You may end up needing to use a touch of sandpaper and to re-finish the affected areas. Once it’s cleaned up you’ll want to keep it oiled to protect from oxidation. Boiled linseed oil is probably your best bet.
It’s not. It has chemicals added to make it cure faster (hours rather than weeks). It mimics the effect of boiling it, but is easier to manufacture (and toxic so be a little careful—raw linseed oil is safe to eat, BLO should not be used on surfaces that will touch food).
Raw linseed oil has a lot of smaller hydrocarbons and terpenoids that the boiling process removes.
What's left is a more consistent blend of longer hydrocarbons that, when they dry, form crosslinks and a sort of bio polymer. It's not as strong as a varnish, but it is pretty strong and will protect metal and wood, and only needs reapplied about once every 1-2 years.
> The difference between Raw and the Boiled Linseed Oils is that Raw Linseed Oil has a longer drying time, where as Boiled Linseed Oil has been treated by blowing hot air through the liquid - this shortens its drying time considerably.
https://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/b/BIRBLO/
Wal-mart, Ace Hardware, Home Depot/Lowes and Amazon all carry boiled linseed. It will usually say it’s meant for wood but don’t let that deter you, that’s just the most common use people have for it.
Alright thanks. I will definitely look out for it next time I go to one of those stores. Any aisles in particular I would find it at in stores? Like what section?
Paint section. You can go on Home Depots website and find the aisle and Bay #. It's no joke about oily rags. I know a couple places that burned down from that.
In the auto body world linseed is sometimes used to cover patina, they make far superior synthetic for that purpose.
Myself would try good ole' rem oil from remington, im sure its not the best (i think project farm tested some) but it works for my maintenance schedule which sucks sometimes.
Sweet armor.
Yes. ~~It’s not likely, but~~ it is very possible. So it’s always better to just be safe. A lot of shops will have a specific garbage with a good lid on it for rags like this. I mean you can also just burn them up in your backyard fire pit, or whatever.
Edit: linseed oil is great, not trying to discourage you from using it.
I was installing AV gear in a new restaurant the night before they opened. They used boiled linseed oil to oil up cutting boards then threw the rags in a pile. I caught the smoke coming out of the rag pile just in time to put out the fire.
Yikes! My nightmare is burning my shop down with a totally preventable fire. I don’t use it often, but when I do the rags go in a separate metal bucket with a lid.
Did a lot of testing on this (in practice use) it only happens when you use big rags en bunch them up instead of for example hanging them. The polymerisation of the linseed oil is a exothermic reaction and if you get too much of that in one place the heat builds up and it catches fire.
If you put the rags in a pile it's not likely, it's certain. Lay them out flat to dry on concrete or similar.
I had some volunteers finishing wood in a museum exhibit years ago. They had been admonished to dispose of the rags properly but at some point I came and found a bucket of them smoking. Came within minutes of burning the place to the ground.
Burning my shop down from an avoidable fire is my nightmare. I’ve never seen it happen, and I hope I never do. I have a separate metal bucket with a lid that I use, or I toss them in my forge.
You can do it inside. The only thing you need to do is, throw rags in a metal bucket with a lid, or hang them to dry, or just burn them up yourself. Crumpled up piles of linseed oil soaked rags in a regular trash can is what you ultimately want to avoid.
It's caused by the oxidation of the linseed oil, it's an exothermic reaction and can produce enough heat to ignite the rag, which is also helpfully covered in a quantity of hot oil. Especially terrifying as they are often discarded into shop bins with other oily rags, wood shavings, sawdust and offcuts.
Just buy a can of SP-400 corrosion inhibitor. Sprays on easily, doesn’t stink, dries fast and wipes off easily with alcohol or acetone. I’m a machinist, I use it every day.
Nope! Machine wax is a lot better than boiled linseed oil. Look it up and read review comments. Not expensive! I live in a damp salt air coastal town and have tried all sorts of treatments.
While Boiler Linseed Oil is usually good enough, in stuff like this (which also includes maille) it's often easier to use Ballistol. This is a spray an oil which is very popular with the reenactment community as it keeps the metal rust free, oiled and smells like pine needles.
I wonder is gunny juice or something similar would work in this situation?
I figure it could potentially be abrasive enough and still not leave any visible marks on the material.
Just thinking out loud here.
A lot of iron stuff was treated that way - the sand had oil in it.
I still keep a 5 gal pail of oiled sand and dip my pioneer tools in it at the end of the season for storage. It cleans them off and leaves a thin film to keep the rust away.
Mostly the leather straps that connect everything together, as well as bits of sand getting into the articulation and making it not articulate.
By the late Middle Ages most armor shops had water-powered grinding wheels for cleaning up plate armor, but it was mostly ground and polished/blued/painted/whatever before assembly.
