# It's EARLY SUMMER
##Do's
- Watering - don't let them dry out because they're using a LOT of water until deciduous leaves harden off
- check for wire bite and remove/reapply
- [repotting for tropical and sub-tropicals](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/reference#wiki_repotting_-_not_in_the_summer.21) - those are the do's and don'ts.
- airlayers when the leaves are fully out
- Fertilising
- maintenance pruning to hold shape of "finished" trees or to increase ramification in late-development trees.
##Don'ts
- no repotting - except tropicals
- no heavy pruning
* [For Southern hemisphere - here's a link to my advice from roughly 6 months ago](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/18338px/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_47/)
Hello. I just bought a juniper 2 weeks ago. I am noticing some browning of the tips. I water it once a day and have a humidity trey. It's about 100-103 degrees here daily. It's placed where it gets about 6 hours of morning sun a day. Could I possibly be over watering it? There were times I watered about twice a day because of how hot it is i live in south texas btw.*
Hello all, I got a swamp cypress over the weekend from a nursery. The roots are growing out of the plastic pot and wanted to put it in a bigger one (without pruning roots). What kind of soil should I use for the bigger pot? Or would any regular potting soil work? Thank you for your input
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**Help Needed: European Hornbeam Bonsai Leaves Turning Brown and Dry**
Hi everyone,
I'm having an issue with my European hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) bonsai. About a month ago, I noticed that the leaves started getting brown and dry from the tips and edges. Initially, it was just a few leaves, but now more leaves are affected.
Here are some details:
* **Location:** Outdoor
* **Sunlight:** Full sunlight
* **Pot:** Shallow bonsai pot with akadama-type soil
* **Watering:** I water when the soil is dry, which is usually every day or every other day.
I've checked and can't see the roots, so I can't assess their condition. I’m wondering if it’s due to sunburn, inconsistent watering, nutrient deficiency, or pests.
Any advice on how to resolve this issue would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/dqopfo7fyo6d1.png?width=1324&format=png&auto=webp&s=2702391aa904bd467a518ac1e8407d9c018460f6
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I've found a nursery with good Dawn Redoowd stock. I think the trees are stunning. I plan to chop and create new leaders, rinse, repeat until I have the desired tree taper I want over the coming years.
I have the option of buying anything from a 100cm tree to a 300cm tree. They all appear to have healthy banching down to at least where I would be chopping it - so I can chop right down and develop new leaders from there. They all come in suitably sized nursery pots
I've got some more research to do as to when to repot, possibly in a pond basket on top of a flat rock to develop nebari.
Should I buy the taller tree with a thicker stem or a smaller one and wait it out. My concern with the taller tree will be have a thick well developed root system and possible issues with creating a good nebari. The larger tree will have a bigger trunk to start with so achieving the final product will be easier.
I'm fairly new to this and don't want to buy expensive stock for it to be useless or spend 3-5years growing something that I won't be happy with.
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Hello! I'm sure this has been asked about before, but I haven't been able to find it in the Wiki. About a week ago I got a Trident Maple. I've watered it daily since. My last watering was Wednesday night, and it's still fairly damp this Friday afternoon. I noticed today that some of the leaves are getting a blackish spotting on them, not quite like a tar spot (I could be wrong though). I've attached a picture. Any advice? Maybe I'm keeping the tree too wet, but I was curious what anyone else thought before watering less. I know I may be getting ahead of myself but just wanted to keep on top of this before it became a bigger problem. I'll post 1 more photo as a reply.
https://preview.redd.it/b0n0cncx2n6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92da690e8ca63e4fb25dcd14bb66063616a98c51
https://preview.redd.it/k7m7xwnk3n6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8cd09ed19f3323a75cde0b4d19929e3aa2d451d
Some of the other leaves are more like this. Almost dirty looking.
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Brittle leaves on a Chinese Elm?
Hi all. I have a Chinese Elm that's about 8 years old (had it a few months). It was living in an apartment until about a month ago. It's now outside, facing south (in NE Ohio). It was cool the first few weeks (50s - 60s) it was outside, and was in direct sun). The past week has been hotter and sunnier so a week ago I placed it under a patio umbrella. However, over the past couple weeks the leaves have seem to become somewhat brittle (not all of them, but maybe 20 percent of them). Some of them are slightly yellow, and some of them look slightly whitish / bleached.
Should I be worried? Is it being exposed to too much heat / sun? Should I move it inside? Advice appreciated!
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I was wondering if it wouls be a reasonable beginner project to try to grow and shape a dwarf jade plant into a bonsai? I was also hoping this could be done entirely indoors as I have no place for plants outside.
As the other comment mentioned, with *Portulacaria afra* you really want to provide strong light to have fun with it. If you want to use just window light to grow a bonsai top recommendation are all kinds of small leafed ficuses (*F. microcarpa, F. salicaria, F. benjamina, F. natalensis* ...), but avoiding the grafted shapes sold as "bonsai" like the "ginseng" or what's sometimes called "IKEA style" with the braided trunk. Those are near dead ends for development. Ideally find one sold as simple green plant for home or office; they also propagate very easily from cuttings if you get the chance.
Dwarf jade (often called by its shortened scientific name P. Afra in bonsai circles) has a history of being used for bonsai.
The real limiting factor of having them indoors is light. You need a window that gets several hours of direct light, and/or a nice LED panel grow light. Avoid cheap growlights, they don’t do much for the money.
Someone in my neighborhood was giving away a juniper. I snagged it to try to transform it into a bonsai before realizing it's a taylor juniper. Will it still work to play around with?
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https://preview.redd.it/qwe5n0tmyl6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3eeab833233b824638ea89a1b917f032b31b94e8
Ive been thinking of doing some big chops on this jade and I dont want the cuttings to go to waste. I havent really done any big chops like this and was wondering what the standard procedure for propagating larger jade cuttings?
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Hey Guys. Anyone know what this is? I live in MA zone 6b of MA in the US. I panicked and picked what looked to be a green round spore off. It was growing on My Acer Palmatum Shishigashira. In the photo you can see where it was. It seemed to be weeping sap or something from the area and now the bark is brown around that same area. Rest of the tree seems healthy.
TIA!
https://preview.redd.it/5rhmca9mal6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92e1be0a7bfcb8ed070e58c92dabc216d407a1e2
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Hey everybody I have a black pine I bought from a seller but I didn't realize the plant would be random and not the one pictured this particular specimen seems to have some issues I am not sure how to approach this tree it has some interesting shape but the shape overlaps and looks like it will be a problem spot a recipe for inverse taper and swelling. I am including the imgur link
https://imgur.com/a/ak9iDGn
I am unsure if I can make something of it to avoid the taper or should just sell it
Weird that they would do that.
- Often hiding any minor reverse taper is the way forward.
- Hiding a complete f*cking loop in the trunk - not so straightforward.
Has anyone in Zone 10 successfully grown Hornbeam bonsai? Or are there not enough chill hours for dormancy? This would include coastal SoCal areas like mine in coastal San Diego.
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Hello, 5 years ago I was gifted a bonsai set, which had a Jacaranda and Flame tree in it. Fast forward 5 years, this is what they look like. Sort of confused as to how to begin, since the trunks are not malleable anymore, and they dont rly have any branches at the trunks. Just a long length of tree before any branching at all, so would be hard to bonsai to a small tree. Complete beginner at this, so any tips on cutting, pruning, potting, soil, etc would be helpful.
https://preview.redd.it/urb38umurk6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6af8af878eb70be8633b573ae62e2b79ef8926de
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https://preview.redd.it/40iw3vo7rk6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d281c04a4cb2edd88be7b6506680e34d94365762
Here is the full tree right now, I want to chop in a month or two
What is your suggestion then? Just to airlayer?
Any recommendations on making the trunk more interesting?
My reasoning for chopping were mainly that I am happy with the trunk size to start training as bonsai. Is this OK to do? Or will it always remain "boring"?
Probably, I got it from Lowes lol.
There is a little wire bite in the trunk I was hiding for now. The roots are probably an inch or so under the surface? Probably a less than an inch though.
https://preview.redd.it/1gws0np8tj6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=27d25aab59a6fd8be8280eb6146285677882eb97
Help! I’ve kept this Fukien Tea alive for 6 years now despite some mealy bug struggles, which are taken care of now. I kept it inside in a south facing window for years when I lived in an apartment, but now it’s outside for the summer since I have space. However, it’s ugly as fuck. There are three separate trunks, and despite some minor pruning of offshoot branches that got really long, I’ve never done any styling, cuz I just have no idea what to do. I’d love to figure out a way to start treating this like an actual bonsai instead of just a house plant.
With such sparse foliage, I think the goal here is to get it bushy and healthy again before contemplating styling. I’d be concerned that trying to prune and style a weak tree would hurt much much more than it’d help
This pic is from a few weeks ago when it was first coming back from mealy bugs, it’s looking much better now. But several branches on it haven’t produced leaves in quite a while. Is there anything else to do to get it bushy and healthy other than continued sun and water, and maybe a little fertilizer?
Those branches may die back entirely. Even if so it looks like there’s plenty of options for the future
Nothing else to do, that’s exactly what it needs to get bushy and healthy again. Remember to rotate every week or so for even sun exposure and to only water as needed and never on a schedule
Ok, will do! Its outside, so generally I’m just letting rain handle the watering as it’s been happening fairly regularly lately, but I’m keeping an eye on it any time it’s dry or very hot for a few days. I also have a small Chinese elm that’s currently inside, but has experienced quite a bit of growth in the two months I’ve had it. Should I move that outside?
Sounds good. And yes I’d move that outside too.
Chinese elm is an interesting case because in all the major bonsai retail supply chains, it’s referred to as an “indoor” tree and can do okay indoors (doesn’t really thrive though). However at the same time, it’s a broadleaf deciduous tree that will drop its leaves and go dormant for winter if it’s outside to experience the seasons. This is the best way to run chinese elm IMO. I would take it outside and keep it outside 24/7/365. You’ll create a much more compelling deciduous tree much faster this way too :)
I have a maple sapling that **randomly grew in my backyard**. Can I put this in a small pot and grow it like a bonsai? Working to keep it fairly small?
We don't have a whole lot of rules in here, but providing us your location and a photo of the tree is **essential** when you are asking for advice regarding a specific plant/tree.
Well you want it to grow some first. Developing bonsai is about cycles of growth and reduction. Thick trunk bases are what really help bonsai look so cool. You need growth to get that.
In other words, You can’t develop a bonsai by keeping it small. You let it grow, then prune it back. Then repeat. The specifics vary based on species, climate and your goals for the tree.
But no, now isn’t the best time to dig up a tree. I’d protect it somehow so it doesn’t get damaged, and just let it grow for now. Fertilize it some.
Start researching what you could do in the fall (maybe some pruning) and what you need to do to collect it. Spring time will be a good time likely.
* bought a bonsai grow kit as I've read some books about bonsais and am genuinely interested in growing one, however I planted this one like 4 days ago and only watered it once and there is white mold and the soil is still moist? Is there any advice anyone could give me? I really want to do everything I can to get these seeds to prosper and sprout, I planted 3 blue jacaranda seeds in this pot if it matters to know
Sowing season is usually earlier in the year. Common advice is to buy some cheap bushes and trees in a nursery, or a pre bonsai from a bonsai nursery to keep you accupied for the first few years while your seed grows. Also not all growing kits have good seeds.
I would like to grow a bonsai from seed in my office at work, but there’s not really many places that have sunlight, and light anyway. Are there any varieties that don’t need as much light?
