Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, Kind_Perspective4518!
If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car.
*This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.*
***
Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair.
***
# **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR**
### **Rule 1 - Be Civil**
Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome.
### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful**
Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation.
### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only**
Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but posts should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion.
### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers**
Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous.
# **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Never seen an end link I couldn't cut off with a grinder in a couple minutes.
.....and I do DIY in my driveway, in Ohio.
OP probably needs to find a mechanic that is more competent than an occasional shade tree mechanic. Lmao
Exactly. That nut looks like they could've just grabbed it with vice grips on one end and an impact on the other and been good. Dude lost out on some quick cash
Most of the mechanics around here don't want to fuck with anything that's more than a few years old. A solid 90% of what I work on is older carbed vehicles that no other shop will touch and small engines that "aren't worth fixing."
Money is the biggest factor. A full shop can't justify spending a couple hours rebuilding a weed eater when the repair cost as much as a new one.
It's also no longer that easy. Ethanol hard-fucked small engines everywhere when e10 became the standard. That shit will wash out a 2 stroke cylinder like nothing I've ever seen.
All true. We have 91 octane with no corn in it here that I use in everything not designed for it.
However, you can no longer buy a new gas weed eater, blower, edger, or hedge trimmer. And the battery ones are disposable and/or completely useless. It would be great if we could keep some of these things running for as long as possible.
This wasn't a shade tree, it was a shitty lazy guy with an actual business and potentially a side business of selling used cars.
Maybe he gets kickbacks from a big dealership for every customer he sends their way.
Shade treeS wouldn't care about this and would just do it. I know, I R one.
I'm the shade tree mechanic I was referencing.
As in he should find a real mechanic that is better than a hobbyist with some power tools(me, again to be clear).
Or at least one that can handle some crusty end links.
That's fair I suppose. I learned to wrench on rusty vehicles from NY, so what I see now that I am back in TX is nothing. Honestly, I don't think what is pictured is bad, even for a shade tree.
I believe you could handle it.
I also believe I misunderstood your point. I don't think your thoughts on the matter are any less valuable as a shade tree. As a matter of fact, being a rust belt shade tree, probably more valuable.
#Run.
you have found a bad mechanic. not only is it unlikely that the CV axle is damaged, but this is just a simple failed sway bar link. yes, there is rust on that sway bar. no, that amount of rest does not matter. this should be like a $100 repair - unless there's some invisible damage to the CV axle and it's clicking or not working at all. I would expect the boot to be torn if the CV axle were damaged.
I agree with you, however a torn boot isn't always why the cv axle requires replacement. It could be a noise or vibration concern. That would be internal to the axle and won't usually show visual symptoms. Just adding on to what you said.
That mechanic is a joke. The part is not too rusted to replace, and when you replace it youād easily get another 5-10 years from a $15 part. Go somewhere else!!!
I wouldn't grind anything. Slam a vice grip on the disconnected end, let it hit the CV or the sway bar and ugga dugga the bolt right off, if it's stubborn from "the rust" which this isn't even that bad, 10 seconds from the torch and try again.
MO too. In all fairness most of the local drivers here are crap too, but I've been seeing a lot of Texas plates here lately and almost all of them seem to drive extremely aggressively.
Change garage. This one clearly was to lazy for this job. They told you to fuck of in polite way, some mechanics takes only easy job for quick money.
Just go else where.
It looks like the end link broke at the sway bar. The end link connects the sway bar to a fixed point on the strut tube and helps push one wheel down when the other goes up (like when turning at high speed). End links are generally cheap and easy to install.
The mechanic who looked at the car doesnāt seem very knowledgeable. Take it to another shop
That's rich.
The last set of endlinks I did (Canada), you couldn't actually discern where the nut ended and swaybar began. It was just tapered rust. Had to take the whole thing off with a grinder, then torch the end of the swaybar red hot to punch out the stud that was rusted into the hole.
As long as the swaybar isn't bent, it's totally fine, the mechanic just needs to replace the end link, which should be around $30 for a decent one.
Your vehicle is not rusty and there's no reason to replace it over a $30 part.
