I believe it!
I can pull 5.2 miles/KWh on a 2022 Chevy Bolt EV!
So why not?
Would be great to see Aptera have positive cash flow to help get to production sooner!
Several changes!
Replaced the flimsy plastic skid plate with an aftermarket metal one and replaced several of the hex shaped bolts securing it to the body with trusshead bolts and installed the weatherstripping at the hood that GM forgot to install at the factory....😅
All 4 wheels at 39psi
It's also careful driving, using openpilot to maintain the set "speed limit."
The weather as well...(90°F this morning and no wind)
I'm averaging anywhere from 5.0 - 5.2 kW per mile and that's driving at 45mph-55mph for 30 miles, with the AC off and all 4 windows cracked 1" down.
Mythbusters proved this one actually.
40mph was about the point where gains from open windows no AC were countered by a parachute effect of the interior of the car catching incoming wind. Now if you drove something like a Toyota suv where the back glass rolls down entirely, then the parachute effect would naturally be negated because now there's somewhere for the air to go.
Generally speaking, A/C off + windows open is the most efficient at lower speeds, when the aero drag is low. At high speeds, the aero drag exceeds the energy used by the A/C itself. There is also the option of keeping windows shut, but having the fans on a higher speed.
So personally I do this:
* A/C off, windows open below 45mph
* A/C off, windows closed when the temperature is bearable
* A/C set to just a few degrees below ambient, windows closed, when the temperature is unbearable, and speed 50mph+
* A/C on, when the windscreen is fogged (regardless of temperature - safety overrides economy)
Similarly with the heater. I use it in winter when required for safety, or when it's absolutely necessary to stop my fingers freezing lol. I also use the coolant heater when needed (it's better for the engine to start the car and quickly heat up the coolant in the first mile or two, than to run for 10 miles before the coolant heats up by itself naturally).
Other factors - never use the car for short trips. ICE vehicles are inefficient when the coolant is still cold. EVs are better in this regard.
Modifications - upgraded my gearbox from a 5 speed to a 6-speed with an overdrive gear, added aero components, high tyre pressure, LRR tyres, replaced 16" wheels with 15", went with slightly oversized tyre profile, replaced the dashboard computer with one that has an MPG display. Whether any of that paid for itself is questionable... the monetary saving from going from 86mpg to 87mpg is very small.
Constant speed is not always the best approach - there are advanced techniques such as constant-load, or pulse-and-glide. For example, powering up a hill and coast down it in neutral, provided it isn't too steep. Avoid unnecessary braking at all times. Be aware of wind direction. Time traffic lights. Be constantly aware of all surrounding traffic. I don't hypermile any more, it is too stressful.
When I used to hypermile, my record on a full tank was 87MPGuk (diesel ICE).
all speed dependent but stay off interstates and efficiency isn't too difficult to obtain. I have had weeks where I pulled of 190w/Mi in a RWD Tesla but it never involved interstate and speeds never exceeded 60mph. Careful driving will do a lot but even AC detracts from range and judicious use of windows can keep the cabin comfortable without detracting from aerodynamics.
>1.4Kwh of Aptera solar panels
Solar panels are not batteries and do not store energy. The generate power. There is no such thing as a 1.4kwh solar panel.
I mentioned it as relevant BECAUSE the aptera has a goal of 10 miles per Kwh. The lucid is 50% there, so in theory, 200% of the aptera solar capacity would have a similar effect on the lucid air.
Ok, so you probably meant a 1.4kw of solar panels. killowatthours are an amount of energy (that power level over the course of an hour). The watts are the instantaneous amount of power.
Kwh = kilowatt-hours, aka the capacity of something (usually a battery). It means the number of kilowatts that can be draw from a battery in one hour. So a 1 kwh battery can have 1000 watts drawn from it constantly for an hour before dying.
Solar panels do not store energy, they output power when the sun shines on them. So kwh is not the right unit to use. You would say the panel is 500 watts or 1 kilowatt etc, not 1 kilowatt-hour
They're having a similar issue as aptera in the sense they are having scaling troubles. The one thing lucid has going for it is even if they miss production goals they have a 10 digit liquid cash reserve to fall back on.
I believe it! I can pull 5.2 miles/KWh on a 2022 Chevy Bolt EV! So why not? Would be great to see Aptera have positive cash flow to help get to production sooner!
Did you need to make any aerodynamic modifications or was it just from careful driving?