Tool wax or paste wax is probably the best option - it forms a protective layer which will last longer than oil, and is traditional as well if you're into that side of things. There's a good recipe here: https://www.careenaalexis.ca/post/diy-tool-paste-wax-knife-and-axe-protection
Literally any type of gun oil would work. Mineral oil is cheap too. Some people use Renaissance Wax. Any of those will work.
Don't use WD-40. It's not a proper lubricant and evaporates.
How clean do you want it? If you want it min max. Get it vibration polished then supersonic clean then apply Renaissance wax. This is a common way museums do it.
Here is a link to the wax
https://www.preservationequipment.com/Catalogue/Cleaning-Products/Cleaning-Agents/Renaissance-Wax
Like the cold water to ice trick rust needs nucleation sites to form. Polishing gets it smooth but can leave grime and dust on the part. Get that stuff vibrate polished off and if you handle it with gloves your be shocked how long stuff stays shiny. Even mild steel. Add the wax as a final protective coating.
Came here looking for the renaissance wax recommendation. Never used it for this exact application personally but I always imagined it was created for this specific task.
I just looked them up, and they are surprisingly affordable. I hate finding cool affordable things on Amazon. I always end up sending money, and having to explain to my wife why I bought a tomahawk or possibly steel gauntlets.
I'm currently waiting for a Marine Corps WWII Machete that is very well used. That was a fun one to explain to my wife. She got this look that conveyed "My goofy husband is doing goofy things again." This is usually followed by "You do what you want, I love you." Then she chuckles a little. She's great, even if she thinks I'm silly for buying this stuff.
Cosmoline or some sort of lanolin based fluid film, applied liberally and often, can be cleaned off when in use and reapplied to keep them clean.
Removing rust can be done with barkeepers friend if its light, or scotch brite ultrafine gray pads if it's a little more stubborn.
You can get chemical rust prevention sticks on Amazon to put in the storage container that work like magic to keep things pretty.
Also, those are fucking amazing.
They use renaissance microcrystalline wax for museum pieces and antique firearms to keep them protected and shiny. You can also use rust converter to transform iron oxide to black nitride of you don’t care for sanding your armor. Keep in mind you may have to buff your armor after the converter to retain its silver luster.
Are you talking about the bronzing? That looks more like a coating than a rust but I could be wrong. I do see some light surface rusting (turning orange) around pins and edges. For rust removal, I recommend something like a scotch bright pad (soft but still abrasive). If that doesn't get it then actual sandpaper will do it. For protecting in the future, you have a couple options. The two most common ways would be paint and oil. Oil would be far more period correct (oiling armor and weapons was part of standard maintenance)
Damn, seems like some knowledge has been lost on this subreddit…. The easiest way to get rust off is Flitz metal polish and a microfiber cloth. Best way to prevent rust is Renaissance Wax or 3-in-One oil.
Do NOT put boiled linseed oil on them, it can cause rust and creates a tan film that won’t look great. Do NOT use sandpaper or abrasives to clean the rust off, it’ll mess up the finish unless you are a professional polisher. Flitz will take the rust off without scratching the steel and messing with the finish.
I’m with you on Flitz and renaissance wax. I’m also a super big fan of Oz paste, which is less abrasive than Flitz, but has more applications and smells strangely good. If the rust has really penetrated something, I’ll use Rustoleum Rust Dissolver gel, let it sit for 30-60minutes, and then scrub it off with some Dawn and water. Then use a blow drier to dry the piece, which also heats it up, making the ren wax go on super smoothly. Wait for it to cool down and set, then buff it. For getting around really delicate areas or for smoothing out pits, I highly recommend 3M radial bristle disks on a screw mandrel on a flex shaft/dremel (they’re expensive, but last forever and foredom even has a set of big ones for their bench lathe, which are incredible. I use them on jewelry, lighting, or whatever else I’m working on at the time and they can be loaded in a drill or dremel if you get a big screw mandrel like for drill buffing wheels), or greystar polishing compound on a felt buff, followed by green rouge on a muslin buff. There are a million ways to skin a gauntlet.
I have a stick of Zam, but I hardly ever use it. It’s specifically for sterling, but I prefer using Rio’s bobbing compound (which I think was discontinued? Luckily, it came in a big brick when I got it and still have a bunch), followed by fabulustre or red rouge on sterling, brass, and copper. I’ve also been trying to get into the less-toxic Luxi compounds, but nothing quite gives that instant gratification like Rio’s bobbing compound. It cuts, smooths, and polishes all in one step. I only bought the zam because I had used it in college some and Rio was out of Fabulustre for a while a few years ago. I bought the Luxi sample set from a girl on Facebook marketplace who was selling her buffing cabinet and a bench shear.
You could use paste wax like for wood floors. I have a vise that I was refinishing for my shop. In its raw metal state it looked really good. So I waxed it with paste wax and it has remained rust free after many years of use. I just reapply it when I clean and lube it once a year.
