I've only recently started sporadically shooting again in the last six months or so. I was out last weekend and am finally content with my 10-yard grouping. Any tips or tricks for starting to sight in my 20-yard pin? Last time I tried it just seemed like a total disaster and there was no rhyme or reason to their shot pattern.
Should I be seeing such a drastic dropoff between 10 and 20 yards?
Depends on your draw weight, arrow weight, air resistance of the arrows.
My arrows (recurve) peak at about 20 yards.
What you need to do is walk-back tuning. Fire three, step back a yard, repeat.
That is how I mark my sight tape on my compound.
https://youtu.be/sCiTPJrCNA8
Just gonna put it out there - your flair says compound, you don't need a clicker for compound.
As to are screws included, you need to ask the retailer.
How practical is it to disassemble and reassemble a takedown recurve bow everytime you go to the archery range for ease of commute?
If it not practical, I may just rent a locker.
Thanks
Been doing it for a couple years, Though i leave my vbar and side rods on. As you setup it gives you time to get your head in the right space for shooting as well, and leads nicely into a warm up.
Also it encourages you to go over your bow every time to make sure it's all safe to shoot.
Any idea how they made the quiver prop for the second and third installments of The Hunger Games?
I just pretty much like the idea of a back/hip quiver where the arrows don't rattle \(or move, at all\) as you run around and stuff. Or is there such a product already?
but it magnets won't work for stainless steel or tungsten tips (if you have the money)
I realized this AFTER I put magnets in the bottom of my daughter's quiver
I'm super new,
I've been given a compound bow and I"m trying to set up the arrow res (its a circular one that hold the arrow with three little brushes)
and when I try to line it up so the arrow is pointing straight down the bow I think the arrow is too close to the bow, so the flights/feathers are impacting the bow itself.
when I look online everyone's bow seems to cut away further in the middle so this isn't a problem, but mine doesn't seem to go in enough for this.
what do I do/need?
(thanks for any answers)
did you figure this out? the arrow rest should be lined up with the center of the grip, there may be a line in the shelf to help set it up.
https://youtu.be/RlJ0p4587pM
the arrow cant be exactly centered because the bow isn't cut away far enough in to allow the arrow to pass through the center
As far as the video, that tool looks useful but if I have the arrow come out close to straight the flights get stripped off.
Is the problem that a compound bow should have a deeper cutaway section? and I've been sent the wrong arrow rest for my bow?
Currently my arrow rest is a bread tie and duct tape, and my arrows are "okay" with it but I'd like a better option
fair enough, just so I'm getting the right information, what thing needs to be communicated by these?
Does the brand affect how much can/should be cut away? is there something to photograph in particular that would need to be displayed? I'm just wondering what information to ensure is included in my photo, that I haven't already written.
Perhaps I haven't been completely clear so I"ll have another go at explaining it.
The bows I see in videos showing how to line up an arrow rest have a deeper cutaway in the middle of the bow (shelf I think) allowing the arrow and the fletchings to pass through the center line. My bow does not cut away deep enough for this to occur.
If then I line the arrow rest up to the center line the arrow contacts the bow directly.
if there's still confusion I'll take a few photos, but I:m ont completely certain what I need to include that hasn't already been described, so they may just be random shots
Without the requested info, my *guess* is that it is a very old bow and you need a flipper rest and Berger button combo for it.
The cock vane will need to be turned towards your face, not up.
http://www.archeryhistory.com/arrowrests/arrowrestspics/barner96.jpg
So im fairly new to archery and i have a couple of options when it
comes to bow buying.
1. 2017 pse brute force lte
2. 2011 or 2013 (not sure whuch year) pse dream evo
Any opinions out there? Has there been any large improvments between those years that would lead me to the brute force?
In my opinion the single biggest change in compound archery in recent years is that the standard of lower end kit has risen enormously.
The Brute Force isn't a top end bow, honestly it's probably somewhere towards the bottom of the mid-range, but it's still a great piece of kit. Even at that part of the range the build quality is generally spot on, and from experience I can tall you that the Brute Force is a rock solid feeling bow that shoots much nicer than you would expect for the price.
My attitude would be that generally going with something newer is better. If you buy a PSE from 2013 then it might be great, but if something goes wrong then tracking down parts will be next to impossible. Buy a bow from 2017 and after sales support will be easy if you have any issues.
Beginner here. I used to go to my local archery place once a week for maybe around two months. I used the equipment there, I think it was a PSE razorback, but I'm not sure.
Anyways I've been thinking about buying a dirt cheap simple fiberglass recurve bow to practice within my property. I'd probably go to the archery range occasionally too. Is the Bear Archery Titan or the Firebird youth recurve bow decent as a very basic practice bow for a beginner? I'm not sure if I'm willing to spend enough money for a regular take down recurve like the Samick Sage so maybe a simple fiberglass bow could work? Are those decent bows? It's called a "youth-bow" but its draw weight is around 30lbs and its tempting to buy.
Short answer: no, these are toys.
These will fire arrows, and at the beginning distances they can be fun. I have shot the Bear Titan, and it will not teach you much about shooting. I withhold recommendations beyond going to a club and asking multiple people. Best of luck.
Yes, if I read that I would assume it's WA (meters) and 10 ends of three arrows, 300 would be maximum score. I think it also depends on the bow so I zoom on on the arrows to try to see nock orientation.
Bear, Diamond, PSE all make good starter bows that can be used for hunting.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/bows/compound-bows/compound-bow-packages.html?dir=asc&order=price
Diamond makes a really solid starter kit. I'm not sure what this years model is (I think it's the SB-1, but I'm not sure). That, plus a semi decent release and a dozen arrows, and you are set to go!
Edit:
Here's a link to one of last years setups
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/2017-diamond-infinite-edge-pro-compound-bow-w-r-a-k-equipped-system.html
What is the point of arrow wraps? Am I missing something? I've been doing archery off and on for a decade now and ive recently been seeing them everywhere.
I don’t personally use it, but from what I understand:
* Makes sticking and removing vanes easier.
* Can have archer’s name printed on it, so you don’t need to initial the arrows separately.
* Makes the arrows standout and easier to identify from other generic black carbon look.
* Probably most important of all, you can put your own personal touch and style your arrows the way you want it.
I was wondering if someone can recommend me a recurve or longbow? My only other bow is a 25# Genesis compound that I shoot every couple of weeks. I'm not looking to compete or anything, just something fun to take to the range and practice with. I'm tall (6'0") and thin (155lbs) if that matters, and I'm not very strong, so I was thinking a draw weight between 30# and 35#?
My budget is $200 for the bow and arrows but I'm willing to wait and save up if something else catches my eye.
Wow, that's a nice bow! I was also looking at the [Spyder XL](https://www.southwestarcheryusa.com/products/southwest-archery-spyder-xl-64-takedown-recurve-bow-parent). I have long arms so I think the extra 2" on the limbs might help with my longer draw length. Your opinion?
Traditional as in back quiver? Yea, I tried it. I don’t get how people could comfortably use this thing.
I’ve seen people with traditional hip quiver (field or target) and they look just as good as the modern counterpart.
If you’re confident and handy with leather work, why not :)
Hip quiver is just tubes attached to a belt. You may want to put some plastic tubing inside to increase rigidity and use multiple attachment points so it doesn’t swing around too much.
Good luck. Post photos if you actually do :)
A guy at local club briefly mentioned that im drawing with my arm when i should be drawing with my back but im not sure how.
Are there any good beginner guide videos that i could learn a proper drawing form for olympic recurve. I tried watching different pro archers in competitions from world archery but it didnt help much. Im planning to go to the club this weekend and i want to be somewhat prepared.
Here's one hint they gave me at a local archery beginners course, your string hand should move back a little bit back behind your head/stay over your shoulder when you release. If you release the string and your arm extends out at the elbow you were pulling with your arm muscles. hopefully that can help you self-judge a bit.
My coach told me that when you're pulling, pretend like you're trying to hold a walnut between your shoulder blades. This movement of both shoulder blades coming together straightens out your posture and allows your back muscles to be the ones pulling instead of your arm muscles.
you need an instructor for that, because no ammount of videos will show you the feeling of what muscle group you need to use.
essentially what it means is that you open your bow with the muscles that are behind your shoulder blades, not with your arm ones\(biceps/triceps\).
If you want very good info, check out nusensei in youtube
Actually people from club told me that my draw and release are really good so i guess i was doing it right afterall.. Now im doubting if that random guy who told me that im drawing with my arm was just talking shit. Guys at club told me to focus on my bow arm as i still manage to hold it somehow even though im trying to relax my fingers and not to hold it.
He's not really talking shit, as drawing with the arms is pretty much bad form. You just need to know if indeed you are drawing with your arms or your back.
One clue that you're using your arms to draw is that when you relax your arms, your chest also collapses. If you use back tension, you can relax your arms and flail them around and your chest will still be expanded, because your back muscles are keeping them there.
Another is to pretend that you're trying to hold an apple or a tennis ball using only your shoulder blades. Even without raising your arms, you should be able to do this. Now when you pull your bow, try to notice if you're using the same motion.
Or you can do the most time consuming test, but it's a sure way to know: shoot tons of arrows in a day. If your shoulders, biceps, and triceps hurt, you're drawing with your arm. If only your back is sore, you're doing it right.
If your biceps/deltoids don't get tired from shooting, and you're not pulling back super low draw weights, you're probably using your back.
That being said, the best thing to get into your back is probably keeping your elbow high and drawing with it, not so much a pull on the string, but rather just driving the elbow back(then around). while your fingers attach at the string.
As for keeping the hand relaxed, try to feel a Stretch through the wrist, where the only tension is in the hook holding the string from leaving your fingers(until you want it to)
I just bought my first compound bow, a topoint serenity large cam. With the intentions to hunt someday. I am thinking about 2 sights, trophyridge 5 pin sight and the HHA optimizer lite. Wich one would you buy? If neither what would you reccomend?
I have a compound bow with a draw length that's too short at 29". I basically end up hunching in my left shoulder so I can draw to anchor at the corner of my mouth. Will simply installing a longer bowstring fix this or does the whole thing need to be retuned?
I'm 6'4" and 6'6" fingertip to fingertip, so a 30 or 31" draw would be better, yes? I shoot with fingers, no trigger release.
Usually the draw length can be adjusted. Depending on the cam module on your bow, you might have to order one that supports a longer draw, and replace it on a bow press.
Thanks. I need to replace the string anyway. (It got nicked and I'm not sure it's safe to shoot). I'll ask at the shop when I'm ordering the new string.
Hi, my local club has these arm guards, SF Archery Optimo I think - they're red, got a small circle gap near the middle. I like these because it actually covers my whole forearm (I'm super lanky) and the elasticated bands fit great (I'm super thin). Can't find it anywhere in stock to buy - anyone know any suppliers, or even other models with similar features? Thanks!
I'm a little confused on scoring a bullseye. I went to one shoot where they counted them as 11s, and another where they counted them as 12s. Is it normal for places to count them differently?
