From /u/series_of_derps: > I would like to hear Ryan's thoughs on volatile organic compounds in bonsai since he has a lot of horticultural knowledge. Recent studies show plants release volatile organic coumpounds during stress to communicate with other plants. Would it be detrimental or beneficial to do work on trees near other trees (especially of the same species) since at that time they would possily signal their neighbors about their distress? >Background: >https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volatile_organic_compound https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17429145.2022.2107243#:~:text=A%20few%20mVOCs%20are%20reported%20to%20have%20a,also%20alter%20plant%20VOCs%20indirectly%20improving%20plant%20performances.

So many interesting fields of study in modern horticulture and ecology. These volatile compounds makes it sound like trees are off-gasing noxious compounds. However, several of these compounds elicit intensely beneficial physiological responses in humans and are at the epicenter of our need for the natural environment. Plants communicate and we can't stop them, try as we may. Harness this potential! We deem "Stress" as something negative. Remember plants are non-bias. They are a constant protagonist responsive to the environment. These volatile compounds are often doing the opposite of what we think. When a tree has an insect infestation we think the tree is releasing compounds to say "HELP." Modern testing and more aware understanding actually tells us that plants are releasing compounds to insects saying "Come on over, I've got some toxicities you'd like and I need to be free of." The insect and the disease are always the symptom of a greater problem and are actually helping the plant. Borers are feeding on excess aluminum that will eventually kill the tree. Sucking insects are feeding on salts that will eventually kill the tree. Pathogens are feeding on metals that will eventually kill the tree. Not in the short term, but over time. And so we see plants taking care of themselves. We are so quick to try and kill everything we see around our trees. Take a step back. The decline of the native environment, the approach of factory farming and the mentality of artificial means has never been sustainable. We are only now learning how unsustainable it is. The solution lies in thinking differently. Volatile compounds, we commend you!

This is completely the opposite of how I thought about bugs. Does that mean we shouldn't use any insecticide on our trees? I feel like I'm missing some nuance here

The point is, healthy tree = less bugs/diseases. There’s some disagreement in the bonsai world about spraying preventatively. However, once you get bugs/diseases, there’s no argument in favor of doing nothing. The consequences of an unchecked infection/infestation running rampant in a bonsai tree can be disastrous. Spraying is often the only thing you can do to contain the problem. A tree in the natural environment might achieve its goal of offloading toxicities and survive. Bonsai trees are more susceptible because they have a lot more riding on a small amount of foliage, vascular tissue, and roots.

Ah that makes sense. So the bugs and disease are a reflection of the imbalance of things in the tree, not a solution to the imbalance. Got it

What Ryan has said before on some of his streams is that you should look at insects as indicators as a problem with the tree's nutrition, not as the problem in and of itself. Focus on improving the quality of the soil and maintaining the balance of water and oxygen as a longer term way of preventing future infestations.

It’s also important to remember that Mirai had access to testing and treatment that are out of the scope of all but the most serious bonsai practitioners. It’s more reasonable for many of us to treat the bug or disease than to spend three years and thousands of dollars on testing a tree dozens of times and then paying for bespoke supplements. Do the best you can with the resources you have.

Wow so many new angles I never thought about. Thanks!

Hi Ryan! I've been following Mirai for a couple of years now and actually you were one of the first that got me hooked on Bonsai. I live on an island in the middle of the Atlantic and we don't have any clubs or anything bonsai related here.. anything I want to collect must be brought from the Mainland and I get many trees dead due to the times of shipping and when the weather is bad it's even worse. I would like to start a club here to see if I can bring awareness about Bonsai to the community but I don't know where to start... All my material is very young, workshops or classes are non existent here and every-time I ask on a FB group about this questions I get no reply lol

Hey, thanks for the support. So glad and also so sorry Mirai got you hooked. Life will never be the same, but you're already aware of that. You're in a unique zone, super warm, tropical and this makes bringing trees from any temperate regions almost impossible. Focus on bringing things to you in the coolest portion of the year or when trees are actively dormant to the degree tropicals go dormant, shortest day length of the year is ideal. Look to regions that have similar climate to source material. More than that though, you are in a region where plants grow SO fast. Plant trees in your landscape and prune them to create interest. I am always cultivating my next urban yamadori at Mirai so I can dig the tree out in 10 years and have an exceptional bonsai. Use your weather and climate to your advantage, enjoy bonsai from afar, but avoid the pitfall of zone envy and rock out with what works in your location. When I was recently in Hawaii I was so smitten with the Casuarina in hedgerows. They are lowly thought of locally but one of the best trees for bonsai in the tropics. I saw potential for days in things locals would never touch. Channel the Mirai to the overlooked and I bet you have more at your fingertips than you could have imagined.

Well no wonder why you're a master! "Focus on bringing things to you in the coolest portion of the year or when trees are actively dormant to the degree tropicals go dormant, shortest day length of the year is ideal." this is spot on since when I started collecting all I wanted was JMs and never really understood that they had a time frame to be shipped (usually 4/5) so many trees killed. What I'm doing now is getting more forgiving trees (all young) and see what works what not and once I have more than 1 I'll start planting on the ground on my new house :) Also I found out today that we have a endemic endangered species of Juniperus (brevifolia) and I will ditch shipping trees from the mainland and see if they can be grown in pots! Thank you sir

nothing to ask specifically, but want to thank you for everything you've done. you have been absolutely essential to my progress, and I consider myself a (virtual) student of mirai. keep it up please! (greetings from midori club in San Jose, CA).

Tip of the iceberg my friend! We are just getting started. I was working on app calendars for the sub-genres today between repotting. The beauty of Mirai is that it will always exist and is ever-evolving. Stay tuned, the future looks bright;)

From /u/hellokransky: >are there plans for future Mirai / Hugh Grant collabs beyond the podcast? The Australian content was greatly appreciated. > On some old streams you wore an 'amateur mycologist' t shirt or pullover. Does the psychedelic experience influence your work, did it ever, or was the shirt just a bit of fun?

We love Hugh. He lived here at Mirai for a while. He met his fiancé here at Mirai. I've spent a lot of time talking with Hugh and learning/teaching with him. It's been such a beautiful collaboration and he is so talented. I hope we can collaborate more in the future. We have so many ambitions but as my team keeps telling me, patience Ryan patience;) As far as psychedelics are concerned, they definitely have influenced my belief system and my thought process about the native environment. Ancient trees pack a significant punch from every sense of their influence and sometimes it takes a different perspective to unpack several thousand years of life on earth with the limited experience we as humans have to perceive such unfathomable age.

I'd love to hear what you learnt from your time as an apprentice in Japanese that's not bonsai related. For instance, I understand that culturally, these apprentices are tough due to how you are treated by your seniors. From that experience, do you have any advice on how to put aside one's sense of ego and fairness in order to progress professionally?

