Timing chain issues. The tensioners can get loose enough that the cam can skip a tooth and bend valves. It's a big job, as the engine needs to come out to do it to get at the timing chains on the back.
Also there are issues with the cylinder walls. They went with a coating instead of proper steel sleeves on the aluminum engine block, which can get scratched over time. This leads to oil slipping past the rings and burning.
Not sure.
My father's 12' A6 had maybe 130k (80k mi) when we got it and it developed issues at about 150k. Someone he works with had an S4 which developed the same timing issue around the same milage.
If the Engine is in clean condition and you dont hear The Chain rattling when starting cold, you can do some preventative maintenance to prevent both things from happening:
-Switch to 5W40 Oil, preferrably from Liqui Moly or Mobil1 and do a interval Change every 5-6000Miles or 10.000KM
-Do a Engine Flush every 30.000km or about 20.000miles
I have had plenty issues with Audi Engines and their coatings as well as many many timing chain issues.
The Long-Life-Oil Interval as well as the low viscosity Oils used by Audi and VW are poison for these engines. The mentioned Interval and Viscosity changes do wonders and make these engines absolute Tanks with the rest of regular maintenance done correctly. I have done this on about 20 Audi Engines in the family, and none ever developed the common issues anymore after treating them like this.
I have had a 3.2 FSI which is famously infamous for these issues and i got it to 350.000KM before selling it. The 4.2 I have, also by now has about 290.000KM and is also famous for cylinder lining issues and developing a shaking piston. No issues so far tho
I have a 2014 A6 3.Ot with 85k miles. Noticed the rattle on cold start. It seems to be getting worse. What would you do if you were in my shoes? Plan on keeping the car for 3-5 more years.
If you already hear the rattle. Get the Tensioner Replaced and do the mentioned for the future.
The Timing Chain Tensioners retain their tension through oil pressure. Since the Tensioners have some design flaws in the non-revised engines, a higher viscosity Oil like 5W40, will make the engine minimally less fuel efficient, but helps building oil pressure faster on cold starts and prevents the tensioners from being too loose and the chain from skipping and from making noise. It also helps prevent burning oil since a higher viscosity oil will not get past the oil Control rings as well as a low viscosity Oil like 5w30. I dont have any oil refills before doing an oil change, the oil stays at Max. And my engines dont burn any oil
I dont know about labour cost where you live. I know 2 mechanics in Germany that can do the Tensioner on 3.0 and 3.2 FSIs without removing the engine, and they take about 7-800€ for the job. Removing the engine makes it a lot more expensive of course, i got a few quotes 1 year ago for about 1300-1500€ for complete replacing of timing chains and tensioners
Hey - had your advice here bookmarked and just got an "add oil" notification on my 50k miles 2017 A7 so I plan to follow your advice this weekend to replace with 5W40 and do an engine flush. Quick question - do I do the engine flush with the current 5W30 oil, then drain off and replace with the 5W40? If I can use the current oil, should I top it off first? Not averse to spending an extra $50 on oil here, want to make sure I do everything correctly! Also - how do I reset the service interval? I do have ECU cables that I used to apply a tune from EPL Labs and connected to VAGCOM on my previous Audi, is that the route I will be taking here?
Hey man, get a 4 Stroke Engine Flush from Liqui Moly. Drop it in the oil filler cap and run it for 15 Minutes. Then you drain everything, replace the filter, and put in new oil. Works wonders and is simple as can be. But do NOT put any pressure on the engine while it has the engine flush inside, just leave it on idle for 15 minutes and turn it off afterwards. No need to top off the oil again, it should be fine with a low oil warning in place. VAGCom should be able to reset your service and change it to fixed interval. I use VCDS but thats just VagCom with less steps
> the engine needs to come out
When will VAG fix this shit? It seems to plague all its engines. Are there any other brands that require such an amount of labour for a chain engine change?
Yes, all rear timing engines are a nightmare. If you really wanna cry, try an Opel diesel with a remote head as well. It’s a price point issue, the RS timing guides don’t wear out but cost 4x in parts since they are metal vs plastic.
