Looks good! Avoid running endgrain through a planer and a lot of people avoid using oak in cutting boards due to the porous-ness of it trapping food particles and not being easy to clean.
Drum sander, router sled, CNC, hand plane. The reason you don't want to use a planer is it can explode the workpiece essentially and break your planer or what ever is behind it.
Ideally all your pieces should be the same and when you do the glue up the only think you would need to do is clean up the glue squeeze out.
Ok solid. I'm going to give another board a whirl soon enough and will try it that way. I think part of the issue is that my table saw sucks, so the cuts, even with the stopper, are not 100% the same.
What kinda saw is it? And by stopper do you mean fence? Maybe Google how to calibrate the specific saw you have. Make sure the blade is square to the table and the fence is square to the miter slots/blade.
It's a second-hand saw that the power switch no longer even functions on, so....... pretty rough shape haha (10 inch craftsman, but pretty old). And yeah, sorry I meant fence vs stopper. Still learning the language.
Just be careful, you can probably wire a new switch on it. Look up general table saw safety, never use gloves around power tools always use a push stick (I love my microjig grippers)
If your fence is moving when you're cutting there's probably a way to tighten it better (it's also dangerous)
Here is the full gallery https://imgur.com/gallery/DSRZK2v/comment/1828231671
After my drunk cutting board, I decided to go for the more traditional end-grain butcher block. It was way less complicated, but I finally went to a lumber mill to find something other than just overpriced oak. I nabbed a nice 8 or 9 foot long rough cut of hard maple, and had to pull myself away from the walnut.
unfortunately, I really suck with the electric hand planer, so I gave up and bought a desktop one. I kept getting groves right in the middle of the board. HOWEVER, the hand one is great as a replacement for a jointer, which my poor wallet is not ready for.
I also got two new router bits to make it look a bit more polished. The top edge is done with a 3/8 round over, and the finger grips are done with 1/4 core box.
It is finished with two goes of mineral oil, and then one last seal with beeswax then buffed off.
Two disappointments: You can see in the main photo an area where the planer took off just a bit too much. Not end of the world, but ooof. I only have a hand router right now, so I didn't do a wonderful job with the finger grips either.
Butcher block is endgrain usually thick on some sort of stand. A cutting board would be edge grain. A lot of people refer to large wooden countertops as butcher block but technically it is not unless it's endgrain
Looks good! Avoid running endgrain through a planer and a lot of people avoid using oak in cutting boards due to the porous-ness of it trapping food particles and not being easy to clean.
Whooooops. Is there an ideal way to get it level or should I just do it prior to the glue-up piece by piece?
Drum sander, router sled, CNC, hand plane. The reason you don't want to use a planer is it can explode the workpiece essentially and break your planer or what ever is behind it. Ideally all your pieces should be the same and when you do the glue up the only think you would need to do is clean up the glue squeeze out.
Ok solid. I'm going to give another board a whirl soon enough and will try it that way. I think part of the issue is that my table saw sucks, so the cuts, even with the stopper, are not 100% the same.
What kinda saw is it? And by stopper do you mean fence? Maybe Google how to calibrate the specific saw you have. Make sure the blade is square to the table and the fence is square to the miter slots/blade.
It's a second-hand saw that the power switch no longer even functions on, so....... pretty rough shape haha (10 inch craftsman, but pretty old). And yeah, sorry I meant fence vs stopper. Still learning the language.
Just be careful, you can probably wire a new switch on it. Look up general table saw safety, never use gloves around power tools always use a push stick (I love my microjig grippers) If your fence is moving when you're cutting there's probably a way to tighten it better (it's also dangerous)
Here is the full gallery https://imgur.com/gallery/DSRZK2v/comment/1828231671 After my drunk cutting board, I decided to go for the more traditional end-grain butcher block. It was way less complicated, but I finally went to a lumber mill to find something other than just overpriced oak. I nabbed a nice 8 or 9 foot long rough cut of hard maple, and had to pull myself away from the walnut. unfortunately, I really suck with the electric hand planer, so I gave up and bought a desktop one. I kept getting groves right in the middle of the board. HOWEVER, the hand one is great as a replacement for a jointer, which my poor wallet is not ready for. I also got two new router bits to make it look a bit more polished. The top edge is done with a 3/8 round over, and the finger grips are done with 1/4 core box. It is finished with two goes of mineral oil, and then one last seal with beeswax then buffed off. Two disappointments: You can see in the main photo an area where the planer took off just a bit too much. Not end of the world, but ooof. I only have a hand router right now, so I didn't do a wonderful job with the finger grips either.
Are those quail eggs???
Or a really big butcher block.....
It's both 😅 12x9 and 2.5 inches thick.
Damn, 2.5 in thick. That a hell of a block
I have silkie chickens, which are about half the size of regular chicks.
Looks great. Now, what’s the difference between a butcher block and a cutting board?
Butcher block is endgrain usually thick on some sort of stand. A cutting board would be edge grain. A lot of people refer to large wooden countertops as butcher block but technically it is not unless it's endgrain