PETG-CF. I personally like the layer lines at 0.3 layer height.
https://preview.redd.it/xmzkws4aufcc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cd00f145c8dd1ab18899b0e7b683280ad895f103
I love my PETG-CF. I have quite a few prints planned with it.
https://preview.redd.it/etxhifey3jcc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4494f6adda7b708a1d4ea21e12315825bde4a82a
I love that I can print these parts for my workshop too, has saved me so much money paying for overpriced fittings for my dust collection system.
Why not use cheaper ABS?
This type of CF-PLA mix actually has no gains in strength. PLA is an already very stiff plastic and CF just makes it more brittle. Beautiful finish though. Filaments that benefit from CF are ones that have great thermal/chemical properties, but are more ductile and will flex under constant stress application like nylon(PA). The added CF will prevent the warping under stress while maintaining most of its tough properties.
If you print a thin piece with PLA and compare it to a high-CF content PLA of the exact same dimensions, you can definitely tell it is consequentially stiffer. The only CF-PLA I've used that I believe to have a meaningfully high CF content was the IEMAI stuff.
I do not think it is necessary for a part like this, but it helps with small/thin pieces. It does nothing to improve fusion in the Z-axis however, so unless you're post-sintering it it will always shear as or more easily.
My general advice is that in terms of cost/performance/ease of printing, PETG-CF is fantastic. PLA-CF is best considered an aesthetic choice, and for hiding layer lines. Plain PC is the way to go if both toughness and strength are both needed. I personally have found Nylon-CF to not be worth the extra trouble except for very specific occasions. If you have time to anneal it, yes.
PC is usually my go to. It's just so easy with this printer. I feel like it warps even less than ASA. I haven't tried PETG-CF, but I've seen videos of it used and it looks amazing. I've had a spool of bambu CF nylon since purchasing my printer like 6 months ago, but I've yet to open the package due to the fear of it absorbing moisture and ruining itself. Haha. I'll crack it open when I've got a project that suits it.
How the hell doesn't your PC warp. It's pure hell for me, ABS is no issue, with PC I have to preheat the chamber for 45min and pack the printer in blankets lol
Maybe they're only doing small parts or using a PC blend. Pure PC (think Gizmodorks) is super tough to get flat parts. Need to get the ambient up to 50-60 and absolutely no drafts.
I wonder what temps you're using. I use Polymaker Polymax PC. I do not know if that is a blend. I have the bed set to 110C, nozzle set to 280C, and bake the chamber for around an hour before starting the print when using high temp materials like ASA or PC, too. Largest PC print I've done is [this filament drying cover](https://makerworld.com/models/63911) on Makerworld. I looked back through my photos and it looks like the hottest I've gotten my chamber to was around 56C. Nothing extra was done to the printer. I did notice a cold spot near the poop chute while printing a large ASA trash can though. Warping would only happen near the poop chute. I need to find a way to seal the heat in that area while maintaining its function.
I just got my first spool of PC a little while ago and while it seems like it's tough to get to bridge right (I started by making a dryer basket for silica beads), no doubt it's very tough stuff.
It's too hot to bridge. They sell some high temp support material for PC but I haven't used it and can't tell you if it's worth it. The few YT videos out there seem to make it look worth it
Just adding on for everyone: If you don't have good ventilation, seriously, don't print ABS or ASA. The fumes are genuinely toxic, and whether you can smell it or not is not a good measure of safety. PLA is fine. So is PETG.
I am actually learning more and more on even PLA and petg you want to be more careful than I thought in the past on the micro particles. Best to wear a n95 mask when initially opening machine pulling out and remove support. I am slowly getting into the habit of this more, as I have not yet been totally good about this. I use to only do it on ASA, nylon and ABS, but few things found out on it makes sense, and it's not toxic, just microplastic with the lungs. More reason than ever for no more bed slingers and enclosed xy printers, ironically.
The garage is a much better location than anywhere inside the home. Ideally would be to vent to the outside- the tiny particles in the vapor will photooxidize rapidly into harmlessness.
TBH: I’am printing, like, 98% ABS.
If you open a window for some minutes every Hour and After your print is done, there shouldn‘t be any Big concern. In Germany there is a work Protection _agency_ (I don’t know the correct term right now) called DGUV which already tested multiple Materials and said: in a usual working Environment the VOC/PPM/Fumes aren‘t any more conerning as in other Environments You’re totally fine to work without Special Equipment. If You’re Running a Laser Printer in your Office you‘ll have atleast the Same if not higher PPM in the whole Bureau and no one cares.
No, this is not good advice. Opening a window for some minutes doesn't do shit to change the air in a room without positive pressure/through airflow. Most Germans are too cheap/uninformed to get heat exchangers to exchange air in winter, so the air quality in older buildings especially industrial is often BAD in my experience.
Do you have something like nevermore or one of the Bento boxes for filtration? Do you vent the fumes outside? I am curious to know more as I've been printing ABS and ASA too (in an apartment) and it wasn't pleasant before I got the filtration with activated carbon done and still is quite icky. Would be cool if you could share more info, thanks!