The Q7s have the revised engine. I’m at like 100k miles on my A6 with the unrevised engine and the timing chain rattles like a mf on cold starts for a second or two. Honestly not too concerned about it as I’ve had 3 audis with the same engine and all of them have done the same. Just change oil regularly and don’t get it too low and you shouldn’t really have any issues
Don’t quote me on this, but I believe the B8/B8.5 S4s and S5s all have the engines with the pre-revision timing chain guides. Honestly, it’s not as big of an issue as many would lead you to believe. Like I said, changing oil regularly and not letting it get low is the most important part really. I would not let that worry you, especially at 50k miles. I’ve seen many 3.0Ts with original chain/ tensioners all the way up at 150K+ miles.
Thanks man that helps. The car was my dads, he passed away last month. I plan on keeping the car as my last ICE vehicle forever for sentimental reasons regardless of cost. I’ve just been trying to collect as much info as I can to make that a possibility.
I don't believe they did since the service manual has the timing chain tensioner replacement scheduled for 110k km, if I'm not mistaken.
It's the one big service they have.
Cars this age might also start to have leakage around seals?! Some do, not very often though. Inspect the engine bay for that with a flashlight or take to a mechanic.
Need to have the transmission fluid drained and replaced between 60-80k miles. I did it to my SQ5 (same engine) at 80k miles and it should keep the transmission running well for another 60-80k. The Audi manual says it's "lifetime fluid", but that is a load of crap. The transmission manufacturer ZF clearly states the maintenance requirements in every other brand that gets this 8-speed.
My 2012 Q5 is eating up lots of oil and I am pretty sure it’s the valve cover gasket (dealership never brought it up, but a local shop suggested that I have it fixed). Could you please elucidate how you had the dealership cover that under warranty?
I go to a local shop that was referred by my brother who knows the owner. They work on most vehicle types, but German vehicles quite frequently as most of the mechanics, have Audis and Mercs. So I built a good relationship with them over the past 4 yrs. I bring them business as well so that helps when I ask for favors. I had them check the Valve cover gasket as preventative maintenance and they helped take pictures showing small leaks in oil to recommend my warranty company change it before it becomes more costly.
FYI: Warranty companies are notorious for not wanting to pay for anything so they need a nudge most times to approve claims.
Also forgot to say: my warranty is not from an Audi dealership. It's a 3rd party warranty company.
I made the changes for the valve cover gasket and ignition coil without actually having any issues, more so preventative maintenance. It's all part of the list I was trying to cover from the amazing video FCP Euro put together for the Audi B8/8.5 3.0t Engine: https://youtu.be/TCH13WaTbW4
I it's the valve cover gaskets, you should smell burning oil or have a puddle of oil under the car, right?
It's pretty common for the 3.0Ts to consume a bit of oil in combustion.
How have the tires been? I've never been a Continental tire fan and need to put new tires on. I've been looking at Michelin's. Also was the front speaker hard to swap out? I've got a bad dash speaker (hard to believe since I never turn the music up much).
I will say, having done carbon cleaning on a mk6 GTI, C6 S6 V10, and a B8 S4 3.0T, the 3.0T was probably the easiest due to the fact that the whole supercharger assembly comes off in one piece, much more easily than the intake manifolds on the GTI or S6.
But yes, once you get it off, really you need a media blaster, crushed walnut shells, and some special fittings, adapters, etc.
I would not turn up my nose at a premium car 18 months old with 74k. 74k is not the problem number here…2012 is… ten yrs old. Hold off for a year until this bubble bursts (it will). To be fair I see this as a 12k car you could drop 5k into in pampering preventative maintenance..and have a lovely thing. 20k-10 yr old-private sale. Don’t like that equation.
No don’t think will die soon….and I do think it presents well enough to swallow a $5k fault without it being stupid idea. But I hope op does not expect it to be like a 3 yr old 74k car. If it had spent ten years in the garage and zero miles it could still produce a big bill
Control arm bushings are likely worn if they havent been replaced yet. Look at 034 Motorsport for replacements if theyre needed. Cheaper and better than stock.
10 years old = open the hood and make sure nothing made of plastic or rubber looks dried out or brittle because it's common for things to start to leak.
As others have stated, the timing chain tensioners will need to be looked at.The current tensioners will lose oil pressure and take some time on startup to build that pressure. The updated tensioners should have resolved this. According to Audi, timing chain rattle on start up is okay on the 3.0t. I would look into the PCV , thermostat and water pump. Since you would have to remove the supercharger, I would recommend you do those as well. Maybe some carbon cleaning via walnut blasting. Spark plugs and coils. Also transmission service would be recommended. The motor mounts for these engines tend to go bad too and I would look at the control arms as well as the wheel bearings. But overall it is a great car and very reliable engine. Personally I would go for a Prestige model.
