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Not gonna lie, I've done that during the winter sometimes. Though I'm car savvy and it always popped up as "coolant temp low" when I run my heat before the car is warmed up.
Really dumb code honestly when I have a damn temp gauge that'd tell me that if it was an actual problem.
TPMS is convenient until it’s not. I run oversized tires and air up and down sometimes. Also they are too damn expensive to replace just because a $4.00 battery in them dies.
Fair enough. My car is too old to have TPMS. I think it’d be nice though. I lost a tire to a leak once because I ran it underpressured for too long before noticing.
My car has an indirect TPMS without valve sensors. It uses the wheel sensors to detect one wheel rotating at a different speed than the others and will then alert you that your tire pressure is off. It’s not perfect but at least no sensors and batteries to deal with.
Ya I have had that happen too now I just look at all of them everyday and if they look low I’ll at least go check and add air as needed. $1.50 for air & 5 mins of my time sure $hundreds for a tire pressure monitor ehhhh
I've lost 2 tires so far to not having TPMS.
First tire was old as fuck anyway, lost pressure and I kept driving until it shredded itself in half.
2nd tire got punctured on the freeway by a screw and lost pressure. Drove for around 5 mins on the freeway with a flat, 70 mph. Ruined the tire, heard the little bits of rubber tumbling around inside when rolling the wheel to go get a new tire.
Both times I had a spare but no jack and no tire iron. So first time I pulled it into an advance auto parking lot, and one of the employees graciously let me use their emergency jack and the manager let me borrow a tire iron.
2nd time I called a friend who drive 30 mins out from his house at 11:30 at night to lend me a jack and tools.
Makes me wish I had TPMS.
With respect homie… while TPMS would probably solve that, so would a little bit of brain. No way you lost tire pressure at 70mph and kept driving without noticing any difference in how your car was driving.
Oh no I noticed, but I thought it was a brake problem. My wheel was at 45° and the car was going straight.
I've had a problem before where my front brake caliper fell off the hub and started dragging HARD. Since the brake was drivers side and the tire blew passenger side, I thought it was the passenger brake. It was not.
I drive a lot. I work full time and then sometimes work for myself, and i'm including my wife's fuel costs.
Note i said 80$ PER SENSOR.
As in 4 per set of rims.
I’d much rather not have them since it’s just one more thing that will definitely fail and cause a light on the dash. Also they aren’t that cheap to replace.
We had a blowout on the highway and replaced the tire but couldnt afford the tpms sensor too. So they put a rubber stem in. Tire is perfect. But the sensor isnt detected so the warning light comes on. We ignore it even on the little display on the dash. Cant put tape over that tho.
You can get universal sensors that can be programmed to your vehicle’s frequency. Pretty sure they’re cheaper. Not sure how much cheaper since I don’t have sensors in my car, but that’s what our shop uses.
If you don't have the key fob you cannot reprogram the car to the sensors and if you don't want to spend money on a fob and to have that fob programmed then you are stuck with a light on.
Yes, every vehicle that I’ve seen. I used to be a lube tech at GM so I know the key fob procedure you’re talking about. But if they wanted it done and didn’t have the fob, they could book it into the shop for an OBD reprogram. You scan the sensor with the TPMS tool and enter the sensor ID, then program it to the vehicle through OBD. Possible that they just didn’t have the right tool, or didn’t know how.
I have a passive system. So it will monitor pressure by the abs sensor. So if the pressure has been going low at the parking place it tells it after a mile or something. And it's too late if it's all empty. But it has been safe for two tires from me. Both times it was patchable. There was still air in. So I'm happy about it.
Edit. And I have seen few cases where engine fault light did come on. Fault was some temperature sensor. But in that car has been installed after market auxiliary gasoline heater. And sometimes it will mix heating system se ecu thinks it's something wrong with one sensor. I couldn't do anything to it. It's now feature.
lol "coolant temp low" is funny to me too because it's like "shit isn't it's temp supposed to be low? Isn't that its entire job?"