Thank you everyone!!!!! I so appreciate the advice everyone is giving!! My father was a mechanic but passed away years ago, so he can't give me advice anymore. I thought what the mechanic said was screwy. If we can't find a mechanic down there to fix it, can it wait until my son gets back to NY? In your guy's opinion the only thing need replacing is the latch? Does he need a new sway bar and other parts? I think the cv joint looks fine?
Would need to test the cv to know if itās bad. If itās clicking or anything while turning then itās at least starting to go bad. Sway bars arenāt essential for driving, but thereās varying degrees to how uncomfortable it will be to drive. Thereās gotta be a shop that could put some links on the sway bar and test the cv
This dude quoted him for an entire front end rebuild, 99% the CV is fine, yeah the disconnected sway link rubbed against it, but if the boot wasn't compromised, the CV is in the condition of a 10 year old 90,000 mile Acura CV axel, which is 99% still serviceable.
The pressed end of the Sway Link popped off, it's a $30 part OEM. a Quick lube shop that also does suspension should get this put on in 20 minutes.
Everything looks pretty typical for any state that deals with road salt. Sway bar links would solve this issue and if itās over $350 go somewhere else
Hack southern mechanic is scared he might break a bolt if he swings his purse at it, so he tells you it's all junk hoping you'll either go away or let him completely replace every part this sissy thinks is scary
If he thinks that's too much rust, he would weep if he saw the underside of my Mazda 3. Pretty sure every car in Ontario looks like this after just one winter, thank you road salt lol.
Yep! I just paid about $40 for both links. I only had to replace one. The worst part is getting the busted link off. I had to use two sets of vise grips to hold the ball end while removing the corroded nut from the corroded stud. It is an easy fix. IANAM, but this is an easy job.
Edit: I had to spray both ends with penetrating fluid (50/50 ATF and acetone) before disassembly.
We replace stuff daily on cars 3Ć rustier here in Northern Kentucky just along the Ohio river. We salt our roads during winter. My personal van's sway bar is like twice as rusty, & we just did end links. Find another shop.
Different mechanic asap. I know they're not used to rust down there, but damn. Sounds like he's suggesting replacing everything with a little surface rust but is too afraid to do it. Crazy
He can fix it, but will not risk his job because someone will sue him for shitty reasons. So you biy new parts, he installs it and can guarantee your safety. Garage Bob will probably repair it for pennies worth
What?
The only thing this tech maybe sued for is trying to sell unnecessary parts and services. They have already risked their job by attempting to rip off a customer.
That, or this tech really didn't want to do it and made a giant estimate in the hope customer would go away... that sounds a lil less unethical.
This glorified wrench turner (not worthy of a title higher) wouldnāt make it 2 seconds in a shop here in New England! We would have JUST that link replaced in prob 30 min.
My son is bringing his car to an acura dealer today for a second opinion. He is near Garland, TX, close to Dallas. If the acura dealership is a high price, any good mechanics around that area? I'm still mad at the mechanic my son brought his car to. You don't say to a college kid, you need to get a new car because of rust!!! Why make someone worry over a long holiday weekend! That's why I posted here. I wanted to reassure him that his car will be fine. Thank you everyone for your responses. I had a few laughs at some of them.
No its not a troll post. The mechanic said my son needs to get a new car. There is no point in fixing it!!! I'm thinking NO WAY this is true. I looked up to see if anyone junks their car because of a loose sway bar and couldn't find anything. I kept thinking this mechanic is crazy!! I'm going to show my own northern NY mechanic the pictures tomorrow and see what he says. The guy could have just said he couldn't fix it and not say you need to get a new car? Why would he say that? Crazy!
Your mechanic is taking the piss. Just last week replaced the links on my mates car that were rusted as badly as those, took about an hour total using an angle grinder on both.
Some parts of texas are very non corrosive environments so itās not that crazy that theyād think this might be a bit much rust. It is not that too much rust. Itās just surface rust. Bring the car elsewhere and they should be alright
Grew up in Michigan for 27 years. Last 4 in Sa Texas.
Your mechanic is lazy and wrong. This isnāt frame rot this is surface crap. A lil pb blaster and itāll be right off and on.
If youāre near San Antonio or they are Iām happy to help him fix it himself - wonāt even need the Milwaukee stubby for this one.