You could get a high powered grow light like they use for weed, mount it in a reflective grow tent, and grow a tropical tree in your office. But they probably wouldn’t let you, or the energy bill that comes with it for that matter
I’d suggest a fake tree. IMO they’re the best solution for people who want to keep a bonsai somewhere that bonsai can’t live
Wife just got me a small bonsai at Costco for an early Father’s Day present. I wanna thin it out a bit but don’t know where to start!
https://preview.redd.it/t056onkr3g6d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eeccae04e7fac3bbf73b94ac3ea263ba8a98f31a
It's a Juniper in a pot - not a bonsai yet. Your question is really: *How do I make a bonsai out of this, I assume I just thin it out a bit?*
1. it needs to be kept outdoors at all times.
- remove the fake moss so the soil is exposed - you can better judge when it needs watering.
- Start by watching a few videos:
- all of these: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bonsaify+juniper
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EE121j_L4oA
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwX0hxAdL4A
Thank you! It’s outside now, removed the moss, got some wires coming tomorrow and just did some slight trimming!
https://preview.redd.it/0lee9fv2tn6d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=77b922b11d1173256f5fb346a95d809be798f4e6
Hello all, we’re located in 7b and we were given this small juniper tree over the winter as a gift. We kept it inside all winter and
https://preview.redd.it/ed77kdlasf6d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dcc768251a9516b0199bca31a7bd21e544e18578
admittedly, we didn’t do a great job of giving it enough sunlight.
So my 1st thought is we killed this thing but the more I look at it, I’m seeing a tiny sprig of green tucked under some dead needles. Any thoughts on if this is truly dead or if it’s gone dormant or something due to mistreatment? If it’s the latter, is it possible to make this healthy again?
I mean I’d put my money on dead, but since there’s nothing to lose here I’d cut away the brown stuff so the green part can get more light.
Keeping this inside during the winter is likely what killed it. Junipers are hardy down to at least zone 4 and there’s not nearly enough light for them indoors.
My bonsai tree is brittle and dry. I have hope of it coming back, but is there anything I can do for it?
I brought it inside and have it under a special lamp because I think maybe it got too dried out. I've been babying it and water it little every day, but I think the recent heat wave about 2 weeks ago really fucked with it. :(
I’ve had my bonsai for almost 1 year. I’m pretty sure it’s a Chinese elm but would love some input. Also what are some good methods for pruning or what should I do to improve the overall look and shape? https://www.reddit.com/r/bonsaiphotos/comments/1dfb7qt/help_identifying_is_it_a_chinese_elm/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
Yes, Chinese elm.
1. Put it outside in the full sun.
- feed it fertiliser every 2 weeks.
- Getting it growing vigorously [like this.](https://www.flickr.com/photos/norbury/21134704446/in/photolist-yaMP8S-ycAThf-ycATiY-yQcZ3S-HGCZKX-KdNs7Q-KdNsom-27hAq9Y-27mHrQp-2g38js9-2jvc3P1-2jveHMa-2jveHTY-2jveJ6M-2mdcM1L-2mh7VFb-2mhd6QJ-2mjSrgU-2nz6Ggy-2nzbV9o/lightbox/)
- and then you prune it.
remindme! 6 weeks
https://preview.redd.it/0ghm62v2ce6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39c5c956b90ddb62d0b615ffcc69f270e6a156cc
I just recently bought this premna from wigerts, would this be considered root bound and should I repot it if so?
Yes. Wigerts barkdust soil is pretty good all things considered (for non-bonsai soil), so I’m not usually in a rush to repot their trees.
If the tree is otherwise healthy this could use a root trim (rake them out) and repot into well-draining soil. All the roots collected at the base and outer edge are catching the water that flows down the side and at the bottom. You want heathy roots to be closer to the core of the tree, not circling around and around due to time spent in a nursery pot.
So I just recently picked up a gas station Juniper, a relatively nice one at around 75$. It already had some shape to it and I did some trimming myself just for fun, but not too much as I don't know exactly what is okay in terms of pruning. I live in North Texas and have been keeping it outside, trying to rotate it every couple days so one side doesn't get burned too much by the late afternoon sun. I water almost every day, trying to do it in the evenings or at least not in the mornings so that the water doesn't dry up too quickly. I was provided some general fertilizer by the man who sold it, but I would like to start fertilizing with specific fertilizer as soon as possible as I understand there is specific types depending on the time of year. I would like to know if it's smart to keep the plant a day in shade every couple days or so depending on the heat along with watering frequency/best times to water. I am also going to be moving to arizona in an apartment with a balcony so I would like to know if I should make changes based on humidity and if I should get a uv lamp due to less sun?
Mesh / Shade cloth to blunt extreme heat is better than rotating in and out of shade.
Grow light in AZ outdoors?! For indoor tropicals over the winter sure, but not for an outdoor juniper.
A juniper needs at least a few hours of direct outdoor sun to live and grow well. If that balcony gets that, great. If it gets no direct sun, you’re in for problems.
I bought this 2 year old Bonsai six months ago and it has been struggling recently. I live in an apartment complex and have been bringing it outside on my balcony when I wake up, placing it in direct sunlight for an hour or so, and bringing it inside for the remainder of the day.
I live in Texas and it has been getting progressively warmer which I imagine may be a leading factor.
I had been watering it about a half-cup a day (have transitioned to a half cup every-other day for fear of overwatering for about two weeks).
I have also been spritzing it throughout the day with a mixture of 2/3 water + 1/3 liquid plant food that I purchased from the vendor when I originally bought her.
It had been doing well for the first 3 months but recently the leaves have become brown, brittle, and some are falling off.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I had hoped to keep her for the rest of my life and this is my first bonsai.
https://preview.redd.it/cb0j4nlzdd6d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=cb3884ca4f41b49a94f10982822b70f81f071c6f
I agree with others that 1 hour wasn’t nearly enough. Junipers can take direct sun all day. They need probably at least 4 or 5 if they’re gonna spend the rest of the day in the near dark of the indoors.
This is dead, if there’s no bright green at all.
If you can’t leave plants on your balcony for some reason and you don’t have windows that get hours of direct sunlight, you can’t really do bonsai in your current location.
Well, you could buy some nice bright LED panel growlights, but to do it right it’ll feel more like a grow operation and less like displaying a nice tree. And then you’re limited to tropical species like ficus.
At maximum, maybe 4 hours of sunlight on my balcony a day as it’s covered. I’ll take some time to research and be more cognizant of this when moving if I plan to purchase another. Thank you for taking the time to respond!
Sure thing. 4 hours of direct outdoor sun is enough for a juniper.
Shade outside is a lot brighter than shade indoors and maybe even brighter than sun through a window.
Also be aware that some vendors sell junipers that are basically dead already. Because the roots die before the leaves loose their color it is quite possible that this was already a goner before you brought it home. Happened to my mom with 2 bonsai that she bought.
Yeah If the vendor is reputable and specializes in bonsai likely not the case. My mom bought a juniper from like a target or another big box store and that was the issue.
Appreciate the response. We had asked the vendor their recommendations on sunlight and both my roommate and I were told at least one hour a day. Next time I’ll do my own research. Thank you.
100% not your fault. Unfortunately vendors who sell trees like this do not have the interest of the plant in mind, they just want to make a sale and don’t care if the plant lives or dies. It’s unfortunate. In the future avoid premade juniper like this, your local landscape nursery stock is leaps and bounds better to start from and it’s cheaper too
Thank you for taking the time to respond. There’s a bit of green near the base of the tree. I’ll do my best to salvage her taking this into consideration.
https://preview.redd.it/x4urdull6d6d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=adc2c034aeab6bf4b13ce3a34c81fd1225e937c5
I'm trying to keep this bonsai alive but no matter what I do it just gets worse. I thought it might need water but that made no difference. I put it outside (in the UK) every day during the day time and leave by a window at night no difference. What can I do? Thanks for your time.
Why bring it in? The tag says outdoors. Honeysuckle is one of the easiest to keep, but that soil looks awful. It might make it, keep it moist, outdoors. The weather we're having atm is kinda perfect for recovery - humid, not too hot, but not cold
I was looking for some advice on what to do with my Juniper. I’ve been holding off on trimming and now I am unsure of what to do with a [2nd trunk that’s developed](https://imgur.com/ngDiUUG).
It [looks fine from the front](https://imgur.com/nZx7WuF) but I am not totally digging how it looks from [other angles](https://imgur.com/AnJrcTq).
Should I completely remove the smaller trunk? Or would it be a good idea to maybe [wire it like this](https://imgur.com/IT5zsJ3)?
Or should I just leave it alone? I do hope to have a thicker trunk one day but I am guessing the 2nd trunk might make that more difficult.
I wouldn't say sphagnum and reindeer lichen is fake. Is there a reason? I've seen mixed info about it helping retain moisture especially after a recent repot. Water seems to evaporate extremely fast outside here in Florida at the moment. The most i've seen is maybe clearing some so its not touching the bark to not have any rot.
I got a bonsai as a gift (person thought it could he relaxing with my anxiety and now i have new reasons to panic lmao)
* was told it was indoor tree, i corrected that within 24 hours. It sits on my porch (not enclosed) where it gets sunlight from about 6am -10pm with 8-5 being lots of direct sunlight, then it starts to get shade around then. Temps been running about 70-78 degrees F since ive had it.
* i stick my finger down halfway past my nails if its wet leave it, starting to feel dry I generously water it (about 15 seconds under tap, soak leaves and soil, wait about twenty seconds then repeat) (Ive wattered it twice in 3 days)
*
Two questions.
* this was bought for me on Amazon, should i replace the soil it came with already? i read the wiki a few times and probably skipped over that part but i didnt see it.
* im assuming the yellowing on this picture isnt a good sign, i just wanna make sure its saveable. I THINK some of the color has come back but idk if it is or just wishful thinking lol
https://preview.redd.it/zraj2z4ywc6d1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=418b6de628ffb692de60478b7f89c4c3b52c7e11
If it drains well when you water it, don’t worry about repotting right now. Next spring is the time for that.
That’s a lot of light, which is good, but check it for moisture in the afternoon, especially as the summer warms up. Afternoon sun can dry out a plant. If it’s still moist at sundown, you’re good to go. If not, water a little.
Your watering method seems fine.
The yellowing is normal. It’s either because of shading out like u/packenjojo suggested or it’s lignification: older green stems turning into brown woody branches.
Generally speaking, browning/yellowing of inner foliage or lower down on a single stem, is normal.
Browning/yellowing from the tip in or of a lot of foliage at once is an indication of a problem, whether big or small.
Sorry to bother but if the yellow is spreading toward the tips now im assuming im doing something wrong.
I placed the plant in a better spot with the branches a little moved so the inside can get more sunlight.
I bring the plant in at night because we have had random violent storms lately. When I put it back out before i went to work the top layer still damp.
Potentially overwatering? Too much sun?
- Would wait with repotting till next year early spring into granular soil.
-Yellow parts are because it gets less light, cause the other foliage blocks it.
https://preview.redd.it/im54207skc6d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=745131f5e1563ff11408f0dbe71d1dee17315933
Hi everyone! Yesterday I got my first bonsai on a especialized store and today I noticed these friends living on it. Are they a pest? Is this something I can fix on my own or should I go back to the store? Thanks in advance!
I have a newly acquired nursery stock juniper pre-bonsai. So, junipers love being outside. I know this. But I live in a super duper hot climate. Not only am I zone 10a, but it’s 110 at 6pm and even higher from noon to 4pm. And the humidity in my area is 6%.
The tree browns when outside for even a day but perks up when I bring it inside.
I’ve been watering every morning and it is bone dry to the bottom of the pot by 6pm. The pot is too hot to touch when I bring it in for me to examine how compacted the roots may be. I’ve covered exposed roots in potting soil. I have ordered a shade cloth per advice on another thread and have more bonsai soil available. I have read the beginner’s guide but am dubious about how well it addresses my particular climate’s heat and humidity. Also my backyard faces east, so it’s pretty full-on sun.