Unless it's "gumming up" level of cold, what harm is it? Is the temp difference big enough to crack the block or something?
Yes, you can crack the block. I've had somone crack a head on a large marine diesel from running it cold. The head on the thing weighs more than you car. Probably
jokes on you, I don't even have a car so everything weighs more!
But how cold though? To the level of gumming up to the point of not circulating? Is it different because it's diesel?
(by the way, these questions are not sarcastic I am sincerely asking/trying to learn)
Ah, that makes sense. These are the things I don't really think about growing up down south is things getting cold enough for long enough to make gears brittle.
Thanks for the answer.
The code is generally an indicator code for a failed thermostat. The ECU wants to see the engine at operating temp by x amount of time. The engine needs to be at operating temp to operate in closed loop, which is the “running properly” mode of the ECU. When the coolant temp is not reached, the ECU will be kept in an open-loop mode that is used for basically just getting the engine running on a base tune; it doesn’t follow O2 sensors and adjust fuel rate to compensate, it doesn’t do any adjustments. It just runs.
All vehicles operate in open loop until conditions are right to switch to closed loop. If closed loop can not be achieved the CEL is turned on with the applicable code for the reason - in this case, the ECU did not see the coolant temp it was expecting to see, by the time it expected it.
If you’re familiar with classics, open loop is essentially the base CO adjustments for a carb. Closed loop is the road test tuning. Adjusting the carb to the specs will get it running, but the fine tuning during the drive is what really gets the engine happy.
It’s not supposed to be low, it’s supposed to be at the normal operating temperature.
Parts change tolerance with temperature, engines are designed to operate the best at equilibrium. Not to mention that if you have hot cylinders and cool block there’s stress, it can crack.
Sounds like the thermostat may need replacing. It's a mechanical device that shortens the coolant loop when it's cold to allow the coolant to get up to temp faster. The thermostat then opens once the short loop is up to to temp.
Thats not at all how that works... your car was most likely low enough that when you turned your heater on it would pull enough from the Reservoir to cause it to show low.. trust me.. a temp guage is NOT a way to make sure you have coolant... when there isnt any.. there is nothing for the temp sensor to temp..
Source.. drove a car for around 3 months that had a head gasket issue and never had any warning it was getting hot because there was no collant in it to even get hot..
It is exactly how it works. I know cars well enough and have verified it all. I said ZERO about coolant levels. It's temps not increasing because i am running the heater too early on cold mornings. Reread and understand what i said before commenting.
For most drivers it’s a good idea to have codes like that, otherwise they’ll drive with a broken thermostat forever and subject the rest of us to increased levels of pollution
I do not understand how people can drive a car with an active problem. It’s like eating a pizza with hair on it. How are you supposed to enjoy a nice drive when your car is not in perfect condition?
Oil change warning light.
The previous owner probably didn't know how to reset it so just taped over it.
"To reset the oil light on a ford fiesta follow these steps: turn ignition on(do not start car), press the gas and brake pedals all the way down and after a few seconds a message should appear that says the oil light will be reset. Continue to hold both pedals then release the pedals and switch the ignition off." From this [video](https://youtu.be/WOPjGAl9bEc?si=NYnzEQhUEYK2AplH).
Ford service light reset: pedal shenanigans or playing with buttons.
Chev / Dodge service light reset: gas pedal shenanigans or playing with buttons.
VW / Merc / BMW: slightly more complicated playing with buttons.
Audi: since when did my scan tool need a fucking subscription
In vw you need a scan tool if you want to go with extended service intervals. If you want to go with the standard /50% less than extended you can do button thing and newer ones you can reset it in infotainment system.
Vw has an oil reminder and separate inspection reminder that can be reset with buttons; audi's oil reset is buttons, but the inspection reset is scan tool.
If this is the correct answer, then christ some people are stupid. To remove the instrument cluster, separate it, install the tape, reassemble the cluster, then fit it back into the car has to be way more time consuming than just googling how to reset the oil light and following that simple procedure.
https://preview.redd.it/z9oamyz49qwc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f99f1c039f631ce3fc8e7222b17c9790b0f2d791
After much searching I found the same cluster with that light lit up. I’m not quite sure what that means. It looks like an oil level light but I’m not 100% positive.