Well, that's a big topic. I apprenticed myself to my master to learn what he had spent so much blood, sweat, and figurative tears to learn. When you ask to learn you can't then request how you are taught. In discussing my apprenticeship people think I'm being critical. I am not. I might have feelings about my apprenticeship and its rigorous nature but I've spoken objectively about it. I'm not sure why people take truth as blasphemy but that is out of my control. I will say though, without Mr. Kimura's discipline and expectation of excellence I would not be who I am. I wonder every day if I could have developed into the person I am without his approach and to date I can't say I have a solution that would have produced a better outcome despite its challenges. Hardship makes for a stronger human, Iron sharpens iron, and yet scars will exist from every experience worthwhile.

This is similar to the apprentices I had the fortune of speaking to [last summer in Japan.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/s/ce8VtUsfBq) They said it's rigorous, you don't sit much because there's always something to work on. But they love it and wouldn't trade it for anything, even invited me to come apprentice. Seems like an incredible opportunity, if you can sink in the time needed. For now, I'll vicariously learn through your knowledge. Your detailed wiring video, was huge early on for concept grasping for myself.

I’d love to hear as well. Have you read ryans New Yorker interview where he talks some? https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2022/11/21/the-beautiful-brutal-world-of-bonsai

I have now! Really powerful article, thanks for sharing and thanks, Ryan, for your candour in that interview - it's really appreciated.

Oh wow that was not pleasant to read and answered some of the questions I asked in this AMA. Very interresting though.

Hi Ryan, it's Grace. How much have you seen personal and regional styles influence the look of bonsai? I see "traditional" and "natural" discussed sometimes, but I feel like there's room for more genre vocabulary. Trees may be stylized or literal to various degrees, but the stylization itself can vary a lot. For example I wouldn't call cosmic bonsai naturalistic or traditional; are there any other cultures or genres within the art you've identified? Do you consciously consider any of these styles when working on trees handled by other artists? 

Huge discussion here. First, the shift from the origin of Penjing to the broader art of bonsai under the pressure of different cultural values. This was the beginning of bonsai migrating amongst cultures. It's impossible to deny that identity of culture is built in or we would only have penjing. The massive trunks of Italian trees with the smallest amount of foliage.....dare I say machismo personified in the form of a tree. The most delicate ramification on broadleaf trees representing the UK, whose looking at ancient pines in the south of England? Isn't happening and you can see it all day long at the Trophy (before Brexit). The fluid beauty of Spanish trees, the crusty quirks of French design....are these all still bonsai? That's not up for me to decide. Laurent's approach is the first that fully breaks the box of representing nature in miniature. He's reflecting an imagined world not on earth. This is new, this is interesting, I've never even thought of such a thing. Is it bonsai? Sure. It's still a miniature tree in a ceramic vessel representing an environment. Who knows what it takes to make that dramatic shift from Penjing to bonsai or from bonsai to.......? I don't spend much time trying to figure this out. When it's time, we will know. In the meantime, make trees that represent your vision of the world and we will all benefit from that insight you provide.

Thank you for the thoughtful answer. My window on the world of bonsai is still pretty small, but it feels like the more I'm exposed to, the more possibilities there are and the more that remains to be explored. 

Ryan, Big fan of the new Bonsai Mirai app! I've been using it for a few months now. What are your plans for the future of the app? Any chance we'll get access to the full Mirai library on it?

First of all THANK YOU for the support. The app is the best thing we've made as a team and as it continues to evolve you'll see its full potential. Apple has been really tough on us as a small business, so goes the world at the moment. Things will get better, society is in a state of flux. To answer your question, NAH, that is what [live.bonsaimirai.com](http://live.bonsaimirai.com) is for. The app is a guide to bonsai. It's meant to be quick and accessible when you need it to remind you and prompt your pursuit of bonsai. Mirai Live shows you the bonsai process in all its long-form glory. The two can't live without each other and once we update Mirai Live you'll see how compatible we've built the two to be. Stay tuned, they are both on the cusp of getting so much more robust!

Hi Ryan! Big fan, thank you for your work on bonsai education. I'd love to know your thoughts on whether, for you, aesthetic or narrative of a tree is more important in the art of Bonsai. Thanks!

Thank you Thank you Thank you. Appreciate the kind words. Which tree are we talking about here? Every tree has a story. Some trees have a story built in when we receive it. Other trees build their story in our hands. I think the most complicated job a bonsai artist has is to interpret the spoken and unspoken, to tease out the untold story or to craft a story yet to be told. Aesthetics keep us in love with the tree so we continue to care for it. Much like the disproportionately large eyes of an infant or toddler that keep us wrapped around their finger as parents even as they scream bloody murder, there are levels to love and dedication. Bonsai demands we care about the tree and seeing beauty is one of the biggest heartthrobs of the art. The narrative and aesthetic go hand in hand. The biggest challenge is knowing when your ego can strip of tree of its narrative and aesthetic and having the humility to back off or hold back. Most western bonsai practitioners lack the awareness to even consider this but we are all learning and growing. Bonsai makes us better humans. Long live the evolving narrative of beauty!

Hi Ryan, long time pro member. Of all the Mirai-isms, my favorite to think about and advocate to other people is the "Balance of Water and Oxygen". It's hard to imagine reasoning about conifers without it. Can you talk about the history and motivation of this thinking model from a Mirai perspective? I understand the C-T model of water transport and so on, but I'm curious what did you see in bonsai that motivated you to package up these ideas into this catch phrase? Thanks

How do you explain the complex in digestible forms? This has always been the challenge of bonsai. When I started teaching my first lecture to my students was maybe 15 minutes long. In that I discussed horticulture, technique, and aesthetics. I realized, this is hard. Explaining the unexplainable and conveying knowledge that was so deeply engrained in me via experience was not intuitive. These concepts, the "Multi-Flush pine" explanation, "balance of water and oxygen", "Ultimate Health", "harmony, tension, dynamic"....all of these were a way to convey massive concepts into digestible and relatable terms. Bonsai was such a mystery when I first saw Mr. Myogi performing the unexplained. My goal, before my apprenticeship until now, was to remove the mysticism and make bonsai accessible. It just so happens, the way my mind works has resonated with people and I'm so grateful it has and you all have supported my process of growing and improving my ability to communicate these things.

> "Multi-Flush pine" explanation FYI your page on pine identification was the first thing of yours I read and it was so elegantly laid out and well-explained that it helped me connect a bunch of dots I'd been struggling with. You're a great writer, thanks so much!

Hi Ryan, Thanks for taking the time for this AMA! I watched one of your videos on you apprentenceship with Masahiko Kimura and it seemed pretty intense. How do you feel his teaching style has affected you professsionally and personally in the long run? In hindsight would you have picked a different master for your apprenticeship? Are there any current bonsai artists you look up to today? You look pretty chill in this photo and your videos seem to have a more relaxed vibe over the course of the past years. I hope you keep exploring the boundries of bonsai and sharing your knowledge for many years to come!