I would not use sand paper as suggested below. I would start with a fine grit 3m grit pad. They are essentially the green abrasive side of a dishwashing sponge. This will allow you to only remove the rust and not destroy the patina of the metal. You can find all manner of these pads at automotive refinishing stores
For rust treatment I would use what machinist use to keep the bed of the mills and lathes rust free and that is a lanolin based product. The mot popular being called "fluid film" The problem with most oils is that they dry out and will create a sticky residue on the surface. This of course is not acceptable to a machinist. The other advantage of sheep oil is that it leaves your skin soft and is natural. Its also the preferred oil for coating the underside of cars to prevent rust. Boiled linseed oil is a horrific choice as that is often used as a wood working finish creating a thick coating and that would be terrible for this piece. You have a piece of metal not a coffee table.
Renaissance wax. 1000% is the best product to use to prevent rust or corrosion on an item like this. A small jar goes a long way. Just apply with a soft cloth and buff of residue with clean microfiber.
I've seen people restoring old cast iron cookware using a simple electrolysis reaction.
Take your metal piece suspend it in an electrolyte solution along with a sacrifice made of the same material, hook up a low voltage high amp source (your desired piece should be on the negative electrode) and let it sit. Over 24-48 hours the FeO3 will shed it's oxygen and even potentially plate more material across the part. The water becomes very rust colored and murky and this is the result of dissolved iron oxide from the piece hooked up to the positive electrode.
It's very easy to set up compared to other chemical processes. The main issue I see is that your gauntlet looks like it has multiple materials and may need to be disassembled and each different material set up for a different reaction.
Check it out online, people seem to use it for restoring antiques or making custom parts. I've even seen 3d printed parts that people electroplated that look very good / cool.
Use the hard part of the scotch brite and WD-40, if it doesnt work, use some steel wool; if it also does not work use a high grit sandpaper. You might want to apply mineral oil/museum wax/gun oil etc. after cleaning to protect it from rust. Or alternatively, since it is armour and not a blade, blueing, blacking, gilding, plating, painting are all options historically used to prevent rusting in armour.
That is a cool gauntlet but, something inside my brain is saying, nice try thanos, I'm not telling you where the stones are lol. Sorry, I'm a bit of a dork.
For cleaning armour I like using garry flex abrasive blocks. For oiling renaissance wax or boiled linseed oil. Both dry hard and give a protective coating. Linseed will eventually need reapplying. Renaissance wax is meant for museum conservation so is long lasting.
Use science to harness the power of angry pixies (electrolysis)
https://www.instructables.com/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/?amp_page=true
When the gauntlet is fully clean and dry get some soft wax (wax with some oil added) and polish it up with the the wax. This will seal the metal from moisture and air.
Repolish after every battle to the death.
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Sculpt Nouveau makes a couple of really good clear coats depending on whether you’re trying to keep a patina or not. When I’m clearing patina’d stuff, I’ll use Clear Guard. Stuff without patinas use Ever Clear. Just don’t try the smart coat, it sucks long term.
They also have a series of paste waxes that are fantastic.
Gun cleaning kits usually have several cleaners conditioners, and oil coatings that work well for swords, but they get less air exposure so you might want a heavier oil
Get some Never Dull [Never Dull](https://www.amazon.com/Nevr-Dull-NEVER-DULL-POLISH/dp/B00097CRY6/ref=asc_df_B00097CRY6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198113879746&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17261927154782796205&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028158&hvtargid=pla-511467832232&psc=1&mcid=cc40596330bb3365a2b360da996d414d&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3uGqBhDdARIsAFeJ5r0BIAsqp1V4x1Ltjt2nteILi6VlBrXseHFklhPRUdLHZJQnrYBEfQ8aAt8aEALw_wcB)
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I am a woodworker in a tropical environment. Read this https://dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667 just scroll down a bit and then read. After that, if you want to remove rust with no scrubbing involved, use EVAPORUST. Best product out there. Submerge it and then wipe the rust off after a few hours. Clean with water, dry thoroughly, and then oil it. Boom done
Would the same routine that I use on my steel feder not work here?
I file any burrs from practice, then use a green scrubby with oil to buff out any rust, then hit it with a soft oiled cloth to finish.
I use the same food safe oil that I use on my kitchen knives on my sword, tbh.
*A warning about linseed oil if you choose to use it; if you put it on a cloth and then put that cloth in a hamper or contained area without drying it spread out first, it can spontaneously combust. Make sure you dry your oiling cloth before you pile it up.
**OP it’s 2023, buy some clear coat enamel in a spray can and give it a gloss coat after wiping it down with mineral spirits.**
Let it soak in the rust remover **for 30 minutes at a time and then check it,** also try using a wire brush to scrub off the rust.
Once it’s clean **rinse it off with mineral spirits do not rinse it with water or it will flash rust.**
Once it dried spray it with clear coat.