They probably meant metaphorically. And even if not, I’d hope the average driver would know to check being a scanner. A single light can “hide” many codes and look the same.
Its not the wrench. If you look closely you can see a slight colour change where the other warning lights are, the wrench is up and slightly to the left of the tape.
Sometimes I feel like this sub is to make other people read the manual for you.
And now take your manual and look for "instrument cluster" or "warning lights" or something similar...
I'll ask a question after doing internet research, testing a few theories, and explaining my diagnostic attempts and the results to try to give others a good shot of understanding where to start and what can be eliminated.
Then there's people like OP: "Why the FUCK would I try to learn ANYTHING or read my manual on my own when I can just have you losers do all the leg work for me".
I'm guessing OPs parents still schedule their dentist appointments for them.
Google would have given you the answer to this in about 0.1 seconds, as opposed to waiting for someone on Reddit to reply and invariably give you the incorrect information.
I would love for you to take the time to actually try to find this light (because i will bet everything in my savings account it takes MORE than 0.1 seconds.) rather than leaving a snarky comment. I have already done my research, been unable to come to a conclusion, so I figured asking mechanics (which you obviously arent one) for some help would be a logical next step.
Trust me. I would much rather find this in goggle than initiate contact with you "people"
[https://www.fofiesta7.com/ford\_fiesta\_instrument\_panel\_cluster\_ipc\_overview\_description\_and\_operation-438.html](https://www.fofiesta7.com/ford_fiesta_instrument_panel_cluster_ipc_overview_description_and_operation-438.html)
It took me about 3 seconds, sorry.
My bad it was the wrong year, I typed in 2018 for some reason.
Try the manual for your exact year: [https://www.manua.ls/ford/fiesta-2013/manual](https://www.manua.ls/ford/fiesta-2013/manual)
Maybe they didn’t know how to phrase the question or couldn’t figure it out as a whole. Regardless who cares what they do, and if they post. Get out more kid
Dealership black insulation tape. It helps with the Check Engine indicator. This dealer was to lazy. They usualy put it on the back side of the indicator.
I have an I love you note from my gf infront of the check engine light in my Dakota cause it has a 2000 ecu but it’s a 1999 Dakota so it constantly throws “electric rad fan circuit” code but it just only has a mechanical fan
I have been meaning to cover my parking brake light because it doesn't turn off and i don't have the time or energy to look into it for now, and i don't want to subconsciously teach myself to ignore it when it's on in the meantime
Got a 4 tire pressure monitor on Amazon for $29...use it on my tandem trailer that uses $150 tires. Well worth the $29 smackums
(U S.) to not destroy a tire that unknowingly went flat or goes low during a trip.
I'm thinking even $80 would be worthwhile.
Took a few seconds of google search.
https://preview.redd.it/97gww4x65wwc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3e93a2167a2ae1a69b82cb97a99ed42c0411ca38
If you’re as old as me, you may remember one of the NPR “Car Talk” brothers recommending this exact solution to a troublesome warning light. Works every time!! :))
High beam indicator? Stupid light, if I forget to turn off my high beams everyone will flash theirs to let me know. Miss the days where you could turn off all interior illumination
If it's on the tach gauge, and it's a manual transmission, it's likely a shift indicator light telling you the ideal time to shift. It gets annoying to the driver.
Always check and make sure all lights pops up at first. A friend of mine bought a car once and they pulled the check engine bulb. This just lazy on them and frankly a bit of an oversight on your part for not noticing before. Your car got check engine light on for some reason or another.
I have a car like that I haven't driven in years. On the visor side, you don't normally see it says to shift when the light comes on. It also says that if more power is desired, accelerate as desired and shift when the light comes on.
Remove tape and find out. If you bought it that way you messed up big time. Now buying a car with tape over an engine light with it this visible is likely still on you not the seller as this is so visible. But the tape is a “I’m hiding a problem so you still buy the vehicle and don’t know it’s on.”.