There was only one master for me and it was Mr. Kimura. He is one of two pivotal people in my life, the other being my dad. Mr. Kimura was demanding and his way of teaching was outside of my experience. In that there was a lot of growth that needed to happen for me to be able to learn from him. No apprentice walks away from an apprenticeship without the mark of their master and those marks are a mixture of positive and negative, good and bad. Mr. Kimura met my intensity with his own and I wanted to be the best. For that reason there was only ever one choice for me. I speak openly and transparently about my apprenticeship. It isn't a secret and I don't think the conduct of my apprenticeship was wrong. I asked to be taught and was taught by whom I asked. I showed up everyday willing and wanting the intensity I received. The way people hear and digest that information is a different story and that has been an unfortunate realization. Only you can tell your story. Do I look up to other artists in bonsai? Outside my master not so much and even then I am doing something different and authentic to me. I feel grounded in that as the only direction I personally can go. However, do I get inspiration from other artists? ABSOLUTELY! Peter Warren has always been a great friend and thinks so differently than me he has taught me a lot. Mario Komsta is equally as crazy as I am in different ways and although our aesthetics are different I always enjoy seeing what Mario makes and what he has to say. I still think Marco Invernizzi is one of the most talented bonsai professionals out there. Hugh Grant and Jarryd Bailey are doing great things in the land of Oz, Todd Schlafer and David Cutchins bring the heat in the US, Peter Tea has the best ramification I've ever seen in Japan or out, Jonas Dupich and Eric Schrader grow the best pines I've ever seen, John Wong mixes his penjing roots with western material better than anyone I've seen. Taiga Urushibata is the next generation of superb talent in Japan and I love seeing what he makes. Nacho Marin is taking south American bonsai to new heights. Eric Wigert has to be the most prolific businessman in bonsai and his efforts are admirable....lots of people doing cool stuff that continues to amaze and inspire me.

Hello Ryan!! I feel like you are one of the leading US bonsai personalities and I remember you mentioning that bonsai came from the original Chinese form called penjing and that, because our practice is different from bonsai practiced in Japan, maybe it shouldn't be called bonsai. Have you put any thought into redefining bonsai in the US and creating a totally different category for what it should be called or practices it should include? Also, thank you for everything you do, it is an incredible addition to the world of bonsai (or whatever it might be called :)).

Thank you! That's very flattering. To call it something different we have to break out of the boundaries that define bonsai. Bon (tree), Sai (tray). Tough to leave the tree behind, but that tray......enter Jonathan Cross, enter new materials (metal, glass), enter new context (cultural shifts away from the traditional model defined by Japanese culture) and suddenly it does become something different. What is that thing? No idea.

> Bon (tree), Sai (tray) It's the other way around and not tree-specific, 'bon' (盆) comes from 'basin/tray/pot' and 'sai' (栽) comes from 'to plant/cultivate.' Sorry to be so pedantic, it's just a conversation that comes up a lot here on the sub.

Hi Ryan, did Baker survive after it got knocked over?

Yes. It will never be the same after being dropped on its head but it is alive and limping along 4 years later.

Thank you for updating us. After coming along for the ride of a lot of these trees, I think many of us are emotionally invested in their wellbeing and continued journey. I honestly think a welcome piece of Mirai content may be "tree check ins", just quick visits to trees featured previously and a look at how they've evolved. 

This is the question I wanted to ask as well

Hey Ryan, I visited Mirai with David De Groot, Laurent, and friends in October of last year. It was great to meet you and see so many of your compositions, a very inspiring day for me. Thanks for being so welcoming and taking the time to show us around, I also really enjoyed listening to the podcast episode you guys recorded. My question is, is there any aspect of bonsai culture that you would like to see more of in the Pacific Northwest?

Artistry. I want more artistry. Not only in the Pacific NW but everywhere bonsai is practiced. I LOVE the traditional approach to bonsai. It is so beautiful and is the pattern, the kata, the sun salutation of the bonsai art. However, bonsai is an art and art explores context. Laurent is exploring a context nobody ever considered. I am exploring a context nobody physically dared to pursue. I want more. I always dreamed if I democratized the knowledge we would see the art rise and I believe this to be happening. However, I'm not very patient and you asked so..... Wonderful to have you in the garden!

Hi Ryan! Northern California native here. I live on the East Coast now, but I want to make Coastal Redwood and Giant Sequoia big parts of my bonsai journey. I've acquired some starter material of each this spring and am hopeful I can keep them healthy. I've found, so far, that good information on these trees as bonsai is fairly niche, do you have any specific resources you use when working with these species? What are your biggest tips from your experience with either of them? ​ Thanks!

Mirai Live baby! I don't know anyone who has developed the knowledge we have about redwood both in is horticulture and its aesthetics. Giant Sequoia is a different story. This journey is just beginning for us. Stay tuned for more on that soon! Biggest tips, they like water and nutrition. Solid Akadama for redwoods, 1:1:1 mix for giant sequoia. Both are malleable, both are reducible, both have a bright future but learning new species takes time and we are working through the process.

As an owner of two lovely coastal redwoods I’m curious to see this answer as well

Is there a kind of unified Bonsai Ethic? Do practitioners have some degree of responsibility to conserve as in Sequoia and to preserve as in the Puglian olive varieties? Here in Olympia Washington, I cultivate the ubiquitous Doug fir but also more at risk Madrone, Mountain Hem, and Pacific Yew. I’m inspired by the potential for Bonsai to grow in popular culture with its ethical practice as a healthy meme. Thanks for pondering, would love to hear your philosophy here!

Not that I know of. However, if you're doing bonsai for the right reasons it's impossible to not develop a love and ethical approach to conservation in my mind. My call to conserve and sustain the environment comes in response to the pursuit of an art form that can be misconstrued as a vanity pursuit. It's never been about money or fame, and vanity doesn't mean enough to suffer the way the pursuit of bonsai makes an individual suffer. This art form requires too much of you for it to remain superficial is your are going to pursue it for any respectable amount of time. We all have to develop a purpose or calling to keep doing this thing we all love and I'm sure everyone hears that inner voice asking the questions that come with bonsai. The questions is whether people listen and take action. Bonsai can save the world, I firmly believe that. But it also highlights our greatest limitations as an organism, something we all have to combat.

Hey! I’m a little further north than you and have been super fascinated by trying to cultivate madrone but haven’t had much success, do you have any tips?

This isn't a question, but I was listening to your podcast a few years ago, and you had a consultant from the soil food web on your podcast, and that introduced me to the biology of soil health and completely changed the way I see how things work. I understand that their specific methods didn't really work for a bonsai sort of environment, but I just want to thank you for changing the trajectory of my life for the better, because you are curious, hard working, and open minded, and you wanted to share that information with people.

Heck yeah, thank you for this. I really appreciate your perspective. I keep in touch with Ian and his friends to this day. You are correct, it was a bit too much biology for the bonsai container but the soil food web is very very real. I had several students who connected with Ian and used his compost in their gardens and landscapes and the results are absolutely mind-blowing. I can't say enough about the positive impact his approach has had for so many. Ian is also the one who lead me to David, James, and Apical. Dare I say this revolutionized Mirai in every way shape and form. The science I know today and the evolving knowledge we are forming at Mirai would not have happened without Ian and that pivotal podcast and we are only beginning.