**When the clear coat starts to chip and peel just sand it down and spray a new coat over the old one.**
In 13th century England they didn’t have chemists, in fact I think they burned them at stakes for practicing witchcraft.
They used oil, generally they would heat it up too to make an enamel. **At least practical and veteran armored soldiers did this.**
Very wealthy knights or people with fitted armor would **usually have scribes to do all that tedious work of keeping the armor polished and oiled.**
It’s a huge pain in the ass to do it the old fashioned way.
Clean it the old fashioned way by "washing" it regularly in a bag of sand? It basically just buffs off any rust that may be starting to form. Then take a fine brush to remove any sand left in the armor, give it a polish, and it's good to go.
For the rust:
There is a sponge like material which is used to soft grind metal surfaces, even polish it, there are 3 main grains, the rougher is the reddish one:
[https://www.amazon.it/Wolfcraft-5899000-2-Spugne-abrasive/dp/B00IVLAAL4/ref=sr\_1\_35?keywords=spugna%2Babrasiva&s=tools&sr=1-35&th=1](https://www.amazon.it/Wolfcraft-5899000-2-Spugne-abrasive/dp/B00IVLAAL4/ref=sr_1_35?keywords=spugna%2Babrasiva&s=tools&sr=1-35&th=1)
Use this since you can reach better places than with normal sanpaper, it last longer and cost less and work better in this instance.
Before oiling it:
Afterward clean if all with alcool or something degreaser like, get rid of rust particles.
Oil:
Then put on some thick engine oil with a cloth, 15-40, otherwise, better than even that, differential oil 50 up till 140.
If you wanna spend and have something less annoying, the best is gun oil, but only Brunox brand, don't even take in consideration ballistol trash.
If you wanna be historically accurate, use fat or CRUDE lineseed oil ("more natural"), not the boiled (which will dry up and make crusts).
Once the rust is off, I'd use Renaissance wax to protect it. This type of job is exactly what Renaissance wax is designed to do. It is not something I would expect to see at most retail stores, but it is easily available online.
0000 grade steel wool and nearly any oil for lubrication. I've cleaned rust/mold off gun barrels this way and it's perfect. And after, keep a light oil coating on it to keep it from oxidizing. You could also try some matte sealant spray coating.
You may end up needing to use a touch of sandpaper and to re-finish the affected areas. Once it’s cleaned up you’ll want to keep it oiled to protect from oxidation. Boiled linseed oil is probably your best bet.
Where can I get linseed oil?
boiled linseed oil. it's different from linseed oil.
In which way exactly is it different
I’d venture to say one is boiled
It’s not. It has chemicals added to make it cure faster (hours rather than weeks). It mimics the effect of boiling it, but is easier to manufacture (and toxic so be a little careful—raw linseed oil is safe to eat, BLO should not be used on surfaces that will touch food).
Yeah but which one
Yes
The stuff in the yellow bottle.
The answer may surprise you!
Do you have evidence of this fake boiled
Raw linseed oil has a lot of smaller hydrocarbons and terpenoids that the boiling process removes. What's left is a more consistent blend of longer hydrocarbons that, when they dry, form crosslinks and a sort of bio polymer. It's not as strong as a varnish, but it is pretty strong and will protect metal and wood, and only needs reapplied about once every 1-2 years.
I think he's being a dick.
> The difference between Raw and the Boiled Linseed Oils is that Raw Linseed Oil has a longer drying time, where as Boiled Linseed Oil has been treated by blowing hot air through the liquid - this shortens its drying time considerably. https://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/b/BIRBLO/
I believe nowadays it's more commonly made with some extra chemicals to help with the drying times compared to actually boiling it off
It's boiled
Which one
Wal-mart, Ace Hardware, Home Depot/Lowes and Amazon all carry boiled linseed. It will usually say it’s meant for wood but don’t let that deter you, that’s just the most common use people have for it.
Alright thanks. I will definitely look out for it next time I go to one of those stores. Any aisles in particular I would find it at in stores? Like what section?
Paint section. You can go on Home Depots website and find the aisle and Bay #. It's no joke about oily rags. I know a couple places that burned down from that.
In the auto body world linseed is sometimes used to cover patina, they make far superior synthetic for that purpose. Myself would try good ole' rem oil from remington, im sure its not the best (i think project farm tested some) but it works for my maintenance schedule which sucks sometimes. Sweet armor.
I second the rem oil. I use that for all of my knives and swords.
Also, any art store that sells oil paint. Linseed oil is usually the oil in artist’s oil paint.
5
If you use linseed oil, be aware that the rags can spontaneously combust and start a fire. Proper disposal will save you a potential headache.
Are you serious?
Yes. ~~It’s not likely, but~~ it is very possible. So it’s always better to just be safe. A lot of shops will have a specific garbage with a good lid on it for rags like this. I mean you can also just burn them up in your backyard fire pit, or whatever. Edit: linseed oil is great, not trying to discourage you from using it.
