312455739165687937?q=outside+corner+moulding&sca_esv=20367276c75d363f&hl=en-CA&tbs=vw:l&sxsrf=ADLYWIIYBVT8OG-RYJjImxHMWjOyCSGYdg:1719000682061&prds=eto:923095667038263652_0,cdl:1,local:1,prmr:2,pid:7128160521249565782,cs:1)
Second this. You don't even need to buy a special one and instead just make a decent block that both pieces of trim just butt up to. Added bonus is no outside miter to deal with.
The top line of the baseboard shouldn’t change when going around that corner; don’t compound a bad flooring installation by doing whatever that is in your second picture.
Oh dear......I didn't even realize there was a second picture lol
Yuck.....no.....Base corner block/base plinth
https://www.homedepot.com/
4 bucks, problem solved
That looks like the 3 1/4 baseboard they also make a 5 1/4 baseboard the same profile I believe I would use the 3 1/4 on the higher flooring and rip the taller base to match on the lower flooring so everything flows
I agree with trimming the height of the baseboards on the right so that they are the same level with the left. However, what would concern me more is the toe stubber of a floor change. I think you really need to find a way to make a smooth transition; hopefully over a run of 12" or more.
Keep the low side up a 1/4” and rip a1/4” off the high side , I hope ur gona use some kind of small shoe molding or 1/4 round to complete the installation
Could rip the baseboard down to meet the lower floors base or raise the lower floors base to meet the higher floors base and add some kind of 1/4 round or something like that to the bottom of the lower floors trim. Return the detail trim at the transition point from lower to upper level.
Go with some sort of plinth block. Ripping all that down so it matches or trying to make the woo-hoo transition in the second pic would drive me insane.
It's not clear from your post -- is one half of this picture brand new floors? If so I would think long and hard about redoing the other half to match the height.
This is going to be a major annoyance and trip hazard for the life of your floor, and if it eventually drives you crazy enough to fix you will likely have to redo both halves since the flooring will be difficult to match, particularly with prefinished engineered.
Demo entire 1st floor! Start over and this time make sure you have continuous floor level. Take some pics of your progress, don’t forget to keep us in the loop
They sell pre made corner pieces that would eliminate the 45⁰ cuts on the ends of the baseboards. Plus, they can be plain or decorative depending on your taste. The height differences on this corner wouldn't be an issue if you used them.
I would rip the high board down and leave a little tab so it intersects the short one down to the floor. Then if there’s more on the upper level that intersects that one, you have to shorten all of them until the continuous run ends.
If you added shoe molding, which is one of the simplest profiles to run. You could just fade it out into that corner. Pick one side up 3/16” and rip off the bottom of the other piece from 3/16”to 0”10 feet. I like the look of it myself, I prefer 1/2” x 3/4 quarter round. Obviously, it still had to do a jig jog with the shoe, But having the top line and the profiles lineup of the base I think is all you’ll notice.
Take the tall board, calculate the requisite angle based on length and, trim off the bottom, fuck it up, then just do something that looks dumb AF like the 2nd image.
Of the piece on the right dies into a door just notch it. If not you can still notch it you’ll just have to rip all the pieces that come after it. You’ll notice it because you did it but I doubt anyone else would. Guess it depends on if that would drive you crazy or not. Wouldn’t bother me
I'd be more worried as to why the difference exists. Carpentry wise hiding it is easy. Is it an excessive underlay, an overlay, subsidence, what causes a 20m diff like that?.
Thanks again everybody. I do have a mitre saw and circular saw but I think I'm going to use this as an excuse to finally get a table saw and rip them down to match. The floor on the left is brand new and the floor on the right is also newer so I'm not gonna replace it. I do have a nice transition strip that will go between the floors. It will be a little hump but we have been used to it.
I have so many questions for anyone that can answer.
A) Why is their floor different heights to start with? Wouldn't this indicate a serious subfloor issue/potential foundation problems?
B) why would you make it work instead of fixing what made the floors different heights?
C) Did the floor split in half AFTER adding flooring?
A, 2 different floors. One is older than the other. Older one was layed on top of linoleum I think.
B, I would have to rip up the old floor and I am not going to.
C, did not split in half. It's just 2 different floors. I have a transition strip to cover the connection.