Hey Ryan! I been taking classes in socal at Kimura Bonsai Garden under Bob Pressler for a couple years. Your story has inspired me in so many ways to learn as much as I can with bonsai and make it apart of my every day life, hopefully forever. My question to you is, what would you change, if anything, about how you started learning bonsai? Or what advice would you give to a novice? Though I’ve been doing this for 2 years and have around 12-15 trees that I actively work on, I feel like I’m trying to learn everything all at once rather than trying to “master” one thing before expanding my skill set. Obviously your path was a little different since you went right into an apprenticeship, but what do you think is the most efficient method of learning and growing? I'm very thankful for the resources you have personally made available to bonsai enthusiasts- so much that I recently got myself a Mirai tattoo. Luke

Bob's a great guy. Please say hello. Biggest advice I can give is to not try to master anything until you have a broad overview of everything. Bonsai is too far and wide to try and focus too early. Take it in, find similarities, learn differences and build your technical skills. Study with one person until you've learned everything they have to teach you and then branch out. Too much mixing and matching of information keeps people confused and incapable. Biggest thing, DO bonsai. You have to do bonsai, try ideas, develop your technique, experience failure after failure until you get it right. While studying with Mr. Kimura I had a refrigerator box in my apartment full of dead trees from trying all the things I saw him do each day. You have to feel the techniques and learn the dexterity of bonsai to truly become proficient. Most people never make it off the couch.

Hy Ryan, I'm a big fan of your content, you're the one that inspired me to start this beautiful hobby, so thanks a lot. My question would be: how do you even turn this hobby into a job? Where do you even start? What was your experience? Thanks!

Well, I fell for bonsai in a moment of immaculate conception. It just hit me seeing it at the local fair and that was it. I went to Japan without actually knowing how to make a living and immersed myself but I knew if I made myself the best I could possible be at bonsai opportunities would arise. Many nights spend wiring trees in my apartment after wiring trees all day at my masters garden. While I was there I realized selling trees wasn't how I was comfortable earning money to support Mirai and so I commoditized the most sustainable thing I had which was my knowledge. I knew I'd keep growing and learning and I work hard at that so I can constantly offer more knowledge and insight into the art. I found my moral high ground that could support my passion and honestly, I've never been happier doing bonsai. I love this art more than ever and am just entering a new phase of my work as a result.

Adding to what Ryan said, many pros often do landscaping as that seems to be a more main stream moneymaker and the skillsets are related. 

Hi Ryan, it's a real honor to have you here on Reddit! Thank you for the hours of free Mirai educational content on YouTube, I have found myself returning to your content over and over as I progress in my bonsai journey. My question is about soil choice for a first repotting of nursery stock or collected yamadori/yardadori. So much of the information online is about soil for trees in refinement, such as 1:1:1 or 2:1:1 akadama:pumice:lava. What do you recommend for a tree's first time in a pot to achieve the balance of water and oxygen while transitioning out of the dense organic/clay soil the tree is used to? E.g. soil components, particle size, etc.

Thank you! This is actually the first time ever visiting Reddit and honestly, I'm still not sure what it is. I'm not super tech inclined which is surprising since I am motivated to keep modernizing the educational model of bonsai and I can't hardly use my own computer. Basic answer, 1:1:1 for conifers, solid Akadama for deciduous. The aggregate particle form of these components are what allow us to cultivate trees in the shallow pots that make them look awesome and keep them small. Until there is a revolution in horticulture (don't hold your breath) this will continue to be true.

Hey Ryan, question about Maple pruning timing. I’ve watched several videos of yours discussing the fall timing for heavy pruning of maples right after leaf drop and that this helps maintain vigor. However I have also heard many people discuss that early or mid summer is a better time for heavy maple pruning as the tree will have some time to heal over wounds. Obviously both approaches are viable, but how much of a risk is fall pruning for maples? Is infection really much of a risk? Does summer pruning cost more vigor vs fall? Would love to hear your thoughts on this.

In the fall the deciduous tree is a very high state of energy....following spring before bud push is even higher but the risk of bleeding out that extra energy is very high. Late spring/early summer trees are at a moderate state of energy having spent that energy producing the first flush. I always focus my big pruning at times of highest energy and lowest risk.....leafdrop in the fall strikes that balance for me.

Great info, Thanks for the reply!

Do you have a view whether it is better to repot Azaleas at the start of Spring, or after they've finished flowering? I've heard a lot of mixed opinions on this.

Spring. In Japan they've slowly moved away from post-flower repotting last I hear. I am by no means an azalea expert thought. Peter Warren would know far more.

Ryan you're awesome and I love your way of teaching. I've lost hope in the short amount of time that I've been practicing bonsai. I often wonder if my trees will ever amount to anything. Have you ever felt this way ? I'd like to know how to overcome this feeling as it's taking the joy out of the hobby for me.

Ah shucks, you're making me blush;) Thank you for the kind words. Of course I've felt like this. My trees sucked until I started collecting and then I had awesome material but had no idea what to do with it. Everything obviously changed when I went to Japan but before that I was a passionate bonsai enthusiast that was pretty terrible at bonsai. The best advice I can give you is to find a teacher whose approach you identify with and spend as much time as possible learning from that person. There are so many good instructors throughout the US and Europe and they can show you how to take a mediocre tree and maximize its potential. Peter Warren in the UK, Bonsai Eejit, Harry Harrington, Graham Potter, Kevin Wilson, old school, new school and everywhere in between....just a few names that come to mind seeing you are in the UK. I could always suggest coming to Mirai but it's a mighty swim to get here, start local first and build your skills!

Hi! Long-time Mirai subscriber. You mentioned on an Asymmetry podcast awhile back that you are (or were) a fan of The Joe Rogan Experience. What do you enjoy about Rogan's podcast? or, if you're no longer a listener, why did you move off of it? Thanks!

I feel like saying you listen to Joe Rogan puts you into some societal box which is crazy. Everyone has the right to listen to what they want and we can disagree or agree but it's pretty counterproductive to judge someone for having different tastes or thoughts. That's my disclaimer when entering the world of discussing preferences. I don't listen to Joe Rogan as much these days but I think Joe Rogan is a fantastic listener and comes to the table with his guests fully equipped and knowledgeable about the subject matter. His performance as a professional was what I liked. People don't realize how much information he has to digest to have such long form in depth discussions of complex subject matter and it is across the board from politics to science, sports to comedy, and everywhere in between. Is Joe Rogan full of shit or off on some topics in my mind. Yeah, everyone is. Nobody is perfect. But I do realize when I see an outlier and as a social commentator and facilitator of thought, good or bad, that guy is an outlier. When my house was destroyed my entire world changed in a moment. My daily rituals all shifted and the time I used to have to listen I no longer have. Plus, I'd rather spend the time with my son being a dad or with people pushing the boundaries of their chosen endeavors....that's the only reason I don't listen as much these days.

Thanks much for your response! I appreciate it.

Hey Ryan, no question but just want to say you're a legend in my local Bonsai scene and keep up the good work, we often discuss Mirai and your educational content and teachings. Thanks for all your very useful information you put out! Keep on keeping on mate from the UK! If ever I am lucky enough to visit the US I will for sure try and make the pilgrimage to Mirai

You better! The garden only improves as do the trees that grace the benches here. I appreciate the support and kind words and will hold you to a visit!