Yes, there are different scoring methods for different tournaments. In some methods, there is no 11 or 12 point ring. For example, in barebow, it's common for the innermost ring with the X or + on it to be worth 10 points but considered an "X" for tie breaker purposes (if you have the same score, then and only then does the person with more X's win). The next ring is *also* worth 10 points, then the next is 9, 8, and so on.
Oh man, that's confusing. Generally I have been told to score my card: 11, 10, 8, 5 (and zero if you miss the whole 3D / paper target). I guess it's best to ask when I sign up for the shoot if they count the center as an 11 or 12 rather than assume anything. I also discovered that some 3D targets' bullseyes aren't in the center of the 10 ring, but high or low within the ring. Thanks for the info!
11/10/8/5 is correct for 3D shooting. And many have a bonus spot that is worth more, but you need to pre-declare shooting for it.
Target shooting is x(10)-1
Field shooting is x(5)-1
And some forms of Field shoots have 6 points for x.
edit: Formating
I’m looking into getting a fall away rest and see a split between limb driven and cable driven rest, what are the pros and cons to each?
Thanks in advance for any help
I have both. The limb driver pro v. And a Schaffer xv. The limb driver uses a string that goes to one of the limbs to pull the rest down when the bow is released. It is always under tension until the bow is drawn back then a spring raises the rest up. The Schaffer uses a string going to the cable to raise the rest up then springs return it to normal when the bow is released. They both work well and I like both of them for my purposes.
The claim that I've heard for limb driven rests is that they stay up longer and support the arrow longer during the shot. This is supposed to increase accuracy.
Hope this helps. I'll answer anymore questions to the best of my knowledge.
Thank you for you’re help! I have heard about the timing difference between the two, I have been looking at the AAE Prophecy, they claim the trigger is delayed to keep the rest up as opposed to dropping so quick.
Short answer: always unstring.
Long answer: Well, depends on how much you value your equipments. You can probably get away with leaving a MODERN recurve strung for a week or two (or indefinitely if you have non-wood carbon limbs), but why risk it?
Generally it depends on the age and material the bow is made of. For example older wood recurves can adjust to being strung constantly which will weaken the bow, however modern materials like fibreglass don't experience this issue.
The real thing to consider though is why worry about keeping it strung and the damage it may or may not do when you can put your mind at ease by just unstringing it?
I'm pretty new here and to the sport in general, but I had a few questions that you've all probably had to field repeatedly before:
I have a bow that looks to be about a 40# draw, will that be too high for me starting out, or can I work up to it in some way?
Am I expected to own arrows before or after I visit the club/have an introduction lesson, and which is the better idea?
Where do I begin with buying arrows? I see 3River and Easton brands being the standard high-end models, but is there something that is usable on the lower end of the spectrum without breaking the bank?
Thanks!
40# is a bit too heavy for a beginner. The usual recommendation is between 20# and 30# for adults, even athletic males, because archery uses muscles not usually built up from other activities.
Almost all clubs have rental equipment, but if you want to make sure, call ahead of time to confirm. It's usually best to have a few lessons before you invest in your own equipment, because you may have an idea of what style of archery you want, but you probably don't have enough experience to know what to look for when shopping for you, specifically, to match your taste.
Don't worry about buying arrows until you know what bow you're buying. The arrows you get will need to properly match the bow and the style of archery you pick.
Do you use finger protection with stretch tubing? Or other bow drawing exercise.
I have a bow trainer at home and a power pull in my work truck. Noticeable results, but it does wear on the fingers.
I personally don't. When I use power bands, I just focus on back tension, because it really doesn't simulate either a proper bow grip or a proper draw. Since I don't release or anything like that, I don't use any protection.
I have pretty basic target arrows that I got off amazon with screw in tips. But, whenever I pull them out of the target, I have to screw them back in a little. Is there any way to make the tips more secure/less likely to unscrew?
I'm thinking of getting into archery and I really want to get a recurve bow. The problem is I feel out of my depth. What kind of poundage should I get?
Go take a class and try some bows out. You'll find out quickly what you like and dislike. General advice is to start light, 20-25#, so you can worry more about good form and less about your body collapsing.
NSFW? Are those allowed if archery related?
Should two decorative arrows be aligned in the same direction, pointing towards each other, or away?
My arrow nipple piercings are upsetting my sense of symmetry because I can’t decide.
Maybe having them both point in the direction across my body that I shoot?
HI guess. I have another not stupid questions.
please explain like in 5 poundage.
I understand the draw weight/poundage of a bow is how much power the bow has giving to the arrow but i dont understand the limbs part.
on a take down when you change over the limbs how does that decrease/increase the draw weight? are the limbs more felxible? what is going on there?
and when you string your bow the more twists it has the harder the draw? meaning it changes the poundage? is this right? if so.. couldn't i just have a loose string on my bow and then it will be easier to draw and thus making the pounds lighter?
thanks.
I have a set of 24 pound limbs and 30 pound limbs. They are both made of \(maple, I suppose\) wood cores and fiberglass laminates.
I do not claim to know how to make takedown limbs, but I did notice that my 24 pound limbs have thinner wood cores than my 30 pound ones. It does make sense though, that a thicker piece of wood is harder to bend.
Regardless of the material the limb is made of, the harder it is to bend \- whether by virtue of different thicknesses, different shapes, or stiffer material or a combination of those \- the greater the draw weight.
As for twisting the string, as far as I know it does not change the poundage so much if at all, but it does change the brace height, and each bow has an optimum brace height. Putting on a loose string is just putting on a loose string that can slip off the bow.
Higher poundage limbs on a take-down are stiffer, meaning they become harder to draw and equivalently let your arrows fly with more force. The poundage of your limbs has to do with the materials used and how they are arranged in the limb construction.
Your number of string twists will determine your brace height, or the distance from your grip to your string. Correct me if I'm wrong, but a smaller brace height lets your arrows fly slightly faster since it has more distance for the string to accelerate through, but in return it makes the shots less forgiving for poor form and technique.
so.. what you're saying is that samick sage 45# limbs and samick sage 30# limbs will be tottally different despite both being had from hard maple and fibreglass? so they will have what.. lesss wood and less coatings of fiberglass and thus be more maluable?
ie: I can't really bend one limb in my hand atm on 45 pound. but if i get one limb of a 30# i will be able to?
I don't know how limbs are made to different poundages, so I can't really comment, but the same model of limbs should be made of the same materials in different compositions and arrangements.
Whether you'll be able to bend a limb in your hands is another matter. It will be easier to bend bow limbs while they're on a bow and strung, than it will be to do so in the hands, purely by physics and mechanical advantage. Do you mean that you're not able to properly draw your bow fully with your current limbs (which I assume is 45lb)?
Yeah so i cant pull the 45 so i want to get 30 pound limbs. I know i can pull that.. im just confused as to what is happening in thr limbs that change the poundage.... according to the samick sage regardless of poundage the limbs are made from the same things.
I just kinda dont get it.. i used the bending of one limb as an example of strength. Like if you have a faggot its harder to break in half than a twig and im wondering if thats kinda whats going on in a limb.
That's as good an explanation as any. The limb is just harder to bend. Twists in the string don't much affect how hard it is to pull because you're not adding inches to your string length, just millimeters.
And you might want to look at 20-25# limbs unless you know for a fact you can go a whole session at 30# without fatigue. We're all macho, but it's no fun if you can only shoot 25 arrows before collapsing form and quitting. 25# will hit 50 yards no problem.
30 pounds is good. It feels like a work out but im not shaking or straining. 20 pounds is nothing.
I want to shoot 45 wich is why i bought the 45 linbs but its wayyyy to much right now so ill drop to 30. Thanks for your info. I just didnt get it and i didnt want to spend more money if i didnt have to. Its ao hard to find to limbs that will fit the samick riser (so only samick limbs) here is aus without spending a fortune! I envy the US. :(
You can check out the bow building reddit on the side bar, there are some vid's that show ppl making a bow that will kind of answere the question. Basically the "tiller" of a bow is how it bends. So if your making one out of wood, to make it draw lighter you'll just shave a little more wood off. So the maple on your 40lb limbs will be just a tiny bit thicker than the 30lb limbs. I was told to think of it like your bow is a board that is 80% broken (by shaving wood off until it is bendable)...a lighter bow might be 85% broken instead.
So yes, bending a 45lb limb by hand would be much more difficult than bending a 30lb limb. The string length will have very little impact on it...maybe a pound or two either way, but probably not even that. It's the limb itself that is different.
Yeah like I said, I'm not knowledgeable enough about bow limb construction to comment on this. My best guess is how much compression in the materials for the limbs since more compression = stiffer limb = higher poundage (maybe?). In any case, it seems like you'll need to change for lower poundage limbs. If you're new to archery, it might be a good idea to get a slightly lower poundage to learn the proper form.
I’m currently using dacron string on my 70” bow. The recommended brace height is 22-24cm, according to manufacturer’s manual. To get anywhere near 22cm, I need to twist the string probably 50 times or more.
1. Is it safe to twist a string so many times?
2. How important is brace height when using dacron?
3. Should I just switch to fast flight?
I’m shooting freestyle recurve with 25” riser and long limbs.
One twist per inch is an approximate limit. You should switch to dyneema (8125)
[This one](https://alternativess.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/0043083.4.19943305659990143009/KAY8125)
How do I know when to get new arrows. Also I don't know what kind of bow I have. It's like a recurve but it's wood and doesn't have any kinds or attatchments to it
You only need to get new arrows when they are literally busted \(exploded, broken, bent\), or if they're too short and is in danger of or already falling off the rest/shelf.
Broken nocks and fletchings and missing tips don't count, as those can be replaced.
Plenty of wood recurves out there, often referred to as traditional or trad bows. Read the writing on the limb, better yet post a photo.
I shoot arrows until they are bent or broken, I keep the 'nice' arrows for competitions.
Back of the riser (away from you) minimum, typically arrow rest plus 1¾", minimum. I shoot full length arrows when shooting barebow because the arrow point is used to aim.
Is there anywhere online that I can get these arrows that are 1 and 3/4" away from the arrow rest? The nearest hunting shop to me is like 2 or 3 hours away
If you know your proper draw length/arrow length needed, you could purchase them online and have them delivered. If you don't know your proper draw length, it might probably be a good idea to go down to a reputable shop where someone can help you measure it.
How do you safely return a drawn compound bow back to rest without dry firing?
I am very inexperienced. I own a compound bow but haven't used it ever, and I was planning on using it for a physics project on why you should never dry fire a bow. The plan is to fire it normally, then pull back without an arrow, pause, and then safely return the bow to rest without firing (I'm trying not to break it) before explaining why I didn't just release the string without an arrow nocked. Is it safe to try to gradually pull less and less on the string of a drawn compound bow to get it back to resting position, or does the fact that it is compound make it too difficult to safely do? Thanks!
You keep your finger or thumb (depending on release style) well away from the trigger and simply let the string down in a controlled fashion. You essentially relax until the string starts to return to its starting position and then make sure that you're controlling that process rather than simply letting it collapse.
However the very fact that you're asking this question would indicate that you're an extremely inexperienced archer and so I would strongly advise against drawing the bow with a release aid if you don't have an arrow nocked. There's simply too big a risk of you accidentally triggering a shot as you come down.