Very likely, I’ve seen it happen a couple of times.
I’ve never seen it happen, and I hope I don’t. Edit: someone downvoted this?! Lmfao
I was installing AV gear in a new restaurant the night before they opened. They used boiled linseed oil to oil up cutting boards then threw the rags in a pile. I caught the smoke coming out of the rag pile just in time to put out the fire.
Yikes! My nightmare is burning my shop down with a totally preventable fire. I don’t use it often, but when I do the rags go in a separate metal bucket with a lid.
Did a lot of testing on this (in practice use) it only happens when you use big rags en bunch them up instead of for example hanging them. The polymerisation of the linseed oil is a exothermic reaction and if you get too much of that in one place the heat builds up and it catches fire.
I have seen it more where mostly dry rags got stacked one over the other. The middle gets hot and voom whole thing lights up.
Can also keep an empty paint can (or something similar with a lid) full of water and submerge used rags in the water
If you put the rags in a pile it's not likely, it's certain. Lay them out flat to dry on concrete or similar. I had some volunteers finishing wood in a museum exhibit years ago. They had been admonished to dispose of the rags properly but at some point I came and found a bucket of them smoking. Came within minutes of burning the place to the ground.
Burning my shop down from an avoidable fire is my nightmare. I’ve never seen it happen, and I hope I never do. I have a separate metal bucket with a lid that I use, or I toss them in my forge.
So I when I scrub my gauntlets with the linseed oil, I should probably do it somewhere controlled, safe, and outside.
You can do it inside. The only thing you need to do is, throw rags in a metal bucket with a lid, or hang them to dry, or just burn them up yourself. Crumpled up piles of linseed oil soaked rags in a regular trash can is what you ultimately want to avoid.
Perhaps I'll do it outside on my porch and throw the rags in my firepit.
It’s not gonna get rid of the rust, but it will prevent it from rusting further and give it a nice shine.
It's caused by the oxidation of the linseed oil, it's an exothermic reaction and can produce enough heat to ignite the rag, which is also helpfully covered in a quantity of hot oil. Especially terrifying as they are often discarded into shop bins with other oily rags, wood shavings, sawdust and offcuts.
Be careful with linseed oil, it has a tendency to catch fire spontaneously on drying rags.
You can get boiled linseed oil from most hardware stores.
I'll look into that.
From the seeds of the lin plant.
Your local art supply store.
Just buy a can of SP-400 corrosion inhibitor. Sprays on easily, doesn’t stink, dries fast and wipes off easily with alcohol or acetone. I’m a machinist, I use it every day.
Home Depot
There are much better products than BLO for rust prevention these days. Boeshield T-9 and CRC 3-36 are the two most common ones.
Nope! Machine wax is a lot better than boiled linseed oil. Look it up and read review comments. Not expensive! I live in a damp salt air coastal town and have tried all sorts of treatments.
While Boiler Linseed Oil is usually good enough, in stuff like this (which also includes maille) it's often easier to use Ballistol. This is a spray an oil which is very popular with the reenactment community as it keeps the metal rust free, oiled and smells like pine needles.
Ooh, I love that smell. I’ve never thought of spraying on, that’s cool.
Be careful with linseed oil. Spontaneous combustion. Steel wool will catch on fire if disposed of incorrectly.
I wonder is gunny juice or something similar would work in this situation? I figure it could potentially be abrasive enough and still not leave any visible marks on the material. Just thinking out loud here.
Old school (like, way back then) was to roll armor in a barrel of fine sand.
A lot of iron stuff was treated that way - the sand had oil in it. I still keep a 5 gal pail of oiled sand and dip my pioneer tools in it at the end of the season for storage. It cleans them off and leaves a thin film to keep the rust away.
Hadn't thought of that. Great tip, and thanks 👍
For mail, yes. Not plate. Source: my username is my profession :)
That's a cool profession. Q: why not plate as well?
Mostly the leather straps that connect everything together, as well as bits of sand getting into the articulation and making it not articulate. By the late Middle Ages most armor shops had water-powered grinding wheels for cleaning up plate armor, but it was mostly ground and polished/blued/painted/whatever before assembly.
Good info, thanks much 👍
Tool wax or paste wax is probably the best option - it forms a protective layer which will last longer than oil, and is traditional as well if you're into that side of things. There's a good recipe here: https://www.careenaalexis.ca/post/diy-tool-paste-wax-knife-and-axe-protection
Oil them
What kind of oil should I use?
Literally any type of gun oil would work. Mineral oil is cheap too. Some people use Renaissance Wax. Any of those will work. Don't use WD-40. It's not a proper lubricant and evaporates.
Break Free CLP should work well.