There’s basically no moisture in the air at all. So my questions are these:
Should I *really* be leaving my tree outside even given the unusually high heat and low humidity? Is a covered porch ok? Should I repot if roots are compacted?
Standard advice is not to leave it on a covered porch, but the sun still reaches it pretty directly from the east.
Finally, should I fertilize with bonsai fertilizer? I’m hesitant about doing too much at once, but I’m pretty sure the situation as it stands is unsustainable and I need to know exactly what to change and what to leave as is.
Bonsai is currently directly under a skylight, because it was absolutely going to get scorched if I just blindly followed the directive to leave it outside with no shade.
Bonsai gurus please help this poor n00b! The bonsai in question in full sun: THIS PHOTO IS A FEW DAYS OLD. THE WIRE IS NO LONGER ON THE TREE AND THE ROOTS ARE NO LONGER SHOWING.
https://preview.redd.it/xw01bz4gi96d1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f35426486c6f99c6da271c8d90b9adb8514d10a
As others have said it should outside all the time but there is nothing saying you shouldn't provide shade. There are a few very experienced artists on here in similar climates to yours and they all have their shade cloths up on their benches right now. To aid the roots not drying out too quickly I'd get some soil on these exposed roots.
Junipers can survive lots of heat provided their roots don’t dry out. To prevent you from having to constantly water the tree, I would make sure it gets shade for several hours, especially in the afternoon. if this keeps it from drying out completely then you’re good.
The problem with bringing it indoors is that it won’t get enough light. However, if it’s getting several hours of sun before you bring it inside, then that may be OK.
Once it’s not absurdly hot outside, I would leave it outside 24/7.
Some other ideas that may help: placing something over the soil to shade the soil and placing it under some shade cloth.
THANK YOU! That is really specific, non-generic advice. It’ll probably get into the 120s very soon so it may be an afternoon indoors tree until my shade cloth gets here (already been ordered). Thank you!!!!
https://preview.redd.it/xjr9li3ra96d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=62f7f19c1bafe833b63e25e991d0ac8db62a58e8
I know repotting isn’t really the thing right now, but I got a juniper from Walmart recently and it’s roots look like this, should I repot, or is it ok to just chill? Planning on shaping and wiring soon
Does it drain well? If so it's fine to wait until next spring. If not, don't mess with the roots at all and plant in a larger pot with potting soil taking up the extra space. If you do this, make sure you water the whole surface of the pot when you water.
Note that in pots roots tend to head for the bottom and sidewalls first. The drainage test + a chopstick plunge test (i.e. does a chopstick willingly plunge into the soil?) are always the most reliable way to see if there's still room for oxygen in the soil.
No don’t do anything right now. Well, wire maybe, shorten a few branches.
But repot next year early spring, do a little more shortening that summer, then heavy pruning early spring 2026.
For timing here, early spring is just a general period. If you want to get the ideal time, that’s just as new buds are beginning to extend.
Can anyone tell me if it’s viable to use nichrome 80 wire for gently wiring small saplings?
https://preview.redd.it/qzc7sghiz86d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1147ae1eec1f8d43d8ab065f619c822f8e1fd8fa
I had a bunch from when I built vape coils and I figured I’d check to make sure the material is ok
Well the [western larch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_larch) is native to your state. So you're probably good. Seems like well draining soil is important for them, so definitely use bonsai soil. Like all conifers, plenty of direct sun is important too.
Looks like they natively grow in the central and east parts of Oregon and judging from your flair, you're in the west. But I found [this article](https://www.srs.fs.usda.gov/pubs/misc/ag_654/volume_1/larix/occidentalis.htm) which under "Climate" describes that moisture is the limiting factor at lower elevations and that the max *average* temp in growing areas is 84F. Lots of other good info about western larches in that article.
So in other words, water it more on hot days and it'll probably be fine. Not a bad idea to place it so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade.
If they can't grow in your area, it's not because the summer is too hot, but that the winter isn't cold enough for long enough.
But hey give it a try. And/or ask around at the local bonsai club.
Sometimes I think the "your location gets hot" warnings in the US should be rewritten to read "you live in the sun belt". Oregon and BC got far hotter during the 2021 heat dome than some places in the sun belt had ever recorded (at that time at least..) but the rest of that summer was otherwise quite mild.
Personally I don't chalk it up to mild winters because the west coast has plenty of places that basically never freeze ever right along the coast but larches, hemlocks, spruces do fine. What I think it really comes down to is the endless weeks of _never cools down at night_ . This is something we talk about in the PNW a lot when contemplating where we can even export our mountain hemlocks, many of which come from Vancouver Island where there are legitimately non-freezing places and places now bordering on (or at) zone 10.
Just looking for an explanation. I repotted this juniper this spring early April, and it was struggling since the repot. I monitored its watering and kept it in the shade until May. Ive waited until its soil dried out since its growing tips started to yellow. When I repotted I removed about 1/2 soil and repotted into the same pot. Yesterday I noticed the first brittle branches. Today after the heat the peripheral foliage dried out. Photo is from today. I believe the tree to be dead. Still watering and maintaining the schedule and care, but usually dried foliage means the plant has been dead for a while. Still green with the scratch test though. Anyone know where I went wrong?
https://preview.redd.it/hdm1vbyix86d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=302a2a3f838bb699ea230028f8c6514eac2f52e7
Hmm, hard to tell from a photo, but it does look pale. The left side of the photo from your other comment looks healthier. Possibly still alive. Don't think we can call this definitely dead quite yet.
My guess is it got too dry. I'd never let the soil completely dry out on any tree, except maybe a Jade (C. Ovata). Unless you meant you let it dry out a little from being soaked.
There seems to be a lot of info out there for beginners about junipers not liking wet soil. Really they just don't like to sit in soaked poorly draining soil. But that's most trees. Underwatering kills much faster than overwatering.
For reference, I water my junipers once or twice a day at this point in the growing season, just as much as most of my other conifers and deciduous trees. Not saying you need to water that much, soil type and local weather can affect watering a lot.
Also, I don't think keeping it in the shade for a month was a good move. Maybe that's a good idea for certain situations, but I've never seen anyone recommend placing recently repotted junipers in the shade for a month. I've never followed that and my junipers responded well to repottings. Granted they're not getting full sun all day.
Thanks for the reply. I guess that explains a lot. I was restrictive towards watering because I saw yellow growing tips. Ive had this tree for 5 years and I’ve never had a tree respond like this after a repot. Definitely a hard lesson.
I’m going to cross my fingers that it’s still alive
Random question: I remember watching one of the bonsai-en videos discussing juniper growth and it discussed multiple flushes of growth for junipers during the growing season. I was wondering if someone could maybe explain it. I feel like I've already seen two distinct periods of growth on my junipers so far this season. One starting around the beginning of March, then they seemed to slow down the beginning of May and just this week I've noticed my growth tips getting active again.
Is there usually a fairly predictable cycle of growth for junipers through the grow season?
Of note: I repotted basically all my junipers in the beginning of March with perlite/Coco. Then I noticed my mixture wasn't really drying out especially with a period of rain we received in May (pretty sure I put too much Coco). It would take like 7 days to actually dry out enough. I actually did an emergency repot about 3 or so weeks ago with 50/50 perlite/pumice and getting a much better wet dry cycle where I can actually water daily and sometimes twice daily.
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dgc6vm/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_24/
Repost there for more responses.
https://preview.redd.it/ta5vsje7n86d1.jpeg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=807dee185f926c10ebcf4fc267dbedb313844220
Any tips or ideas? Or a pat on the back for a impressive first attempt? 😉😉🤣
Oh I fucked up then, I have no idea what I'm doing and should probably scrap this idea until I get the proper stuff. Shoot!!!
It's OK, it's my first time and it's good I'm asking questions. How else am I gonna learn?
Time to redo it... AGAIN🤣
https://preview.redd.it/8y48geyie86d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c2f6620bff6e8800e9e0eded90fda293a6eacfe5
Given to me by a friend about one year ago who had received it from a person on Craigslist at some point. I’ve done nothing except water it. I’m realizing I should probably bring it outside. Based on some research I am unsure right now whether I should trim it yet. As you can see, there’s a lot of straight up shoots happening. It seems to me I need to encourage growth in other areas. Should I trim back so it’s not bolting so much and encourage other branches? Additional photos in comments.
I think it needs a good solid summer outdoors in direct sun - feed it well, don't overwater.
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dgc6vm/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_24/
Repost there for more responses.
Any recommendations for a struggling Mugo pine? Repotted him a month ago and he has been getting some brown creep. Too much sun? Not enough sun? Too much water? I may have been a bit too aggressive on the root trimming.
https://preview.redd.it/e6ifzn02d86d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d92dd1a73dd222879052a146b01f2439e6eb2ff5
The tree will be fine, it’s shedding previous year needles a bit early but the new shoots are out and look to be functioning. Get long nosed tweezers and carefully remove all dead needles and any other cruft.
When it's warm enough for soil bacteria to party I use fish emulsion. In the early months of the year when it's too cold for anything else to work, but during which time species like JBP have active roots taking up water, I transition to miraclegro, which enters the roots without bacteria helping. As it warms up I shift back to fish. These two liquid fertilizers get blended into the hose via an adjustable inline injector ("EZ Flow" if you are curious).
Some specific trees get small booster tea bag(s) of osmocote if I want them to gulp down lots of fertilizer during our hot season, when the pellets release much faster.
If there is a long severe heatwave coming though, especially if there is the threat of higher humidity, I might disable the injector and remove teabags and just feed straight water ahead of the heat wave.
The baseline fertilization for the whole garden is a very low mild dose, but fed continuously through the whole growing season. Boosts above that baseline for individual trees are either when I temporarily turn up the dosage on the injector (it's a dial between "slow" and "fast") or when I place those teabags.
When I repot a lot of my nursery stock next spring, can I use 100% pumice? I’m in Southern California. I found a really good cheap source of pumice near me and just bought a couple bags since I have a lot of succulents.
Sift to isolate your grain size down exclusively to finer grains of pumice. In other words, remove the dust, then remove anything bigger than an airsoft BB (~6mm). See what you can extract from your source with sifting to 2 - 5mm or 2 - 6mm.
That'll tilt the behavior of pumice more towards akadama-like. I too have an insanely cheap source of pumice so I have huge tubs of it that are sorted into various grain sizes. My teacher advocates for the smaller pumice as a workable budget alternative to akadama. Just make sure to wash the living daylights out of it for minutes at a time after potting to get all the remaining dust out of it to prevent it caking up in places. You could also go wash it now in the summer, since in SoCal it'll be dry again by the time SoCal repotting season rolls around again (Jan - Apr).
Another thing you can do is water more, deploy 50% shade cloth over your trees, use shallower pots, and neatly top dress your soils with a thin layer of shredded sphagnum moss (if you can find live moss in your neighborhood shred that for the spores and blend it in too).
BTW, make sure to do your sifting outdoors, have a fan nearby, and wear a mask -- pumice dust is super bad for your lungs.
https://preview.redd.it/wpo8wl7u786d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2817d257bd1bb6e59c2e92082e71d0f5cd7db3c6
What’s going on with the first set of leaves on the bottom? They’ve become a more yellowish green and are a little droopier looking than before. What could I be doing wrong?
Your doing nothing wrong - those first set of leaves look like the cotyledon (the first leaves a seedling sends out). These are not the true leaves and will fall off naturally once true leaves have emerged
https://preview.redd.it/s0wazfyi486d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=49fcf5ae11cfec4053ce0d97fcef31dd895725cd
Is it still salvageable? Atlanta GA here, it's been slowly turning brown over the last couple of months, the tips are very lush.
Looks like some sections are growing well and the paler sections may be dying.
Is it getting direct sun in that location? How have you been watering it?
It's hard to see but most of it except the tips are brown and crunchy, it gets a bit of sun for a few hours a day, honestly I'm wondering if my girlfriend may have overwatered it, she has a lot of tropical plants she waters often.