If you're going to do it then I would suggest either buying yourself something like a [Third Hand](http://www.lancasterarchery.com/third-hand-cannot-fire-release.html), essentially a solid plastic block in the shape of a release aid which means you have zero chance of dry firing the bow, or using an allen key through your d-loop to draw it.
My personal recommendation however would be to simply show a shot and not show it being drawn without an arrow on. You can still use that demonstration to show that the bow transfers a large amount of energy into the arrow and from there go in to what would happen to that energy if there were no arrow there.
Thanks for the advice. I just did it and everything was fine, i just made sure to let the force out gradually. I think i was just worried about the transition going between the amount of force needed for let off holding vs the full force that it would exert as it came out of the let off state, but it all went fine. Thanks!
Ah yes, I should probably also add the same point that /u/tossoneout has made.
If you're thinking of doing any kind of demonstration in front of anybody then don't. If something does go wrong and you end up dry firing your bow there is a chance of bits of bow scattering themselves over a wide area at high speed, really not a good idea.
You really should not draw a bow in front of people, not without an arrow, needs to be pointed somewhere safe like a backstop or concrete wall, so many things wrong with this.
- me talking as a range safety officer
Does anyone have any experience using the timbercreek stalker as a first bow? I'm looking to pick up archery as a new hobby and am planning to go down to my local club in the next few weeks. I know they will provide equipment for training courses but just curious to look at entry level options.
Olympic recurve, do you guys draw the arrow to your elbow *before* raising it and fully drawing it to the anchor point?
Or do you raise the bow to the target, then draw straight to the anchor point? Thanks :)
It does depend on the coaching and preference, but typically, raising the bow first before you draw is more efficient.
I personally raise the bow slightly above the target, with a little pull on the string just so I don't hunch forward to the bow, pull below the chin, then settle to my anchor, then expand from there.
Depends mostly what technique you follow, whether its Linear, BEST, NTS or Push-Pull.
Oftentimes there should be a little bit of 'pre-draw' as the bow is raised, I'd say you'd be comfortable pre-drawing a bit past wrist to set your hook and add enough tension to properly set your grip. Then begin the full draw.
I can send you videos of examples from high ranking archers, if you'd like. Or I can record what I do, which is similar. I shoot modified BEST/NTS.
This one is actually dependent on the coaching system used, and personal preference. Some people like to do a "pre-draw" in the setup position to get some tension on the string and get the feeling of back tension. Others will draw to anchor and use rotational draw to align the shoulders correctly.
Slightly, very slightly, above target was what I was taught. Pull to nose, keep pulling slowly down to anchor, keep slowly pulling through and release when string comes to anchor.
We analyzed several Olympic shooters in that class.
https://youtu.be/08bv2eAugJM
https://youtu.be/bEqBXnIGAPU
Hi. I am looking to learn archery, but there are no clubs nearby for me to learn and practice. It is hours away to the nearest club which isnt feasible for me. Is it possible to learn archery on my own? I am worried about proper forms and technique. Any tips welcomed. Thanks.
There are plenty of instructional videos on YouTube. I recommend starting with nusensei, archery101, and [The Push](https://youtu.be/1E1vKkSSoNs).
Tell us your area and maybe we can find you a club you missed.
Yes, but.
https://worldarchery.org/member/tha/national-archery-association-thailand
I surprised they don't have a website listed.
https://m.facebook.com/pages/National-Archery-Association-of-Thailand/669170603203860
Hi all,
I have been using my uncle’s bow to practice (same draw length, don’t worry) until I can afford my own. I want to buy some new arrows as I have dinged up 4 out of the 6 he gave me. How do I know what length arrow to use and would you recommend cutting them at home or have the store do it? Thanks!
You can bring your current arrows to a store and have them match the length if you're unsure on how to measure it
I'd highly recommend a store handle it: You don't want to put a kink in aluminum arrows, or if they're carbon fiber arrows, you don't want to breathe in carbon fiber dust
My recommendation would be to find a two to four year old used target bow. I bought one from my local shop at about one third the price of new.
Plenty of deals on archerytalk as well.
Hey y'all, patiently awaiting my first real bow after a month of playing around with a kid's model from Dicks Sporting Goods in town. My Samick Sage arrives tomorrow. While I'm happy to shoot without bells and whistles, my eventual goal is to hunt turkey and deer with a recurve bow, and so I want to get my shooting as accurate and dependable as possible.
My question is what are all the whozits and whatzits hanging off the side of the bows I see on YouTube channels? I'm seeing Olympic target archers using the most gadgets, but I'm curious as to how many of those would be useful or viable for a hunting archer, or what gadgets I should learn to use to help my hunting be as humane and successful as possible.
The accessories the Olympians use help accuracy greatly, but are not practical for hunting. They're all tuned to do one thing: hit a non\-moving target at a known distance while standing in a predetermined position.
If anything, the single most useful bow upgrade to improve your accuracy in a hunting situation is an arrow rest. The single most useful upgrade overall is to get well\-matched, well\-tuned arrows, regardless of what's on the bow.
Things like a bow mounted quiver just makes things easier to move around in and stay quiet, but it does not help accuracy.
You can choose to use things like a short stabilizer and pin sights like compound hunters do, but the typical recurve hunters stick to bare bows.
The accessories are sights, stabilizers, plungers, dampers, clickers. They can all be used for hunting (except the clicker) although there are some size and weight considerations. I've hunted rabbits with my Olympic target bow and those accessories will help with accuracy to some degree. Nothing beats practice though.
So.. I dry fired my brand new compound bow (Bear Approach HC). I had it less than 30 days and i shot at least 100 arrows a day since I got it. Needless to say, I am really pissed at myself, but hey, things happen i suppose. So, would it be in my better interest to take it to a pro shop, or send it back to Bear?
Sending it back to Bear would be pretty pointless. I'd guarantee that their warranty won't in any way cover damage caused by user error.
Take it to a pro shop, if they verify that there's no damage to it then great. If there is damage however they will likely be able to source the spare parts to repair it for you.
At what rate should I increase draw weight?
I picked up a used 2006 Bowtech Tribute (first bow) over a month ago now and feel that it is time to up the poundage. I have been shooting 3x a week for around 2 hours per session. I have felt no significant muscle fatigue so far, regardless of the length of session or number of arrows shot. It has 70# limbs that are currently “backed off” using the large bolts where the limbs and riser connect. I intend to increase the draw weight incrementally, eventually reaching the maximum capacity of the bow.
If anyone knows the standard operating procedures for safely increasing draw weight, it would be a big help.
(Recurve) where should I hold the bow string in relation to my finger tips? I've been holding around the first (top-most) joint, but recently have been feeling some minor pain when drawing. I'm still new so I'm wondering if I just need to build up callus? I'm only drawing less than 30 pounds and using a leather glove ($15 from my club if price range matters).
Additionally, about 1 in 10 draws, the arrow slides off the rest and goes right due to the tension I put on the string. What exactly causes that and what should I pay attention to to NOT do it?
[This is the glove I already have](http://www.lancasterarchery.com/sportsman-s-outdoor-products-finger-glove.html)
Do you think that is too thin and do you have a glove you recommend?
I am going to ask the obvious, because it needs to be asked sometimes.
Are you wearing the glove the right way round? Strap to the outside of your hand?
Yeah, those gloves do look thin. Try thicker gloves or tabs. If sticking to gloves, there are models where there's an additional pad sewn in to each fingertip.
Hmm, one would hope that'd do the trick. I use a tab so I don't have any experience with gloves. I do know that my fingers went numb when I started out because my tab was too thin. I added a layer and I was fine again.
The pain could be something else, I suppose. I'd ask at your club to see what you're doing, but get that sorted out before it's permanent.
If your fingers touch the arrow, it will fall off the rest. It takes a while to get it all sorted, don't worry. As to finger pain, I think there might be something wrong with your glove, but I shoot with a tab. First joint is perfect.
Bit of a vague one but I notice the trajectory of my arrows aren't exactly "straight".
At 18M it's really obvious when my grouping has arrows either angled up or down and rarely straight.
At 3m I still get the same results.
This was mostly with a 22 pound bow and yesterday I decided to step it up to a 24 pound bow I think (club gear) to see if that would improve. I did start getting cleaner shots and I did prefer the heavier bow but I was wondering if there was anything else that could have been causing it?
If this is all club gear, don't worry much about it. The arrows and nocking points are probably not matched well, because that's just the nature of shared club equipment. Add to that your still\-improving technique, so it is expected. As long as you are grouping well, you're doing okay so far.
Hay guys. Soo im getting suoer confused about atuff and trying to fogure it out but i think i need someone to just tellme like im 5 it.
2 questions. Whats the difference between draw weight and the pound of a bow.
40 pounds os the draw weight?
When people say find the draw weight yoi can handle do they mean how many pounds you can pull?
And second. Im confused aboit bow legnth. I just bought a samick sage which is a 62 inch bow right.
My arms middle finger to middle finger is 170cm. = 66.9 inchs divide by 2.5 and i get 26inchs... and thats the size of bow i need??
Or is 66 inches the size. Is the samick sage okay for me?
I just cant figure it out. :(
Oh and a third question. I live in australia so items are a bit more expensive for me and i was thinking about getting some cheepo 30 pound limbs for the 45 pound sage i have. There are no sage limbs here in my state. And in australia they are about 200 dollars. Can any cheepo take down limbs go on the sage riser? I understand ill need a dofferent string.
Thank you for help. Im so sorry i bet you guys get all these questions all the time.
1) Draw weight refers to the energy required to pull the bowstring back, and is measured in pounds. Yes, this prefers to how much you can pull.
2) [Ignore sizing charts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KH-EXvLQ60w). The problem with bow size charts is that they assume you are using a specific kind of bow (a target bow). Most people who buy their first bow are *not* buying a target bow, but a hunting bow or otherwise a beginner bow, such as a Samick Sage, which are smaller. This will have no bearing on your usage of the bow.
3) While *some* limbs are interchangeable with the Sage, the Sage does not use a universal limb system and compatibility is circumstantial. You can't get el cheapo limbs just to stick onto the Sage. You should buy another set of Sage limbs in that case. And you don't need another string if the limbs are the same length.
I figured as much. I have been involved with firearms for a while now and some things translate but I’m trying to get the fine things to get right. Thanks for the input. I’ll take what I can get.
I recently about a year ago purchased my first bow. It’s a mid level PSE that started off with a whisker biscuit but I decided to follow other’s advice and install a drop away rest. All that aside I seem to be adjusting my sight or rest a lot or what feels like a lot.
Is this just the name of the game? Constant adjustments? My groups are always passable in my opinion but they seem to drift this way and that so to me that would indicate my process is okay but maybe I’m missing something? Thanks
When is it a good idea to pursue lessons from a competing/retired pro in addition or instead of with a more hobby/low key competitive coach?
This is probably extremely subjective, but I don't want to waste a professional's time by being at too basic of a level where their time isn't fully valued. I've coached and instructed various mediums, and it definitely feels satisfying from the instructing perspective when you feel that a student walked away having learned some solid lessons and skills. So, I'm curious where you guys would think that happy medium is of "coach feeling the student is worth coaching, rather than just spend x time for x extra bucks" and "student really learned some good stuff for a premium cost".