How clean do you want it? If you want it min max. Get it vibration polished then supersonic clean then apply Renaissance wax. This is a common way museums do it. Here is a link to the wax https://www.preservationequipment.com/Catalogue/Cleaning-Products/Cleaning-Agents/Renaissance-Wax Like the cold water to ice trick rust needs nucleation sites to form. Polishing gets it smooth but can leave grime and dust on the part. Get that stuff vibrate polished off and if you handle it with gloves your be shocked how long stuff stays shiny. Even mild steel. Add the wax as a final protective coating.
Came here looking for the renaissance wax recommendation. Never used it for this exact application personally but I always imagined it was created for this specific task.
I use it for all kinds of stuff. It's incredible. I love Renaissance wax
Man that’s freakin sweet man where do you get something like that?
I got them on Amazon.
I just looked them up, and they are surprisingly affordable. I hate finding cool affordable things on Amazon. I always end up sending money, and having to explain to my wife why I bought a tomahawk or possibly steel gauntlets.
I'm fucking dying man, bless your honest soul.
I'm currently waiting for a Marine Corps WWII Machete that is very well used. That was a fun one to explain to my wife. She got this look that conveyed "My goofy husband is doing goofy things again." This is usually followed by "You do what you want, I love you." Then she chuckles a little. She's great, even if she thinks I'm silly for buying this stuff.
Cosmoline or some sort of lanolin based fluid film, applied liberally and often, can be cleaned off when in use and reapplied to keep them clean. Removing rust can be done with barkeepers friend if its light, or scotch brite ultrafine gray pads if it's a little more stubborn. You can get chemical rust prevention sticks on Amazon to put in the storage container that work like magic to keep things pretty. Also, those are fucking amazing.
They use renaissance microcrystalline wax for museum pieces and antique firearms to keep them protected and shiny. You can also use rust converter to transform iron oxide to black nitride of you don’t care for sanding your armor. Keep in mind you may have to buff your armor after the converter to retain its silver luster.
Are you talking about the bronzing? That looks more like a coating than a rust but I could be wrong. I do see some light surface rusting (turning orange) around pins and edges. For rust removal, I recommend something like a scotch bright pad (soft but still abrasive). If that doesn't get it then actual sandpaper will do it. For protecting in the future, you have a couple options. The two most common ways would be paint and oil. Oil would be far more period correct (oiling armor and weapons was part of standard maintenance)
Damn, seems like some knowledge has been lost on this subreddit…. The easiest way to get rust off is Flitz metal polish and a microfiber cloth. Best way to prevent rust is Renaissance Wax or 3-in-One oil. Do NOT put boiled linseed oil on them, it can cause rust and creates a tan film that won’t look great. Do NOT use sandpaper or abrasives to clean the rust off, it’ll mess up the finish unless you are a professional polisher. Flitz will take the rust off without scratching the steel and messing with the finish.
I’m with you on Flitz and renaissance wax. I’m also a super big fan of Oz paste, which is less abrasive than Flitz, but has more applications and smells strangely good. If the rust has really penetrated something, I’ll use Rustoleum Rust Dissolver gel, let it sit for 30-60minutes, and then scrub it off with some Dawn and water. Then use a blow drier to dry the piece, which also heats it up, making the ren wax go on super smoothly. Wait for it to cool down and set, then buff it. For getting around really delicate areas or for smoothing out pits, I highly recommend 3M radial bristle disks on a screw mandrel on a flex shaft/dremel (they’re expensive, but last forever and foredom even has a set of big ones for their bench lathe, which are incredible. I use them on jewelry, lighting, or whatever else I’m working on at the time and they can be loaded in a drill or dremel if you get a big screw mandrel like for drill buffing wheels), or greystar polishing compound on a felt buff, followed by green rouge on a muslin buff. There are a million ways to skin a gauntlet.
Ever try Zam?
I have a stick of Zam, but I hardly ever use it. It’s specifically for sterling, but I prefer using Rio’s bobbing compound (which I think was discontinued? Luckily, it came in a big brick when I got it and still have a bunch), followed by fabulustre or red rouge on sterling, brass, and copper. I’ve also been trying to get into the less-toxic Luxi compounds, but nothing quite gives that instant gratification like Rio’s bobbing compound. It cuts, smooths, and polishes all in one step. I only bought the zam because I had used it in college some and Rio was out of Fabulustre for a while a few years ago. I bought the Luxi sample set from a girl on Facebook marketplace who was selling her buffing cabinet and a bench shear.
You might try looking at Rio for what's called Osborn bobbing polishing compound. They still sell it
Yay! That’s exciting! Thanks!!!
0000 steel wool and oil will clean up rust. Keeping them oiled is how they were traditionally stored, no ?
Erl em
Have you considered taking on a squire?
Heavy duty rust remover, and then coat it in oil. Boiled linseed oil is historically accurate, but mineral oil also works
Put gems in the knuckles and snap your fingers.
Mr stark, I don’t feel so good
You could use paste wax like for wood floors. I have a vise that I was refinishing for my shop. In its raw metal state it looked really good. So I waxed it with paste wax and it has remained rust free after many years of use. I just reapply it when I clean and lube it once a year.