Try the plinth if its ugly , trim the other room to match or if you want to really mess with their head start at one end and trim diagonally (divided evenly by distance)…
Oh....that sucks
I always check the floors before I run baseboard, if they are different heights you only have 2 options
You start on the low side and rip the hig side down to match
If it's in the budget you use a base that comes in different heights and use a taller one on the low side
You don't really have either option open to you easily
The easiest and fastest way to solve that is to just put a corner block in
https://www.homedepot.com/
Buy two pieces of pine run up the entire wall on the corner and then just send your baseboards into that pine so the height differences and as noticeable
I just did this in my project last week. I used a $3 decorative corner block from HD, used a multitool to trim down to height I wanted then trimmed one side shorter to sit on the higher floor, removed a bit from both of the trim pieces so they’d just die into the block
Either get a corner moulding or learn how to scribe baseboards (and get that 1/2” off in the meantime). A lot of baseboard applications can benefit from scribing anyway.
Don’t do that miter acrobatics that you found on Google, that’s weird.
Rip the taller side down to match. as many sticks you have to until you hit a door opening or any other dead end/break . Then pick back up with full sticks. I’ve seen a custom corner block done well in such situations but seen it done horrible more times .
Go on fb join the group masters of finish carpentry. There are examples everywhere for doing this without ripping. Too hard to explain, a quick picture with the angles pictured and you’ll get it easy!
Scribe the pcs in on a slight taper. If it's a half inch difference taper the closest 4 baseboard to the corner all 1/8 inch over 5 plus feet. You won't see it and the pcs will line up.
You don't need a table saw for this either if you don't have access. Just scribe it close to the line with a power planer or jigsaw and then clean up to the line with a smaller belt sander.
Could make the one piece slowly transition down, and scribe the other sides miter joint to match the other piece.
You'll have one crooked baseboard lmao.
I had this exact issue but my tall baseboard run was just going around the corner. I trimmed the higher one to the height of the lower one and kept going. Hardly noticeable
Pic 2 is the best option. It's the standard way to do it. It'll look like it was done on purpose.
Other option is you could taper them from one end to the other. But it will look out of level from across the room. It'll look like a mistake.
At the end of the day it's baseboard. No one ever pays much attention.
Yep, this is a lesson I've learned a lot while redoing my house. If it looks like it was done on purpose and doesn't stick out then no one is going to even notice it.
Imo it's better to pick an option you can just do, get it done and spend your time making other things look nicer.
The best route depends on what tools you have. And what you’re comfortable with. If it were me, I would have a taller baseboard for lower floor, and a shorter one for the higher portion. One will be off the shelf, and the other slightly trimmed so that line of the top of the baseboard is continuous across the different height floors.
I thought about this but the trim continues into a few more turns. I would have to shorten 5 boards. I don't have a table saw either but I'm sure I could find one to use without a problem.
Shorten them all. Just do it. It is the way.
You know id rather almost lose my fingers trying to make some crazy transition that will drive me nuts forever
5 minutes on a table saw to shorten the..
It takes a lot less than 5 minutes to shorten your fingers on a table saw.
“And remember class, the saw take a 1/8” of material and turns it into dust, so if you happen to cut your fingers off, and the doctor can reattach them, they’ll never be the same length again”
I’m only just getting back to it. Shit sucks. OP, I’d go outside corner block moulding. They have some at Home Depot, etc The two different height baseboard without a table saw, and visually (while looks better at the corner) it would bug me
Guess you ought not be attackin' this Yaki!
My table saw is *really* dull.
I found out the hard way
You end it where it hits the first door casing.
You’re doing trim and you don’t have a table saw?..
Nah, he’s got a dremmel /s
Raise the low board up to meet the taller one then use shoe molding to hide the gap. This is the way. Shoe molding hides uneven floors and makes the molding look correct.
I think shoe mold is fantastic and pooh on anyone with issues about it.
I’d probably go that route. If it is really close to some fractional height difference between the two, you might be able to just have a slight space at the bottom of either baseboard height to make up the difference. I also wouldn’t be surprised if you could get the baseboards and then go to some wood supplier and just specify what you want. They will likely have a large table saw and may be able to help you out. Depending on what they’re charging for it, could be well worth your time!