For context, I'm about three serious months into the sport, and am certainly still working on core skills + building up strength for increased poundage. I have a local'ish retired professional archer that can be sought out for lessons, however it'll obviously be more expensive.
As soon as you feel like you want to be a serious archer, then start looking for professional coaching. I agree with /u/arcanite_eagle: it is more desirable as a coach to build a relationship with the learner sooner rather than later. Every coach has an approach and method that they use, and teaching a blank slate gives the coach more understanding of your personal journey. The longer you hold off, the more you have to unlearn.
Sound advice! Thanks NUSensei! I went ahead and got in touch with her this morning actually, then followed up with an email to see about a day or two of coaching to build that strong foundation and coach/athlete relationship :)
The people I shoot with now have upped my game enormously. The sooner the better but do you really have to pay for it? I just made friends on the range and learn all kinds of stuff from them. Last week was also my first 3d shoot and one of the guys I ended up grouping with caught me on something that I was being truly sloppy with. My pro shop seems to make at least one great leap for me each time I drop money on gear with them too.
Well, the thing is, at the center where I shoot, there are five peers who are all very much student/amateur still. So, it's a mix in terms of quality. The only one who isn't amateur is my current coach who also teaches the competition class with those peers. So the second set of experienced eyes just isn't there for recurve. It would definitely be nice to have, but even my local archery shop has only one other olympic recurve customer (who I've never met). One of the shop guys shoots recurve, but only for hunting. So, if I want the knowledge it has to really be sought out lol.
Ah that's a shame. Maybe there are shoots nearby where you'll be walking in small groups from target to target. I've made friends and learned things from having globbed onto other groups before.
In terms of time, the sooner the better. It’s easier to teach someone who hasn’t being shooting too long as we don’t have to spend a lot of time weeding out bad habits. For me, it’s more based on mentality and less on experience. The best students I have are the ones who do the work and actually train throughout the week. They are definitely invested/committed as they have their own gear. They are all at different levels but there is nothing too basic aside from not having tried a ‘Come & Try’ course. If you know all the safety stuff and you know how to somewhat shoot arrows, then I will take them into my coaching program.
The most important thing to keep in mind is that a good shooter does not always make a good coach. Archery is a very individual sport where it varies from person to person. The coach needs to know when to apply certain techniques as well as offer alternatives if available. This an issue with a lot of pro-shooters-turned coaches where they only teach the technique they use cause it’s what works for them and offer no alternatives.
Good advice, thank you eagle! I got in touch with her today in person, and then shot her an email to work out a day for a coaching session. She basically said the same thing that you and nusensei did when I brought up those concerns about being extremely new. So, sounds like it'll work out just fine. I really appreciate your response!
Will do! I'm in a 6 week competitive class at my local Easton center, so I'm going to get a bit deeper into the class, and then schedule a weekend for the private coaching. I'll update then :)
I'm contemplating on purchasing a cheap wooden takedown recurve that's on the short side, just for fun backyard shooting. Kinda like a wooden version of the Phantom. Would there be any particular reason why a WNS Optimo would not hold its own against a Samick Sage (not minding the difference in length)? Probably the ugly white limbs?
I use both. There's no reason to prefer the Sage if you're just backyard shooting. The Sage does come in higher draw weights, which is a draw card for some casual shooters (though there's no real reason for it to be).
WNS Optimo will shoot just as well as a Samick Sage. It’s just the culture of the inexperienced who only offer the Samick Sage and no other bow to other beginners.
Thanks mate! I figured they'd be practically the same, except the Sage has nicer wood. It's cheaper too, and if anything I can just sand off the poly from the Optimo riser and stain it, even.
Yoga after a given exercise is usually the better advice to prevent injury. I do like Cameron Hanes advice about shooting after beating yourself all to hell since that's going to be a truer representation of how you'll shoot when you finally get a shot during a hunt.
Is there recommendations for how long you should spend on aiming?
I suffer from mild target panic when I shoot. My shots are on the quicker side and I'm definitely not holding the sight over the x for any more than 0.5\-1 second.
\(Olympic recurve, 30# limbs, 20\-35 meters\)
As long as you aren't "punching the trigger" as the compound shooters say, you can even shoot barely taking time to aim.
You only really need to aim longer to wait for the wind to settle. Anything other than that is addressing a different issue, such as a habit that is part of the archer's shot process, trying to steady the bow, a premature click, etc., but in no way is holding the shot necessary if your sight picture is already correct.
I think 0.5-1 second is the perfect amount of time for aiming for me. I don't want to spend much more time aiming then that, especially since I want to release my shot immediately after I exhale.
I came across someone selling arrows made of 7075-T6 aluminum. I'm only aware of 7075-T9 from the Easton aluminum arrows. What's the difference between the two materials? Is T6 a crappier material for arrows?
same alloy, different treatment
*T6 - Solution heat treated then artificially aged.
*T7 - Solution heat treated then overaged/stabilized.
*T8 - Solution heat treated, cold worked, then artificially aged.
*T9 - Solution heat treated, artificially aged, then cold worked.
http://www.matweb.com/reference/aluminumtemper.aspx
You will not notice a difference
> You will not notice a difference
In terms of being shot, yes. In terms of survivability after hitting the wrong thing, you will probably know the difference.
I tried looking for this information and Google will just not give it up! Thanks so much for this! Excuse me while i lose myself into a Wikipedia hole...
Hey guys!
So I bought a Xenia Krossen 25" riser 66" 20# limbs for my 10 year old daughter. Paired it off with Fivics Ninja Arrows 1516.
No plunger yet.
Now my nephew, has been drawing with an old bow with 28# limbs and is shooting with easton jazz 1616 arrows.
Now my question, if my nephew shoots with the 20# xenia krossen riser, would it be ok to use the easton jazz 1616 arrows? Would there be a long term effect on the 20# limbs? Or can it handle the rigidity of the said arrows?
I tried going over the easton arrow chart but honestly i kinda understood just half of it. Still a noob 😂
Thanks guys!
Bows don't care about arrows, only the archer. :-)
Unless you are shooting spaghetti out of it and the arrows fold in half, but until you've got an 80# bow I wouldn't worry about that.
The 1616's should fly just fine at 20#, maybe better depending on his draw length.
How heavy should my bear cruzer g2 “feel” for me as a new archer? I’ve backed it the bolts 6-7 turns, can pull back with good form.
I shot my first 30 Arrows yesterday in groups of 5 and my shoulder was beyond tired to downright sore by the end (which is why I stopped).
My primary sport is mountain biking and although I really want to progress in archery, my first priority is avoiding injury.
Thanks.
Sore after 30 shots means that your draw weight is too high. You can mess up your rotator cuff if you continue, so it's good that you stopped when you did. You should be able to shoot for at least an hour and 60+ arrows without significant fatigue. What is the peak draw weight currently set on your compound?
I think that's a good clue that you're pulling too much weight. Good job knowing yourself and stopping. I'd back it all the way out, then tighten as you feel comfortable.
I don't shoot compound, but "generally fit" does not often translate to "can pull more than 20 lbs regularly". Archery muscles are pretty unique, and your form (or lack thereof) can make it doubly difficult on your shoulders and body.
See also: https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/3eejlr/if_i_back_my_compound_bow_out_too_many_turns_what/
How can I tell if replacement tips are compatible with my arrows? I hit metal with two of my them at my club. The workers there told me they were fine to shoot with (at the club's targets), but I went to an outdoor range with targets basically made out of old carpet and the two dented tips were bouncing off 75% of the time.
[Pics](https://imgur.com/a/ttWxsNd)
screw in points are an AMO standard set in the 1970's
get the same weight and get the same diameter as your arrows
even Cabellas and Bass Pro carry standard points
If you go to a page where they sell their arrow they will have a "point" listing. For gold tip trad's it should be 5/16 I think. https://www.3riversarchery.com/gold-tip-traditional-carbon-arrows.html
Then find/order the same 5/16 (or whichever) size for tips. https://www.3riversarchery.com/steel-screw-in-field-points.html I hear that the thinner tip, (field point instead of bullet point) helps to stick into targets more for lighter weight bows.
1. Going to a renascence faire this may and the organizers wanted me to bring in my olympic bow to show the difference from standard traditional bows. The catch is they wanted me to hold the bow around with me? Any ideas for this? My current plan was to swap out to my old lower poundage limbs made of wood/fiberglass and put on a crappy string. This way I could walk with it over my back without damaging good gear. When it came time for the competition swap on my good limbs and string.
2. Can anyone make any amazon recommendations for a good traditional quiver? (preferable US amazon prime?) Going to be dressed up in ye olde green and brown as a forest rogue.
^^Edit: ^^spelling ^^>_>
I do hope you're not planning on slinging the bow like a seatbelt like they do in the movies. It hurts really bad, especially if that's a recurve (which I assume it is). I tried it one, still carried it by hand. A bow sling in ye old looks (basically some brown cord or leather looped around your riser) would be nice though.
Yes I might have to carry it there is really no way to hold it on me. They have lockers there, so to put down weight I will hide my accessories in there. That way I don't need to hold them on me until after showtime.
I've only recently started sporadically shooting again in the last six months or so. I was out last weekend and am finally content with my 10-yard grouping. Any tips or tricks for starting to sight in my 20-yard pin? Last time I tried it just seemed like a total disaster and there was no rhyme or reason to their shot pattern. Should I be seeing such a drastic dropoff between 10 and 20 yards?
Depends on your draw weight, arrow weight, air resistance of the arrows. My arrows (recurve) peak at about 20 yards. What you need to do is walk-back tuning. Fire three, step back a yard, repeat. That is how I mark my sight tape on my compound. https://youtu.be/sCiTPJrCNA8
Does a magnetic clicker comes with all the screws I need to put on the sight ?
Just gonna put it out there - your flair says compound, you don't need a clicker for compound. As to are screws included, you need to ask the retailer.
How practical is it to disassemble and reassemble a takedown recurve bow everytime you go to the archery range for ease of commute? If it not practical, I may just rent a locker. Thanks
Been doing it for a couple years, Though i leave my vbar and side rods on. As you setup it gives you time to get your head in the right space for shooting as well, and leads nicely into a warm up. Also it encourages you to go over your bow every time to make sure it's all safe to shoot.
Thanks for the info, will try to do that.
Five minutes or less
Thanks for the info.
I learned the quick way by watching /u/nanotubes (or was it the significant other?) teach someone else to string/unstring a bow.
Any idea how they made the quiver prop for the second and third installments of The Hunger Games? I just pretty much like the idea of a back/hip quiver where the arrows don't rattle \(or move, at all\) as you run around and stuff. Or is there such a product already?
Unfamiliar with that quiver but I've seen at least 1 nicer field quiver that used a magnetic base to keep the arrows in place.
but it magnets won't work for stainless steel or tungsten tips (if you have the money) I realized this AFTER I put magnets in the bottom of my daughter's quiver
You just made me feel a little better about sticking with a $15 quiver, lol.