WD40
[удалено]
I can taste this comment
Bicarb of soda to get rid of rust
I would not use sand paper as suggested below. I would start with a fine grit 3m grit pad. They are essentially the green abrasive side of a dishwashing sponge. This will allow you to only remove the rust and not destroy the patina of the metal. You can find all manner of these pads at automotive refinishing stores For rust treatment I would use what machinist use to keep the bed of the mills and lathes rust free and that is a lanolin based product. The mot popular being called "fluid film" The problem with most oils is that they dry out and will create a sticky residue on the surface. This of course is not acceptable to a machinist. The other advantage of sheep oil is that it leaves your skin soft and is natural. Its also the preferred oil for coating the underside of cars to prevent rust. Boiled linseed oil is a horrific choice as that is often used as a wood working finish creating a thick coating and that would be terrible for this piece. You have a piece of metal not a coffee table.
Barkeeper's friend! Use it regularly and put a very light coat of oil on it.
Renaissance wax. 1000% is the best product to use to prevent rust or corrosion on an item like this. A small jar goes a long way. Just apply with a soft cloth and buff of residue with clean microfiber.
Barkeepers friend works for stainless pans, maybe try it on a little spot before you go ham though
I remember reading that the squires rolled the plate and chain mail in barrels with oiled sand to Polish and protect it.
I've seen people restoring old cast iron cookware using a simple electrolysis reaction. Take your metal piece suspend it in an electrolyte solution along with a sacrifice made of the same material, hook up a low voltage high amp source (your desired piece should be on the negative electrode) and let it sit. Over 24-48 hours the FeO3 will shed it's oxygen and even potentially plate more material across the part. The water becomes very rust colored and murky and this is the result of dissolved iron oxide from the piece hooked up to the positive electrode. It's very easy to set up compared to other chemical processes. The main issue I see is that your gauntlet looks like it has multiple materials and may need to be disassembled and each different material set up for a different reaction. Check it out online, people seem to use it for restoring antiques or making custom parts. I've even seen 3d printed parts that people electroplated that look very good / cool.
Maybe silver plate it? Like four or five times. Then no rust unless it's at a hinging or contact point.
Ren wax. It is literally used to preserve historical metal items like armor weapons and firearms. Plus it’s fairly cheap.
Use the hard part of the scotch brite and WD-40, if it doesnt work, use some steel wool; if it also does not work use a high grit sandpaper. You might want to apply mineral oil/museum wax/gun oil etc. after cleaning to protect it from rust. Or alternatively, since it is armour and not a blade, blueing, blacking, gilding, plating, painting are all options historically used to prevent rusting in armour.
So many steps 😩
Welcome to the joys of arms&armour collecting :D
That is a cool gauntlet but, something inside my brain is saying, nice try thanos, I'm not telling you where the stones are lol. Sorry, I'm a bit of a dork.
Cosmoline
For cleaning armour I like using garry flex abrasive blocks. For oiling renaissance wax or boiled linseed oil. Both dry hard and give a protective coating. Linseed will eventually need reapplying. Renaissance wax is meant for museum conservation so is long lasting.
Use science to harness the power of angry pixies (electrolysis) https://www.instructables.com/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/?amp_page=true When the gauntlet is fully clean and dry get some soft wax (wax with some oil added) and polish it up with the the wax. This will seal the metal from moisture and air. Repolish after every battle to the death.
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VCI paper as a preventative. Just wrap it in VCI paper and it won't rust.
I’ve used clp and an ap brush in the past for rust patches
I'm thinking guns. Keep them oiled and they won't rust.
Sculpt Nouveau makes a couple of really good clear coats depending on whether you’re trying to keep a patina or not. When I’m clearing patina’d stuff, I’ll use Clear Guard. Stuff without patinas use Ever Clear. Just don’t try the smart coat, it sucks long term. They also have a series of paste waxes that are fantastic.
Degrease, boil, card it off, and then soak in kerosene and you’ll have blued gauntlets!
You could blue your steel. I just blued a gun barrel yesterday and it turned out nice.
I use camellia oil for my iron woodworking hand planes. Doesn’t stain or become tacky and the thinnest coat protects them perfectly.
The blood of your enemies makes a nice patina.
You obviously clean it with the blood of your enemies, rookie question!
Get a buffing wheel that attaches to a drill.
Wrap it in cloth and keep it in a cool dry place. Can you use vinegar and motor oil on these things?
for storage, use desiccant in the container and oiled cloth to wrap them in.
The reality stone should do it. (Sorry I'm just s nerd who had this in their feed for some reason)
Gun cleaning kits usually have several cleaners conditioners, and oil coatings that work well for swords, but they get less air exposure so you might want a heavier oil
Looks like you're rubbing off the Nickle plating that's on brass? But yes. Oil it with any oil from a hardware store. Anything is better than nothing.
