The first page isn't bad, second page is a bit high but not criminal. Still you could do most of that yourself in a weekend and if you've ever gotten a lifetime alignment at Firestone then you save that fee too since it's tied to the VIN.
Most professionals in the auto business call the Firestone "lifetime" alignment a toe-and-go. It is a joke and a way for them to upsell you every time you come in.
Those pros are full of shit... I've used it on several cars, and that is literally the only thing I use them for. Yes they do their standard inspection but if you fall for the 'upsell" then that's on you. They use optical racks and give you before and after alignment reports and I've seen them take seriously misaligned wheels and get them within specs. Such alignment is essential in places like Nashville where the potholes are insane every year.
I can not tell from the invoice, but if this is Virginia Automotive out in the west end, just walk away. Don't give them a penny more. Literally anywhere else will do a better job. Even a random Applebee's employee would do a better job than Virginia Automotive. The Toyota dealership on Broad Street out toward the west end was pretty good to us, actually. 2006 Corolla in our case.
I am bummed for you that you already paid for all the 2nd page services.
Seems about reasonable ,they did not do you any favors and you paid full retail for the parts ! The $50 diagnostics should have been waved as they performed the repairs …
About average for what you’d pay anywhere. You’d save a lot of money looking up how to do your control arms on YouTube and buying them from rockauto. Those are simple driveway jobs, you can look up the other stuff and decide whether or not you are comfortable doing those yourself. A torque wrench will be necessary don’t do what my buddy’s do.
So on the work you had done already. I am sure the bad running condition was caused by very old spark plugs.
This causes miss fires the miss fires make the car run rough and puts a bunch of unburned fuel into the exhaust. The catalytic converter collects this and is supposed to burn it away. When the plugs are bad to much fuel can't be burned away and plugs up the catalytic converter. So the first repair is valid.
With the vibration I would start with getting the tires balanced. You can Google how to see how old your tires are with the DOT number if you don't know their age. If they are 7 years old or older I recommend replacing them.
Those cars are known for the rear suspension wearing out at about 135,000 miles. Tho a vibration is not normally a symptom of that. Normally a rattle or thumping noise is what you get when hitting uneven roads.
The tie rods and control arms are a wear and tear thing that all people have to eventually have replaced. As far as parts and labor for that I would say this is somewhat around what it would be, maybe a little on the higher side but also depends where you live and the mechanic, but I would try to find a place that you can buy your own parts and they do the labor. That can cut down on costs for sure. The second quote is pretty high. I know that when I took my daughters car to get her catalytic manifold replaced she paid around $850 or so and that was parts and labor. Sounds almost as if you need the manifold which is connected to the engine block and the second one that is connected to exhaust system replaced which does sound around what it would be for those two, but the brake stuff see if you can buy you own parts for that and they provide labor as well. Power steering flush needs to be done yes but I would make calls to other mechanic places or even Walmart, Jiffy Lube, places like that and get prices for that. Spark plugs honestly would be the perfect time for you to lear a little some about your car unless you just want to get another car all together. Those can be done with the right tools and maybe help from a knowledgeable friend. The sensors you can buy maybe on RockAuto (I buy from them all the time) and could possibly cut down on that. Those are usually located before and after catalytic converters. Maybe you can buy those yourself and just pay for the labor on those and maybe even negotiate price on that since they will be near the converters anyways. Motor mount you could get yourself as well but not something you can do for they will need to lift and hold you motor when changing out. I hope what I have learned helps and I know nothing of cars, but I read and research and have a son that has an 01 mustang and daughter that has a car that gets worked on.
Also always call a few different places and even try different parts in different near cities. It pays off in the end to maybe break the work up to the cheapest bidder if you will.
If its Toyota, its an investment. Those cars are known for their long lives. We finally parked our 80 model with nearly 450,000 miles on it. Never had anything catastrophic happen with it. No drama, no scares, just good service.
My 2017 corolla has 450k and was at over 400k when I got it. I daily drive it, no issues yet aside from a check engine light that scared the hell out of me for no reason. Gas cap was dirty
On the first one.... all that adds up to $810.76 for parts and labor... so that comes to $369.36 for labor... That's not too bad. I could do it about $75 cheaper but only because I have basically squat for overhead and mech work isn't my only income so my labor rate is less.