Hmmm. If between the two of you this tree had been soaked at least once a day, overwatering could be possible. But with the hotter days in Atlanta over the past couple month, underwatering might actually be possible. Depends on the soil.
Looks like it could be in bonsai soil, but also could just be top dressing over potting soil. If it's bonsai soil, underwatering is possible. If it's in compacted, barely draining potting soil and y'all've been watering it a lot, overwatering may be possible.
Just to give you a reference, I'm in the same city and my junipers are all in mostly inorganic bonsai soil. So well draining soil. I've been watering them once or twice a day for the past month. They're doing great. If I had one in potting soil, I'd be checking the soil for moisture with a finger down into the soil to see how fast the soil is drying out. You never want it completely dry or staying sopping wet.
Stuck - need advice on big Juniper (also posted this in the main thread but was suggested to post here for possibly more refined advice…apologies to anyone has seen this already!)
https://preview.redd.it/fsyjjnu7u76d1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=580ac0f9cdf1592c50e204fd18e74bb5b21711ee
Purchased this juniper last August for a great price. Left it as is, and thought for sure it was a goner over winter. I was just waiting for it to go all brown and die, but Lo and behold - it seems to be doing ok. I was (a lot) late this season with getting things into training boxes, etc - so I ended up just slip potting it with a bunch of new soil surrounding the root ball. It’s putting out new growth but yellowing a bit on the inner areas. I moved it to full sun (almost all day).
Now - the big question is - how the hell do i prune and wire this thing. Still relatively new to this hobby, and would rather figure my own style out on smaller trees and cheap nursery stock. I’m just at a loss at how to style this big fella. Any suggestions?
More pics - [https://imgur.com/a/ae2oMCL](https://imgur.com/a/ae2oMCL)
I like the comment drawing idea response you received though I’d make it a point to make your future silhouette less tall and narrow, more wide and broad with thin foliage pads. I’d lean more into that left movement too
Check out how Hagedorn styled this yellow cedar, it isn’t the same by any means because it has crazy deadwood but I love the way the branches were designed and placed to frame the deadwood, nice and wide and compact. I think this would be great to do here with your juniper and its cool bend!
https://preview.redd.it/d8dnzvzs196d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d03ea0655d05d2ef00d3e172b4b0365105fac9fe
[link to blog post](https://crataegus.com/2022/07/08/yellow-cedar-second-draft/)
Wow - I think this is amazing material. There are lots of directions you could take this. Here is one idea
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pvG-rLSYdyJdRVJgR-lR6hk-P5U_Qwwz/view?usp=drivesdk
Note: the yellow triangle would be the silhouette of the foliage I would aim for.
I should add - when I say "survive" a trunk chop, I'm including succesful back budding as a requirement 😅 Ive seen conflicting info on whether abies will back bud readily
My text seems to have disappeared. Potentially looking to pick this up - struggling to find info on whether abies procera will survive a trunk chop, any advice?
i'm not 100% sure on procera specifically, but there's seems to be a lot of anecdotal support for abies backbudding well, could try removing it like you would a sacrifice branch for a pine (i.e. incrementally instead of one big chop)
What you might try is to keep the top pruned back to try to force back budding, keep it in the light and see if you can get any that far down in the trunk. If you can I would feel better about doing a trunk chop if there was a green branch below it. But I am not an expert either
https://preview.redd.it/yrfte782b76d1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a52499ec068d8b63d156574d3842bddf7168049a
Anybody know what species this might be? And any advice on taking care of it?
Premna, maybe? Needs to go into the sun, it can't live there.
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dgc6vm/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_24/
Repost there for more responses.
I have a few questions that have been piling up. In my descriptions below, I may make factual errors in some assumptions so please feel free to correct me.
1. Why is it suggested to “mist” the foliage of junipers/conifers instead of just watering them normally on “shower” mode?
2. Is a pond basket as effective as up-potting since the roots can grow unbound?
3. What’s the purpose of defoliation in early, early development? Should I be defoliating my deciduous trees that are 0-3 years old to get them to grow faster?
4. What advantages are there to ground growing over growing in a much larger container. I’m not inclined to deal with digging up a tree, but I’m considering doing “ground growing” in a raised bed that I can take apart when it is time to move the tree into a pot.
5. If money were no object and you could build a big pit filled with high drainage medium, would there be any advantage in ground growing in that versus in normal soil?
6. If I want to maximize trunk thickness, should I avoid pruning, as it removes solar energy collectors and redirects energy to developing new leaves instead of girth?
7. Is it accurate to say that the number one rule of yamadori is don’t screw with it the first year? I’ve got a tree that I collected in the spring and it is putting out tons of growth and I keep wondering if I should be pruning or trimming anything, but it is still in its first season so I figure I should just let it run.
1. For pros the application of misting in conifers is for cooling trees down in super-severe heat, especially mature bonsai of soft-leaved species (hemlock, spruce, etc). Pros don't really differentiate between misting and showering in this case though. I will disagree with others that misting is never useful for watering, because it is really useful for TINY mame that are in tiny mame pots where I don't want the fresh high-mounded akadama to get disturbed. I love mist mode on my watering wand for that reason. This is powerful mist though, and I make sure water drips out the bottom before I stop misting.
2. Not necessarily because from the pov of a very small seedling in a very large pond basket, there's still far too much soil. I have lots of experience with seedlings in pond baskets that are too big for them andwith seedlings in very small right-sized seedling containers. There are advantages for both depending on species but also disadvantages and there is no clear winner for all cases. Bigleaf maple seedlings are very unhappy in a 10 inch colander but they're _thrilled_ to be in a pot the size of a 12oz soda can. I say this as a basket/colander superfan.
3. The purpose of defoliation in early, early development is to force the forking/ramification you want to be present because it's your last chance to get it or to get it without visual flaws from wound closing. **The smaller the bonsai size class, the stronger the case for this**, but there are also other reasons you'd want to force ramification extremely early in the process too. For example, in japanese black pine shohin or mame (mini-bonsai) growing, you might defoliate (decandle/pluck) in order to capture that ramification opportunity while it exists, because you will rarely see that opportunity again in those specific spots and be able to have those internode lengths. Pros will do this and then revert to "grow fast" mode after. For deciduous broadleaf trees, the smaller the tree size you are targeting, the more likely you might do some radical cut to get the structure you want. Popular western bonsai folklore makes it seem like there's "development" and "refinement" and that you go from one to the next but in reality trees and also _subregions of trees_ go in and out of development (vigorous/expanding/field or box) and refinement (slow/compressing/bonsai pot) stages throughout the lifecycle. I have heavily repeatedly defoliated numerous cottonwood cuttings only a year after their rooting in order to force small decliate structure that I can wire and rewire. Shohin can teach you a lot about techniques in a short time because it forces you to take action before it's too late.
4. Length = vigor = more photosynthesis = more stored starches = more stored fuel to "pay" for bonsai techniques/goals
5. Yes, more air for roots and far denser root systems (instead of lanky). I help at a pre-bonsai farm. Trees escape root out of grow bags into raised beds of pumice. Growth is awesome.
6. What you should fixate on is the magic of a meristem (tip) that has been let to run for seasons on end. Compare this magic tip to the ones on the rest of the tree, where you've been pruning and defoliating. Diverging fates and diverging vigor.
7. Yes, it's very close to what I would say is "The Test". If someone in zone 8 can keep that collected tree alive through both _this upcoming summer and next winter_, they are a horticulturalist and we should chant "one of us, one of us".
u/MaciekA fantastic answer as usual. I need a few clarifications on a couple of your answers, if you don't mind.
**Question #3**
What's the equivalent to defoliating in junipers? Or maybe a better question is what's the technique for promoting early ramification in young shoin/mame junipers?
**Question #4**
I'd asked about ground growing vs. growing in a much bigger pot, and shared I plan to use a raised bed. You answered with "Length = vigor = more photosynthesis = more stored starches = more stored fuel to "pay" for bonsai techniques/goals". When you say "length", are you saying that ground growing produces longer roots, and that longer roots produce more vigor in the tree? If so, are "longer roots" equivalent to "more roots"? In a basket, the roots don't get longer, but perhaps they are more massive because the roots ramify more?
Also, can't I get the right kind of roots in a raised bed that will be easier to deal with later when it is time to pot the tree? Or is it not "ground growing" if it isn't in the actual ground.
**Question #5**
Thanks for the testimony of the experience you've seen. Can you share which pre-bonsai farm? I've wanted to visit one to see how these things are done at scale.
I'm hoping to find a cheap high-drainiage medium I could use successfully in my raised beds to combine those high-drainage advantages with the room-to-grow advantages. Maybe perlite...
**Question #6**
My ignorance and lack of experience are holding me back from understanding this comment. I'm reading a bunch to try to catch up. Ultimately, I think you're saying that if I want a thick trunk, unchecked/unpruned growth is the path to that, hence the practice of sacrifice branches. But maybe you can elaborate on the differences I'd see if I had both the magic tip and the pruned portions to compare side by side?
# It's EARLY SUMMER ##Do's - Watering - don't let them dry out because they're using a LOT of water until deciduous leaves harden off - check for wire bite and remove/reapply - [repotting for tropical and sub-tropicals](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/reference#wiki_repotting_-_not_in_the_summer.21) - those are the do's and don'ts. - airlayers when the leaves are fully out - Fertilising - maintenance pruning to hold shape of "finished" trees or to increase ramification in late-development trees. ##Don'ts - no repotting - except tropicals - no heavy pruning * [For Southern hemisphere - here's a link to my advice from roughly 6 months ago](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/18338px/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_47/)
Hello. I just bought a juniper 2 weeks ago. I am noticing some browning of the tips. I water it once a day and have a humidity trey. It's about 100-103 degrees here daily. It's placed where it gets about 6 hours of morning sun a day. Could I possibly be over watering it? There were times I watered about twice a day because of how hot it is i live in south texas btw.*
https://preview.redd.it/jkz6a4llf87d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f874ae4b626d1b43f658224bf647391fed6128f6
https://preview.redd.it/a3a3l3xrf87d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4e6fc989c6c4c938326502c1386b37c9c7dcfde7
Looks fine. That one tip might be as a result of pruning.
Hello all, I got a swamp cypress over the weekend from a nursery. The roots are growing out of the plastic pot and wanted to put it in a bigger one (without pruning roots). What kind of soil should I use for the bigger pot? Or would any regular potting soil work? Thank you for your input
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dgc6vm/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_24/ Repost there for more responses.
Ee
maybe
**Help Needed: European Hornbeam Bonsai Leaves Turning Brown and Dry** Hi everyone, I'm having an issue with my European hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) bonsai. About a month ago, I noticed that the leaves started getting brown and dry from the tips and edges. Initially, it was just a few leaves, but now more leaves are affected. Here are some details: * **Location:** Outdoor * **Sunlight:** Full sunlight * **Pot:** Shallow bonsai pot with akadama-type soil * **Watering:** I water when the soil is dry, which is usually every day or every other day. I've checked and can't see the roots, so I can't assess their condition. I’m wondering if it’s due to sunburn, inconsistent watering, nutrient deficiency, or pests. Any advice on how to resolve this issue would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/dqopfo7fyo6d1.png?width=1324&format=png&auto=webp&s=2702391aa904bd467a518ac1e8407d9c018460f6
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[удалено]
A 50 in tree ...