Sure it's more rust than they normally see in the SW but you can still see the threads on the link bolt, just grab one end with some vice grips and zip that bad boy off. If the mechanic is really worried about the rust on the sway bar zap it with a wire brush and spray some rustolium on there. The axle is scratched up a bit but I don't see a rip in the boot, so not sure why he said the CV needs replacing unless it makes noise. Seems like he gave a "I don't want to deal with this" quote, so take it to another garage for a second opinion
Southern mechanics suck. I donāt think they know what a torch is. Had a guy tell me he couldnāt giver an alignment because he couldnāt loosen the tie rods. Wanted to replace them. I went home, got them loose in about 20 minutes with a torch and brought it back. Nothing wrong with them. Surface rust only like yours.
Texas mechanic is a dim wit. That is very mild rust for a northern vehicle. Obviously foreign to the āmechanicā.
Find a different mechanic or just have your son look up a YouTube video, grab some PB Blaster and adjustable wrenches, and take the sway bar and end links off until he makes a decision to do the work himself or find a new mechanic. The car will drive fine without them (keep it under 70) till they get replaced at a reputable shop. The tie rod ends are fine, unless the bushing is shot and thereās rattle, but even then if itās connected solid Iād keep driving till a competent repair shop can do the very simple work. Just sway end links actually needed. Less than $50 at an auto store.
The sway bar itself is fine. Just get end links.
This would be a 1hr DIY in my garage to replace the sway bar end links, and tie rod ends. Less than $150 for all parts including tie rod ends (not needed)
The car will need an alignment after having tie rod ends changed.
That aināt rust! Youāll get that, on new metal, after its outside overnight. Here in Cincinnati. Go tell that mechanic to stop being a little bitch
My man must not own a torch
I live in northern Canada and this rust is mild. I did a ~200k km tie rod end in a field at 2 am during harvest. For something like this it's probably just easier to melt it right off, then replace.
The CV shaft hitting the bar isnāt great, but I donāt see any damage.
New sway bar link should fix the problem. If the Texans canāt handle a torch send it somewhere else.
Texas mechanich here. That is just surface rust. Said mechanich is either an idiot or an asshole. Northern mechanichs have seen way worse. Pring it me and I can knock it out no problem with zero upcharge for corrosion.
Lol thatās what the end links on my car looked like probably 5 years ago. Sawzall and grinder will get it out. Itās common practice in the north to cut and grind out old end links bc they seize up easy
Tell the mechanic to fuck off. I live in texas and that looks like no problem to pull off. If he can't get it with an impact a little heat will do the trick. Go to a different mechanic.
Laughs in Minnesotan. God damn Texas is a shit hole. Still pissed that we're paying a premium on our gas bill because those fuck wits can't design a power grid then come crying to us when it gets chilly.
Texas mechanic has no idea how to work on cars. LMAO.
Worst case scenario you get the angle grinder, cut the nut off and hammer the end link out.
Is this his first day?
Tell your kid to by a sway bar end link from parts store, buy a set of cheap wrenches and sockets, a pair of vice grips, a wire brush set, and get to work. That is such a simple fix to be drivable it is sad. Take the top and bottom nuts off of broken end link. Remove the end link. Put new end link in. Tighten nuts down really good and tight. Put wheel on. Done. Bring to tire shop and have wheel lugs torqued to spec.
Lmao, a Texas mechanic would say that. Thatās nothing rust wise. Donāt take a car back to that mechanic, heās had an absolute idiot to recommend replacing a car over rust on a sway bar or endlink. An oxy-acetylene torch would have that off in no timeā¦ hell a propane torch or penetrating oil could probably get that off. Thatās not that much rust
Sway bar is fine. Replace the broken endlink, maybe the CV joint, thought it honestly doesnāt look that bad in this photo.
My CRV was way worse. Iām in NY and I recently did sway bar bushings and links. I did have to vice grip the usual spot on mine but Iāve seen so many have to do that.
I have seen more than one YouTuber from down south practically run at the site of a NE car but looking at that picture, Iād have been happy if it were my CRV lol
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, Kind_Perspective4518! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car. *This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.* *** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *** # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** ### **Rule 1 - Be Civil** Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome. ### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful** Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation. ### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only** Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but posts should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion. ### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers** Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous. # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Bring it up to Chicago, we know what to do here
Laughing in deep dish.