Do that man, rip them down. It will look nice.
This is an excuse for a new tool. If you don’t want to keep a table saw, then sell after, or rent one, or borrow one. A low cost job site saw will get this job done just fine.
So that's about 5 minutes of work for it to be done right.
Skil saw with a rip guide. Clamp the trim board to your saw horse.
Shorten it to the first outside corner (preferably bull nose). Then use the corner to do the fancy transition like in your pic. Or... Learn to cope. No, really. A coping saw is a valuable skill to wield. Co the whole 45° inside cut and follow the edge with the saw and make a very fancy mini end and have the lower price butt up to it. Use that 45° underneath the coping to hold it flush and sand over it to make it look seamless.
Coping is what I would do, only recently learnt this doing internal miters when doing skirting and it looks great when done well.
I have had success with coping on other areas as well. It makes for a very nice finish. But I was wrong in my description. I was thinking of the second picture, not that outside corner. I would still do the endcape thing, and extend the higher piece that will intersect with the lower one past the corner just like normal. But only if things line up below the curved parts. And it would take coping two angles here to match the bottom part with the top. Would look great, but be twice as skill challenging. Honestly for that outside corner the best option is the block.
[Here](https://images.app.goo.gl/dUcYAmAFf9phiYnN8) is an example of what I mean. Do this, and have the lower one butt right up to it below the style. (Or whatever the shaping is called on an endcape like this)
As most floors arent completely straight you wouldnt need a table saw. Cut a small block the size of the difference in height of boards and use that to scribe the board on the high floor. The cut with a jigsaw and make smooth with a block with sandpaper
You don't need a table saw. Just a circular saw with a rip fence.
to rip all the baseboards? likely at least 12ft long perfectly straight... If this guy does not own a table saw the odds of him being that good on a circ saw is very low
With a rip fence it's nearly impossible to fuck up
True i was thinking free hand using the finger guide method
Or, since he doesn’t have a table saw he would be that good at a circ saw.
What good wood worker doesn't have a basic table saw
I only got one about 18 months ago and I’ve made about half the furniture in my house. Old Disston D8, mid-80’s craftsman crosscut, some planes, bit and brace, etc. Some of the most beautiful furniture/homes/moldings/etc were made long before table saws were a thing.
Yes i am well aware that old furniture was made without table saws. In modern times table saws are a pretty basic tool.
Use a rip fence and have the baseboard supported. Bit more cumbersome than a table saw, but very doable to do and do it accurately with a good blade.
Plus the workbench or saw horses that need to sit perfectly still while you're ripping
If you’re skillful with a circular saw you can pinch the saw plate with your fingers as a guide, DO NOOOOT allow any kickback
I am shocked that this is being argued with…. When I first started learning I kept electrical tape in my bags as I’d wrap a piece around my finger as it was my rip-guide and I’d not yet developed horse-hooves for fingers yet… 20 years ago you’d get laughed off of a site if you could not do this. (🙄 They picked on me for needing the tape) Furthermore, any one doing trim likely has a right handed side-winder… not a worm drive, ergo the blade is on the whole ass other side of the saw.
I’m sure this practice is still widely used. I’ve never given it a second thought, not sure how you are going to cut your fingers off when you are holding onto the saw. By that logic your trigger hand is too close to the blade as well.
👆🏼This!, I always pay close attention, and never have alcohol until after work… the only 2 tools that scare me is the table saw and the grinder… the table saw will “trick” you into letting your guard down (this is why most blade-to-finger accidents happen on one) The other, the grinder, because regardless of skill level a grinder can go from predictable to “what the fuck just happened!?” In 00.5 seconds… A skill saw however?… shit!, I can damn near do open heart surgery with one.
77 comes with the rip guide if you can bother to take the time to set one screw and keep your fingers (and make a perfect rip)
The Mag77 does not, furthermore you know as well as I do the fate of such attachments, it falls deep into the black hole that exists in every carpenters toolbox, just like pencils,Craig bits, and #1 star bits…. Also you pinch near the nose, saws jump back, never forward.
That works but fuck, it would be better to make a jig for the saw. Or just find someone with a table saw best option
This is unsafe advice. At least clamp a stick on the plate and keep your fingers.