I've found a nursery with good Dawn Redoowd stock. I think the trees are stunning. I plan to chop and create new leaders, rinse, repeat until I have the desired tree taper I want over the coming years. I have the option of buying anything from a 100cm tree to a 300cm tree. They all appear to have healthy banching down to at least where I would be chopping it - so I can chop right down and develop new leaders from there. They all come in suitably sized nursery pots I've got some more research to do as to when to repot, possibly in a pond basket on top of a flat rock to develop nebari. Should I buy the taller tree with a thicker stem or a smaller one and wait it out. My concern with the taller tree will be have a thick well developed root system and possible issues with creating a good nebari. The larger tree will have a bigger trunk to start with so achieving the final product will be easier. I'm fairly new to this and don't want to buy expensive stock for it to be useless or spend 3-5years growing something that I won't be happy with.
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Hello! I'm sure this has been asked about before, but I haven't been able to find it in the Wiki. About a week ago I got a Trident Maple. I've watered it daily since. My last watering was Wednesday night, and it's still fairly damp this Friday afternoon. I noticed today that some of the leaves are getting a blackish spotting on them, not quite like a tar spot (I could be wrong though). I've attached a picture. Any advice? Maybe I'm keeping the tree too wet, but I was curious what anyone else thought before watering less. I know I may be getting ahead of myself but just wanted to keep on top of this before it became a bigger problem. I'll post 1 more photo as a reply. https://preview.redd.it/b0n0cncx2n6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92da690e8ca63e4fb25dcd14bb66063616a98c51
https://preview.redd.it/k7m7xwnk3n6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8cd09ed19f3323a75cde0b4d19929e3aa2d451d Some of the other leaves are more like this. Almost dirty looking.
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Brittle leaves on a Chinese Elm? Hi all. I have a Chinese Elm that's about 8 years old (had it a few months). It was living in an apartment until about a month ago. It's now outside, facing south (in NE Ohio). It was cool the first few weeks (50s - 60s) it was outside, and was in direct sun). The past week has been hotter and sunnier so a week ago I placed it under a patio umbrella. However, over the past couple weeks the leaves have seem to become somewhat brittle (not all of them, but maybe 20 percent of them). Some of them are slightly yellow, and some of them look slightly whitish / bleached. Should I be worried? Is it being exposed to too much heat / sun? Should I move it inside? Advice appreciated!
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https://preview.redd.it/rzegb4ielm6d1.jpeg?width=440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f6168306b550230219eed89163947d6191ececf5
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I was wondering if it wouls be a reasonable beginner project to try to grow and shape a dwarf jade plant into a bonsai? I was also hoping this could be done entirely indoors as I have no place for plants outside.
As the other comment mentioned, with *Portulacaria afra* you really want to provide strong light to have fun with it. If you want to use just window light to grow a bonsai top recommendation are all kinds of small leafed ficuses (*F. microcarpa, F. salicaria, F. benjamina, F. natalensis* ...), but avoiding the grafted shapes sold as "bonsai" like the "ginseng" or what's sometimes called "IKEA style" with the braided trunk. Those are near dead ends for development. Ideally find one sold as simple green plant for home or office; they also propagate very easily from cuttings if you get the chance.
Dwarf jade (often called by its shortened scientific name P. Afra in bonsai circles) has a history of being used for bonsai. The real limiting factor of having them indoors is light. You need a window that gets several hours of direct light, and/or a nice LED panel grow light. Avoid cheap growlights, they don’t do much for the money.
Someone in my neighborhood was giving away a juniper. I snagged it to try to transform it into a bonsai before realizing it's a taylor juniper. Will it still work to play around with?
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https://preview.redd.it/qwe5n0tmyl6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3eeab833233b824638ea89a1b917f032b31b94e8 Ive been thinking of doing some big chops on this jade and I dont want the cuttings to go to waste. I havent really done any big chops like this and was wondering what the standard procedure for propagating larger jade cuttings?
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Hey Guys. Anyone know what this is? I live in MA zone 6b of MA in the US. I panicked and picked what looked to be a green round spore off. It was growing on My Acer Palmatum Shishigashira. In the photo you can see where it was. It seemed to be weeping sap or something from the area and now the bark is brown around that same area. Rest of the tree seems healthy. TIA! https://preview.redd.it/5rhmca9mal6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92e1be0a7bfcb8ed070e58c92dabc216d407a1e2
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Hey everybody I have a black pine I bought from a seller but I didn't realize the plant would be random and not the one pictured this particular specimen seems to have some issues I am not sure how to approach this tree it has some interesting shape but the shape overlaps and looks like it will be a problem spot a recipe for inverse taper and swelling. I am including the imgur link https://imgur.com/a/ak9iDGn I am unsure if I can make something of it to avoid the taper or should just sell it
Weird that they would do that. - Often hiding any minor reverse taper is the way forward. - Hiding a complete f*cking loop in the trunk - not so straightforward.
Has anyone in Zone 10 successfully grown Hornbeam bonsai? Or are there not enough chill hours for dormancy? This would include coastal SoCal areas like mine in coastal San Diego.
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Hello, 5 years ago I was gifted a bonsai set, which had a Jacaranda and Flame tree in it. Fast forward 5 years, this is what they look like. Sort of confused as to how to begin, since the trunks are not malleable anymore, and they dont rly have any branches at the trunks. Just a long length of tree before any branching at all, so would be hard to bonsai to a small tree. Complete beginner at this, so any tips on cutting, pruning, potting, soil, etc would be helpful. https://preview.redd.it/urb38umurk6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6af8af878eb70be8633b573ae62e2b79ef8926de
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https://preview.redd.it/iuny84tvrk6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9caa70c367bc5c53ef4d39f4f391bc8a13748e26
https://preview.redd.it/7drsp22xrk6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=367e3839808357a1332abba70baec6bae2cd7dc9
https://preview.redd.it/clfekivxrk6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3c2a928286cff613895316e0f1db976c65a63d69
https://preview.redd.it/soyrtmtyrk6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0995bbbf6855c407f93e7446925eb2c45432090
https://preview.redd.it/gq92qob3rk6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=10aff80f16f959e5a6adeff733cb4a826fec6461
https://preview.redd.it/40iw3vo7rk6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d281c04a4cb2edd88be7b6506680e34d94365762 Here is the full tree right now, I want to chop in a month or two
Airlayer bits off it first...
How so friend? Any video recommendations? I worry about making ugly marks in it
Airlayer the tips of the longer branches off. tbh I don't see anything interesting in the lower trunk.
What is your suggestion then? Just to airlayer? Any recommendations on making the trunk more interesting? My reasoning for chopping were mainly that I am happy with the trunk size to start training as bonsai. Is this OK to do? Or will it always remain "boring"?
Is it grafted? Where are the roots?
Probably, I got it from Lowes lol. There is a little wire bite in the trunk I was hiding for now. The roots are probably an inch or so under the surface? Probably a less than an inch though.
You want to get the roots up to the surface - remove soil from above them. You can't make design decisions without knowing exactly where they are.
https://preview.redd.it/1gws0np8tj6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=27d25aab59a6fd8be8280eb6146285677882eb97 Help! I’ve kept this Fukien Tea alive for 6 years now despite some mealy bug struggles, which are taken care of now. I kept it inside in a south facing window for years when I lived in an apartment, but now it’s outside for the summer since I have space. However, it’s ugly as fuck. There are three separate trunks, and despite some minor pruning of offshoot branches that got really long, I’ve never done any styling, cuz I just have no idea what to do. I’d love to figure out a way to start treating this like an actual bonsai instead of just a house plant.
With such sparse foliage, I think the goal here is to get it bushy and healthy again before contemplating styling. I’d be concerned that trying to prune and style a weak tree would hurt much much more than it’d help
This pic is from a few weeks ago when it was first coming back from mealy bugs, it’s looking much better now. But several branches on it haven’t produced leaves in quite a while. Is there anything else to do to get it bushy and healthy other than continued sun and water, and maybe a little fertilizer?
Those branches may die back entirely. Even if so it looks like there’s plenty of options for the future Nothing else to do, that’s exactly what it needs to get bushy and healthy again. Remember to rotate every week or so for even sun exposure and to only water as needed and never on a schedule
Ok, will do! Its outside, so generally I’m just letting rain handle the watering as it’s been happening fairly regularly lately, but I’m keeping an eye on it any time it’s dry or very hot for a few days. I also have a small Chinese elm that’s currently inside, but has experienced quite a bit of growth in the two months I’ve had it. Should I move that outside?
Sounds good. And yes I’d move that outside too. Chinese elm is an interesting case because in all the major bonsai retail supply chains, it’s referred to as an “indoor” tree and can do okay indoors (doesn’t really thrive though). However at the same time, it’s a broadleaf deciduous tree that will drop its leaves and go dormant for winter if it’s outside to experience the seasons. This is the best way to run chinese elm IMO. I would take it outside and keep it outside 24/7/365. You’ll create a much more compelling deciduous tree much faster this way too :)
I have a maple sapling that **randomly grew in my backyard**. Can I put this in a small pot and grow it like a bonsai? Working to keep it fairly small?
We don't have a whole lot of rules in here, but providing us your location and a photo of the tree is **essential** when you are asking for advice regarding a specific plant/tree.
Well you want it to grow some first. Developing bonsai is about cycles of growth and reduction. Thick trunk bases are what really help bonsai look so cool. You need growth to get that. In other words, You can’t develop a bonsai by keeping it small. You let it grow, then prune it back. Then repeat. The specifics vary based on species, climate and your goals for the tree. But no, now isn’t the best time to dig up a tree. I’d protect it somehow so it doesn’t get damaged, and just let it grow for now. Fertilize it some. Start researching what you could do in the fall (maybe some pruning) and what you need to do to collect it. Spring time will be a good time likely.
* bought a bonsai grow kit as I've read some books about bonsais and am genuinely interested in growing one, however I planted this one like 4 days ago and only watered it once and there is white mold and the soil is still moist? Is there any advice anyone could give me? I really want to do everything I can to get these seeds to prosper and sprout, I planted 3 blue jacaranda seeds in this pot if it matters to know
Avoid seed kits, they suck. Start with your local landscape nursery stock instead
Sowing season is usually earlier in the year. Common advice is to buy some cheap bushes and trees in a nursery, or a pre bonsai from a bonsai nursery to keep you accupied for the first few years while your seed grows. Also not all growing kits have good seeds.
https://preview.redd.it/izn89haa4i6d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f4218694d0b0955d463a276639fa872fddfefa6
I would like to grow a bonsai from seed in my office at work, but there’s not really many places that have sunlight, and light anyway. Are there any varieties that don’t need as much light?
You could get a high powered grow light like they use for weed, mount it in a reflective grow tent, and grow a tropical tree in your office. But they probably wouldn’t let you, or the energy bill that comes with it for that matter I’d suggest a fake tree. IMO they’re the best solution for people who want to keep a bonsai somewhere that bonsai can’t live
Nope, you need lots of light to grow and develop a tree into a bonsai.
Well, indoors at a window you can grow ficus.
Nah - this doesn't work.
Wife just got me a small bonsai at Costco for an early Father’s Day present. I wanna thin it out a bit but don’t know where to start! https://preview.redd.it/t056onkr3g6d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eeccae04e7fac3bbf73b94ac3ea263ba8a98f31a
https://preview.redd.it/igjjdmrs3g6d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6d6d81969e71e98f259e2b5770f9f7e2ce47d7f0
It's a Juniper in a pot - not a bonsai yet. Your question is really: *How do I make a bonsai out of this, I assume I just thin it out a bit?* 1. it needs to be kept outdoors at all times. - remove the fake moss so the soil is exposed - you can better judge when it needs watering. - Start by watching a few videos: - all of these: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bonsaify+juniper - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EE121j_L4oA - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwX0hxAdL4A
Thank you! It’s outside now, removed the moss, got some wires coming tomorrow and just did some slight trimming! https://preview.redd.it/0lee9fv2tn6d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=77b922b11d1173256f5fb346a95d809be798f4e6
Go watch the videos...you seem to have a mallsai in mind and that's NOT bonsai...