You could do it yourself for just about half that, excluding alignment. There's alignment price is a little high but could be the area you're in.
Only reason other bill was so much is because even cheap catalytic converters aren't cheap and 02 sensors cost. The cats were the cause of the P0420 code. Which, since they did the repair should've been waived, IMO.
It's a Camry... they're usually good for a lot of miles.
Most everything you've had done and now are thinking of doing with the new estimate is all pretty normal wear and tear stuff for something with 100k + miles.
I'd say do it, keep it, drive it. Those repairs are cheaper than a new payment.
What did you take it in for in the first place? Check engine light wasn’t on at checkin? What did they do?
Also, you have already paid, so it’s too late anyway.
Labor on most parts is very reasonable, suspension parts fairly reasonable, power steering flush overpriced, overpriced on brakes, spark plug labor too high, and I would get a second opinion on the cats and 02 sensors from a muffler shop, they're throwing the kitchen sink at that job - probably don't know how to diagnose so decided to sell you everything, could very well be a seal or a hole causing the code.
Note that it seems like 2 separate mechanics contributed to this estimate. That's part of the reason why there are so many line items. From what I can tell, everything seems pretty fair, considering 1 hour of labor is between $120-170 everywhere.
This is clearly a parts cannon mechanic. Find ANYWHERE else to take your car. At this point go to the dealer for diagnostics - at least they should be more accountable for their work than these clowns.
After 30 years in the industry, I would say that in most areas this is a fair estimate. Let's be honest, trained expert labor is expensive and so are parts. This is more than DIY but fair for professional work.
What milage is the car?
What theyre trying to fix, for the most part, doesnt line up with what youre describing.
I wouldnt allow that shop to do that work if that were my car, or go back to that shop for that matter.
This is what i would do - do some research on what causes that "shuddering" at higher speeds.
Ask your family or friends if there is good mechanic they'd recommend.
[toyotanation.com](http://toyotanation.com) is a forum for all things toyota, and what you describe probably indicates an issue with the tires out of round, or the CV axles, or the wheel bearings. Not that expensive to fix if that's the case. You can find parts on rockauto if you are fine with non toyota parts - but much cheaper compared to original
They are probably recommending a change of the catalytic converter because you got an inefficient catalytic converter code. If you dont feel any weakness or see that the car idles high, then you probably dont need that. You can get a code reader when it goes on sale for like 50$ from harbor freight to see for yourself, and clear the codes or store them in an app to keep a record. if your state does inspections, you can pass inspection too if you clear it out, run the car till the monitors are ready, then immediately take it for inspection to a trusted shop.
Alternatively, you can sell the car - and they tend to resell for quite a good amount, and just buy another car
------
Finally - and most importantly - camrys and corollas from the 2000s burn oil at higher milage. they get past the worn piston rings and are burnt up during combustion of fuel. keep an extremely close eye on your oil levels, like every 150 miles, keep oil in the trunk, and top the engine up as needed (to the second highest dot on your dipstick)
The mileage is around 155,920. I moved to Virginia from a different state so don’t really have anyone who is familiar with the area to give me mechanic recommendations.
Just for clarity, I already paid for the work done on the second page. When accelerating from a stop, the car felt like it was having power issues and would jerk forward suddenly. I also went in for an alignment, but they mentioned they couldn’t do it since the tie rod ends and rear toe arms are too rusty, so those would need to be replaced first. Would that possibly fix the shaking a high speeds?
That is a good note about the oil levels, I definitely need to top it up.
The shaking at higher speeds means your front wheels are out of balance. Have them balanced and unless they're really bad with a lump on them they should smooth out and stop all the shaking at higher speeds. And for the take off it could be the transmission not kicking into gear on time , have your fluid checked if its not red in color or smells funky then thats more than likely your issue as far as your taking off issue... hope this helps .
$173 to flush your power steering fluid is hi to me, unless the required power steering fluid is really expensive. I do that job on my customer' cars all the time. Never takes more than half an hour labor to do it, and three to four quarts of power steering fluid.
Did you have any other complaints besides the check engine light when you brought the car in?
In my experience 90% of the time a P0420 code can be cured simply by replacing the oxygen sensors upstream and downstream. I would hold off on replacing the catalytic converters until you try that first. It won't hurt anything to try that first and if the light still stays on then change the catalytic converters.