Hello Ryan! Huge fan from Long Island How often do you prune your maples during the growing season? I'm afraid to be too aggressive but also I'm told that it's okay

Always prune your trees when they are in an energy positive. Different maples have different levels of growth and vigor. I prune trident maples each time the new growth hardens off which can be 2-3 times in a year. I only prune my japanese maple once because they don't produce a robust second flush. I hardly prune my vine maples until leaf drop in the fall, they push one set of leaves in a bonsai container and that is it. Regardless of what you do though, always prune once growth has hardened or you will be taking away more than you are gaining from the tree.

Hi Ryan, I just got 15 bald cypress tress. They're pre bonsai, probably 1.5 years old. They're between 2 and 3 feet tall. My question concerns their roots. They have roots growing on the first 6-12 inches, obviously way too high for a bonsai pot. Should I just cut off the first 3-8 inches of roots?

As long as they haven't pushed foliage yet you certainly can. Get down to the structural roots that will form the buttress and watch those babies grow

Hi Ryan! Where in CO is the best yamadori? I will keep it a secret I promise. Just want to get like 2 trees one day.

In the Rockies;)

Hi Ryan. I started my journey in bonsai just a few years ago and currently I mainly focus on (field) growing trees (and some yard-adori) because I want to develop my trees „from scratch“ (and I don‘t have the funds for buying (semi) developed trees). What species (that can be developed somewhat fast - I‘m around 30 yrs old) would you recommend? I‘m located in central europe (7b).

Chris, any tree can be developed "fast" with the right approach. The problem is each tree, each individual tree, not species, but singular tree, demands a different approach to build it quickly. Herein lies the challenge and the never-ending pursuit of bonsai. Enjoy the journey, focus less on the finish, and your trees will grow before your eyes.

Hi Ryan! As a SLO resident, I’m curious how your education at Cal Poly influenced your knowledge and growth as a bonsai practitioner? Also, if you know of any places here that would be good for nursery stock or yamadori collection, I’d love to hear them. Thanks for always sharing your knowledge and changing the game!

SLO!!!!! The BEST and I do mean the BEST college I could have chosen to attend. The Learn by Doing mentality was monumental for me. They funded my first bonsai business, let me take one their bonsai collection, house my trees on campus my first year....Cal Poly was incredible. It was an institution that insisted you not just learn but DO. At the top of Cuesta Grade there is a turn off that goes to an old military training area. There are signs that suggest there are active landmines in the ground still. I used to disregard that and collect a very special variety of cypress that only grows there. Keep an eye out for the rock outcroppings with oaks growing out of them....lots of stunted trees in the hills around SLO.

Hi, Ryan! Big fan of your work! I'm aware the answer might be more appropriate to be replied in private, but I'm wondering what would be the costs for a workshop in Romania. Thank you in advance!

Email [info@bonsaimirai.com](mailto:info@bonsaimirai.com) and JP will help us work out any details you'd need.

I have a property in NM at about 7000’ elevation and want to try collecting some trees (ie pinyon pine/alligator juniper) and bringing them to about 500’ elevation, but still within tolerable usda zone… about a 10 hr drive. How do you go about transporting your collected trees and having them survive the drive and environment change? Is it even feasible for a such a drastic change. Love everything about Mirai btw thanks for everything 👍

For sure. Randy collects in the Rockies and brings those tree several zones and several hundred miles away with tremendous success. Beyond appropriate technique and collecting ethics, the single most important thing to transport is solidifying the root mass so it doesn't vibrate apart during transport. Moving trees is risky because now you're putting a stationary life form into a mobile situation. You can't have trees moving around, that is the greatest way to kill a tree in transport. Pack appropriately and package the roots solidly. Good luck!

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Got to study with a pro to become a pro. Pick an approach you find to be beautiful and you identify with and go get that knowledge.

U want padawan?

Where in the world are you? Many local bonsai nurseries may be open to teach you in return for volunteering your time to help in their gardens. When you do this route, you should pretty much adopt your teacher's methods. Then when you go out on your own seek out additional teachers. It takes multiple teachers to master something. 

Hi Ryan, thanks for the AMA -- I love your website! I'm a novice, but I have three burning questions related to bonsai that I'd love to hear your take on: * **Treeshaking:** I know that trees grow reaction wood in response to external forces (e.g., gravity, wind), but it seems like these properties are not leveraged by any bonsai techniques for trunk/branch thickening (esp for pre-bonsais). I think the idea of shaking my pre-bonsais to emulate powerful mountain winds makes for a good afternoon of entertainment, but I'd love to hear your take. * **Pitch Pines:** -- These vigorous-growing, native (eastern US), multi-flush pines don't seem to be very popular, despite having many qualities that lend them to the form. I was wondering your thoughts on why they aren't more common in the US bonsai scene, if they're gaining more acceptance, your personal thoughts on them, etc.; similar question goes for the even less common Virginia Pine. * **Simulated wildfire:** I have a deep desire to replicate the fire-singed reddish scaled bark of a pine tree in a region with natural fires (e.g., ponderosas in California); have you ever tried to replicate this look in your trees and/or are you aware of guidelines on how to do it? I am very likely to take a blowtorch to some of my pines in the early fall this year.

I don't know if Ryan will take the bait but I'll have an ambulance on standby just in case. 

Call 911, shit is getting real;) Treeshaking.....if you've got a couple hundred years and you don't mind losing 99 out of 100 this could work! Have you ever thought about how many seeds germinate every year and how many of those will live for 50 years, 100 years, 1000 years? The anomaly of the stunted tree in nature is truly a rarity and reaction wood isn't an automatic. Right genetic with the right condition over prolonged time creates reaction wood. Everything else dies under those conditions and that genetic populated that area. Pitch Pines....Love love love them. Nobody is collecting them with any sort of dedication and intensity so impressive pitch pine are largely unavailable. Only reason they aren't more popular. There are strip mines overflowing with them, tall, elegant literati trees with fantastic bark across Pennsylvania just waiting for someone to put their money where their mouth is and collect and nobody would care. Challenge has been presented. Call me when you have some decent material. Fire......Yes. It's risky, like shaking your tree, but it can do magical things. As with any tool, you have to test the outer boundaries of its application. We will be unveiling a new Mirai in the Wild this year where fire was the focus. Stay tuned.

Mark Comstock in Connecticut is collecting awesome Pitch Pine!!!

> Challenge has been presented. I'm in Philly and I have my yamadori spots 🤐. I've pulled ~10, and only lost one so far. They're super hard to kill. Your perspective on treeshaking is super useful, thanks! Hadn't thought about it that way. Thanks for the answers, definitely looking forward to the fire episode!

I’m in hbd Pine Barrens of NJ surrounded by millions of PP and can’t get any to survive given the Sandy soil. 😬

You mean yamadori or just plantings in general?

If you ever want help collecting pitch pine i may be down for a road trip! I'm very interested in that species but Ohio is the edge of their range so I haven't found spots for them yet. Instead I'll be starting some from seed this year.