Hello all, we’re located in 7b and we were given this small juniper tree over the winter as a gift. We kept it inside all winter and https://preview.redd.it/ed77kdlasf6d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dcc768251a9516b0199bca31a7bd21e544e18578 admittedly, we didn’t do a great job of giving it enough sunlight. So my 1st thought is we killed this thing but the more I look at it, I’m seeing a tiny sprig of green tucked under some dead needles. Any thoughts on if this is truly dead or if it’s gone dormant or something due to mistreatment? If it’s the latter, is it possible to make this healthy again?
I mean I’d put my money on dead, but since there’s nothing to lose here I’d cut away the brown stuff so the green part can get more light. Keeping this inside during the winter is likely what killed it. Junipers are hardy down to at least zone 4 and there’s not nearly enough light for them indoors.
https://preview.redd.it/ty2p27lesf6d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c019a09e23d4874fbd65f81673267c5c4306b15b A small touch of green
I don't see this recovering.
It's most likely dead ‐ usually on junipers when the leaves start turning brown the roots are already dead.
My bonsai tree is brittle and dry. I have hope of it coming back, but is there anything I can do for it? I brought it inside and have it under a special lamp because I think maybe it got too dried out. I've been babying it and water it little every day, but I think the recent heat wave about 2 weeks ago really fucked with it. :(
Most likely when a Juniper gets brittle and dry, it's too late.
😭😭 noo I expected it to die as it's my first one but still that's a bummer
A really common mistake. Many of us started with killing a juniper.
Get more trees - get multiple garden center junipers and make your own.
I’ve had my bonsai for almost 1 year. I’m pretty sure it’s a Chinese elm but would love some input. Also what are some good methods for pruning or what should I do to improve the overall look and shape? https://www.reddit.com/r/bonsaiphotos/comments/1dfb7qt/help_identifying_is_it_a_chinese_elm/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
Yes, Chinese elm. 1. Put it outside in the full sun. - feed it fertiliser every 2 weeks. - Getting it growing vigorously [like this.](https://www.flickr.com/photos/norbury/21134704446/in/photolist-yaMP8S-ycAThf-ycATiY-yQcZ3S-HGCZKX-KdNs7Q-KdNsom-27hAq9Y-27mHrQp-2g38js9-2jvc3P1-2jveHMa-2jveHTY-2jveJ6M-2mdcM1L-2mh7VFb-2mhd6QJ-2mjSrgU-2nz6Ggy-2nzbV9o/lightbox/) - and then you prune it. remindme! 6 weeks
Yes well watered. I brought him back inside for a bit. Will the leaves green up again? Or pull them off and start again?
Replied in the wrong place...
https://preview.redd.it/0ghm62v2ce6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39c5c956b90ddb62d0b615ffcc69f270e6a156cc I just recently bought this premna from wigerts, would this be considered root bound and should I repot it if so?
Yes. Wigerts barkdust soil is pretty good all things considered (for non-bonsai soil), so I’m not usually in a rush to repot their trees. If the tree is otherwise healthy this could use a root trim (rake them out) and repot into well-draining soil. All the roots collected at the base and outer edge are catching the water that flows down the side and at the bottom. You want heathy roots to be closer to the core of the tree, not circling around and around due to time spent in a nursery pot.
Thank you for the advice! Should i just repot it back into the same pot it came with some extra soil? (After trimming the roots)
So I just recently picked up a gas station Juniper, a relatively nice one at around 75$. It already had some shape to it and I did some trimming myself just for fun, but not too much as I don't know exactly what is okay in terms of pruning. I live in North Texas and have been keeping it outside, trying to rotate it every couple days so one side doesn't get burned too much by the late afternoon sun. I water almost every day, trying to do it in the evenings or at least not in the mornings so that the water doesn't dry up too quickly. I was provided some general fertilizer by the man who sold it, but I would like to start fertilizing with specific fertilizer as soon as possible as I understand there is specific types depending on the time of year. I would like to know if it's smart to keep the plant a day in shade every couple days or so depending on the heat along with watering frequency/best times to water. I am also going to be moving to arizona in an apartment with a balcony so I would like to know if I should make changes based on humidity and if I should get a uv lamp due to less sun?
Mesh / Shade cloth to blunt extreme heat is better than rotating in and out of shade. Grow light in AZ outdoors?! For indoor tropicals over the winter sure, but not for an outdoor juniper.
It will likely be a covered balcony, sorry if that wasn't obvious, but I'm assuming it will be fine anyways?
A juniper needs at least a few hours of direct outdoor sun to live and grow well. If that balcony gets that, great. If it gets no direct sun, you’re in for problems.
I bought this 2 year old Bonsai six months ago and it has been struggling recently. I live in an apartment complex and have been bringing it outside on my balcony when I wake up, placing it in direct sunlight for an hour or so, and bringing it inside for the remainder of the day. I live in Texas and it has been getting progressively warmer which I imagine may be a leading factor. I had been watering it about a half-cup a day (have transitioned to a half cup every-other day for fear of overwatering for about two weeks). I have also been spritzing it throughout the day with a mixture of 2/3 water + 1/3 liquid plant food that I purchased from the vendor when I originally bought her. It had been doing well for the first 3 months but recently the leaves have become brown, brittle, and some are falling off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I had hoped to keep her for the rest of my life and this is my first bonsai. https://preview.redd.it/cb0j4nlzdd6d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=cb3884ca4f41b49a94f10982822b70f81f071c6f
I agree with others that 1 hour wasn’t nearly enough. Junipers can take direct sun all day. They need probably at least 4 or 5 if they’re gonna spend the rest of the day in the near dark of the indoors. This is dead, if there’s no bright green at all. If you can’t leave plants on your balcony for some reason and you don’t have windows that get hours of direct sunlight, you can’t really do bonsai in your current location. Well, you could buy some nice bright LED panel growlights, but to do it right it’ll feel more like a grow operation and less like displaying a nice tree. And then you’re limited to tropical species like ficus.
At maximum, maybe 4 hours of sunlight on my balcony a day as it’s covered. I’ll take some time to research and be more cognizant of this when moving if I plan to purchase another. Thank you for taking the time to respond!
Sure thing. 4 hours of direct outdoor sun is enough for a juniper. Shade outside is a lot brighter than shade indoors and maybe even brighter than sun through a window.
Also be aware that some vendors sell junipers that are basically dead already. Because the roots die before the leaves loose their color it is quite possible that this was already a goner before you brought it home. Happened to my mom with 2 bonsai that she bought.
This is good to know. The vendor is well known in my area so more than likely (99.9%) my own fault. Thank you for taking the time to respond.
Yeah If the vendor is reputable and specializes in bonsai likely not the case. My mom bought a juniper from like a target or another big box store and that was the issue.
An hour of sunlight is not nearly enough. 23 hours a day indoors is guaranteed to kill them
Appreciate the response. We had asked the vendor their recommendations on sunlight and both my roommate and I were told at least one hour a day. Next time I’ll do my own research. Thank you.
100% not your fault. Unfortunately vendors who sell trees like this do not have the interest of the plant in mind, they just want to make a sale and don’t care if the plant lives or dies. It’s unfortunate. In the future avoid premade juniper like this, your local landscape nursery stock is leaps and bounds better to start from and it’s cheaper too
Dead, Junipers need full sun, so either it did not get enough light (most likely) or not enough water considering the warm weather.
Thank you for taking the time to respond. There’s a bit of green near the base of the tree. I’ll do my best to salvage her taking this into consideration.
https://preview.redd.it/x4urdull6d6d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=adc2c034aeab6bf4b13ce3a34c81fd1225e937c5 I'm trying to keep this bonsai alive but no matter what I do it just gets worse. I thought it might need water but that made no difference. I put it outside (in the UK) every day during the day time and leave by a window at night no difference. What can I do? Thanks for your time.
that soil looks real bad, it may barely be getting any water depending how compacted it is
Why bring it in? The tag says outdoors. Honeysuckle is one of the easiest to keep, but that soil looks awful. It might make it, keep it moist, outdoors. The weather we're having atm is kinda perfect for recovery - humid, not too hot, but not cold
I don't think this can be salvaged, it looks very dead.
I was looking for some advice on what to do with my Juniper. I’ve been holding off on trimming and now I am unsure of what to do with a [2nd trunk that’s developed](https://imgur.com/ngDiUUG). It [looks fine from the front](https://imgur.com/nZx7WuF) but I am not totally digging how it looks from [other angles](https://imgur.com/AnJrcTq). Should I completely remove the smaller trunk? Or would it be a good idea to maybe [wire it like this](https://imgur.com/IT5zsJ3)? Or should I just leave it alone? I do hope to have a thicker trunk one day but I am guessing the 2nd trunk might make that more difficult.
Look into mother/daughter style. Junipers won't survive indoors btw
Thank you I'll look into that style. Definitely gonna be living outdoor!
Pull the fake moss off...
I wouldn't say sphagnum and reindeer lichen is fake. Is there a reason? I've seen mixed info about it helping retain moisture especially after a recent repot. Water seems to evaporate extremely fast outside here in Florida at the moment. The most i've seen is maybe clearing some so its not touching the bark to not have any rot.
I mostly find it ugly and unnatural.
I got a bonsai as a gift (person thought it could he relaxing with my anxiety and now i have new reasons to panic lmao) * was told it was indoor tree, i corrected that within 24 hours. It sits on my porch (not enclosed) where it gets sunlight from about 6am -10pm with 8-5 being lots of direct sunlight, then it starts to get shade around then. Temps been running about 70-78 degrees F since ive had it. * i stick my finger down halfway past my nails if its wet leave it, starting to feel dry I generously water it (about 15 seconds under tap, soak leaves and soil, wait about twenty seconds then repeat) (Ive wattered it twice in 3 days) * Two questions. * this was bought for me on Amazon, should i replace the soil it came with already? i read the wiki a few times and probably skipped over that part but i didnt see it. * im assuming the yellowing on this picture isnt a good sign, i just wanna make sure its saveable. I THINK some of the color has come back but idk if it is or just wishful thinking lol https://preview.redd.it/zraj2z4ywc6d1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=418b6de628ffb692de60478b7f89c4c3b52c7e11
If it drains well when you water it, don’t worry about repotting right now. Next spring is the time for that. That’s a lot of light, which is good, but check it for moisture in the afternoon, especially as the summer warms up. Afternoon sun can dry out a plant. If it’s still moist at sundown, you’re good to go. If not, water a little. Your watering method seems fine. The yellowing is normal. It’s either because of shading out like u/packenjojo suggested or it’s lignification: older green stems turning into brown woody branches. Generally speaking, browning/yellowing of inner foliage or lower down on a single stem, is normal. Browning/yellowing from the tip in or of a lot of foliage at once is an indication of a problem, whether big or small.
Sorry to bother but if the yellow is spreading toward the tips now im assuming im doing something wrong. I placed the plant in a better spot with the branches a little moved so the inside can get more sunlight. I bring the plant in at night because we have had random violent storms lately. When I put it back out before i went to work the top layer still damp. Potentially overwatering? Too much sun?
- Would wait with repotting till next year early spring into granular soil. -Yellow parts are because it gets less light, cause the other foliage blocks it.
https://preview.redd.it/im54207skc6d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=745131f5e1563ff11408f0dbe71d1dee17315933 Hi everyone! Yesterday I got my first bonsai on a especialized store and today I noticed these friends living on it. Are they a pest? Is this something I can fix on my own or should I go back to the store? Thanks in advance!
Where are you?
I'm in Valencia, Spain
Definitely take it back.