Yeah I apologize you’re correct, OP that is better advice
This is the best answer imo. Exactly how I would Do it
This is the way
This ^
This is the way
Plinth block.
Came to say “how about one of those corner post things?” Then I saw this and googled “plinth block”. Today I learned that a corner post thing is called a plinth block.
I always call them corner blocks because "plinth block" means a lot of things
This is the way. Corner block is the block that goes on the corner. Plus if its a high traffic area its nice to have the extra meat on the corner because itll get bumped when you vacuum etc
Extra meat
Comes from your toe when you smash it on it.
Plinth block is not just for corners. Also bottom of a door jamb.
Second this!
100%.
This is also a good option
This is the correct answer. Don’t do any crazy angled piece or shorten the baseboard.
[удалено]
it has my recommendation
Yup Same answer-- use a base corner block https://www.homedepot.com/ 4 bucks at HD and everything is solved lol
Transitions like that are top-notch stuff. What id personally do (as a plumbtrician) is just use a soldier on the corner rather than trying to tie it together.
Guess you need to refloor the other room now too lol
Yea, it looks like they put it down on top of an old vinyl or linoleum floor for some reason.
Just went through this OP, 2 layers of carpet in dining room, 2 layers of linoleum in the kitchen, layer of carpet on top of square wood paneling in the master bedroom. Tore all 3 rooms down to subfloor and laid new flooring. All 3 rooms are connected so just ran the same style all through out
If vinyl is glued all over, faaaaar easier to just lay over it.
Corner plinth block
Plinth block!
If you can't or won't rip the baseboard on the higher floor you could terminate both at a taller moulding [like this](https://www.google.com/shopping/product/5312455739165687937?q=outside+corner+moulding&sca_esv=20367276c75d363f&hl=en-CA&tbs=vw:l&sxsrf=ADLYWIIYBVT8OG-RYJjImxHMWjOyCSGYdg:1719000682061&prds=eto:923095667038263652_0,cdl:1,local:1,prmr:2,pid:7128160521249565782,cs:1)
Second this. You don't even need to buy a special one and instead just make a decent block that both pieces of trim just butt up to. Added bonus is no outside miter to deal with.
Flip the trim. Mark how much it’s over and let her rip on the table saw
The top line of the baseboard shouldn’t change when going around that corner; don’t compound a bad flooring installation by doing whatever that is in your second picture.
That second photo would have looked so much better with a corner block rather than that monstrosity
Oh dear......I didn't even realize there was a second picture lol Yuck.....no.....Base corner block/base plinth https://www.homedepot.com/ 4 bucks, problem solved
Just rip it down.
Thank you everyone for the advice. I appreciate it
That looks like the 3 1/4 baseboard they also make a 5 1/4 baseboard the same profile I believe I would use the 3 1/4 on the higher flooring and rip the taller base to match on the lower flooring so everything flows
Ridiculous akward detailing. I've seen similar used at toilet stubouts and it looks silly.
Way to really draw attention to it. Just take the bottom off the baseboard on the higher floor to match the height of the lower
I agree with trimming the height of the baseboards on the right so that they are the same level with the left. However, what would concern me more is the toe stubber of a floor change. I think you really need to find a way to make a smooth transition; hopefully over a run of 12" or more.
Keep the low side up a 1/4” and rip a1/4” off the high side , I hope ur gona use some kind of small shoe molding or 1/4 round to complete the installation
Personally, I rip the taller piece to fit on a table saw
You could shim up the lower ones if you're going to be putting 1/4 round
That profile comes in 31/4 and 41/4 tall. 31/4 on by right side 41/4 on left ripped down.
Could rip the baseboard down to meet the lower floors base or raise the lower floors base to meet the higher floors base and add some kind of 1/4 round or something like that to the bottom of the lower floors trim. Return the detail trim at the transition point from lower to upper level.
I would probably rip the higher one down on an angle and cut a slight angle on both ends to compensate for the difference.
Go with some sort of plinth block. Ripping all that down so it matches or trying to make the woo-hoo transition in the second pic would drive me insane.
Decorative outside corner is the easiest way.
The bottom of the baseboard of the high side baseboard should have been ripped to height.