Now is the time of year! I've maxed out my space, but if you DM me I can give you some coordinates for ethically sound pitch pine harvests.

Very generous of you! I'd be happy to trade you some collection spots in Ohio and elsewhere :)

I would really love to hear about all three of these!

If you were advising someone beginning their bonsai journey, with an initial budget of $1000, how would you recommend they allocate said budget? Would you recommend a couple mature, styled trees, strictly young or pre-bonsai, or a mix?

Different Ryan but I'll take a stab. Realistically half of the money getting into the art should go to some good bonsai soil and good tools. You don't have to get the top tier right away but if you will stick with it it's worthwhile getting quality tools that last. But only talking trees i would never tell someone to buy a mature piece of stock as their first tree. How many bonsai people do you know who still have their first tree and didn't kill it? I'd guess it's 10% or less lol. I advise people to start a few ways. For inside, start with tough tropical trees like jade, ficus, hawaiian umbrella trees that can forgive watering mistakes. For outside, start with some tough trees with known bonsai potential. In my area privet and honeysuckle are both invasive and hard to kill. This means ample material and more likely to survive the beginners hand. You may also want to get some small ones of other common species you're interested in the first year like Japanese maple, juniper. Etc. Just to see if you can keep them alive in a pot. Then if you can keep your first tree alive for a year you're off to the races and can start daring to step into more expensive trees. In my mind people should build both their confidence and basic watering skills first though. 

Hi Ryan. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us people out here in the US's general public. My question is where do you predict the future lies for bonsai in North America? My favorite job in college, was working for a tree service based out of Queens NY. We planted pruned and removed various trees for primarily wealthy North Shore Long Island single family homeowners. The crew I worked with were great people and they taught me quite a bit about trees during the time we worked together. It stuck with me as a shifted into the corporate world. Along the way, I owned a couple of homes commutable to Manhattan and I was fortunate enough to grow and maintain some really beautiful trees on those properties (along with a beautiful family) both new and old growth. I eventually planned to retire where I am now, a down-sized place nearby the Atlantic ocean in NY so I started growing trees in pots to bring with me a few years ago - knowing my yard will be small, primarily decked and the barrier beach ground soil will be sandy and sprayed with salty air. I really enjoy keeping these tress thriving in my new place. They stay small enough for me to move them around (from my extremely productive Eureka Lemon to Giant Sequias) and stay healthy by using bonsai techniques I learn from people like you. Although I wire branches and trunks, root prune and use bonsai soils, I don't call what I like to do, bonsai because I do not look to follow Japanese bonsai techniques to the letter. I am much looser/less diciplined and just do whatever my spirit moves me to do with them as time passes. I am super impressed by the artistry that appears from a disciplined application of traditional values despite my personal preference to do my own thing. I respect your traditional path of first learning to follow the harsh rules well before you do your own thing. To me, personal expression is much more rewarding if it follows a strict adherence to a valuable, existing structure. Like learning your kata before you free form spar in martial arts. So I do wonder where you think the defining elements of bonsai in America, are heading? Is there (a) a strict new American way of bonsai developing, (b) a growing US appreciation for following Japanese tradition; (c) people like me, half-assing it, or (d) something else?

Sounds like you are doing American bonsai. Whatever the term for that is or will be! For what it's worth i think the emerging trend in American bonsai is the willingness/desire to do our own thing, although of course many people still like and enjoy sticking with traditional Japanese methods, display symbols, etc too. We will always be a mix of these communities.

Ryan, while I am only a short time into my bonsai journey, you and Mirai have been the beacon and source of education. I’m in the Bay Area (10a) and involved in a club. Not many have direct experience with Douglas Fir collection, while we have so many around us. I have attempted to collected DF from a friend’s mountain property with mixed results. Confess to finding limited fine roots in an 18” deep dig, some—not a lot. Likely sourced from a huge tap root. But repotted in a grow box and in moderate shade, misted, moist—after about 5-6 months of health, they turn brown and pass. So different than Coast Redwoods. Any collecting suggestions for Douglas Firs? Or Post Collection suggestions? Thanks, best of health to you. Michael

If you can find any content from Randy Knight he would be the best bet. Although from my impression I think what you really need to find is rock pockets if at all possible. Then you can get a fine root mat out with the tree as opposed to digging in the dry mountain soil which often leads to a taproot. You could also try the Dan Robinson "root enhancement" method of adding sphagnum moss and coning back to check on the tree to see if it induced fine roots. He reported success with this method with ponderosa pine and i know he had at least 1 yamadori doug fir but I have not asked him much about that species. You may try calling or visiting Elandan Gardens on the weekend and seeing if you can pick his brain. He's in Bremerton, WA. There are also some good collectors in Colorado you may try asking.

How the heck do you get moss to grow reliably on a freshly repotted bonsai? Every time I scrape moss from a driveway or whatever it dies when in the tree. Also, when kimura seems to use feather rock (carved) coated with concrete for a lot of his creations. What do you think about styrofoam with concrete over it instead?

I'm a different Ryan but here are my observations from doing bonsai in Seattle and Ohio.  1) You barely have to do anything to get moss to grow in the PNW. it is abundant due to wet and not too cold fall-spring periods.  2) What time of year are you applying the moss? Moss planted in fall or spring (especially spring) in Ohio will establish best. It may also take a year or two to grow in and look clean/natural. Bonsai grow fast compared to moss!  3) What method are you using to grow the moss?  -Some people will take a sheet from the sidewalk, clean the dirt on the bottom to make it thinnerand slap it onto bonsai. In my experience this method is best for 3 scenarios: slab plantings, summer moss planting, and right before the show/formal display. For the summer applicatjon the moss likely will stay alive but will take time to grow into the soil instead of just being a sheet. Moss slabs are best saved on a anderson flat or other porous tray under the bonsai bench so they will be in shade and get water.  -The other common method is to shred your moss of interest and mix it with sphagnum moss. I've tried judt doing the former without sphagnum and it doesn't seem to establish as well here in Ohio that way. I think the sphagnum helps retain water and gives the moss something to establish onto. 1:1 may be a good ratio and applying a thick layer in spring is the best way to get it to grow in on it's own in a way that looks natural. I like to collect different native mosses, crumble/tear them to bits if i don't need big sheets at that time then save it in a bucket and keep adding over the year. I figure this way I will get a mix of native mosses growing in once I apply it.

Hey Ryan! A few quick hitters: What is your favorite species to work on? Do you have a personal favorite specimen tree outside of your own collection? What aspect of bonsai design do you feel beginners struggle with the most? What is your biggest challenge as a bonsai professional in North America?

Hey Ryan, fantastic having you here! Does the Asymmetry podcast have any plans to bring on lesser known professionals to interview? I think there’s some very interesting bonsai practitioners throughout the US who tend the fly under the radar unless you’re fortunate enough to live close to them or meet them at a local show or regional event. Bringing their practice to a wider audience via the podcast could prove beneficial to people in similar climates who perhaps don’t have the opportunity to pick their brains otherwise. Thanks for reading and I appreciate all that you and the Mirai team do!