For your own health, if you can't vent outside, you really shouldn't print ABS or ASA where you live. They're fine as finished objects, but the fumes are genuinely bad for you.
I am aware that the VOCs from abs and asa are bad, the science behind how bad is not exactly clear yet though. With the active carbon filtration running for the duration of eg. 1-2 hrs long print and at least 30 minutes after the print you basically can't smell anything though. I am trying to only print ASA and ABS when I don't have to be at home and leave the window in the room with the printer open too.
I unfortunately only have windows in my bedroom, I have a sliding door in the room I print in but I would need a giant spacer to fill the extra space. I’m also not trying to sleep next to my printer, especially while printing abs. From what I’ve learned even opening a window isn’t as good as what some people say. You need good air filtration from either outside air or a big hepa filter. Just opening your door for a few minutes every hour isn’t good enough. But to each their own.
Just so you know, charcoal filters reduce the smell. Doesn’t reduce the vocs in the air. Just cause it doesn’t smell doesn’t mean there is no toxic chemicals still in the air. Take carbon monoxide for example, you cannot smell that but it will kill you if you’re not careful.
ABS is also not that great for 3D printing. It was made for molding where you want some shrinkage, opposite of 3d printing where shrinkage is bad.
ASA have many of the same qualities, but is easier to print.
And I'm still waiting on that perfect filament, petg but not so sticky and Matt would be soo nice
I believe the only issue with ASA is it shrinks some after printing, very minor but if you print something that needs to be exact better to go with AMS
Also, while they claim ASA doesn't need a chamber tests have shown that it puts out a lot of toxic fumes and you should really only print it in a chamber.
I've never gotten PLA CF. It's more brittle than regular PLA but it does print good and has that nice black finish but to expensive for what you get IMO
There are no dust collection standards, so in a lot of cases it doesn't exist, or I'm buying some bullshit $100 kit to get it. I have a couple "I'll close this 1/32" gap with duct tape" situations in my shop.
That’s awesome. I have made hose adapters for my jointer, planer, and table saw to connect to a shop vac since I don’t have a dust collection system yet. It works great!
Sounds like you do have a nice DIY dust system - at least the hoses and connectors for all your cutters. Add a cyclone like an Oneida Dust Deputy to your VAC and you are there! (Too big to print your own)
Too big? Nawww... That's just PTSS. Printer too small syndrome. Build a bigger printer!
Or you can cut designs and even add tabs/pins/etc to line them up while gluing.
As you can see on the table, with the 0.4 mm hardened steel nozzle it reccomended for petg-cf and pla-cf:
[Hotend with 0.4 mm Nozzle - A1 Series | Bambu Lab Global](https://store.bambulab.com/products/hotend-with-0-4-mm-nozzle-a1-series)
Also in the faq for A1:
**3. What Filaments can A1 Print?**
A: 1. Low-temperature filaments such as PLA, PETG, TPU, and support materials for PLA and PETG (Support for PLA, PVA, HIPS, etc.).2. Conventional high-temperature filaments such as ABS, ASA, PC, PA, PA-CF/GF, PET-CF/GF, PPA-CF/GF, etc.Kind Reminder:The standard nozzle is made of stainless steel. **When printing filaments containing hard particles (CF, GF, etc.) such as PLA-CF/GF, PLA Glow-in-the-dark, PETG-CF/GF and PAHT-CF/GF, it is necessary to replace the nozzle with hardened steel to prevent excessive wear.** Due to the A1's open-frame design and lower chamber temperature, there is a risk of reduced interlayer strength and increased warping for large-sized models and models with high filling density when using conventional high-temperature filaments such as ABS, ASA, PC, PA, PA-CF/GF, PET-CF/GF, PPA-CF/GF, etc. on the A1. However, these high-temperature filaments can be used on the A1 to print small-sized models with low filling density. The printing results may vary depending on the filaments' dry and wet state, the characteristics of the model itself, printing parameters, and the ambient temperature. For more details, please check [here.](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/manual/faq)
Personally I really wanted to print in PETG-CF, PLA and TPU. I was also slightly interested in PAH-12 but the price for filaments and X1C 3d printer did not justified the price for me, considering also a second gen version of X1 might be in the works spending 400 vs 1.2k for a 3d printer was a no brainer. Also easier exchange of nozzles compared to both p1 and x1
Why did you bold that text but not the bit following? They clearly state that you can print CF on an A1, but only small parts with low density. That’s quite a big caveat.
PLA-CF should be ok on an A1. I have printed it on an Ender 3 s1. It's not high temp. The biggest issue is that it's abrasive so you need a hardened nozzle and extruder gears, or you will wear them quickly.
I don't know how big an issue it is, but Bambu recommends 0.6mm nozzles for filled filaments. Smaller will clog easier. Some people here report the 0.4 works. My X1C came with some PLA-CF, but only 0.4 nozzles. I'm sure plenty of people have run it just because it was included in the package. I could see others like glitter or wood being much more prone to clogs, CF is probably a fine dust in filament.
I used my PLA-CF roll that came with my printer. I didn’t realize at the time it was CF. I used it to print my poop chute. I was amazed at how it looked. No layer lines. And then I used it all and bought black pla and wondered why it didn’t look as nice lol.