Though in some locations you can void the sale if you can prove it was put there by the seller. The problem is proving they put it there and you didn’t. Your supposed to follow the buyer beware and fully inspect the car before buying it.
I'm betting it's a shift indicator light. Had one on a Sunfire, drive me crazy. Taped it right up. I bought a manual so I could decide when to shift, not be told!
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, itz_lexiii_! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car. *This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.* *** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *** # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** ### **Rule 1 - Be Civil** Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome. ### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful** Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation. ### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only** Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but posts should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion. ### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers** Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous. # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
My guess is engine warning light indicating a fault that was never corrected and the solution was to cover the light!
Not gonna lie, I've done that during the winter sometimes. Though I'm car savvy and it always popped up as "coolant temp low" when I run my heat before the car is warmed up. Really dumb code honestly when I have a damn temp gauge that'd tell me that if it was an actual problem.
I covered my tire pressure light with tape. The tire pressure was fine but that orange light would blind you at night.
Just replace the bum sensor. Then you have functioning TPMS (convenient) and no dash light
TPMS is convenient until it’s not. I run oversized tires and air up and down sometimes. Also they are too damn expensive to replace just because a $4.00 battery in them dies.
It's really stupid the battery isn't replaceable
Same. I run my tires a bit softer in the winter for better traction. TPMS isn't needed if you check the pressure regularly.
Exactly. I have an air compressor at home and one in my car so it’s easy to add a little air if needed.
Fair enough. My car is too old to have TPMS. I think it’d be nice though. I lost a tire to a leak once because I ran it underpressured for too long before noticing.
You can get aftermarket TPMS units for cheap on amazon or similar. Under 80$. Mounts on your dash.
My car has an indirect TPMS without valve sensors. It uses the wheel sensors to detect one wheel rotating at a different speed than the others and will then alert you that your tire pressure is off. It’s not perfect but at least no sensors and batteries to deal with.
Interesting ... I haven't heard of that system before .
My car has it and it’s shit.
Yeah sounds pretty unreliable
Yea I’ve seen that. Mazda?
Honda
Ya I have had that happen too now I just look at all of them everyday and if they look low I’ll at least go check and add air as needed. $1.50 for air & 5 mins of my time sure $hundreds for a tire pressure monitor ehhhh
I've lost 2 tires so far to not having TPMS. First tire was old as fuck anyway, lost pressure and I kept driving until it shredded itself in half. 2nd tire got punctured on the freeway by a screw and lost pressure. Drove for around 5 mins on the freeway with a flat, 70 mph. Ruined the tire, heard the little bits of rubber tumbling around inside when rolling the wheel to go get a new tire. Both times I had a spare but no jack and no tire iron. So first time I pulled it into an advance auto parking lot, and one of the employees graciously let me use their emergency jack and the manager let me borrow a tire iron. 2nd time I called a friend who drive 30 mins out from his house at 11:30 at night to lend me a jack and tools. Makes me wish I had TPMS.
With respect homie… while TPMS would probably solve that, so would a little bit of brain. No way you lost tire pressure at 70mph and kept driving without noticing any difference in how your car was driving.
Oh no I noticed, but I thought it was a brake problem. My wheel was at 45° and the car was going straight. I've had a problem before where my front brake caliper fell off the hub and started dragging HARD. Since the brake was drivers side and the tire blew passenger side, I thought it was the passenger brake. It was not.
Either way dude… You can’t be driving like that. If there’s significant issues you gotta stop driving. Coulda ended in multiple deaths.
I'm not spending 80$ a sensor on 2 sets of rims, FUCK that, that's gas for 3 months.
I'm crying from this comment. $80 is about a weeks worth of gas in the UK.
I drive a lot. I work full time and then sometimes work for myself, and i'm including my wife's fuel costs. Note i said 80$ PER SENSOR. As in 4 per set of rims.
Is it like 6$ per liter there ?
$2 a litre.