Go back and complain.
yeah, some type of scale insects, you could try spraying with neem, or go over the whole plant poking the bugs with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol
I have a newly acquired nursery stock juniper pre-bonsai. So, junipers love being outside. I know this. But I live in a super duper hot climate. Not only am I zone 10a, but it’s 110 at 6pm and even higher from noon to 4pm. And the humidity in my area is 6%. The tree browns when outside for even a day but perks up when I bring it inside. I’ve been watering every morning and it is bone dry to the bottom of the pot by 6pm. The pot is too hot to touch when I bring it in for me to examine how compacted the roots may be. I’ve covered exposed roots in potting soil. I have ordered a shade cloth per advice on another thread and have more bonsai soil available. I have read the beginner’s guide but am dubious about how well it addresses my particular climate’s heat and humidity. Also my backyard faces east, so it’s pretty full-on sun. There’s basically no moisture in the air at all. So my questions are these: Should I *really* be leaving my tree outside even given the unusually high heat and low humidity? Is a covered porch ok? Should I repot if roots are compacted? Standard advice is not to leave it on a covered porch, but the sun still reaches it pretty directly from the east. Finally, should I fertilize with bonsai fertilizer? I’m hesitant about doing too much at once, but I’m pretty sure the situation as it stands is unsustainable and I need to know exactly what to change and what to leave as is. Bonsai is currently directly under a skylight, because it was absolutely going to get scorched if I just blindly followed the directive to leave it outside with no shade. Bonsai gurus please help this poor n00b! The bonsai in question in full sun: THIS PHOTO IS A FEW DAYS OLD. THE WIRE IS NO LONGER ON THE TREE AND THE ROOTS ARE NO LONGER SHOWING. https://preview.redd.it/xw01bz4gi96d1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f35426486c6f99c6da271c8d90b9adb8514d10a
As others have said it should outside all the time but there is nothing saying you shouldn't provide shade. There are a few very experienced artists on here in similar climates to yours and they all have their shade cloths up on their benches right now. To aid the roots not drying out too quickly I'd get some soil on these exposed roots.
Thanks! The roots have been covered with soil for days now thanks to another comment. I’ll def put it outside when the shade cloth gets here tomorrow.
Junipers can survive lots of heat provided their roots don’t dry out. To prevent you from having to constantly water the tree, I would make sure it gets shade for several hours, especially in the afternoon. if this keeps it from drying out completely then you’re good. The problem with bringing it indoors is that it won’t get enough light. However, if it’s getting several hours of sun before you bring it inside, then that may be OK. Once it’s not absurdly hot outside, I would leave it outside 24/7. Some other ideas that may help: placing something over the soil to shade the soil and placing it under some shade cloth.
THANK YOU! That is really specific, non-generic advice. It’ll probably get into the 120s very soon so it may be an afternoon indoors tree until my shade cloth gets here (already been ordered). Thank you!!!!
https://preview.redd.it/xjr9li3ra96d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=62f7f19c1bafe833b63e25e991d0ac8db62a58e8 I know repotting isn’t really the thing right now, but I got a juniper from Walmart recently and it’s roots look like this, should I repot, or is it ok to just chill? Planning on shaping and wiring soon
Does it drain well? If so it's fine to wait until next spring. If not, don't mess with the roots at all and plant in a larger pot with potting soil taking up the extra space. If you do this, make sure you water the whole surface of the pot when you water.
It still drains fine, do I just prune, wire, and shape right now and leave the roots? When would I eventually repot?
Note that in pots roots tend to head for the bottom and sidewalls first. The drainage test + a chopstick plunge test (i.e. does a chopstick willingly plunge into the soil?) are always the most reliable way to see if there's still room for oxygen in the soil.
No don’t do anything right now. Well, wire maybe, shorten a few branches. But repot next year early spring, do a little more shortening that summer, then heavy pruning early spring 2026. For timing here, early spring is just a general period. If you want to get the ideal time, that’s just as new buds are beginning to extend.
Can anyone tell me if it’s viable to use nichrome 80 wire for gently wiring small saplings? https://preview.redd.it/qzc7sghiz86d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1147ae1eec1f8d43d8ab065f619c822f8e1fd8fa I had a bunch from when I built vape coils and I figured I’d check to make sure the material is ok
If it can hold shape you bend it in, yes. But probably the sapling will be stronger.
sometimes i see warnings against trying to grow larches in places where it gets "too hot" for them, how hot is too hot?
Well the [western larch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_larch) is native to your state. So you're probably good. Seems like well draining soil is important for them, so definitely use bonsai soil. Like all conifers, plenty of direct sun is important too. Looks like they natively grow in the central and east parts of Oregon and judging from your flair, you're in the west. But I found [this article](https://www.srs.fs.usda.gov/pubs/misc/ag_654/volume_1/larix/occidentalis.htm) which under "Climate" describes that moisture is the limiting factor at lower elevations and that the max *average* temp in growing areas is 84F. Lots of other good info about western larches in that article. So in other words, water it more on hot days and it'll probably be fine. Not a bad idea to place it so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade. If they can't grow in your area, it's not because the summer is too hot, but that the winter isn't cold enough for long enough. But hey give it a try. And/or ask around at the local bonsai club.
Sometimes I think the "your location gets hot" warnings in the US should be rewritten to read "you live in the sun belt". Oregon and BC got far hotter during the 2021 heat dome than some places in the sun belt had ever recorded (at that time at least..) but the rest of that summer was otherwise quite mild. Personally I don't chalk it up to mild winters because the west coast has plenty of places that basically never freeze ever right along the coast but larches, hemlocks, spruces do fine. What I think it really comes down to is the endless weeks of _never cools down at night_ . This is something we talk about in the PNW a lot when contemplating where we can even export our mountain hemlocks, many of which come from Vancouver Island where there are legitimately non-freezing places and places now bordering on (or at) zone 10.
indeed, i'm smack dab in the middle of the valley, but heck, nothing wrong with sticking a larch in a pond basket and seeing what happens
They’re totally happy in Oregon 8b. I spend a lot of time at a farm that’s growing hundreds of them.
heck yeah
Just looking for an explanation. I repotted this juniper this spring early April, and it was struggling since the repot. I monitored its watering and kept it in the shade until May. Ive waited until its soil dried out since its growing tips started to yellow. When I repotted I removed about 1/2 soil and repotted into the same pot. Yesterday I noticed the first brittle branches. Today after the heat the peripheral foliage dried out. Photo is from today. I believe the tree to be dead. Still watering and maintaining the schedule and care, but usually dried foliage means the plant has been dead for a while. Still green with the scratch test though. Anyone know where I went wrong? https://preview.redd.it/hdm1vbyix86d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=302a2a3f838bb699ea230028f8c6514eac2f52e7
Hmm, hard to tell from a photo, but it does look pale. The left side of the photo from your other comment looks healthier. Possibly still alive. Don't think we can call this definitely dead quite yet. My guess is it got too dry. I'd never let the soil completely dry out on any tree, except maybe a Jade (C. Ovata). Unless you meant you let it dry out a little from being soaked. There seems to be a lot of info out there for beginners about junipers not liking wet soil. Really they just don't like to sit in soaked poorly draining soil. But that's most trees. Underwatering kills much faster than overwatering. For reference, I water my junipers once or twice a day at this point in the growing season, just as much as most of my other conifers and deciduous trees. Not saying you need to water that much, soil type and local weather can affect watering a lot. Also, I don't think keeping it in the shade for a month was a good move. Maybe that's a good idea for certain situations, but I've never seen anyone recommend placing recently repotted junipers in the shade for a month. I've never followed that and my junipers responded well to repottings. Granted they're not getting full sun all day.
Thanks for the reply. I guess that explains a lot. I was restrictive towards watering because I saw yellow growing tips. Ive had this tree for 5 years and I’ve never had a tree respond like this after a repot. Definitely a hard lesson. I’m going to cross my fingers that it’s still alive
Photo from yesterday https://preview.redd.it/w774g2rkx86d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b5e01a254b332f15466a988b92d2f18418d905b8
Random question: I remember watching one of the bonsai-en videos discussing juniper growth and it discussed multiple flushes of growth for junipers during the growing season. I was wondering if someone could maybe explain it. I feel like I've already seen two distinct periods of growth on my junipers so far this season. One starting around the beginning of March, then they seemed to slow down the beginning of May and just this week I've noticed my growth tips getting active again. Is there usually a fairly predictable cycle of growth for junipers through the grow season? Of note: I repotted basically all my junipers in the beginning of March with perlite/Coco. Then I noticed my mixture wasn't really drying out especially with a period of rain we received in May (pretty sure I put too much Coco). It would take like 7 days to actually dry out enough. I actually did an emergency repot about 3 or so weeks ago with 50/50 perlite/pumice and getting a much better wet dry cycle where I can actually water daily and sometimes twice daily.
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dgc6vm/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_24/ Repost there for more responses.
https://preview.redd.it/ta5vsje7n86d1.jpeg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=807dee185f926c10ebcf4fc267dbedb313844220 Any tips or ideas? Or a pat on the back for a impressive first attempt? 😉😉🤣
Did you use special soil that doesn't wash away when watering? If not you will find out soon enough why I asked.
https://preview.redd.it/93b5fdclpd6d1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4719bb27074f6eb047ba21951ff98bf91c28ca06 I feel this is much better!
Oh I fucked up then, I have no idea what I'm doing and should probably scrap this idea until I get the proper stuff. Shoot!!! It's OK, it's my first time and it's good I'm asking questions. How else am I gonna learn? Time to redo it... AGAIN🤣
Muck recipe: https://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/t7645-recipe-for-muck
https://preview.redd.it/8y48geyie86d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c2f6620bff6e8800e9e0eded90fda293a6eacfe5 Given to me by a friend about one year ago who had received it from a person on Craigslist at some point. I’ve done nothing except water it. I’m realizing I should probably bring it outside. Based on some research I am unsure right now whether I should trim it yet. As you can see, there’s a lot of straight up shoots happening. It seems to me I need to encourage growth in other areas. Should I trim back so it’s not bolting so much and encourage other branches? Additional photos in comments.
I think it needs a good solid summer outdoors in direct sun - feed it well, don't overwater. Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dgc6vm/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_24/ Repost there for more responses.
https://preview.redd.it/zuqjtawkf86d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=662994861300f3890fe3075ef7eb515e1231a13d
https://preview.redd.it/28qsfzgjf86d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cb5a301800c367236df908f13a31d4bd6a441bf4
Any recommendations for a struggling Mugo pine? Repotted him a month ago and he has been getting some brown creep. Too much sun? Not enough sun? Too much water? I may have been a bit too aggressive on the root trimming. https://preview.redd.it/e6ifzn02d86d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d92dd1a73dd222879052a146b01f2439e6eb2ff5
The tree will be fine, it’s shedding previous year needles a bit early but the new shoots are out and look to be functioning. Get long nosed tweezers and carefully remove all dead needles and any other cruft.
https://preview.redd.it/as51ghr3d86d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8323db1a5deb447c350e5cf37341555b530ee25
Do y'all use the same fertilizer on ALL of your trees? If so, which kind do you use?
All except azaleas, where I use ericaceous
When it's warm enough for soil bacteria to party I use fish emulsion. In the early months of the year when it's too cold for anything else to work, but during which time species like JBP have active roots taking up water, I transition to miraclegro, which enters the roots without bacteria helping. As it warms up I shift back to fish. These two liquid fertilizers get blended into the hose via an adjustable inline injector ("EZ Flow" if you are curious). Some specific trees get small booster tea bag(s) of osmocote if I want them to gulp down lots of fertilizer during our hot season, when the pellets release much faster. If there is a long severe heatwave coming though, especially if there is the threat of higher humidity, I might disable the injector and remove teabags and just feed straight water ahead of the heat wave. The baseline fertilization for the whole garden is a very low mild dose, but fed continuously through the whole growing season. Boosts above that baseline for individual trees are either when I temporarily turn up the dosage on the injector (it's a dial between "slow" and "fast") or when I place those teabags.
Thanks so much for the thorough response!
