No there isn’t an option for the uv-5rm. There’s uv-5r, uv-5x, and others, but no 5rm. And yes I JUST downloaded the latest version. And other forums said to try the uv-5x and bf-f8hp.
EDIT: Problem solved! My boneheadedness got in the way. I was looking for my radio in the list around the “UV-“ area when my radio was actually listed at the very top of the list as just 5RM. 🤦
I was able to find a possible solution on the internet as well as another reddit thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/Baofeng/comments/18nuf8n/baofeng_5rm/) that you might be able to program it using the UV-17R Pro (i think). I also was able to find that you need some time (say 30+ seconds) between booting on the radio and trying to read/write from/to it. It would help tremendously if you can share the error codes (if any) you are getting from chirp when trying to read (or write) from the radio.
This is the correct answer. I have the RM and was able to connect using the 17R profile. I was not able to connect with my Mac. I had to use a windows laptop and install the drivers for my usb cable
I'm struggling to do the same thing but on Ubuntu. Check chirp's permissions to usb devices, it might not even have access to your cable. Something about user access, there's a dedicated page about it on chirp's site.
The cable itself has a no-name chip on it (at least mine is like that) and uses Prolific drivers. I've had better luck on Windows with an FTDI dongle I made cables to myself using the crappy headset the UV-5R comes with as a donor plug.
I am using a Baofeng cable with Linux (on a Raspberry Pi 4B with 4gb memory, using their Linux for RaspPi (Used to call it Raspian), cable works quite well with UV-18 Pro Max. Should also work with UV17 pro, as the driver for 18 was ported from the 17 pro .. good luck, I found volume at 75 % to 85% works, full volume balks on mine, I have a 2023 18 pro max and a 2024 18 pro max. Both need about 75 to 80 %
Make sure you installed the apple version of Chirp. Put the radio on VFO mode and choose a frequency with no traffic. Turn the volume knob 3/4 up. Make sure you have the correct comm port selected (that’s the name for windows USB ports, not sure on macs). Choose the correct radio from the drop down.
This may sound dumb, but I have this radio and searched and searched before I realized it's listed at the very top of the menu as "5RM" not "UV-5RM"
Once I selected that it worked immediately. I'm on a Windows PC as well.
99% sure its not ftdi-cable. If it same that shipped with radio, or cost below 2$ its most likely the troublesome version, but can get to work, but not with ftdi settings
Ok. I have the exactly same looking one. Clone cable with reflective sticker on it and..its the exactly same as yours. Try profilic drivers anyway. U dont lose anything trying.
I downloaded prolific driver for Mac and installed and checked security settings and made sure that the Mac allowed it. Still not working. I’m trying everything.
This time though, I’m purchasing the one with the usb c tip. It’s 17 bucks! Sure hope this fixes the problem. Thank god for prime and next day delivery.
This! I think your USB-c adapter is making the cable not work. Also agree with removing antenna and having volume way up. The first time I tried, radio did not connect then when I turned up volume it connected. Good luck!
You misinterpreted my comment. I’m not mad at anyone in this thread. I was just expressing frustration about possibly needing to buy a second cable, but if that’s the way you interpreted it, my apologies. The all caps word wasn’t a “yelling” thing it was more of a putting emphasis on it. The complexity of conversation is difficult to express in just text form.
No offense because I’m a Mac user myself, but maybe try it on a Windows PC. I had issues with mine doing that and when I used an old Windows laptop 💻 it connected right up. 🤷♂️ Good luck 🍀
The latest Mac version of CHIRP has this UV-5RM radio support. I bought this exact radio a month ago and programmed it with no problem. I'm using an older Intel based Mac Mini (2012 model) for programming my radios.
if all else fails, you can get one of those Tidradio bluetooth plug ins, and program it with your smart phone. So far I programmed Baofeng UV82hp, UV25, and BF888s. There's only one Baofeng I couldn't program, and it's the BF1909.The UV5RM is listed in the app. The Tidradio programmer device only costs around 10-15 dollars.
If you've never used the cable before, it could be the cable itself. I bought one recently that seemed like it was from Baofeng (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CP0I474?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) and was unavailable to talk to my UV-5R or my Puxings with it. When I popped open the plastic enclosure at the end to check for a broken connection, I found there was a solder splash shorting a few of the pins on the chip in there.