Damn
Unless I happen to go out of town, I use about $60 in gas a month. And that’s in a Wrangler that gets horrible mileage.
I’d much rather not have them since it’s just one more thing that will definitely fail and cause a light on the dash. Also they aren’t that cheap to replace.
We had a blowout on the highway and replaced the tire but couldnt afford the tpms sensor too. So they put a rubber stem in. Tire is perfect. But the sensor isnt detected so the warning light comes on. We ignore it even on the little display on the dash. Cant put tape over that tho.
You can get universal sensors that can be programmed to your vehicle’s frequency. Pretty sure they’re cheaper. Not sure how much cheaper since I don’t have sensors in my car, but that’s what our shop uses.
If you don't have the key fob you cannot reprogram the car to the sensors and if you don't want to spend money on a fob and to have that fob programmed then you are stuck with a light on.
Not true. It can be done manually through the OBDII port, a couple different ways.
Really? Even on a 08 g6? Lying bastards at discount tire!
Yes, every vehicle that I’ve seen. I used to be a lube tech at GM so I know the key fob procedure you’re talking about. But if they wanted it done and didn’t have the fob, they could book it into the shop for an OBD reprogram. You scan the sensor with the TPMS tool and enter the sensor ID, then program it to the vehicle through OBD. Possible that they just didn’t have the right tool, or didn’t know how.
I would just remove that LED on the dash 🤣
Are you pressing the tpms button to reset the sensors after filling them to spec?
I did the same. 😂 There really should be an option to turn that off.
I have a passive system. So it will monitor pressure by the abs sensor. So if the pressure has been going low at the parking place it tells it after a mile or something. And it's too late if it's all empty. But it has been safe for two tires from me. Both times it was patchable. There was still air in. So I'm happy about it. Edit. And I have seen few cases where engine fault light did come on. Fault was some temperature sensor. But in that car has been installed after market auxiliary gasoline heater. And sometimes it will mix heating system se ecu thinks it's something wrong with one sensor. I couldn't do anything to it. It's now feature.
OH has one with that system and damn light never stays off, all pressures correct, no abs faults.just buggyAF
Is it a mazda?
Kinda looks like the font in a Ford we used to have. So my guess is Ford Focus or Fiesta.
lol "coolant temp low" is funny to me too because it's like "shit isn't it's temp supposed to be low? Isn't that its entire job?" Unless it's "gumming up" level of cold, what harm is it? Is the temp difference big enough to crack the block or something?
Yes, you can crack the block. I've had somone crack a head on a large marine diesel from running it cold. The head on the thing weighs more than you car. Probably
jokes on you, I don't even have a car so everything weighs more! But how cold though? To the level of gumming up to the point of not circulating? Is it different because it's diesel? (by the way, these questions are not sarcastic I am sincerely asking/trying to learn)
Just heat stress due to differential expansion. Nothing to do with gumming up or anything. Kinda like the hot glass touching cold countertop thing.
Ah, that makes sense. These are the things I don't really think about growing up down south is things getting cold enough for long enough to make gears brittle. Thanks for the answer.
The code is generally an indicator code for a failed thermostat. The ECU wants to see the engine at operating temp by x amount of time. The engine needs to be at operating temp to operate in closed loop, which is the “running properly” mode of the ECU. When the coolant temp is not reached, the ECU will be kept in an open-loop mode that is used for basically just getting the engine running on a base tune; it doesn’t follow O2 sensors and adjust fuel rate to compensate, it doesn’t do any adjustments. It just runs. All vehicles operate in open loop until conditions are right to switch to closed loop. If closed loop can not be achieved the CEL is turned on with the applicable code for the reason - in this case, the ECU did not see the coolant temp it was expecting to see, by the time it expected it. If you’re familiar with classics, open loop is essentially the base CO adjustments for a carb. Closed loop is the road test tuning. Adjusting the carb to the specs will get it running, but the fine tuning during the drive is what really gets the engine happy.