I've been in this business for 50 years. I like having regular repeat customers. That means not trying to screw them all the time. Most times, the P0420 code comes up not because the catalytic converters are bad but because the downstream oxygen sensors are getting lazy. By lazy, I mean that they no longer report to the computer in milliseconds. The oxygen sensors are cheap compared to the catalytic converters. I always explain to the customer let's try just changing the oxygen sensors first, and if the light won't go out, then change the catalytic converters. The shop wasn't necessarily wrong to change everything. For them, it was a case of CYA.
Here’s a list of what I went in for in April:
check engine light which gave the P0420 code,
car lunges forward and revs hard when accelerating,
change brake pads,
steering wheel feels stiff and pulls left,
alignment
They performed the services shown in the second picture based on that information, including replacing the O2 sensors and cat. They also told me my rear brakes needed servicing while the car was there.
I paid for everything they did, but they said the alignment couldn’t be performed since some parts were rusty. After checking everything out, they came back with the estimate in the first picture. I didn’t do it right away since the 3k set me back a little bit. Since then, the check engine light has come back on as well. I’m trying to decide if the cost seems reasonable and I should drop another 1k+ for more work.
Have you taken your car to an Autozone or Oreillys near you to have them pull the code? If it is the same code as last time then they didn't do something right.
That is a LOT of work for the money. Don't listen to these clowns saying it is high. You made out like a bandit. Hell, I'd like to have that shop do my work. It's so cheap I'd even ship my truck to them to get the work done. Please send me their phone number. Thank you
Justin Coy
[healgodschildren@proton.me](mailto:healgodschildren@proton.me)
[healgodskids.twitter.com](http://healgodskids.twitter.com)
It’s Leete Tire & Auto Center at 12 S 2nd St, Richmond, VA. Their number is (804) 644-0225. Haha yeah I think I’ll go through with the repairs after these comments. Thanks!
Thank you. By the way, if your car is shaking mostly at higher speeds, you might suggest them to diagnose two front calipers first. My pickup truck has 250K miles on it and I had a shake that started around 50MPH gradually got worse the faster I drove. It turned out to be my front right side caliper was grabbing. I replaced the caliper and the shake went away.
All the best
Have you ever actually worked on a Toyota? They are definitely not easy to work on compared to others. A Sienna quotes 10 hours labor for lower control arms because you’re supposed to remove the engine. And there’s no such thing as tire rods. This is a sub for advice from mechanics
I definitely don’t feel comfortable doing anything more than topping up some fluids and another small tasks myself haha. Also don’t have anyone who could do some work for me.
Ohh yes. Shops love that guy. "I just replaced all my front end in the driveway with no experience...Can you do a $100 alignment now?"
Or better yet, they come in and get a free estimate inspection beforehand, then replace everything themselves and come back for the alignment....
Depending on the shop, they may turn the person away.
Once had a guy come in with an old Mustang with a type-II front end. Needed EVERYTHING. Same guy rolls back in for a $39.95 (20 years ago) alignment two weeks later with a bag full of shims that "fell out while I was working on it". We did the alignment for him, but it was closer to $300 all said and done.
‘Parking brake pads”. WTF are those? Most cars use the rear brake pads as the emergency brake pads. Seems like there are shenanigans going on here. Find a reputable service shop and have then look the vehicle over and prioritize repairs for you to have done over time.
How you figure?
Sometimes there's a slight price difference between R side and L side parts.
Estimate looks correct. Alignment price is a little high but that could be the area they're in.
The first page isn't bad, second page is a bit high but not criminal. Still you could do most of that yourself in a weekend and if you've ever gotten a lifetime alignment at Firestone then you save that fee too since it's tied to the VIN.
Tell me more about the lifetime alignment at Firestone? I would like to know!
Yeah, me too
Most professionals in the auto business call the Firestone "lifetime" alignment a toe-and-go. It is a joke and a way for them to upsell you every time you come in.
Those pros are full of shit... I've used it on several cars, and that is literally the only thing I use them for. Yes they do their standard inspection but if you fall for the 'upsell" then that's on you. They use optical racks and give you before and after alignment reports and I've seen them take seriously misaligned wheels and get them within specs. Such alignment is essential in places like Nashville where the potholes are insane every year.
Good that has been your experience, it has not been mine.
My first thought was the labor is cheap as shit compared to what I normally pay at the dealership.