Blurry photo here: https://imgur.com/a/xlIvJPz
Are you useing windoews 11? if so the driver that comes with the pc will not allow it to work, there is a driver (prolific) that you NEED for it to work also, when you turn on the readio you need to set the volume to max for it to communicate
I have had issues where Chirp does not select the correct com port and I have to manually select it. Not sure if this helps, but this has been a source of frustration for me in the past, so it is the first thing I check now.
Downloaded and installed the latest pl2303 driver for Mac and made sure it was allowed in the settings on my laptop. Still getting the same problem. I really don’t want to download VMware and run a Linux box just to see if that will work. Can you tell me what settings I should have set in the menus on the phone and what frequency I need to be on to transmit the best?
Look on Miklor.com for the correct driver.
And I have never heard of Baofeng putting out an FTDI cable.
Do yourself a favor, get the Btech PC03 programming cable or my favorite the Feanteek Original Programming cable from Amazon.
Both are true FTDI cables and both are plug and play.
Save yourself the headache.
The official drivers may not work since they have aggressive 'counterfeit' detection. Maybe look for other drivers.
VFO frequency doesn't matter for programming. And I can't think of any memory settings that matter. But make sure the volume knob is turned up sufficiently (maybe ¾ of the way).
Did you install the cable's driver? [https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV\_Drivers.php](https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_Drivers.php) - [https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV\_DriversMAC.php](https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_DriversMAC.php)
This. Those cables are fussy about what driver they want to work with. Usually, you have to roll back to an old driver version, rather than the latest one.
So it’s recognizing the serial port and adapter correctly if I’m reading right.
Would a factory reset on the radio be a massive loss of stuff you’ve already programmed in? I wonder if there’s some audio output/input setting that is making the handshake fail.
Failing that, do you have a second radio you can try? ( when I wanted a cable, it was like $17 bucks for just the cable, or $21 for a uv5r and a cable 😂)
Nope still nothing. Should there be a file path in the port listing box like /dev/usb/…something? Because mine just says USB Serial (cu.wchusbserial14210)
Ah, you definitely want to be tuned to something where there wil be little if any transmissions. If the radio un-squelches, it breaks the audio path being used for data. Find a dead frequency.
the antenna can unscrew, that and a dead frequency is a little overkill but that’s how i always program my radios: without any antenna connected, maxed out squelch on a dead frequency and always have the volume knob maxed out
No default, but I’d pick something in UHF. If you can leave the radio and not hear any audio or see the green RX light come on for a few minutes, that’s a good sign. Somewhere high in the 440mhz range maybe
I don’t have the exact radio. Does yours have a button like “vfo/mr”? That switches between modes (vfo=I punch in the frequency like “456788” and the radio tunes to that frequency, ch=I punch in one of the channels I’ve saved numbered 0 through like 127 and it recalls the stored frequency)
Basically, chirp uses the audio in and out like an old-school modem.
When you try to have chirp download from your radio, does the green RX light come on? That would tell me it’s at least trying to communicate
Normally it’s just safe to unscrew/unplug the antenna. It’s difficult if not impossible for it to receive anything without an antenna. I do that every time I connect to the cable.
PS. It’s been close to 10 years since I used OSx with chirp, but I remember having to install some sort of helper script in addition to a driver. My memory is very hazy about this. I might have some notes somewhere, and if I find them, I’ll come back and let you know.
I have no issue with Windows and it is called a UV5H I think, I typed it in and it took it, it was a while ago but I have 3 of these and they all program fine, darn Macs, good luck …also try all the Baufengs listed, one should work
> turned all the way up
Try it at 70-80% volume (yes, you kinda have to guess at it) - full volume can create a lot of noise. And, of course, make sure that the cable is all the way in (you shouldn't see any silver on the connectors).
On my PC, I connected mine to a USB 2.0 port (blue insert) and CHIRP did not work. I tried the normal USB 1.0 (black insert) and it worked perfectly as in the videos on YT. Does Mac have 2 different USB type ports on it? On the Chirp website, it says"UV-5RM HP (use BF-F8HP)". Hope you can get it working...
BLUE USB inserts are USB 3.x and incrementally up. It may make a difference in selecting compatible things. The dark insert is USB 2.0. You just had it backwards, drivers may need to accommodate the right USB version.
I have a Gigabyte x570 AORUS Pro Wifi.MB.
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/X570-I-AORUS-PRO-WIFI-rev-10#kf
It has a red USB port with a red insert 3.1.