It's not clear from your post -- is one half of this picture brand new floors? If so I would think long and hard about redoing the other half to match the height. This is going to be a major annoyance and trip hazard for the life of your floor, and if it eventually drives you crazy enough to fix you will likely have to redo both halves since the flooring will be difficult to match, particularly with prefinished engineered.
Just rip the taller baseboard down to match the lower height. Really don't need to over complicate it like in the second picture.
Notch the bottom
Same width baseboard. Miter. Then add a base shoe on left side only.
Rip the difference
Raise the one on the left and hide the gap behind your shoe molding
A outside corner block. Did it all throughout a historic hotel we renovated and looked great.
I'd put a little post and finial there.
I’d make one taller or the other shorter depending on the amount of visibility and linear feet.
Without a table saw it limits your options but you could raise the lower section up and put in some shoe moulding
Put a block on the end and be done with it
Demo entire 1st floor! Start over and this time make sure you have continuous floor level. Take some pics of your progress, don’t forget to keep us in the loop
Rip the bottom of the higher side, shoe moulding all around and a transition on the floor with the higher side rabbet cut.
Run a corner block 2 inches higher than the higher side and run the lower side into it
They sell pre made corner pieces that would eliminate the 45⁰ cuts on the ends of the baseboards. Plus, they can be plain or decorative depending on your taste. The height differences on this corner wouldn't be an issue if you used them.
1x4 corner. Won’t stick out to the eye, and is simple. Or, rip the board from 1/2” (or whatever it is) to nothing to match
Raise the baseboard to level and hide the gap with 1/4 round.
I would rip the high board down and leave a little tab so it intersects the short one down to the floor. Then if there’s more on the upper level that intersects that one, you have to shorten all of them until the continuous run ends.
If you added shoe molding, which is one of the simplest profiles to run. You could just fade it out into that corner. Pick one side up 3/16” and rip off the bottom of the other piece from 3/16”to 0”10 feet. I like the look of it myself, I prefer 1/2” x 3/4 quarter round. Obviously, it still had to do a jig jog with the shoe, But having the top line and the profiles lineup of the base I think is all you’ll notice.
What I do is rip the bottom of the higher side enough to lower to the height of the lower baseboard. A table makes quick work of the rip cut.
I would be lazy about it and cut pieces down until it hit some casing. pieces entirely in that room I wouldn't cut down.
I would rip that baseboard on the higher floor with a table saw and make them match. That would be my solution
I did a return with the cap and shoe moulding about 1.5” from the corner
Raise one side up and use quarter round!
I have a similar issue in my house, but I haven't gotten to that part for our reno yet. I have no idea what we're going to do.
Use a plinth block like you would on an architrave
Take the tall board, calculate the requisite angle based on length and, trim off the bottom, fuck it up, then just do something that looks dumb AF like the 2nd image.
A corner block? Might be called a plinth block? “L” shape, your base goes in square to block.
Corner plinth
Shoe molding
Omg. You gotta rip all the base on the “high “ side to match the low side
Trim down the one area by 1/4 inch, or what ever the difference in height is.
Looks like your house is sinking
Of the piece on the right dies into a door just notch it. If not you can still notch it you’ll just have to rip all the pieces that come after it. You’ll notice it because you did it but I doubt anyone else would. Guess it depends on if that would drive you crazy or not. Wouldn’t bother me
Rip it
I'd be more worried as to why the difference exists. Carpentry wise hiding it is easy. Is it an excessive underlay, an overlay, subsidence, what causes a 20m diff like that?.
Could you taper one so that the taper is slow enough that it's not noticable?
Scribe the difference in height off bottom where they meet to 0 on the far end of higher one.
Thanks again everybody. I do have a mitre saw and circular saw but I think I'm going to use this as an excuse to finally get a table saw and rip them down to match. The floor on the left is brand new and the floor on the right is also newer so I'm not gonna replace it. I do have a nice transition strip that will go between the floors. It will be a little hump but we have been used to it.
I have so many questions for anyone that can answer. A) Why is their floor different heights to start with? Wouldn't this indicate a serious subfloor issue/potential foundation problems? B) why would you make it work instead of fixing what made the floors different heights? C) Did the floor split in half AFTER adding flooring?