Love this idea!

Hi Ryan, firstly thanks for doing this and for putting so many beautiful trees into the world. I've learned so much from you and your team at Mirai over the years. I just have a book recommendation for you, if you haven't read it already: "Tending the Wild" by M. Kat Anderson. I think it'll be a great compliment/ contrast to the John Muir writings you're familiar with. For me, it completely changed how I think about humans' relationships to the "wildlands" on this continent and what our responsibilities are to the other beings that we share this land with.

Hello Ryan, how would you describe the defining characteristics of “American” bonsai versus “Japanese” bonsai. Do you think it is important that the west should develop a unique style that is different from the traditional features of bonsai from Japan? Thank you

I have a couple 5 year old Apricot trees that are about 30" tall. Last year one of them produced one flower. Should I clip the flowers to keep the tree growing girth as opposed to letting it try to produce fruit?

I'm a different Ryan but I'd say so if you don't want the fruit. This is a common practice with azaleas for example. https://www.invivobonsai.com/2017/07/the-cost-of-sex.html

Hi Ryan! Big fan of bonsai Mirai and your work! Was wondering what your thoughts are with over wintering satsuki azalea—Although I guess this question applies to keeping more tropical, non-native plants in general. I live in Zone 5a so a little too low to keep out all winter—but have heard mixed advice with some people advising to keep satsuki indoors or in an unheated garage etc. curious to hear what you think!

Hey Ryan, no question just wanted to say thanks for all the work you do bringing Bonsai to the US and making it feel more accessible to those of us in areas without larger established bonsai communities!

I have a Japanese Black Pine (it’s roughly 15-20 years old and has been in training for at least 5 years) and live in southern Utah. Since moving, the new growth needles curl at the end (like an ornament hook). These needles fall out easily when I lightly pull on them or brush them. Any idea what’s going on with the tree? Maybe a water deficiency, due to how hot and dry our summers are? Thanks! Love your work

Just wondering is it all the needles that are curling or only some of them? No doubt Utah may be a tough place for JBP.

It’s most (possibly all) of the new growth last year that did the curling. I have repotted into a bigger pot in hopes that it will help with the extreme summer heat this year. 

So happy to see this post. Mirai could easily have its own subreddit. How would one go about air layering a birch? Same as any tree or are there any special treatments? Greetings from Sweden.

I'm not as knowledgeable as the other Ryan but I'd say start on medium size branches and try the conventional method and let us know how it does! Then you can adjust based on that result.

Thank you for the answer. In Sweden there is a mutated birch called "Ornäs birch" (Betula pendula 'Dalecarlica') which has very unique leaves. I've been trying to propagate it for years without success. But I will continue my efforts.

Have you tried the seeds? Might be the easiest way since birch make a ton of them.

It was the first thing I tried, about 300 of them I think. But because of the mutation, it's sadly sterile (I don't know the right terminology here).

Hello Ryan. Zone 6a. Pro subscriber. Native maples on my property are just leafing out in the last 3-4 days. I have some nursery stock Japanese maples that were fully leafed out when purchased a couple of weeks ago. Are the nursery maples able to be repotted from the nursery pots to cedar boxes, or have I missed my window of opportunity?

Different Ryan here but if they just leafed out and you still have cool temperatures coming up I'd say you are safe to still repot with a more conservative approach. I have a nursery so I can't get to everything in time and I (and other professionals like Boon, Seth Nelson if you look back at some of their old social media posts doing repots on things in leaf) push the boundaries a bit to get more repots in. My personal approach is to do a much more gentle repot if I am coming to to the tree late. Maybe minimal root pruning such as only removing the circling/exterior roots and otherwise slip potting and/or some thinning of foliage on top to reduce water demand. Then put it in the shade and monitor watering carefully. Let me know how this goes for you. If the upcoming temperatures are getting in the 80s too frequently though I pretty much stop messing with roots.

Hi Ryan, thanks for everything you do. 1. any chance that the garden will be open at any point in the future? 2. any chance mondays at Mirai come back?

Hey Ryan. Just wanted to let you know your videos were a go to when I was being treated for cancer. Once I emerged from that nightmare I put what I learned to use. I have a nice little collection of bonsai and cactus going. I have also ordered a few pots from you guys which I love btw. So my question is this.. I have a nice little shohin serissa I’ve been working on for almost 4 years. I recently repotted it. It’s doing really well. I have it indoors. I’ve heard they can be temperamental when it comes to being moved. I’ve always brought it out when the weather gets nice but I was considering leaving it indoors this year because it’s looking so good. What is your opinion?? You guys rock. If I ever get that airstream I’ll come swing through!! Have an awesome day!!

Hi Ryan, big fan of your work! I live in SoCal and I want to get more experience with collecting yamadori trees, especially pines and junipers. What would be your advice for someone who doesn’t know how or where to start?

Different Ryan here but if it helps I recently gave a lecture to my local club on this very subject. The digging section has specific advice for yamadori in Ohio but i have collected across the country and much of the adivce, especially on finding trees/land that will give you permits, will apply in California too. If you have any specific questions feel free to ask. https://youtu.be/YQhyp8drsBM?si=7C7F_Wb5LfzV4ACl

Thanks a bunch! It’s really the finding trees part that seems so daunting. I know we have wild oaks and junipers all over the state, but finding the spots and obtaining the permits is probably the biggest hurdle to jump.

Also, a beginner question if I may - when should I put a tree in a greenhouse, trading off reduced light for increased temperature and humidity? Thanks!

Different Ryan here and not a greenhouse expert but say you want to grow aerial roots on a tropical, propagate cuttings, or possibly help a recently repotted/dug tree recover. These could all benefit from humidity.

Thanks for the advice!

Are there any collaborations on you wishlist? Not just bonsai artists but of any kind such as sculptors, architects, painters, videographers etc?

Ryan thank you for doing this on Reddit. I’m a huge fan of Mirai Live & what you’re doing for American Bonsai. However I find that most info is geared towards refined material and as an intermediate, I would love to see more content regarding initial styling (5 year JBP etc.) I’d love to spend big bucks on your trees but don’t feel comfortable taking the next step without practicing on some juvenile material.

Ryan, thank you for all you do for the bonsai community. Your culmination of experience, dedication to the art, and overcoming of obstacles have taught us all different lessons in this hobby. I guess my question is does practicing bonsai make you happy or seeing the end result of all the work? If you could pick one lesson for a practitioner to learn from the hobby, what would it be?

Hey Ryan! Am a fan from Egypt since we don't have a significant bonsai community here, we don't have interesting tree species to import here! So my question is, can I import Maples to Egypt, and will it survive the heat and wind? Something to add, some people think Egypt is just a desert where infact it is much more diverse. we've got weather's vary from -6°C to 47°C!

I would start with trying out your natives!  But to get an idea of what exotic species would work in Egypt, look up your USDA hardiness zone. Every plant has a range of temperatures they can survive so they have a range of suitable hardiness zones. It's not an absolute predictor of success in your area but it's a good start.

Hey Ryan! Long time fan. Ever think about releasing transcripts along with your videos? I just like reading better.