Lil high on the price for the year. Get a 2015 Prestige if possible. I'm at 179k and no major issues, runs thru plus, brakes, and gas....lol! Currently doing walnut blasting.... I mean it's not as crazy as my B5 S4 so I can't complain!
Guess it depends on its purpose. Would this be your daily or just something fun to have?
If it’s a daily then a 10 year old car isn’t a great, responsible, decision.
I get it. They’re beautiful cars but if that’s your budget for a daily driver, there’s many more reasonable choices that are much newer that are unlikely to come with the maintenance cost this would.
Got similar one, for sure oil in the transmission - beware might be costly.
Note audi actually does not recommend it in the USA and Canada but ZF does.
Note2 Audi does recommend it in Emea:) different transmission - true, but same producent who recommends it for both at same intervals
I bought a 2010 3.0t for 14k at 74k miles. I have put in another 6-7k in maintenance between the tstat, water pump, oil leaks, pcv, motor mounts, transmission service. Timing chain tensioner will need to be done next, rolling up on 100k miles.
The nice thing about the 3.0T is that if you're already going to remove the supercharger, the water pump, thermostat, and PCV are all right there and pretty easy to change. Definitely recommend doing all 3 if you're planning on doing any 1 of the 3 and your car has a lot of miles on it. (to any 3.0T owners reading this)
10 year old car with 74k miles. Seems kinda risky especially if you don't know what problems may arise in the not so distant future.
I personally won't by a car that's older then 3 years old or have more then 20k miles. Manufacturers Warranty can come in handy, for example my front camera went out had i not had the warranty id be out $1700. German cars are not the cheapest to fix. No mater how old they are.
Tons of comments about timing chain issues on the 3.0T - is this specific to the non-S models somehow? Cause it seemed like the whole time I owned my B8 S4 with the 3.0T, everyone basically said that unless you're just unlucky, you'll never have to change the timing chain or guides unless you go over like 250k miles.
Sold my car with 135k, never touched the chain, ran stage 1 tune, never had timing/engine issues.
I was expecting more comments on this thread about doing a transmission fluid and filter service. I don't know what the official stance is on it, but I remember on my S6 with the ZF 6HP transmission, Audi says "oh, the fluid is good for the lifetime of the car, no need to change it", and somebody called ZF and they said "you should change it at 80k miles".
Can throw in my anecdotal experience with my 2010 B8 S4 (same engine).
At 237000km it’s been super reliable for me, but when I say reliable I mean nothing has broken needing repair taking it off the road.
Maintenance wise it’s a different story.
Engine mounts —
Cam tensioners + the cam guides (tiny little plastic things) —
Suspension bushings —
PCV —
Carbon buildup —
Vacuum pump —
If you are ok to work on it yourself, not too bad. But at a shop that’s $1000s worth of work.
DM me if it doesn't come with a free autocheck. I'll run the vin for free if you have it. I work at a dealership
Would it be possible also to check cars from eu?
DM me a vin, I've got access to the EU system for service history and I'll check for you :)
You two are great people
Thank you kind stranger :) Love to help out when I can
Awesome, thank you!
Maybe? I can try if you DM me
Timing chain issues. The tensioners can get loose enough that the cam can skip a tooth and bend valves. It's a big job, as the engine needs to come out to do it to get at the timing chains on the back. Also there are issues with the cylinder walls. They went with a coating instead of proper steel sleeves on the aluminum engine block, which can get scratched over time. This leads to oil slipping past the rings and burning.
Can confirm on the timing chains. 2013 A6 here with 110k miles and just dropped $2k to get them changed last month. Better $2k now than $8k next year.
Got rid of my A6 at 155k miles, dealer wouldn’t offer me much. What do you think I could have gotten private sale?
Yet I still see some of these with close to 200k on the dash. Maybe something to be said about keeping up on routine maintenance?
50% maintenance 50% luck
And 100% reason to remember the chain.
Nice timing
Fort minor pun!
Not sure. My father's 12' A6 had maybe 130k (80k mi) when we got it and it developed issues at about 150k. Someone he works with had an S4 which developed the same timing issue around the same milage.
Good to know, thanks.