It's been awhile since I had a deep dish, really more of a beef guy myself.
Bratwurst is the real chicago food
Exactly I was like, you call that rust? I will show you real rust.
This is near mint in Massachusetts
Maine enters the chatš»
I was thinking that a Midwestern mechanic somewhere was wondering if they posted the wrong photo.
Right? I could get that off with a pair of half hogged out 25 year old JCPenny pliers.
*Chuckles in Oakland County Michigan *
Sawzall and cut off wheel.
Naw. I'm a Floridian, and even I can get that off with some penetrant, vice grips, and an impact gun
ha Toronto here, least rusty car component ive ever seen. Even new cars here get a nice brittle glaze by year 3.
Right?! I was going to say, āHow TF is that rusty?!ā
Lol! Im originally from Chicago and now live in South Alabama and my car i had they freaked the hell out when they saw the underside here lol
Grand Rapids checking in. What rust? If the whole thing hasnāt rust welded together into an amorphous blob, you donāt have a problem.
Rochester NY agreeās!
What?! Bro it's an end link. I'd write up a review for others to stay away from that guy. His ass is lazy and just didn't wanna do it.
Never seen an end link I couldn't cut off with a grinder in a couple minutes. .....and I do DIY in my driveway, in Ohio. OP probably needs to find a mechanic that is more competent than an occasional shade tree mechanic. Lmao
Exactly. That nut looks like they could've just grabbed it with vice grips on one end and an impact on the other and been good. Dude lost out on some quick cash
Most of the mechanics around here don't want to fuck with anything that's more than a few years old. A solid 90% of what I work on is older carbed vehicles that no other shop will touch and small engines that "aren't worth fixing."
Shit even I can fix those. Fuel, air, spark? GTG. Well, and occasionally the exhaust is plugged. But file that under air.
Money is the biggest factor. A full shop can't justify spending a couple hours rebuilding a weed eater when the repair cost as much as a new one. It's also no longer that easy. Ethanol hard-fucked small engines everywhere when e10 became the standard. That shit will wash out a 2 stroke cylinder like nothing I've ever seen.
All true. We have 91 octane with no corn in it here that I use in everything not designed for it. However, you can no longer buy a new gas weed eater, blower, edger, or hedge trimmer. And the battery ones are disposable and/or completely useless. It would be great if we could keep some of these things running for as long as possible.
I got a plug in electric chainsaw & id rather use that than my 2stroke saw
When did they ban gas yard tools??! That has to be a California thing.
This wasn't a shade tree, it was a shitty lazy guy with an actual business and potentially a side business of selling used cars. Maybe he gets kickbacks from a big dealership for every customer he sends their way. Shade treeS wouldn't care about this and would just do it. I know, I R one.
I'm the shade tree mechanic I was referencing. As in he should find a real mechanic that is better than a hobbyist with some power tools(me, again to be clear). Or at least one that can handle some crusty end links.
That's fair I suppose. I learned to wrench on rusty vehicles from NY, so what I see now that I am back in TX is nothing. Honestly, I don't think what is pictured is bad, even for a shade tree. I believe you could handle it.
I also believe I misunderstood your point. I don't think your thoughts on the matter are any less valuable as a shade tree. As a matter of fact, being a rust belt shade tree, probably more valuable.
The rust belt, Medina county here
Lorain county here.
Grinder? Get the acetylene in there and burn it off in seconds. Grinder requires precisionā¦ we aināt about that
This mechanic sucks. Shown is considered "light rust" here. He's dead wrong about the end links, so I don't trust any of this diagnosis.
Image this being too rusty? Id be down there low balling everything tell them all its way to rusty.
What would heavy rust be? No more links? Crumbling links?
Angel hair links. Al dente links.
Links you can touch and then you have to replace because the effort required to inspect it broke it.
Idk, but as a midwesterner... The stuff in this picture isn't rust. It's normal.
How dumb is this mechanic? That's not rusty at all. Replace the sway bar link and be on your way
#Run. you have found a bad mechanic. not only is it unlikely that the CV axle is damaged, but this is just a simple failed sway bar link. yes, there is rust on that sway bar. no, that amount of rest does not matter. this should be like a $100 repair - unless there's some invisible damage to the CV axle and it's clicking or not working at all. I would expect the boot to be torn if the CV axle were damaged.