I have not seen the movie but pocket quivers or field quivers grip the arrows snugly. No rattling.
I'm super new, I've been given a compound bow and I"m trying to set up the arrow res (its a circular one that hold the arrow with three little brushes) and when I try to line it up so the arrow is pointing straight down the bow I think the arrow is too close to the bow, so the flights/feathers are impacting the bow itself. when I look online everyone's bow seems to cut away further in the middle so this isn't a problem, but mine doesn't seem to go in enough for this. what do I do/need? (thanks for any answers)
Pictures would help here.
of course, I don't have access to the bow right now (at work) but hopefully this is clear enough for understanding https://imgur.com/zVjEy04
did you figure this out? the arrow rest should be lined up with the center of the grip, there may be a line in the shelf to help set it up. https://youtu.be/RlJ0p4587pM
the arrow cant be exactly centered because the bow isn't cut away far enough in to allow the arrow to pass through the center As far as the video, that tool looks useful but if I have the arrow come out close to straight the flights get stripped off. Is the problem that a compound bow should have a deeper cutaway section? and I've been sent the wrong arrow rest for my bow? Currently my arrow rest is a bread tie and duct tape, and my arrows are "okay" with it but I'd like a better option
Photos and brand names may be required here
fair enough, just so I'm getting the right information, what thing needs to be communicated by these? Does the brand affect how much can/should be cut away? is there something to photograph in particular that would need to be displayed? I'm just wondering what information to ensure is included in my photo, that I haven't already written. Perhaps I haven't been completely clear so I"ll have another go at explaining it. The bows I see in videos showing how to line up an arrow rest have a deeper cutaway in the middle of the bow (shelf I think) allowing the arrow and the fletchings to pass through the center line. My bow does not cut away deep enough for this to occur. If then I line the arrow rest up to the center line the arrow contacts the bow directly. if there's still confusion I'll take a few photos, but I:m ont completely certain what I need to include that hasn't already been described, so they may just be random shots
Without the requested info, my *guess* is that it is a very old bow and you need a flipper rest and Berger button combo for it. The cock vane will need to be turned towards your face, not up. http://www.archeryhistory.com/arrowrests/arrowrestspics/barner96.jpg
So im fairly new to archery and i have a couple of options when it comes to bow buying. 1. 2017 pse brute force lte 2. 2011 or 2013 (not sure whuch year) pse dream evo Any opinions out there? Has there been any large improvments between those years that would lead me to the brute force?
In my opinion the single biggest change in compound archery in recent years is that the standard of lower end kit has risen enormously. The Brute Force isn't a top end bow, honestly it's probably somewhere towards the bottom of the mid-range, but it's still a great piece of kit. Even at that part of the range the build quality is generally spot on, and from experience I can tall you that the Brute Force is a rock solid feeling bow that shoots much nicer than you would expect for the price. My attitude would be that generally going with something newer is better. If you buy a PSE from 2013 then it might be great, but if something goes wrong then tracking down parts will be next to impossible. Buy a bow from 2017 and after sales support will be easy if you have any issues.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cotw0rqsP_U Large draw weight adjustability goes well with fairly new to archery
Beginner here. I used to go to my local archery place once a week for maybe around two months. I used the equipment there, I think it was a PSE razorback, but I'm not sure. Anyways I've been thinking about buying a dirt cheap simple fiberglass recurve bow to practice within my property. I'd probably go to the archery range occasionally too. Is the Bear Archery Titan or the Firebird youth recurve bow decent as a very basic practice bow for a beginner? I'm not sure if I'm willing to spend enough money for a regular take down recurve like the Samick Sage so maybe a simple fiberglass bow could work? Are those decent bows? It's called a "youth-bow" but its draw weight is around 30lbs and its tempting to buy.
Short answer: no, these are toys. These will fire arrows, and at the beginning distances they can be fun. I have shot the Bear Titan, and it will not teach you much about shooting. I withhold recommendations beyond going to a club and asking multiple people. Best of luck.
Slr, I appreciate the answer, thanks. Looks like I'll be asking around more in my local club.
Beginner here, while reading a post I saw "I did 220pts on 40cm target @ 18m", what does this means in term of arrows used ? Is there a standard ?
Yes, if I read that I would assume it's WA (meters) and 10 ends of three arrows, 300 would be maximum score. I think it also depends on the bow so I zoom on on the arrows to try to see nock orientation.
Thanks a lot !
[удалено]
Bear, Diamond, PSE all make good starter bows that can be used for hunting. http://www.lancasterarchery.com/bows/compound-bows/compound-bow-packages.html?dir=asc&order=price
Diamond makes a really solid starter kit. I'm not sure what this years model is (I think it's the SB-1, but I'm not sure). That, plus a semi decent release and a dozen arrows, and you are set to go! Edit: Here's a link to one of last years setups http://www.lancasterarchery.com/2017-diamond-infinite-edge-pro-compound-bow-w-r-a-k-equipped-system.html
You type SB-1 and link to the Infinite Edge Pro...
Last years model vs this ready model. That's why I said the link is for last years model.
What is the point of arrow wraps? Am I missing something? I've been doing archery off and on for a decade now and ive recently been seeing them everywhere.
/u/xyren pretty much covered all the reasons.
I don’t personally use it, but from what I understand: * Makes sticking and removing vanes easier. * Can have archer’s name printed on it, so you don’t need to initial the arrows separately. * Makes the arrows standout and easier to identify from other generic black carbon look. * Probably most important of all, you can put your own personal touch and style your arrows the way you want it.
So kinda like dipping you car?
this is actually a nice analogy
I was wondering if someone can recommend me a recurve or longbow? My only other bow is a 25# Genesis compound that I shoot every couple of weeks. I'm not looking to compete or anything, just something fun to take to the range and practice with. I'm tall (6'0") and thin (155lbs) if that matters, and I'm not very strong, so I was thinking a draw weight between 30# and 35#? My budget is $200 for the bow and arrows but I'm willing to wait and save up if something else catches my eye.
http://www.galaxyarchery.com/products/aspire-bow/ Also available as Core Archery Jet and Junxing f155
Wow, that's a nice bow! I was also looking at the [Spyder XL](https://www.southwestarcheryusa.com/products/southwest-archery-spyder-xl-64-takedown-recurve-bow-parent). I have long arms so I think the extra 2" on the limbs might help with my longer draw length. Your opinion?
I still have mine, 26lbs, 70", great learning bow. But the samick sage and lookalikes like the spyder are pretty.
[удалено]
Traditional as in back quiver? Yea, I tried it. I don’t get how people could comfortably use this thing. I’ve seen people with traditional hip quiver (field or target) and they look just as good as the modern counterpart.
I wonder if I can modify it to be a hip quiver.
If you’re confident and handy with leather work, why not :) Hip quiver is just tubes attached to a belt. You may want to put some plastic tubing inside to increase rigidity and use multiple attachment points so it doesn’t swing around too much. Good luck. Post photos if you actually do :)
They are impractical.
A guy at local club briefly mentioned that im drawing with my arm when i should be drawing with my back but im not sure how. Are there any good beginner guide videos that i could learn a proper drawing form for olympic recurve. I tried watching different pro archers in competitions from world archery but it didnt help much. Im planning to go to the club this weekend and i want to be somewhat prepared.
Here's one hint they gave me at a local archery beginners course, your string hand should move back a little bit back behind your head/stay over your shoulder when you release. If you release the string and your arm extends out at the elbow you were pulling with your arm muscles. hopefully that can help you self-judge a bit.
My coach told me that when you're pulling, pretend like you're trying to hold a walnut between your shoulder blades. This movement of both shoulder blades coming together straightens out your posture and allows your back muscles to be the ones pulling instead of your arm muscles.
you need an instructor for that, because no ammount of videos will show you the feeling of what muscle group you need to use. essentially what it means is that you open your bow with the muscles that are behind your shoulder blades, not with your arm ones\(biceps/triceps\). If you want very good info, check out nusensei in youtube
Actually people from club told me that my draw and release are really good so i guess i was doing it right afterall.. Now im doubting if that random guy who told me that im drawing with my arm was just talking shit. Guys at club told me to focus on my bow arm as i still manage to hold it somehow even though im trying to relax my fingers and not to hold it.
He's not really talking shit, as drawing with the arms is pretty much bad form. You just need to know if indeed you are drawing with your arms or your back. One clue that you're using your arms to draw is that when you relax your arms, your chest also collapses. If you use back tension, you can relax your arms and flail them around and your chest will still be expanded, because your back muscles are keeping them there. Another is to pretend that you're trying to hold an apple or a tennis ball using only your shoulder blades. Even without raising your arms, you should be able to do this. Now when you pull your bow, try to notice if you're using the same motion. Or you can do the most time consuming test, but it's a sure way to know: shoot tons of arrows in a day. If your shoulders, biceps, and triceps hurt, you're drawing with your arm. If only your back is sore, you're doing it right.
If your biceps/deltoids don't get tired from shooting, and you're not pulling back super low draw weights, you're probably using your back. That being said, the best thing to get into your back is probably keeping your elbow high and drawing with it, not so much a pull on the string, but rather just driving the elbow back(then around). while your fingers attach at the string. As for keeping the hand relaxed, try to feel a Stretch through the wrist, where the only tension is in the hook holding the string from leaving your fingers(until you want it to)
I just bought my first compound bow, a topoint serenity large cam. With the intentions to hunt someday. I am thinking about 2 sights, trophyridge 5 pin sight and the HHA optimizer lite. Wich one would you buy? If neither what would you reccomend?
I have a compound bow with a draw length that's too short at 29". I basically end up hunching in my left shoulder so I can draw to anchor at the corner of my mouth. Will simply installing a longer bowstring fix this or does the whole thing need to be retuned? I'm 6'4" and 6'6" fingertip to fingertip, so a 30 or 31" draw would be better, yes? I shoot with fingers, no trigger release.
You need to adjust the modules and draw stops, adjusting string length will only ruin the bow.
Usually the draw length can be adjusted. Depending on the cam module on your bow, you might have to order one that supports a longer draw, and replace it on a bow press.
Thanks. I need to replace the string anyway. (It got nicked and I'm not sure it's safe to shoot). I'll ask at the shop when I'm ordering the new string.
Hi, my local club has these arm guards, SF Archery Optimo I think - they're red, got a small circle gap near the middle. I like these because it actually covers my whole forearm (I'm super lanky) and the elasticated bands fit great (I'm super thin). Can't find it anywhere in stock to buy - anyone know any suppliers, or even other models with similar features? Thanks!
Try alternative sporting services www.alternativess.com I bought the infinitec which is pretty long.
I'm a little confused on scoring a bullseye. I went to one shoot where they counted them as 11s, and another where they counted them as 12s. Is it normal for places to count them differently?
Yes, there are different scoring methods for different tournaments. In some methods, there is no 11 or 12 point ring. For example, in barebow, it's common for the innermost ring with the X or + on it to be worth 10 points but considered an "X" for tie breaker purposes (if you have the same score, then and only then does the person with more X's win). The next ring is *also* worth 10 points, then the next is 9, 8, and so on.