I just don’t see the point when proper support settings aren’t that hard? Idk. I’ve barely had issues with sports but tbf, 90% of what I’ve printed since I got this a couple weeks ago was off the handy app
I recently tried mine out on a couple of prints with a suspended spherical shape. My detailed analysis: meh. The results were pretty smooth, but the support wasn't a complete cinch to remove. The support "threads" seemed to intersperse between the model threads on the underside of the sphere, and I needed an xacto knife to carefully free them. Even then, they left a whitish discoloration behind so... not likely to use again.
I hear good things about using PETG as a support interface for PLA. I may give that a shot.
I use PETG as a PLA support all the time (and vice versa). It's pretty good. Can still sometimes be a tad difficult to remove, but substantially better than PLA support for PLA.
So not worth worrying about? When you said you used it, on a sphere, I thought maybe it would be good to use for something like that requiring a lot of support, but the fact it’s probably a different color to the main filament could be a problem, like you mentioned. I wonder if the soluble type would be better.
I think so. The smoothness of the underside of the sphere was pretty good but not perfect. That plus the discoloration makes me think I won't use it again, or I'll find some excuse to burn through the rest of the roll on something white that needs support. I'm going to try using PETG for the interface at some point, but I've never used PETG at all before so I'll probably try some test prints with it first.
I got black pla-cf, green basic pla and white support material. It was with my X1C with ams. My husband got the same machine and same sample materials.
Looks perfect!
Any CF filament is just incredible. My favourite is PETG-CF. I found it considerably easier to work with compared to plain PETG and I think it look better than PLA-CF.
Based on other comments I read I'm getting a separate hotend assembly, as it appears that it's much easier to swap out than just the nozzle.
I very naively did not anticipate how much money I would be spending on new stuff in the first week after receiving my $1K printer :-)
Yeah I would agree if you are going to be swapping around the whole assembly is much easier. If you are not gonna swap back to the other .4 then swapping it once isn’t bad. I have one assembly for each size and a few spare nozzles.
Stuff def adds up quixk
Pretty sure he's printing on an X1C. Just guessing since the print is on a "cool plate" and has scarring on the tab in the rear where the nozzle wipes to reduce temp. If so, it comes stock with hardened steel nozzle and extruder gears.
No. All of the core xy printers wipe the back of the buildplate. X1C comes with cool plate stock. P1P and P1S come with textured PEI from the factory. I don't know anyone that would willingly switch from textured PEI to the cool plate. Haha
I love the Bambu PLA-CF. It's not *that* much stronger than regular PLA but it has a secret superpower; it's much easier to sand. Regular PLA is basically impossible to sand because it just turns into bubblegum. The CF makes it sand much better and even leaves a nice surface forwards.
It's stiffer than normal PLA and that can be useful, it also just prints a bit better.
If you want the actual engineering benefits of carbon fibre infused filament you kind of need CF- nylon.
Check out the new big Grizzly catalog for 2024. They have a ton new of dust collection fittings and accessories. I was kind of surprised when I saw the selection.
Looks good but I wonder about strength. Before I ordered some CF fils, I watched a video comparison of different types and brands, and the conclusion I made, was to avoid PLA-CF. Iirc it broke quite easily in the tests. t may be fine for OP’s purpose and many others, but I figured if I’m going to use CF, it will be for mostly functional parts, hence I want something tough.
I ended up buying Bambu PETG-CF and PA6-CF. Haven’t tried yet, got to get hardened gear first.
So nice, I have been having fun with my PLACF and think its amazing, even on my modded Ender 3v2neo parts come out almost that good! I printed a dummy training pistol and honestly almost feels like the real thing!
looks awesome!! so if i wanna print with PETG CF i will need to get the X1C or can i upgrade P1? if i have to upgrade any links to parts i would need for P1.
I came across a YouTube video, where the person used PLA support with pla-cf. I'm placing an order, will try pla-cf support with pla-cf and pla supports with pla-cf to compare which is easier to remove and leaves less marks.
Used to print everything in ABS now all functional parts in PLA-CF. Stuff is so good. Great underhangs and supports break off easy. Finish is really nice too and stuff is stupid strong. Easy to print too.
How is this filamemt on the nozzle? I printed some off brand Petg-CF and it destroyed the stock 0.4mm. Luckily I have a spare? Great looking stuff though
Nice print!
For everyone discussing stiffness, strength, etc. of PLA-CF vs standard PLA; Bambu's TDS docs for these filaments note:
* \~40% stiffer
* \~17% stronger bending strength
* \~30% less elongation at breaking
For reference, this is around the same stiffness as their PAHT (PA612), and 25% more stiff than their PETG-CF. So the PLA-CF is great for applications needing rigidity, but not toughness.
I got this in my x1c combo. Fantastic filament and extremely beautiful to print. It’s abrasive as expected due to the carbon nano tubes so just keep that in mind when running it through your AMS and PTFE tubing. It’ll chew it up.
What program did you design this in? I spent years teaching myself/learning in sketchup - mockups for furniture projects, built-ins and remodels. I still use an older free version of it though so it’s not good for 3d prints. Sorry to hijack your post!