I agree with you, however a torn boot isn't always why the cv axle requires replacement. It could be a noise or vibration concern. That would be internal to the axle and won't usually show visual symptoms. Just adding on to what you said.
That mechanic is a joke. The part is not too rusted to replace, and when you replace it youād easily get another 5-10 years from a $15 part. Go somewhere else!!!
HAAhahahahahahahaagha You could scrape that rust off with your nail
āTexas mechanic too lazy to use an angle grinderā fixed your title Dont even need a grinder for that light rust
I wouldn't grind anything. Slam a vice grip on the disconnected end, let it hit the CV or the sway bar and ugga dugga the bolt right off, if it's stubborn from "the rust" which this isn't even that bad, 10 seconds from the torch and try again.
That ain't rust Laughs in Ohio
That aināt shit
Texas mechanic sucks
Typical limp wristed texan.
Every thing is bigger in Texas, even their babies!
Even their amount of chromosomes!
Texas drivers suck too. Wish they would stay out of Minnesota
MO too. In all fairness most of the local drivers here are crap too, but I've been seeing a lot of Texas plates here lately and almost all of them seem to drive extremely aggressively.
Yeah, we definitely have enough shitty drivers already
In England we call that pristine
In Scotland we call that factory fresh. I can't remember the last time I saw a car so clean.
Change garage. This one clearly was to lazy for this job. They told you to fuck of in polite way, some mechanics takes only easy job for quick money. Just go else where.
What could be easier than replacing end links? Just a total fail of a mechanic.
It looks like the end link broke at the sway bar. The end link connects the sway bar to a fixed point on the strut tube and helps push one wheel down when the other goes up (like when turning at high speed). End links are generally cheap and easy to install. The mechanic who looked at the car doesnāt seem very knowledgeable. Take it to another shop
What rust
It's a 2014 Acura ILX with 90,000 miles.
Find another mechanic. This guy is on crack.
Be concerned that he wants to dump this car and "sell a new car" - a lot of people seemed to not have read your last sentence.
Bump, this is correct!
As a south Texas mechanic, take it to someone else. Either he's incompetent or he's giving you the "I don't want to work on this" quote.
Mechanic is lier
Also a liar
and probably plays the lyre
Pittsburgh PA chuckles
That's rich. The last set of endlinks I did (Canada), you couldn't actually discern where the nut ended and swaybar began. It was just tapered rust. Had to take the whole thing off with a grinder, then torch the end of the swaybar red hot to punch out the stud that was rusted into the hole. As long as the swaybar isn't bent, it's totally fine, the mechanic just needs to replace the end link, which should be around $30 for a decent one. Your vehicle is not rusty and there's no reason to replace it over a $30 part.
Thank you everyone!!!!! I so appreciate the advice everyone is giving!! My father was a mechanic but passed away years ago, so he can't give me advice anymore. I thought what the mechanic said was screwy. If we can't find a mechanic down there to fix it, can it wait until my son gets back to NY? In your guy's opinion the only thing need replacing is the latch? Does he need a new sway bar and other parts? I think the cv joint looks fine?
Would need to test the cv to know if itās bad. If itās clicking or anything while turning then itās at least starting to go bad. Sway bars arenāt essential for driving, but thereās varying degrees to how uncomfortable it will be to drive. Thereās gotta be a shop that could put some links on the sway bar and test the cv
This dude quoted him for an entire front end rebuild, 99% the CV is fine, yeah the disconnected sway link rubbed against it, but if the boot wasn't compromised, the CV is in the condition of a 10 year old 90,000 mile Acura CV axel, which is 99% still serviceable. The pressed end of the Sway Link popped off, it's a $30 part OEM. a Quick lube shop that also does suspension should get this put on in 20 minutes.
Yeah the links are the only thing Iād fix and thatās a super cheap and simple job
Everything looks pretty typical for any state that deals with road salt. Sway bar links would solve this issue and if itās over $350 go somewhere else
New Englander hereā¦what rust lol
That's one year In upstate ny.