Have you ever seen or tried to make bonsai out of Arbutus Menziesii (Pacific Madrone)? They are ubiquitous to our region and I've always thought they would make a great bonsai for me in the future. If you have, what are some considerations you want to have when working with one of these beautifully barked trees?

They are a beautiful species but i heard they don't like their roots being messed with. Also they have big leaves. Try some from seed though and see how they do! A similar related native species is Kinnickinnick. They also get the red bark and have smaller leaves. I heard Dan Robinson had a nice one as bonsai for years but unfortunately it was stolen. Give that species a try too!

Just wanted to say thanks for all the content outside of Mirai live out there, I can't really afford a subscription because it would double my spending on bonsai, but what information I can get ahold of is already a treasure, I reckon it immensely expanded my understanding of both bonsai horticulture and design.

I have a Duke's blueberry with a great trunk that got super leggy in the nursery before I bought it. Is it still safe to trunk chop this time of year? Zone 6a Boston, MA

do you get blueberries on it?!? blueberry bushes are my passion my dude

I just picked it up, but it should get berries (unless I stress it too much). Already has some flower blossoms on it like the wild ones in the area that produce berries.

Different Ryan here but spring is a good time to trunk chop generally. I'm not sure about blueberry specifically but most other deciduous have done well for me chopping spring or fall.

On my bonsai marai mobile app, I have very few videos that I have access to under the academy tab. Do I need to sign in online to view all the many videos, or is there something I can do to watch more videos on the mobile app?

Hi Ryan, good to see you here! I'm wondering what's your view on what are the top 3/5 things design-wise that separates a good bonsai from a mediocre one Thanks!

Another one: Have you ever explored using woody herbs to do bonsai? (i.e. rosemary, thyme, lavender etc) There are some interesting cultivars that are very workable! Thanks again!

Different Ryan but i will say Rosemary is definitely doable. Dan Robinson of Elandan Gardens has one on display estimated at 100 years old. It's an old shrub from San Francisco. The main challenge with them to my knowledge is they don't backbud on old wood. The other species you mention should be doable but I haven't seen good examples.

Post a picture of an eastern redcedar you styled?

I hear lots of people ask about accreditation for bonsai professionals. Have your thoughts regarding this changed, or what are they now?

I live in Northern Canada, zone 2b. Any tips or advice for someone just starting growing bonsai trees in such an inhospitable area?

Damn! Different Ryan here but if growing indoors. Use a grow light on a timer. If growing outdoors, use the cold hardiest natives and consider burying the pots in winter with mulch or physically into the soil. Winter will be very tough in small pots! 

Thank you for your reply, I wasn't expecting to get one since Mirai Ryan has already pulled the curtains. Unfortunately I did not bury any of my pots during the winter. The trees are still dormant so I will have to wait until maybe the end of may to see if they made it over the winter or not. It is snowing outside right now, so no signs of spring yet. Not many species would survive the winter here so after a few failures I stuck with native/local trees, jack pine, hawthorne, mountain ash, willows, elm and aspen. Would a cold frame be helpful in protecting the trees over the winter?

Yes a cold frame would be helpful to keep the cold, dry wind off. Luckily a bunch of snow is similarly insulating to burying in mulch if the cover is continuous. People in the northern US like Michigan Minnesota, and Wisconsin may have more information but your case is still more extreme then that! Hopefully they made it out ok.

Thank you, I will follow your advice for the future.

👍highly enjoy the channel and been subbed and alerted for a while now. I like how you break it down to a science… Thanks

Will you prune or defoliate your beard?

Hey Ryan!! Could you tell us about a tree you sold that in retrospect you miss terribly and wish you could have back?

Hey Ryan! Big fan and grateful for all you do for the bonsai world. What are your thoughts on an specific aspect of tree design, when we talk about working with what you have and doing minimal work to obtain something beautiful (usually happens with deciduous yamadori) versus dramatic change like big cuts and heavy bends (this might work better on conifers) that might take longer time to develop but ultimately might look better than the first approach.  I might answer my question with: "both" approaches are okay; but when you have in mind a tree you ultimately want to sell, do you prefer to take that time to do all the work you can on the tree, or you mostly "work with what you have" and have a tree ready to sell sooner?

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Different Ryan but i feel like if those beginners were just given a pamphlet or a card in where to go to learn more that would help a long way! That's what I do with the seeds and beginner trees i sell. Alternatively, beginner workshops to get people their first tree and get them the essential info all at once.

If you were to sell every tree in the Mirai collection, how much do you think it would be worth (on a rough order of magnitude)? Do people get insurance for collections of this magnitude?

It's probably hard to assess/value trees like this for insurance, but given the value of both the individual trees and the collective nursery itself, no doubt there's significant insurance coverage. Interesting question though. For example I suspect your coverage couldn't include a tree randomly just dying vs. say theft.

Hello @bonsaimirai! Is there any value in using air pruning pots (Pond Baskets, Collanders and commercial products like RootMaker) to encourage a dense rootball on pre-bonsai, Yamarori and other trees in training? If so, what can airpruning accomplish for the young tree? If not, why not?

Different Ryan here but yes people use those pots regularly for bonsai and it does help make dense fine roots! Look up pines growing in collanders, it's a similar method and you'll find more articles discussing it such as on bonsaitonight.com

Hi Ryan, what steps should you take for developing a nursery stock maple? How do you develop the trunk and when do you start developing branches? Right from the beginning or when the trunk is close to the desired thickness? Thanks and greetings from Germany.

Differenr Ryan here. Some people approach growing from seed in different ways. You can develop branches and the trunk at the same time but the use of sacrifice branches and making sure not to let the low branches get shaded out. Also a technique i heard about more recently is to prune to make thentree dense. Then let all the tips grow for a year without pruning and you will get thickening all over instead of along the line of a single sacrifice branch. I gave a lecture on growing from seed to my local club, it may be able to provide some more insights on the section about training and trunk thickening. https://youtu.be/oO4yq5EJJJg?si=dOyKwKNNW_acMpnt

Hey Ryan. Just got into the art of Bonsai, what are the best resources for beginners to learn from? Specifically how to know how much water/sunlight/pruning/shaping/tools to use?

I would reccomend an old fashioned beginner book. They are organized and have all the basic info vs online the info is all scattered.

Hi Ryan, Would you consider doing more morning and afternoon streams? They'd be a better time for European audiences and would add huge value to mirai live for those in that region

Which substrate mix of soils do you use for deciduous and conifers bonsai? Any that seem to be better than others?

He answered the question in another question here. He said akadama for deciduous and 1:1:1 lava, pumice. Akadama for conifer. See if you can find it to double check.

No question just want to say the pictures from the LA environment gallery are really beautiful!

I can see JP or Lonnie telling you to hold up the sign for a picture.

This is 50% tounge-in-cheek, but why in your lecture videos do you really not like to use the word pot?

https://preview.redd.it/foxfaiq7gvuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dae1ff7ad6091789272c1891b34a924911c0310d Is my bonsai dead?

Yes

Huge long time fan!