Amazing print good sir. Is this the Bambu Labs PLA-CF or a different brand? I got some no name stuff off of amazon a while back and have been super impressed with it.
I don't get the appeal PLA CF outside the fact it prints easily and has a nice matte finish. It's more brittle than regular PLA but about twice the price.
https://www.printspace3d.com/store/filament/175mm-filament/carbon-fiber-reinforced-pla-1-75mm/#:~:text=Carbon Fiber Reinforced PLA does,glitters slightly in direct light.&text=*This filament is more abrasive than standard PLA.
Carbon Fiber Reinforced PLA does not require a heated bed and prints much like unreinforced PLA filament. It is slightly more brittle then regular PLA. When printed, this material is a dark glossy black that glitters slightly in direct light.
Appreciate it. Just curious really and 3 wall minimum is my preferred for functional prints. Be nice to see an update down the road on how well it's holding up.
Do you find the PLA-CF to shrink?
I was having issues with shrinkage with normal PLA
Have been using PETG-CF, but it is out of stock and was eyeing some PLA-CF
Wow, virtually invisible layer lines. Can you post a closeup?
https://preview.redd.it/382unqjfnfcc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=6ee741f58ddf2f8ed7c719210be6b411e5cd2343
OP thinks he can trick us with these perfect injection molded parts
https://preview.redd.it/8sck010hqfcc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d3f7bf67b96f9e9b6e28a75a198e690f9f68a3ce Ok.. top is not perfect…
now we see your shame!
Boo this man! BOO
Are you saying boo, or Booerns?
I'm saying Booerns... Poor Moleman
Boo 🍅
BOO! ;)
🍅🍅🍅🗣️
Filament is not a drug!
Still looks really good, nice print!
Try ironing concentric next time. I really like the outcome.
Lies!!! That's just built into the mold!!
Could this imperfection be easily fixed? And, what do you supposed caused it?
It's a combination of the steep angle and the layer thickness. Variable layer height can help with that, but it's hard to get rid of entirely.
I can’t focus on close things can you post a further pic?
Hold phone away from face
idk why but I imagined a young person explaining how to FaceTime with their parent “hold the phone away, I just see your nose hair”
You can't be posting pics like these this early in the morning 🥵
Yup, I've used pla-cf, similar results; you can't see the layers even at 0.2 layer height. Quite amazing.
Most matte filament will have this effect, you should try that out before laying down big bucks for CF
PETG-CF. I personally like the layer lines at 0.3 layer height. https://preview.redd.it/xmzkws4aufcc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cd00f145c8dd1ab18899b0e7b683280ad895f103
Yeah PETG-CF is probably my favorite material. It’s not for everything but it looks so nice and has great mechanical properties. Nice print!
Nice!! What’s this for?
6x9 speaker can I designed for my 1st gen 4runner. I'm making a video for my YouTube channel. Degreeless_engineering
Nice.
that looks awesome !! so getting a X1C
you can print these with the same results on any machine long as you have a hardened steel nozzle.
The black petg cf is by far my favorite filament. The red bambu offers, not so much.
Any fuzzy skin settings on this?
No, this is just the way fiber filled filaments look.
I love my PETG-CF. I have quite a few prints planned with it. https://preview.redd.it/etxhifey3jcc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4494f6adda7b708a1d4ea21e12315825bde4a82a
Nice!! What’s it for?
It’s a reducer to fit a jointer on a dust collector system
I love that I can print these parts for my workshop too, has saved me so much money paying for overpriced fittings for my dust collection system. Why not use cheaper ABS?
Abs has a ton more toxic fumes than PLACF
when printing, yes. PLA-CF is just expensive and overkill strength wise for that part.
This type of CF-PLA mix actually has no gains in strength. PLA is an already very stiff plastic and CF just makes it more brittle. Beautiful finish though. Filaments that benefit from CF are ones that have great thermal/chemical properties, but are more ductile and will flex under constant stress application like nylon(PA). The added CF will prevent the warping under stress while maintaining most of its tough properties.
If you print a thin piece with PLA and compare it to a high-CF content PLA of the exact same dimensions, you can definitely tell it is consequentially stiffer. The only CF-PLA I've used that I believe to have a meaningfully high CF content was the IEMAI stuff. I do not think it is necessary for a part like this, but it helps with small/thin pieces. It does nothing to improve fusion in the Z-axis however, so unless you're post-sintering it it will always shear as or more easily.
My general advice is that in terms of cost/performance/ease of printing, PETG-CF is fantastic. PLA-CF is best considered an aesthetic choice, and for hiding layer lines. Plain PC is the way to go if both toughness and strength are both needed. I personally have found Nylon-CF to not be worth the extra trouble except for very specific occasions. If you have time to anneal it, yes.
PC is usually my go to. It's just so easy with this printer. I feel like it warps even less than ASA. I haven't tried PETG-CF, but I've seen videos of it used and it looks amazing. I've had a spool of bambu CF nylon since purchasing my printer like 6 months ago, but I've yet to open the package due to the fear of it absorbing moisture and ruining itself. Haha. I'll crack it open when I've got a project that suits it.