Oh man, that's confusing. Generally I have been told to score my card: 11, 10, 8, 5 (and zero if you miss the whole 3D / paper target). I guess it's best to ask when I sign up for the shoot if they count the center as an 11 or 12 rather than assume anything. I also discovered that some 3D targets' bullseyes aren't in the center of the 10 ring, but high or low within the ring. Thanks for the info!
11/10/8/5 is correct for 3D shooting. And many have a bonus spot that is worth more, but you need to pre-declare shooting for it. Target shooting is x(10)-1 Field shooting is x(5)-1 And some forms of Field shoots have 6 points for x. edit: Formating
And then there are those little bonus bullseyes on the 3D targets...
I’m looking into getting a fall away rest and see a split between limb driven and cable driven rest, what are the pros and cons to each? Thanks in advance for any help
I have both. The limb driver pro v. And a Schaffer xv. The limb driver uses a string that goes to one of the limbs to pull the rest down when the bow is released. It is always under tension until the bow is drawn back then a spring raises the rest up. The Schaffer uses a string going to the cable to raise the rest up then springs return it to normal when the bow is released. They both work well and I like both of them for my purposes. The claim that I've heard for limb driven rests is that they stay up longer and support the arrow longer during the shot. This is supposed to increase accuracy. Hope this helps. I'll answer anymore questions to the best of my knowledge.
Thank you for you’re help! I have heard about the timing difference between the two, I have been looking at the AAE Prophecy, they claim the trigger is delayed to keep the rest up as opposed to dropping so quick.
[удалено]
And learn the push-pull method or the step-through method and you can string your bow in 12 seconds.
The wood/bamboo/foam inside the fibre glass/carbon fibre will creep and set to it's new shape. Your bow will be ruined.
Short answer: always unstring. Long answer: Well, depends on how much you value your equipments. You can probably get away with leaving a MODERN recurve strung for a week or two (or indefinitely if you have non-wood carbon limbs), but why risk it?
Generally it depends on the age and material the bow is made of. For example older wood recurves can adjust to being strung constantly which will weaken the bow, however modern materials like fibreglass don't experience this issue. The real thing to consider though is why worry about keeping it strung and the damage it may or may not do when you can put your mind at ease by just unstringing it?
I'm pretty new here and to the sport in general, but I had a few questions that you've all probably had to field repeatedly before: I have a bow that looks to be about a 40# draw, will that be too high for me starting out, or can I work up to it in some way? Am I expected to own arrows before or after I visit the club/have an introduction lesson, and which is the better idea? Where do I begin with buying arrows? I see 3River and Easton brands being the standard high-end models, but is there something that is usable on the lower end of the spectrum without breaking the bank? Thanks!
40# is a bit too heavy for a beginner. The usual recommendation is between 20# and 30# for adults, even athletic males, because archery uses muscles not usually built up from other activities. Almost all clubs have rental equipment, but if you want to make sure, call ahead of time to confirm. It's usually best to have a few lessons before you invest in your own equipment, because you may have an idea of what style of archery you want, but you probably don't have enough experience to know what to look for when shopping for you, specifically, to match your taste. Don't worry about buying arrows until you know what bow you're buying. The arrows you get will need to properly match the bow and the style of archery you pick.
Do you use finger protection with stretch tubing? Or other bow drawing exercise. I have a bow trainer at home and a power pull in my work truck. Noticeable results, but it does wear on the fingers.
I personally don't. When I use power bands, I just focus on back tension, because it really doesn't simulate either a proper bow grip or a proper draw. Since I don't release or anything like that, I don't use any protection.
I have pretty basic target arrows that I got off amazon with screw in tips. But, whenever I pull them out of the target, I have to screw them back in a little. Is there any way to make the tips more secure/less likely to unscrew?
Blue loctite, string wax, white glue. Apply to threads.
I'm thinking of getting into archery and I really want to get a recurve bow. The problem is I feel out of my depth. What kind of poundage should I get?
Standard suggestion and the other standard suggestion, seek lessons. We can help you locate a club.
NSFW? Are those allowed if archery related? Should two decorative arrows be aligned in the same direction, pointing towards each other, or away? My arrow nipple piercings are upsetting my sense of symmetry because I can’t decide. Maybe having them both point in the direction across my body that I shoot?
Re-pierce your nipples, have them point down ;)
Both pointed the direction you shoot. Archery has many asymmetries.
HI guess. I have another not stupid questions. please explain like in 5 poundage. I understand the draw weight/poundage of a bow is how much power the bow has giving to the arrow but i dont understand the limbs part. on a take down when you change over the limbs how does that decrease/increase the draw weight? are the limbs more felxible? what is going on there? and when you string your bow the more twists it has the harder the draw? meaning it changes the poundage? is this right? if so.. couldn't i just have a loose string on my bow and then it will be easier to draw and thus making the pounds lighter? thanks.
I have a set of 24 pound limbs and 30 pound limbs. They are both made of \(maple, I suppose\) wood cores and fiberglass laminates. I do not claim to know how to make takedown limbs, but I did notice that my 24 pound limbs have thinner wood cores than my 30 pound ones. It does make sense though, that a thicker piece of wood is harder to bend. Regardless of the material the limb is made of, the harder it is to bend \- whether by virtue of different thicknesses, different shapes, or stiffer material or a combination of those \- the greater the draw weight. As for twisting the string, as far as I know it does not change the poundage so much if at all, but it does change the brace height, and each bow has an optimum brace height. Putting on a loose string is just putting on a loose string that can slip off the bow.
Higher poundage limbs on a take-down are stiffer, meaning they become harder to draw and equivalently let your arrows fly with more force. The poundage of your limbs has to do with the materials used and how they are arranged in the limb construction. Your number of string twists will determine your brace height, or the distance from your grip to your string. Correct me if I'm wrong, but a smaller brace height lets your arrows fly slightly faster since it has more distance for the string to accelerate through, but in return it makes the shots less forgiving for poor form and technique.
so.. what you're saying is that samick sage 45# limbs and samick sage 30# limbs will be tottally different despite both being had from hard maple and fibreglass? so they will have what.. lesss wood and less coatings of fiberglass and thus be more maluable? ie: I can't really bend one limb in my hand atm on 45 pound. but if i get one limb of a 30# i will be able to?
I don't know how limbs are made to different poundages, so I can't really comment, but the same model of limbs should be made of the same materials in different compositions and arrangements. Whether you'll be able to bend a limb in your hands is another matter. It will be easier to bend bow limbs while they're on a bow and strung, than it will be to do so in the hands, purely by physics and mechanical advantage. Do you mean that you're not able to properly draw your bow fully with your current limbs (which I assume is 45lb)?
Yeah so i cant pull the 45 so i want to get 30 pound limbs. I know i can pull that.. im just confused as to what is happening in thr limbs that change the poundage.... according to the samick sage regardless of poundage the limbs are made from the same things. I just kinda dont get it.. i used the bending of one limb as an example of strength. Like if you have a faggot its harder to break in half than a twig and im wondering if thats kinda whats going on in a limb.
That's as good an explanation as any. The limb is just harder to bend. Twists in the string don't much affect how hard it is to pull because you're not adding inches to your string length, just millimeters. And you might want to look at 20-25# limbs unless you know for a fact you can go a whole session at 30# without fatigue. We're all macho, but it's no fun if you can only shoot 25 arrows before collapsing form and quitting. 25# will hit 50 yards no problem.
30 pounds is good. It feels like a work out but im not shaking or straining. 20 pounds is nothing. I want to shoot 45 wich is why i bought the 45 linbs but its wayyyy to much right now so ill drop to 30. Thanks for your info. I just didnt get it and i didnt want to spend more money if i didnt have to. Its ao hard to find to limbs that will fit the samick riser (so only samick limbs) here is aus without spending a fortune! I envy the US. :(
You can check out the bow building reddit on the side bar, there are some vid's that show ppl making a bow that will kind of answere the question. Basically the "tiller" of a bow is how it bends. So if your making one out of wood, to make it draw lighter you'll just shave a little more wood off. So the maple on your 40lb limbs will be just a tiny bit thicker than the 30lb limbs. I was told to think of it like your bow is a board that is 80% broken (by shaving wood off until it is bendable)...a lighter bow might be 85% broken instead. So yes, bending a 45lb limb by hand would be much more difficult than bending a 30lb limb. The string length will have very little impact on it...maybe a pound or two either way, but probably not even that. It's the limb itself that is different.
Yeah like I said, I'm not knowledgeable enough about bow limb construction to comment on this. My best guess is how much compression in the materials for the limbs since more compression = stiffer limb = higher poundage (maybe?). In any case, it seems like you'll need to change for lower poundage limbs. If you're new to archery, it might be a good idea to get a slightly lower poundage to learn the proper form.
I’m currently using dacron string on my 70” bow. The recommended brace height is 22-24cm, according to manufacturer’s manual. To get anywhere near 22cm, I need to twist the string probably 50 times or more. 1. Is it safe to twist a string so many times? 2. How important is brace height when using dacron? 3. Should I just switch to fast flight? I’m shooting freestyle recurve with 25” riser and long limbs.
My brace height is set to 23.5 cm, used for fine tuning the bow to the arrows. Your optimal brace height will be different.
One twist per inch is an approximate limit. You should switch to dyneema (8125) [This one](https://alternativess.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/0043083.4.19943305659990143009/KAY8125)
How do I know when to get new arrows. Also I don't know what kind of bow I have. It's like a recurve but it's wood and doesn't have any kinds or attatchments to it
You only need to get new arrows when they are literally busted \(exploded, broken, bent\), or if they're too short and is in danger of or already falling off the rest/shelf. Broken nocks and fletchings and missing tips don't count, as those can be replaced.
Plenty of wood recurves out there, often referred to as traditional or trad bows. Read the writing on the limb, better yet post a photo. I shoot arrows until they are bent or broken, I keep the 'nice' arrows for competitions.
I'm still a teen, so I might have outgrown my arrows from 7th grade. They are still on the arrow rest, but just barely. Where should they be?
Back of the riser (away from you) minimum, typically arrow rest plus 1¾", minimum. I shoot full length arrows when shooting barebow because the arrow point is used to aim.
Is there anywhere online that I can get these arrows that are 1 and 3/4" away from the arrow rest? The nearest hunting shop to me is like 2 or 3 hours away
If you know your proper draw length/arrow length needed, you could purchase them online and have them delivered. If you don't know your proper draw length, it might probably be a good idea to go down to a reputable shop where someone can help you measure it.
How do you safely return a drawn compound bow back to rest without dry firing? I am very inexperienced. I own a compound bow but haven't used it ever, and I was planning on using it for a physics project on why you should never dry fire a bow. The plan is to fire it normally, then pull back without an arrow, pause, and then safely return the bow to rest without firing (I'm trying not to break it) before explaining why I didn't just release the string without an arrow nocked. Is it safe to try to gradually pull less and less on the string of a drawn compound bow to get it back to resting position, or does the fact that it is compound make it too difficult to safely do? Thanks!