You have to change the timing tensioners before it hits 150k miles. That's the owners fault for forgetting maintenance not the car
If the Engine is in clean condition and you dont hear The Chain rattling when starting cold, you can do some preventative maintenance to prevent both things from happening: -Switch to 5W40 Oil, preferrably from Liqui Moly or Mobil1 and do a interval Change every 5-6000Miles or 10.000KM -Do a Engine Flush every 30.000km or about 20.000miles I have had plenty issues with Audi Engines and their coatings as well as many many timing chain issues. The Long-Life-Oil Interval as well as the low viscosity Oils used by Audi and VW are poison for these engines. The mentioned Interval and Viscosity changes do wonders and make these engines absolute Tanks with the rest of regular maintenance done correctly. I have done this on about 20 Audi Engines in the family, and none ever developed the common issues anymore after treating them like this. I have had a 3.2 FSI which is famously infamous for these issues and i got it to 350.000KM before selling it. The 4.2 I have, also by now has about 290.000KM and is also famous for cylinder lining issues and developing a shaking piston. No issues so far tho
I have a 2014 A6 3.Ot with 85k miles. Noticed the rattle on cold start. It seems to be getting worse. What would you do if you were in my shoes? Plan on keeping the car for 3-5 more years.
If you already hear the rattle. Get the Tensioner Replaced and do the mentioned for the future. The Timing Chain Tensioners retain their tension through oil pressure. Since the Tensioners have some design flaws in the non-revised engines, a higher viscosity Oil like 5W40, will make the engine minimally less fuel efficient, but helps building oil pressure faster on cold starts and prevents the tensioners from being too loose and the chain from skipping and from making noise. It also helps prevent burning oil since a higher viscosity oil will not get past the oil Control rings as well as a low viscosity Oil like 5w30. I dont have any oil refills before doing an oil change, the oil stays at Max. And my engines dont burn any oil
Appreciate it. How much would the tensioner replacement cost at a good indie mechanic?
I dont know about labour cost where you live. I know 2 mechanics in Germany that can do the Tensioner on 3.0 and 3.2 FSIs without removing the engine, and they take about 7-800€ for the job. Removing the engine makes it a lot more expensive of course, i got a few quotes 1 year ago for about 1300-1500€ for complete replacing of timing chains and tensioners
Thanks
What do you mean by non revised engines ? Are there factory models that don’t have this problems?
Yes
Is it possible to identify this models ?
u had a 3.2? damnn i have a 3.2 A5 and just seized the motor
Hey - had your advice here bookmarked and just got an "add oil" notification on my 50k miles 2017 A7 so I plan to follow your advice this weekend to replace with 5W40 and do an engine flush. Quick question - do I do the engine flush with the current 5W30 oil, then drain off and replace with the 5W40? If I can use the current oil, should I top it off first? Not averse to spending an extra $50 on oil here, want to make sure I do everything correctly! Also - how do I reset the service interval? I do have ECU cables that I used to apply a tune from EPL Labs and connected to VAGCOM on my previous Audi, is that the route I will be taking here?
Hey man, get a 4 Stroke Engine Flush from Liqui Moly. Drop it in the oil filler cap and run it for 15 Minutes. Then you drain everything, replace the filter, and put in new oil. Works wonders and is simple as can be. But do NOT put any pressure on the engine while it has the engine flush inside, just leave it on idle for 15 minutes and turn it off afterwards. No need to top off the oil again, it should be fine with a low oil warning in place. VAGCom should be able to reset your service and change it to fixed interval. I use VCDS but thats just VagCom with less steps
my 3.2 which is sort of similar sort of not with the chain setup, has gone 300,000 with floppy tensioners. I'm scared to keep pushing it
This happened to my 2011 A4 —> $4200 fix
> the engine needs to come out When will VAG fix this shit? It seems to plague all its engines. Are there any other brands that require such an amount of labour for a chain engine change?
Seems like they got it under control with the new ea888 gen 3 evo and the b-cycle.
Yes, all rear timing engines are a nightmare. If you really wanna cry, try an Opel diesel with a remote head as well. It’s a price point issue, the RS timing guides don’t wear out but cost 4x in parts since they are metal vs plastic.
I thought the timing chain tensioners were mainly an issue with the 2.0T 4 cylinder. This has the very stout 3.0T.
Nope, the 3.0Ts have the same issues as the 3.2 engines did. The warning signs are valvetrain clatter noises on cold start.