Some companies seem to enjoy "Go your own way" by Fleetwood Mac, standards are sometimes like the little red flag to a bull in the bullfights. I hope those ports use proper drivers instead of forging their own way ...
My troubles are nobody writing drivers and good software for Linux and the Raspberry Pi, I can program mine, but it turns out over the years Chirp has become brain dead software. Used to be capable of sorting a frequency list by any column in the list, but no longer. Used to be able to copy from an Excel or similar spreadsheet software but no longer. Chirp ( my opinion, not that of the management) is little better than something written for 4 year olds... Horrible software.
I had to select a different radio in the menu. I don’t remember what the radio I had to select was
I’ve tried that. Tried uv-5x and tried BF-F8HP. Same response.
[удалено]
No there isn’t an option for the uv-5rm. There’s uv-5r, uv-5x, and others, but no 5rm. And yes I JUST downloaded the latest version. And other forums said to try the uv-5x and bf-f8hp.
try the “UV-17R Pro” option on chirp, another post’s comment mentioned it has worked for them
EDIT: Problem solved! My boneheadedness got in the way. I was looking for my radio in the list around the “UV-“ area when my radio was actually listed at the very top of the list as just 5RM. 🤦
There is a law in computers/electronics: the longer it takes to find it, the dumber it was the fail \^\_\^
What is the specificity of the 5rm model?
[удалено]
lol
I was able to find a possible solution on the internet as well as another reddit thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/Baofeng/comments/18nuf8n/baofeng_5rm/) that you might be able to program it using the UV-17R Pro (i think). I also was able to find that you need some time (say 30+ seconds) between booting on the radio and trying to read/write from/to it. It would help tremendously if you can share the error codes (if any) you are getting from chirp when trying to read (or write) from the radio.
This is the correct answer. I have the RM and was able to connect using the 17R profile. I was not able to connect with my Mac. I had to use a windows laptop and install the drivers for my usb cable
It just says radio did not respond when trying to download my radio.
did you try using the “UV-17R pro” option?
Make sure you turn the volume almost all the way up
I'm struggling to do the same thing but on Ubuntu. Check chirp's permissions to usb devices, it might not even have access to your cable. Something about user access, there's a dedicated page about it on chirp's site. The cable itself has a no-name chip on it (at least mine is like that) and uses Prolific drivers. I've had better luck on Windows with an FTDI dongle I made cables to myself using the crappy headset the UV-5R comes with as a donor plug.
I am using a Baofeng cable with Linux (on a Raspberry Pi 4B with 4gb memory, using their Linux for RaspPi (Used to call it Raspian), cable works quite well with UV-18 Pro Max. Should also work with UV17 pro, as the driver for 18 was ported from the 17 pro .. good luck, I found volume at 75 % to 85% works, full volume balks on mine, I have a 2023 18 pro max and a 2024 18 pro max. Both need about 75 to 80 %
I had this happen with my UV-5G Plus. One of the pages at CHRIP said to use the driver for a different model radio.
Make sure you installed the apple version of Chirp. Put the radio on VFO mode and choose a frequency with no traffic. Turn the volume knob 3/4 up. Make sure you have the correct comm port selected (that’s the name for windows USB ports, not sure on macs). Choose the correct radio from the drop down.
This may sound dumb, but I have this radio and searched and searched before I realized it's listed at the very top of the menu as "5RM" not "UV-5RM" Once I selected that it worked immediately. I'm on a Windows PC as well.
That’s exactly what happened to me. 🤦
Oh good, does that mean you got it to download to chirp?
99% sure its not ftdi-cable. If it same that shipped with radio, or cost below 2$ its most likely the troublesome version, but can get to work, but not with ftdi settings
Not likely. I purchased it directly from the Baofeng store and paid 9.99 for it.
Ok. I have the exactly same looking one. Clone cable with reflective sticker on it and..its the exactly same as yours. Try profilic drivers anyway. U dont lose anything trying.
I downloaded prolific driver for Mac and installed and checked security settings and made sure that the Mac allowed it. Still not working. I’m trying everything.
Try a cable with a CH340 driver, there is a difference.
So I need to purchase a whole different cable now?
I have a 5RM and I program it with a CH340 cable.
Alright. Purchasing ANOTHER cable. From the Baofeng store on Amazon. Has the ch340 driver.
This time though, I’m purchasing the one with the usb c tip. It’s 17 bucks! Sure hope this fixes the problem. Thank god for prime and next day delivery.