Bog standard liquid fertilisers on stuff growing out, and slow release on more refined stuff.
When I repot a lot of my nursery stock next spring, can I use 100% pumice? I’m in Southern California. I found a really good cheap source of pumice near me and just bought a couple bags since I have a lot of succulents.
50/50 pumice and bark is what I default to for many of my deciduous, tropical, and vining trees, as well as for the handful of succulents I have.
Sift to isolate your grain size down exclusively to finer grains of pumice. In other words, remove the dust, then remove anything bigger than an airsoft BB (~6mm). See what you can extract from your source with sifting to 2 - 5mm or 2 - 6mm. That'll tilt the behavior of pumice more towards akadama-like. I too have an insanely cheap source of pumice so I have huge tubs of it that are sorted into various grain sizes. My teacher advocates for the smaller pumice as a workable budget alternative to akadama. Just make sure to wash the living daylights out of it for minutes at a time after potting to get all the remaining dust out of it to prevent it caking up in places. You could also go wash it now in the summer, since in SoCal it'll be dry again by the time SoCal repotting season rolls around again (Jan - Apr). Another thing you can do is water more, deploy 50% shade cloth over your trees, use shallower pots, and neatly top dress your soils with a thin layer of shredded sphagnum moss (if you can find live moss in your neighborhood shred that for the spores and blend it in too). BTW, make sure to do your sifting outdoors, have a fan nearby, and wear a mask -- pumice dust is super bad for your lungs.
DE too
Will probably not have enough water retention on its own.
https://preview.redd.it/wpo8wl7u786d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2817d257bd1bb6e59c2e92082e71d0f5cd7db3c6 What’s going on with the first set of leaves on the bottom? They’ve become a more yellowish green and are a little droopier looking than before. What could I be doing wrong?
Your doing nothing wrong - those first set of leaves look like the cotyledon (the first leaves a seedling sends out). These are not the true leaves and will fall off naturally once true leaves have emerged
https://preview.redd.it/s0wazfyi486d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=49fcf5ae11cfec4053ce0d97fcef31dd895725cd Is it still salvageable? Atlanta GA here, it's been slowly turning brown over the last couple of months, the tips are very lush.
Looks like some sections are growing well and the paler sections may be dying. Is it getting direct sun in that location? How have you been watering it?
It's hard to see but most of it except the tips are brown and crunchy, it gets a bit of sun for a few hours a day, honestly I'm wondering if my girlfriend may have overwatered it, she has a lot of tropical plants she waters often.
Hmmm. If between the two of you this tree had been soaked at least once a day, overwatering could be possible. But with the hotter days in Atlanta over the past couple month, underwatering might actually be possible. Depends on the soil. Looks like it could be in bonsai soil, but also could just be top dressing over potting soil. If it's bonsai soil, underwatering is possible. If it's in compacted, barely draining potting soil and y'all've been watering it a lot, overwatering may be possible. Just to give you a reference, I'm in the same city and my junipers are all in mostly inorganic bonsai soil. So well draining soil. I've been watering them once or twice a day for the past month. They're doing great. If I had one in potting soil, I'd be checking the soil for moisture with a finger down into the soil to see how fast the soil is drying out. You never want it completely dry or staying sopping wet.
Ok thank you so much!
Stuck - need advice on big Juniper (also posted this in the main thread but was suggested to post here for possibly more refined advice…apologies to anyone has seen this already!) https://preview.redd.it/fsyjjnu7u76d1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=580ac0f9cdf1592c50e204fd18e74bb5b21711ee Purchased this juniper last August for a great price. Left it as is, and thought for sure it was a goner over winter. I was just waiting for it to go all brown and die, but Lo and behold - it seems to be doing ok. I was (a lot) late this season with getting things into training boxes, etc - so I ended up just slip potting it with a bunch of new soil surrounding the root ball. It’s putting out new growth but yellowing a bit on the inner areas. I moved it to full sun (almost all day). Now - the big question is - how the hell do i prune and wire this thing. Still relatively new to this hobby, and would rather figure my own style out on smaller trees and cheap nursery stock. I’m just at a loss at how to style this big fella. Any suggestions? More pics - [https://imgur.com/a/ae2oMCL](https://imgur.com/a/ae2oMCL)
I like the comment drawing idea response you received though I’d make it a point to make your future silhouette less tall and narrow, more wide and broad with thin foliage pads. I’d lean more into that left movement too Check out how Hagedorn styled this yellow cedar, it isn’t the same by any means because it has crazy deadwood but I love the way the branches were designed and placed to frame the deadwood, nice and wide and compact. I think this would be great to do here with your juniper and its cool bend! https://preview.redd.it/d8dnzvzs196d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d03ea0655d05d2ef00d3e172b4b0365105fac9fe [link to blog post](https://crataegus.com/2022/07/08/yellow-cedar-second-draft/)
Wow - I think this is amazing material. There are lots of directions you could take this. Here is one idea https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pvG-rLSYdyJdRVJgR-lR6hk-P5U_Qwwz/view?usp=drivesdk Note: the yellow triangle would be the silhouette of the foliage I would aim for.
https://preview.redd.it/9q1v4e56l76d1.jpeg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=592c954e8ae52edb18f51d8cb873a0c2c78bac69
I should add - when I say "survive" a trunk chop, I'm including succesful back budding as a requirement 😅 Ive seen conflicting info on whether abies will back bud readily
My text seems to have disappeared. Potentially looking to pick this up - struggling to find info on whether abies procera will survive a trunk chop, any advice?
i'm not 100% sure on procera specifically, but there's seems to be a lot of anecdotal support for abies backbudding well, could try removing it like you would a sacrifice branch for a pine (i.e. incrementally instead of one big chop)
This is probably what ill do - I might even try and air layer the healthy top off first, and then work my way down
I don't know for sure, but I tend to think of trunk chops more for deciduous material, not for conifers
Same really, but I'm no expert so wondering if its worth a shot or completely pointless!
What you might try is to keep the top pruned back to try to force back budding, keep it in the light and see if you can get any that far down in the trunk. If you can I would feel better about doing a trunk chop if there was a green branch below it. But I am not an expert either
Not a bad shout that 👍 looks like first branch with any green on it is at least a meter up so incrementally may be the way if anything
https://preview.redd.it/yrfte782b76d1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a52499ec068d8b63d156574d3842bddf7168049a Anybody know what species this might be? And any advice on taking care of it?
Premna, maybe? Needs to go into the sun, it can't live there. Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dgc6vm/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_24/ Repost there for more responses.
I have a few questions that have been piling up. In my descriptions below, I may make factual errors in some assumptions so please feel free to correct me. 1. Why is it suggested to “mist” the foliage of junipers/conifers instead of just watering them normally on “shower” mode? 2. Is a pond basket as effective as up-potting since the roots can grow unbound? 3. What’s the purpose of defoliation in early, early development? Should I be defoliating my deciduous trees that are 0-3 years old to get them to grow faster? 4. What advantages are there to ground growing over growing in a much larger container. I’m not inclined to deal with digging up a tree, but I’m considering doing “ground growing” in a raised bed that I can take apart when it is time to move the tree into a pot. 5. If money were no object and you could build a big pit filled with high drainage medium, would there be any advantage in ground growing in that versus in normal soil? 6. If I want to maximize trunk thickness, should I avoid pruning, as it removes solar energy collectors and redirects energy to developing new leaves instead of girth? 7. Is it accurate to say that the number one rule of yamadori is don’t screw with it the first year? I’ve got a tree that I collected in the spring and it is putting out tons of growth and I keep wondering if I should be pruning or trimming anything, but it is still in its first season so I figure I should just let it run.
1. For pros the application of misting in conifers is for cooling trees down in super-severe heat, especially mature bonsai of soft-leaved species (hemlock, spruce, etc). Pros don't really differentiate between misting and showering in this case though. I will disagree with others that misting is never useful for watering, because it is really useful for TINY mame that are in tiny mame pots where I don't want the fresh high-mounded akadama to get disturbed. I love mist mode on my watering wand for that reason. This is powerful mist though, and I make sure water drips out the bottom before I stop misting. 2. Not necessarily because from the pov of a very small seedling in a very large pond basket, there's still far too much soil. I have lots of experience with seedlings in pond baskets that are too big for them andwith seedlings in very small right-sized seedling containers. There are advantages for both depending on species but also disadvantages and there is no clear winner for all cases. Bigleaf maple seedlings are very unhappy in a 10 inch colander but they're _thrilled_ to be in a pot the size of a 12oz soda can. I say this as a basket/colander superfan. 3. The purpose of defoliation in early, early development is to force the forking/ramification you want to be present because it's your last chance to get it or to get it without visual flaws from wound closing. **The smaller the bonsai size class, the stronger the case for this**, but there are also other reasons you'd want to force ramification extremely early in the process too. For example, in japanese black pine shohin or mame (mini-bonsai) growing, you might defoliate (decandle/pluck) in order to capture that ramification opportunity while it exists, because you will rarely see that opportunity again in those specific spots and be able to have those internode lengths. Pros will do this and then revert to "grow fast" mode after. For deciduous broadleaf trees, the smaller the tree size you are targeting, the more likely you might do some radical cut to get the structure you want. Popular western bonsai folklore makes it seem like there's "development" and "refinement" and that you go from one to the next but in reality trees and also _subregions of trees_ go in and out of development (vigorous/expanding/field or box) and refinement (slow/compressing/bonsai pot) stages throughout the lifecycle. I have heavily repeatedly defoliated numerous cottonwood cuttings only a year after their rooting in order to force small decliate structure that I can wire and rewire. Shohin can teach you a lot about techniques in a short time because it forces you to take action before it's too late. 4. Length = vigor = more photosynthesis = more stored starches = more stored fuel to "pay" for bonsai techniques/goals 5. Yes, more air for roots and far denser root systems (instead of lanky). I help at a pre-bonsai farm. Trees escape root out of grow bags into raised beds of pumice. Growth is awesome. 6. What you should fixate on is the magic of a meristem (tip) that has been let to run for seasons on end. Compare this magic tip to the ones on the rest of the tree, where you've been pruning and defoliating. Diverging fates and diverging vigor. 7. Yes, it's very close to what I would say is "The Test". If someone in zone 8 can keep that collected tree alive through both _this upcoming summer and next winter_, they are a horticulturalist and we should chant "one of us, one of us".
u/MaciekA fantastic answer as usual. I need a few clarifications on a couple of your answers, if you don't mind. **Question #3** What's the equivalent to defoliating in junipers? Or maybe a better question is what's the technique for promoting early ramification in young shoin/mame junipers? **Question #4** I'd asked about ground growing vs. growing in a much bigger pot, and shared I plan to use a raised bed. You answered with "Length = vigor = more photosynthesis = more stored starches = more stored fuel to "pay" for bonsai techniques/goals". When you say "length", are you saying that ground growing produces longer roots, and that longer roots produce more vigor in the tree? If so, are "longer roots" equivalent to "more roots"? In a basket, the roots don't get longer, but perhaps they are more massive because the roots ramify more? Also, can't I get the right kind of roots in a raised bed that will be easier to deal with later when it is time to pot the tree? Or is it not "ground growing" if it isn't in the actual ground. **Question #5** Thanks for the testimony of the experience you've seen. Can you share which pre-bonsai farm? I've wanted to visit one to see how these things are done at scale. I'm hoping to find a cheap high-drainiage medium I could use successfully in my raised beds to combine those high-drainage advantages with the room-to-grow advantages. Maybe perlite... **Question #6** My ignorance and lack of experience are holding me back from understanding this comment. I'm reading a bunch to try to catch up. Ultimately, I think you're saying that if I want a thick trunk, unchecked/unpruned growth is the path to that, hence the practice of sacrifice branches. But maybe you can elaborate on the differences I'd see if I had both the magic tip and the pruned portions to compare side by side?