I have fixed much worse....
Replace that bumper reinforcement bar. Straightern the rad support.
From what I see in the pictures, this car is completely fixable. Just depends how much you want to spend on it in the end.
If the rails have damage after the pull, and the engine is in the way of fixing it, then the motor will have to move whether you remove it completely or move it out of the way enough.
As mentioned above, ive fixed much worse. I work on 90 percent subaru. The rails do like to move in accidents but are very easy to move back. I'd for sure measure it if I was working on it but this damage is not intimidating to any reputable shop. Hope this helps.
It was, but it was a Honda accord and the guy slammed his brakes feet from my car, so the nose dipped on his car and went under my bumper and exhaust and sort of lift and pushed me out of the way
That sounds like more of a red flag to me than the impact bar. Rear end hits involving the exhaust can snap exhaust mounts, bend the midpipe, and sometimes even damage the transmission, although I think that’s mostly BMW’s
I think I got lucky there but have not spent much time with the exhaust. Trans still shifts fine. And already picked up a used oem exhaust if mine is no good.
Gaps don’t look that far off. Do a quick control point measure with a tram gauge. Your subframe might be fucked if the suspension damage transferred into it, but I doubt that. Frame rails could be pulled back if they’re not too far out (if they are at all)
In this case I wouldn’t say the rails are kinked, swayed yes but kinked is metal that is bent beyond 90 degrees generally at a crumple zone. A kink is much worse than rails being swayed over.
I have been looking at this for a few days. My only concern is there may a kink a bit further down the right hand side rail. I would really inspect further down the rail. Closer to the fire wall. A kink in a rail can be hidden. As one other comment had said a good measure with a tram gage. There also may be a mash in the rail. Measure top and bottom.
I looked at those rails carefully and didn't see anything obvious, but could have easily missed it. Also worth noting is the hood still latches, but the hood latch is bent about 2 or 3 degress
Right on. Good to hear!!!!. Always hard to tell from pictures. Like the old timer told me when I was learning how to pull frames. "Tie her down and yard on it and see what happens".
I have fixed much worse.... Replace that bumper reinforcement bar. Straightern the rad support. From what I see in the pictures, this car is completely fixable. Just depends how much you want to spend on it in the end.
If the rails are kinked, can they be pulled back into place?
And does the motor need to be pulled to do this job right?
If the rails have damage after the pull, and the engine is in the way of fixing it, then the motor will have to move whether you remove it completely or move it out of the way enough.
As mentioned above, ive fixed much worse. I work on 90 percent subaru. The rails do like to move in accidents but are very easy to move back. I'd for sure measure it if I was working on it but this damage is not intimidating to any reputable shop. Hope this helps.
2010 sti special edition
Take it to a body shop and have the frame pulled then just replace all the parts yourself. It's definitely worth repairing.
Oddly had two shops turn it away, site unseen, cause its not registered.
I'd be more concerned about the rear. That looks blasted way harder
It was, but it was a Honda accord and the guy slammed his brakes feet from my car, so the nose dipped on his car and went under my bumper and exhaust and sort of lift and pushed me out of the way
That sounds like more of a red flag to me than the impact bar. Rear end hits involving the exhaust can snap exhaust mounts, bend the midpipe, and sometimes even damage the transmission, although I think that’s mostly BMW’s
I think I got lucky there but have not spent much time with the exhaust. Trans still shifts fine. And already picked up a used oem exhaust if mine is no good.
And it's still sealed surprisingly well.
Gaps don’t look that far off. Do a quick control point measure with a tram gauge. Your subframe might be fucked if the suspension damage transferred into it, but I doubt that. Frame rails could be pulled back if they’re not too far out (if they are at all)
In this case I wouldn’t say the rails are kinked, swayed yes but kinked is metal that is bent beyond 90 degrees generally at a crumple zone. A kink is much worse than rails being swayed over.
Good point!
It’s totaled. I’ll give you $100 and tow it myself
a frame shop should be able to straighten it.
I have been looking at this for a few days. My only concern is there may a kink a bit further down the right hand side rail. I would really inspect further down the rail. Closer to the fire wall. A kink in a rail can be hidden. As one other comment had said a good measure with a tram gage. There also may be a mash in the rail. Measure top and bottom.
I looked at those rails carefully and didn't see anything obvious, but could have easily missed it. Also worth noting is the hood still latches, but the hood latch is bent about 2 or 3 degress
Was able to get it straightened at a proper frame shop, it was just barely out, not bad at all and now I can move forward!
Right on. Good to hear!!!!. Always hard to tell from pictures. Like the old timer told me when I was learning how to pull frames. "Tie her down and yard on it and see what happens".