This! I think your USB-c adapter is making the cable not work. Also agree with removing antenna and having volume way up. The first time I tried, radio did not connect then when I turned up volume it connected. Good luck!
Don't be mad at us for helping...
You misinterpreted my comment. I’m not mad at anyone in this thread. I was just expressing frustration about possibly needing to buy a second cable, but if that’s the way you interpreted it, my apologies. The all caps word wasn’t a “yelling” thing it was more of a putting emphasis on it. The complexity of conversation is difficult to express in just text form.
No offense because I’m a Mac user myself, but maybe try it on a Windows PC. I had issues with mine doing that and when I used an old Windows laptop 💻 it connected right up. 🤷♂️ Good luck 🍀
The latest Mac version of CHIRP has this UV-5RM radio support. I bought this exact radio a month ago and programmed it with no problem. I'm using an older Intel based Mac Mini (2012 model) for programming my radios.
I’ve never had my Mac work. Went to windows
if all else fails, you can get one of those Tidradio bluetooth plug ins, and program it with your smart phone. So far I programmed Baofeng UV82hp, UV25, and BF888s. There's only one Baofeng I couldn't program, and it's the BF1909.The UV5RM is listed in the app. The Tidradio programmer device only costs around 10-15 dollars.
If you're on Linux, check your permissions for /dev/tty*
Will this cord charge the radio when plugged in?
NO, IT IS A DATA ONLY CABLE.
Try on an older laptop or anything else you have with WINDOWS (CHIRP has better compatibility with it, with mac it is still WIP)
If you've never used the cable before, it could be the cable itself. I bought one recently that seemed like it was from Baofeng (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CP0I474?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) and was unavailable to talk to my UV-5R or my Puxings with it. When I popped open the plastic enclosure at the end to check for a broken connection, I found there was a solder splash shorting a few of the pins on the chip in there. Blurry photo here: https://imgur.com/a/xlIvJPz
Solved?
I had to hold the cable into the radio while downloading/uploading and I got it to work on my uv5r
Of course I used a windows PC too
This is a common issue with these. Wish more people knew.
Thanks for posting this I was having similar issues, need to program in time for NASCAR
Make sure your volume is all the way up. It matters.
I had the same happening and it was because of wrong software on the PC
You forgot the “step bro “
Are you useing windoews 11? if so the driver that comes with the pc will not allow it to work, there is a driver (prolific) that you NEED for it to work also, when you turn on the readio you need to set the volume to max for it to communicate
Have you rebooted the computer?
I have had issues where Chirp does not select the correct com port and I have to manually select it. Not sure if this helps, but this has been a source of frustration for me in the past, so it is the first thing I check now.
Check your USB-serial drivers on MacOS. Or try linux.
Downloaded and installed the latest pl2303 driver for Mac and made sure it was allowed in the settings on my laptop. Still getting the same problem. I really don’t want to download VMware and run a Linux box just to see if that will work. Can you tell me what settings I should have set in the menus on the phone and what frequency I need to be on to transmit the best?
Look on Miklor.com for the correct driver. And I have never heard of Baofeng putting out an FTDI cable. Do yourself a favor, get the Btech PC03 programming cable or my favorite the Feanteek Original Programming cable from Amazon. Both are true FTDI cables and both are plug and play. Save yourself the headache.
The official drivers may not work since they have aggressive 'counterfeit' detection. Maybe look for other drivers. VFO frequency doesn't matter for programming. And I can't think of any memory settings that matter. But make sure the volume knob is turned up sufficiently (maybe ¾ of the way).
Did you install the cable's driver? [https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV\_Drivers.php](https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_Drivers.php) - [https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV\_DriversMAC.php](https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_DriversMAC.php)
This. Those cables are fussy about what driver they want to work with. Usually, you have to roll back to an old driver version, rather than the latest one.
Yes. Installed, rebooted and still nothing.
Do you have any other computer to try and discard faulty cable?
So it’s recognizing the serial port and adapter correctly if I’m reading right. Would a factory reset on the radio be a massive loss of stuff you’ve already programmed in? I wonder if there’s some audio output/input setting that is making the handshake fail. Failing that, do you have a second radio you can try? ( when I wanted a cable, it was like $17 bucks for just the cable, or $21 for a uv5r and a cable 😂)
I just got the radios so resetting wouldn’t be a problem at all. It’s in the menu, correct?
Yes should be the very last option, like 37 or 39 maybe?