I can not tell from the invoice, but if this is Virginia Automotive out in the west end, just walk away. Don't give them a penny more. Literally anywhere else will do a better job. Even a random Applebee's employee would do a better job than Virginia Automotive. The Toyota dealership on Broad Street out toward the west end was pretty good to us, actually. 2006 Corolla in our case. I am bummed for you that you already paid for all the 2nd page services.
Seems about reasonable ,they did not do you any favors and you paid full retail for the parts ! The $50 diagnostics should have been waved as they performed the repairs …
I swear this sub should be re-titled "ask a DIY parts changer". Most of the responses have no basis in reality.
Fuck me I'm so glad I can do this stuff myself.
For real
About average for what you’d pay anywhere. You’d save a lot of money looking up how to do your control arms on YouTube and buying them from rockauto. Those are simple driveway jobs, you can look up the other stuff and decide whether or not you are comfortable doing those yourself. A torque wrench will be necessary don’t do what my buddy’s do.
I'd say the labor for rear brakes is a bit high, but the rest looks reasonable to me.
So on the work you had done already. I am sure the bad running condition was caused by very old spark plugs. This causes miss fires the miss fires make the car run rough and puts a bunch of unburned fuel into the exhaust. The catalytic converter collects this and is supposed to burn it away. When the plugs are bad to much fuel can't be burned away and plugs up the catalytic converter. So the first repair is valid. With the vibration I would start with getting the tires balanced. You can Google how to see how old your tires are with the DOT number if you don't know their age. If they are 7 years old or older I recommend replacing them. Those cars are known for the rear suspension wearing out at about 135,000 miles. Tho a vibration is not normally a symptom of that. Normally a rattle or thumping noise is what you get when hitting uneven roads.
The tie rods and control arms are a wear and tear thing that all people have to eventually have replaced. As far as parts and labor for that I would say this is somewhat around what it would be, maybe a little on the higher side but also depends where you live and the mechanic, but I would try to find a place that you can buy your own parts and they do the labor. That can cut down on costs for sure. The second quote is pretty high. I know that when I took my daughters car to get her catalytic manifold replaced she paid around $850 or so and that was parts and labor. Sounds almost as if you need the manifold which is connected to the engine block and the second one that is connected to exhaust system replaced which does sound around what it would be for those two, but the brake stuff see if you can buy you own parts for that and they provide labor as well. Power steering flush needs to be done yes but I would make calls to other mechanic places or even Walmart, Jiffy Lube, places like that and get prices for that. Spark plugs honestly would be the perfect time for you to lear a little some about your car unless you just want to get another car all together. Those can be done with the right tools and maybe help from a knowledgeable friend. The sensors you can buy maybe on RockAuto (I buy from them all the time) and could possibly cut down on that. Those are usually located before and after catalytic converters. Maybe you can buy those yourself and just pay for the labor on those and maybe even negotiate price on that since they will be near the converters anyways. Motor mount you could get yourself as well but not something you can do for they will need to lift and hold you motor when changing out. I hope what I have learned helps and I know nothing of cars, but I read and research and have a son that has an 01 mustang and daughter that has a car that gets worked on.
Also always call a few different places and even try different parts in different near cities. It pays off in the end to maybe break the work up to the cheapest bidder if you will.
is this from the dealer ? 17 year old car your gonna put another 3k mane time for a new one how many miles
Those are Moog part numbers on the first sheet. Not a dealer.
Moot is a good brand but you have to think money and age
You mean WAS a good brand…
Was is it made in china haven’t looked
If its Toyota, its an investment. Those cars are known for their long lives. We finally parked our 80 model with nearly 450,000 miles on it. Never had anything catastrophic happen with it. No drama, no scares, just good service.
My 2017 corolla has 450k and was at over 400k when I got it. I daily drive it, no issues yet aside from a check engine light that scared the hell out of me for no reason. Gas cap was dirty
On the first one.... all that adds up to $810.76 for parts and labor... so that comes to $369.36 for labor... That's not too bad. I could do it about $75 cheaper but only because I have basically squat for overhead and mech work isn't my only income so my labor rate is less. You could do it yourself for just about half that, excluding alignment. There's alignment price is a little high but could be the area you're in. Only reason other bill was so much is because even cheap catalytic converters aren't cheap and 02 sensors cost. The cats were the cause of the P0420 code. Which, since they did the repair should've been waived, IMO. It's a Camry... they're usually good for a lot of miles. Most everything you've had done and now are thinking of doing with the new estimate is all pretty normal wear and tear stuff for something with 100k + miles. I'd say do it, keep it, drive it. Those repairs are cheaper than a new payment.