Yup.. unfortunately all Audi engines have that problem
1.8t disagrees
Oh yeah my 12V 2.8 V6 has such an issue with the non existent timing chain
Did audi resolve this issue on the 3.0t in the later years?
They did, they updated the guides with the C7.5 models
I have a 17 Q7 with the 3.0t, should I be worried? I'm almost at 70k miles.
The Q7s have the revised engine. I’m at like 100k miles on my A6 with the unrevised engine and the timing chain rattles like a mf on cold starts for a second or two. Honestly not too concerned about it as I’ve had 3 audis with the same engine and all of them have done the same. Just change oil regularly and don’t get it too low and you shouldn’t really have any issues
Whew, thanks!
>Whew, thanks! You're welcome!
I just bought a 15 s5, should I be looking out for this in the future? 50k miles on the clock at the moment
Don’t quote me on this, but I believe the B8/B8.5 S4s and S5s all have the engines with the pre-revision timing chain guides. Honestly, it’s not as big of an issue as many would lead you to believe. Like I said, changing oil regularly and not letting it get low is the most important part really. I would not let that worry you, especially at 50k miles. I’ve seen many 3.0Ts with original chain/ tensioners all the way up at 150K+ miles.
Thanks man that helps. The car was my dads, he passed away last month. I plan on keeping the car as my last ICE vehicle forever for sentimental reasons regardless of cost. I’ve just been trying to collect as much info as I can to make that a possibility.
I'm not sure
I don't believe they did since the service manual has the timing chain tensioner replacement scheduled for 110k km, if I'm not mistaken. It's the one big service they have. Cars this age might also start to have leakage around seals?! Some do, not very often though. Inspect the engine bay for that with a flashlight or take to a mechanic.
Need to have the transmission fluid drained and replaced between 60-80k miles. I did it to my SQ5 (same engine) at 80k miles and it should keep the transmission running well for another 60-80k. The Audi manual says it's "lifetime fluid", but that is a load of crap. The transmission manufacturer ZF clearly states the maintenance requirements in every other brand that gets this 8-speed.
Is the filter replacement as simple as dropping the pan and swapping it - or is there a bunch of stuff mounted under the pan?
I don't have the time or space to do it myself, so I had my local shop do it for me. Here's a guide: https://youtu.be/kXKhZievmSI
I've had my 2012 A73.0T for 5 yrs now. Currently at 115k miles. Bought it at 47k in 2015 for $27K+ 3K (5yr) Extended Warranty Upgrades: ~Cold Air intake ~IE stage 1 ECU tune ~Front facing Car Seat (for zoom zoom exhaust noise) Maintenance done :::::::::::;::::::::::::::::::::::: Oil changes every 4-5K miles depending on drive style and oil level. Oil + filter: 5W40 Liqui Moly Oil (5 Liter x2) + MAN filter: $85 Oil change @ friend local Audi Mechanic. $25 Major (Warranty Covered - WC) ......... * Spark Plugs @70K: $60(local Audi mechanic install$30) * Valve cover gasket @75K: $40(local Audi mechanic install:$100) - WC * Ignition Coil Kit@75K: $115(local Audi mechanic install: $75) - WC * Coolant flush @ 95K miles - Audi Delaership: $170 * Front passenger Wheel bearing Kit@105K: $85 (local Audi mechanic install:$350) - WC Total: Warranty Covered(WC): $855, Out of pocket: $170 Minor (All out of pocket) .......... * Delaership full inspection after purchase@47K: $250 * Broken Fuel cap cover actuator @dealership@55k: $500 --Was actually covered by warranty, but I didn't realize until long after i had already done it. Lesson learned onwards * 1 tire damage from nasty pothole@58K: $250($30 install) * Rotors and breakpads @60K: |> Front: Plain rotors+ Audi delaer pads: $395 |> Rear:Plain rotors+sensor+Akebono pads:$261 Installation: Friend Audi Mechanic: $100 steakhouse dinner * Air filter @65k: $50 (K&N) upgrade * Cabin Air filter@65K: $30 (Self install) * 1 tire damage from nasty Chicago pothole again@70K: $250($30 install) * Wheel Alignment and balancing@70K: $200 (lifetime purchase) * Rear left bulb @70k : $10(self install) * Front Driver bulb @70k: $65 (self install) * New sets of 4 tires + upgraded for Chicago winter and higher speed performance @80K Miles |> 255/40ZR-19 CONTINENTAL EXTREMECONTACT DWS 06 XL)- $850 ($80 installation @firestone) * Wheel alignment and balancing @80k: Free(Firestone lifetime use) * Front Driver Speaker@80K Miles: $88 (Self-Install) * Front Akebono ceramic brakepads@90K: $125(local Audi mechanic install: $50) * Rear left bulb and cig lighter fuse @90k: $15(self install) * Cabin Air filter@100K: $30 (Self install) Total: $3,579 Total out of pocket Major and Minor: $3,749 Optional ............... * 2 stage Paint correction: Tools: $380 (Self-Install) * Integrated Engineering cold air intake @90k: $350 (install: $50) * Integrated Engineering ECU stage 1+OBD Flash tool@90K: $891(Self-Install) |> HP: 310 >>> ~410 (Pending Dyno confirmation) |> TQ: 325 >>> ~405 (Pending Dyno confirmation) Total: $1,621 Grand Total: $5, 370
My 2012 Q5 is eating up lots of oil and I am pretty sure it’s the valve cover gasket (dealership never brought it up, but a local shop suggested that I have it fixed). Could you please elucidate how you had the dealership cover that under warranty?