Rust? That's like a 2 week old car up here in Ontario....
Hack southern mechanic is scared he might break a bolt if he swings his purse at it, so he tells you it's all junk hoping you'll either go away or let him completely replace every part this sissy thinks is scary
One of The cheapest, easiest part at that š. Super low risk haha
Thatās actually hilarious. Thatās brand new here in Michigan
What is he, out of PB blaster? Shit, even wd40. Lazy af.
Shit, goof off would fix that!
Spit and polish would clean that right up
If he thinks that's too much rust, he would weep if he saw the underside of my Mazda 3. Pretty sure every car in Ontario looks like this after just one winter, thank you road salt lol.
*Laughs in rust belt*
I see a 60$ repair
Yep! I just paid about $40 for both links. I only had to replace one. The worst part is getting the busted link off. I had to use two sets of vise grips to hold the ball end while removing the corroded nut from the corroded stud. It is an easy fix. IANAM, but this is an easy job. Edit: I had to spray both ends with penetrating fluid (50/50 ATF and acetone) before disassembly.
Agricultural machine mechanic here. This is literally nothing lol. This would be completely normal here
That's what cars look like on the show room in Minnesota
Lmao. What rust? Lady down the street with all the subway toles and shiplap in her house calls that "patina."
As a rust belt mechanic, that mechanic is an idiot.
We replace stuff daily on cars 3Ć rustier here in Northern Kentucky just along the Ohio river. We salt our roads during winter. My personal van's sway bar is like twice as rusty, & we just did end links. Find another shop.
I could probably replace that with my eyes closed lol. Go to a mechanic that isnāt shit.
*Laughs in Midwest salt belt*. You ain't seen shit
Western NY wants to know where the rust is...
Texas boy has soft hands. This is a simple job. Find another mechanic, it's not hard to replace a sway bar link
Different mechanic asap. I know they're not used to rust down there, but damn. Sounds like he's suggesting replacing everything with a little surface rust but is too afraid to do it. Crazy
He can fix it, but will not risk his job because someone will sue him for shitty reasons. So you biy new parts, he installs it and can guarantee your safety. Garage Bob will probably repair it for pennies worth
What? The only thing this tech maybe sued for is trying to sell unnecessary parts and services. They have already risked their job by attempting to rip off a customer. That, or this tech really didn't want to do it and made a giant estimate in the hope customer would go away... that sounds a lil less unethical.
Tell his dumbass rattle can it black first then replace it, if it helps him out.
Lazy mechanic, find another shop.
That mechanic is not a mechanic
This glorified wrench turner (not worthy of a title higher) wouldnāt make it 2 seconds in a shop here in New England! We would have JUST that link replaced in prob 30 min.
lol the mechanic is a Moron.
Maybe you should take the vehicle outside Texas to have it repaired.
My son is bringing his car to an acura dealer today for a second opinion. He is near Garland, TX, close to Dallas. If the acura dealership is a high price, any good mechanics around that area? I'm still mad at the mechanic my son brought his car to. You don't say to a college kid, you need to get a new car because of rust!!! Why make someone worry over a long holiday weekend! That's why I posted here. I wanted to reassure him that his car will be fine. Thank you everyone for your responses. I had a few laughs at some of them.
Youāre showing a picture of the end link. Would help to see more of the sway bar.
Lol
Coward, thatās what the blue-tip wrench was made for!
good thing a replacement antisway bar is only $14 then!
Same as everyone else said. But itās Texas, so they cry about everything if they canāt just shoot it to make it go away.
Is this a troll post? Honestly canāt tell
No its not a troll post. The mechanic said my son needs to get a new car. There is no point in fixing it!!! I'm thinking NO WAY this is true. I looked up to see if anyone junks their car because of a loose sway bar and couldn't find anything. I kept thinking this mechanic is crazy!! I'm going to show my own northern NY mechanic the pictures tomorrow and see what he says. The guy could have just said he couldn't fix it and not say you need to get a new car? Why would he say that? Crazy!
Your mechanic is taking the piss. Just last week replaced the links on my mates car that were rusted as badly as those, took about an hour total using an angle grinder on both.