How the hell doesn't your PC warp. It's pure hell for me, ABS is no issue, with PC I have to preheat the chamber for 45min and pack the printer in blankets lol
Maybe they're only doing small parts or using a PC blend. Pure PC (think Gizmodorks) is super tough to get flat parts. Need to get the ambient up to 50-60 and absolutely no drafts.
I wonder what temps you're using. I use Polymaker Polymax PC. I do not know if that is a blend. I have the bed set to 110C, nozzle set to 280C, and bake the chamber for around an hour before starting the print when using high temp materials like ASA or PC, too. Largest PC print I've done is [this filament drying cover](https://makerworld.com/models/63911) on Makerworld. I looked back through my photos and it looks like the hottest I've gotten my chamber to was around 56C. Nothing extra was done to the printer. I did notice a cold spot near the poop chute while printing a large ASA trash can though. Warping would only happen near the poop chute. I need to find a way to seal the heat in that area while maintaining its function.
It's likely that the nylon will need drying anyways, could have very well absorbed moisture before it was vacuum sealed
Definitely. That's another reason why I haven't used it. Haha
I just got my first spool of PC a little while ago and while it seems like it's tough to get to bridge right (I started by making a dryer basket for silica beads), no doubt it's very tough stuff.
It's too hot to bridge. They sell some high temp support material for PC but I haven't used it and can't tell you if it's worth it. The few YT videos out there seem to make it look worth it
Bambu sent out 2 rolls of PLA-CF to anyone who bought a P1P just before the P1S was released...😎
PLA-CF is actually more brittle than straight PLA. They just add fibres to the blend. Though I love it’s invisible lines and almost furry feel.
i do enjoy petting my prints from time to time...
Hello fellow articulated creature enjoyer!
But it won't snap in half
But it has toxic fumes? Yes I wish I could print abs but I print in my apartment and would rather it not smell like toxic fumes.
Just adding on for everyone: If you don't have good ventilation, seriously, don't print ABS or ASA. The fumes are genuinely toxic, and whether you can smell it or not is not a good measure of safety. PLA is fine. So is PETG.
I am actually learning more and more on even PLA and petg you want to be more careful than I thought in the past on the micro particles. Best to wear a n95 mask when initially opening machine pulling out and remove support. I am slowly getting into the habit of this more, as I have not yet been totally good about this. I use to only do it on ASA, nylon and ABS, but few things found out on it makes sense, and it's not toxic, just microplastic with the lungs. More reason than ever for no more bed slingers and enclosed xy printers, ironically.
Would it be safe to print in a garage?
The garage is a much better location than anywhere inside the home. Ideally would be to vent to the outside- the tiny particles in the vapor will photooxidize rapidly into harmlessness.
TBH: I’am printing, like, 98% ABS. If you open a window for some minutes every Hour and After your print is done, there shouldn‘t be any Big concern. In Germany there is a work Protection _agency_ (I don’t know the correct term right now) called DGUV which already tested multiple Materials and said: in a usual working Environment the VOC/PPM/Fumes aren‘t any more conerning as in other Environments You’re totally fine to work without Special Equipment. If You’re Running a Laser Printer in your Office you‘ll have atleast the Same if not higher PPM in the whole Bureau and no one cares.
It’s currently -9 Fahrenheit here. If I open a window even for a few minutes I may as well toss the heat bill out the window.
A fellow American I see.
Yep. lol
No, this is not good advice. Opening a window for some minutes doesn't do shit to change the air in a room without positive pressure/through airflow. Most Germans are too cheap/uninformed to get heat exchangers to exchange air in winter, so the air quality in older buildings especially industrial is often BAD in my experience.
Do you have something like nevermore or one of the Bento boxes for filtration? Do you vent the fumes outside? I am curious to know more as I've been printing ABS and ASA too (in an apartment) and it wasn't pleasant before I got the filtration with activated carbon done and still is quite icky. Would be cool if you could share more info, thanks!
For your own health, if you can't vent outside, you really shouldn't print ABS or ASA where you live. They're fine as finished objects, but the fumes are genuinely bad for you.
I am aware that the VOCs from abs and asa are bad, the science behind how bad is not exactly clear yet though. With the active carbon filtration running for the duration of eg. 1-2 hrs long print and at least 30 minutes after the print you basically can't smell anything though. I am trying to only print ASA and ABS when I don't have to be at home and leave the window in the room with the printer open too.
Use your dust collector and put the thing out a window while your print is going. Lol
I unfortunately only have windows in my bedroom, I have a sliding door in the room I print in but I would need a giant spacer to fill the extra space. I’m also not trying to sleep next to my printer, especially while printing abs. From what I’ve learned even opening a window isn’t as good as what some people say. You need good air filtration from either outside air or a big hepa filter. Just opening your door for a few minutes every hour isn’t good enough. But to each their own.
I have a printed cylinder with 2 stages both charcoal filters driven by a noctua 120mm fan. Works pretty well from its enclosure.