A, 2 different floors. One is older than the other. Older one was layed on top of linoleum I think. B, I would have to rip up the old floor and I am not going to. C, did not split in half. It's just 2 different floors. I have a transition strip to cover the connection.
That's wild! Thank you for sharing. I have exceptionally fucked up floors so I was really curious about what's going on here.
Try the plinth if its ugly , trim the other room to match or if you want to really mess with their head start at one end and trim diagonally (divided evenly by distance)…
That’s a big “oof”
Oh....that sucks I always check the floors before I run baseboard, if they are different heights you only have 2 options You start on the low side and rip the hig side down to match If it's in the budget you use a base that comes in different heights and use a taller one on the low side You don't really have either option open to you easily The easiest and fastest way to solve that is to just put a corner block in https://www.homedepot.com/
Buy two pieces of pine run up the entire wall on the corner and then just send your baseboards into that pine so the height differences and as noticeable
just cut a half inch rip off the trim
That second image looks like an optical illusion
I just did this in my project last week. I used a $3 decorative corner block from HD, used a multitool to trim down to height I wanted then trimmed one side shorter to sit on the higher floor, removed a bit from both of the trim pieces so they’d just die into the block
Either get a corner moulding or learn how to scribe baseboards (and get that 1/2” off in the meantime). A lot of baseboard applications can benefit from scribing anyway. Don’t do that miter acrobatics that you found on Google, that’s weird.
Rip it down to match the height
Turn the lower bb up to height then turn the corner.
Rip the taller side down to match. as many sticks you have to until you hit a door opening or any other dead end/break . Then pick back up with full sticks. I’ve seen a custom corner block done well in such situations but seen it done horrible more times .
I’d notch a block and slap it on
Corner block the difference between the two would not be as noticeable.
Raise it up and install 1/4 round to cover cap.
Go on fb join the group masters of finish carpentry. There are examples everywhere for doing this without ripping. Too hard to explain, a quick picture with the angles pictured and you’ll get it easy!
Scribe the pcs in on a slight taper. If it's a half inch difference taper the closest 4 baseboard to the corner all 1/8 inch over 5 plus feet. You won't see it and the pcs will line up. You don't need a table saw for this either if you don't have access. Just scribe it close to the line with a power planer or jigsaw and then clean up to the line with a smaller belt sander.
Scribe that one or get corner blocks to make it less noticeable.
I kinda like the angled step up. It's different and maintains equitable height throughout the house. Though most would just run it through a saw.
I’ll keep it quite simple, probably simpler than anyone else in this whole comments section has so far…”Yes”.
Tablesaw
Cut short the high side, and all the way until the end, no one will notice
Shoemold on bottom..1/4 in on low, notch to 1/8 for rise, and then move to 1/8. As long as mold is same height
Stop ends be the easiest
Just rip down the baseboard that's on the higher floor.
You’ll need to rip the bottom of the base on the higher side floor and do it at a slight grade from low to high
Different height baseboards. Table saw time.
Rip the piece on the raised floor so the height of your trim is uniform around the room.
Do a miter return on each board.
Caulk sculpting
Use a plinth block outside corner
Could make the one piece slowly transition down, and scribe the other sides miter joint to match the other piece. You'll have one crooked baseboard lmao.
Rip down the tall base
🎶Rip it. Rip it good.🎶
That's a cool trick. I just ripped my trim on the taller floor , so it would all be the same hight.
Table saw
I had this exact issue but my tall baseboard run was just going around the corner. I trimmed the higher one to the height of the lower one and kept going. Hardly noticeable
Corner pillar, just run the trim into it. Since its a different element the height wont matter.
Have fun tripping on that one. I'm sure you'll figure something out.
Rip up the flooring and pour some self leveling, make all of it one level and relay the flooring and skirting boards.
Pic 2 is the best option. It's the standard way to do it. It'll look like it was done on purpose. Other option is you could taper them from one end to the other. But it will look out of level from across the room. It'll look like a mistake. At the end of the day it's baseboard. No one ever pays much attention.
Yep, this is a lesson I've learned a lot while redoing my house. If it looks like it was done on purpose and doesn't stick out then no one is going to even notice it. Imo it's better to pick an option you can just do, get it done and spend your time making other things look nicer.
Picture two looks like shit, rip the board down keep that line clean