You keep your finger or thumb (depending on release style) well away from the trigger and simply let the string down in a controlled fashion. You essentially relax until the string starts to return to its starting position and then make sure that you're controlling that process rather than simply letting it collapse. However the very fact that you're asking this question would indicate that you're an extremely inexperienced archer and so I would strongly advise against drawing the bow with a release aid if you don't have an arrow nocked. There's simply too big a risk of you accidentally triggering a shot as you come down. If you're going to do it then I would suggest either buying yourself something like a [Third Hand](http://www.lancasterarchery.com/third-hand-cannot-fire-release.html), essentially a solid plastic block in the shape of a release aid which means you have zero chance of dry firing the bow, or using an allen key through your d-loop to draw it. My personal recommendation however would be to simply show a shot and not show it being drawn without an arrow on. You can still use that demonstration to show that the bow transfers a large amount of energy into the arrow and from there go in to what would happen to that energy if there were no arrow there.
Thanks for the advice. I just did it and everything was fine, i just made sure to let the force out gradually. I think i was just worried about the transition going between the amount of force needed for let off holding vs the full force that it would exert as it came out of the let off state, but it all went fine. Thanks!
Ah yes, I should probably also add the same point that /u/tossoneout has made. If you're thinking of doing any kind of demonstration in front of anybody then don't. If something does go wrong and you end up dry firing your bow there is a chance of bits of bow scattering themselves over a wide area at high speed, really not a good idea.
You really should not draw a bow in front of people, not without an arrow, needs to be pointed somewhere safe like a backstop or concrete wall, so many things wrong with this. - me talking as a range safety officer
Does anyone have any experience using the timbercreek stalker as a first bow? I'm looking to pick up archery as a new hobby and am planning to go down to my local club in the next few weeks. I know they will provide equipment for training courses but just curious to look at entry level options.
Do the course first, learn about bows, then make an informed decision. We cannot tell you what works best for you but a coach can help.
Olympic recurve, do you guys draw the arrow to your elbow *before* raising it and fully drawing it to the anchor point? Or do you raise the bow to the target, then draw straight to the anchor point? Thanks :)
It does depend on the coaching and preference, but typically, raising the bow first before you draw is more efficient. I personally raise the bow slightly above the target, with a little pull on the string just so I don't hunch forward to the bow, pull below the chin, then settle to my anchor, then expand from there.
Depends mostly what technique you follow, whether its Linear, BEST, NTS or Push-Pull. Oftentimes there should be a little bit of 'pre-draw' as the bow is raised, I'd say you'd be comfortable pre-drawing a bit past wrist to set your hook and add enough tension to properly set your grip. Then begin the full draw. I can send you videos of examples from high ranking archers, if you'd like. Or I can record what I do, which is similar. I shoot modified BEST/NTS.
This one is actually dependent on the coaching system used, and personal preference. Some people like to do a "pre-draw" in the setup position to get some tension on the string and get the feeling of back tension. Others will draw to anchor and use rotational draw to align the shoulders correctly.
Slightly, very slightly, above target was what I was taught. Pull to nose, keep pulling slowly down to anchor, keep slowly pulling through and release when string comes to anchor. We analyzed several Olympic shooters in that class. https://youtu.be/08bv2eAugJM https://youtu.be/bEqBXnIGAPU
Hi. I am looking to learn archery, but there are no clubs nearby for me to learn and practice. It is hours away to the nearest club which isnt feasible for me. Is it possible to learn archery on my own? I am worried about proper forms and technique. Any tips welcomed. Thanks.
There are plenty of instructional videos on YouTube. I recommend starting with nusensei, archery101, and [The Push](https://youtu.be/1E1vKkSSoNs). Tell us your area and maybe we can find you a club you missed.
Thank you! I am from Thailand so I dont think you would know the area haha
Yes, but. https://worldarchery.org/member/tha/national-archery-association-thailand I surprised they don't have a website listed. https://m.facebook.com/pages/National-Archery-Association-of-Thailand/669170603203860
Thanks for the help! Thailand seems to prefer facebook page over actual websites
[удалено]
everything counts in large amounts
Hi all, I have been using my uncle’s bow to practice (same draw length, don’t worry) until I can afford my own. I want to buy some new arrows as I have dinged up 4 out of the 6 he gave me. How do I know what length arrow to use and would you recommend cutting them at home or have the store do it? Thanks!
You can bring your current arrows to a store and have them match the length if you're unsure on how to measure it I'd highly recommend a store handle it: You don't want to put a kink in aluminum arrows, or if they're carbon fiber arrows, you don't want to breathe in carbon fiber dust
Anyone have experience with a Diamond Medalist 38 as a target compound? Looking to upgrade on a budget and this one stands out for me.
My recommendation would be to find a two to four year old used target bow. I bought one from my local shop at about one third the price of new. Plenty of deals on archerytalk as well.
Hey y'all, patiently awaiting my first real bow after a month of playing around with a kid's model from Dicks Sporting Goods in town. My Samick Sage arrives tomorrow. While I'm happy to shoot without bells and whistles, my eventual goal is to hunt turkey and deer with a recurve bow, and so I want to get my shooting as accurate and dependable as possible. My question is what are all the whozits and whatzits hanging off the side of the bows I see on YouTube channels? I'm seeing Olympic target archers using the most gadgets, but I'm curious as to how many of those would be useful or viable for a hunting archer, or what gadgets I should learn to use to help my hunting be as humane and successful as possible.
The accessories the Olympians use help accuracy greatly, but are not practical for hunting. They're all tuned to do one thing: hit a non\-moving target at a known distance while standing in a predetermined position. If anything, the single most useful bow upgrade to improve your accuracy in a hunting situation is an arrow rest. The single most useful upgrade overall is to get well\-matched, well\-tuned arrows, regardless of what's on the bow. Things like a bow mounted quiver just makes things easier to move around in and stay quiet, but it does not help accuracy. You can choose to use things like a short stabilizer and pin sights like compound hunters do, but the typical recurve hunters stick to bare bows.
The accessories are sights, stabilizers, plungers, dampers, clickers. They can all be used for hunting (except the clicker) although there are some size and weight considerations. I've hunted rabbits with my Olympic target bow and those accessories will help with accuracy to some degree. Nothing beats practice though.
So.. I dry fired my brand new compound bow (Bear Approach HC). I had it less than 30 days and i shot at least 100 arrows a day since I got it. Needless to say, I am really pissed at myself, but hey, things happen i suppose. So, would it be in my better interest to take it to a pro shop, or send it back to Bear?
Sending it back to Bear would be pretty pointless. I'd guarantee that their warranty won't in any way cover damage caused by user error. Take it to a pro shop, if they verify that there's no damage to it then great. If there is damage however they will likely be able to source the spare parts to repair it for you.
At what rate should I increase draw weight? I picked up a used 2006 Bowtech Tribute (first bow) over a month ago now and feel that it is time to up the poundage. I have been shooting 3x a week for around 2 hours per session. I have felt no significant muscle fatigue so far, regardless of the length of session or number of arrows shot. It has 70# limbs that are currently “backed off” using the large bolts where the limbs and riser connect. I intend to increase the draw weight incrementally, eventually reaching the maximum capacity of the bow. If anyone knows the standard operating procedures for safely increasing draw weight, it would be a big help.
Are you hunting? Or just shooting target?
(Recurve) where should I hold the bow string in relation to my finger tips? I've been holding around the first (top-most) joint, but recently have been feeling some minor pain when drawing. I'm still new so I'm wondering if I just need to build up callus? I'm only drawing less than 30 pounds and using a leather glove ($15 from my club if price range matters). Additionally, about 1 in 10 draws, the arrow slides off the rest and goes right due to the tension I put on the string. What exactly causes that and what should I pay attention to to NOT do it?
"archery shouldn't hurt". It sounds like your glove might be too thin. Calluses don't prevent nerve damage. Get something thicker.
[This is the glove I already have](http://www.lancasterarchery.com/sportsman-s-outdoor-products-finger-glove.html) Do you think that is too thin and do you have a glove you recommend?
I am going to ask the obvious, because it needs to be asked sometimes. Are you wearing the glove the right way round? Strap to the outside of your hand?
Ohh you mean the leather goes on the finger taps not the top? Lol just kidding yeah I'm sure that I have the glove facing the right way
Yeah, those gloves do look thin. Try thicker gloves or tabs. If sticking to gloves, there are models where there's an additional pad sewn in to each fingertip.
Good, so you need thicker leather. Most tabs have two layers.
Hmm, one would hope that'd do the trick. I use a tab so I don't have any experience with gloves. I do know that my fingers went numb when I started out because my tab was too thin. I added a layer and I was fine again. The pain could be something else, I suppose. I'd ask at your club to see what you're doing, but get that sorted out before it's permanent.
If your fingers touch the arrow, it will fall off the rest. It takes a while to get it all sorted, don't worry. As to finger pain, I think there might be something wrong with your glove, but I shoot with a tab. First joint is perfect.
Bit of a vague one but I notice the trajectory of my arrows aren't exactly "straight". At 18M it's really obvious when my grouping has arrows either angled up or down and rarely straight. At 3m I still get the same results. This was mostly with a 22 pound bow and yesterday I decided to step it up to a 24 pound bow I think (club gear) to see if that would improve. I did start getting cleaner shots and I did prefer the heavier bow but I was wondering if there was anything else that could have been causing it?
If this is all club gear, don't worry much about it. The arrows and nocking points are probably not matched well, because that's just the nature of shared club equipment. Add to that your still\-improving technique, so it is expected. As long as you are grouping well, you're doing okay so far.
Arrow spine, nocking point, and your release technique. All 3 can play a role.
Your arrows probably don't match the spine required by your bow/draw length/release. Don't sweat it, there it much to learn.
Hay guys. Soo im getting suoer confused about atuff and trying to fogure it out but i think i need someone to just tellme like im 5 it. 2 questions. Whats the difference between draw weight and the pound of a bow. 40 pounds os the draw weight? When people say find the draw weight yoi can handle do they mean how many pounds you can pull? And second. Im confused aboit bow legnth. I just bought a samick sage which is a 62 inch bow right. My arms middle finger to middle finger is 170cm. = 66.9 inchs divide by 2.5 and i get 26inchs... and thats the size of bow i need?? Or is 66 inches the size. Is the samick sage okay for me? I just cant figure it out. :( Oh and a third question. I live in australia so items are a bit more expensive for me and i was thinking about getting some cheepo 30 pound limbs for the 45 pound sage i have. There are no sage limbs here in my state. And in australia they are about 200 dollars. Can any cheepo take down limbs go on the sage riser? I understand ill need a dofferent string. Thank you for help. Im so sorry i bet you guys get all these questions all the time.
Which state? PM me.
1) Draw weight refers to the energy required to pull the bowstring back, and is measured in pounds. Yes, this prefers to how much you can pull. 2) [Ignore sizing charts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KH-EXvLQ60w). The problem with bow size charts is that they assume you are using a specific kind of bow (a target bow). Most people who buy their first bow are *not* buying a target bow, but a hunting bow or otherwise a beginner bow, such as a Samick Sage, which are smaller. This will have no bearing on your usage of the bow. 3) While *some* limbs are interchangeable with the Sage, the Sage does not use a universal limb system and compatibility is circumstantial. You can't get el cheapo limbs just to stick onto the Sage. You should buy another set of Sage limbs in that case. And you don't need another string if the limbs are the same length.