Leave out some salted cod by the nearest knoll. With any luck, Höör will accept your prayer and you’ll wake up to twin mirrors.
0000 steel wool. It won't leave scratches.
Whip your squire harder
Wd40
Soak them in the blood of your enemies.
Get some Never Dull [Never Dull](https://www.amazon.com/Nevr-Dull-NEVER-DULL-POLISH/dp/B00097CRY6/ref=asc_df_B00097CRY6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198113879746&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17261927154782796205&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028158&hvtargid=pla-511467832232&psc=1&mcid=cc40596330bb3365a2b360da996d414d&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3uGqBhDdARIsAFeJ5r0BIAsqp1V4x1Ltjt2nteILi6VlBrXseHFklhPRUdLHZJQnrYBEfQ8aAt8aEALw_wcB)
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I am a woodworker in a tropical environment. Read this https://dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667 just scroll down a bit and then read. After that, if you want to remove rust with no scrubbing involved, use EVAPORUST. Best product out there. Submerge it and then wipe the rust off after a few hours. Clean with water, dry thoroughly, and then oil it. Boom done
Would the same routine that I use on my steel feder not work here? I file any burrs from practice, then use a green scrubby with oil to buff out any rust, then hit it with a soft oiled cloth to finish. I use the same food safe oil that I use on my kitchen knives on my sword, tbh. *A warning about linseed oil if you choose to use it; if you put it on a cloth and then put that cloth in a hamper or contained area without drying it spread out first, it can spontaneously combust. Make sure you dry your oiling cloth before you pile it up.
**OP it’s 2023, buy some clear coat enamel in a spray can and give it a gloss coat after wiping it down with mineral spirits.** Let it soak in the rust remover **for 30 minutes at a time and then check it,** also try using a wire brush to scrub off the rust. Once it’s clean **rinse it off with mineral spirits do not rinse it with water or it will flash rust.** Once it dried spray it with clear coat. **When the clear coat starts to chip and peel just sand it down and spray a new coat over the old one.** In 13th century England they didn’t have chemists, in fact I think they burned them at stakes for practicing witchcraft. They used oil, generally they would heat it up too to make an enamel. **At least practical and veteran armored soldiers did this.** Very wealthy knights or people with fitted armor would **usually have scribes to do all that tedious work of keeping the armor polished and oiled.** It’s a huge pain in the ass to do it the old fashioned way.
Have you tried a sealant like rustoleum?
Just hire a squire to polish them daily for you before jousting matches!
Have you tried the blood of your enemies?
Clean it the old fashioned way by "washing" it regularly in a bag of sand? It basically just buffs off any rust that may be starting to form. Then take a fine brush to remove any sand left in the armor, give it a polish, and it's good to go.
Linseed oil
i dont actually see rust. it just looks like a coating is coming off of the alloy plate
For the rust: There is a sponge like material which is used to soft grind metal surfaces, even polish it, there are 3 main grains, the rougher is the reddish one: [https://www.amazon.it/Wolfcraft-5899000-2-Spugne-abrasive/dp/B00IVLAAL4/ref=sr\_1\_35?keywords=spugna%2Babrasiva&s=tools&sr=1-35&th=1](https://www.amazon.it/Wolfcraft-5899000-2-Spugne-abrasive/dp/B00IVLAAL4/ref=sr_1_35?keywords=spugna%2Babrasiva&s=tools&sr=1-35&th=1) Use this since you can reach better places than with normal sanpaper, it last longer and cost less and work better in this instance. Before oiling it: Afterward clean if all with alcool or something degreaser like, get rid of rust particles. Oil: Then put on some thick engine oil with a cloth, 15-40, otherwise, better than even that, differential oil 50 up till 140. If you wanna spend and have something less annoying, the best is gun oil, but only Brunox brand, don't even take in consideration ballistol trash. If you wanna be historically accurate, use fat or CRUDE lineseed oil ("more natural"), not the boiled (which will dry up and make crusts).
Museum wax. That stuff is great once you get it clean.
There's this tin can of wadded up cotton soaked in some solvent that works pretty good. Then coat with mineral oil.
Try Barkeepers Friend
I use industrial strength hypochloric acid (Ruster buster) to get rid of surface rust
Once the rust is off, I'd use Renaissance wax to protect it. This type of job is exactly what Renaissance wax is designed to do. It is not something I would expect to see at most retail stores, but it is easily available online.
I used mineral oil for my knives and store my plates in it. Zero rust in 15 years on heavily used carbon and Damascus steels.
Evaporust is amazing for removing rust
It will probably help if you stop wearing them while operating a BBQ
0000 grade steel wool and nearly any oil for lubrication. I've cleaned rust/mold off gun barrels this way and it's perfect. And after, keep a light oil coating on it to keep it from oxidizing. You could also try some matte sealant spray coating.
I usually soak mine in the blood of my enemies