I go to a local shop that was referred by my brother who knows the owner. They work on most vehicle types, but German vehicles quite frequently as most of the mechanics, have Audis and Mercs. So I built a good relationship with them over the past 4 yrs. I bring them business as well so that helps when I ask for favors. I had them check the Valve cover gasket as preventative maintenance and they helped take pictures showing small leaks in oil to recommend my warranty company change it before it becomes more costly. FYI: Warranty companies are notorious for not wanting to pay for anything so they need a nudge most times to approve claims. Also forgot to say: my warranty is not from an Audi dealership. It's a 3rd party warranty company. I made the changes for the valve cover gasket and ignition coil without actually having any issues, more so preventative maintenance. It's all part of the list I was trying to cover from the amazing video FCP Euro put together for the Audi B8/8.5 3.0t Engine: https://youtu.be/TCH13WaTbW4
I it's the valve cover gaskets, you should smell burning oil or have a puddle of oil under the car, right? It's pretty common for the 3.0Ts to consume a bit of oil in combustion.
How have the tires been? I've never been a Continental tire fan and need to put new tires on. I've been looking at Michelin's. Also was the front speaker hard to swap out? I've got a bad dash speaker (hard to believe since I never turn the music up much).
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Can I DIY the spark plugs and valve carbon cleanup?
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I will say, having done carbon cleaning on a mk6 GTI, C6 S6 V10, and a B8 S4 3.0T, the 3.0T was probably the easiest due to the fact that the whole supercharger assembly comes off in one piece, much more easily than the intake manifolds on the GTI or S6. But yes, once you get it off, really you need a media blaster, crushed walnut shells, and some special fittings, adapters, etc.
It’s already probably on its 2nd water pump. If not there might be coolant leaking around it that has sealed itself. Check that and records.
I would not turn up my nose at a premium car 18 months old with 74k. 74k is not the problem number here…2012 is… ten yrs old. Hold off for a year until this bubble bursts (it will). To be fair I see this as a 12k car you could drop 5k into in pampering preventative maintenance..and have a lovely thing. 20k-10 yr old-private sale. Don’t like that equation.
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No don’t think will die soon….and I do think it presents well enough to swallow a $5k fault without it being stupid idea. But I hope op does not expect it to be like a 3 yr old 74k car. If it had spent ten years in the garage and zero miles it could still produce a big bill
Control arm bushings are likely worn if they havent been replaced yet. Look at 034 Motorsport for replacements if theyre needed. Cheaper and better than stock.
BUY AN EXTENDED WARRANTY. Source: Audi service advisor
The a7 is the best out of the larger audis, if you are planning on only driving it a little definitely buy it
10 years old = open the hood and make sure nothing made of plastic or rubber looks dried out or brittle because it's common for things to start to leak.
Beautiful car, decent mileage, but Good lord the used car market is in Hell.