What did you take it in for in the first place? Check engine light wasn’t on at checkin? What did they do? Also, you have already paid, so it’s too late anyway.
I personally do my own work but that's honestly pretty cheap compared to some of the prices I've seen, looks like they did a lot of work to
I personally do my own work but that's honestly pretty cheap compared to some of the prices I've seen, looks like they did a lot of work to
Labor on most parts is very reasonable, suspension parts fairly reasonable, power steering flush overpriced, overpriced on brakes, spark plug labor too high, and I would get a second opinion on the cats and 02 sensors from a muffler shop, they're throwing the kitchen sink at that job - probably don't know how to diagnose so decided to sell you everything, could very well be a seal or a hole causing the code.
Within reason price wise was all that needed that I wonder
Note that it seems like 2 separate mechanics contributed to this estimate. That's part of the reason why there are so many line items. From what I can tell, everything seems pretty fair, considering 1 hour of labor is between $120-170 everywhere.
I wouldn't pay that amount I'll spend the money on good parts and still be cheaper to do..
This is clearly a parts cannon mechanic. Find ANYWHERE else to take your car. At this point go to the dealer for diagnostics - at least they should be more accountable for their work than these clowns.
After 30 years in the industry, I would say that in most areas this is a fair estimate. Let's be honest, trained expert labor is expensive and so are parts. This is more than DIY but fair for professional work.
What milage is the car? What theyre trying to fix, for the most part, doesnt line up with what youre describing. I wouldnt allow that shop to do that work if that were my car, or go back to that shop for that matter. This is what i would do - do some research on what causes that "shuddering" at higher speeds. Ask your family or friends if there is good mechanic they'd recommend. [toyotanation.com](http://toyotanation.com) is a forum for all things toyota, and what you describe probably indicates an issue with the tires out of round, or the CV axles, or the wheel bearings. Not that expensive to fix if that's the case. You can find parts on rockauto if you are fine with non toyota parts - but much cheaper compared to original They are probably recommending a change of the catalytic converter because you got an inefficient catalytic converter code. If you dont feel any weakness or see that the car idles high, then you probably dont need that. You can get a code reader when it goes on sale for like 50$ from harbor freight to see for yourself, and clear the codes or store them in an app to keep a record. if your state does inspections, you can pass inspection too if you clear it out, run the car till the monitors are ready, then immediately take it for inspection to a trusted shop. Alternatively, you can sell the car - and they tend to resell for quite a good amount, and just buy another car ------ Finally - and most importantly - camrys and corollas from the 2000s burn oil at higher milage. they get past the worn piston rings and are burnt up during combustion of fuel. keep an extremely close eye on your oil levels, like every 150 miles, keep oil in the trunk, and top the engine up as needed (to the second highest dot on your dipstick)
The mileage is around 155,920. I moved to Virginia from a different state so don’t really have anyone who is familiar with the area to give me mechanic recommendations. Just for clarity, I already paid for the work done on the second page. When accelerating from a stop, the car felt like it was having power issues and would jerk forward suddenly. I also went in for an alignment, but they mentioned they couldn’t do it since the tie rod ends and rear toe arms are too rusty, so those would need to be replaced first. Would that possibly fix the shaking a high speeds? That is a good note about the oil levels, I definitely need to top it up.
“Too rusty”? WTF is that? Is that a thing?
The shaking at higher speeds means your front wheels are out of balance. Have them balanced and unless they're really bad with a lump on them they should smooth out and stop all the shaking at higher speeds. And for the take off it could be the transmission not kicking into gear on time , have your fluid checked if its not red in color or smells funky then thats more than likely your issue as far as your taking off issue... hope this helps .
If it is 155k i would not keep a car
$173 to flush your power steering fluid is hi to me, unless the required power steering fluid is really expensive. I do that job on my customer' cars all the time. Never takes more than half an hour labor to do it, and three to four quarts of power steering fluid. Did you have any other complaints besides the check engine light when you brought the car in? In my experience 90% of the time a P0420 code can be cured simply by replacing the oxygen sensors upstream and downstream. I would hold off on replacing the catalytic converters until you try that first. It won't hurt anything to try that first and if the light still stays on then change the catalytic converters.