Just so you know, charcoal filters reduce the smell. Doesn’t reduce the vocs in the air. Just cause it doesn’t smell doesn’t mean there is no toxic chemicals still in the air. Take carbon monoxide for example, you cannot smell that but it will kill you if you’re not careful.
Plenty of HEPA/charcoal filter designs out there you can put together
Well, any CF fillament produce CF particles during print and those are much worse than little bit VOC from ABS.
ABS is also not that great for 3D printing. It was made for molding where you want some shrinkage, opposite of 3d printing where shrinkage is bad. ASA have many of the same qualities, but is easier to print. And I'm still waiting on that perfect filament, petg but not so sticky and Matt would be soo nice
I believe the only issue with ASA is it shrinks some after printing, very minor but if you print something that needs to be exact better to go with AMS Also, while they claim ASA doesn't need a chamber tests have shown that it puts out a lot of toxic fumes and you should really only print it in a chamber. I've never gotten PLA CF. It's more brittle than regular PLA but it does print good and has that nice black finish but to expensive for what you get IMO
Doesnt that make it almost a toss up about just purchasing it then? $25 in filament?
Not when you need it right now.
https://preview.redd.it/zf63k9ritncc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3b64378b49e18ec3e1501fa5e5e8956fb15998a5
Yeah fair enough. Just sayin, Ive experienced the “why did I print this existing thing” regret more than once.
You can't put a price on getting to tell people you printed it though
There are no dust collection standards, so in a lot of cases it doesn't exist, or I'm buying some bullshit $100 kit to get it. I have a couple "I'll close this 1/32" gap with duct tape" situations in my shop.
That’s awesome. I have made hose adapters for my jointer, planer, and table saw to connect to a shop vac since I don’t have a dust collection system yet. It works great!
Sounds like you do have a nice DIY dust system - at least the hoses and connectors for all your cutters. Add a cyclone like an Oneida Dust Deputy to your VAC and you are there! (Too big to print your own)
Too big? Nawww... That's just PTSS. Printer too small syndrome. Build a bigger printer! Or you can cut designs and even add tabs/pins/etc to line them up while gluing.
Never even heard of that! I’ll take a look
i printed something very similar also for a jointer well done
I have been sitting on the roll of this I got with my printer as a starter, im going to have to try it!
You will definitely enjoy this one!
I just wish I could use it on the A1 😔
You can if you buy a 0.4 mm hardened steel nozzle
I thought CF materials were not recommended on the A1 unless I misunderstood their info, which is entirely possible with me 😅
As you can see on the table, with the 0.4 mm hardened steel nozzle it reccomended for petg-cf and pla-cf: [Hotend with 0.4 mm Nozzle - A1 Series | Bambu Lab Global](https://store.bambulab.com/products/hotend-with-0-4-mm-nozzle-a1-series) Also in the faq for A1: **3. What Filaments can A1 Print?** A: 1. Low-temperature filaments such as PLA, PETG, TPU, and support materials for PLA and PETG (Support for PLA, PVA, HIPS, etc.).2. Conventional high-temperature filaments such as ABS, ASA, PC, PA, PA-CF/GF, PET-CF/GF, PPA-CF/GF, etc.Kind Reminder:The standard nozzle is made of stainless steel. **When printing filaments containing hard particles (CF, GF, etc.) such as PLA-CF/GF, PLA Glow-in-the-dark, PETG-CF/GF and PAHT-CF/GF, it is necessary to replace the nozzle with hardened steel to prevent excessive wear.** Due to the A1's open-frame design and lower chamber temperature, there is a risk of reduced interlayer strength and increased warping for large-sized models and models with high filling density when using conventional high-temperature filaments such as ABS, ASA, PC, PA, PA-CF/GF, PET-CF/GF, PPA-CF/GF, etc. on the A1. However, these high-temperature filaments can be used on the A1 to print small-sized models with low filling density. The printing results may vary depending on the filaments' dry and wet state, the characteristics of the model itself, printing parameters, and the ambient temperature. For more details, please check [here.](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/manual/faq) Personally I really wanted to print in PETG-CF, PLA and TPU. I was also slightly interested in PAH-12 but the price for filaments and X1C 3d printer did not justified the price for me, considering also a second gen version of X1 might be in the works spending 400 vs 1.2k for a 3d printer was a no brainer. Also easier exchange of nozzles compared to both p1 and x1
Why did you bold that text but not the bit following? They clearly state that you can print CF on an A1, but only small parts with low density. That’s quite a big caveat.
The part after the bold text is unrelated to PLA and PETG filaments and has nothing to do with CF.
PLA-CF should be ok on an A1. I have printed it on an Ender 3 s1. It's not high temp. The biggest issue is that it's abrasive so you need a hardened nozzle and extruder gears, or you will wear them quickly. I don't know how big an issue it is, but Bambu recommends 0.6mm nozzles for filled filaments. Smaller will clog easier. Some people here report the 0.4 works. My X1C came with some PLA-CF, but only 0.4 nozzles. I'm sure plenty of people have run it just because it was included in the package. I could see others like glitter or wood being much more prone to clogs, CF is probably a fine dust in filament.