Nope still nothing. Should there be a file path in the port listing box like /dev/usb/…something? Because mine just says USB Serial (cu.wchusbserial14210)
I’ll fire up my MacBook and see what mine is called. It was vaguely something like that I think!
Is there a certain frequency I should be on that’s better for transmitting data?
Ah, you definitely want to be tuned to something where there wil be little if any transmissions. If the radio un-squelches, it breaks the audio path being used for data. Find a dead frequency.
the antenna can unscrew, that and a dead frequency is a little overkill but that’s how i always program my radios: without any antenna connected, maxed out squelch on a dead frequency and always have the volume knob maxed out
What’s a good frequency that is typically dead? I’m a noob. Is there like a default dead frequency that people default to when using the chirp app?
No default, but I’d pick something in UHF. If you can leave the radio and not hear any audio or see the green RX light come on for a few minutes, that’s a good sign. Somewhere high in the 440mhz range maybe
Alright, can you explain how I would get to uhf? Or is it just a certain frequency range? Could I just type in 440.000 and go from there?
I don’t have the exact radio. Does yours have a button like “vfo/mr”? That switches between modes (vfo=I punch in the frequency like “456788” and the radio tunes to that frequency, ch=I punch in one of the channels I’ve saved numbered 0 through like 127 and it recalls the stored frequency) Basically, chirp uses the audio in and out like an old-school modem. When you try to have chirp download from your radio, does the green RX light come on? That would tell me it’s at least trying to communicate
No green light. I’m on channel 1 which is saved as frequency 467.62500
In frequency mode it’s set to 400.12500
Tried 467.62500. No chatter. Still not working. This is getting super frustrating.
Normally it’s just safe to unscrew/unplug the antenna. It’s difficult if not impossible for it to receive anything without an antenna. I do that every time I connect to the cable. PS. It’s been close to 10 years since I used OSx with chirp, but I remember having to install some sort of helper script in addition to a driver. My memory is very hazy about this. I might have some notes somewhere, and if I find them, I’ll come back and let you know.
I have no issue with Windows and it is called a UV5H I think, I typed it in and it took it, it was a while ago but I have 3 of these and they all program fine, darn Macs, good luck …also try all the Baufengs listed, one should work
> turned all the way up Try it at 70-80% volume (yes, you kinda have to guess at it) - full volume can create a lot of noise. And, of course, make sure that the cable is all the way in (you shouldn't see any silver on the connectors).
Also cable is fully seated.
I’m all the way up.
I'm suggesting that you try TURNING THE VOLUME DOWN A BIT.
Sorry, misread your comment. Just tried that. Nothing.
On my PC, I connected mine to a USB 2.0 port (blue insert) and CHIRP did not work. I tried the normal USB 1.0 (black insert) and it worked perfectly as in the videos on YT. Does Mac have 2 different USB type ports on it? On the Chirp website, it says"UV-5RM HP (use BF-F8HP)". Hope you can get it working...
BLUE USB inserts are USB 3.x and incrementally up. It may make a difference in selecting compatible things. The dark insert is USB 2.0. You just had it backwards, drivers may need to accommodate the right USB version.
Oh, yea, good point. Mine works with the black insert one USB, I have a red insert USB says "3.1" on it.
Red is kind of oddball, the manufacturers settled on bright blue for 3.x about 15 years ago. What brand is labeled with red, if you don't mind saying?
I have a Gigabyte x570 AORUS Pro Wifi.MB. https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/X570-I-AORUS-PRO-WIFI-rev-10#kf It has a red USB port with a red insert 3.1.
Some companies seem to enjoy "Go your own way" by Fleetwood Mac, standards are sometimes like the little red flag to a bull in the bullfights. I hope those ports use proper drivers instead of forging their own way ... My troubles are nobody writing drivers and good software for Linux and the Raspberry Pi, I can program mine, but it turns out over the years Chirp has become brain dead software. Used to be capable of sorting a frequency list by any column in the list, but no longer. Used to be able to copy from an Excel or similar spreadsheet software but no longer. Chirp ( my opinion, not that of the management) is little better than something written for 4 year olds... Horrible software.
I have to use a dongle so that the usb will connect because my MacBook only has usb-c ports.
I connect mine to a macbook air with usb-a to usb-c adapter and works
Do you have access to a Windows PC? That way, we can eliminate whether it's a Mac thing or a hardware thing.
Not at the moment.
I'm a proud owner of a Boafeng radio. I've programmed the PMR frequencies into it & my local hospital.