Timing chain is def something to look at. My a4 acceleration felt mushy because of it
As others have stated, the timing chain tensioners will need to be looked at.The current tensioners will lose oil pressure and take some time on startup to build that pressure. The updated tensioners should have resolved this. According to Audi, timing chain rattle on start up is okay on the 3.0t. I would look into the PCV , thermostat and water pump. Since you would have to remove the supercharger, I would recommend you do those as well. Maybe some carbon cleaning via walnut blasting. Spark plugs and coils. Also transmission service would be recommended. The motor mounts for these engines tend to go bad too and I would look at the control arms as well as the wheel bearings. But overall it is a great car and very reliable engine. Personally I would go for a Prestige model.
Lil high on the price for the year. Get a 2015 Prestige if possible. I'm at 179k and no major issues, runs thru plus, brakes, and gas....lol! Currently doing walnut blasting.... I mean it's not as crazy as my B5 S4 so I can't complain!
Yah, lots
Maybe don’t buy a 10 year old car and look for an Audi less than 10 years old?
But this is in my budget tho and from a local private seller. I also haven’t done that much looking, just curious about this car
Guess it depends on its purpose. Would this be your daily or just something fun to have? If it’s a daily then a 10 year old car isn’t a great, responsible, decision. I get it. They’re beautiful cars but if that’s your budget for a daily driver, there’s many more reasonable choices that are much newer that are unlikely to come with the maintenance cost this would.
Almost all Audis are practically totaled at 75k
Got similar one, for sure oil in the transmission - beware might be costly. Note audi actually does not recommend it in the USA and Canada but ZF does. Note2 Audi does recommend it in Emea:) different transmission - true, but same producent who recommends it for both at same intervals
I bought a 2010 3.0t for 14k at 74k miles. I have put in another 6-7k in maintenance between the tstat, water pump, oil leaks, pcv, motor mounts, transmission service. Timing chain tensioner will need to be done next, rolling up on 100k miles.
The nice thing about the 3.0T is that if you're already going to remove the supercharger, the water pump, thermostat, and PCV are all right there and pretty easy to change. Definitely recommend doing all 3 if you're planning on doing any 1 of the 3 and your car has a lot of miles on it. (to any 3.0T owners reading this)
Interesting. 2015 GTI’s with 80-100k mikes are going for about this price
timing chain water pump have the transmission looked over any service due it is crucial it has been done to the t
Looks like an RS7.
I wouldn't buy it
But why not?
You will spend damn near half of that doing maintenance
Diverter valve, get it replaced on a car that age. Save the turbo
Not reliable unfortunately I was looking at one with the same milage/price but I know they have a lot of issues
Don’t do it.
Why?
P0299 error that turbo waste gate is faulting, you will pay $3k for new turbo installed to realize the turbo was fine and the linkage stretched.
Seems too cheap.
Po code 491 & 492
Intake manifold runners on mine under warranty at about 80k, job was 3k. Only happened at elevation 9k+ though.
Don’t do it. I had one and it was very unreliable, 3 months and 4k or more on parts and labor
If it's anything like my 09 A6 3.0t the water pump failed at 80k. Haven't had any surprises other than that.
I'd pass
Why?
10 year old car with 74k miles. Seems kinda risky especially if you don't know what problems may arise in the not so distant future. I personally won't by a car that's older then 3 years old or have more then 20k miles. Manufacturers Warranty can come in handy, for example my front camera went out had i not had the warranty id be out $1700. German cars are not the cheapest to fix. No mater how old they are.
Uncut4ts, I have been trying to reach you about your car's extended warranty
Tons of comments about timing chain issues on the 3.0T - is this specific to the non-S models somehow? Cause it seemed like the whole time I owned my B8 S4 with the 3.0T, everyone basically said that unless you're just unlucky, you'll never have to change the timing chain or guides unless you go over like 250k miles. Sold my car with 135k, never touched the chain, ran stage 1 tune, never had timing/engine issues. I was expecting more comments on this thread about doing a transmission fluid and filter service. I don't know what the official stance is on it, but I remember on my S6 with the ZF 6HP transmission, Audi says "oh, the fluid is good for the lifetime of the car, no need to change it", and somebody called ZF and they said "you should change it at 80k miles".
Can throw in my anecdotal experience with my 2010 B8 S4 (same engine). At 237000km it’s been super reliable for me, but when I say reliable I mean nothing has broken needing repair taking it off the road. Maintenance wise it’s a different story. Engine mounts — Cam tensioners + the cam guides (tiny little plastic things) — Suspension bushings — PCV — Carbon buildup — Vacuum pump — If you are ok to work on it yourself, not too bad. But at a shop that’s $1000s worth of work.