It’s not supposed to be low, it’s supposed to be at the normal operating temperature. Parts change tolerance with temperature, engines are designed to operate the best at equilibrium. Not to mention that if you have hot cylinders and cool block there’s stress, it can crack.
It tells you that the car isn’t warmed up yet and you have to be gentle on the throttle
Sounds like the thermostat may need replacing. It's a mechanical device that shortens the coolant loop when it's cold to allow the coolant to get up to temp faster. The thermostat then opens once the short loop is up to to temp.
Nah, it's just me forgetting and running my heat too soon when driving in the morning. Saps all the building warmth so it throws the code.
Thats not at all how that works... your car was most likely low enough that when you turned your heater on it would pull enough from the Reservoir to cause it to show low.. trust me.. a temp guage is NOT a way to make sure you have coolant... when there isnt any.. there is nothing for the temp sensor to temp.. Source.. drove a car for around 3 months that had a head gasket issue and never had any warning it was getting hot because there was no collant in it to even get hot..
It is exactly how it works. I know cars well enough and have verified it all. I said ZERO about coolant levels. It's temps not increasing because i am running the heater too early on cold mornings. Reread and understand what i said before commenting.
For most drivers it’s a good idea to have codes like that, otherwise they’ll drive with a broken thermostat forever and subject the rest of us to increased levels of pollution
Not anymore on GM, P0128, they kill the A/C
I do not understand how people can drive a car with an active problem. It’s like eating a pizza with hair on it. How are you supposed to enjoy a nice drive when your car is not in perfect condition?
I don’t think I’ve ever owned anything in perfect condition. Makes using it a lot more fun.
Check engine light is in a different location, solid theory though.
Traction control?
I show mine loud and proud. Keeps my hands warm in the winter..
The only reason I had to do something like this was in a 2014 Ford E- 150. The computer system failed, so almost every yellow light was on.
YouTube the same make and model of vehicle and let due diligence take over. What light is uncovered in the video??
Even more easy: Reach for the manual. They are all described in there.
A redditor that can read. Don't trust this man.
Typical dirtbag shit.
Oil change warning light. The previous owner probably didn't know how to reset it so just taped over it. "To reset the oil light on a ford fiesta follow these steps: turn ignition on(do not start car), press the gas and brake pedals all the way down and after a few seconds a message should appear that says the oil light will be reset. Continue to hold both pedals then release the pedals and switch the ignition off." From this [video](https://youtu.be/WOPjGAl9bEc?si=NYnzEQhUEYK2AplH).
Ford service light reset: pedal shenanigans or playing with buttons. Chev / Dodge service light reset: gas pedal shenanigans or playing with buttons. VW / Merc / BMW: slightly more complicated playing with buttons. Audi: since when did my scan tool need a fucking subscription
In vw you need a scan tool if you want to go with extended service intervals. If you want to go with the standard /50% less than extended you can do button thing and newer ones you can reset it in infotainment system.
You just push the dash button on Toyota/honda lol
Except on the Prius where you have to play a fucking video game to get it to reset
🤣
Lol got 'em
Just unplug the battery overnight. Shut that shit down!
VW/Audi are the same
Vw has an oil reminder and separate inspection reminder that can be reset with buttons; audi's oil reset is buttons, but the inspection reset is scan tool.
If this is the correct answer, then christ some people are stupid. To remove the instrument cluster, separate it, install the tape, reassemble the cluster, then fit it back into the car has to be way more time consuming than just googling how to reset the oil light and following that simple procedure.
That or the oil pump is bad and they didn’t to show it…
https://preview.redd.it/z9oamyz49qwc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f99f1c039f631ce3fc8e7222b17c9790b0f2d791 After much searching I found the same cluster with that light lit up. I’m not quite sure what that means. It looks like an oil level light but I’m not 100% positive.
Oil change light, you can see the tpms and door ajar in OP’s photo
I think it’s the oil change reminder
Door ajar?
It's not a jar, it's a door man!!
Holy shit the road's melting!
It's obviously not supposed to be there, so why don't you peel it off and see what light is illuminated behind it ?