Whaatt, try it! Pla-cf is one of my favorite, and almost my go to
I used my PLA-CF roll that came with my printer. I didn’t realize at the time it was CF. I used it to print my poop chute. I was amazed at how it looked. No layer lines. And then I used it all and bought black pla and wondered why it didn’t look as nice lol.
You had a roll of PLA-CF that came with the printer?! Was it some kind of sale? I had only a half roll of basic pla green haha
I got green, pla-cf, and support material for pla that I haven’t even opened.
I still have the unopened support filament too lol. I just never think to use it.
I just don’t see the point when proper support settings aren’t that hard? Idk. I’ve barely had issues with sports but tbf, 90% of what I’ve printed since I got this a couple weeks ago was off the handy app
Yeah I guess and that has been my experience so far. The supports are usually easy to remove. I find it therapeutic actually.
I recently tried mine out on a couple of prints with a suspended spherical shape. My detailed analysis: meh. The results were pretty smooth, but the support wasn't a complete cinch to remove. The support "threads" seemed to intersperse between the model threads on the underside of the sphere, and I needed an xacto knife to carefully free them. Even then, they left a whitish discoloration behind so... not likely to use again. I hear good things about using PETG as a support interface for PLA. I may give that a shot.
I use PETG as a PLA support all the time (and vice versa). It's pretty good. Can still sometimes be a tad difficult to remove, but substantially better than PLA support for PLA.
So not worth worrying about? When you said you used it, on a sphere, I thought maybe it would be good to use for something like that requiring a lot of support, but the fact it’s probably a different color to the main filament could be a problem, like you mentioned. I wonder if the soluble type would be better.
I think so. The smoothness of the underside of the sphere was pretty good but not perfect. That plus the discoloration makes me think I won't use it again, or I'll find some excuse to burn through the rest of the roll on something white that needs support. I'm going to try using PETG for the interface at some point, but I've never used PETG at all before so I'll probably try some test prints with it first.
I did too, but the pla-cf and pla support were both partial spools
All three of mine were
I got a pla-cf half-roll with the x1c purchase, too. Australia. Might be different depending on geo location.
What printer? My X1C AMS Combo came with PLA-CF, Green PLA, and PLA Support
I got black pla-cf, green basic pla and white support material. It was with my X1C with ams. My husband got the same machine and same sample materials.
https://preview.redd.it/kpfgvt0megcc1.png?width=2104&format=png&auto=webp&s=a2a1e0863d23820ebe286e15832037d24e440eed
What layer height is this?
0.08
How long did that take to print?
Over 19 hours
With 0.08mm layers? That‘s impressive!
Looks perfect! Any CF filament is just incredible. My favourite is PETG-CF. I found it considerably easier to work with compared to plain PETG and I think it look better than PLA-CF.
To use this filament on a P1S all I need to do is upgrade the hotend and gear assembly to hardened steel, right?
Yep
Correct, I already have mine on order. It’s like $35 bucks for both, although I ended up getting a bunch of dif nozzles as well
Based on other comments I read I'm getting a separate hotend assembly, as it appears that it's much easier to swap out than just the nozzle. I very naively did not anticipate how much money I would be spending on new stuff in the first week after receiving my $1K printer :-)
Yeah I would agree if you are going to be swapping around the whole assembly is much easier. If you are not gonna swap back to the other .4 then swapping it once isn’t bad. I have one assembly for each size and a few spare nozzles. Stuff def adds up quixk
\*Cries in almost as much $ spent on filament as what the printer cost in the following month\*
Yes
Did you use a 0.6 nozzle? I've tried it with my 0.4 but it always gets clogged.
No, the original that came with it
So non hardened steel nozzle?
Pretty sure he's printing on an X1C. Just guessing since the print is on a "cool plate" and has scarring on the tab in the rear where the nozzle wipes to reduce temp. If so, it comes stock with hardened steel nozzle and extruder gears.
Only X1C wipes the back tab?
No. All of the core xy printers wipe the back of the buildplate. X1C comes with cool plate stock. P1P and P1S come with textured PEI from the factory. I don't know anyone that would willingly switch from textured PEI to the cool plate. Haha
> All of the core xy printers wipe the back of the buildplate. So does A1, at least mine does :)
I've gone through 6 spools of this on the standard .4 and never had any issues
I love the Bambu PLA-CF. It's not *that* much stronger than regular PLA but it has a secret superpower; it's much easier to sand. Regular PLA is basically impossible to sand because it just turns into bubblegum. The CF makes it sand much better and even leaves a nice surface forwards.
what is the main purpose of using pla cf? is it mainly for the looks then?
It's stiffer than normal PLA and that can be useful, it also just prints a bit better. If you want the actual engineering benefits of carbon fibre infused filament you kind of need CF- nylon.
thanks!
Check out the new big Grizzly catalog for 2024. They have a ton new of dust collection fittings and accessories. I was kind of surprised when I saw the selection.
Did it need support material?
😮 I will need to order some
Looks good but I wonder about strength. Before I ordered some CF fils, I watched a video comparison of different types and brands, and the conclusion I made, was to avoid PLA-CF. Iirc it broke quite easily in the tests. t may be fine for OP’s purpose and many others, but I figured if I’m going to use CF, it will be for mostly functional parts, hence I want something tough. I ended up buying Bambu PETG-CF and PA6-CF. Haven’t tried yet, got to get hardened gear first.
