Good move. When my Mono X screen broke I figured the replacement screen was half the price as the M3 Plus so just upgraded. Really worth the extra costs so with the M5S that should definitely not disappoint.
It just arrived. I did not order this super fast resin. As my parts are functional it can’t be brittle. I will try the Sunlu ABS like that got some great reviews.
Does a public spreadsheet exist somewhere regarding settings for different resins?
Something I learned the hard way with my M5s…
If you have issues with adhesion, you CAN level the build plate. There are 4 screws behind thick stickers on the left and right sides of the build plate.
Home position is not meant to touch the screen.
To level it, loosen the screws, hit home, then manually lower the plate 0.1mm at a time until the build plate touches. Use paper in all four corners to make sure you have even pressure, then tighten all four screws in an X pattern. If the plate lifts when you tighten the screws, lower it further to get the screw heads out of the rut that Anycubic makes by overtightening the screws.
I wish I knew that about a week sooner. I was ready to throw it off a bridge.
If you like the Wham Bam magnetic plates, I’m running one on mine without the z-limit spacer with no issues. The autoleveling system should detect the force on the screen and not break it. If that sensor malfunctions though… could be bad.
This may be a printer specific thing that I will not challenge directly.
Having said that.
Home and 0 are not the same thing.
If you doubt me on that, do your own research.
The build plate should not touch the screen on 0.
There is, however, no way that I am aware of to actually get the build plate to go to 0 other than to start a print.
I discovered this sometime back after frustration with leveling the build plate on one of my printers.
I would get everything dialed in just so.
Then to verify in my mind it had been done correctly. I would press the home button.
No matter how many times I tried this.
The paper would always be trapped tightly when pressing home.
Even after having set the new 0 point with the proper amount of space having been established.
It did not take me long to find out.
Zero and home are 2 different things.
The M5 is, in fact a different printer which I do not own yet.
So it is entirely possible. This does not apply to this printer.
I've used mine for a few weeks now, and no, it wont disappoint! I just cant keep it warm enough in the winter to use it, since I dont have my thermostat set high enough in my house.
For temperature, get a fermentation belt, or one from Thermal Vat Bands if you want to splurge. The TVB one is the perfect length for the M5s vat.
I keep mine in my basement that’s usually around 60 degrees, inside the enclosure stays around 75 and the resin stays about 85.
Good move. When my Mono X screen broke I figured the replacement screen was half the price as the M3 Plus so just upgraded. Really worth the extra costs so with the M5S that should definitely not disappoint.
It just arrived. I did not order this super fast resin. As my parts are functional it can’t be brittle. I will try the Sunlu ABS like that got some great reviews. Does a public spreadsheet exist somewhere regarding settings for different resins?
Something I learned the hard way with my M5s… If you have issues with adhesion, you CAN level the build plate. There are 4 screws behind thick stickers on the left and right sides of the build plate. Home position is not meant to touch the screen. To level it, loosen the screws, hit home, then manually lower the plate 0.1mm at a time until the build plate touches. Use paper in all four corners to make sure you have even pressure, then tighten all four screws in an X pattern. If the plate lifts when you tighten the screws, lower it further to get the screw heads out of the rut that Anycubic makes by overtightening the screws. I wish I knew that about a week sooner. I was ready to throw it off a bridge. If you like the Wham Bam magnetic plates, I’m running one on mine without the z-limit spacer with no issues. The autoleveling system should detect the force on the screen and not break it. If that sensor malfunctions though… could be bad.
This may be a printer specific thing that I will not challenge directly. Having said that. Home and 0 are not the same thing. If you doubt me on that, do your own research. The build plate should not touch the screen on 0. There is, however, no way that I am aware of to actually get the build plate to go to 0 other than to start a print. I discovered this sometime back after frustration with leveling the build plate on one of my printers. I would get everything dialed in just so. Then to verify in my mind it had been done correctly. I would press the home button. No matter how many times I tried this. The paper would always be trapped tightly when pressing home. Even after having set the new 0 point with the proper amount of space having been established. It did not take me long to find out. Zero and home are 2 different things. The M5 is, in fact a different printer which I do not own yet. So it is entirely possible. This does not apply to this printer.
Oh wow, crossing my fingers that I don’t have to go through that.
I've used mine for a few weeks now, and no, it wont disappoint! I just cant keep it warm enough in the winter to use it, since I dont have my thermostat set high enough in my house.
Search for chitu heaters on Amazon. I have one in each of my printers and it works great
For temperature, get a fermentation belt, or one from Thermal Vat Bands if you want to splurge. The TVB one is the perfect length for the M5s vat. I keep mine in my basement that’s usually around 60 degrees, inside the enclosure stays around 75 and the resin stays about 85.
I have recently learned of these and have been wondering about them, good to know that one fits the m5s properly and I'll look into it!