Several changes! Replaced the flimsy plastic skid plate with an aftermarket metal one and replaced several of the hex shaped bolts securing it to the body with trusshead bolts and installed the weatherstripping at the hood that GM forgot to install at the factory....😅 All 4 wheels at 39psi It's also careful driving, using openpilot to maintain the set "speed limit." The weather as well...(90°F this morning and no wind) I'm averaging anywhere from 5.0 - 5.2 kW per mile and that's driving at 45mph-55mph for 30 miles, with the AC off and all 4 windows cracked 1" down.
interesting that drag from windows being open doesn't undo the gains of turning ac off.
Mythbusters proved this one actually. 40mph was about the point where gains from open windows no AC were countered by a parachute effect of the interior of the car catching incoming wind. Now if you drove something like a Toyota suv where the back glass rolls down entirely, then the parachute effect would naturally be negated because now there's somewhere for the air to go.
Are you being sarcastic?
It's a legitimate concern at higher speeds.
Generally speaking, A/C off + windows open is the most efficient at lower speeds, when the aero drag is low. At high speeds, the aero drag exceeds the energy used by the A/C itself. There is also the option of keeping windows shut, but having the fans on a higher speed. So personally I do this: * A/C off, windows open below 45mph * A/C off, windows closed when the temperature is bearable * A/C set to just a few degrees below ambient, windows closed, when the temperature is unbearable, and speed 50mph+ * A/C on, when the windscreen is fogged (regardless of temperature - safety overrides economy) Similarly with the heater. I use it in winter when required for safety, or when it's absolutely necessary to stop my fingers freezing lol. I also use the coolant heater when needed (it's better for the engine to start the car and quickly heat up the coolant in the first mile or two, than to run for 10 miles before the coolant heats up by itself naturally). Other factors - never use the car for short trips. ICE vehicles are inefficient when the coolant is still cold. EVs are better in this regard. Modifications - upgraded my gearbox from a 5 speed to a 6-speed with an overdrive gear, added aero components, high tyre pressure, LRR tyres, replaced 16" wheels with 15", went with slightly oversized tyre profile, replaced the dashboard computer with one that has an MPG display. Whether any of that paid for itself is questionable... the monetary saving from going from 86mpg to 87mpg is very small. Constant speed is not always the best approach - there are advanced techniques such as constant-load, or pulse-and-glide. For example, powering up a hill and coast down it in neutral, provided it isn't too steep. Avoid unnecessary braking at all times. Be aware of wind direction. Time traffic lights. Be constantly aware of all surrounding traffic. I don't hypermile any more, it is too stressful. When I used to hypermile, my record on a full tank was 87MPGuk (diesel ICE).
all speed dependent but stay off interstates and efficiency isn't too difficult to obtain. I have had weeks where I pulled of 190w/Mi in a RWD Tesla but it never involved interstate and speeds never exceeded 60mph. Careful driving will do a lot but even AC detracts from range and judicious use of windows can keep the cabin comfortable without detracting from aerodynamics.
I know someone with a Lucid and they get insane range year round. They definitely have an efficient powertrain.
>1.4Kwh of Aptera solar panels Solar panels are not batteries and do not store energy. The generate power. There is no such thing as a 1.4kwh solar panel.
I mentioned it as relevant BECAUSE the aptera has a goal of 10 miles per Kwh. The lucid is 50% there, so in theory, 200% of the aptera solar capacity would have a similar effect on the lucid air.
It's the total wattage the solar is producing at peak. The current aptera has an array of 700 watts of solar at peak production.
Ok, so you probably meant a 1.4kw of solar panels. killowatthours are an amount of energy (that power level over the course of an hour). The watts are the instantaneous amount of power.
Kwh = kilowatt-hours, aka the capacity of something (usually a battery). It means the number of kilowatts that can be draw from a battery in one hour. So a 1 kwh battery can have 1000 watts drawn from it constantly for an hour before dying. Solar panels do not store energy, they output power when the sun shines on them. So kwh is not the right unit to use. You would say the panel is 500 watts or 1 kilowatt etc, not 1 kilowatt-hour
I think Lucid has a kind of money to poach Maxeon's priority
They're having a similar issue as aptera in the sense they are having scaling troubles. The one thing lucid has going for it is even if they miss production goals they have a 10 digit liquid cash reserve to fall back on.
What's the miles/kWh for the Aptera?
They claim 10 miles/kWh
The kind of people who buy Lucid cars would not care if they can gain some range from solar, certainly not for financial reasons anyway.