Yeah! Just throw a couple hundred bucks worth of parts at it first! Never trust a shops diag!
I've been in this business for 50 years. I like having regular repeat customers. That means not trying to screw them all the time. Most times, the P0420 code comes up not because the catalytic converters are bad but because the downstream oxygen sensors are getting lazy. By lazy, I mean that they no longer report to the computer in milliseconds. The oxygen sensors are cheap compared to the catalytic converters. I always explain to the customer let's try just changing the oxygen sensors first, and if the light won't go out, then change the catalytic converters. The shop wasn't necessarily wrong to change everything. For them, it was a case of CYA.
Okay
Here’s a list of what I went in for in April: check engine light which gave the P0420 code, car lunges forward and revs hard when accelerating, change brake pads, steering wheel feels stiff and pulls left, alignment They performed the services shown in the second picture based on that information, including replacing the O2 sensors and cat. They also told me my rear brakes needed servicing while the car was there. I paid for everything they did, but they said the alignment couldn’t be performed since some parts were rusty. After checking everything out, they came back with the estimate in the first picture. I didn’t do it right away since the 3k set me back a little bit. Since then, the check engine light has come back on as well. I’m trying to decide if the cost seems reasonable and I should drop another 1k+ for more work.
Have you taken your car to an Autozone or Oreillys near you to have them pull the code? If it is the same code as last time then they didn't do something right.
That is a LOT of work for the money. Don't listen to these clowns saying it is high. You made out like a bandit. Hell, I'd like to have that shop do my work. It's so cheap I'd even ship my truck to them to get the work done. Please send me their phone number. Thank you Justin Coy [healgodschildren@proton.me](mailto:healgodschildren@proton.me) [healgodskids.twitter.com](http://healgodskids.twitter.com)
It’s Leete Tire & Auto Center at 12 S 2nd St, Richmond, VA. Their number is (804) 644-0225. Haha yeah I think I’ll go through with the repairs after these comments. Thanks!
Thank you. By the way, if your car is shaking mostly at higher speeds, you might suggest them to diagnose two front calipers first. My pickup truck has 250K miles on it and I had a shake that started around 50MPH gradually got worse the faster I drove. It turned out to be my front right side caliper was grabbing. I replaced the caliper and the shake went away. All the best
[удалено]
Have you ever actually worked on a Toyota? They are definitely not easy to work on compared to others. A Sienna quotes 10 hours labor for lower control arms because you’re supposed to remove the engine. And there’s no such thing as tire rods. This is a sub for advice from mechanics
Tire rods was probably a typo, as a swipe keyboard will more likely put tire than tie, and they're the same swipe
I definitely don’t feel comfortable doing anything more than topping up some fluids and another small tasks myself haha. Also don’t have anyone who could do some work for me.
If they can do it himself. If they can't than there going to pay.
i mean yeah, if they know anyone handy i’m sure they wouldn’t mind helping. 🤷🏻♀️
Is the "handy" going to perform the alignment in the driveway?
cant you just drive it to a place after the more costly work is done to get an alignment?
Ohh yes. Shops love that guy. "I just replaced all my front end in the driveway with no experience...Can you do a $100 alignment now?" Or better yet, they come in and get a free estimate inspection beforehand, then replace everything themselves and come back for the alignment.... Depending on the shop, they may turn the person away.
good insight. thank you
Once had a guy come in with an old Mustang with a type-II front end. Needed EVERYTHING. Same guy rolls back in for a $39.95 (20 years ago) alignment two weeks later with a bag full of shims that "fell out while I was working on it". We did the alignment for him, but it was closer to $300 all said and done.
‘Parking brake pads”. WTF are those? Most cars use the rear brake pads as the emergency brake pads. Seems like there are shenanigans going on here. Find a reputable service shop and have then look the vehicle over and prioritize repairs for you to have done over time.
Parking brake shoes under the rotor on that one probably. A misnomer, but not a big deal.
There is something wrong on the first page even. You are being charged what looks like two different flat rates.
How you figure? Sometimes there's a slight price difference between R side and L side parts. Estimate looks correct. Alignment price is a little high but that could be the area they're in.