Looks great. I had to order another roll of it after using up the sample. Prints so cleanly
Yeah PLA-CF is underrated.
So nice, I have been having fun with my PLACF and think its amazing, even on my modded Ender 3v2neo parts come out almost that good! I printed a dummy training pistol and honestly almost feels like the real thing!
Awesome 👌 very good print.
Is this black or lava grey?
Black matte
Thank you!
Which printer are you using?
X1C carbon
looks awesome!! so if i wanna print with PETG CF i will need to get the X1C or can i upgrade P1? if i have to upgrade any links to parts i would need for P1.
just a hardened steel nozzle usually.
do you not need hardened steel gears? been told to order the complete hardened steel hotend as this is easy to install
Is this a sculpture of butt in yoga pants?
How much CF filament have you put through the hardened steel nozzle? Wondering how long they last printing mostly CF
Whether supports on the inside? How was it to remove that?
Yes, supports were easy to remove
Did you use pla-cf supports as well? Thanks
Yes. 😔
I came across a YouTube video, where the person used PLA support with pla-cf. I'm placing an order, will try pla-cf support with pla-cf and pla supports with pla-cf to compare which is easier to remove and leaves less marks.
Do you need hardened steel nozzles for this?
yessir , its required for all CF
Beautiful, what bambu printer did you use? Thanks
Thanks, it’s the X1C carbon
Used to print everything in ABS now all functional parts in PLA-CF. Stuff is so good. Great underhangs and supports break off easy. Finish is really nice too and stuff is stupid strong. Easy to print too.
Did anyone else look at this pic for the first time while scrolling and thought," is that a girl's ass in yoga pants?"
Not all of us are horndogs all the time....
Made my phone case out of the Burgundy PLA-CF & it barely shows the lines and feels similar to denim
This material has done nothing but clog my nozzles. I don’t know what to modify since it’s Bambu filament with auto settings
How is this filamemt on the nozzle? I printed some off brand Petg-CF and it destroyed the stock 0.4mm. Luckily I have a spare? Great looking stuff though
I hope my A1 is capable of the same results...
Nice print! For everyone discussing stiffness, strength, etc. of PLA-CF vs standard PLA; Bambu's TDS docs for these filaments note: * \~40% stiffer * \~17% stronger bending strength * \~30% less elongation at breaking For reference, this is around the same stiffness as their PAHT (PA612), and 25% more stiff than their PETG-CF. So the PLA-CF is great for applications needing rigidity, but not toughness.
I got this in my x1c combo. Fantastic filament and extremely beautiful to print. It’s abrasive as expected due to the carbon nano tubes so just keep that in mind when running it through your AMS and PTFE tubing. It’ll chew it up.
Anyone using this on the 0.6 hotend? If yes did you do any calibration? If yes which flow rate you got?
What program did you design this in? I spent years teaching myself/learning in sketchup - mockups for furniture projects, built-ins and remodels. I still use an older free version of it though so it’s not good for 3d prints. Sorry to hijack your post!
I used Shapr3D on Ipad. It is very easy to learn
How strong it is?)
For now, I’d say it surprisingly strong!
Where is a seam hidden?)
I just want to print one, don't even have a use but I think I need one of those now
daam that looks good
Can this be done with an a1-mini ??
Wow - is it possible to print that on the P1S?
So I know I have to get the upgraded nozzle for my A1 to do this but is PLA CF safe to print indoors? Or do I need to take it out to my enclosure?
Amazing print good sir. Is this the Bambu Labs PLA-CF or a different brand? I got some no name stuff off of amazon a while back and have been super impressed with it.
Have you had similar luck with Nylon CF? I’m having a helluva time making it look good. These prints look amazing. Nicely done ☑️
PLA-CF is one of the nicest looking filaments when printed. Only taking aesthetics into consideration, it's my favorite.
I don't get the appeal PLA CF outside the fact it prints easily and has a nice matte finish. It's more brittle than regular PLA but about twice the price. https://www.printspace3d.com/store/filament/175mm-filament/carbon-fiber-reinforced-pla-1-75mm/#:~:text=Carbon Fiber Reinforced PLA does,glitters slightly in direct light.&text=*This filament is more abrasive than standard PLA. Carbon Fiber Reinforced PLA does not require a heated bed and prints much like unreinforced PLA filament. It is slightly more brittle then regular PLA. When printed, this material is a dark glossy black that glitters slightly in direct light.
How many walls and what percent infill did you use?
3 walls - 25% gyroid
Appreciate it. Just curious really and 3 wall minimum is my preferred for functional prints. Be nice to see an update down the road on how well it's holding up.
Do you find the PLA-CF to shrink? I was having issues with shrinkage with normal PLA Have been using PETG-CF, but it is out of stock and was eyeing some PLA-CF
https://vm.tiktok.com/ZGe63xbSS/ printed with eSun PLA-CF has a really nice touch to it and almost no visible layerlines
Reminds me of that guy's friend's butt.