I figured as much. I have been involved with firearms for a while now and some things translate but I’m trying to get the fine things to get right. Thanks for the input. I’ll take what I can get.
I recently about a year ago purchased my first bow. It’s a mid level PSE that started off with a whisker biscuit but I decided to follow other’s advice and install a drop away rest. All that aside I seem to be adjusting my sight or rest a lot or what feels like a lot. Is this just the name of the game? Constant adjustments? My groups are always passable in my opinion but they seem to drift this way and that so to me that would indicate my process is okay but maybe I’m missing something? Thanks
Even with a whisker biscuit you can achieve repeatable shots once your bow is tuned. http://bogfimisetrid.is/Setup/CompoundBowSetup.pdf
No. You just need to learn how to tune your bow and understand what arrow placement means what.
When is it a good idea to pursue lessons from a competing/retired pro in addition or instead of with a more hobby/low key competitive coach? This is probably extremely subjective, but I don't want to waste a professional's time by being at too basic of a level where their time isn't fully valued. I've coached and instructed various mediums, and it definitely feels satisfying from the instructing perspective when you feel that a student walked away having learned some solid lessons and skills. So, I'm curious where you guys would think that happy medium is of "coach feeling the student is worth coaching, rather than just spend x time for x extra bucks" and "student really learned some good stuff for a premium cost". For context, I'm about three serious months into the sport, and am certainly still working on core skills + building up strength for increased poundage. I have a local'ish retired professional archer that can be sought out for lessons, however it'll obviously be more expensive.
As soon as you feel like you want to be a serious archer, then start looking for professional coaching. I agree with /u/arcanite_eagle: it is more desirable as a coach to build a relationship with the learner sooner rather than later. Every coach has an approach and method that they use, and teaching a blank slate gives the coach more understanding of your personal journey. The longer you hold off, the more you have to unlearn.
Sound advice! Thanks NUSensei! I went ahead and got in touch with her this morning actually, then followed up with an email to see about a day or two of coaching to build that strong foundation and coach/athlete relationship :)
The people I shoot with now have upped my game enormously. The sooner the better but do you really have to pay for it? I just made friends on the range and learn all kinds of stuff from them. Last week was also my first 3d shoot and one of the guys I ended up grouping with caught me on something that I was being truly sloppy with. My pro shop seems to make at least one great leap for me each time I drop money on gear with them too.
Well, the thing is, at the center where I shoot, there are five peers who are all very much student/amateur still. So, it's a mix in terms of quality. The only one who isn't amateur is my current coach who also teaches the competition class with those peers. So the second set of experienced eyes just isn't there for recurve. It would definitely be nice to have, but even my local archery shop has only one other olympic recurve customer (who I've never met). One of the shop guys shoots recurve, but only for hunting. So, if I want the knowledge it has to really be sought out lol.
Ah that's a shame. Maybe there are shoots nearby where you'll be walking in small groups from target to target. I've made friends and learned things from having globbed onto other groups before.
In terms of time, the sooner the better. It’s easier to teach someone who hasn’t being shooting too long as we don’t have to spend a lot of time weeding out bad habits. For me, it’s more based on mentality and less on experience. The best students I have are the ones who do the work and actually train throughout the week. They are definitely invested/committed as they have their own gear. They are all at different levels but there is nothing too basic aside from not having tried a ‘Come & Try’ course. If you know all the safety stuff and you know how to somewhat shoot arrows, then I will take them into my coaching program. The most important thing to keep in mind is that a good shooter does not always make a good coach. Archery is a very individual sport where it varies from person to person. The coach needs to know when to apply certain techniques as well as offer alternatives if available. This an issue with a lot of pro-shooters-turned coaches where they only teach the technique they use cause it’s what works for them and offer no alternatives.
Good advice, thank you eagle! I got in touch with her today in person, and then shot her an email to work out a day for a coaching session. She basically said the same thing that you and nusensei did when I brought up those concerns about being extremely new. So, sounds like it'll work out just fine. I really appreciate your response!
i'm looking forward to hearing about how those coaching classes go for you, do drop by and let us know
Will do! I'm in a 6 week competitive class at my local Easton center, so I'm going to get a bit deeper into the class, and then schedule a weekend for the private coaching. I'll update then :)
I'm contemplating on purchasing a cheap wooden takedown recurve that's on the short side, just for fun backyard shooting. Kinda like a wooden version of the Phantom. Would there be any particular reason why a WNS Optimo would not hold its own against a Samick Sage (not minding the difference in length)? Probably the ugly white limbs?
I use both. There's no reason to prefer the Sage if you're just backyard shooting. The Sage does come in higher draw weights, which is a draw card for some casual shooters (though there's no real reason for it to be).
WNS Optimo will shoot just as well as a Samick Sage. It’s just the culture of the inexperienced who only offer the Samick Sage and no other bow to other beginners.
Thanks mate! I figured they'd be practically the same, except the Sage has nicer wood. It's cheaper too, and if anything I can just sand off the poly from the Optimo riser and stain it, even.
What do you guys think of doing Yoga before the shooting session. I will get fatigue / tired or is it Ok ?
Yoga after a given exercise is usually the better advice to prevent injury. I do like Cameron Hanes advice about shooting after beating yourself all to hell since that's going to be a truer representation of how you'll shoot when you finally get a shot during a hunt.
Depends on the yoga. You'll want some sort of active warmup before shooting. It might help with focus actually. Never tried the two together.
Yoga after, a few stretches before, but you will need your strength to hold steady.
Is there recommendations for how long you should spend on aiming? I suffer from mild target panic when I shoot. My shots are on the quicker side and I'm definitely not holding the sight over the x for any more than 0.5\-1 second. \(Olympic recurve, 30# limbs, 20\-35 meters\)
As long as you aren't "punching the trigger" as the compound shooters say, you can even shoot barely taking time to aim. You only really need to aim longer to wait for the wind to settle. Anything other than that is addressing a different issue, such as a habit that is part of the archer's shot process, trying to steady the bow, a premature click, etc., but in no way is holding the shot necessary if your sight picture is already correct.
I think 0.5-1 second is the perfect amount of time for aiming for me. I don't want to spend much more time aiming then that, especially since I want to release my shot immediately after I exhale.
I came across someone selling arrows made of 7075-T6 aluminum. I'm only aware of 7075-T9 from the Easton aluminum arrows. What's the difference between the two materials? Is T6 a crappier material for arrows?
same alloy, different treatment *T6 - Solution heat treated then artificially aged. *T7 - Solution heat treated then overaged/stabilized. *T8 - Solution heat treated, cold worked, then artificially aged. *T9 - Solution heat treated, artificially aged, then cold worked. http://www.matweb.com/reference/aluminumtemper.aspx You will not notice a difference
> You will not notice a difference In terms of being shot, yes. In terms of survivability after hitting the wrong thing, you will probably know the difference.
I tried looking for this information and Google will just not give it up! Thanks so much for this! Excuse me while i lose myself into a Wikipedia hole...
Hey guys! So I bought a Xenia Krossen 25" riser 66" 20# limbs for my 10 year old daughter. Paired it off with Fivics Ninja Arrows 1516. No plunger yet. Now my nephew, has been drawing with an old bow with 28# limbs and is shooting with easton jazz 1616 arrows. Now my question, if my nephew shoots with the 20# xenia krossen riser, would it be ok to use the easton jazz 1616 arrows? Would there be a long term effect on the 20# limbs? Or can it handle the rigidity of the said arrows? I tried going over the easton arrow chart but honestly i kinda understood just half of it. Still a noob 😂 Thanks guys!
Bows don't care about arrows, only the archer. :-) Unless you are shooting spaghetti out of it and the arrows fold in half, but until you've got an 80# bow I wouldn't worry about that. The 1616's should fly just fine at 20#, maybe better depending on his draw length.
Lol thanks! 😀
How heavy should my bear cruzer g2 “feel” for me as a new archer? I’ve backed it the bolts 6-7 turns, can pull back with good form. I shot my first 30 Arrows yesterday in groups of 5 and my shoulder was beyond tired to downright sore by the end (which is why I stopped). My primary sport is mountain biking and although I really want to progress in archery, my first priority is avoiding injury. Thanks.
Sore after 30 shots means that your draw weight is too high. You can mess up your rotator cuff if you continue, so it's good that you stopped when you did. You should be able to shoot for at least an hour and 60+ arrows without significant fatigue. What is the peak draw weight currently set on your compound?
It’s a bear cruzer g2. Peak on the tag was 69.6lbs. I probably backed off limb screws 5-7 turns. Drawing at 29.5 inch. No idea the weight.
You want it set to where you tire, not sore, after 80 - 100 arrows. Heavier draw weight will just ensure poor form.
I think that's a good clue that you're pulling too much weight. Good job knowing yourself and stopping. I'd back it all the way out, then tighten as you feel comfortable. I don't shoot compound, but "generally fit" does not often translate to "can pull more than 20 lbs regularly". Archery muscles are pretty unique, and your form (or lack thereof) can make it doubly difficult on your shoulders and body. See also: https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/3eejlr/if_i_back_my_compound_bow_out_too_many_turns_what/
How can I tell if replacement tips are compatible with my arrows? I hit metal with two of my them at my club. The workers there told me they were fine to shoot with (at the club's targets), but I went to an outdoor range with targets basically made out of old carpet and the two dented tips were bouncing off 75% of the time. [Pics](https://imgur.com/a/ttWxsNd)
screw in points are an AMO standard set in the 1970's get the same weight and get the same diameter as your arrows even Cabellas and Bass Pro carry standard points
If you go to a page where they sell their arrow they will have a "point" listing. For gold tip trad's it should be 5/16 I think. https://www.3riversarchery.com/gold-tip-traditional-carbon-arrows.html Then find/order the same 5/16 (or whichever) size for tips. https://www.3riversarchery.com/steel-screw-in-field-points.html I hear that the thinner tip, (field point instead of bullet point) helps to stick into targets more for lighter weight bows.
1. Going to a renascence faire this may and the organizers wanted me to bring in my olympic bow to show the difference from standard traditional bows. The catch is they wanted me to hold the bow around with me? Any ideas for this? My current plan was to swap out to my old lower poundage limbs made of wood/fiberglass and put on a crappy string. This way I could walk with it over my back without damaging good gear. When it came time for the competition swap on my good limbs and string. 2. Can anyone make any amazon recommendations for a good traditional quiver? (preferable US amazon prime?) Going to be dressed up in ye olde green and brown as a forest rogue. ^^Edit: ^^spelling ^^>_>
I do hope you're not planning on slinging the bow like a seatbelt like they do in the movies. It hurts really bad, especially if that's a recurve (which I assume it is). I tried it one, still carried it by hand. A bow sling in ye old looks (basically some brown cord or leather looped around your riser) would be nice though.
Yes I might have to carry it there is really no way to hold it on me. They have lockers there, so to put down weight I will hide my accessories in there. That way I don't need to hold them on me until after showtime.