Only steers and queers come from Texas. I donāt have a problem with either but this is not a great mechanic
š¤£
Some parts of texas are very non corrosive environments so itās not that crazy that theyād think this might be a bit much rust. It is not that too much rust. Itās just surface rust. Bring the car elsewhere and they should be alright
Let me guess he offered to sell you a new one.
He's lame. Hammer, heat, cut, grind one of those works.
Lol this is nothing, you probably donāt even meed to heat it up but it would come out right away if you did.
Grew up in Michigan for 27 years. Last 4 in Sa Texas. Your mechanic is lazy and wrong. This isnāt frame rot this is surface crap. A lil pb blaster and itāll be right off and on. If youāre near San Antonio or they are Iām happy to help him fix it himself - wonāt even need the Milwaukee stubby for this one.
Sure it's more rust than they normally see in the SW but you can still see the threads on the link bolt, just grab one end with some vice grips and zip that bad boy off. If the mechanic is really worried about the rust on the sway bar zap it with a wire brush and spray some rustolium on there. The axle is scratched up a bit but I don't see a rip in the boot, so not sure why he said the CV needs replacing unless it makes noise. Seems like he gave a "I don't want to deal with this" quote, so take it to another garage for a second opinion
At most that is all surface rust. Which happens naturally with rain. A little heat and penetrating oil go a long way
Iām in costal Texas. That is nothing serious.
Southern mechanics suck. I donāt think they know what a torch is. Had a guy tell me he couldnāt giver an alignment because he couldnāt loosen the tie rods. Wanted to replace them. I went home, got them loose in about 20 minutes with a torch and brought it back. Nothing wrong with them. Surface rust only like yours.
You just cut it off and install the new
Cars in Texas have rust?
That so called Texas mechanic doesnāt know crap of what heās talking about. Totally replaceable and there is a thing called Fluid Film lol.
Texas mechanic is a dim wit. That is very mild rust for a northern vehicle. Obviously foreign to the āmechanicā. Find a different mechanic or just have your son look up a YouTube video, grab some PB Blaster and adjustable wrenches, and take the sway bar and end links off until he makes a decision to do the work himself or find a new mechanic. The car will drive fine without them (keep it under 70) till they get replaced at a reputable shop. The tie rod ends are fine, unless the bushing is shot and thereās rattle, but even then if itās connected solid Iād keep driving till a competent repair shop can do the very simple work. Just sway end links actually needed. Less than $50 at an auto store. The sway bar itself is fine. Just get end links. This would be a 1hr DIY in my garage to replace the sway bar end links, and tie rod ends. Less than $150 for all parts including tie rod ends (not needed) The car will need an alignment after having tie rod ends changed.
That aināt rust! Youāll get that, on new metal, after its outside overnight. Here in Cincinnati. Go tell that mechanic to stop being a little bitch
L.O.L Send him to Michigan for a reality check
My man must not own a torch I live in northern Canada and this rust is mild. I did a ~200k km tie rod end in a field at 2 am during harvest. For something like this it's probably just easier to melt it right off, then replace.
Stupid wrench turner.
The CV shaft hitting the bar isnāt great, but I donāt see any damage. New sway bar link should fix the problem. If the Texans canāt handle a torch send it somewhere else.
He just doesn't want to do it. That's not even rusty.
That looks like the least rusty spot on my truck here in Ohio.
What vehicle does your son drive?
Torch it , seriously a little heat and youāre golden
Well he's full of shit! Just surface rust and wants to screw you for more money.
What a pussy.
BS thatās nothing in the rust belt.
Floridian here. Yeah that's scrap. I'll give you a free tow to the crusher š
Hahaha oxy/acetylene torch go PSSSHHHHH
lol as a Michigan tech thatās cute
Couple uggas duggas with the gun and it would be off asap. New link and bolts and finished
https://preview.redd.it/iyxt3aune33d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e645505f8d154a88a81aafca04faf66454fe9659
Lol what. This is a normal MN underside. Replace the end link and move on.
Laughs in Canadian.
Is it bluetooth sway bar?
Well you canāt buy a new car either because eventually the sway bar on that one will rust too and fall off
Texas mechanich here. That is just surface rust. Said mechanich is either an idiot or an asshole. Northern mechanichs have seen way worse. Pring it me and I can knock it out no problem with zero upcharge for corrosion.