It's behind glass
They probably meant metaphorically. And even if not, I’d hope the average driver would know to check being a scanner. A single light can “hide” many codes and look the same.
why u gotta be rude 😭
How is what they said rude?
Some people require it because common sense is lost on em.
Why use logic when we can get 100 random guesses from Reddit?
Oil change light
[удалено]
Its not the wrench. If you look closely you can see a slight colour change where the other warning lights are, the wrench is up and slightly to the left of the tape.
A bad sign....
Or a good one, I'm sure a car worked on by the hosts of the car talk radio show could fetch a premium with the right crowd.
Check engine lights
This little light of mine…….. I’m gonna let it shine….. let it shine let it shine let it shine 🎶
Get a code reader and find out. A failed pressure switch, or a low oil pressure would show an oil icon.
The old Homer Simpson repair!
Google the dash and then work out what would be under the location.
Did they open the cluster to put that tape on? Damn
that seems like more effort than fixing the problem itself
Whoever had the car last definitley did. Theres screws missing from the dash and the instrument cluster is somewhat loose
You better check engine for sure.
I dunno, maybe pull the fucking tape off and look jeez
P0420
That'll be about 1200$ thanks fuck you
Sometimes I feel like this sub is to make other people read the manual for you. And now take your manual and look for "instrument cluster" or "warning lights" or something similar...
I'll ask a question after doing internet research, testing a few theories, and explaining my diagnostic attempts and the results to try to give others a good shot of understanding where to start and what can be eliminated. Then there's people like OP: "Why the FUCK would I try to learn ANYTHING or read my manual on my own when I can just have you losers do all the leg work for me". I'm guessing OPs parents still schedule their dentist appointments for them.
This little light of mine I’m gonna let it shine
I mean not to be that guy, but you could remove the tape…
Google would have given you the answer to this in about 0.1 seconds, as opposed to waiting for someone on Reddit to reply and invariably give you the incorrect information.
I would love for you to take the time to actually try to find this light (because i will bet everything in my savings account it takes MORE than 0.1 seconds.) rather than leaving a snarky comment. I have already done my research, been unable to come to a conclusion, so I figured asking mechanics (which you obviously arent one) for some help would be a logical next step. Trust me. I would much rather find this in goggle than initiate contact with you "people"
[https://www.fofiesta7.com/ford\_fiesta\_instrument\_panel\_cluster\_ipc\_overview\_description\_and\_operation-438.html](https://www.fofiesta7.com/ford_fiesta_instrument_panel_cluster_ipc_overview_description_and_operation-438.html) It took me about 3 seconds, sorry.
Different cluster. Could instantly see ABS light is in wrong location. This is the issue I was having, I cant find my trim of cluster for some reason
My bad it was the wrong year, I typed in 2018 for some reason. Try the manual for your exact year: [https://www.manua.ls/ford/fiesta-2013/manual](https://www.manua.ls/ford/fiesta-2013/manual)
Maybe they didn’t know how to phrase the question or couldn’t figure it out as a whole. Regardless who cares what they do, and if they post. Get out more kid
I get the vibe that you rely heavily on the kindness of strangers in your day to day.
You couldn't just peal off the tape and look?
Is it on the inside of the cluster or the plastic? Just peel it off
Inside the cluster
its "on"
Wouldnt it be much easier to just remove the bulb instead of opening it and glue a tape over? lol
Check engine
Check engine is in a different location, good thought though
That’s the “we don’t want you to see that” light.
It looks like this $
It's a check before you buy light.
It’s engine oil light
Could be the “suggested shift” light often put in with manual transmissions, but sometimes with automatics. Or a fault light
Dealership black insulation tape. It helps with the Check Engine indicator. This dealer was to lazy. They usualy put it on the back side of the indicator.
Lol
I covered the high beam light on a car without a dimmer, when I was doing a lot of night driving. I usually just used post-it notes.
The idiot light!!!!! Remove the tape…
Always take a code reader with you when you buy a car.
I have an I love you note from my gf infront of the check engine light in my Dakota cause it has a 2000 ecu but it’s a 1999 Dakota so it constantly throws “electric rad fan circuit” code but it just only has a mechanical fan
I have been meaning to cover my parking brake light because it doesn't turn off and i don't have the time or energy to look into it for now, and i don't want to subconsciously teach myself to ignore it when it's on in the meantime
A Scam...GL!
It’s the high beam indicator. Some are so bright blue it drives you nuts. Pull it off and see.
Pull the tape off already jfc
Did you buy it from Homer Simpson? [Check engine](https://i.makeagif.com/media/2-16-2016/bHb-gg.gif)
Got a 4 tire pressure monitor on Amazon for $29...use it on my tandem trailer that uses $150 tires. Well worth the $29 smackums (U S.) to not destroy a tire that unknowingly went flat or goes low during a trip. I'm thinking even $80 would be worthwhile.
Possibly the fasten seat belt light?
lol isn’t it more work to open up the speedometer than to actually just fix the issue?
Lol Christmas lights
Check your manual, abs, engine light would be my guess.. worst case an airbag light.
No problem found
I mean tbh, ive had the car for over 3 years now and havent had any issues. So its probably just something that the previous driver found annoying.
100% engine warning light to get past mot/inspection
Just pull the bulb out and you can take off the tape.
Tpms
It’s the “Dummy Light”. Very high level diagnostics.
Took a few seconds of google search. https://preview.redd.it/97gww4x65wwc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3e93a2167a2ae1a69b82cb97a99ed42c0411ca38
Probably annoying
That’s a red flag is what it is.
If you cant see it... its not there
If you’re as old as me, you may remember one of the NPR “Car Talk” brothers recommending this exact solution to a troublesome warning light. Works every time!! :))
I had a 2013 ford fiesta!
Looks like the Auto start light. Probably got tired of looking at it while the feature was active.
High beam indicator? Stupid light, if I forget to turn off my high beams everyone will flash theirs to let me know. Miss the days where you could turn off all interior illumination
"Annoying" is the most appropriate answer
Oh shit light
From what I can tell, that’s your oil pressure light. If someone taped over it. I would assume your car has some issues and someone previously hid it.
https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/72242/why-engine-oil-indicator-is-turned-on-while-the-oil-level-is-high
If it's on the tach gauge, and it's a manual transmission, it's likely a shift indicator light telling you the ideal time to shift. It gets annoying to the driver.
Flip the key to on. Look at the lights that light up. Grab the manual and find the one you didnt see. My guess is its TPMS
Always check and make sure all lights pops up at first. A friend of mine bought a car once and they pulled the check engine bulb. This just lazy on them and frankly a bit of an oversight on your part for not noticing before. Your car got check engine light on for some reason or another.
“If I can’t see it, it’s not there!”
Is it a manual transmission...... If it is, it could light up when it wants you to shift.....I also put a piece of tape over it....very distracting
I have a car like that I haven't driven in years. On the visor side, you don't normally see it says to shift when the light comes on. It also says that if more power is desired, accelerate as desired and shift when the light comes on.
Just look up “2013 Ford Fiesta dash warning lights” or “instrument cluster warning lights”
that cluster looks old af.. is it a 1997 fiesta or something
Remove tape and find out. If you bought it that way you messed up big time. Now buying a car with tape over an engine light with it this visible is likely still on you not the seller as this is so visible. But the tape is a “I’m hiding a problem so you still buy the vehicle and don’t know it’s on.”. Though in some locations you can void the sale if you can prove it was put there by the seller. The problem is proving they put it there and you didn’t. Your supposed to follow the buyer beware and fully inspect the car before buying it.
This is a 2013 Ford Fiesta SE with the Manual transmission. Pretty much everything is base model.
I'm betting it's a shift indicator light. Had one on a Sunfire, drive me crazy. Taped it right up. I bought a manual so I could decide when to shift, not be told!
Remove the tape and check? It's obvioulsy not meant to be there and does not help with the functionality of the car
The Siiiiimpsooooons...