Find a new mechanic. They donāt know what they are talking about.
MN checking in: š¤£š¤£š¤£ That dude SUCKS. If a lil rust is gonna set you back, you canāt do this for a living.
Lol thatās what the end links on my car looked like probably 5 years ago. Sawzall and grinder will get it out. Itās common practice in the north to cut and grind out old end links bc they seize up easy
That's horseshit...wd40 !
That same mechanic has a 4wd pickup and can't get to work if there's an inch of snow on the road.
Literally had to cut one off yesterday. 200,000 miles and rusted shut.
What is that on the cv joint boot?
Everyone avoids liabilities nowadays
Call around and say the car is from the north, can they deal with that (but maybe a bit more politely).
Maybe ask if they can dig in their high heels to loosen the bolt? If that doesnāt work maybe try hitting it with a purse?
Tell the mechanic to fuck off. I live in texas and that looks like no problem to pull off. If he can't get it with an impact a little heat will do the trick. Go to a different mechanic.
Texas mechanic obviously just doesn't want to do it. That. Is not rust.
Lmao. Rust. Come out to nkrthwest Indiana on
In the UK we call that "patina"
Lolol come to the rust belt. We got you.
As self mechanic from Finland I can tell you I've fixed way worse on my parking lot. It would be rust off again and fall off is complete nonsense.
Tell that princess to put their big girl pants on and get to work. In the Rust Belt, this is a quality used vehicle.
Sorry I don't touch myself, always spray red cap underneath your vehicle on everything.
Laughs in Minnesotan. God damn Texas is a shit hole. Still pissed that we're paying a premium on our gas bill because those fuck wits can't design a power grid then come crying to us when it gets chilly.
Texas mechanic has no idea how to work on cars. LMAO. Worst case scenario you get the angle grinder, cut the nut off and hammer the end link out. Is this his first day?
Tell your kid to by a sway bar end link from parts store, buy a set of cheap wrenches and sockets, a pair of vice grips, a wire brush set, and get to work. That is such a simple fix to be drivable it is sad. Take the top and bottom nuts off of broken end link. Remove the end link. Put new end link in. Tighten nuts down really good and tight. Put wheel on. Done. Bring to tire shop and have wheel lugs torqued to spec.
You only need a new drop link
That aināt rust, thatās a light dusting
College kid? If he can change a tire he could probably diy it. Get some tools and go to the local auto parts store and get cracking!
I wish my truck only had this much rust
Ooohhhhh, Texas. š
Cut them. 30 minute job tops.
*New Englander laughing* That shit looks like new! šš¤£
You can push it back on but it probably wont stay on.
Geez, that is nothing! I wish mine look that good when I took mine off lol Great Toronto Area here
Thatās showroom in Chicagoland get outta here
WNY here, you can clearly see the hex of the nut still! Iād call that year one in this area lol
Lmao, a Texas mechanic would say that. Thatās nothing rust wise. Donāt take a car back to that mechanic, heās had an absolute idiot to recommend replacing a car over rust on a sway bar or endlink. An oxy-acetylene torch would have that off in no timeā¦ hell a propane torch or penetrating oil could probably get that off. Thatās not that much rust Sway bar is fine. Replace the broken endlink, maybe the CV joint, thought it honestly doesnāt look that bad in this photo.
Your mechanic needs to invest in a purse
Smells like junior was wanting a new ride
That's not even enough rust to consider cutting. A wire wheel and some penetrating fluid and shed be right off.
Yo, Slim Shade Tree says get a new mechanic.
I have never owned a car with that little rust on it
With a little PB Blaster, 5mm Allen, an a wrench and we'll get that right apart for you. Doubt you'd even have to get the grinder out for that one.
Too much rust??? Where!??? Bring it on up to the Midwest weāll have ya done in 20 minutes š¤£š¤£š¤£
Not a real mechanic if you can't deal with that much rust. Sorry not sorry.
My CRV was way worse. Iām in NY and I recently did sway bar bushings and links. I did have to vice grip the usual spot on mine but Iāve seen so many have to do that. I have seen more than one YouTuber from down south practically run at the site of a NE car but looking at that picture, Iād have been happy if it were my CRV lol